Topic: Robbe u-47 (Read 31839 times)

bbdave · « **on:** February 09, 2008, 01:26:08 pm »

Hi just got home with the kit i'll be posting the build on here,but won't be getting the sticky stuff out yet untill i've read the instructions till they're worn out. so there will be lots of questions and problems posted here with the pics. Let the games begin!!

Stan · « **Reply #1 on:** February 09, 2008, 01:46:58 pm »

Hi BB Dave. Glad you are happy with the kit just going in the garage to get the fleet ready for Sunday morning.If you open up the warship section on mayhem Look for Gambier Bay you should see some pictures of my carrier. Hope to see you at Harrogate in May.

All the best
Stan

bbdave · « **Reply #2 on:** February 11, 2008, 07:26:50 pm »

Ok on reading the instructions it seems a fair amount of the joints are done with cyno is this considered a good joint? as i assumed cyno to be very brittle and would eventualy fail.

Sub driver · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2008, 11:05:35 am »

Hello Dave,

Regarding your question about cyano, just about all the internal " frame " joints are glued using cyano, and when "fixed" are solid, if you have to undo the joint you have to physically tear apart the plastic the joint is VERY strong.

Make sure that it is right first time or you will have probs trying to fix it if its not in the correct position.

Build the frame up DRY first to ensure all is correct AND NOT TWISTED. I have seen some where the internal frame has not been given the care attention that is required when building and it looks awful and sealing problems follow later.
When correct you can always go over with Stabilit Express to reinforce the joints if you wish. I would reccomend STABILIT EXPRESS for the rest of the build as ROBBE do , not a cheap glue but very durable and it will stick all the brass parts to the plastic too.

It does pong a bit so do it when "she" is out for the day unless you have a centrally heated workshop / shed that is

If you are going for the Engel tank dive system you need to mod the internal frame / tray from the start to allow for the tank and reinforce it at certain points, just ask and I will give you some info and pics ( if you want that is ).

Also the screw joint needs SILVER soldering too, there is a lot of stress put on this one piece of the kit and I have seen / heard of this snapping when screwed in on some boats when soft soldered as it tells you too in the instructions and its a hell of a job to get it out again when half of it is stuck in the boat !!!!! >:(

Hope this is of use. regards sub

bbdave · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2008, 07:03:02 pm »

Thanks sub driver i've started to cut out the hull mouldings can you tell me how best to remove the parts from the flat sheet material it seems very tough to cut.
also the hull sections i have cut seem to have a slight curve to them and are fidley to marry up is that normal?
The centre keel re-enforcement strip is tapered at each end does the keel pinch at either end to meet up with it, i am asking this as the instructions don't mention it they just say lay it flat and glue it?

Sub driver · « **Reply #5 on:** February 12, 2008, 07:19:06 pm »

I take it you are on with the central tray, you can use a fret saw or band saw , it should be scored about 1/2 way through so you only really have to cut the solid bits and then you should be able to fold and snap out the part you require.

bbdave · « **Reply #6 on:** February 14, 2008, 08:58:44 pm »

does anyone know what current draw the kit motors have?

Subculture · « **Reply #7 on:** February 15, 2008, 12:57:46 pm »

Never put an ammeter on a set, but they are powerful motors, hence rather thirsty.

If you are fitting a ballast tank, then it's worth looking at less powerful motors- the power is needed for a dynamic diver to get sufficient speed to produce the required downforce on the hydrovanes to submerge.

Also worth considering 12 volt electrics if you upgrade the motor.

Andy

6705russell · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2008, 07:58:43 pm »

I to am building the U47, i will get the motors out later and put the clip on ammeter on them.

What voltage are you intending to run at?

Russ

mick · « **Reply #9 on:** February 15, 2008, 08:15:14 pm »

hello bbdave, be careful when using cynao, these glues can present breathing problems. The u-47 uses plenty of this type of adhesive. I use a face mask when building models with this glue....Mick

6705russell · « **Reply #10 on:** February 15, 2008, 08:29:37 pm »

Ok i just tested the motors on the bench and they pulled 0.3amps running on 6 volt and 0.9 amps running on 12 volt, i couldnt stall them completely but very close and they were pulling 8.5 - 11 amps respec

Cheers

Russ

bbdave · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2008, 04:59:17 pm »

cheers russ handy to know i think i'll stick to 6v as i'm not wanting to run fast
i have seperated the hull parts and they don't marry up to well is that normal? is it just a case of tack gluing them together first then putting the re-enforcing strips in then filling any gaps later?

6705russell · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2008, 07:11:04 pm »

I bought my kit second hand and to be honest the hull parts were cut out but not very good, i have sanded but i dont think you can get them spot on, however the centre hull section and the front hull section can be filled and sanded to achieve a good finish, with the rear section that needs to be quite flush because we cannot fill this gap, i am finding now that there is a few pieces missing but i can make most from scratch.

Russ

bbdave · « **Reply #13 on:** February 20, 2008, 11:43:15 pm »

I have noticed in the kit the wotsits (can't remember the name) that hold the square :-\ rod into the hydroplanes apear to be mild steel if this is the case are stainless or brass ones readily available if so where from?

Collets!

colin-stevens · « **Reply #14 on:** February 21, 2008, 11:20:55 am »

just about any model shop. Just ask for ones for youre I/Dia

periscope · « **Reply #15 on:** February 22, 2008, 07:21:23 pm »

Built my sub using Cyno two years ago - still going strong with no failures (famous last words)

bbdave · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2008, 10:48:15 pm »

Tried a test today with cyno might just be me but i'm not happy with it so i think i'll use stabliit i have more confidence in it . i'm just not a cyno fan i'm affraid ???

bbdave · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2008, 07:39:41 pm »

All the bits have arrived today so the build can start. after many hours of reading and looking on the web i have decided to copy a method i have seen for constructing a new tech rack whih i think will be easyier than modifying the orriginal with this in mind i have bought a bayonet ring for wtc.

Dream arts tower deck and bayonett ring.

Engel tank with proportional control. and the centre sections cut ready for the masks.

I have some 4mm acrylic to make the tech rack i am copying this chaps idea which looks straight forward enough as long as i take my time. What could possibly go wrong???? :-\

http://media.putfile.com/u47-static-conversion

bbdave · « **Reply #18 on:** February 27, 2008, 07:15:53 pm »

Glueing started this evening i have glued the slot masks on and i am now waiting for the glue to set on the joint for the centre section hull so far so good. i am glad i opted for the stabilit aproach as i have time to line every thing up.

bbdave · « **Reply #19 on:** March 19, 2008, 12:06:34 am »

i have got a little further i have got all the hull halves together now and have installed the tube in the centre section i decided to fit the planes and rudders after the hulls are glued together as i think it'll be easier to line everything up. i have built the first section of the tech rack which took alot of measuring but it seems to fit. the rest of the rack should hopfully be straight forward as it is jus a case of positioning the bulkheads where needed to accomodate all the gear. then comes the job of arranging the glueing order of the stern section end cap tech rack and bayonet ring

but i'm sure it will all become clear.

Hull halves stuck together

The first part of the bayonet ring attached using stabilit then epoxy and glass mat.

The motor bulkhead servo tray and endcap bulkhead ready for the rest of the tech rack.

if anyone spots any problems please let me know as this is quite a steep learning curve

bbdave · « **Reply #20 on:** March 19, 2008, 07:10:21 pm »

I have done some more work on the tech rack which seems to be ok so far there looks to be plenty of room but i'm sure that'll dissapear when all the gubbins comes.

bbdave · « **Reply #21 on:** March 24, 2008, 12:49:25 am »

for some reason all my pictures have gone off photobucket but i have them back now so i'll post the last few on here as a recap.

Mankster · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2008, 09:30:41 pm »

Nice work on the rack :)

bbdave · « **Reply #23 on:** March 27, 2008, 07:06:21 pm »

Been busy the past couple of days i've completed the rear section which was the most complicated part in my mind but it has all glued up fine so hopefully it should be fairly straight forward from here.

The rear a Aframes glued after being carefully lined up an measured to many times to mention

The bayonet ring fixed to the rack

The rear section being glued to the rear of the rack a nervous moment hoping all the lining up and measuring has paid off

Hey presto! i love it when a plan comes together.

Time for a celebratory cup of tea

bbdave · « **Reply #24 on:** April 05, 2008, 12:21:30 pm »

Yesterday i made all the linkages to the rudders and rear planes sealed up the shafts etc ready for the bath later today so fingers crossed there will be no leaks :'(. if all goes well i'll be then ready to glue the bow on and concetrate on the bow planes. So a few pictures of the install which doesn't look pretty but it is a very small space to work in so most of it is done using long nosed pliers which adds to the problem

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Author Topic: Robbe u-47 (Read 31839 times)

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