Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: herrmill on November 10, 2008, 09:43:31 pm
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There is a sneak preview of the new Italeri S-100 build over at IPMS Austria website.
http://www.ipms.at/index.php?option...id=302&Itemid=1 (http://www.ipms.at/index.php?option...id=302&Itemid=1)
Here's the Italeri catalog page with more details:
http://www.ipms.at/images/stories/s...tal_boat_08.pdf (http://www.ipms.at/images/stories/s...tal_boat_08.pdf)
http://www.ipms.at/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=302&Itemid=33 (http://www.ipms.at/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=302&Itemid=33)
Looks like this is really going to be a one nice kit to RC! :-))
Chuck
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Well that's as clean and crisp a set of mouldings you would hope for!
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Bringing back all the memories when you built that S100 ;) :}
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.......... nam... Vietnam! :'(
I thought that was bad, until i started a Graupner Pegasus III >>:-(
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I have to laugh at some who are complaining about the MSRP claiming "that's one expensive plastic kit!" By my calculations, if I want to get my TJ S-100 kit up to the level of Italeri's release, I'll end up spending more in parts & accessories than what it would cost to buy one of these new kits at the current pre-sell offer. All I have to do now is wonder what to do with that extra hull... ;)
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Nice looking kit!!
2 questions though, for those in the know..............how much in £'S and when is it available?
cheers
Ian
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Its around the £100 mark, check out Antics online
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Italeri 1/35 German Schnellboote S100 Torpedo Boat Kit (5603)
Due November 2008
Stock: Available Soon (Website:0)
(Prod Ref #65333)
Price: £99.99
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cheers, number one
Ian
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Hi.
I have got one on pre-order with Wonderland Models, who are offering it at £89.99.
Can't wait for this kit, but it was announced in January 2007!! so who knows when it will arrive???
Richard.
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Sounds like the new Lindberg kits announced over a year ago or the Trumpeter 1/200 Arizona that we are also waiting for. I understand that shipments are due to hit sometime in December but don't quote me on it. ok2
Does anyone know if Italeri will sell separate kit sprue sets to their kits like Tamiya does? I'd like to build a late S-712 version with stern tubes as well as use their parts to upgrade a TJ S-100 I have without having to scrape a hull if I can get away from doing it.
Chuck
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Does anyone know if Italeri will sell separate kit sprue sets to their kits like Tamiya does? I'd like to build a late S-712 version with stern tubes as well as use their parts to upgrade a TJ S-100 I have without having to scrape a hull if I can get away from doing it.
I doubt it they don't do that at present so I doubt the would do it for this.
I see they are to release crew members for the S-100
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Gingyer,
I have sent you a PM.
Peter
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got it peter will sort it out for you :-))
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129,00 EUR in germany %%
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I received an email today confirming the new S-100 will be available in early December & that parts "might be" available down the road. :-))
Here in China, Italeri's distributor Model OnLine is offering it on their webstore for the same entry price at US$166.67.
Considering I won't have to give my left arm to DHL or FedEx to ship this beast in from the States, I'd say that's a pretty good deal! :D
Chuck
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Here's a pic that appeared over on SP today that shows the kit breakdown.
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What are the dimensions of it? :o
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Huge :-))
1000 x 150 x 190 mm
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i had a good look at this at scale model world in telford yesterday and its a beaut the etched brass fret is nicely detailed,there is a lot of room inside for R/C gear but the deck layout may need some cutting as there are no easily modified deck housings to give access
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Nice but pricey! I'll wait for six months and a get a resonabley priced one on fleabay.
Is it a one piece hull Leaky?
( Surprised there's still nothing on Italeri's webshite. )
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Hi Martin,
From other postings on various web sites the hull appears to be in 3x parts, two sides and a separate stern piece.
the hull is glued and screwed together with plastic tie rods at deck level....i think?
Regards,
Ian
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As ian said a seperate transom and sides so its not a one piece as such and from looking again at the photos its a bit of a narrow gap that the mouldings give in the centre of the deck with no openings in the rudder area hence my comment about some surgery needed.All said the moulding quality and detail therein is absolutely spot on im sure it will be on ponds soon the fellows on the stand say its due to hit the shops around mid november so about now really.Mr Models (my local model shop-bearwood west midlands) says he hasnt had a delivery date though {:-{
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Found more pictures here:
http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=3454&mode=thread&order=0 (http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=3454&mode=thread&order=0)
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Three parts it seems.
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I bought one of these hulls http://www.nauticalmarinemodels.co.uk/extras/scale%20S-100%20product%20page.htm (http://www.nauticalmarinemodels.co.uk/extras/scale%20S-100%20product%20page.htm)(superb :-)) )
and am going to get the kit and put it on the hull
all going well %)
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Close ups of some of the parts to this really super kit.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff272/Turrets1/S-boat.jpg)
PE
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff272/Turrets1/S-boat-1.jpg)
Bowwave
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Apparently WEM have the kit in stock and are available at £99.95.
Bowwave
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Hi Gingyer.
Will your, what seems a good idea, of using the NMM hull work, at 1/36 scale its smaller than the Italeri kit around one inch in length and I dont know what in beam ???
Richard.
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Wouldn't glassing the interior of the plastic hull be a better idea? It will fit better, you keep all the detail and it will cheaper.
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The hull is made out of ps, using good ps-glue should do the job.
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The hull is made out of ps, using good ps-glue should do the job.
I ment glassing it on the inside to strengthen it for fast RC use,
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That's what I plan to do for my RC conversion. Other than replacing the that plastic railing, stanchions & some other fragile parts that can get knocked off with brass, it looks like the perfect kit. The rivet detail shown on the foredeck, tube doors & skull cap alone blows me away - my TJ S-100 hull will take a lot more work to make it look as good as this one.
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The hull is made out of ps, using good ps-glue should do the job.
I ment glassing it on the inside to strengthen it for fast RC use,
Ah ok, good idea :-))
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Hi Herrmill
What motors are you thinking of using on this boat, it has been suggested to me to use two Mtronic Vision 400's
but I'm not sure they will have enough power, maybe three, what do you think ?
Richard
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If this thing has a hull same thickness as the PT Boat, building the hull as a plug and doing a replacement fiber glass hull :-)) might not be a bad way to go as the PT Boats hull is close to 1/16" :o thick, maybe thicker and weighs a ton and it needed no reinforcing as it was plenty strong as it came from Italeri. O0 Heck you could <*< with it.
Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon
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Richard,
I'm going with 3 motors, either 400 or 480 direct. Is anyone going to set up their outboard rudders for the proper Luerssen Effect?
Chuck
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Hi Gingyer.
Will your, what seems a good idea, of using the NMM hull work, at 1/36 scale its smaller than the Italeri kit around one inch in length and I dont know what in beam ???
Richard.
I bought the hull but when I went to get fittings I found only dream arts stuff about and was not willing to part the cash they were looking for.
so that is why I am going with this stuff and if my sums are right I am only about 10mm out as it is a bit bigger than 1/36 ;)
I am not to bothered about the lenght anyway it is only for some fun :D
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Richard,
I'm going with 3 motors, either 400 or 480 direct. Is anyone going to set up their outboard rudders for the proper Luerssen Effect?
Chuck
Chuck,
Do really think that you will need that much power? I am asking because I am getting ready to buy the motors for my PT boat and I thought that 300's would work for that especially as I am going to use 3 motors in it also. {:-{ Now onto the next question as once said it is one thing to ignorant and keep every one guessing and another thing to open ones mouth and remove all doubt, what is Luerssen Effect???? {:-{ {:-{
Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon
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Andre,
Certainly 380s would work well on this hull as well as the Elco. Weight certainly won't be much of an issue. I also have the Elco in the box
Regarding the Luerssen Effect here's an excerpt from the Prinz Eugen Schnellboot Archive:
"Experimentation with S-1 and the intial batch of five additional boats led to immediate improvements and innovations. For example, beginning with S-7 (1933) the increased reserve buoyancy of a knuckle added at the bow prevented the boat from nosing into waves in foul weather. Another key innovation was the addition of a special rudder arrangement beginning with S-2 (1932). Port and starboard of the main rudder were two smaller rudders which could be angled outboard to 30 degrees. Known as the "Luerssen Effekt," at high speed, the angled rudders drew a ventilation air pocket slightly behind the three propellors, increasing their effiency, reducing the stern wave and keeping the boat at a nearly horizontal attitude. A wedge was added to the lower stern beginning with S-18 (1938). This deflected the water flow slightly downwards, counteracting any tendency for the hull to settle into the water as speed increased."
For anyone building this kit who aren't familiar with the Prinz Eugen website, I'd highly recommend it bookmarking this link: http://www.prinzeugen.com/SBOATIND.htm (http://www.prinzeugen.com/SBOATIND.htm). You'll find some excellent camo patterns & ideas for your build. :-))
There is an example of a build that incorporates the Luerssen Effect in rudder setup over at RCG: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=768419 (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=768419)
Chuck
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Chuck,
That might be a kind of nice item to try with the rudders, next did the S-100's have 3 or 5 rudders or did the two smaller ones help with the steering also?
Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon, but not as far as Chuck :-))
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Hi Guy's
All the Schnellbootes were fitted with a central balanced rudder
The two smaller outer blades were in fact trim tabs, these were intended to flatten the boats attitude when running at full speed ,firing the torpedoes, these were known as lurrsen rudders and only moved outwards through about 17.5 degrees.
One other positive effect of the trim tabs was the fact that when feathered out to 15 degrees they reduced the amount of white wake from the props and this helped make the boats less visible during night combat.
Hope this helps
Ian
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Well the kit has finally arrived and well worth the wait. Not going to be an easy build, the instructions include wording such as 'putting great care' and the best 'once you have tested your skills with the 20mmm guns move on to the 37mm!! Will certainly pass the winter months with the RC conversion work as well. Really looking forward to it.
Richard.
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hi Brockya,
you I think are one of the first to have the kit,
whats your impression of the kit? worth the money?
I see it's on ebay for £90 (£100 inc P+P)
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Congrats on getting the first one! :-)
Post some photos if you don't mind, & will you be putting a build thread?
Chuck
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Hi Gingyer.
Yes certainly worth the money, got mine from Wonderland models for £95.99, including £6 express next day delivery. Very many parts, and fine moulding detail, with a great etched brass fret that needs a lot of folding and bending. A lot of fine detail that will need careful handling on a working model. Though its long at 1 meter, its quite narrow just over 5 inches, so if your going to put three motors in the wont have to be too big, plenty of room for two though, we will have to see. The flag is strange a big blank white circle in the middle where the swastika should be !!! Will need a careful build but should look great when finished, so very good value plenty of build time to see you through the winter.
herrmill I will post some photos tomorrow.
Richard.
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thanks brockya,
I was considering some brushless motors in mine should go about scale-ish speed :}
I can answer the flag for you in germany and other places it's illegal to display a swastika so model companies do away with the
swastika from flags etc. :-))
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Hi.
Yes brushless maybe the way to go. Not much to photograph yet as the parts have been well displayed on previous posts. The hull is in fact if four parts, the two hull sides and the stern is also in two parts, the transom and rear of the bottom, where the rudders are, so will ned a bit of work to strengthen and make watertight. The black and white instruction booklet is supplemented by a small colour photo booklet to make things clearer. I fancy painting in the 'splotch' pattern camouflage although there is doubt this ever was used, but i think it looks good. It is shown very well in a diorama in the book German S Boats by Steve Wiper Published by Ship Craft, but I dont know if I'm allowed to copy it for here.
Richard
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Very nice Richard! Looks to be an excellent kit to chew on this winter.
Regarding camo patterns, are you referring to the jagged or tiger stripes that were used on the S-boats in the Baltic & Black Sea?
Chuck
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gulp, i've been bitten by it. just seen it at my local shop. john insisted i open it(hate him). sad thing was they had no prop shafts in 2mm. reckon anything bigger would be too big. so walked out without it. however just ordered 210 x 2mm Dia from westbourne.
what do you reckon on rudders? one central, two outer, or all three?
going back to mick charles later to spend.(maybe)
just seing if any of my little brushless work, seem to recall having problems with them.
paint scheme should be interesting
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Hi
got mine today from e models £89.99 plus £3.50 p/p I think its going to be Good kit to make ,
going to do r/c thinking to go brushless any ideas what ones and hwo many.
Thanks DaveW
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Oh stuff this I am away ti the model shop will report back soon :-))
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<:( <:( don't arrive till mid-week <:( <:(
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Well have stregthened the hull with Isopon P40, its a filler with chopped grass fiber strands mixed in, should be good and tough. The camo pattern I was thinking of was this from the German S Boats book, By Steve Wiper, published by Ship Craft, the photos are from a great diorama in it and as you see the line drawing doubts its use. Seems the real boat only had one steering rudder in the centre, the outer two are just for the Lurssen effect, already explain in earlier posts. How the model would perform with just one I dont know, maybe with a mixer would be the way to go,
Richard.
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Hi Guys
They had it in model zone in London at £99 but they have had
some faulty hull moldings the sides were waisted in and very very thin
and in a couple of cases broken through.
Those were sent back by the shop.
Be warned If you are buying this model check the hull.
It does look a nice model I will be getting one but not just yet.
Derek
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Do you know, I saw this paint scheme / camouflage on a boat a couple of years ago, I thought the modeller had done a terrible job!
I stand corrected! :embarrassed:
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13854.0;attach=58733;image)
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richard, heres an idea on how to do the shafts.
glue the halves of the fairings together. put in vice.cut a lenghth of 4mm brass tube to the length of the hole in fairing, put it in fairing, do the same with the next size down. file teeth into the next size down. put in chuck of drill, insert into tubed fairing and turn on. very graduallly ream out the faring. repeat for each size. you now have a 4mm hole thru the fairing following the shaft line.
now glue to hull and repeat the procedure to finish the shaft line thru the hull. job done.
now all i have to do is wait for shafts to turn up and hope!
not sure how i am going to tackle the rudder/s yet. probably use the centre only, its quite large. sugestions?!
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Just a thought on the motor setup on the s boats,i've done two in 1/24,but i found to use two motors the turning circle is too big,as the rudders are so small to use one centre motor it tended to rock from side to side but the turning was better,a mixer can slow it down on the turn,the best performing s boats i've seen have two props and two non scale rudders.
I left them on two main motors,one smaller centre motor with a micro switch, and scale rudders,but it means carrying more batteries,i'm thinking of going back and reworking them soon,to get them runnig better,they ran fine but not enough endurance for me.
David5
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Do you know, I saw this paint scheme / camouflage on a boat a couple of years ago, I thought the modeller had done a terrible job!
I stand corrected! :embarrassed:
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13854.0;attach=58733;image)
Martin,
Do you have any other photos of that mid-S38 version with jagged strip camo? I'm modding my TJ kit as a mid w/open bridge & looking for as many reference photos as I can find of other's work.
Thanks!
Chuck
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I only have photos of the model.
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Martin,
That's what I'm looking for & have sent you an PM.
Chuck
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:-))
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Hi Colin
Good idea about the shafts, looks good too, I thought of using two motors and putting two smallish, non scale rudders behind the props, see what ideas come up, thats the great thing about this site.
Richard.
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i've cocked up, line the fairings up to the skegs before fixing, i didnt. going to be fiddley to correct
defintly going to use the two outboard "rudders".
acess is a bit tight so i have cut out the "square" at the stern for access to the rudders
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shafts have arrived, unfortuntlly too short. plan is to lenghthen them with 3mm brass tube, slid and glued to the Graupner shaft. Mmmm!
cant think of another way to do it as i cant find a longer set up with a small enough diameter. any suggestions?
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colin
what is the sizes of your prop shaft
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the shafts are graupner 2mmdia @210mm long. about the longest i can find. they do need to be long to get the motors as far forward as possible to give the clearence. hence lengthing with brass tube. could get round it by dumping the A-Frames and realigning the shafts at more of an angle but then i reckon too much power will go into it trying to fly.
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With such a long shaft in your S100, make sure it's well anchored all the way along it's length.
I've fitted a 2mm Graupner shaft to my Bbay Seven lifeboat.... it doesn't like a lot of power!
I'm using a Speed400 6v and with the 2mm shaft, it knocks a bit under load, bit like an old car engine "pinking!"
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yer, figured that will be a problem, but where i lenghthen it i will increase it to 3/4mm to stiffen it.
as i am using brushless i am excpecting a lot of revs, which wont help
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Hi Colin.
I'm afraid I've done what you didn't want to do, realigned the shafts and lengthend the A frames, puts the motors into the cutout area of the deck, a lot nearer the stern than yours, used nine inch shafts that I had already. Have to save money somehow!!! Have to see how it goes, I live in the hope I haven't mucked it up!! time will tell.
Richard.
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will be interesring to see. at the end of the day its palstic so nuffing is permanent.
at the moment my shaft is 500mm long, Gulp. got to fing a way to shorten it, maybe put in an exta coupling to raisw the motor a bit, then the shaft will be shorter. not easy.
colin
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WOO HOO {-) I got mine today it is an amazing model O0 O0
Colin I read a post on another site that the person had used a propshaft
with the plastic/nylon bearings and melted with the speed the brushless motors
ran at I noticed that you had these type of shafts thought I should mention :-X :-))
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naw, the graupner ones are a metal bushing,(or sure look like it) woulld never, ever use plasic bushings.
colin
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naw, the graupner ones are a metal bushing,(or sure look like it) woulld never, ever use plasic bushings.
colin
Sorry :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
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whatfor?
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for saying you had plastic bushes :-))
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not a worry, saw the doctor and had them removed surgically,
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Hi
Colin can you tell me what are the brushless motors you are using and where to get them as i am go to start my S100 soon .
Thanks DaveW
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mine were from my local shop. they are Simplex Elite 3D. used them because they are what i had in the drawer. no idea what they will perform like, fingers crossed. have a read the the threads on brushless motors if you are bying. the on line shops seem to be the best, but personally i hate bying on line, dont trust it.
colin
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Hi
Colin thanks for that i have a shop around
thanks DaveW
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Anybody made any progress?
done a bit myself. got the drive sorted, i hope. used the Graupner tubes, with 2mm piano wire for shafts. the exposed end of the shafts were increased in size by using 2mmID tube to stiffen them. it also means i could use 3mmID ball races for bearings. these are held in place by a lenthg of brass tube slid over the races. this is now bonded to the hull.
i have decided to move the rudders outboard to inline with the props, all done and plenty of movement.
if i had the props could give it a try this weekend, but just about to order them from Deans.
also got to sort out paint as as the decks at least need painting before to much more can be done.
colin
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bit of trouble sticking jpgs in so do them one at a time
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Hi Colin
I am waiting for my motors to arrive before I continue.
I see you are using the 2 smaller outer rudders I was contemplating
using the 1 larger rudder and fixing the 2 smaller rudders
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hi, if any one's interested there's one of these just gone up for sale on fleebay with a bin price of £84.99 plus ten quid postage.brand new.
item no. 120348097626
is this cheep.not interested in buying but thought someone else might fancy it for christmas. :} :-))
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hi, if any one's interested there's one of these just gone up for sale on fleebay with a bin price of £84.99 plus ten quid postage.brand new.
item no. 120348097626
is this cheep.not interested in buying but thought someone else might fancy it for christmas. :} :-))
the Kit is retailing for £90 so not much of a bargain
would rather give the extra few quid to the local model shop O0
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cheers, i thought they were a lot more than that.,
i agree about giving trade to a model shop, by the way. :-))
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with you on that, stuff flea bay.
Just wondering, any one got thoughts on paint?
cant get Italeri over here
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I just picked mine up today, looks a good kit :-))
I checked the contents this morning and the hull is quite thick and sturdy when put together..... As soon as i make a start i will get some pictures up.
Russ
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I made a start last night and fitted the 2mm shafts and i will be using just the two outside rudders, fitted the inner torpedo tubes and sprayed the hull....
Russ
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how are you extending the shaft to motor? curious
and aint this kit bashing is fun
colin
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Hi Colin,
I have used 250mm long shafts, replaced the 2mm shaft with a piece of 320mm piano wire and put a 2mm thread on one end for the prop.
What are you doing for access to the motors? I am adapting mine so that i can slide the whole top deck back off.....
Russ
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shaft wise, done the same as you. access wise, fixed deck, but cut out rear hatch for rudders. have photos on this site.
may try her out this weekend. Mmmmm
colin
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Another build log here: http://buildthebismark.proboards52.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=otherbuilds&thread=1500&page=1
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The builds are coming along nicely, gents! I, unfortunately, have been forced to make some fleet reduction measures due to the CIC's involvement in fiscal budgetary matters & will be building my TJ kit before getting the new Italeri. <*<
By the way, I see that Cammet is developing aftermarket detail sets for the Italeri S-100 including a mid S-38 open bridge conversion & other parts. http://cammett.websds.net
Chuck
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My S100 is nearly ready for water trials and then final rigging etc :-))
Russ
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Bath tested today, sits well in the water and the Buhler motors fitted are fast on 12 volt :-))
Just some final detailing/railings to do.....
Russ
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Hi all.
First post of the year, the boat is coming on, even with all the gubbins, klaxon sound in the bow, jjc motor sound in the stern it floats dead on the water line. Ive taken some liberties with the paint scheme, but I like it and also moved the props, but it all seems to work. Can't wait to get it all finished.
Richard.
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Hi Richard,
How come you moved the prop shafts?
Russ
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Moved them for two reasons really, one I had two prop shafts handy and thats the length they were, and two it put the motors further to the stern so they were in the removable section of the deck cut out with room for other items in front of them so the weight was kept around the middle of the boat.
Richard
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I have actually left mine so that the whole back deck comes off for access, will run a seal around the edge to stop any water ingress.
I had a problem with obtaining the correct length propshaft to ensure the motors were central so in the end installed 2x ten inch shafts, drilled the ends out to accept 2.3mm piano wire 3 inches longer than the shaft and put a 2mm thread on one end.
I notice that Cammet now do the depth charges for the rear, alls we have to do is wait twelve months for Italeri to bring out the crew!
Your paint job looks well :-))
Russ
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Thanks :-) Yes it certainly needs some crew on board, spect your right about the time it will take as well !! and the Italeri PT boat crew don't get very good reviews, seems they are not very well moulded. I will use the cut out for every day use but have also made the whole deck removable if the need should arise, just need to unscew it. The depth charges look good, seems the boats also used to carry mines on rails at the stern, there's an idea.
Richard.
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Both builds are looking fine, guys! :-))
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Well just about finished now. Have had a water test on the local canal with a small battery, went okay, just waiting for a new battery from Model Power to see what it will really do. May have to change the props. Was a good build and looks good when finished, but will need care when sailing as a lot of parts are very fragile and easy to knock off.
Richard
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Hi All,
I'd like to introduce myself. Name is Jim and I'm currently at home in California. I've just started to get things in order for the build of my S-100, powered of course. My plan is to use two small 380 series motors on the outer screws with ESC's allowing forward and reverse. The will suffice for putting around the pond. The center screw will be driven by some brushless motor of unknown pedigree. So far, Ive made the torpedo doors R\C operable and plan to be able to rotate the FLAK. It seems as though the good model boat drive hardware come from the U.K.. Does anyone have any advice as to who is good to deal with and maybe a caution or two?
Cheers, Jim
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Action Electronics have a good reputation:
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/
Also try SHG Models:
http://www.shgmodels.com/acatalog/
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Greetings,
Can any body tell me what the round thing that gets glued to the deck just behind the forward gun is? I also have one and I am planing to power all three props with geared speed 400's and if this motor does not work I will try something else.
Richard,
What props did you use? What was the disappointment, not fast enough, did not get up on the plane or what, you post sounds like it was just not quite right as far as performance on the water. Do you think it would have been better to use all three props?
I am planning to use three 35mm props but I have not looked close enough to the existing kit props to decide weather I need two lefts and one right or one left and two rights. What I work through my mind is how to build the support for the center prop. I have had few ideas but still no clear ideas yet.
Andre
Over yonder in Portland Oregon
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Hi Andre,
The round thing you mention is a cover for the forward 20mm gun, it was placed over the gun tub when the boat was not in action.
Ian
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Hi Andre.
Started off with 30mm props and oniy had a 9.6 volt AA battery pack. it went okay but not not really fast enough to look right. Im going to change to 35mm props and a 12volt pack. Will get these at the Ellesmere Port show, only a couple of weeks away, no rush, at the moment I'm working on a carrying box, as the boat is quite delicate, with detail easily broken. Must say the Action combined speed controllers and mixer works a treat. Best of luck with your build mate!
Richard.
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Hi Richard,
Are you running 2mm propshafts?
Russ
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Hi Guys
Nice looking builds. I think i might just have to grab one.
Derek
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Hi Russ.
No 4mm, as there seems to be more choice of props. Using exposed shafts, with tube finishing just as it leaves the boat, the shafts fitted just right through the plastic supports. I used two of the three units from Nautical Marine Models that they make for their PT boat that I happend to have already. But I had to move the supports back from their right place, but it all seems to work okay.
Richard.
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Hi Andre.
Started off with 30mm props and oniy had a 9.6 volt AA battery pack. it went okay but not not really fast enough to look right. Im going to change to 35mm props and a 12volt pack. Will get these at the Ellesmere Port show, only a couple of weeks away, no rush, at the moment I'm working on a carrying box, as the boat is quite delicate, with detail easily broken. Must say the Action combined speed controllers and mixer works a treat. Best of luck with your build mate!
Richard.
So I should be alright with three 35mm props. I think that I will be using a 11.1 volt 2200 mAh LiPoly battery. Or at least that is where I am going to start with. I have been building the kit in my mind for the last couple of days, I do this so I can figure out what I am going to replace, what I am going to replace it with and how I am going to assemble the whole thing. And yes I will make notes on all of this so it doesn't slip through the cracks in the old brain. One of the things that I am going to look for is replacement hand rail posts that are made out of brass for strength. the other thing the I am going to do is replace all of the ladders, masts and similar things that might get broken off. I am also going to add running lights with red lights under the dash on both the bridge and the wheel house so you can see every thing that is in the wheel house. When I first saw the camouflage with the little patches I thought "Wow" that's the way I will paint mine, but then I found out that camouflage was only used on the early boats. >>:-( So I thought I will fall back to the camouflage with the blue-gray patches and was quite happy with that until I found this great web site ( http://www.prinzeugen.com/SBOATIND.htm ) with lots of nice photos, diagrams of the different camouflage patterns and read "Bogus? Probably! This camo scheme first emerged in the February 1999 Modellist Konstruktor magazine from Russia. Thus far, there is no credible documentation to support its actual use. Anyone with further information on this scheme, or any camouflage worn by the armored bridge boats, is invited to share."[/color] >>:-( Oh well I guess we are back to basic Schnellboot White which looks to me like a very very light gray. I guess I will have to weather it to give it some character.
Andre
over yonder in Portland Oregon
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Hi again Andre.
The colour I used for the Schnellboot White was Model Colour off white with a very small amount of silver added. seems to look okay when compared to photographes, but I then weathered it down so it didn't look to stark. Great idea to replace the hand rail posts and other such items as they are very weak for a working model. Sounds like your model will very good with all the working parts. I know of the doubt over the colour scheme I used, but I like it and in fact Italeri used it when the model was first put on display at trade shows a couple of years ago.
Richard
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Thanks for the replies regarding sources in the U.K. for drive components. The info was usefull, now can anyone recommend sources for propellers, struts, shafts etc.?
Jim in California
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Hey guys
A message from a Dutch S100 builder, look at the build review here:
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/bouwverslagen-schepen/72708-bouwverslag-1-35-s-100-schnellboot-italeri-36.html#post1165803
or at www.puffin.smugmug.com (hobby projects / S100) you find lots of picures of my S100
enjoy!!!
Greetings,
Maarten
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Folks, A quick report from California. I've restarted working on my boat as I just received a promising report from George at Sitec Props. I sent him all the plastic running hardware from the kit with the hope that he could reproduce everything in brass. He reports progress, only missing is the center strut that picks up the end of the middle prop shaft. We, George and I, hope when all is finished, will have a nice set of running hardware that will fit correctly. Hopefully he'll sell a bunch of them. I'll check back in when everything is in hand. My latest work on the boat has been installing rare earth magnets to serve as deck hold downs. It looks like I'll be able to easily remove all of the deck segments for radio installation and service. I'm impressed that Italeri, when creating a display model, made accommodation for those wanting functionality. So far, so good, waiting on a parcel from across the pond.
Jim
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Hi Jim
Do let us know when the prop set is available .. most interested .. the schnellboot is sitting on the shelf, could well be the next project :-))
longshanks
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Hi andre,
I noticed on your post of the 22nd Feb you were talking about replacing railings with brass. Are you aware there is a set of photo etched railings available - should be a lot stronger than the originals.
http://cammett.websds.net/
They also do depth charges and a re vamped armoured bridge.
A set of brass replacement gun barrels are available
http://modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/html/preisliste.html
Look at the bottom of the 1/35 section
Hope this helps
longshanks
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hi chaps, the brass stanchions are not out yet! when i spoke to robin from cammett a couple of weeks ago,he told me they were at the pattern makers, the etched brass rails you mention are the canvas rail covers, i have tried to talk him into doing brass props, he will look into it, later in the year will be a early S-38 conversion also,which i look forward to,
keith
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I'm sitting on my hands waiting for Cammetts' upgrades to be released.
Anyone want to buy a TJ S-100 kit? I need 2 of these boats like I need another hole in my head. ;)
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herrmill, i know what you mean!
keith.
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I hate to tantalize, but I just got word that my drive set has been completed and should be soon on its way to California. My palms sweat with anticipation. Hopefully all went well. The vendor was quite generous in that he asked me not to pay for the items until i receive them and are satisfied. I certainly can't complain with that kind of treatment. Hopefully more information and maybe a few pictures will be forthcoming.
Jim
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Thanks for the replies regarding sources in the U.K. for drive components. The info was usefull, now can anyone recommend sources for propellers, struts, shafts etc.?
Jim in California
Propshafts etc. http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/html/propshafts.html
Props. http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/html/propellers.html
Couplings. http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/html/couplings1.html
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Hi Guys
SHG are doing a full running gear set for this kit.
Derek
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i have fitted brushless motors to mine. bit of a problem on the prop front. using 2mm shafts. (28 Dia Props)first set of props wernt handed(despite ordering handed) actualy didnt go to bad, just not too clever at turning. ordered another pair, one was broken. so phoned up supplier, not at all helpfull. didnt help that i wasnt sure wether the broken prop was L/H or R/H. tried a pair of 24mm props
is any one out there using 2mm shafts? iftoday. the blades stripped of, plus i dont think the performance was as good as the 28mm.
so, realy want brass props, any idea who does M2 props. any one else gone down the 2mm shaft road?if so what props did you use?
colin
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because i was in a rush to build my boat { were getting a new lake, but the old ones got to go first, and don't know when] and didn't know who did propshafts thin enough, and as the angle of my three motors meant i needed shafts around 12-14" long i used 2.4mm stainless rod in 3mm brass tube, as didn't have the cash for brass propellers, i used the plastic kit ones glued on with epoxy on, yes its a pain if need to get off later, but i can live with it for now, and the speed is o.k if you remember to grease the shafts,
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Italeri are releasing a crew set in mid May,also Ive got a full listing from SHG of their running gear with prices.I'm going to use SHG and will pick mine up from the Blackpool show :-)
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i have fitted brushless motors to mine. bit of a problem on the prop front. using 2mm shafts. (28 Dia Props)first set of props wernt handed(despite ordering handed) actualy didnt go to bad, just not too clever at turning. ordered another pair, one was broken. so phoned up supplier, not at all helpfull. didnt help that i wasnt sure wether the broken prop was L/H or R/H. tried a pair of 24mm props
is any one out there using 2mm shafts? iftoday. the blades stripped of, plus i dont think the performance was as good as the 28mm.
so, realy want brass props, any idea who does M2 props. any one else gone down the 2mm shaft road?if so what props did you use?
colin
Could not find brass props.
SHG do M2 plastic props
Graupner Miniature Racing Props
2318.26 26mm Dia 36mm Pitch LH M2 £2.50
2318.26L 26mm Dia 36mm Pitch RH M2 £3.50
They also do shafts.
MIN 1201 Shaft & Tube Assembly 1.5” M2 4.50
MIN 1202 Shaft & Tube Assembly 2” M2 4.50
MIN 1203 Shaft & Tube Assembly 2.5” M2 4.50
MIN 1204 Shaft & Tube Assembly 3” M2 4.50
MIN 1205 Shaft & Tube Assembly 3.5” M2 4.50
MIN 1206 Shaft & Tube Assembly 4” M2 4.50
MIN 1207 Shaft & Tube Assembly 4.5” M2 4.50
MIN 1208 Shaft & Tube Assembly 5” M2 5.00
MIN 1209 Shaft & Tube Assembly 5.5” M2 5.00
MIN 12010 Shaft & Tube Assembly 6” M2 5.00
MIN 12011 Shaft & Tube Assembly 7” M2 6.00
MIN 12012 Shaft & Tube Assembly 8” M2 6.00
MIN 12013 Shaft & Tube Assembly 9” M2 7.00
MIN 12014 Shaft & Tube Assembly 10” M2 7.00
MIN120/M2 (PK10) Shaft Nuts only M2 M2 1.0
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Prop shop will do you some M2 props.
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Hi Folks,
SHG do brass props 20 - 40mm. They are M4 with a bush to reduce them to 2mm. (See note at bottom of prop page).
Hope this helps :-))
longshanks
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prop shop do replacement props at 2mm, and a variety of Dia
colin
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From Holland
Look at building review here from the Dutch builders and there first day of sail (4x S100 and more comming!
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/forums/bouwverslagen-schepen/72708-bouwverslag-8ste-schnellboot-flottille-italeri-1-35-a-98.html
Then for more pictures:
http://www.puffin.smugmug.com/gallery/8228150_HKaSL
My S100 is S-262....the most dirty one!
Greetings Maarten
PS for the best screws look at www.raboesch.nl - 2008 catalog the new D-type with sharp point (i used 35mm but that is very tight)
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lovey looking boating lake, boat jetty's, and your boats under cover, unlike our lake exposed to the elements, and little hands reaching out to snap fittings off your boat
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hi there, another greeting from Holland
i used in my build 3 * Speed 400/7.2V motors
with on the outer 25mm standard 3 blade Robbie 25 mm props and on the inner motor a hydro 26mm speed prop
I've build my own 2mm shafts, because of the length you need, my motors are right in the middle of the ship
rudders are the same form and size as the original plastic ones, but scratch made of messing
2 accupacks of 4600mAh 1 under the kalotte, and 1 betwee the engines an the rudders
I can use the outer rudders for Lurssen effect, but for now i left them just in the neutral state, and still the boot has a nice flow through the corners
here are two films, that shows my boot on high speed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7QxKWdDVGU&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7QxKWdDVGU&feature=player_embedded)
Made by RAF
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_h3LeqBq_E&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_h3LeqBq_E&feature=player_embedded)
Made by Freek
And finally the shot of the four boats together (two of need some more time, to create brass railings, and some weathering, but then these boats will be almost finished too)
The one on the left belongs to me.
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/2112/marinevaardagijmondheemb.jpg)
Made by Frans
(http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/556/marinevaardagijmondheem.jpg)
Made by Frans
greetz Ladybug
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Found some great original footage of E-boats in action :-))
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ec4XwB1Jg94
fair stirs the blood watching it :-))
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Hi folks,
I ran across a site that shows plans for the S-100 Schnellboot, detailing several parts of the boat.
Thought it'd interest you since the kit needs to be... a bit improved!
http://[email protected] (http://[email protected])
Cheers,
:police: Robert
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Found some great original footage of E-boats in action :-))
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ec4XwB1Jg94
fair stirs the blood watching it :-))
It just shows you ,how big a River the Rhine is,some of those shots were taken at Cologne,which is miles from the sea,
Wullie
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I have recently bought an S100. The port side of the foredeck is warped and despite gentle persuasion with a hot air gun, there is a really ugly gap between the side of the boat and the foredeck.
Can anyone suggest a remedy?
Many thanks
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I am more or less finished the "cosmetics" of the boat , however, can anyone recommend replacement torpedos, or at a push the contra-rotating props of same? - the ones suplied are a bit of a joke.
Next mission - propulsion!