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Author Topic: Stiff P38  (Read 6351 times)

sinjon

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Stiff P38
« on: January 08, 2008, 02:05:20 pm »

I am getting near the bottom of a tin of Isopon P38 filler, its getting to the stage where its becoming difficult to spread thinly 
Is there any fluid that can be added as a thinner?

Thanks
Colin
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Colin

Marks Model Bits

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2008, 02:09:49 pm »

Cellulose thinners will work, but you are most probably better off buying a new tin.

Mark.
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sinjon

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2008, 02:24:11 pm »

Thanks Mark, I will give the thinners a try, the tin nearly empty, didn't want to waste the last bit!
A new one is probably the answer.
A bit of fresh air will do me good.

Colin
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Colin

BobF

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2008, 03:27:25 pm »

Hi sinjon,

Don't thin your last bit of P38.
I always keep the last stale bit, for those jobs where the nice fresh runny stuff wont stay where you want it too.

Only my opinion though.

Bob
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sinjon

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2008, 03:58:47 pm »

Good one Bob, I'll put a spoonfull in an small airtight container.

Thanks
Colin
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Guy Bagley

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2008, 04:21:12 pm »

MEK OR PLASWELD WILL ALSO THIN IT DOWN....
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BobF

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2008, 04:29:33 pm »

Just posted this but it dissapeared. So I'll try again.

I would also recommend Milliput (not sure of spelling) box not to hand.

It is a much thicker 'putty like' filler worked by hand.

But almost impossible to rub down, and slow setting. Over night for strongest results.

Bob
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2008, 09:43:10 pm »


As long as you've got the hardener to match it, Sinjon.

I find I run out of the stuff before I run out of paste !!   Silly little flexi bags of the stuff.

Ken

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grantl

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2008, 10:11:59 pm »

I tend to mix the thick bit at the end of the old tin with a thin bit off the top of the new tin. ;D

Regards,

Grant.
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BobF

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2008, 11:41:36 pm »

High Tug---Kenny,

IM me your address and I'll send you some of the little bags of hardener, I always have it left over.

Bob
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2008, 11:43:47 pm »

Very handy for dentures I believe!  ;)
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2008, 10:48:20 am »


Hi Bob

I'm obviously using too much of the stuff.  :embarrassed:

Yes an extra bag would be nice. I've sent my Email. Thanks for your offer.

Next big job on the horizon. Might be securing the decks soon.

Ken

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Stavros

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2008, 10:49:44 pm »

Next time you are in Halfords or any motor factors you can buy them separately.

As for stiff p38 when it has reached this stage sorry lads but it is time to buy a new one,adding stuff to it,works yes BUT it is dammed harder to work and to rub down,I used to go spare with the apprentices who would scrape the bottom of the tins and make a right pigs ear of filling a dent as it took longer to get right

Stavros
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #13 on: January 15, 2008, 12:13:12 pm »


Hi BobF.

Thank you for the tube. It arrived this morning. Very pleased as it will take me to the end of my tin.  O0

Next time, I'll be a little conservative and eek it out better.

Cheers...Ken


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ABRAD

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2008, 11:14:01 pm »

Hi guys,
           I might be telling my granny how to suck eggs but, if you are running out of hardener before the filler tin is empty you are using too much hardener.
As a guide you use a small pea size amount of hardener to a large golf ball of filler(2 to 3% max). If you put large amounts of hardener as it sounds like you are doing, you will have problems at a later date with your paint work.
This is because as you are no doubt aware the hardener is an organic peroxide (methly ethyl ketone peroxide), any hardener left after the cure will bleach through, red paint will go pink and white will yellow, black grey etc.
Thinning down polyester filler with anthing other than ployester resin will cause solvent popping (little blisters and holes) in the later applied paint work.
If you use and mix the filler every time you use it, the hard stuf at the bottom of the tin does not happen and you should still have hardener at the end, throw it away as this has a shelf life the same as the filler. By the way if you get the smallest amount of hardener in the tin of filler it will send the lot of. Hope this helps frome a body filler boffin.
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Stavros

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #15 on: January 16, 2008, 11:22:40 pm »

Sounds like you are a car body person like some others of us on this site!!!!!


Stavros
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ABRAD

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2008, 11:54:29 pm »

Hi Stavros,
              Close, teach major vehicle crash repair, yes that was part of a body filler theory lesson, plus it feels good to quote some big words now and then, Acryonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) just love it when it rolls of the tongue He He O0
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Stavros

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #17 on: January 17, 2008, 12:00:41 am »

And there I thought you actually got your mitts dirty


Stavros
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #18 on: January 17, 2008, 10:55:29 am »


Hi Abrad.

Very informative, thank you for that.  Can I ask "what is the minimum" you recommend.

My latest batch yesterday was mixed with  'eye'.  That is to say, I put out about three table spoons of the filler and squeezed out about and inch and a half of hardener and stirred it all together.  I found I could spread it around the bulwarks ready for the deck fitting.  When I got to the end, the first section was going off.

This is probably a bit quick, according to your method.  It sounds like even the smallest amount will 'set it off'.  How long would this take, then ?

Also, the P38 is grey when out of the tin but goes a pinky colour when mixed. I find I was using this colour chart as a guide to the mix.  This now sounds like further trouble along the line with bleed affecting the paint.

All very amateurish, I know, but I am new to this.

Hope you can help

Ken

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Stavros

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #19 on: January 17, 2008, 05:24:29 pm »

As Abrad has said ratio is GOLF ball to a pea or 2to 3% NO MORE and if it's coming out RED well KEN you have used too much Hardener


Stavros
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #20 on: January 17, 2008, 07:30:27 pm »


ooh er .......... A lot of sanding ahead of me now. It's all in the Bulwarks.  Have to get some more sandpaper as it clogs up pretty quick.  :embarrassed:

Ken

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Colin Bishop

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #21 on: January 17, 2008, 09:12:09 pm »

I've been using Oakey Between Coats Sanding Sponges for various sanding applications. They do cost but they don't clog up anything like the standard abrasives and are washable too. I managed to find some going cheap so bought in a supply!
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ABRAD

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #22 on: January 18, 2008, 12:01:16 am »

Hi TUG---Kenny,
                      As Stavros Say's a little excessive, the time it takes to go off will also depend on the temperature of your work area. If the area you work the filler in is cool, use an angle poise lamp with one of those spot type bulbs for a little extra heat not to close though don't want to set it all on fire. Room temperature will be fine and will give you time to work the filler, you can clean your tools with thinners but before it has cured  DONT THIN THE FILLER WITH IT. When the filler is mixed it should only have a hint of pink (no red streaks), don't mix it on cardboard as this will push air into it (pin holes after sanding) use a sheet of thin plastic not styrene polyester solvents melt it, wipe it clean with thinners before it cures. You can use an onion board available from any good paint type motorfactors, it's a pad of special paper on a stiff card backing when you have used a sheet tear it of and bin it to reveal a new sheet. HOPE THIS HELPS
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ABRAD

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #23 on: January 18, 2008, 12:47:49 am »

 Hi All,
         Forgot to say TUG---Kenny if you are using sand paper as you say, it will clog, you need to use Aluminium Oxide production paper for sanding filler. This medium doesn't clog like sand paper.
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Stiff P38
« Reply #24 on: January 18, 2008, 07:18:56 pm »


Thanks everyone.  Just came in, armed with more sandpaper. I have a selection of differrent types, but your suggestion of Aluminium paper was not one of them. I'll try and get some as well.  I plan to use 'Wet or Dry' with water, and maybe this will get it all damp and thin it out.

Ken

 
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