Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips > Radio Equipment

rudder interference

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tidtug:
To keep you all up to date! I liked Neils idea best and it was easy to try with a spare transmitter battery! NO CHANGE! I have extracted all the wiring from the hull and seperated it as much as possible and away from the arial but to no improvement also tried cooking foil as a screen (it worked between a TV and Video many years ago). Looks like some capacitors then!!, what would puzzle me here is that if the motor is run from a seperate spare battry I get virtually  no problem!? Can it somehow 'feedback through the speed controller? The tug was built and had the motor in it when I bought it, and had had radio control control fitted so presumably it did work without capacitors, or maybe thats why it was for sale ;D
They will also be a bu***r to fit as the motor is kept in place by a tight plastic housing - stll thats a model boat.
Will keep you informed and THANKS for the advice

OMK:
Since it's a bit of a "xxxxx" to gain access to your motor, a quick 'n' dirty solution might be this...

Snip the wires that connect to the motor, then insert a 2-way, 15amp connector block (as per the attached sketch). Reconnect both wires and at the same time insert the suppression capacitor. Try to have it that the terminal block / capacitor assembly is as close to the motor as possible.
This is probably not the most elegant method, but it should get you out the poop.

The capacitor, by the way, can be any value between, say, 10nF and 100nF (0.01uF ~ 0.1uF). Just to clarify any confusion, it may have a number printed on the actual body. If it's a 0.01uF cap it will have '103'. If it's a 0.1uF it will have '104'. Be sure that its voltage rating is at least 25%  more than your battery supply.

As an aside, if may prove sagacious to include two more caps' with a value of 0.01uF. Solder the first one between the blue terminal and the actual motor body. Solder the second between the yellow terminal and motor body.
This, however, may be a moot point since you're having trouble getting good access. Fortunately, you may find that just the one cap - as seen in the sketch - will cure the fault.

Good luck.

Stavros:
Silly thought but are your servos ok had a similar problem with a tug cured it with a new servo,now before you lot jump down my throat for that one but it's true tried old servo in another and guess what same prob.If a servo is faulty it can case a backfeed and generally cause trouble hope this will help Stavros

Doc:
About the voltage rating of the capacitor(s), make them at least twice the supply voltage.  You might be suprised at the initial surge voltages at times.  Three times the supply voltage certainly won't hurt either.  The voltage rating can't be too high, it can certainly be too low!  If there's any significant difference in cost because of that, I'd find another supplier.

Stavros - Want another one of those qwerky servos?  Just happen to have one you can have...free!

 - 'Doc

OMK:
He's right.
That "...at least 25% more than your battery supply" is a typo. It's meant to be 250%.
The advice is good. Votages ratings cannot be too high.

Though, I'll bet my winning lottery ticket you haven't tried it yet (if ever).

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