Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Barrhead on August 30, 2006, 12:16:25 pm
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Hi all! Is there any interest generally for the above described kit?
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I'm currently building the Revell re-issue, but I'm interested in a Matchbox version. I'm building the HMCS Snowberry, since the Bluebell option isn't included anymore, unfortunately.
Greetz, Johan
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Considering the number of both Matchbox, Revell etc versions out there, i think you could say that, one event i counted 47 corvettes of which 10% where scratch built or larger scale.
Mine is about 23 years old, others even older, in my opinion one of the best unintentional starter kits.
If you do a search you will find a number of threads dedicated to just this model.
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I'm currently building the Revell re-issue, but I'm interested in a Matchbox version.
We came across someone who had one for sale recently - wanted £40 for it. If you're interested I'll see if I can find the details. He was from the Midlands area.
Barrie
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Some on eBay at the moment.
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yea i checked that out, three of them.
Two were revell and one listed as a classic matchbox, though if you wanted to keep it as a collectors piece, i.e. in an unopened state (more valuable) no chance they had everything out of the box, i even went looking for the manuals for mine, still got them from 23 years ago.
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Thank you all for your response to my query which concerns one that I want to sell. It seems that there is definitely an interest. I checked out the EBay items and marked two for 'watching' - ie the vintage matchbox kit in USA and one other. Johan - I sent you a message.
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What's the best motor for one of these?
My next project is to finish off mine, which has been on the shelf 80% done, for 15 years!
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Frankie, mine has a graupner speed 400 motor, with a 1/3 gear. Still going way over scalespeed...
Greetz, Johan
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yes i need to know what motor is best, i have a 6v decaperm which drainds the battery in up to 20 mins, so it needs throwing
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Frankie.. I'm the same as you, and I've decided on a bog standard 385 (5-pole low drain) on probably 6v as I have two or three similar set ups for which I can utilise the same power pack.
Someone else has suggested a Deans Marine Kyte motor but i don't have any experience of these and they are a bit more expensive(!)
I may look at Deans propshafts and props when I'm there tomorrow - though I'm told Propshop is another alternative to source these from.
Cheers, Brian
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I got a nice prop shaft with oil filler tube and a brass 3 bladed prop for mine from Deans
Richard
Kyte motor at £8.95 not that expensive.
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A standard 385 run on about half it's rated voltage and direct drive works well. Say a 15v version on seven or eight cells. Mine is currently running on a 12 volt battery and a capstan motor from a dead VHS player.
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Sorry Tricky, you are right, those Kyte motors are good value. I've been to Deans Marine today and picked up two of the bigger motors - £11.50 each. Cheers, Brian
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Brian
You need a spare?
What did you get ,the Kondor?
Let me know how it goes.[Yes I know it goes round]
Good grief I'm getting as bad as some of the others on this forum.
Cheers Richard
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Hi Richard,
Sorry, I'm confusing you now, the two larger motors plus couplings plus props I bought along with (and for) a large Deans Marine model.
I already have a Mabuchi 385 motor set aside for my Revell Flower, but was looking at most of Ron Deans accessories today and was very impressed (especially the 1/100th WWII aircraft kits! Nice :o)
I think I'm going to buy a smaller model next time around and give one of those Kyte motors a go.
Cheers, Brian
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Richard, do you know what length propshaft you got for the Revell Corvette? Think you said it was a Deans with an oiler shaft.
Cheers, Brian
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Hi there Brian
Yes it was a 6" shaft with oiler tube from Deans cost about £8.50
Richard
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....Cheers Richard.
Just that I was reading an old MM last night about the conversion of the matchbox Corvette kit to R/C and they mentioned an 8" propshaft being used - would it benefit from an extra 2" then (come on guys, don't all shout up at once! ;D ) or is 6" spot on (as it were?)
Thanks, Brian
(almost felt a poll coming on there - is 6" long enough - YES or NO? ;D )
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Hi Brian
8" propshaft might raise the motor end slightly thereby could help prevent the wet stuff getting in. Very marginal though. I use silicone grease.
Would put the motor right behind stack. Rather cuts down the room for'ard.
Cheers Richard
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Richard..
Hi, thanks for your thoughts on that issue - very useful to know the possible plus and minus effects of your choice. I just couldn't make up my mind, but as I use a teflon based grease similar to yours, a 6" propshaft will probably do the job then. ;)
Cheers and thanks again, Brian
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Hope all goes well Brian
Suppose it will be my fault if it goes pear shaped.
Thank *** I live at the other end of the country.
Richard
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Nah... very much appreciate the feedback - but won't hold you to it! :D
Hate to admit I forgot to get one when i was Deans on Friday - There was 'I knew there was something else moment'!! ;D
So I'm planning on chasing the local model shop to see what they had in stock - I may just get one of each - the remainder will come in handy for something in the future no doubt.
Thanks again for the help. Brian
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Agreed about the shaft - mine is an 8" one and restricts the space available for the battery. When I was using two sticks of four D size NiCads, one each side, and the 385, it didn't really matter. The thing with the battery is, there's lots of space up front, but the weight of the battery determines the centre of gravity, and can make trimming level awkward.
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What should the all up sailing weight of one of these be?
I've read it somewhere, guess it was on the Model Boats forum.
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Oh nooooooo!!!, not that weight question again, right gentleman all go get out your conversion tables,
There's an idea - as well as a sub glossary why not have a conversion section (could use the steam section! ;D ;D ;D)
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You will want about 5 to 6 pounds ballast including the battery.
Ballast to the water line
Richard
Forget kilograms.
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never mind conversion tables stick to good old imperial measurments and you don't need to convert ::) ::)
Cheers
Bob B
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.... this is really confusing though innit? Is that 5 or 6 pounds in old money - or 5 or 6 pounds of sugar? ;D
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I only gave it to you in pounds because I could not convert it to kilowatts !
Richard
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;D ;D
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The entire thing should weigh 6 pounds. It will float nicely at waterline, just needs the weight distributing to float level and look good.
Going back to the propshaft - this must be one of the few times when 6" is better than 8".............
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For what it is worth I built two matchbox corvettes some years ago. They were both equiped with 6v monoperms and used 7.2 v 1.2 amp hr ni-cad battery packs.Speed control was achieved using Electronize esc's built from their excellent kits.
I fitted both models with identical receivers and crystals and controlled them both using a four function transmitter.Right hand stick controlling one corvette and left hand stick controlling the other.
A little difficult at first because the camouflage patterns were too similar
Unless you sail in very calm conditions it is sensible to make sure that the models are thoroughly waterproofed.I built false plasticard sub decks beneath the main decks.These were fitted with tight fitting lids.
The after superstructure was fitted over high combings.A bit of extra work but these mods kept most of the wet stuff outs and I was able to sail in quite rough water.
Regards
Joe