Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: wallace on August 09, 2011, 10:05:16 am
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Started my new build in June 2011 and to get you all looking again here are a few photo's the first ones are whats in the kit which My girls got me for xmas 2 years ago and for £525 it should be all gold in the kit you dont even get white metal prop's .
wallace :-)) :-))
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hi wallace,
was begining to think you had forgot it was in the cupboard.
good luck on the build
pat
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Hi Pat just wanted to keep all waiting :-)) :-)) will post the first bits asap. wallace
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The first bit of the build is about the stand >:-o >:-o the stand that comes with the kit would not last 2 minutes down at the lake and would not take the weight I put it together for everyone to see and have just left it will sometimes use it maybe during the build.
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These next few photos are about my idea of a stand nice and strong as you can see by the photos its about 10mm thick and I done it longer than the thin one in the kit,and you can get your hands under it to carry it with the model onboard.
It took me around 4 weeks to do as I was not happy with the first one that I done so its got to be A1 OK to me as it may be the last one that I do ?? it took a lot of rubbing down and all the corners I put two coats of primer ie wood stain and then after a very careful rub put three coats of varnish rubing down between coats just the name plate to go on and protection where the hull sits,will not use it untill the model is ready will use the old one,
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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well this was the first cock-up drill a hole for the A frame to sit in but after playing around with bits I had the A frame up the wrong way fill sanded and all is ok now.
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If the model turns out as good as the stand, then we are in for a treat
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Thanks for the kind words about the stand as for the build i can only do my best ,and my best is to build the resolve better than my last model being the Sir Lancelot.
wallace :-))
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here I am testing more bits and seeing how they fit A frames lining up with the prop tubes holes .
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fixing the A frames to the stern but before I did the big fix I drill two holes at the bottom of the hull and through the skeg this i did to make it abit more secure,so as you can see I drilled through the skeg and into the hull fixed two brass 1mm wire super glued into hull and when i was ready and happy with the alignment i mixed epoxy glue to give it more bond and for strengh,so the bottom of each A brackets were fitted into the slot between the hull and the skeg just before it went off put tape on to hole in place took tape off after 10 mins and put the hull to one side for 24 hours as you can see the propeller tube is all in place but I have not fixes it into place to stay as of yet untill I get my motors etc,and also I want to clean up the hull.
Well you are all upto date as the last bit of build was done on tuesday 9th Aug 11
wallace :-)) :-))
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Forgot the final photos of the A frames and skeg all fixed together.
wallace ;)
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That is a tidy piece of engineering Wallace. Well done for making it look so neat. :-))
ken
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This is the start of building the inside of the hull these three photos are the parts = Deck camber beams x 5 = mid deck bulkheads x 2
and the 2 longitudinal stringers.
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Putting the deck camber beams the longitudinal stringers together to see if all fits.
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After the trial fitting I set about fixing the parts together and I used PVA waterproof glue to jion together when all done I will when set redo with Epoxy resin for added strength.
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Cutting the 12mm x 12mm into lengths of 325mm to fit into the notches on the edge of the deck bulkheads.
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Showing the parts all together and held with tape and must be at 90deg to each other as you can see all my levals etc just hope I have it right will leave all now for 24 hours to dry and set. :-)) :-))
wallace
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A few photos of me filling and sanding the top of the hull all the way around I fill with car body filler leave to go hard then sand with 180 grade and it always needs abit more to fill the holes etc then back to sanding and i always sand using just my hands as you can control your own speed upto now the grade of sand paper is 400 and when Im happy I will use 1200 grade so its like a baby bottom I only fill the hull on and above the ships upper decks so it all looks great for painting under the decks the hull is clean up and then painted white. wallace :-)) :-))
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:-)) :-)) The photos are about getting things right but it was not me this time I did follow the drawing to the tee,but it did not look right so after a week of looking and playing around with the deck I desided to undo the back end of the internal stringers
I am showing you the layout of the bulkhead etc and you can see the numbers are all wrong I re-number the bits and bingo it has worked there is a few more errors I have found have told the makers so hopefully anyone who buys the Resolve all is well. Sorry for the errors. wallace :-)) :-))
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So after re-doing the frame the right way I added the bits for the servo tray once again I have only glued together with PVA wood glue I will be adding epoxy resin when I am happy all is well. wallace :-)) :-))
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Dry fitting the frame into the hull to mark around the height of the deck which will be 14mm fore-deck and 17mm aft deck from the top of hull. wallace :-)) :-))
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A picture says a thousand words, excellent hints and tips in the photographs and a very tidy build.
It may just be me, but I find models most interesting 'in build', probably explains my lack of completed projects!!
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The photos are about the running gear ie the Coupling unit, Plain coupling insert 1/4", Plain coupling insert 4mm, X 2 of each,
the motor mounts which are made out of 5mm plywood and later photos will show how strong the mounts are for the motors,also the prop 4 blade L/H 60mm and also the R/H 60mm.
The photos show how the parts go together and what they look like before they go into the hull.
The mounts will be stained and varnished before fixing inside the hull and all will be dry fitted to see how it all looks before the final fix.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Mounts are very neat and well made Wallace, but humour an old man, why make them when they are a few pence off the shelf ?
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HI THERE Wallace they are extremely neat and well-made - they are a credit to you my friend. It is amazing what one can achieve with a few minutes of your time and a bit patience.
To answer you Dicky, these mounts will be six times stronger than the ones commercially available, have a look and you will see Wallace has incorporated side-webs to support the front mounting plate, to prevent it flexing. Sometimes the commercially available ones, especially steel or aluminium ones dont have. A Far superior mount all around. Especially when he has made it himself :-))
aye
john
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But to digress as Dickey has asked why??
There are commercial mounts available, which are infinetly far stonger than the ply ones, even with the return brace panel. O0 O0
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But to digress as Dickey has asked why??
There are commercial mounts available, which are infinetly far stonger than the ply ones, even with the return brace panel. O0 O0
My point precisely :-))
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maybe the true answer is that he can make a better motormount than the commercially available ones - cheaper and he has the skill to make them which he has and those that are asking why obviously don't have the skill or knowledge make them? O0 O0 plus the money he has saved making his own he now can spend on some other fitting
:-))
aye
john
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But to digress as Dickey has asked why??
There are commercial mounts available, which are infinetly far stonger than the ply ones, even with the return brace panel. O0 O0
Bit unsure that 'infinitely' is a good description, a well made plywood motor mount for this type of motor should be more than strong enough. With a coat of woodstain and varnish they would enhance the inside appearance of any model. Carry on. Pride in your build shines through. Dont forget to line up all your screwheads though!!
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I didn't say Wallace was wrong and I didn't want to start a discussion [argument] I was just curious. >>:-(
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I'm fairly sure it is just a discussion.
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I didn't say Wallace was wrong and I didn't want to start a discussion [argument] I was just curious. >>:-(
Me too, and when lining up screw heads, with the grain or the longest run? %) %)
Phillips head are easy, as they just have to all be the same, but slotted screws well ?? %% %%
Back on topic, Wallace looking good. :-)) :-))
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But to digress as Dickey has asked why??
There are commercial mounts available, which are infinetly far stonger than the ply ones, even with the return brace panel. O0 O0
Only one true answer here... Personal Satisfaction , Why Buy when you can build it.. Smart looking brackets those. :-))
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and when lining up screw heads, with the grain or the longest run? %) %)
Longest run, always. Bad habits picked up over years, ask any of our club members. They try to hamper my OCD with crossheads, but I will take them out and replace with nice slotted brass ones..
Keep up the good work.
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more on the motor mounts with the motors fixed to the mounts to see how they line up.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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More about the motors and prop shafts and how they are sitting inside the hull on the base which is around 2mm ply which will be stained and varnished and fixed to the hull by fibra/glass more on that in later when done.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Just a few more of the linning up of the motors. :-)) :-))
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Just dry fitting the deck support and deck to see about getting into the motors etc. :-)) :-))
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Theses two photos are to show how much I had to file out to get the prop shaft lined up all will be done later :-)) :-)) wallace
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Motor brackets and hull base been stained and had two coats of varnish. the stain is Mahogany :-)) :-)) wallace
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Hi Wallace, excellent job, were those motor mounts part of the kit or of your own manufacture? :-)) :-)) :-))
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about the motor mounts the mounts are not part of the kit I got the ply and design on line from the person who has built the boat the ply looks so strong than the metal one and this design the motors are not going to move around Im happy with them although I have had to make the prop holes that much bigger but its worth it. wallace
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Looking good, also the timber motor mounts will help absorb any unwanted motor noise.
Nice clear pics :-)) :-)) :-))
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Building up the boat sub deck/funnel deck which is the ply sub-deck and five camber pieces fitted to the underside to give the deck a camber affect lines were drawn 12mm in on both sides and and from the front end and the back end 13mm then and then from the front edge 60mm,125mm,210mm these were super glued in place and lead weights place on the deck to set over night the following day I filled the cambers to the deck with epoxy resin and left to dry over night,then the next job was to stain all the ply with wood stain and once again left to dry over night and yesterday coated the whole frame but not the top as yet with clear varnish I have done this on this model for the first time as it may be my last build and also to protect the ply from rotting and it looks so neat.
The first lot of the photos again show you the parts dry fitted nothing has been fully fitted to the hull as yet the last photo shows the deck stained and varnished. wallace :-)) :-))
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Heres the next bits to be fitted to the boat here you can see the way I fit the base on which the moters and the battery's sit on the plywood base is fixed to the hull by glass fibre and and help into place with heavy batteries left to harden for 24 hours in it own time remove the batteries and use body filler all the way around and left again to set then rub down until smooth remove all dust and get ready to fix the motor and running gear in place which will be the next job. wallace :-)) :-))
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These photos show the base plate for the running gear and battery fully fixed to the hull the sides all filled in and rubbed down to a smooth finish also the running gear taped up ready to be fixed in place and the hole where the prop shaft goes through the hull also ready to be filled in.
wallace :-)) :-))
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These pics are showing you how I do the running gear from outside and inside the hull you have already seen the holes drilled and filed out to take the prop shafts and like I said earlier had to file abit bigger than normal due to the motors and the motor brackets.
I filled the holes with car body filler from the inside the hull with tape on the outside also used the same filler to hold the shafts in place left the filler to harden over night then I carefully rubbed inside and outside to a smooth Finnish,had to put abit more filler on the outside off the hull sanded again and all looks great inside was also rubbed down so it looks nice and tidy ready for painting.So now the shafts are all in place next job to fix the motor brackets in place .
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Latest update on the build yesterday14/10/11 and today made up frame to hold the rudder servo out of bits of plywood put a coat of wood stain in and out and held the servo in place by 4 small screws with the lead pointing to the bow the frame is held in place by filler and I will not look at it now for 24 hours I have also fixed the moter brackets in place by epoxy and place a large battery on top to hold in place once again leave for 24 hours,
So at the moment the only parts/bits of the boat that are fully in place are -- prop staft, servo, and motor and motor brackets also the base plate,I think my next jog will be to fully fit and fix into place will be the rudder and to fill the hole the rudder goes through.
Just jumping ahead a little bit because on the resolve there is alot of rigging etc so I am going to leave the 12v battery's in place and have on the upper deck two jack points to fit banana plugs so the battery's can be charge with leaving them in the boat.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Make sure you can remove them if neccessary. If the battery fails on you, you do not want to be in a situation where the model needs to be destroyed to get the battery out. I had one of those cross my desk only a couple of weeks ago, an HMS Amethyst with a 6v 4amp battery built in to the model. The battery had been left plugged into the speed control for 6 months and was dead flat. Luckily it took a charge and recovered, otherwise it would have been off with the deck!
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Just a quick reply to the last post from Portsmouth about leaving the battery in boat ....I will make sure that all will be safe and sound and all will be switch off by the on/off switches.The only reason I MAY do this and charge the battery while its in the boat is because of all the rigging and to remove the rigging etc to take the battery out in time something will get broken and the battery's these days are safe anyway thanks for being concern about the boat.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Update on the build at last all the running gear is in place and fixed to the boat all holes that I had to drill and open up have all been filled and smooth these photos once again show you how i do things my way in fitting and filling hope they help Rudder is now in place and fixed have put greese inside the brass rod that the rudder fits into while doing so the first time i forgot so had to take all out before it set but all is done now and I am happy photo does show under the hull where the rudder fits and how the hole is all smooth out also I fitted the under fore deck to the frame next I will clean up inside the hull and paint it all white but not the plywood as that is all done. wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Todays job was to clean inside the hull and re-move all bits and all dust from rubbing down I have put the first coat of white paint which is white undercoat to make the hull all nice and clean. wallace :-))
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Theses photos are showing you how I have use the space inside the hull and using the decking frame what I have done is made a shelf
each side of the frame this is sitting above the batteries in the centre of the boat and will be easy to get to if needed on this shelf will be the speed controllers and the receiver plus room for all the electrics each side. wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Here are a few more photos of what I have done today
I made a frame so the batteries could sit in and not move around I have made it for either one battery or two 12v battery's
if I do use two battery's it will be one for each motor and the boat will not need that much lead to weigh it down.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Very neat Wallace, excellent. :-))
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Many thanks Richard for your kind words.
Todays photo's are showing the two sides of the fore-deck (hull) side all cut out used my Dremal and a small file then fine sand paper.
wallace :-)) :-))
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My next tasked was to cut out the breakwater out of the plywood and after sanding very carefully to get the shape and dry fitting for the lengh across the deck, to get the bend I place the ply in water for 30 mins and bent it carefully between my fingers so before fitting etc I put in place temporarily the printed overlay deck, tape into place.so after cutting the ply to fit at the bulwarks I cut out on the last job I temp fitted all and held in place to dry so hopefully after 24hrs the breakwater will be at the right shape.
wallace :-)) :-))
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these photos show what I have been upto its about the printed ply that goes over the sub deck as you can see bits had to be cut out I never cut up to the line in case the knife slips or you cut to much the rest is sanded to the line slowly.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more
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These next few photos are about cutting and filing the opening for the washports both sides.
First I remove the frame for the decks etc and covered the motors with bubble wrap and taped to the sides so no dust hopefully gets into the motors, i drilled a few holes where the wahports are going to be sited and slowly open the hole up to the size I wanted for the washports to fit tested to see if they go through the opening I open them just abit bigger that was done in mind because of all the coats of paint that will be applied and the washports will be fitted on the in side with a very small gap at the bottom thats to allow any water on the deck to escape,there will be lugs on the doors which will be recess into the bulwark this will allow the doors to fit flush.
The last photo shows the washport its just taped to the hull for show.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Well its been awhile since my last posting so these photos are what I have done so far this week.
After looking and looking to get ready to put all the wiring together I was not to happy with the position of the servo from the rudder arm these photos show I have taken most of what I have done apart and cut more ply and raised the servo up by 50mm alot happy now and after dry fitting the deck the sevo fits ok under the deck and the opening for the engine room the servo is well place for any repairs just got to re-stain and varnish the ply and then hopefully fit the deck frame etc,the servo box is only dry fix no glue as yet.
wallace :-)) :-))
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These's next few photos No 163 to 166 show what I have done ,I fineally fixed the re-make of the servo box with eproxy and left to set for two days in this cold weather I then re-stained the ply had to cut the end support of the deck frame for the rod from the servo to the rudder arm to fit.
wallace :-)) :-))
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The last of the rebuild of the servo mount these two photos are showing the plywood deck just sitting in place to see if all is well and that the servo is not catching the deck at the moment im happy.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Well after a long break back to the boat so theses photos are about greasing the prop shaft its a job I forgot to do when I fitted the prop shafts and motors and its a must to do before finally fitting the deck in place,there is more room to work on when deck is off.
First job was to remove the two motors and then remove the prop and the prop shaft,I use grease and use a syringe to put the grease into the shaft until it came out the other end,next was to put the shaft back but you do this very very slowly bit by bit keeping your finger tight against the end to try and stop the grease from coming out OK some does but if you take your time around 5 Min's it can be done,once through just clean up and put all back together time taken around 1 hour + got the other side to do it will be done the same way.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Here's the start of me doing my elec's etc its a big mess at the moment wires etc to long but I done it that way to test everything will work hopefully it will all look neat in the end.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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That horrible red wood stain is starting to grow on me, now it is in the model! Excellent job so far :-))
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many thanks for the kind words from a lovely part of the UK was based there for 12 years in the RN 60's & 70's
the red wood stain was a odd tin I had left over and I just used it up (still have a small bit left) I thought it would would stand out and clear varnish on top makes it a very clean job and also it stands out from the white that I have painted in side the hull,its just me as we all know when we are down at the boating lakes having a sail and we have the tops of people are always around asking questions about your boats and build Im one off these that whats everything neat and tidy thats what the Royal Navy does for you.Plus if you drop anything inside it is easy to find due to the colours.Also the stain helps keep the plywood dry in case any water gets in side and you only see it when the superstru comes off the change the batteries.
Thanks once again and hope you are please with my build etc.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Just to show you how I have done the wiring for the engine room I'm please to say that it all works and as the pictures show the wires have been cut down alot smaller and all tied in etc and fit onto the trays that I added to the deck frame,I will be extending the wire from the on/off switch's and will be joined as one switch I'm thinking of putting the switch inside the top of the funnel or on deck still looking at the way to keep the battery's on-board to charge as not to remove rigging every week.
The photos also show all the wires neat under the boat deck which is removeable,just got to make sure the wire to the rudder arm is strong and does not pop out then I can think off fixing the frame to the hull and the decks to the frame then start the big build up.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Just a few photos of the Resolve having a rest along side his mates in the workshop before it goes for its first run on water
wallace :-)) :-))
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Sunday 15 Jan 2012 it was a very cold and white morning @ 09.45am the lake was half frozen so while waiting for my friend etc from our society to arrive for our sunday chat and sail etc,time for a cuppa and let the sun warm up and melt the ice,so by 10.30am a few have started to arrive.so after one and all having a look at my new build time had come to put her in the water and as the photos show she looks OK so everything in the engine room works so I was happy the only thing I must do now is put a mixer in to slow one motor down while the boat turns and to get a lengh of stronger wire from the servo to the rudder arm to stop it bending up and coming of and to sort out the rudder movement from the transmitter I want to put the lever over to the left so the boat goes to the left and same for the right.In the water for around one hour it sits ok and goes ok and the best news is no water in the boat at all from the rudder or the prop tubes so I have done things right.Hope you like the photos.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
I have been lurking and watching your build. Time to say it looks good and the layout inside is neat.
I do really like neat. Your shed fleet looks impressive too, must be a lot of hours in them.
Re stained wood - yes it does look muck better in the boat than on the bench. I'll keep watching the
build with interest. I'm only in Huyton so maybe I'll see her sail one day - where do you usually sail?
Regards Dave
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Still not anywere like warm enough to go at that lake ,that cold is bad for the body if you have any problems , we will leave it for a bit yet ,common sense and docs orders come into play .but not always it seems did you see the birds with a coat on ? good heavens even the public gave it a miss the temp only got to 36 and that was over the road .
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Hi Dave (NORSEMAN) many thanks for your very kind words about my build I'm so glad that you like it at the moment the way I do things is just me it has to be neat other wise dont do.The boating lake the photos where taken is the boating lake in New Brighton which is open to anyone yes it was cold but if you wrap up well and take hot cuppa's you are ok.
I sail most sundays unless its really bad weather.
Love to see you at the lake and put this date down and bring your boats etc on the last Sunday in May 2012 the society I am with we are doing a fund raising day for the Liverpool Heart and Chest Hospital on that day you are most welcome to come and have some fun you can also keep in touch to find out more and go onto our website which is
wallasey model boat society.co.uk its a very good site
yes my fleet of boats have taken me hours and hours over the past 7 years and also have you seen my last build it called the building of Sir Lancelot.
Once again thaks for the kind words.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Access hole for the rudder which will be hidden
wallace :-)) :-))
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The build is progressing nicely, i'm happy to see I am not the only one to give my batteries names!
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To start with thanks again for kind words.
Yes all my batteries have the boats name and two for each boat that I sail plus spare.
Todays photos are to show you the build at the stern that covers the opening to the rudder arm please remember the photos are taken with the bits not done only tape up and not clean or painted or varnish.
You can see the stern platform and the salvage anchor box with both have under them the steering chain covers which you will see at a later date.
Really just going ahead a little bit because Im waiting for my glues to arrive so I can fix the deck frame to the hull and also the aft deck to the frame, also I have all the bits not to leave the batteries in the boat and charge them with out taking of the superstruct its going to make the boat heavy but no more broken rigging now I hope will show all when its done.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Just started to fit the deck frame to the hull the photos you can see are the second atempt at bonding all together because the first time I done it two days ago that night the weather got really cold and the eproxi did not set I had a look 24 hours later no good,so I clean everything up and started again this time with glass fibra had a look and its ok,roll on the warm weather.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Photos showing the deck frame fixed to the hull and tape etc all removed the next job to do is clean up the glass fibra and sand the two sides of the boat deck down level with the frame hoping that its fixed together ok but its a job to be done after the cold weather goes will eprox underside of the frame.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Good morning to all
I am a new member and have only just picked up the site. I have also started a Resolve and are now at the same stage approximately.
I have picked up the same problems with the deck formers etc. and about to finalise the motor installation. I tried to keep to the instructions and keep the prop shafts parallel to the keel. This obviously results in the shafts too close to the floor of the hull and some toe out of the prop shafts. I am still finalising a decision as I dont want to cut and carve as described so the motors will be very low. For my next major decision I am awaiting the fitting the mid section deck. I wait to see how this is solved.
I look forward to a solution.
many thanks for so far
ken2
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Since my last post I have sanded the hull sides down to the stringers on the boat deck all is holding together,have filled the gaps around the deck I used a new filler for this but after 24 hours went to sand down and it all just brushed out and off the gaps phone the makers up and was told that the filler is only used for balsa wood not for filling around decks what a waste of money have gone back to my way of filling and that is car body filler and it worked great all done.marked and fitted the breakwater to the deck and have tape the side to fill in put into place the extended bulkhead to see how it fits and looks.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace, looking good you shoulld put this build on our site too.
see you at our meeting.
Regards Dave.
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Immaculate as usual Wallace. :-))
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Hi Wallace
Very crisp and tidy work there. I hope to achieve the skills you show.
Do you have to seal that body filler? If so what with please?
Dave
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Here's a reply to (Norseman) Dave I seal all my filler with around three coats of primmer then undercoat hope this helps.
This photo is about the breakwater joining to the side of the hull I filled with as always car filler I sanded down had a good look
at the job just done and thought it looks OK so took photo of work done had a look before posting on here not happy it just goes to show what the camera picks up and the eye doesn't but next it will look great trust me.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Here's the work I am doing to get the filling on the breakwater 100% right so please start with photo 211 you can see not to good .
Started more sanding once again looks OK with the eye but the camera tells me a very big NO I'm going to mix a very small amount of filler leave for 24 hours then re-sand it will get there in the end.
It must be me being abit to fuzzy but its got to be 100% right or not do it in the first place no wonder it takes me around 2 years to build but its all great fun in the end.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Well after filling abit more then sanding I think I have got it right.Follow from other photos.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Got the aft sub deck fixed in done with car filler as you can see it looks more like a container ship ;) lets hope it all drys and holds ok will leave for 24 hours.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
Many thanks for your helpful telephone conversation. As a result I decided to follow your advice and cut and carved a new prop shaft location.The underwater is not true scale as I am using the alternative rudder so it is not too impure but in hindsight I may make a more robust scale rudder. I would however champion the use of cyno glues for use on fiberglass. I used cyno to attach an array of timber under the deck then applied epoxy for the timber/timber joint and restrained the hull with tape etc while a cyno bead was applied round the periphery. Job done in five miutes then wait for the epoxy to go off.
(http://s14.postimage.org/3xrg7nfod/resolve_005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3xrg7nfod/)
Still waiting to see your mid deck solution !!
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More work on the aft deck the filling is all done and the photos shows the cut out for the rudder and all my weights removed I did leave them all on for a good 24 hours I then set about filling the gaps around the sub deck using car filler once again as you can see its every where but I make sure it all goes into the gaps and NO water will get through into the hull so you can see I really made a mess but I will make good trust me.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace,
A little tip when filling gaps is to run your finger around the join to compress the filler deeper into the gap and it produces a nice curved joint. This can be followed up with a flat piece of plastic around the deck area. Might save a lot of awkward sanding when it's all dry. :}
I admire your work as I couldn't achieve your results. Smashing builds. :-))
ken
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Ken many thanks for your remark about filling have taken it onboard also thanks for your kind words of my build.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Wallace: Your build is looking really nice, thanks for sharing, and with all the photo's. I keep checking back in to follow your updates. Excellent work !
With filler in internal corners I use a thin small square of Plasticard with a tiny radius on the corners. Works for me, and helps reduce the amount of sanding later.
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many thanks Bob for your kind words I am enjoying the build like all my others and with myself I always try and make the build better than the last one so hoefully this one is better than my build of Sir Lancelot which is on this site but as of yet not had it sea trails,once again thank you .
wallace :-)) :-))
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Theses photos show how messy the sanding can get so after a good couple of hours with the sand paper etc finally got it all smooth down and hover all off. You can see that I taped the opening to the engines did not want any dust getting into the motors as I left them inside.The printed decks fit great so I am happy.I will now get onto the hull ready for priming then once the hull is all done I will start the big build up ward.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Cor :-)) came out rather well
ken
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Hi Wallace
Had the first sea trial with my hull.
Enclose a couple of photos from our Droitwich club record keeper Tony Holt
The rudder lacked a good response and a little extra lead in the stern helped a little but still not good.
I used a radio mix for the motors but not too succesful although it did help to turn.
(http://s18.postimage.org/fjo4spilh/resolve10.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fjo4spilh/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/l1u22d10b/resolve11.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l1u22d10b/)
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Added a capping strip to each side of the top side of the hull so the boat deck fits all square just a little bit of rubbing down and maybe a bit of filler so the joins cant be seen I left them abit over size so I can join the other capping rails later I may not add until after the hull has been painted reason being I may leave the wood capping rails as wood and not paint them just varnish.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
You appear to be falling for the same problem I had with the boat deck as the 5mm sq strip advised in the instructions causes a problem.
With this in mind I called in at Jotica, the Caldercraft people to resolve the Resolve problem.
They are incredibly helpful and the visit to their Showroom/Museum is worth going well out of your way to visit. They have the two versions modelled on the box art to see and examine at leisure as well as some incredible static models.
The answer was to use a 3mm sq strip to edge the boat deck and the other problem regarding access after all the structure is added becomes obvious and is very easy and only requires the removal of one wire connection that can be a simple elasicated hook and the whole of the boat deck can be removed.
Good luck with the rest
Ken 2
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These photos are about the mistake i done on the hull I didnt line up the holes for the port holes it was like wavey navy ??? so I re-done the line and filled the holes with glass fibre and at the same time filled the top of the hull where I put the strips of wood where the boat deck sits.
Rub all down and re-drilled now they look ok will open them up later as the port holes are 8mm.
wallace :-)) :-))
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This is the start of the upper deck fittings thers photos are about the fitting together of the f/ward hatch,there is more work to be done ,I will be filling the sides with filler and sanding down so the joins cannot be seen when painted.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Here's the start of the building of bits to go onto the upper deck.This is the start of the Forward Companion Way.
From the parts had to sand down and glued together will fill the joins with filler ready to put primmer on.
wallace :-)) :-))
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This build is of the Aft companion way as you can see built the same way as the forward but had help with the hand sink to bend the ply before fixing.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
just found your build again post meltdown
keep up the good work
Dave
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Heres the latest parts to get built but not yet painted.The photos are about the wireless room I had to put weights onto the bits that were cut as the ply started to bow manage to do it.
wallace :-)) :-))
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The last of the wireless room the cut out bits are just tapped on untill I put on the first coat of primer.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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These photos are all about building the engine room cover this at first sight looks a rather complex bit of building, but over a few weeks got it all together and it turned out to be a very pleasing item to build,and the end is a splendid piece to build.As the photos go on and on you can see the engine room cover taking shape.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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more on the engine room. :-))
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And more :-))
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More more :-)) :-))
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And more on the engine room cover so far to get to this part of the build it has taken 12 days its a build not to rush and to let the glues work etc its not a job to rush.
wallace :-)) :-))
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After building the engine room cover as the good manual says but these days you need AAAA level in reading as the book does not say this and that,so after building the cover because the weather has been to cold to paint the hull etc I got ahead of the build so after building it and looking at the cut out I had done on the deck I just kept on saying to myself this is so wrong it does not say to put a coaming around the cutout so in the end I did make a coaming to fit inside the cut out of the deck as all my boats have it ( I must say very bad on the makers not to say this ) well its done and here are the photos just got to fix it in place and fill all around and sand down.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Well just to let you all know its always said that model building never runs smooth I know I have had alot over the years but you get better as the builds get bigger.
Well after my last photos on the coaming something fell off my work top and what did my lovely little foot do yes you are right a part of the build which has taken me around 16 days to build and just put the first primer coat on ended up under my foot and YES the part was WOW gone these photo show what it looks like.
The part is the engine room cover which I was so happy with so I will have to re-build it phone the makers up for help and they are going to send me the bits to re-make it well at a cost of £25 which I thought was a bit dear but I need it as the plans are not to scale and my dear wife blew her top with the cost the model etc cost over £500 and parts for the engine stearing cost me another £150 you would think I would just have to pay for the postage but never mind will have to be alot more careful.
wallace :-)) :-))
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So sorry to see that mess Wallace. I have actually done this when I was building a wooden cabin for my Waverley (I didn't let on so I know how you feel)
By looking at the pieces I would say to salvage the various shapes carefully back into a flat pack. This will give you the outlines for cutting new pieces without the need for drawings.
Also, as you've done it before, it might be quicker to assemble a new one this time.
Best of luck and keep us updated on your progress. :-)) :-))
Cheers
ken
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Thanks for the very kind words Ken.
Since I ordered the new bits from Jo-ticka I have clean up a few bits and have put together around the coaming to see how it looks will wait for the parts to arrive and re-do the cover.
I wont be posting the new build on here as its going to be like the last one I will post when all is done and prime coated.
wallace :-))
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Wallace , you have done well and kept your cool ,have a small rest , i,ve got a lovely build of a great ship ,but it did not happen overnite ,and that is the main feature ,things take time .plod on Wallace ,you will get there .
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UPDATE I have started on the re build of the engine cover got the new bits and this time building around the coaming and using other wood as well as the new bits.I must say the build is looking better than the first one WOW
wallace :-)) :-)) ok2
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Hi Wallace
Great shame about you disaster with the engine cover but I have rebuilt worst accidents with model aircraft and it is possible to salvage problems but don't be too critical of Jotica as I have been around their works and they do not appear to keep a store of die cut sheets and would probably have to set up the machine just for your 1 sheet.
I would suggest however that you are building things that you will not need for a long time yet and the radio room is on the upper deck !
My build is going pretty steady and I have come across a number of areas where your own judgment is necessary . This is definitely not a beginners model.
You may want to reconsider the combings for the engine cover though as when fully rigged it may be difficult to remove ?
Ken 2
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Thanks Ken 2 for your thoughts yes I was abit hard on them it was just me being annoyed with myself after taking so long in building it,and yes I did get ahead with the build that was due to the cold weather will now be able to do the hull with primer and undercoat.
Ken I hope if all goes well I will not be taking the top of will be leaving the batterys in and charging from the top.I will post a photo of the rebuild its looking good.
wallace :-)) :-))
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These photos are the coaming getting fixed to the cut out in the deck filld with car body filler always use it then leave to harden overnight and carefully sand down ready to paint.
Photo 297 is the re build of the engine cover looking better than the first one.
wallace :-)) :-))
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not a rivet in sight .
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Here's the engine room cover re-done looking better than the first one as you can see I have added battons around the bottom they were added while the cover was sitting over the coaming reason for that is the battons around the botton of the cover will sit flush with the deck without any gaps and I for one say it looks great,its had its first coat of primer photo taken while still wet will look after 24 hours rub down and give it another coat then top coat very please with the out come.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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First two photos are the coaming all fix to the cut out in the deck and filled all around with car body filler sanded down and will be painted before the printed deck goes into place.
The next photos are the engine room cover after it has dried out after looking at it I will rub down and give another coat of primer I did paint the underside of the cover and will give it a thin top coat to keep the weather out down at the lake it fits very nice no water will get into my hull great. Very happy with the build.
wallace :-))
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Just started to fit some of the fitting which are all of white metal the photos show the ash shute doors one on each side of the hull around mid-ships mooring port lips inside and out and also the washport covers also the rivet strips for the plating join on the outside the portholes will be added at a later stage as they are going to be of brass with glass covers so the lights can be seen.
Have also rub the engine room cover down again and filled some bits that im not to happy with and will rub down and give it another coat of primer.My next job is going to be to wash the hull with soapy warm water and a very fine wet and dry paper hose it down with clean water and then dont touch the hull until it has dry completely then give it its first coat of primer.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Well its almost 11 months since I first started to build the Resolve and at last I have started on the hull it was a nice day on saturday so I washed the hull with soapy warm water and very fine wet and dry paper then before the sun started to dry the hull got the hose out so in one hand the hose and the other soapy water and wet/dry redone the whole hull with the wet/dry soapy water and straight away hosed it all over with clean water then left it to dry in the sun for around two hours.
After a cuppa and a bite to eat I put the first coat of primer on 30 mins later put another coat on once again left it to dry in the sun for another 30 minutes then put a third coat of primer on left to dry and then carefully move the hull into the boatyard to rest and harden overnight.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More about the hull added more primer to the hull this time light grey to the top of the hull and to the inside of the hull also all over the decks there is the printed deck to go over the deck that I have painted but it gives it a nice seal and looks good,I have also filled and rub down the engine room cover and giver it another coat of primer all is going well at the moment , :-)) :-))
wallace
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Theses few pictures show the grey primer painted on down to the water line while looking at the grey primer on the hull by the boat deck was not to happy rub down after the photos were taken and filled ready to rub down the photos really help and show up everything.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
Just thought I'd pop in and say hello :-)
and I'm still watching your build progress.
Regards Dave
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Thanks Dave for taking the time to view my build its coming along at a very slow rate of knots,pleased with what I have done so far still along way to go.
wallace :-))
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Wallace - I like that it's a slow build.
Wham bam, thank You Mam' just doesn't float my boat {-)
(except at work - ooh I can't finish those shifts quick enough)
Dave
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More on the painting side added two more bits and coated in primer grey just abit more on the hull to get the water line spot on its the stern which I always have abit of touble but im getting there.
wallace :-)) :-))
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It's looking very nice Wallace.
To get the water line accurate, have you tried floating her in the bath (correctly weighed down ) with Talcum powder in the water. When you carefully lift her out it will leave a line around the hull. :}
Cheers
ken
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Ken many thanks have never tried that way before always used my eyes and the plans but I will have a go.
Do you put the T- powder on top of the water before the boat goes in or the other way round.
wallace
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Hi Wallace,
Sprinkle it across the water top and immerse the boat gently. Lift it back out carefully and marks crucial points at intervals with a soft pencil. :}
It's when it slips out of your hand and crashes into the water that causes much mirth.
ken
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Hi Wallace
I just thought I might send you a picture of my Resolve.
A bit of a rush job compared to your progress and some features were guessed at and now need to be altered after futher research.
These were again taken by Tony Holt on our Droitwich Club Waters.
Hope it encourages your progress as it is a very interesting model to build.
I have also included an original for information
Ken2
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Looks good Ken2 to get it done in 3/4 months you must have been at it 24/7 im into my 12th month and still along way to go.
wallace
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Hi Wallace
Got to admit it was a lot of me time but I did have a heater in the workspace and cyno certainly solves a lot of problems.
At the end of the day its what suits as a life style and we are all different.
It now leaves a space to fill - What next ???
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Back on track after a big break have been doing abit but not had the time to post the build due to illness.
photos showing the capping rails and how I have done them taped the rails to the plans and marked where the stantions are going then drilled with my small hand drill.I think Im going to stain the rails then varnish.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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These are photos of the building of the wheelhouse and to be honest I built the wheelhouse two times as I didnt like the first one so took it apart and re-done as nothing matches the plans that I have but it done now and its looking good.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More of the wheelhouse
wallace :-))
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Hi Wallace
So sorry to hear about illness but its a pleasure to see you back in action and reminding me of the problems and solutions you are going through.
I did find a slight problem of fit with the wheelhouse as you have to cut the veneer by hand and it can be a little brittle and fitting it to the CNC cut base needs a steady touch.
Good luck with the result
ken2
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More on the build of the wheelhouse I have made it my way and I think it looks alot better with the supports around the joins.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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At long last I have painted all the hull incluing the primer there is around 10 coats of paint and all hand painted which I always do.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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That looks superb Wallace. What brushes do you use please as I'd like to get away from spray paint now and again. ? Also, do you thin down the paint as ten coats sound a lot.
cheers
ken
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Hi Wallace
looks lovely - yes any paint advice much appreciated.
Dave
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Thanks for lovely reply to my build ie painting.
The brushes I use are sable brushes all are small headed from 1mm upto 10mm I painted the hull with the 10mm and the paint I use is all humbrol but the ships side is x royal navy paint ,I always rub down between coats and any bits I dont like a harder rub the wet and dry and sand paper goes upto 2000 so as I build up the coats the hight the grade of paper and I always leave coats on for min of 48 hours before another coat lightly rub then paint again.I never ever thin the paint down because I like a beautiful finish hope this helps one and all.
wallace :-)) :-))
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:-))
cheers
ken
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Ken and Dave here's all my battle gear for making my boats look nice ??? ha ha
you can see the brushes and make if you do close up's hope this helps.
wallace <*< <*< :-) :-) O0
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Here's the mid deck port and stbd companionway from the parts to putting together next will be the painting.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Here's the wheelhouse paneling all stained and ready to be put together.Also the printed decks all been stained.
:-)) :-)) :-)) wallace
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The wheelhouse paneling put together and fitted but not glue in place .
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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More photo's about the panels around the wheelhouse.
wallace :-)) :-))
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These photo's show the building of the hatch's, companionways, salvage pump box,salvage pump gear box which is the bigger ones,water tank,
wallace :-)) :-))
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more on the building
wallace :-))
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More of the build for the upper deck.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Now onto the funnel had to some cleaning up on the joins and also had to put filler on and rub down.
I measured down from the top of the funnel 210mm and thats where the funnel base is position alot of fine rubbing down to get the base to fit.Holes had to be drilled for the funnel stay eyelets around the moulded funnel ring,holes also had to be drilled for the steam pipe,and the steam pipe is of alloy had to be cut to 205mm and the top 10mm bent carefully to 10deg so far all are a pre=fit to see how it looks and before painting.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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more on the funnel.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more off the funnel.
wallace :-))
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A few more of the funnel getting done had two coats of x navy grey paint and the tops painted in black also the inside of the funnels are painted in a matt black the steam pipes are not yet fixed into place as of yet will do when im happy with the paint.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Very nice Wallace, but , it might be an optical illusion , but do your funnels lean in opposite directions ?
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Dicky here's your answer about the funnels not fixed in as of yet all my last posts have gone with the wind .
wallace :-)) :-))
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This is the gun platform getting built up as you can see alot of cutting and gluing rubbing down then staining.
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Work on the stanchions and the wood railings the stanchions are of brass and 20mm two hole the top hole I sanded down to fit under the railing as I could not get one hole with pin so like we say there is always a way to do things and I done it my way
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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More on the Gun Platform all stained with two coats just need to varnish , and the first build of the gun to see how it looks not all done.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More on the railing on the funnel deck as you can see had to do a very small railing the plans were not much good just hope it looks ok when all is done
wallace :-)) :-))
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certainly coming along nicely :-))
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Here's more of the fitting of the brass stanchions and now with the brass wire just got to get a few more 20mm stanchion I missed counted (silly me )
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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A few more to have a look at
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Now back to the funnel these photos show how i fixed the funnel to the deck after making sure i got the height from the deck ok 210mm on both funnel I turn the deck up side down marked a line on both and then drilled a hole both sides to take a 2mm steel rod so it fixes under side and glued in place with epoxy and all around the funnel (have not had a look since and its now 24 hours so its well set) its my way of fixing so it does not come of down at the lake also I think its kids proof.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Back once again to the gun platform have put brass stanchions in place of the white metal and also used brass wire,had to open up the hole to take the wire as the photo shows very small drill all done by hand,the platform is in place but not fixed down got more to do.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Back to the building after two weeks of this flu.
The photos today are how I'm putting together the Large and small Cowel vents.
I started by cutting two lengths of 70mm and two lengths of 45mm all from a 14mm piece of dowel,all four pieces had to be sanded for the bases and the top turn gear rings,the base has to go up the dowel around 5mm for it to fit into the deck,and the gear ring goes over the top of the dowel and sitting onto top of the gear ring is the cowl vents,the photos show the first part and none are glued together just put together to see how it looks.I will be drilling a hole in the top of the dowel and will epoxy a piece of wire rod also drill into the cowl vent and then join the two together with epoxy.There is other bits to put into place and the dowel has to be treated and painted will post when all is done.Hope you like wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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A few more of the vent cowls.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Some more on the building of the cowl vents.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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All of interest Wallace - enjoying your build very much.
Dave
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Still on the building of the cowl vents large and small these photo's show how bad the white metal is and it took me a few hours to rub them down to my standard. :-)) :-)) :-))
wallace
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Next stage of the building of the vents all have had primmer and top coat x two coats theses are the large vent which sit just behide the bridge and just high enough to get the air into the ship. Please note the vents are not fully glued together as yet still need a bit of painting the inside of the vents will be painted black and the brass rod will be cut to size. :-)) :-))
wallace
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These photos are of the small vents which sit behide the aft funnel and the last photo is the large vent a side veiw behide the bridge the next bit will be to pin and glue the vent tops and once dry fix all to the deck. :-)) :-)) :-))
wallace
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You have certainly improved them Wallace. Smashing job. :}
I noticed you had shadows on your photos which was most unusual for a model. Very realistic impression. I like that.
Ken
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really looking great :-))
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Almost done with the two sets of cowl vents taken awhile to do but do slowly and do it right they always look greet when finnish.I'm happy with them they are not glue to the deck as yet,the photos show the vent upside down after being pinned and epoxy together and all were done the same way and inside of the vents I painted black.Next task is redoing the wireless room that sits between the funnels
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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This is the wireless room getting a makeover as you can see from previous photos I have added small battens around the bottom this will make it stronger and will fix to the deck alot better.The colour is getting changed to a mid-dark grey and with brass portholes.Next up is the main mast.
wallace :-)) :-))
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This is the start of the main mast as you can see alot of bits to clean up so what I have done is look at the bits to do cut the tube and wood to size.Also to clean out the inside of the mast base so the bottom of the mast fits.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More on the main mast.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Still on the building of the cowl vents large and small these photo's show how bad the white metal is and it took me a few hours to rub them down to my standard. :-)) :-)) :-))
wallace
Oh !!come on Wallace.........it's only a bit of moulding flash and if they were perfect, it'd be just like building a Revelle kit...........where no skills are needed at all except for reading. These little idiosyncracies to overcome make you a better modeller in the long run........isn't that what you would want from your kit??? Overcoming little problems like this is half the fun!!
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building a Revelle kit...........where no skills are needed at all
Wow, you mean they have kits for me? Great news.
But I'll still follow Wallace and pick up some tips.
Dave
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A few more pics of the main and fore masts all mast rings have been primed and under coated and also with gloss paint I have used Royal Navy grey gloss for both masts and for all others bits on the masts I have painted with a darker grey so they stand out,its takes abit of time to do all with all the rubbing down painting and rubbing down between coats and lining everything up as you can see by the tape on both masts when Im happy with all the paint I will glue all in place.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Just a few more with the masts its slow but its looking ok so why rush the photos do show the two greys i have painted and put into tht deck but still not fixed.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Finaly got my brass portholes the ones in the photos are 8mm just tidied up the holes due to the paint so the portholes would fit,at this stage I have not put the glass in yet and the portholes are not fixed in place,i'm happy as they look great,will have to do a bit of make over on some of the paint not happy the PC picks up all the faults so when it warms up will get onto it.
I have 6mm brass portholes for the hull just have to open up the holes first.
So far very happy with the build really enjoying it still alot of work to do,will have working lights, and onboard battery charging so no more take battery's out just have to work out the best way to run wires.
wallace :-)) :-))
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As always, certainly a joy to look at Wallace.
I'm interested in the mechanics of on board charging so be nice and make the explanation idiot proof for me :embarrassed:
Dave
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Ok Dave when I get round to doing it I have done a dummy run on the worktop and it works .
When i do it I promise I will everything down that I do and take photos step by step.
made up you are happy with my build once the good weather comes I will be doing alot more hours on her my health hopefully will be alot better have not sail my boats since September.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
Sorry to hear you are suffering but its great to watch you solve the problems. You certainly will not want to remove the battery to charge. I fitted a 4mm Maplin jack plug socket to my Resolve and a 4mm plug to the charger lead. The wire goes straight to the battery using a double spade connector - No problem. I used a good quality on/off switch as the battery is always in circit. There are lots of places to hide them but I fitted mine under the boat deck.
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The next lot of photos of the build is priming and glossing of the Large and small steering chain sheave's the first one show all painted with primer.
wallace :-)) :-))
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All parts with Black gloss looks good.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Theses show the salvage anchor houing and the rudder quardrant in place but as of yet not fix to the deck.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Just a few more to show how the steering and aft platform looks when all fitted there will be chain in place when all done,the last photo shows the chain sheave's together but I have not glue in place as yet letting the paint go hard first.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace....all the components themselves arew minature models...... :-))
I am sure it must be an optical illusion with me being upside down when viewing the images :D .....but :embarrassed:
1. the arc of travel for the rudder quadrent appears to have a very small angle before the quadrant engages the sides of the surrounding box
2. the horizontal cut outs for the chain on deck level [within] the box appear too far aft? ....
3. will the steering chain be functional? .......Derek
Derek
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Just to put things right the aft platform and the rudder quadrents etc. I have made them all up just for show as they were in days gone past were a secondary steering for break-down on the main.
The whole of the aft platform with the quadrents etc will be all fixed together so it can be lifted of in one to get to the steering arm below the deck there is a cut out which lifts of and there is photos of all this when I done the deck.
Love the comments keep them coming
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Derek - Just for information, the kit also includes a full scale rudder but this is a delicate white metal construction and is not recommended for extensive sailing. This if required could be fabricated into a fully working system, but obviously the sides of the quadrant box would also need to be removed and working pulleys would also be needed for the chain.
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Back to the wheelhouse have put the clear plastic in to make the windows.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More on the parts inside the wheelhouse they are not fully fitted as yet just need abit more painting to do.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Testing for size
wallace
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Heres more photos of the build of the Anchor Windless all parts were cleaned and rub down all had 2 coats of primmer and 3 coats of top coat (black gloss) just the hand wheels to paint there is a few moving parts but all will be ok when the chain is put on.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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some more of the Windless.
wallace :-)) :-))
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A few more of the stern winch.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Putting the towing gear together and painting.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Good going Wallace the towing winches and gear are
models in there own right
They really look great
Ned
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More on the towing gear and the aft winch all had two coats of black gloss.
Please note as always with my building I have not fully fixed in place only put on so I can see if Im happy with them just a little bit of painting to do on the hand wheels.
wallace :-)) :-))
Many thanks ned for your kind words they all make me happy during the build :-) :-)
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Lovely winches and nice photos Wallace O0
Dave
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A few more of the towing gear , the towing gear is built around the aft mast and on each side are 2 med vents the mast is nearly all done and the vents are put together and given two coats of primer the photos shows all in place but they are not fixed as of yet just want to see if all looks ok the mast will not be fixed until I work out how to do the lighting Im no good at it my last boat a friend done it for me but i dont like always asking to get things done I will get there there.I hope anyway thats you like the build.
Thanks alot to the lovely replies of the build.
wallace :-)) :-))
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I'm back to the flying bridge, as the photos show had to drill 13 .07mm holes for the stanchions these are for the awning stanchions,if I had done them before I fitted the wood cladding around the bridge I think the holes would have been all wrong so I'm glad I have done them this way.As the photo shows the under side of the bridge deck has not been treated with anything which made things alot better to mark out,I took my time and measued and checked many times before I drill the holes have tested the holes with the wire and all looks good,also to put into place the support strut spacer bars which will come to light later.A lot of things and work to be done but I will post things as I go along.
wallace :-)) :-))
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And more hoping you can follow the build ok I have changed bits on the awning beams and stanchions have used 1.2mm brass rod for the stanchions and 3mm x 2mm for the beams reason being it makes it alot stronger stops little hands from breaking it all looks a bit messie at the moment but it will be ok when finnished.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Re run of photos
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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and more of the re-run
wallace :-)) :-) :-) :-)
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Still on the flying bridge well the frame is almost done will be leaving it to rest for 24 hours then I may do some filling at the joins then it will all be painted as you can see its a real mess at the moment been rubbing it down a wee bit when all done all the varnish is going to be re done,so the photos show what I have done in the build from all angles looking at it I'm happy at the moment.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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more of the build.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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more on the flying bridge been prime and just looking to see what it looks like before top coat goes not to happy with it going to re sand etc then paint again,also a photo of the small vent that sits next to the towing gear.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Photos of the flying bridge re-done what i done was sanded all the wood and while I was doing it a beam just came away had to clean it up and when put back together it was to small would not fit into the holes in the deck so I made a new one and it fits this time ,at the moment it looks ok will give it a all over top coat but cannot fit into place as the bridge needs all re varnishing etc.also bits to add to the deck.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Looking awesome, love the piccies. Looks a cracking model and superb build sir! :-))
Si:)
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More on the flying bridge have painted the awning beams and stanchions top coat navy grey and the stanchions i went with a darker grey also the photos show some of the fittings that go on the bridge they are just held in place with blue tack just a little bit of painting on the fitting and when i have re done the deck all will be fitted.
wallace :-)) :-))
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A few more of the bridge all coming together now in the photos only half are fixed into place looking good.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more on the build
wallace :-)) :-))
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and more these are the bits to go on the boat/funnel deck.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more of the boat deck
wallace :-)) :-))
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What is up with this site just cant get anything on getting told after 5 mins the site is busy.
wallace
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trying again
wallace
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more
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more on the build which takes me back to the bridge and wireless room Im doing the doors my way so they look the same in and out cutting the holes for the windows then I will stain them and varnish then when all dry will fix them in place then add the brass portholes.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more on the boat deck also the water tank that sits ontop of the wireless room have redone the pipe work so it goes down to the deck.
wallace :-)) :-))
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It's looking good Wallace. :-))
Please keep the reports and photos
coming.
Ned
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Hi Wallace
You seem to be moving along well now.
A small point though with the water tanks. I have fitted a top fill and a bottom feed as per domestic practice.
You have fitted two bottom pipes as per the instructions. Was naval practice with these tanks different ?
I would be interested on any comments from anyone who knows.
Ken 2
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More on the water tanks.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Doors for the wireless room.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more on the doors had to cut open to fit the plastic glass then join back together.
wallace :-)) :-))
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doors all done put into place but not glue in just to have a look to see how they are.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Onto the hatch's in the photo are Hatch to Hold forward Hatch to Hold aft both made out of wood
also two forward Coal hatch's and two aft Cargo hatch's both are white metal as in early photos.
other photos are showing the hatch tops all made out of plywood stained and varnihed.
wallace :-)) :-))
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more on the hatch's all together and showing the base's are level so they sit level on the deck,with the cover's on which have all been sanded down to fit.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Photos
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Hatch's and all the cover's are rub down and the base is had two coats of primmer and two coats of gloss and the covers are all stained and two coats of gloss varnish.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Looking good, really good. I see you're a man after my own heart...using the a foam block for painting etc. :D
Si:)
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Parts for the boat deck and also the Hatch's from top coat to the end product.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Wireless room on the boat deck all done and place but not fitted to the deck.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Getting the small air vents ready for painting.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Back to the funnel remove the unfix steam pipe and used nylon cord and lagged the both pipes from top to bottom I think it makes it look good.
Wallace :-)) :-))
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Back on the build after a few months these photos are from May and the final bits of the funnel
wallace :-)) :-))
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Getting the davits ready but dont like the white metal (I think i will hunt online for some brass davits)
wallace :-)) :-))
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still on the boat deck the boat frames the the ships boats sit on are made out of ply 3mm and sit into a piece of wood for strengh the ships boats dont look right not happy with so found some great ones on dockyard so will be getting them.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Onto the stern platform made a few adjustments to the drawing added a safely rail and cover the brass rail in nylon which makes it stand out.The photos were taken once again a few months ago getting the platform just right took a lot of hours but it looks good when put all together.
wallace :-)) :-))
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and more on the platform.
wallace :-)) :-))
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These two photos are the fitting of the brass hand rail on the engin room cover.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Sorry missed the other photo of the hand rail
wallace :-)) :-))
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Photos of the building of the gun which sits on the f'wrd gun platform
wallace :-)) :-))
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And some more on the build of the gun platform plus more on the bow and parts added I think its coming along just fine still a long way to go will keep me going over the winter.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Ladder onto the funnel
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More
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Ladder painted and fixed into place.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Putting together the small hose reels .
wallace :-)) :-))
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The finished of the small hose reels are in photo 696 so sorry
wallace :-)) :-))
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Love this build series wallace. It has inspired me to consider building one myself. Any idea on sailing weight? I did call them but they had no info on record for that. Could be up to 30 lbs possibly?
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The making and fitting of the Towing Beams
While I was making the beams I thought they were on the thin side etc and would break easy with getting in and out of the engine room so I used a lot stronger plywood and double it up fixed stronger rods two coats of primer and three coats of gloss the photos will tell the story I hope.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More on the Towing Beams
wallace :-)) :-))
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Painting and fixing the vents to the engine room cover they had 2 coats of primer and the top coats I painted it a brass colour.
wallace :-)) :-))
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As the owner of a scruffy looking, weathered HMT Resolve, I must say your brightwork and varnished finish look great, keep up the good work.
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Putting together the Shrouds and Ratlines its a job that I'm not that good at but I always give it a good go and if I'm not happy I start again and again until I get it right have already been at it for over two weeks trying always tried fixing the ratlines to the shroud by a clove hitch knot was not happy but here are some of my trys so far and fix with super glue oh what fun.
wallace :-)) :-)) :o :o
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more on the rigging
wallace :-)) :-))
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This one was my latest try at doing it and fixed using epoxy and I left it over night so this photo is hot of the press taken 26 oct 2013 there were many failed ones which I was not going to photo but maybe later to show how bad they were so hoping this one is ok and not to much epoxy showing if so I may later paint with black paint.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Hi Wallace
I have just enjoyed catching up with the last few months of your build; Perked me up no end it has O0. You do really nice work.
Dave
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Hi Wallace
You should try fixing the masts and shrouds in place then tie the ratlines after as per full size practice.
Get the ratlines positioned where you want them by sliding them up and down the shrouds making sure both sides look right then apply a little cyno on the end of a pin to fix them in place--easy
ken2
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thanks Ken2
wallace O0
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Just to let you know the last photo on the rigging look ok in the morning cut the ends off and cut it of the board because the epoxy dripped put it upto the mast and it look to wide and i did not like it so its back to the drawing board and Im going to give that part a miss for now and go onto the rest of the build.Sorry.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Just a few more on my messy shrouds/ratlines put to bed until most of the ship is done.
Wallace :-)) :-))
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Nearly at the end of all the little bits to put together and paint all these parts are for the stern deck
Wallace :-)) :-))
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These last two photos are all the parts bit painted and place on the stern deck to see how they look but not fixed down as yet.
Wallace :-)) :-))
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These photos are about the ships boats I have changed them from the plastic form cut outs to the ones in the photos they are a lot stronger and look ten times better hope you like
done a tiny bit of cleaning of them and then two coats of primer and the ships hull two coats of top coat inside the same and the floor and around the top light brown all inside are going to have a coat of varnish.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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more on the boats.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Its back to the funnel and the stays from funnel to the boatdeck I have tried another way and method to stop un wanted hands from breaking bits of the boat by touching the stays during the photos will tell all.
wallace :-)) :-))
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What I have done this time is used Black ELASTICATED cord so if you catch it it is not going to do any harm.
wallace :-)) :-))
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More on the funnel stays
wallace :-)) :-))
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These last two photos are about lining up the davit over the boat to see how it looks.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Super detail as usual Wallace:-))....but those aft stay wires on the FWD funnel look a little problematic in placement %)
But will be OK, if the crew are trained to swing the lifeboats AFT bow out first to clear ? :embarrassed: .......Derek
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Hi Wallace
You may be a little disappointed by the use of elastic as they will stretch over time and need to be tightened which will be a big problem when the rest of the structure is in place.
Best to tell the little fingers not to touch.
ken 2
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Hi Wallace
Progress is good but many models can be spoilt by poor rigging.
My research could not confirm which rigging would be steel wire and which would be hessian rope.
I decided to assume all were hessian and attached by looping the end through its relevant attachment, tying a thread around the two ends, apply a little PVA glue with a pin then wrapping the ends around to look like a spliced end.
The second end can be tightened using the thread as the anchor.
Steel wire is similar but on my last boat at a bigger scale I used two pieces of fuse wire and twisting the ends to look like the two clevises.
On the subject of research I did visit the Maritime museum at Greenwich to check on the magnificent collection of period ship models that I remember from a few years ago but they have all disappeared and the place is now a kids play theme park.
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Back on track after time out, so these photos are about charging the 12v battery without taking the boat to bits to get the battery out to charge.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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My last post about the charging of batterys the photos i posted were the the testing of the boat there are two switchs that go onto the boat,, one is the on/off switch which will be hidden on the upper deck and the other switch is the connector for the battery charger and again it will be on the upper deck if i have two 12v batterys running one for each motor i will put two connectors for the batterys hope you can understand it abit better it does work and no more removing all the rigging for charging.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Back to the build these's pictures are the pillar between the bridge's it says to use brass rod after cutting and looking after fitting they just did not look right so once again I did it my way.
I had alloy rod and plastic rod after trying it with one I liked it but I changed again this time still using the alloy rod I put a plastic rod inside, good fit and it looked alot stronger so I cut the six pillars I wanted painted them up and fitted them to the under side of the bridge so strong.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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More on the bridge pillars all in place and all fixed looks good.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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:-)) :-) :-) Hi to all just a short post about my build of Resolve well its nearly been 2 years since i last done anything to the model,reason being I just needed a rest from it and my other boats,really I lost all interest as it took over my life and it got to the stage that there was no enjoyment going down to the boating lake to sail nothing was done for members i.e. steering comps and fun and games only people pulling others apart that apart took the fun out of building and sailing.So I sold at a give away price for my boats but kept my resolve I have always said I would sail her when I had finished building etc.So I uncover the boat last week dusted it down and from that moment said lets go so Im getting things together to start building and painting and to fit the engine room and wiring so from next week Im starting up again to the end and then find a nice place to go sailing in my own time and southport is looking good.Also over the past two years the health has been on a down that is another reason.
Hope to start posting more photos on site and to read more replies as well.
many thanks over the years for all the wonderful help.
wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Welcome back Wallace......it's only been about 2 years since I posted on your build.....carry on with the build :-)).....many were watching........Derek
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Derek many thanks for lovely post yea 2 years is along time so sorry to keep you all waiting for the end.
wallace
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Good to see the build back on.
Just think about those days at the pond edge with Resolve finished. Just watch your back launching her, she's a heavy beast!
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Dear o dear ,Wallace good to hear you ,thought you had finneished with boats ,I almost had after a brush with the [bosses] . never get the old days back ,some good times them , so Wallace ,good to hear you ,may see you around ,take care ,Dave ..
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Hi Wallace
Im really happy to see you back with this lovely build on the go again. :-))
Dave
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just testing. :-)) :-))
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hi to all so sorry about the mess up with photos,my girls got me a iMac for xmas 2014 and I am still learning how to use it after all the years with laptop and desktop with windows.
There is a lot to learn with apple but its so good today the photo i posted was with help from apple to resize as the iMac does not have the image resize for photos but the agent from apple worked it all out so i have written it all down so i hope I can do it myself.
The reason for the photos of the portholes is after my last post a few weeks ago i was looking at the boat and it hit me that the port holes were not level so i have taken the support for the boatdeck out carefully sanded bit ready to fill the holes and to re-do the holes from the drawing.,so here goes trying to put the photos on myself.
wallace :-)) :-)) [size=78%] [/size]
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just a few more.
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Sorry its been a few weeks its the same old news just getting back into doing the model and my health goes again first my knee has gone {-) now my heart is playing up again got to go in again next week to get it fixed.
Got the filling of the portholes done and have sanded them down both sides next job will be to re-do the position of the portholes and paint the mess but all will be done.
wallace :-)) :-))
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The filling.
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Good luck with your procedure Wallace. Hoe your recovery is quick and full
Dave
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Thanks Dave 10 days to go.
Heres a few of the filling sanded down have left the tape on for now to re-mark the holes from the plans this time all will be ok,just hope I have enough grey to touch up.
wallace :-)) :-))
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Taken me a while to read all 12 pages but top effort this is turning into a superb build :-))
Jay
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Back on the rebuild after a few more weeks out these photos are the re-doing again of the portholes hoping I have done right this time and that they are level ??? next job will be to open up the small holes for the brass portholes to fit,and also the side of the funnel deck had to take the two supports of so I could fill the old holes most likely do that before I open the holes up so the deck is ok and fits neatly. wallace :-)) :-)) :-))
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Theses photos show how I re-done the sides of the boat deck for the port holes as i took the first build apart.
wallace :-)) :-))