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RC Equipment

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Welsh_Druid:
I would not go so far as to actually recommend a particular manufacturer but I will comment on the transmitters I have.

These are a JR Max 6 (aircraft use only) a JR X-3810 (aircraft and boats- using? interchangeable plug in frequency modules for? 35 & 40 megs) and a Robbe F14 twin stick for twin engined boats. All on FM of course.

I use a variety of receivers, JR, Futaba, Hitec, and GWS. All work with all Txs. Just ensure that the RX crystals are from the RX manufacturer.

However - the available range does vary. With the JR TX's I have never had any problem no matter how far away any models have been. The Robbe F14 is not as reliable. I find that maximum aerial length must be out on the F14 once the boat is more than 10/20 yards away, whilst the JR can have just a few inches out and still give good control even when the model is nearing the limit of sight (yes our lake IS that big :D)

Of course it may be the positioning of the RX aerial in the boats needing the twin stick controller but I dont think so, changing it has not helped. Maybe Robbe/Futaba TXs are not so good with other makes of Rx ? No problem with JR though.

What don't I like about the F!4 ? - The fact that you have to take the whole back off to change the crystal, the fact that it is so basic - for the same price other TX's have more switches already built in-? it has a very light, insubstantial feel to it,( I have had lots of problems trying to stop the aerial connection coming loose), it has no reversing switches on the outside of the case- once again you have to take the back off if you want to reverse anything- awkward if you are sailing two different layout models that day :(

But if you need twin sticks what alternative is there ??

Don B?

rats:
 The main things I dont like about the F14 are - as Welsh Druid has said - having to take the back off to servo reverse and change crystals: also its feels so cheap and plasticy ! Never looked at (or seen)  JR systems before they do look well made
   Flag-d  No problem using futaba eqiupment with Robbe - look identidal

                 cheers rats

Doc:
One alternative about 'removing the back' would be to move the switches and crystal socket.  That isn't exactly the easiest/simplest thing to do, but possible. 
 - 'Doc

PS - Being naturally greedy and lazy, please don't ask me to do the modifications! ... None of you are ~that~ silly anyway.

Welsh_Druid:
Doc

Why do I get the impression that you have not actually seen the inside of a Robbe F14 ?

There aren't any  servo reversing switches to move !   The leads from the various pots and switches ( if you have fitted any) plug into a row of sockets. These sockets equate to the various channels. In one way this is very convenient as it is so easy to alter the function of any lever or switch simply by plugging its lead into the appropriate channel socket.

To reverse the operation of any servo the lead is plugged into the socket the opposite way round. So to do what you suggest would involve removing all these eight sockets plus the socket for the crystal from the circuit board on which they are all soldered and somehow mounting them externally -  and then bringing all the leads out as well.

Nice idea - but totally impracticable I'm afraid.

Don B.   

Shipmate60:
I just dont like the width of the transmitter, feels like a coffee table!!
And the Navy twin sticks, YUK, too close together.

Bob

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