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[Martin (Admin)]

[warspite]

Avoiding distractions having desires ?????

[Martin (Admin)]

 
Matchbox / Revell Corvette - Part 1 ? - Can someone do a proof check please ....
  NB: Good enough or do I need to reshoot this?



https://youtu.be/SdaWBnwmDMo
!
 

 
 

[SailorGreg]

I guess you already realise that some shots are partially out of frame, but I wouldn't bother to reshoot.  Once you get to the actual build, then it matters a bit more that we can see what you are up to.  For this one, leave it as is.  Your message is clear (already started, poor quality build, all a bit messy, but mostly still in good condition) so move on to the intersting bits!

Greg

[Martin (Admin)]

 Thanks for that  Greg 

[warspite]

Not watched but the phrase - poor quality build, what our unfinishing unsung hero martin !!! 

[SteamboatPhil]

So what happened to paint before assembly, stick part one to part 2, stick parts to number 3 admire your finished model 

[warspite]

in martins case - thats another part finished model done - WHAT 

[Backerther]

Hi Martin,
Judging from the video, I think you got a very well partially built kit this time and do think it's worth completing to the end.!
I also enjoyed a similar kit to build and sail as seen below.
She is an excellent model ship for RC operation.!!!


https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,67483.0.html

[Martin (Admin)]

Started scraping the old glue off this week.... what a tedious job that is!!!

 
Here we go again .... Recommendations for Matchbox Corvette hull joining glue / adhesive / epoxy?

[Bunkerbarge]

The kit is polystyrene so any cement that dissolves the surface of the polystyrene surface and allows the two sides to fuse together is best.  Consequently any polystyrene solvent glue would do the job such as Revel Contacta, Plastic Magic or Tamiya or Humbrol liquid cement.  The trouble with such a big joint is that liquid cement evaporates very quickly so the start of the joint will have dried out before you put the two halves together.


If I was doing it I would lay a generous bead of good old thick polystyrene cement along the joint, put the two halves together with masking tape and leave it at least 24 hrs.  Then glue flat scraps of polystyrene (Plasticard) along the inside of the joint with more generous amounts of polystyrene cement.  Give it a few days to completely harden then fill it with water and sit it on its stand for an hour or so with some kitchen roll beneath it.  I don't think for a minute that you will have a leak if you put a good bead of glue along the joint.


The trouble with all epoxy type glues is that they do not dissolve the surface of the plastic.  They grab extremely well but they still only sit on the surface.  The best joint is one where the surface is dissolved and fused completely into a totally homogeneous joint.

[Colin Bishop]

Fully agree with BB, especially re bridging the inside of the joint with plasticard which adds a bit of extra strength as well.

Colin

[warspite]

It's what I did in 1982, as far as I know she still is leakproof (it's been year since she was on water), I know last time I checked, the area around the propshaft is still soft from using epoxy (it's the area just above the prop as it heads up to the stern), I used the clear plastic with copious amount of plastic cement to create a connection between both sides of the front and back.

[Backerther]

In my case, I used CA(low viscosity) and epoxy for assemblies of hull.
In the first place, I used CA along the joints and a few hours later applied epoxy to add an extra strength for RC operation.
This epoxy may have reinforced the hull and made the hull stiffer.
Beforehand, intensive washing of the hull must be done to eliminate the oily ingredient on the surface of the hull by which much better bond is expected.   Seeing is believing and I never tell a lie about the combination of CA and epoxy.!!!
But poor CA and epoxy will invite a poor result.

[warspite]

will have to get access to mine and show you what I did 

[Martin (Admin)]

Yes, agree with good old Polystyrene cement..... be generous but not too generous!

 Just thought there might be a modern polystyrene epoxy or builder's adhesive around these days .......

 Quite like the idea of Slow Zap .... but not sure if I'm that brave!

[warspite]

Heres mine, a picture of that 'soft' area just above the prop shaft (the rudder is plasticard stuck to a brass off the shelf)
You cannot see the joint as in the past I seemed to have painted the inside.

[Martin (Admin)]

Cleaning up these hull segments is a slow, messy & tedious job .... No surprise there then!

[Circlip]

Bit of a giveaway in the name, POLYSTYRENE CEMENT 


 Regards   Ian.

[Colin Bishop]

Using polystyrene cement which literally welds the surfaces together is a no brainer for plastic models. Any other adhesive cannot match it by definition. Cyano and Epoxy just don't come close as BB points out. Just basic chemistry really. Anything else is just sticking plaster.

Colin

[KitS]

With all of my plastic modelling, not just boats, but railway models and aeroplane kits too, I lay on a bead of Revell Contacta, easy to do with their needle like applicator, put the parts together and then run over the joint with a brushful, or brushesful in the plural, of a suitable liquid cement, Humbrol or De Luxe. That re-energises the Contacta if it's dried out a little and makes a good joint. Clamping the parts together with tape, or sash clamps in the case of a Flower Class corvette (!), helps a lot.

[Martin (Admin)]

I would to prefer to use cement as opposed to liquid, but ....

1. they are big complex joints

2. if I wick in liquid you don't actually know where it's actually holding, ( plus, high chance of 'run-out' thus marring the surfaces )

3. cement goes 'off' really quickly, so very little working time, ( plus, high chance of 'squeeze-out' t, again  blemishing the surface )
 
 

[Bunkerbarge]

You want just a little bit of "Squeeze out".  That way you know the joint is completely closed and sealed and does not need any messing around with filler afterwards.  Just ensure you give the glue plenty of time to thoroughly harden, i.e. a few days, before smoothing it down. Then you should have an invisible joint for minimum effort.  Poly cement will not dry out in the time you apply it to the corvette hull as long as you set your stall out and have everything to hand.  Have the masking tape ready cut into pieces on the edge of the workbench and any clamps in front of you.  It is always worth doing a dry run first so you know exactly what you are going to need during the process and exactly where you want to put clamps and tape.  Then, when you apply the glue, there are no surprises and no delays while you try to find something you need.  I would also do either side, let them thoroughly harden for a few days, clean up the midships joints and then you can ensure that the joining of the port and starboard sides can have a perfectly matching joint because you can clean up either side as a single piece.


I also notice that you have lost the locating lugs in the dismantling process so joining the two sides won't be quite as controlled.  To help with this glue some small tabs of scrap plasticard on the inside face of one of the sides a day or so before joining the two halves so that they overhang the joint.  These tabs will then locate the two parts when they are put together making aligning everything a lot easier.


Good old cement in a tube is probably the slowest polystyrene glue to set so will give you the best playing time.

[Martin (Admin)]

 Got quite a few hours in today, clean up nearly complete!
 
 A few areas still to do, like the glue edges. I want all the Matt flat, to give the poly cement the best possible chance to grab.

 I think I can see why the kit was completed, the "glue" used, must have stated to come apart very early on as some just peeled
 right off with very little effort. Also some sprue edges were not trimmed at all, the glue surfaces not 'keyed' at all & looks like
 glass fibre reinforcement matting didn't take at all, leaving this mess to clean up, leaving him pondering what to do next
 and how to clean up the mess .... or leave it to another time ..... or someone else to clean up!

 



         

         

[Martin (Admin)]

Totally agree BB, et al!   

 ... forgot just how big this thing is!