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[mfv1132]

Can anyone recomend the use of foamboard in the construction of superstructures.I am reparing an old tug and looking for a material which is easy to work on.Ive not seen this material and would welcome advice from anyone who may have used it .
                                           cento

[Admhawk]

Eric at Homeport models in the US uses Gator board. It is a wood veneer(he calls it plastic, but it isn't) with a foam middle, not the paper one. He laser cuts it and has a lot of success. http://www.homeportmodels.com/ I have purchased a set, but haven't tried it yet.

[Martin (Admin)]

Bradders used 5mm foam board for the hull construction of his Springer..... very strong and easy to work, takes piant well.

[pops]

I am using Sintra, and find that it bonds well to itself and wood. It is easy to work with and comes in many sizes and even colors. It seems to hold its shape, but can be heated and formed. You might want to try a few sheets and experiment to see if it meets your expectations.

[mfv1132]

Thank you Martin,Admhawk and Pops for info. and suggestions. I have now obtained a sample of Foambord and will have to carry out some trials. Iwill also check up on the other materials referred to.
Has anyone used PVC in  boat construction ??

[mfv1132]

I have now decided to construct the superstructure of Foamboard but i am considering covering it with 1mm Plasticard. Has anyone used this method and if so with what success? Any info or tips i.e. glueing the one to the other  would be welcome. Thanks.

[alan colson]

I am helping the local sea cadets at the moment with a model build and we are using a compressed foamboard to make the superstucture, no problems and paints well. Also about 3 years ago I made the hull and deck of one of the small footie yachts using the same material, and it was on the lake last Sunday morning with its new owner.
Alan

[boatmadman]

I have stuck plasticard onto liteply using waterproof double sided tape. It worked very well, was fast and easy. Might be worth a try.

Ian

[Big Ada]

I am a Styrene/Plasticard convert,I use 1.5mm on its own for hulls and superstructures,its quick,clean and takes paint easy.

                                   Len

[boatmadman]

Len,
How about some tips then? Like, an easy way to cut square windows, what adhesive do you use? How long does the glue take to set? etc 

Ian

[Big Ada]

To cut square windows in Styrene I use a steel rule and a Stanley knife, gently score along the window outline then GENTLYflex to and fro around the window being careful not to let the score line creep out side the window outline, then you will find that the inside of the window will come loose.
Adhesive,Being an ex Plumber and carefull/tight with cash I go to a Plumbers Merchants and buy plastic waste pipe solvent CLEANER  NOT the adhesive,this is at least 3 times cheaper than Plastic weld.
Setting time, It melts and welds it almost straight away but leave for a few hours for greater strength.

The superstructure of my Springer is Styrene, the clear lower cabin is a Ferrero Rochere chocolate box that is compatable with Styrene and welds with the stuff I mentioned.

                                                 Len   

[dougal99]

I cut square holes out of styrene by scoring around the edge as Big Ada says but also scoring from corner to corner. You can then push the centre out.

HTH

Doug

[Colin Bishop]

As Dougal says, cutting diagonally as well as round the outline makes it a lot easier to get the centres out neatly.