Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: John W E on November 11, 2011, 08:33:39 pm
-
Hi there, just started on me new built. It has taken me a while to get round to building this one - due to lack of correct plans. But, I have now received my plans from Maritime Museum verified as the correct hull lines, but not superstructure.
As you can see the model JUST first onto me work bench after having done modifications to the surrounding areas of the bench - couple of pics to show progress.
aye
john
-
Looking good John - what scale are you working to and what will be the LOA ?
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Ray
The model is 1/96 scale giving it a LOA of just under 72 inch long
aye
john
-
I will be watching with great interest, always fancied a WWII cruiser, Exeter or a Town Class being top of my list. Good luck with the build.
-
hi
very nice il be watching this with great interest
gary
-
A fascinating project, what wood are you using for the planking and did you cut the planks yourself, or were they pre-cut in width and thickness?
-
Hi all
Thanks for the compliments. The materials I am using for the build so far are:
For the ribs and keel - Birch 5-ply
planking material - used a variety of materials - the main one being 7mm x 1.8 mm lime-strip which I purchased from Mantura Models
the material for the bow knuckle radius was 1/16 square spruce so I could get the exact radius
The next stage in the build will be to give the hull a resin and tissue coat (send the good woman shopping %% %% ) Then I will smooth the hull and plate it with lithoplate or plasticard. I havent given it 100% thought yet what I will use for the plating though as I want more experiments,gluing the lithoplate to the hull
aye
john
-
Cracking job so far, if it turns out as interesting as your ASR diary, we'll be in for a treat watching it progress. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge. All the best Dan.
-
Plating the hull, have a look at my ( stalled ) build on SS Ohio. I used Filler between layered masking tape to simulate plating, might be worth considering.
Re: SS Ohio tanker build, Pedestal convoy.
« Reply #166 on: February 24, 2011, 06:26:17 PM »
-
Use thin Cyano feeding around the plates of litho after initially putting in place with a contact adhesive . If you want to see all my construction methods which could help then see my site Portfolio section
-
Hullo Bluebird.........just a question.......
The actual building board ....appears to be MDF with horizontal hull frame supports.......
This also appears to have other frame support securing drillings at different centers :o
I had not considered this . :embarrassed: ...but appears to be a universal building board..... :-)) .....Derek
-
As an aside, I was privelaged to read the official damage reports of Exeter after the Graf Spee action whilst I worked in Mod(N) at Bath, I was amazed at the detail of every hit they experienced, which meant that someone ( probably a junior officer) was plotting and logging everything throughout the action, what cool nerve this must have taken.
-
Hi there, just started on me new built. It has taken me a while to get round to building this one - due to lack of correct plans. But, I have now received my plans from Maritime Museum verified as the correct hull lines, but not superstructure.
aye
john
Well, been waiting quite a while to finally see this build get underway :o. Since we first started talking about Exeter, how many models have you built John %)
Mdu
-
Well, been waiting quite a while to finally see this build get underway :o. Since we first started talking about Exeter, how many models have you built John %)
Mdu
Hi mate hows you ?
models built hummm lets see aboot 500 O0 O0 {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
aye
john
-
Hi,
beautiful work on the hull! :-))
Bye,
Bernd.
-
hi all, thank you for the comments :-))
Been doing a bit more work on the hull; when I finished planking I filled all minor gaps and blemishes in the planking with P38 Easy Sand car body filler and I rubbed the hull down. Then I proceeded to give the hull a coating of Polyester Resin and a layer of tissue matting, which has had 2 extra coatings of resin on the top of it. This was allowed to harden for 2-3 days - and now - I am just about finished sanding down the hull and been demoted to the garage with me heater on - so work is a bit slower, but the dust is NIL in the house %% %% .
The next stage is to begin to plate the hull and here are a couple of shots - one of them is alongside HMS Ajax just to compare sizes. Both of these models are 1:96 scale.
Aye
john
-
Nice one matey. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
Whats up, Skype broken again ? (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
-
hi all
been doing a bit of progress on me hull - in the warm! taking me time, my son Andrew sprayed the hull for me with a grey filler plasticoat primer - and rubbed it down with wet n dry which revealed a few 'low' spots and 'pin-pricks' in the resin hulll which were backfilled with chip n dent repair stuff from Plastic Padding. Basically a very fine car body filler.
When all the areas were smoothed and faired up the next stage was to mark the hull up for the plate runs on the hull. I experimented with litho plate and although it was the correct thickness for the scale plating of the hull, it was difficult to distinguish between the inner/outer plate runs, even when I doubled up thickness on the outer runs of plating....so I have opted for using plasticard instead - 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm - for the plate thicknesses (although this is slightly over-scale - its giving the correct appearance) couple of pics....to show progress so far. Bonding the plasticard to the hull with grip- medium super glue
excuse me messy bench! touch of cba syndrome %%
-
Watching this one with interest John. The effect will be stunning, as I've done my Titanic this way and know it takes time. Every move will be pleasing and make you continue to the end.
It's then a pity to paint it. :} Watch the fumes !
Ken
-
couple of pics....to show progress of plating so far :-))
aye
john
-
Hmmmm-------not bad.
Happy new year mate, have tried phoning and Skype. {:-{
-
Hi update on the build time
Installed the running gear, prop shafts and 'A' frames and now installing the motors .
aye
john
-
hi there
Another update on my build.
Finished installing the motors and I had to do a slight modification - as the outer motors wouldnt fit exactly where I had planned them to fit. So, I will have to make 2 extension collars to fit over the outboard prop shaft - between the tube and coupling. Also, I have made and fitted the rudder and rudder servo - now busy putting the first lick of paint on the bottom.
This has given me a 2nd thought - was it worth plating the hull? cos up to now - its difficult to see where the plating is when I have put the paint on.
aye
john
-
Hi John
Thats a really nice looking model you have their :-))
Dave:)
-
I want more experiments,gluing the lithoplate to the hull
Hi John
Looking good - what will she weigh - just roughly?
I know you decided against litho plate, but had you gone with the idea, what glue/surface preparation would you have needed?
Regards Dave
-
Hi all
An update on the build 2 sub decks have been glued into place made from 1mm birch ply and on the sub decks the locations of the various superstructures and mountings drawn on constructed the Barbettes first from plastic card and these and associate ribs have been glued onto the sub decks. Now beginning to tedious job, of planking - this is for the die-hards out there who believe that all British Warships follow laid down rules in their design and build. Ive spent a lot of time studying photographs of HMS Exeter the life size real ship and can anyone see/tell me the 2 glaring differences here is the first one: according to the bibles Battleships of the British Navy of 9 12 width planks and cruisers have 6 9 wide planks have a look at the photographs which I have put and have a look at the width of HMS Exeter planks they must be in the region of 4 wide just compare the width of the guys shoes who is standing on the aft-deck average width of shoe is about 4 unless he has 6 wide shoes.
The next myth to be dispelled is that all ships have a space between the edge of ship and the wooden deck to allow the water to run into and then run overboard not on Exeter her marginal planks or her exterior width plank butts up against a wooden toe rail and that in turn butts up against a steel edge which in turn is flush with the outside of the ship.
Heres the planking I have done so far....
Aye
john
-
:-))
-
Hi John, hope you dont mind me asking, did you make the tapered ends on your propshafts, or are they something I could buy? Im building the Hatchette Hood and those tapered ends look the "business". Fantastic build, I've already picked up some ideas for finishing my Hull once its planked.
regards
Les
-
Hi Les
The prop tubes," A" frames and shafts are all homemade from standard materials bought - from EBay and machined using a lathe and electric drill
I think the firm prop shop supply similar shaped prop tubes and fitting http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/
aye
John
-
Thanks for the reply, checked out propshop, I see they do ww2 props, I will need 4 at nearly a tenner a piece plus vat and postage,
they also do the "A" frames. Better start saving my pennies!
Regards
Les
-
Planking lovely planking :o :o {-) {-)
As a friend said 'Dont look where you have to go, look where you have been {-) {-) {-) {-)
aey
john
-
Excellent John you old planker you. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/bowingsmiley.gif)
Nearly half way then ?
-
looks really good John :-)) :-))
-
hi all
just a quick update - guess what - I am still planking. I have finished the rear deck and now beginnning the front deck. One thing I have learned is that when using 0.5mm thick planking - to achieve a nice black line on the edge of the plank to assimulate the black caulking; I found it best to glue the plank in place and then with a black biro pressed firmly into the subdeck and the edge of the plank - draw the line then and this achieves less overspill of ink onto the top of the plank.
couple of pics here to show - how I am getting on :-) straight jacket next week I think %% %%
aye
john
-
Just like watching paint dry John.
Looks smart though. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/MOST_P1.gif)
-
Just found your build! congratulations,it is looking superb.If my build of HMS RAMILLIES looks even half as good as EXETER,then I shall be well pleased! Nice photos also.I wish my early photos were as clear.?I am not really a modeller,more of a muddler,so I am unable to make small fittings,and instead will rely on Haynes and Deans Marine fittings,which are excellent in their own right.I have just received a sample of Deans ready cut planking,and I will be using that.I wont be plating my model,as you say most of it disappears,and working out "stealer plates" is beyond me I'm afraid.I am going to keep a weather eye open on your build,I am going to learn a lot,so thanks for that.
Two queries for you please,which I can use on my build... What actual colour will you be using for the main hull,and will it be semi Matt or gloss?
And could you perhaps PM me with a diagram of how you do get the "caulking" effect on your deck planking please?
Your Ajax looks a wonderful build as well!
Cheers,
Mick
-
hi ya there :-)) :-))
here's a quick scribble to try and explain how I am achieving the assimilated black caulking between planks - process I use - cut the planks to length (several of them) and in this case - they work out 3" being equivalent at 1:96 scale which is approx 24 ft in real life size. The width of the plank is just under 2mm = to just over 6 - 7 inches broad. In real life its a bit overscale in width. The thickness of the plank is 0.5 mm. Working from the centre of the deck; out over towards the edges; I begin by laying what is known as a 'King plank' down the centre line. Between each joint of planks - I draw with a black biro pen on the edge of each plank so when they are butted together - end to end - you can see the black line between the planks. Then, when the planks have dried on the long edge of the row of planks; with the biro pressed hard into the edge and sub deck - draw the black line. Next stage is to glue the next row of planks which butt up against your first row of King planks - remembering to calculate the joint distances. Hope this explains a bit more :-))
-
I experimented with this method when I was planking HMS Nubian, however, I used a felt tip and as you can imagine I got ink bleed into the wood so I don't recommend a felt tip. A ball point is the way to go. Perhaps a soft sharp pencil might do a similar job?
-
Hey John,
Despite your modesty, she's coming on a treat - steady as she goes lad :-)) :-)) :-))
We had a very brief meeting on Sunday last but great to see you on your feet again - keep it up mate.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Thanks John,that certainly looks the way to go.I was planning to use thin card,between the planks but that would have been a mind blowing experience I think! Keep posting your progress.
cheers,
Mick
-
Hi again,
could I repeat my query as to what colour you will or have painted the main hull please? OK I know its grey,but there are so many variations out there I just don't know which brand,and shade to use? I was planning to use a semi matt shade .My build is for Atlantic colours,but I do not plan to use camouflage.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks.
I have posted this query previously,but again there were too many choices, so I thought a fellow British Warship builder would be able to supply the answer (I hope!)
Cheers,
Mick
-
Great to see that you build your models the same way as mine and Mermod with the hull upside down and fingers holding the frames in alinement this is so easy to plank and glass up glad some one is building the same tassie48
-
hi ya Mike
sorry for the delay but I was hoping that someone else would pick up the topic of colours of Warships in general.
This is one of those Grey areas - as a school of thought if we paint a model in the exact same colours as the life-sized one, depending on the scale of the model, it just doesn't look right.
the correct Greys look too dark; etc. So, a lot of us tend to use a bit artistic licence e.g. on HMS Exeter of 1939, when she engaged the Graf Spee - she would have been painted in a light grey for the southern hemisphere colours, which, according to White Ensign Co is RN03 - when you actually look at this, it looks like an 'off white' and just doesn't look right. I have done some research and several people have suggested that Humbrol 147 matt grey was a better representation; so this is what I am going with for the main - this will overcoated with clear satin varnish - along with the rest of the hull.
For the hull red, I used Humbrol Matt 70 but no doubt throughout the superstructure, I will vary the greys by adding a bit of number 64 to the 147 to either lighten it or darken it - to try and break up the bland appearance of an 'all grey' hull.
Hope this is of some help - hope too that it gives you some idea of what to expect. Sometimes its best to ask a question like this on the open forum and a variety of replies will come along and try these ideas out for yourself to see which suits you and your build.
aye
john e
-
Thanks for the reply John. It never rains but it pours so they say.... Humbrol don't look like they do a spray version of 147, and Revell don't do an equivalent either! Looks like my only option is to buy the little tinlets, but its going to take an awful lot of them!
Cheers
Mick
(think I will stick to lifeboats in future, at least I can get the colours needed for them!)
-
hi all
just a quick update
aye
john
-
see if I get the 504 timeout sign this time %%
Just to fill in the gaps, the main decks I have finished planking; and it has a good old drop of Ringtons (geordie) tea to stain the deck, along with 5 coatings of satin varnish - started work on the superstructures now - namely the 2 boiler casings and the aft superstructure; been using lipo plate to skin the aft superstructure; gluing it onto the plywood with superglue. Still not 100% sure of the adhesion of the lipo plate to the plywood - seems to peel off easily. I am going to leave it overnight and have a fresh think tomorrow - might remove it and use plasticard.
aye
john
-
Hi John, looking good! I like the tea tip for staining,do you think Lifeboat tea will do the job (lol emb etc etc) ?
When you say "lipo plate" do you mean Litho plate,by any chance? Superglue certainly does stick it, but please dont forget,that superglue is not supposed to be waterproof,so I can only assume it breaks down in time,if it gets wet (discuss?)
Cheers,
Mick
-
thanks mate lithoplate 100 times I will write - lol - no excuses >>:-( <*< >>:-( <*< %% %% %% %% :embarrassed:
anyway as far as waterpooring or even waterproofing is concerned of the superglue; many moons ago, back in the early 1980s I built meself the Moray Firth and I stuck all the plating on the hull with superglue - as yet nowt has dropped off - apart from me fingers when I went down the lake once on a cold day tstst anyway I find, as long as I give a good coating of paint to seal any joints between the plates, to prevent any water from getting in behind them, it seems to do the trick and the superglue hasnt deteriorated.
So I am hoping the same will apply to the lithoplate. The only thing I am doing is scoring the back of the lithoplate with coarse emery to give it a key. Did you see the other topic about scale painting?
aye
john
ps this is lithoplate Jim but not as we know it
-
thats good news my friend,as I use superglue a lot! yes thanks, I did see the other subject.been busy on Ramillies for the last couple of weeks as she is going up to Blackpool this weekend,to show the (small) progress to my good shipmates who served on her,The HMS RAMILLIES ASSOCIATION (got to publicise my website somehow !)
Mick
-
Goodness me, excellent build and building skills on show here!
Makes me embarrassed to say I call myself a 'model builder' after building the manufactured kits I buy compared to the scratch building on Exeter. :embarrassed:
-
Hi all just a quick update I have finished plating the aft superstructure with Lithoplate and quite happywith the results and the superglue is holding the plate on well.
Before I commence on the next deck level I have manufactured several fittings namely engine room air intakes and doors
aye
john
-
hi one and all
just a quick update on me build
finishing off the lower deck and the torpedo tubes and rails
now beginning on the bridge deck - more lovely planking to be done
This time though - we have a new member joining the Mayhem forum - nearly up to the right age to join anyway - but when wor Harry learns to type; he will be asking Martin for Mayhem Membership :-) He already knows how to get onto Mayhem
aye
John
-
just a quick update :-))
aye
john
-
Very nice John, so that is what you've been doing. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
-
Hi Dicky
Just an update for you mate this is the bridge as of now all the plating on the bridge is finished, and been doing a bit of brass work for the wind deflectors on the bridge front but this is my 3rd attempt at getting the bridge to look right :embarrassed: {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Aye
john
-
Hi Dicky
Just an update for you mate this is the bridge as of now all the plating on the bridge is finished, and been doing a bit of brass work for the wind deflectors on the bridge front but this is my 3rd attempt at getting the bridge to look right :embarrassed: {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Aye
john
Looks alright from down here John.
Can you Skype me tomorrow please ?
-
She's coming along nicely there John lad, steady as you go... :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
quicky updatey
thanks for the comments lads - been plodding on doing the structure for the aircraft catapult and also the aft superstructure - at the current time I am building the funnels and having a reet owld time with them. they are about 6 inches tall and getting then to look vertical and square, has caused me a right bit o hassel. The other problem is lithoplate ahhhhhhhhh and I have also tried this super dooper double sided tape/ sticks owt to owt you know - but I tell you what it doesnt like - the slightest bit of dust! blinking stuff.....couple of pics
aye
john
-
Very nice John, too busy to ring then ? >>:-(
-
Hi all
An update
Reached the stage now where there is loads of work but nothing to show
For all the effort put in
Finished making the two funnels
Well actually 3 funnels first one I wasnt happy with and scrapped it
Now I am building up the 8 inch gun director on top of the bridge
Aye
john
-
hi there
Just an update .... decided to do a bit of fine detailing on the upper bridge and also building and adding the bridge canopy - here's a couple of pics :-
aye
john
-
Very nice John.
By the way one of your voice pipes is not vertical, it is leaning over.
Catch you later. :-))
-
hi ya all
update time
Dicky I have sacked that Tynemouth fitter who put the voice tube on wonky :}
I have completed the main gun director; and also connected up the linkage so that when I instal the main guns it will rotate along with the main guns - also started on fitting the bow fittings anchor hawsers capstains and soforth
Also, fitting the rear bridge signal light platform
aye
john
-
Looking good John, looking GOOD. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi there
Just a quick update I have been working on the ships catapult and rear structure catapult is made from Evergreen Plastistrip angled and H section beams; along with bits of brass and general bits and pieces took forever to build the pair of them so they look right. The only thing I am questioning now, after reading another thread, is the colour of the deck.
I have been convinced by several people that the Tamiya colour FX79 (linoleum deck brown) is the correct colour/shade but I have my doubts now.
aye
john
-
Myself and Tosh would just like to go ...."ooooh, nice!"
:-))
-
Thats looking nice John, wondered what you have been doing, thought maybe your computer was busted. %)
-
I have been convinced by several people that the Tamiya colour FX79 (linoleum deck brown) is the correct colour/shade but I have my doubts now.
That looks like a good colour for the Cortiscene deck covering.
This is a type of linoleum used on a lot of upper decks of R.N, ships.
( An old E.R,A. told me once that they used it on the bridge areas, so that the officers didn't get "cold feet")
Regards
Richard :-))
-
Hi all
Thanks for the compliments and comments ;) I have one or two personal messages regarding the colour of the deck which I am contemplating using. Also, I have WhiteEnsign paint as well as Tamiya and I am GOING TO COMPARE and see which I feel happiest with :-))
Just to give myself a break from doing the endless DIY jobs I have on at the moment and the air intakes and....ventilators I decided to do some work on the bow, anchors & chains... no Dicky havent been away but have been spending time in the outside workshop looking after Boris the spider...pretending to be doing stuff and diy ya nar but really just been moving the dust aboot and enjoying mesel.
Aye
John @ busy dot netty
-
....So, Boris is using the "web" as well ! {-) {-) {-)
What a busy household you have.
Love that signature at the bottom of your last posting. :-)) :-))
-
hi all
Will try and repost some pics :-) as similar to other topics the last postings of mine seem to have followed Captain Kirk to boldly go where no man has gone before - into the depths of Mayhem Ciberspace never to be seen again......hope these lot arent on their way to oblivion.....so, couple of pics:
Battery box; brass connectors on the battery and the internal electrics - but now I have been concentrating on the funnels doing the boiler air intakes - and associated steam pipe work and also been making the spares lockers which straddle the forward funnel; not quite sure what was kept in this box, but originally spare floats for the Seaplanes were kept in this position - the original sea planes were the Fairey 11F and the Hawker Osprey - they were the 2 aeroplanes aboard her before the Walrus....beam me up Scotty.......how long will these postings remain on board.
aye
john e
bluebird
-
:-))
-
Hi update on the build time :-)) 8" guns
aye
john
-
A bit late for this build but I have just released the PE for the E111H catapult you built for Exeter .This item is JRH 889.
It is not yet loaded onto my shop but is available in 1/96
-
To quote a well worn cliche - Those gun turrets are "models in their own right". O0
Great looking woodwork there John - well done so far... :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
A real work of art.
-
Hi all just a little update not much progress really but I have managed to machine the barrels for the guns. Under normal circumstances using the outside workshop is a summer job but due to needs must I went in the shed. So, this is a thank you to Mr Haynes who supplied a set of barrels for me but sadly they needed too much alteration diameter wise to the barrels he supplied they were from one of his warships thank you again Hilary and Mr Haynes for your help.
Anyway the next thing is I found that mini servos I am using to operate the elevation of the barrels is very jerky the servo model number is TG9E TURNGY mini servos they judder a lot when operating, causing the barrels to bounce. Another problem to overcome.
Couple of pics J
Aye
john
-
have you tried a servo slow on them ?
you can adjust the speed that the servo moves at with them , primarilly used in aircraft undercarriage servos to give a realistic raise and lower speed
you can use 2 servo's on it
-
hi ya there Stormbringer
have a look at the top pic I have put on - on the top right hand corner - its a servo slower from Tecnobots - still no joy - even an ACTion servo slower doesnt do the trick.
aye
john
-
ahh right mate didnt realise it was a slow lol , i have 1 on my Airwolf undercarriage ( not that type tho ) and found theres a range of speeds it works great at but if i try to go slower it gets jerky
you arent by chance using helicopter tail rotor servo's ?
they tend to be a faster servo than the collective and cyclic servo's ( they may look exactly the same but will have diferant model numbers )
-
Hi there me old mate, are these the servos that Hobbyking reckon are Precise and jitter free ?
Looks like you might have to use proper ones.(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/Mail2.gif)
Nice job though. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
-
I have a servo that looks like that on the rudder in one of my models. Like yours, it is rather jerky in action in which case the servo slowers will not be effective. looks like you need precision ones as Dicky says.
Colin
-
hi there,
I have another couple of mini servos I am going to test out. I have just done a quick websearch on other Servos. Dicky can you send me a link to the precision servos that you tried to post - I can have a look at them as well.
My good wife has just told me (in her great wisdom) that I should stick to marine servos and not aero servos - help - she isnt right is she? :-)
aye
john
-
John,
Now you really are in trouble, if you have not learned SWMBO is Never wrong. %) %) %) {-) {-) {-)
-
Try here me old mate.
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/hitec-servos.htm (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/hitec-servos.htm)
Haven't found a link for a second mortgage yet. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
-
try this 1
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/hitec-servos.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/hitec-servos.html)
he missed the l out when he copy pasted it :-))
-
try this 1
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/hitec-servos.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/hitec-servos.html)
he missed the l out when he copy pasted it :-))
Bug*er, you are right of course.
Oh to be young again. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/doh-45.gif)
-
Thank you for the links :-)) :-))
worked it out - it would cost about £75 quid for three decent servos - yikes
But whilst medling about this affi I found that it was the actual barrels that were amplifying the jerkiness/bounce and by placing a small weight on the end of the gun barrels, it stopped most of the jerkiness. So, now I have to work out how to introduce some resistance to the barrel elevation mechanism. Even though the linkages are all neat and tight - so I know that aint part of the problem - oooo isnt modelling fun.
Think I may copy me wife and take up knitting <*< <*< %%
john aye
-
Think I may copy me wife and take up knitting
NOOO ! Don't do it John - I've seen some of your jumpers {-) {-) {-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Bug*er, you are right of course.
Oh to be young again. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/doh-45.gif)
lol i wish
im 54 O0
-
Thank you for the links :-)) :-))
worked it out - it would cost about £75 quid for three decent servos - yikes
But whilst medling about this affi I found that it was the actual barrels that were amplifying the jerkiness/bounce and by placing a small weight on the end of the gun barrels, it stopped most of the jerkiness. So, now I have to work out how to introduce some resistance to the barrel elevation mechanism. Even though the linkages are all neat and tight - so I know that aint part of the problem - oooo isnt modelling fun.
Think I may copy me wife and take up knitting <*< <*< %%
john aye
Seems like you may have to replicate the real thing to some degree.
Guns, have a breech which is heavy, at the rear, and if not sufficient in weight to counterbalance the length of barell, then additional ballast weight is added to "balance" the barell making it easier to elevate or depress.
Without getting into levers and fulcrums the further the barrel end is from the pivot point (trunnion) the more weight, heavier breech, is required to counterbalance it.
-
Think I may copy me wife and take up knitting
Word of advice, woollen ships tend to shrink and lose their shape. :}
-
Quick update on Exeters guns.
Hi ya, reduced the judder on the barrels tremendously, did this by adding side cheeks of thin ply either side of the barrels round about where the pivot point is. Now quite happy with them after much trial and error trying to synchronise the turning and lifting of the barrels.
That is mainly to do with electronics now so in the process of building the outer shielding of the turrets. This is from 1:32 ply which will either be sheathed in Lithoplate or very thin plasticard.....
Hey ho....
Aye
John
-
ho ho ho happy Christmas, got ya thought I would get it in first hahaha
finished making me 8 inch main aramament for me Exeter
Covered the exterior of the gun mounts with 1/64 thickness plywood and then applied very thin plasticard - which was embossed with rivet detail which I did with the old alarm clock cogwheel :-)
Moving on to make a few more fittings, such as the crane - couple of pics
hey hoSanta is on his way
aye
john
-
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Christmas/kntreelight1.gif) Happy Christmas to you John.
Nice guns.
Can you Skype me tomorrow please ?
-
Hi there all just a quick update:
Starting to add more detail now and a few fittings around the bridge area. I have used/using John Haynes brass etched stanchions at 1:96 scale for all the upper work fittings along with 0.5 round brass rod for the rails.
Couple of pics so far
qaye
john
-
Excellemt John. you are really bringing the old ship back to life.
Colin
-
really coming on now :-))
-
A really nice model there John - coming along very well
Geoff
-
Brilliant work there. The guns look great. :-))
-
Hi all
Just a quick up date its taken me a while to get back into modelling, cos I feel like we lost someone and it knocks the wind out of the sails for a bit, I am sure you know what I mean. I have started doing my model again. Begun making the funnel canvas cover caps made them from brass wire 05 and soldered with soft solder, found the best way for doing this was to actually draw the shapes out required on a bit of paper stick the paper with cellotape to a bit of half inch thick balsa wood and pin the pieces in place over the top of the paper drawing and then solder. Also have done more work on the funnels as the ladders for the siren platforms also the rear funnel search light platform. Next.....starting to build the crane this is made from 1.2 mm styrene angle from Plastistrutt aye john e...
-
:-))
more pics
-
I am still well impressed with this build.I have gained so much knowledge from it.I just wish I had the skill to replicate it!I have made quite a bit of proress on my Ramillies, but as I hardly put my models on the water,I am using card of various types and thicknesses,like corn flake and weetabix boxes.I will overcoat this with varnish or other material,to give it some degree of water resistance.I just hope it doesnt warp!
Mick F
-
hi ya well its taken me a day and a half to clean the dust off me model .... aye .... started where I left off, building the aircraft crane. Ive been making the base unit - its all made out of plaststrip angle and H bar - some pics just to get the build back under way.
aye
john
-
Hi Mate
Nice to see you have started on the Exeter. It really looked great on the build bench. when I popped over. Me I've just finished the helicopter deck railing pics in mail tomorrow..knackered
Martin
-
Hi Bluebird
Good to see you back, hope you are well.
Your work, as always, is fantastic, I'm studying your build of the crane/derricks so I've got a clearer idea how they look, a thank you for now if I copy some of your ideas :}
Looking forward to your next instalment.
Best regards
Nick B
-
So nice to see you back. Just like old times. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Ken
-
Count me in - great to have you back John, hope you've kept your passport up to date (the one that gives you access to the NORTH of the Tyne) {-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Always look forward to your posts :-))
-
cheers lads for the welcome back - what is they say - owld pigeon always find way home :-)
Ray I will have to have my passport restamped for the North side :-)
Nick B when I was doing some research for the crane for Exeter I found it was modified about 3 times or so she had weights added to her when she took on the Walrus' and then she seemed to have side plating added to her which wrapped around the sides of the crane base up until her refit after the battle of the River Plate in 1940 when side plating seems to have been removed and more weights added to her. Before I started building the crane, I had a good look round to see if anyone manufactured one and the closest I could see was the one John Haynes does, but even that would have needed modification.
Aye,
John
-
hi just finished the crane, and adding the side plating and the rigging just a few more bits of touch up paint work to start and then that will be finished. Now moving on the after search light platform and surrounding area. First job is to make three galley stove chimneys from various plastistrut tubing of about 1/16 diameter or was it 3/32 lads? Have you noticed, I am busy trying out a product from GamesWorkshop supplied from my son from his Warhammer models, its called Liquid Greenstuff - its a filler - very much like a very thick paint, water soluble and its ideal for filling in small joints and leaving it for about an hour and you can sand it. So now I will need to purchase a new bottle for my son - well worth a try. Couple of pics to show me progress :-)
aye John
-
hi ya all just a quick update; started on the rear superstructure and the searchlight platform. Fitted the saluting guns, 2 either side and also handrails, ladders and a winch drum which is protruding out of the superstructure side. No doubt this winch drum would have been used for hauling the awnings up on the aft deck and cable work - but - I bet it claimed a few sailors kneecaps when they walked around the deck unaware of it sticking out of the bulkhead. I include a photo where Sir Winston Churchill boarded the Exeter after her battle with Graf Spee and you can see the officer leaning over the drum.
aye
john
-
hi ya
time for another update
moving on to build the motor launch and sailing cutter boat framework supports; originally I was going to make these so they lifted off with the top superstructure; but realised they would become very vulnerable whilst moving the top half of the superstructure around and also that they would be pretty flimsy - so I decided to fasten them to the deck and side bulkhead on the model - but - to give them some strength I made a sub frame out of brass road and brass sheet - the brass rod was 3/32 diameter and the brass sheet was 3/32 x 1/32 thick. The holes were marked off along the deck so the brass rod could be glued in place and then the cross beams fitted at the top to corresponding notches cut into the side walls and the cross beams were soft soldered into place to the brass bar. Then, using 0.5 plasticard strip I encased the brass, gluing it with superglue. Then the actual boat chocks were made from 0.5 mm plasticard and glued into place. Next stage - throw a bucket of paint over :-( and move onto the next jobby doing the other side.
I will come back later on to produce the davits for the gig boat - as I feel if I put them on now, I am more than likely to knock them off with me clumsy hands - as I am building the rest of the model.
hey ho.
aye
john
-
That seems like a good solution for the ships boats - will the boats be rigged to come away with the superstructure or will they be unhooked from the davits and left on the chocks ? - just curious mate ok2
Regards,
Ray.
-
hi ya Ray
With a bit luck, the boat should remain on the boat chocks as the Davits are located on the hull sides, so all the rigging should stay intact. But, now I am looking at it, with the width of 2 of the motor launches, it may cause a bit of a problem - now you have mentioned it {:-{ put that down to sort out at a later date, :-) .
At the moment I am busy building the chocks for the portside boats.
How are you getting on with your model, I have been watching the build, looks good.
aye
John
-
Just little bits 'n bobs John - PM sent :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
hi just a quick update; havent done much due to the fact I have been trying to salvage what is left of me transmitter batteries and Gell cells and Nicads. With me taking that short break away from me hobby - neglect crept in. Consequently, when I come to check on the batteries, several of them we deed as dornails and had to be binned :-/ - so been charging, cleaning etc. the batteries and general maintenance, coffee, electricals, coffee, tea etc., amazing how things can deteriorate when not watching them and how cold the teas and coffees go :-)
Been doing a bit on the 4lb side guns - assembling them and now ready to paint along with the rest of the lifeboat chocks.
aye
john
-
hi ya all, just a quick update - I am still doing the life boats and Davitts - going to solve the problem of the rear deck removal by moving the lifeboats on either side out by about 3 mm. This should give me enough clearance to enable me to lift the deck that contains the aircraft catapult off to enable access to the switches and motors. Couple of pics.
aye
John
-
It's a really lovely model John. Keep up the good work.
Colin
-
The davits look real. Smashing job there young man. :}
Ken
-
Hi all
Thanks for the kind comments and time for an update.
Been doing the Davits and the boats for the portside now and a bit of the rigging on the blocks. I was trying to think of a way of manufacturing the large Carley Floats and I think I have come up with an acceptable way of making them for anyone interested and I have made them from Milliput. The way I have made them was make meself a small rolling board up with 2 parallel strips of wood glued to it - the wood that is glued to it is the same thickness/height as the Carley float ring. Next thing I made was a balsa wood male mould of the correct diameter and dimensions of the internals of the Carley float.
I mixed the Milliput together as per instructions and rolled out a long parallel sausage using the rolling board and a piece of flat ply over the top resting on the two parallel bits of wood which produced a parallel sausage. This sausage was then wrapped around the male balsa wood insert, trimmed to size and left to dry. The only thing I found was I was a bit inpatient and I tried to pop out the insert before the Milliput was totally dry and it distorted a couple of the Carley floats.
The internal flooring of the Carley floats is just styrene strip glued underneath the Carley float and I am also using thread to do the lashings around the float.
aye
John
-
John
It's a fine looking model. :-))
Can I ask, what are you planning to use for rigging, rope, etc? I'm at that point now and have to chose from 'Egyptian cotton' thread, brass or copper wire or black fishing twine.
All have good and bad points.
-
Guys....may sound crazy....but mono filament dental floss for teeth is worthy of consideration
1. it is immensely strong (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/Smileys/Tug/smiley.gif) ...you would cut your fingers OFF prior to shearing a single strand
2. comes as a flat or roundish strand profile
3. has the quality of ZERO stretch
4. will accept solvent based TEXTA colours ...so a multitude of shades can be achieved....... (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/Smileys/Tug/rolleyes1.gif) ......Derek
-
I use black fishing line , readily available on-line
-
For the finer rigging you could also consider the thread used by anglers to tie flies; there is also a fine wire used to tie flies, both availbale in black. A good source is an Orvis store.
-
Thanks chaps.. will look at the fly-tieing line.
The dental floss idea: that sounds similar to PTFE tape plumbers use. That goes 'strandy' when it's abused.
-
hi ya there
With regard rigging threads; I use several items - some are from Billings threads and I also use a thread which I have from my dad which he used to use for whipping the loops onto fishing rods with - I am not sure what type of thread it is but it's got a 'silky wax' feel to it and it doesnt take the superglue too well. I also use very fine copper wire on certain parts of my builds, such as for crane wires and things but I have just sent off for some black fishing line and I am going to try that as well. I used to use the old beeswax over the normal thread trick (to prevent the hairs ont thread as well) anyway, apart from that....
the Exeter build; I have finished the Carley floats and mounted them and now I am on making the boat booms which protude from the side of the ship next to the bridge.
aye
John
-
Stunning build, John: I'm loving every minute. :-))
Andy
-
Just fantastic build. Look forward to each update.
-
A very fitting tribute to the real thing.Superb.
Mick F
-
Absolutely stunning - a really informative build read, and what a piece of work!
-
hi ya there
With regard rigging threads; I use several items - some are from Billings threads and I also use a thread which I have from my dad which he used to use for whipping the loops onto fishing rods with - I am not sure what type of thread it is but it's got a 'silky wax' feel to it and it doesnt take the superglue too well. I also use very fine copper wire on certain parts of my builds, such as for crane wires and things but I have just sent off for some black fishing line and I am going to try that as well. I used to use the old beeswax over the normal thread trick (to prevent the hairs ont thread as well) anyway, apart from that....
the Exeter build; I have finished the Carley floats and mounted them and now I am on making the boat booms which protude from the side of the ship next to the bridge.
aye
John
Whipping thread is obtainable in many colours from fishing tackle shops,usually on a cotton reel or a card.When using it on a rod,it is usually sealed with a clear cellulose dope.B e warned that the colours do "bleed" on the cheaper threads. Gudbrod, used to be a very good make
Mick F
-
Hi all, just a quick update.
I have now begun fitting the railings; and I am using John Haynes' photo etched stachions at 1:96 scale; for the upper works and I am using James Laing stanchions for around the main decks. The reason for the difference (i.e. using the 2) is that James Laing stanchions are slightly thicker/stronger and can take a little bit of knocking which generally happens around the main deck - whereas John Haynes' stanchions are very fine and dont take much bending. (Just from experience :-) ) I am also using for the upper works 0.45 mm brass rod - that is to go with John Haynes fittings and for the railings on the main decks I am using tinned copper wire brought from Ebay %% what I will do is I will cut off about 18 inches of wire and stretch it between pliers. The wire is 22 swg guage and easily soldered and also I will put a picture on off the threads which I have obtained to do the main mast rigging. Also the fishing line.
aye
john
-
:-)) cheers lads for the kind comments :-))
aye
John
-
As ever stunning work.
-
Your making a cracking job of her John pleased your feeling better; :-)) Im trying to get motivated but its taking some doing.
-
Hi All
I have been asked how I fit the railings and stanchions i.e. what methods I use.
I use several methods - depending on the particular shape/where the railings are going to be fitted.
When I am fitting the railings around the outside of the ship; I tend to mark the spacings of the stanchions onto the deck and then predrill all of the holes by hand, not with a machine, but with a jewellers drill. I then make up a small plywood jig to the correct height of the stanchions and beginning at the middle of hull approx. and working from the centre out to either the bow or stern place each stanchion into the predrilled holes but not gluing them. Then I fit the top rail in first and with this in position through all of the stanchions; with my plywood jig, I set the height of the rail all the way along.
Then with a dab of superglue on a pin, I will then apply it to where the stanchion meets the deck on each rail, holding the rail firmly.
When the glue has dried, I can rectify any of the stanchions which are not sitting vertical. When I am happy I will put the 2nd rail and then the 3rd rail in through the stanchions.
When I have completed the first half I go to the 2nd half of the hull.
....
The 2nd method I use - is where say we have 2 right angled bends in the railings; the procedure here is - I will bend the first railing/wire to the correct shape - use that as a pattern to bend the 2nd 2 rails the same shape. Then - feed on the amount of stanchions which are required onto the 3 rails. Next stage is to mark off on the model where the stanchions are to fit and then drill. Then, its a case of 1 at a time fit the stanchions into the correct holes. When I am happy with that - again I set the height of the stanchions with my plywood guage and with a dab of superglue I secure them.
.....
The 3rd method I use is when there is complicated shape/s. This method I dont usually use that much - however, it is basically - I draw out the plan view of the shape of the railings I require on a piece of A4 paper. This plan is 1:1 scale. This A4 paper is then secured to a piece of plywood of the same size - half a inch thick plywood. Then I mark off the spaces of the stanchions on the plan view and drill holes of the correct diameter for the stanchions. I bend 3 pieces of wire to the correct shape of the plan I have drawn. The next stage is to mount the stanchions onto the wires and then mount the stanchions into the holes that have been drilled into the plywood.
Set the correct height and then with either super glue or solder, secure all of the stanchions to the rails.
I then remove the stanchions and the paper from the board, trying to keep the paper in one piece and where I have drawn the line on the paper trim the paper to about 1/4 of an inch of the line you have drawn. ~Then place this paper template on the superstructure in the position that you want the railings and mark through with a pencil where all the holes are for the stanchions. It is then a case of removing the paper template and drilling through where you have marked. Glue the readymade stanchions in place then.
The other thing I sometimes do is, if you look on a lot of warships present day and old times, some of the railing stanchions have a support leg/s and this I do by using an off cut of railing wire, I flatten one end and bend it to about 30 degrees. Place this on the deck and again the rail I want to support and solder in place. Then trim to length. With havin the wire longer, it is easier to hold whilst soldering.
Last but not least, anyone building a scale model - be careful. Originally, I took the spacings for the railings from the plan which I have (these are the builders plan for HMS Exeter) - on the builders plan the spaces were all even and worked out at about 7 ft between stanchions, but when I scrutinised a lot of photographs I came to realise that there were very few railings which were equally spaced - they all seemed to vary between 3 ft apart (depending on where they were) and 7 ft.
Couple of pics, just to show progress on the railings and stanchions.
aye
John
-
%)....come on bluebird.....what does this mean?..... Derek
20
/-
-
Our Harry the cat just jumped on the keyboard Derek hahah
anyway....see above.
-
hi all,
just a quick update. finished off the majority of the railings and now on the home run, starting on the masts and rigging.
the masts were made from 5mm dowel, tapered using the owld drill and sandpaper method.
Also using a manual for seamen from 1929 to help with the rigging.
aye
john
-
hi all just a quick update
Begun on the actual rigging itself now and using the fishing line trace for the mast rigging along with 1 mm diameter beads to represent the blocks and pulleys in the rigging and by it aint half a tiring job on the owld eyeballs %% Also you will see I have completed the Walrus Seaplane, this came from the John Haynes' stables - quite a nice model - it lends itself, if you want it to, for a lot of super detailing. I just stuck to the basic kit :-)) = on a funnier side you know you are tired and your have sore eyes when you spend 1/2 an hour rigging the mast up, tying it off nice and neatly at the top and then cutting the wrong bit of thread off - so instead of cutting off the excess you cut the line off between the mast and the deck - ah well begin again :}
Couple of pics.
aye
John
-
Very impressive John, very impressive :-))
You've gone to a lot of trouble just to have somewhere to store your paintbrushes though {-) {-) {-)
(see photo 3 - funnel - in latest posting).
Seriously though - looking forward to seeing this one in the flesh, so to speak. O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
%% %% {-) {-) Trust an eagle eyed Tynemouth Rivet counter to spot that Ray %% %% that chimney sweep got a hell of a handful of chimney brushes hahahh - aw that has cheered me up Ray, I hadnt noticed.
aye
john
-
Cracking work. I love it.
Andy
-
A great model from a master builder. Well done. :-))
-
Superb model, which museum is going to exhibit in, too good to be put in water.
-
Awesome........
-
Fantastic model, puts me to shame.
-
Early spring launch is it ??
Nice one mate hope to see it in early summer when I pop along
martin
-
well lads, thank you all very much for the kind compliments, they are very much appreciated. Now HMS Exeter is now finished, the rigging is complete as far as I want to take it - and 2 things I have to do now is find a nice place for it to live amongst me stuff in me room and secondly get its bottom wet - that will be early spring when I can get me son to come with me lift it, and the weather gets nicer :-)
Caution for those who are building warships with revolving turrets - ensure that all your deck furniture e.g. railings, awning stantions are clear of the barrels when the turret rotates - cause when I was sailing the high seas and fighting the Graf Spee in me imagination turning the turrets etc., I forgot about the stantions and as the barrels revolved they were in low position and it wiped out a few of them. Bent them to peculiar shapes and it took me while to straighten them back out.
Couple of pics to follow.
Aye
John
-
:-)
-
bluebird....have been watching this thread since the first day.......you are making a brilliant job :-)) ...congratulations .........
Whilst I have not researched the vessel class.......she appears to have a relatively small upper bridge viewing area looking FWD....but the a huge amount of lower bridge looking both port & stdb & AFT :o
Please keep the progress images on line.........Derek
-
That's smashing John. :-)) Well done.
Keep us posted on the launch.
Ken
-
I wont even bother to think of any words to put down on how good this looks. I would struggle to come up with any words that do it justice!!
-
Capital ships definitly make the best subjects for models as Iron Duke and Magnificent also show. Your Exeter is a beauty John. I read through the entire topic over the last few 'pooting' sessions and have been enthralled by the quality and sharpness of build, the interesting and educational tips you have demonstrated and the patience demonstrated throughout.
Spiffing cruiser!
Just a thought John. Could you add something to the turrets or servo to raise the barrels slightly when they traverse across the railings? To save your rails when the Graf Spee does invade your 'Man Cave'???
-
Thank you very much for the comments. Been a bit since I looked at the Exeter - it still needs it bottom wetting which will be very soon.
Bit of a saga about the guns though - the rear gun elevation servo went off with a bang and it is virtually a full strip down of the gun to get to the servo! Rather than dismantle the whole gun, I pre-set the barrels to an elevation which clears the deck stanchions etc. and disconnected the electronics for all guns elevations. Still traverse but do not elevate now and the maintenance crew have gone on strike about it - making quite a noise about it they are!!!!
Aye
John
-
Nothing short of fantastic. Makes me want to give the hobby up, puts my limited skills to shame. I can't wait to see her maiden voyage. Thank you Bluebird.
-
To be honest John, I have considerd the elevation of guns for future models and decided to restrict mine to traverse only ans that I do not have the same heart rending issues you have.
I learnt from your woes that after much effort in building turrets, you do not want to have to crack them open to fix the problem, or make really complex turrets with removable parts.
An option for fully mech turrets is to have the elevation servo and gear in a compartment underneath the turret that rotates with it, then everything is easy to access and possibly even sealable if the basket is tubular with a rubber or plastic cap?
I hope your Beauty is water borne soon, any chance if a short Youtue clip of her sailing?
-
Hi yas
2014 when I finished this model and today she had her first sail :-) sailed perfectly and here are some pics :-)
-
Hi John, she looks very regal on the water, the heel on the turn looks just right, just wondered where you sailed her, I don't know if I mentioned it But I lived in South Shields when I was a lad I seem to recall a park with a pond near the beach but that was a very long time ago, anyway You must be justly happy with her.
Joe.
-
Well done John, she looks great on the water just as she does on the bench.
For the record I finally finished my fishery cruiser Brenda a week ago. I will put up a pic or two when we return from touring around Scotland next week. ( Together with pics of the puffer Vital Spark which we saw a few days ago)
Colin
-
Hi Joe
thank you for your kind comments - yes South Shields Marine Park Lake will be the one you remember - its near South Shields Sea front - that is where I sail and where the model boat club is :-)
Colin, thank you for your comments - for once this was a dream of a model to sail - the only ballast I needed were the 2 batteries. I was a bit wary of putting the model into the water due to the detail that can be easily bent/knocked off. But, for once, as I say a dream model - she sailed absolutely perfectly. Quite an unreal atmosphere, as she sailed across the lake. Wasn't too fast. I was only going to put the model in, take some pics and that was that, but ended up sailing the model for a good half an hour or so - nice stable model to sail. Very happy with it. Cant find any hidden 'quirks' with this one. The actual ACtion mixers worked a treat. Turned on a sixpence.....must have had them set right.
Now, I am going to source some gun sounds - I don't want any other - maybe a siren sound and couple of gun sounds. :-)
John
-
Hi John, I thought that might be the place, parks and lakes seem to last while other areas/estates etc. get rebuilt over the years, if you're going for sound you must get a whooper, I know they are mainly destroyers but I love that sound.
-
I do like a cruiser and your model is gorgeous :-))
-
Great to see her finally make it to the watta John - I'll have to arrange a visit to your lake sometime ower the summa to see her in the flesh, so to speak - if I can remember where I put me passport...
The model looks the business John - well done mate. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
She is a fine model and a credit to you. Well done... I'm envious.
p.s. did the jackstaff take a bash?
-
John She really looks splendid on the water, now what is the next project
Geoff
-
yes the jackstaff tried to move the car seat itself :-) soon mended no worries :-)
Geoff, the next project has been on-going for a few year - I began this a few year ago - but I couldn't make the openings in the bulwark look right - so, I put the model to one side and left it. About a month ago, I came to the decision to strip the whole top off; to take the decks and everything off - scrap it and re-build it which I did do. This is where I am up too at the moment - she is built from Jim Pottinger plans and this one is MV DUBURG :-)
john
-
John that's going to be a nice looking ship, I do like the lines of this type of hull with the flared bow and rounded stern, hope you do her own build log if so I'll follow with interest.
Joe
-
Amen. We will need more Hobnobs though!