Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => DC Motors (Brushed) and Speed Controllers => Topic started by: jinks8 on January 15, 2007, 01:56:56 pm
-
i hope sumone out there can help for 2 Eng is it best to have 2 cons ruining on one Bat or 2 cons on Bat 2 batts or1 con on 1 Bat the model is HMS cossack 1.2 meters long
-
How many channels does your radio set have.
Bob
-
remot hitec laser 6
-
Go for 2 speed controllers on different channels.
Ch 2 and 3 I think.
Warships are not good at manouvering so using the shafts can come in very handy.
Bob
-
Go for 2 speed controllers on different channels.
Ch 2 and 3 I think.
Warships are not good at manouvering so using the shafts can come in very handy.
Bob
I personally always think using the left and right stick to power twin motors is a bad way to go. I'd always suggest (if budgets can stretch to it) a motor \ rudder mixer. The twin speed controllers and rudder servo plug into this and, when rudder is applied via one stick, the inward motor is slowed down making tunrs a lot smoother.
Using twin sticks for motors can cause a zig - zag effect as one motor \ signal combination will always be more than the other.
-
the setup i came up with is 2 s/c to bat joined to reserver by y lead one on power one slave not had boat in water yet ex for ballast (have to forgive me not to good at this computer lark ) so both engines run of throttle works dry so fare
-
The solution I have heard of recently (I think it was in MB - the recent Monitor article) is to have one speed controller with microswitches on the rudder linkage to stop the inboard engine on full(ish) helm.
Rick
-
Hi All
I personally think, before we give this gent any advice, we have to consider a few facts here:
The main one being the model - She is a destroyer, not the most stable/suitable of vessels for a newcomer to the hobby. They do roll alarmingly and the vessel can be quite 'hairy' at the best of times until one has their confidence built up for sailing her.
I therefore suggest we apply 'keep-it-simple' Kis method - one speed controller wired up to the motors in parallel and then any discrepancy between the motors can be taken up with the facility of the trim on the rudder channel.
When one has mastered this and has become fully competent on the model and its behaviour one will then be able to progress to the next stage - i.e. two speed controllers (one per motor) on independent sticks - when happy can then move on to the third stage of adding a mixer which, by this time, full confidence in the model and of one's own capabilities can bring out the best in the model - and also make most of the amount of money that has been spent.
I am a little wary, as I have a Hi-Tech focus 6 radio. I had a lot of problems using this transmitter with the mixer. When I queried all the manufacturers involved in the electronics - came to the conclusion it was just me MY LUCK WITH RADIO GEAR.
One manufacturer did come up with something that seemed logical and that is that the majority of handsets are originally made for the aircraft industry. The handset I own may have the facility for mixing on board the transmitter itself. This may be interfering with the mixer I was using.
Anyway, hope this is of some help. Happy modelling.
Aye
JOHN E
BLUEBIRD
-
thanks bluebird not totally new to sailing but total Nevis on electric side off things already have HMS snowberry jntje 11 it is you get so much info at once and not wrought down and from model shops sum could be just to get a bit more cash out of one hope it is not but you can never be shoer
-
For my money the best computerised mixer with a multi-channel radio set is the one supplied.
The one between your ears :)
Far more complex than any mixer.
But I do have to admit to only considering my first mixer soon on a 3 shaft model.
2 motors to a single ESC can have its own problems with starting together and one motor "robbing" from the other.
As long as both motors matched and the shafting is about the same "tightness" there shouldnt be a problem except for the turning circle.
Warships being long and narrow dont turn well.
I must admit to not having any rolling from the motors and under power she SHOULD be stable as long as ballasted reasonably.
I quite happily run mine on one shaft for cruising around and bring in the second for full power.
Bob
-
thanks lads will go for 2 stick set up for now if good wether tomorrow will try and let you all know how it went goodnight and sailing to all
-
This might help:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Electrics/Twin_motors.htm
The various wiring options are in the graphic at the top of the article.
-
went to pond to day put her on the water on Left&right stick think i will have to go to 2 bats got on not to bad a bit under powered pic could not get one under way i was by my self it is hard to tack pic's when togeling 2 stick's thanks FulllLeather Jacket that is a lot of hell but will go with twin stick's for now
-
hi there jinks8
glad you had a good day out at the pond - pic is a good one.
obviously she isnt performing true to form as a destroyer - lacking in the speed. You must just blame the lazy stokers down below decks they must have been having one too many tea breaks - I am sure the Captn will sort this out. But hey what do I know - as an old friend once said to another old friend I will go and find a stone to hide under right now and finish my planking and keep me clagger shut.
keep on sailing...
Aye
JOHN E
BLUEBIRD
-
jinks8
What motors, props and voltage are you running in her?
Bob
-
Bat sakura6-4.5 eng 4.8-12v have got 2 ni_cd sc1800mah 7.2 that will fit runs ok just seams slow props 3 blade pic
-
Lots of good advice different ways to do things.
Dont understand though why so many model boaters still use archaic methods such as micro switches to control motors when there are more modern reliable solutions available.
-
How slow?
You could up the voltage to 8.4 and try that, and if still too slow up the prop size.
Bob
-
Dont understand though why so many model boaters still use archaic methods such as micro switches to control motors when there are more modern reliable solutions available.
'Cos we can understand that - on/off - simple! ;D
-
thanks bob have 2 micros in mine 1 for smock 1 for spot light gos no and off and don't cost too much
-
Are you using Deans motors in her?
Bob
-
yes bob they came with kit am going to try 27.2 1800 see if it will work the add i am getting is good
-
Deans motors are really good, what size props are you using?
Bob
-
do not now props that came with kit could not get them balanced so went to shop sead to man got 2 off thees pleas in brass look the same as kit so stuck them on
-
Ok,
Try her on 8.4 volts first then.
Bob
-
all ready have 2 7.2's willgive them ago be for getting new if they up speed will bye 2 8v's
-
If it is a deans cossack and kondor motors in her i would not suggest you go over 6 volts in her. That power train will give you plenty of scale speed. if you overdrive a destroyer hull it will dry our amidships and become VERY unstable. Suggest you check everthing out first before you keep applying more power. it you get it wrong, the clearance between the keel and the lake bottom reduces rapidly.??
Happy boating
Ron
-
i only had 16 v in her had anther look at eng and power instrutions it rec 7.2 must have mist it first time round with 6v it is lick a puffer not a war ship