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[SimonCornes]

Simple question but I'm interested in solutions! Last year I picked up a built Model Slipway Trent Class lifeboat with working nav lights, etc. And the superstructure resulted in an 'umbilical' wire which I ended up having to make a bit longer so that I had half a chance of placing the superstructure next to the hull so that I could connect the LiPo propulsion batteries and the superstructure lights. If the umbilical was shorter then the risk of damaging railings with the umbilical lying on top increased. And of course you then have to manoeuvre that lot into the hull when you fit the superstructure! There's got to be a better way so what would you do?

My initial thought was a couple of flat  brass contacts in the hull and then two sprung brass contacts in the superstructure but what if you need the radio connecting to something in the superstructure as well such as a Graupner multi switch unit??

Thank you.

[Colin Bishop]

Simon,
In those circumstances it is best to fit 'flying leads' with plugs fora secure connection which should fold away betrween the hull and superstructure as you appear to already have. You have to accept the flexible link. Brass contacts are likely to be ultimately unreliable.

Bear in mind that the electrical load in the superstructure usung LED lights or receiver etc. is very small so you can get away with very thin wires which take up minimal room.

Colin

[T888]

Hi,


What I do is to solder all the cables to a female D plug and have the male fitted to the deck and hide them with a locker deck box etc

[SimonCornes]

Interesting idea David, thank you

[SimonCornes]

Simon,
In those circumstances it is best to fit 'flying leads' with plugs fora secure connection which should fold away betrween the hull and superstructure as you appear to already have. You have to accept the flexible link. Brass contacts are likely to be ultimately unreliable.

Bear in mind that the electrical load in the superstructure usung LED lights or receiver etc. is very small so you can get away with very thin wires which take up minimal room.

Colin

In my experience with lifeboats so far, the superstructure is relatively heavy and its also quite fragile. I can see that just a pair of fairly small wires shouldn't be a problem but you wouldn't believe how many wires are joined together to end up with a veritable loom! If building from scratch I think you'd incorporate some sort of terminal block and I'm also thinking that it might be easier to attach a battery to the underside of the wheelhouse floor and just have a toggle switch or two (one lights, the other radar).

[harrin]

I have used D-connector as well.

[Colin Bishop]

Yes, that would certainly be a good option if you use a lightweight battery pack. The electrical load would be pretty minimal. Probably worth working out the current draw of the lights and radar and matching the battery to that. An AAA cell pack or similar size which could be charged off the boat might be a good choice.

Colin

[SimonCornes]

I have used D-connector as well.

I like this as something to incorporate at the build stage but retrofitting could be more trouble than it?s worth!

[SimonCornes]

Yes, that would certainly be a good option if you use a lightweight battery pack. The electrical load would be pretty minimal. Probably worth working out the current draw of the lights and radar and matching the battery to that. An AAA cell pack or similar size which could be charged off the boat might be a good choice.

Colin

I really think this could be the best solution to avoid trailing wires. As it stands I think I might have to work out what wires do what. My solution is to set my meter to resistance then hold one wire to a probe and then try the other wires to identify which wire then shows a slight resistance and that must be the other wire - they?re tungsten bulbs I think. Then label each pair and decide if I want all the lights on one switch. Separate switch for the radar

[Stan]

How I installed lights to my Grand Banks cabin. I use two Action switches one Quad and one two way you can see they are numbered 1 to 6 this relates to  the lights on the cabin area.  From the switches the cables go to the Wago blocks these are also numbered 1 to 6 these numbers relate to certain lights. A connector is fitted on the cables this will allow the cabin to be reomved.

[SimonCornes]

Thank you Stan! Wow, that looks complicated! Much easier to do when you're building it! I think if I had just a circuit for the radar and maybe two light circuits then that would be enough!


Simon

[6705russell]

Simon


What voltage do you need to the superstructure, have you thought about installing a small battery pack in the wheelhouse and using a separate wireless RF unit/switcher?

[JimG]

There have been several good ideas for the connection between the superstructure and the hull but to go back to your original idea you might want to look at pogo pin connectors. These are spring loaded and are now commonly used in industry where they need electrical connection between two touching parts. (The Garmin Sat Nav I use has these pins for connecting the power when it is put onto it's mount.) They are available from Amazon as a complete connection system with varying numbers of connectors.
Jim