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[Backerther]

Hi all,
Congratulations, we all possibly could be able to post again as we have done so far so energetically here. 
In commemoration of this happy timing, I would like to set a new topic as titled on the above.
This will be an "in-a-year project"to finish including a perfectly satisfying sailing test, a bit long for me in these years..
This model will be the very first Japanese ship unusually in the past 4 decades.
I selected this ship by her streamlined long hull with massive superstructures.   a bit nervous about top-heavy characteristic...

 She is one of the latest Aegis-equipped DDGs, the name ship of JS Maya-class in our navy. Another sister ship JS Haguro DDG180 was commissioned in 2022,one year later than JS maya. Overall length is 170m(558 feet) with a beam of 69feet, full loaded displacement of 10,250t which sizes are just similar to those of USN Ticonderoga-class guided missile cruiser.

For the sake of re-confirmation of image-posting to be attached to the text in respective subject, I attached the pics as follows from my reference information I gathered.
The building works will start possibly from next week....
Well then, gents, shall we re-start again as we have done so far.!!!!!!!!

[Backerther]

The parcel of the kit arrived as the pics below. I checked roughly the contents and noticed some parts lacking soon that were later informed against the supplier.
The packing was cordially done and no damage was found at all. There is no instruction manual and the like at all although it has been informed of previously.

The initial impression is her slender hull.    46.5" long and 5.7" beam...The largest Aegis-equipped DDG in Japan navy currently.  Wow,wow !!

[NavyShooter]

That's a nice sized model! 

Can you provide some closer up images of the hull modules?  Particularly near the Sonar Transducer dome at the bow?


Looks like a nice project for the pond!  What size motors are you intending to use?  I picked up some 380 size for my Type 26 build.


NS

[Backerther]

Hi Navy Shooter,


Here are the pics around the bow sonar and I intend to use 380 Mabuchi motors as in the pics which will be sufficiently enough to
get the ship to sail with scale realism.!!

Black lines shows what will be reshaped later.

Kiyo

[swiftdoc]

I will follow this build with gret interest as well, Kiyo. I wonder if you will be able to sail her in strong winds though, as the superstructure is quite big

[NavyShooter]

Thanks for that detailed close-up!  She's about as faceted as the T26 files that I got.  I've done a bit to smooth mine out, but there's a lot of sanding and filling to smooth things out.

NS

[Backerther]

I will follow this build with gret interest as well, Kiyo. I wonder if you will be able to sail her in strong winds though, as the superstructure is quite big

Hi Arno,
Yes, indeed.!! I am worrying about this point, most fatal top-heavy nature from these superstructures in RC sailing model...
In order to cope with this tendency, I am studying how to build this model to get her to sail as much as possible..


By the way, this JS Maya is present Japan navy destroyer and the second ship with this name.
The first one is IJN Maya, a heavy cruiser, with OAL over 200m(663feet) with displacement over 15,000t served in WW2.
This old IJN Maya had much larger superstructure by which Japanese model boat fans have been fascinated still now saying so powerful as a heavy cruiser. She was refitted for an air defence cruiser later in the WW2.


Kiyo

[Backerther]

Thanks for that detailed close-up!  She's about as faceted as the T26 files that I got.  I've done a bit to smooth mine out, but there's a lot of sanding and filling to smooth things out.

NS

Hi NavyShooter,
What kind of putty are you using to smooth the surface in your work.
I'm going to use the putty for car...still studying what to use since my JS maya is the second 3D kit to build so that no sufficient knowledge is obtained on this point up to now.
Your brick-colored putty is easy to apply and quick to dry??


Kiyo
 

[NavyShooter]

Ahoy!


I'm using standard Bondo/3M Glazing and spot putty:
3M Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, 4.5 oz, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, Can Be Used on Metal, Fiberglass, Wood and more, Fast Drying, Sandable in 30 Minutes (907C) : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement


Something I learned from a friend is that a lot of folks doing 3D printing use it and actually mix it with acetone thinner and brush it on - then it flows well into the creases of 3D prints.  I did this with my HMS Puncher model (picture attached) and was very pleased with how it turned out. 

Dries quickly - with the Acetone brush method, you can recoat in a couple hours.

[Backerther]

Ahoy!


I'm using standard Bondo/3M Glazing and spot putty:
3M Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, 4.5 oz, Fills Pinholes, Scratches, Minor Dings & Hairline Cracks, Can Be Used on Metal, Fiberglass, Wood and more, Fast Drying, Sandable in 30 Minutes (907C) : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement


Something I learned from a friend is that a lot of folks doing 3D printing use it and actually mix it with acetone thinner and brush it on - then it flows well into the creases of 3D prints.  I did this with my HMS Puncher model (picture attached) and was very pleased with how it turned out. 

Dries quickly - with the Acetone brush method, you can recoat in a couple hours.

Thank you so much so quick a reply and very well informative for me, NavyShooter.
I'll scrutinize it in detail.!

[Backerther]

I just put the model together very roughly to know how it should go neatly well at each joint among the respective sections.
The impression is so so with no problems fundamentally. I am thinking how to join the hull sections firmly currently in this model.
General profile seems OK for me as it grasp whole image of JS Maya and anxiety is her weight, namely if she should keep a planned draught line on the water after full completion....  
In my previous 3D model of 1/38 Super Guardian class patrol boat, the line is nearly perfect as planned actually on the water
by which she looks very realistic as well as stable in sailing for my eyes as seen below, though she looks top-heavy just at a glance.

[Akira]

3D kits are an entirely new realm. I am an old school builder, but I can still drool with the best of them. I am drooling now watching these builds. Please keep us well posted!

[Backerther]

Akira,
Thank you for your interest in my build of 3D kit.
This kind of 3D kit seems so adequate for me who has sufficiently become old, in terms of construction period that could allow us to complete the model within a year including sailing test.   Whole profile and shape are fundamentally completed with the kit basis which is better than conventional pla-model kit that I like for RC conversion.
 
To make the matter better/best, I could save a lot of time to share out for other things as to enjoy exercise , sailing existing model boats/ running RC cars all of which have been built spending huge amount of time, or for common time with my wife as to go to movie theater or music concert and the like...

Kiyo

[derekwarner]

Well Kiyo......DDG's [destroyers] are always interesting models [I have a soft spot, as in an earlier life I have worked on our older Hobart Class RAN DDG's.......5" gun mounts, but my main role was with the GMLS13 missile launcher systems]....


I see your JS Maya Class has 2 x GE LM2500 gas turbines, and 2 x smaller IHI gas turbines....all made under License to the original spec


The truly amazing design fact is the ability to undo 1/2 a dozen bolts & unplug 6 wires, then each complete engine module can be lifted out of the vessel axis vertically via a hatch in the top deck & a replacement engine module unpacked from a 20ft container & installed all before lunch time

I agree this form of 3D kits are certainly a way forward to earlier completion and enjoyable sailing

Derek

[PS....naturally a little    in the minimization of engine change out hours]

[Backerther]

Hi Derek,
Thank you for your comment.
I know very well of RAN DDG Hobart-class by only name.
She just looks top-heavy from her appearance as well as JS Maya....? I wonder how you actually felt through service onboard the ship...   Our WW2 light aircraft carrier "Ryujyo" was worst in this point as seen below..."
Needless to say, later greatly refitted, but the countermeasures was ridiculously poor due to its abnormal top-heavy..!!!
Top-heavy champion in IJN.!!!!?
Kiyo

[derekwarner]

My typo sorry Kiyo  ........the DDG's I worked on were the steam turbine powered HMAS Brisbane, Perth & Hobart, the American Charles F Adams Class

[Backerther]

The build has started from taking a bath, not me but JS Maya as seen below...!!
She has to be clean in the very beginning for becoming an awesome lady in the future for which sha was obliged to take a bath and wash her body with neutral detergent for eliminating oily elements on her surface.
I have made it a practice this process to get a good bond so far whenever I assembled a plastic-made model.
In this sense, this work is like a ceremony before assembling a pla-model.
The effect is always very nice.   And she has become very clean on her surface, needless to say.

[KitS]

Getting her used to the water at an early age, always a good idea. 

[Backerther]

Hi KitS,
Ahha,ha,ha,ha-
Thanks a lot for your friendly comment.!!
Kiyo

[NavyShooter]

Are you sure she's not a submarine model?


I'll note, I have heard of doing this for plastic model kits that are made in molds - the companies use a mold release agent that needs to be washed off lest the paint not stick properly.


With a 3D printed model, I don't think there's any mold release agent, so I'd suspect this might be overkill!


NS

[Backerther]

Hi NavyShooter,
A great thanks for your anxiety for my JS Maya.
I have done quite the same in my previous 3D model ship of Super-Guardian class patrol boat as seen below.
The effect is quite OK when applying primer-surfacer as well as painting.
Moreover, good effect also could be seen in this JS Maya by a certain test after the bathing.
Kiyo

[NavyShooter]

Beautiful job on the hull! 

[Backerther]

Thanks a lot, NavyShooter.!

[Backerther]

After purifying the whole hull and superstructures for a good bond of their components each other, I spent a happy time for cultivating how to build the model without any plans nor instruction manual, which I have never experienced so far...
I only have 2 books on JS Maya.
And also, I studied through watching the model on the table what else I have to get ready for building RC working ship, such as sizes and shape of screws, stern-tubes, motor couplings, rudder mechanism and the like at this stage.

In order to build the model as light as possible for better sailing behaviour on the water and keeping a realistic draught line, I decided fundamentally not to install any other working functions like radar rotation, working lights and the like which may perhaps lead to top-heavy characteristic.  This model is to be dedicated to a frequently playable RC model on the water rather than a super model filled with super details.    Therefore, I will hardly stick to excessively detailed model, but not to say "semi-scale model". 
Because my ultimate purpose to build a scale RC model ship is to see and enjoy it sailing realistically on the water outdoors not in a room.!!

"Hard to port, hurry!"  Wow!    It's 16 degrees C here in Tokyo by chance.!!

[ballastanksian]

She looks cool Kiyo! I am impressed how the industry has begun to develop ship kits like this and though it would be nice to see the less facetted, this will come with time I am sure.


A few thoughts on subjects you have raised:


An option (though really inaccurate) to help keep Maya upright is to build a removable lead keel that fits to the outer bottom of the hull. It need not be very deep, just enough to provide that ballast to keep her upright.


I don't think it hurts to wash a hull before working on it. I bought a second hand styrene hull off Ebay (it became HMS Ready) and it needed a good clean before working on it. Even if it isn't sticky or greasy, it might be dusty so a wash gets you stared in the right lace.


Radar etc: An idea I had while reading your topic was to have the heavy parts like the motor as far down in the hull as possible joined to the radar by a rod in a tube, like a propshaft. Lights might be difficult to keep the weight down on though you can get very small LEDs. If each light requires a resistor, perhaps have them down in the hull or under the deck and have wires going up to them?


Either way, keep up the good work!