Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down

Author Topic: Fibreglassing a hull  (Read 23972 times)

tigertiger

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,803
  • Location: Kunming, city of eternal springtime, SW China.
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #25 on: November 19, 2007, 01:25:22 pm »

Hi Bluebird.

Are there limitaions on what type of paint/varnish I can use?

Is epoxy resin waterproof?
Logged
The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,911
  • Location: South shields
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #26 on: November 19, 2007, 01:52:10 pm »

Hi there TT,

I dont think there would be any limitations, as long as the paint is waterproof and the fibre glass is prepared correctly for painting.   I normally use either Humbrol, Tamya, Halfords' spray paints etc., and I have had no problems with these peeling off.

Epoxy resin, yes, is waterproof - but, please be careful.   As Kayem & I have both mentioned = some people do develop allergies with this stuff.  Allergies vary from severe skin rashes to actually effecting respiratory system i.e. breathing can become difficult in some cases fatal, so be very very careful and heed all warnings on the instructions.   Like a lot of things in life, some folk can use them and not be bothered with them one little bit, but its not worth the risk - use all precautions - treat it as a deadly enemy and with great respect.

aye
john e
bluebird
Logged
Knowledge begins with respect
But fools hate wisdom and discipline

HS93 (RIP)

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,922
  • I cannot spell , tough
  • Location: Rainhill UK
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #27 on: November 19, 2007, 04:52:43 pm »

 I am shore some of our paint people will put me right, but a mate of mine who is in the paint trade told me at one time that the only paints that where not porous where Two pack paints, I went in to this when trying to seal my fire tender and everytime I suggested a type of  paint that we use  he said it was not. as it was air drying or something.

Peter
Logged

Colin Bishop

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 12,474
  • Location: SW Surrey, UK
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #28 on: November 19, 2007, 05:11:11 pm »

I think it's true to say that NOTHING is truly waterproof - there are just degrees of water resistance. Epoxy finishes are up there at the high end. However. model boats spend only a fraction of their total life afloat so most modelling paints, enamel or acrylic, are quite suitable as a final finish. The danger, as as already been mentioned, is that if the paint film is broken due to a knock or a scrape, water can get to the underlying surface which should be "waterproof" in it's own right - i.e. sealed with resin or sealer etc.
Logged

Martin13

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #29 on: November 20, 2007, 11:19:59 am »

This is one of my better threads - must say a big thankyou to all on this subject matter.

HS93  Peter - thanks for the info on links - very informative.

Kayem and Bluebird - I like both methods that have been put forward and seeing that I have the Mk1 and Mk 2 hulls, I'm keen to try both methods of skinning and fibreglassing the hulls to see what works best for me.

 After all, what's the worst thing that could happen?

I'll build another one  (Mk3)
Quoting Monty Python - it fell over, burnt down and sunk into the swamp !!!!!

Finally received a copy of the Glassfibre Handbook in the post - Highly recommended - You can never have too much information.

Its good to see that other forum members like TigerTiger have gained knowledge and in some cases preempt my thoughts

Now  - can someone please tell what is P38 Filler and what does the abbreviation SWMBO mean ???

Thanks again everyone.

Martin in Aussie land
Logged

Tug-Kenny RIP

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,625
  • Location: Newport. S Wales
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #30 on: November 20, 2007, 11:23:09 am »


    SWMBO


"She who must be obeyed"                    (the missus"


Ken

Logged
Despite the high cost of living   .......... It remains popular

Colin Bishop

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 12,474
  • Location: SW Surrey, UK
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #31 on: November 20, 2007, 11:27:32 am »

Quote
what is P38 Filler

Easy sand version of car body repair filler. If you use the harder versions there is a danger that the surrounding hull will sand down quicker than the filler leaving a proud spot. P38 also sticks well to most things.
Logged

Martin13

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #32 on: November 20, 2007, 11:49:28 am »

Gosh I love this forum stuff.

I asked the guys at work what SWMBO meant and couldn't tell me - they will love this one - thanks Kenny.

Colin - I fell for that trap on my Mk1 Hull where the filler was proud of the surrounding timber.
         Is P38 a brand name ??
Logged

tigertiger

  • Global Moderator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 7,803
  • Location: Kunming, city of eternal springtime, SW China.
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #33 on: November 20, 2007, 12:41:21 pm »

I think P38 used to be one of Isopon's branded fillers.

Get in in Halfords I imagine.
Logged
The only stupid question is the one I didn't ask

Colin Bishop

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Online Online
  • Posts: 12,474
  • Location: SW Surrey, UK
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #34 on: November 20, 2007, 12:47:56 pm »

P38 is a brand name see here: http://www.ppc.au.com/fills.htm

There are other brands of polyester easy sand paste filler you should be able to get hold of quite easily though.
Logged

anmo

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 299
  • That's unpossible!
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #35 on: November 20, 2007, 01:03:48 pm »

Gosh I love this forum stuff.

I asked the guys at work what SWMBO meant and couldn't tell me - they will love this one - thanks Kenny.

Colin - I fell for that trap on my Mk1 Hull where the filler was proud of the surrounding timber.
         Is P38 a brand name ??

There's an amusing footnote to this, the first time I ever heard the expression SWMBO was quite a few years ago on a wonderful TV series called 'Rumpole of the Bailey', uttered regularly in reference to his rather forbidding wife by the late Leo McKern, a much loved actor who died only quite recently. The amusing bit comes from the fact that Leo was an Australian born in Sydney, so most of the UK probably thinks that the expression SWMBO originated in Australia. But apparently not, so 'fair dinkum' to you.
Logged
caution, may contain traces of nuts .....

banjo

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #36 on: November 20, 2007, 01:16:48 pm »

Rumpole

Leo was a great actor;

Born March 16, 1920
Sydney, Australia

Died July 23, 2002 (aged 82)
 
 however he didn't write the script...that was a posh London type..John Mortimer...

People don't really think they make up the words as they go along..do they?
Logged

kayem

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 159
  • .....excellent!
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #37 on: November 20, 2007, 02:59:56 pm »


People don't really think they make up the words as they go along..do they?

What??? You're telling me that they don't ????

Valerie Singleton once had to sweep elephant turds off the Blue Peter set, she told me so herself, so what's the difference?
Logged
"Outside of a dog, a man's best friend is a book; inside of a dog, it's very dark" Groucho Marx

slewis

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #38 on: November 20, 2007, 10:26:47 pm »

TT for your cloth it may be worthwhile looking here
[urlhttp://www.fibretechgb.co.uk/DefaultHome.htm][/url]
I use them a lot for aircraft builds and also for hull building . I dont know how it fits into your plans for a UK visit but they are great on postage to the Uk so if you have an addy here for them to send to it WILL be there for you to collect from  O0

HTH

Shane
Logged

Martin13

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #39 on: November 21, 2007, 09:56:20 am »

Bluebird - John,

With regards to the intermediate stringers as per your drawing, what width material do you suggest and should I use a soft or hardwood ???

Thanks

Martin
Logged

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,911
  • Location: South shields
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #40 on: November 21, 2007, 10:04:40 am »

Martin, hi there,

On the size of hull you are building, I would use between 5mm square and 6mm square intermediate stringers, around about that size.

Softwood may steam and bend better to get the right curves in the hull as you come towards the bow.

If you want to use a hardwood, what you could do, is,  use 2 pieces, 3mm x 6mm wide laminated together to give you the 6mm square.  However, obviously, you would first have to glue one piece of the 3mm x 6mm timber onto your frames first.   You would then have to glue the next piece on the top of it.

 Hope this is of some help..

aye
john e
bluebird
Logged
Knowledge begins with respect
But fools hate wisdom and discipline

Martin13

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #41 on: November 21, 2007, 10:22:32 am »

Hi John - Bluebird,

Thanks for info on stringers - had a feeling about the size.

In the recent past whilst working on a glider wing using CA glue, I had a god like thought that I could walk on water - I sunk !!!!
After that experience, I installed a dust and fume extraction system to my workshop. In one corner I have a 20 inch planner-great toy.

With regards to using resin, a fibreglass supplier suggested that I use epoxy resin instead of polyester resin stating that their is less chance of shrinkage and cracking over time.
I was also advised that whilst curing, I needed to keep the temperature around 20 degrees Centigrade otherwise it will not cure correctly and remain tacky.

Your thoughts.....

martin
Logged

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,911
  • Location: South shields
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #42 on: November 21, 2007, 10:55:07 am »

hi ya Martin

With regard to your question about using Epoxies and Polyester resins; to get the true answer for yourself, i.e. as to which one is the best; you will basically have to work with them both over a period of time.

They both have advantages over one another; and of course disadvantages; these are my thoughts on it;

Polyester Resins

These require a stable temperature to work in, as you have noticed, say round about 20 degrees Centigrade, but no lower than about 15 degrees Centigrade.    The hardener to resin mix ratio is pretty critical.

Compared between the two, pricewise, it is the cheaper one.  For what we are going to use this polyester resin for, e.g. modelling, it fills all our needs quite easily.  We do not keep our models in the water for great lengths of time (as in weeks on end  :) )  So we need not really worry regarding water being absorbed into the polyester, because, in normal circumstances there is a protective coating over them e.g. varnish.

Before polyester resins start to absorb water they have to be submerged for at least 2-3 days.

With regard polyesters shrinking and moving; all plastics do this, even Epoxies.   Some at a greater rate than others.

You have got to think about your application of the Polyester; you are not planning on building a great thickness of matting and resin up on your hull, e.g. something over 5mm.  So, therefore, I would not be too concerned about it moving and cracking, because, do not forget, any form of timber as well would expand and contract as well under working conditions.

Where problems surface is if we coat one side of the timber with matting and resin and leave the opposite side open to the environments.  This is because, if the timber side becomes damp, it will expand at a far greater rate and therefore delaminate from the polyester resin.  So, that is why it is always adviseable to give the inside of the hull a coating of resin as well as the outside.  This actually seals the timber.

The only major problem occurs when you build up a mass of fibre glass e.g. I have seen around bottoms of hulls and also rudder posts where people have laminated and poured resin in, to something say one inch thick, they think they are adding strength and this is where the polyester starts to deteriorate, move and crack.

Epoxy Resins

There are several grades of epoxies.  Several names too.   No doubt you will have heard of what is called 'The West System' which was the first system really developed for Marine Use, but that is the 1:1 scale Marine Use.   It is one of the highest water resistant epoxies and also one of the most expensive.   It's mix ratio is also critical - from the top of my head I think it is 3-1 mix ratio, i.e. 3 parts epoxy to one part hardener.   Sometimes to maintain this mix ratio, you have to purchase the correct dispensers.

Working with this - it is much the same as Polyester resin - its like a thin treacle.  It is not so temperature critical either, some specialised epoxies can be used in temperatures just above zero.  But, these are specialised epoxies.    It does have a less shrinkage to it, for arguments sake, let us say one inch square stick of polyester resin would expand 1/8 of an inch at 50 degrees.    One square inch of epoxy resin would only expand about 1/32 of an inch at 50 degrees.  These figures are not exact, but, just to give you some idea.  One of the major drawbacks is its price.  I think it is twice the price of a polyester resin.

Also, it is a slightly more hard resin, it withstands impacts and indentations at lot better than polyesters.   How do I know this,  :embarrassed: the concrete at the side of the lake is very HARD a lot harder than polyesters and epoxies put together  {-).

I suppose last but not least at all there are health warnings that go with them which I believe we have mentioned elsewhere. 

So, to be honest with you, its another case of, the choice is yours,  if you are prepared to pay that little extra for the Epoxies, it will give you a longer lasting hull.   If your hull is going to endure all different environments.

However, if you are just going to use your model say a couple of times a week on a standard lake, but from the pictures I have seen of some of the lovely lakes you have in Australia, we would class them as an Ocean  {-) {-) - the choice again, is yours.

Hope this is of some help to shed a little light.

(Please be aware though, I have just skimmed lightly over this topic).

Aye
John E
bluebird

Logged
Knowledge begins with respect
But fools hate wisdom and discipline

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,911
  • Location: South shields
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #43 on: November 21, 2007, 11:33:45 am »

Hi there Martin,

Curing times

Once the resin has 'gone off' (normal working time for working with polyester resin is between 20-30 minutes meaning resin in the pot).  The resin starts to cure as obvious.

At 20 degrees Centigrade, this should take between one-two hours at the most for the resin mix to set hard.

At 20 degrees Centigrade, it should be fully cured in about 3 hours.

If you are concerned, after the resin has 'gone off' and the smell has gone - you will know what I mean about that  :D - and without telling 'SWMBO' - move it into the house into room temperature and leave it there for a couple more hours.

hope this helps

aye
john e
bluebird
Logged
Knowledge begins with respect
But fools hate wisdom and discipline

Ron1

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #44 on: November 21, 2007, 11:50:29 am »

 and without telling 'SWMBO' - move it into the house into room temperature and leave it there for a couple more hours.




And then a few hours later the divorce papers are put in your hand. >>:-( >>:-( {-) {-)
Logged

boatmadman

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2,703
  • Location: South Cumbria
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #45 on: November 21, 2007, 03:13:36 pm »

Make an open topped mdf box to go over your hull, with the open side downmost, place hull and box on a workmate with the jaws part open, place low power greenhouse heater (electric only) underneath, leave for 24 hrs, no need to turn  ;) and your hull and epoxy will be well cooked and hardened.

NO gas or oil fired heater - they produce a wet heat.

Works for me

Ian
Logged
if at first you dont succeed.....have a beer.....

Martin13

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #46 on: November 22, 2007, 08:20:04 am »

John, you skim well - thanks again and again.

Boatmadman/Ian
Along time ago where I was once employed, we had a small spray booth at work and when the job was completed, we placed the items in another small booth and turned on incandescent lights for drying. I imagine this will have the same effect as per your suggestion.
As for the low power heater, what rating do you suggest - wattage.

Ron1, My wife puts up with a lot (but I deserve it), should I bring the hull into the house and tell her that there will be no smell or leave stains on the carpet, her response will be as per this riddle: -

What do you get if you cross a Bulldog with a Shi Tzu ?

Martin
Logged

Martin13

  • Guest
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #47 on: November 22, 2007, 08:39:24 am »

Bluebird / John,

Recently I  visited a manufacturer and retail outlet of fibreglass products with photo's of my model hull and explained to him the problems I was having.
He suggest "Epoxy Bond Fibreglassing Resin 430" and another product "Q-CEL 5020, Sodium Borosilicate Hollow Microspheres.

It was recommended that I mix the Q-Cels with the Epoxy resin to make a paste like substance and coat the bow area hopefully correcting the imperfections.

Check out their website http://www.solidsolutions.com.au
 they have a 2 night course on fibreglassing and mould making - do you think I should attend ????

Martin
Logged

kayem

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 159
  • .....excellent!
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #48 on: November 22, 2007, 08:50:23 am »

and without telling 'SWMBO' - move it into the house into room temperature and leave it there for a couple more hours.

And then a few hours later the divorce papers are put in your hand. >>:-( >>:-( {-) {-)

There's a very simple solution to this, once your polyester/epoxy laminate is touch dry, wrap it in polythene, a large bag or bin bag will do, tape up the ends, and that cures any smell problem. Then bring this into the house and leave it against a radiator for a day or two. It helps if you turn it from time to time so it 'cooks' evenly. The technical term for this process is 'post-curing', industrial users have proper low temperature ovens, but this small scale domestic solution works just as well. Never rush anything like this, you've probably spent weeks working on the job, so an extra day isn't going to make a lot of difference. An awful lot of modelling moulding disasters that I've been told about were caused largely by impatience on the part of the modeller, it isn't a process that can be rushed.
Logged
"Outside of a dog, a man's best friend is a book; inside of a dog, it's very dark" Groucho Marx

John W E

  • I see no ships !!
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 8,911
  • Location: South shields
Re: Fibreglassing a hull
« Reply #49 on: November 22, 2007, 09:58:30 am »

Good day Martin

Personally, if it was me, I would definitely attend a two nights' course in fibre glassing.    It may not cover exactly what you want to do, but it should give you the confidence in working with fibre glass.  Possibly it will also answer a few of the unforeseen questions which everyone comes across.  :)

aye
john e
bluebird
Logged
Knowledge begins with respect
But fools hate wisdom and discipline
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.019 seconds with 21 queries.