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[Backerther]

Like real block-style construction of the hull, assembly has come to the stern block at last at which I checked sufficiently how to install the rudder linkage in this portion.
The next job is to build into the whole hull assembly . ♪～♩～♬～

[Backerther]

At last, whole hull sections were completely jointed without difficulty.  ♩～♬～♪～　So roomy inside the hull.！！
A Mabuchi 540RS motor looks so tiny in the hull bottom.
Oh,don't say " not challenging". 3D printed kit may be such and such, and helpful for a lazy old man like me.
A Quick build RC model like this 3D has been earning generally a good reputation for easiness and time-saving in mainly RC planes. But in recent days,3D models appear rapidly to expand its territory in model boats in the form of kit and various kinds of
parts and components with various scales....What is better, they are precisely built up in the models....
I wonder how the skilled and experienced RC modellers in the conventional /traditional style of model makings will think of..??

[Backerther]

The building work is going onto the bridge ass'y.   One of the easiest work in the easiest model boat building I have ever experienced.   The rest of the time could be distributed this day to swimming at my local gymnasium for 2 hours with my old wife.
 
The bridge ass'y was soooooo easy to build and I could do it precisely as per the instruction manual just like a Tamiya pla-model.   CA did a very good job for jointing them which did not require the rigidness in this assembly.

[Backerther]

After coming home from swimming pool where I spent for 2 hours energetically, I re-started building the boat to see how it looks with the bridge ass'y on the upper deck........................????   I couldn't come to love the profile........Toooo massive and something shapeless for my eyes though I had known it previously, vaguely and conceptionally...
But actual profile sitting in front of me....not shapely in exchange for roomy inside of the hull...???

[Backerther]

In order to get the hull looked more shapely, I just cut out the wave-shield like frame partially of the portside foredeck as seen in the pics below. I personally think it better by the elimination of the part since the foredeck turns out to be sharp and shapely than starboard still left unchanged.
Another significance to eliminate the part is intended to give a scheduled dual-purpose gun a required firing angle against the air and the surface targets.

Well then, let's go to the starboard as well.!!!!

[derekwarner]

Certainly alters    the profile Kiyo,........[which I personally did not dislike], but it will also marginally reduce 'sail area' or 'windage effect' 


Have you decided on the "Bushmaster" cannon?....that would be prototypical as used by US Allied Forces.....[IJN included?]


Derek

[Backerther]

Derek,
Our Maritime Safety Agency( so-called Coast Guard) is adopting Bushmaster Mk44 in some patrol boats.
And my current building patrol boat is what I call "Super- Guardian class (Austal 40) patrol boat" which new type of boat is intended to be faster in its cruising speed and a more powerful armament quite different from its 1/1 counterpart.
As for the model armament, it's a bit difficult to find the on-board Bushmaster chain gun currently at around 1/35-1/38 at reasonable price. The building budget for this boat is extremely limited by which I have to find a budget-friendly gun to be set aboard the foredeck neatly and realistically..  But I found it already which might be shown here later at around early October...

And cruising speed is also so important for me to realise since the new boat is destined to serve in a vast area of our lake which has been posted frequently here in this forum. Unless the speed is accomplished, the time required to go around the "patrolling area"
will be sooo long and irritating for me to operate on the shore.
This vastness like the Pacific Ocean? has always obliged me to build a bit fast model boats thus far...
Yes, they are really radio-controlled from the distant place.!

Kiyo

[Backerther]

Well then, back to the mainstream of this building process, both sides of wave shields at the foredeck were just trimmed off for securing a stylish profile and a sufficient space for installing a powerful armament as seen in the pics below.
The new profile looks much better for my eyes .  Anyhow good-looking in my sense of beauty in ship profile.


The last pic is before trimming off, on which Derek commented that he didn't dislike....

[Backerther]

Now the main hull ass'y is fundamentally complete after remolding neatly both side handrails of the hull around the foredeck as seen in the pics below. By this remolding work, she could have a powerful armament on the foredeck in the near future.
Priming and puttying work will be done just before painting to be scheduled on early October.
As the hull is complete and next work is succeeded to installing a driving mechanism in the hull.

[Backerther]

From today, the building process has gotten into new stage as to make a drive system starting from the motors.
The motors are 540 class high-powered ones and I cut the long shafts short.
Cooling jackets are the "must" for my intended application to sail at speed on the large lake as done so far in my similar cases.

[Backerther]

I just assembled provisionally the driving gears briefly to see how they go in the assembled hull.
The result was so so. Surprising was a pair of stern tube sets included in the kit which were supported by two ball bearings to each
tube.   They work very well and I've never used such high level of tubes so far though I had no troubles even with conventional style of stern tubes composed of brass tubes and stainless shafts.
The screw props are my own selections for a speed running as the kit-provided ones are soooo poor for my application.

[derekwarner]

Evening KiyEvening KiyoOne would hope that the kit designer has researched model-boat propeller drive shafts well, before producing these which appear to be a maintenance free designHowever I see a few areas of concernSub-miniatu

Sub-minature ball bearings are available with stainless steel inner and outer shells., with alternate grade stainless steel balls, and these can designated as LLU [plastic shields] or ZZ [stainless steel shields], however….neither of these variants are 100% water prooferproof

• Teflon thrusTeflon thrust washers are shown between the propellor spacer and the outboard shaft ball bearing , Teflon being a relatively soft plastic type material will be squeezed [permanently deformed] due to the rotational thrust, so eliminating their intended purpose, whilst letting water ingress to the outboard bearing seal
• The propeller spacers appear to be secured by [I am guessing] M3? carbon steel hollow pointed Grub Srews  ….the internal hex drive will corrode out despite sealing with grease

PM me your mailing address in Japan, & I will post over a few of the M3 stainless steel   hollow pointed Grub screws
Derek

[Backerther]

I have ever used this type of carbon steel grub screws so far for RC boats at the same places and surely as you said a certain level of corrosion could be seen which were not fatal for loosening to replace with new ones.
I have lots of grub screws which are mostly carbon steel and some are steel.

Thank you for your cordiality extended to me, Derek.

[Backerther]

Provisional linkages of rudders are finished having gained a required steering angle for this speed RC scale boat.
I'm not sure if I should really need this level of angle in a normal sailing after fully completed, but I think it necessary to set like this level for a first trial run.   Final maximum steering angle will be naturally decided in due course through several/many trial runs actually on the water.
Setting place is sooo narrow for this massive hull size....

[Backerther]

I made a pair of cooling water inlet nipples and stern tube supports, but not fixed yet.
They are indispensable for me to set in the hull for this fast sailing boat on the lake at speed.
Stern tube supports had better be set to secure reliable and stable driving of the motors and screw shafts, especially at higher speed.

I don't use brushless motors for this boat as I don't think it necessary to do so for this scale vessel.
Instead, I adopted a bit high performance 540class motors as I expect a fast-sailing capability on the lake
as usual. This boat is 40.5" long and a bit larger for me to build recently as a RC scale fast boat. In such circumstances,540 class brushed motors I think are suitable to get the boat to run fast as a scale RC model boat.

[Backerther]

I checked the driving gears provisionally assembled to see how they may go well and the result was so so which means OK to accept.
Final permanent setting of the gears is supposed to carry out after painting the hull.