Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: uboatbuilder on September 10, 2006, 08:47:18 pm
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Hi everyone, this is my revell type 7 so far. Its almost finished just some small details to put on such as rigging etc. But still waiting for bits and pieces to start the wtc. I know AMBERNBLU has been waiting on these. Im quite happy with the paint job because ive never done weathering before. Now just got to do 2 more for my dad and my little brother to complete our own little wolfpack. And if they all go well i might do another in quite an unusual splinter camoflage like the tirpitz.
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... in a word, stunning! Well done, it certainly looks the business! The job you have done on the weathering is superb too - will need some tips from you I reckon! ;)
Have you cut out all the individual (small) limber(?) holes? Can I also ask where you got the swordfish(?) motif transfers from - they are not from the kit. I've had my kit bits spread out today and made a start on cleaning up some of the pieces. I'll ring that contact of yours tomorrow. Many thanks, you'll be an inspiration to few others on here, I'm sure! Yep, I do like the splinter cam too, have to see how this one goes then may buy that other Atlantic version later.... Cheers, and all the best, Brian
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Hi Brian, Thanks very much. anything you want two know just ask. the swordfish is a stencil i made from friskit film copied from a picture on the net. just use google images and type in either 9th flotilla or german uboat insignia and it should come though you will have to resize and reverse for the other side and print it off then trace it onto the frisket film. An easier option is U.L.A.D decals however the fish is blue which i dont like and they have proven hard to get hold of, but try white ensign models or hannants i spoke to them and they reckon they can get hold of them. and yes i have cut out all of the holes on the hull sides and the conning tower platform.
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Hello D, your u-boat looks great, you've done a fine job on that finish!
catch up with you soon......... Chris
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The sub looks fantasitc Dino, it really does! I had only seen it partialy built and painted the other week , i think the colours he's used are spot on....Ooooh...i do like that Swordfish :o One of the other members has made his own transfers for a Itailian river launch, he purchased printable waterslide paper and printed his own. He can be found in your builds section if you decide to take this route. I have used Hannants own transfers in the past, but i found them to be of poor quality as they just seem to crack and fall apart after i soak them >:(
Voyager.
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Wow, amazing stuff! Love the rust effects :P. Yo0u must have spent quite a while getting it to look as it does.
For those you that don'r like drilling holes, ModelBrass does a PE deck, There is a wooden dek too that looks superb and White Ensign do so PE sheets too.
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... we were talking about the deck situation last night - just how crucial is it that the deck has every last hole drilled out??
Yep, he's done a remarkable paint job - half as good as that would make me a happy bunny! ;) Cheers, Brian
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... we were talking about the deck situation last night - just how crucial is it that the deck has every last hole drilled out??
Yep, he's done a remarkable paint job - half as good as that would make me a happy bunny! ;) Cheers, Brian
To make it work you don't need any of the slots drilled out really, (most of the trapped air will leave through the tower- you may need one or 2 extra holes towards the rear if your sub dives bow first), its just to make it look right.
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... thanks Mankster - sounds like its trial and error (and practice) probably then - as you say, to try to make it look right. I'm only at the 'drilling and cutting millions of holes out in the hull pieces' stage at the moment! Cheers, Brian
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Maybe a trick that can help drilling those holes out: I use a proxxon to scrape the inside away till the floud holes are open. This way you don't have to cut in your hull.
Greetz, Johan
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... thanks Mankster - sounds like its trial and error (and practice) probably then - as you say, to try to make it look right. I'm only at the 'drilling and cutting millions of holes out in the hull pieces' stage at the moment! Cheers, Brian
Brian don't be a squib cut them all out it will look better when completed, when I was doing the type XX1 there were 585 holes drilled and filed to shape, hated it took almost a month, and mine was a fibreglass hull very thick, but now it's finishedI am glad I did them all...
Roy
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UBOATBUILDER
Dino the aging has come up a treat, if you come over here for a visit I will put you up for a couple of weeks and you can do mine, I have attempted it and it was terrible...
Roy
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Brian don't be a squib cut them all out it will look better when completed, when I was doing the type XX1 there were 585 holes drilled and filed to shape, hated it took almost a month, and mine was a fibreglass hull very thick, but now it's finished I am glad I did them all...
Roy, I intend doing all the hull flood holes - its the deck I was querying - get the feeling it may end up a bit flimsy being plastic if all the deck holes are cut out, but there's also a full etched deck option available (White Ensign?) Currently ruminating! :D
And thanks Johan, I'll give that some consideration... Cheers, Brian
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Hi guys, Dino is my dad who also uses this forum username. My name's grant and I am building and painting it plus another two for my dad and my brother. Dad just thought you should know that it was actually me who has done it. :). The PE deck is an option but someone told me that you will have to brace it because it wont be very strong.
And Thank You for all of your comments. :)
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Top work there Grant, even more impressive coming from someone so young.
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Hi, I need your opinions. On the conning tower there is a railing thingy that goes across the swordfish which kind of obscures it. I have left it off for now but do you think i should put it on :-\? You can see the holes where it should go. What do you think? ???
Grant
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Haye D & G, what if you paint it grey, and on the area that covers the swordfish paint red? This might work?
Voyager.
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That was the first thing i thought of but it still wouldnt look right, and the railing covers the fish' eye and i cant paint that on the railing. It would look rubbish.
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Then leave it off completely, would not notice from a distance anyway!
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ok, i probably will leave it but want to see what the general consensus is first. so keep the opinions coming!!!! ;D
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Hi Grant... I noticed that 'dratted railing' section too, and it seems to have pushed the larger motifs on some of the other suggested sub finishes around to the front of the tower, which, to be honest, doesn't look so good!
Your swordfish on the other hand looks excellent where it is. So I would say, either leave it off altogether - or find a 'near' location for it if you must have it on the tower somewhere. Cheers, Brian
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I suppose the simplest way would be leave it off at the moment see what it is like when you sail it, you can always attach it later..
Roy
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Excellent weathering job and finish!!!!! :o
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Thanks magpie.
Grant :)
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I've almost finished paint job No.2 (my dads one) THANK GOD! :) So 2 down, 1 to go. They do look good next to each other and three will be sooooo cool! 8) Might put pics of both on here at some point so you can see how the wolfpack is looking. That is if you want to see them. :) Still not started the wtc still waiting on parts from subtech. Trying to find batteries to fit that are going to give me AT LEAST 1hr - 90 mins run time.
Grant :)
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Praise the lord :-X
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Will have to be li-po's if you want plenty of capacity in small boat like that.
This site offers a good selection-
http://www.himodel.com/
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Hi! Thing is ive heard alot about lipos blowing up, and catching fire. Some say they do some say they dont but theres no smoke without fire and i dont want to take that chance if i can help it, 'cos knowing my luck it will explode like a depth charge hitting it. ;D. What do you think of lithium ion? :-\
Grant
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Hi Dino, re our lopo's conversation. As you are aware, I am not up to speed on this type of battery technology but have made a couple of enquiries on your behalf.
I had aword with a friend of mine who's really into these things and they use them all the time for model aircraft. He has every faith in them and I picked up a bit of the low down regarding useage.
First and foremost, you must use the correct charger or you are on a loser any which way you turn. Secondly, never ever run the things completely flat otherwise they will generate gas internally and swell up. Thirdly, it is perfectly ok to use them with ordinary dc motors but you need a smart speed controller which will sense low battery condition and slowly shut down before the cells are completely discharged.
The real downside is cost, the whole shooting match costs an arm and a leg by the time you've got all the right bits together. He emphasises the point, that the cause of failure of these batteries is generally abuse by the user, normally running down way below the recommended 'flat' condition. Their primary role is to rapidly charge, accept and store a large amount of current for their size and weight and have the capability to discharge huge amounts of current in a short space of time.
A great battery, but at what cost!!
Regards..Chris
Ps, have'nt managed to get up the pond yet....soon I hope!
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Dino, just one last point regarding the safety of these batteries. They are the very same types of cells you have in your mobile phone. I dismantled one today and found the pack also contained the charging circuit to manage the battery condition. It has a built in sensor designed to shut your phone down before the cells run completely flat... thats why your phone simply shuts down abruptly when the battery gets too low, but the pack is not completely flat at that point. We never worry about our mobiles blowing up and catching fire and we even carry them around in our pockets! I think the battery technology is just fine....... providing people cant fiddle around with the charge/discharge parameters!
Regards. Chris
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So what kind of voltages / capacities for sizes are we taking about, eg 3v at 1200mah nokia 3330 size etc,
I have a few projects that require small light powerfull batteries and they seem perfect for the job, and also can you make them series for long stints or parallel for higher voltages (providing they do not cause the senerio as described in the 'meltdown' thread)?
Any recomendations etc
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Hi Warspite,
I am not that familiar with capacities/ sizes of cells but I could probably find out given time. The cells can be paralleled to give increased current or coupled in series for increased voltage.
For marine applications these cells would have to be effectively waterproofed, as I am informed they really don't like water. This is a big drawback from our point of view but nothing is impossible and with a bit of clever design, I am sure this can be achieved. There is a lot more information to be wrung out of this type of battery design and I will try to find some time to look it up as I am curious to find out more.
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made some enquiries myself and found out that if the cells were to split ,crack, they catch fire with contact with oxygen, which is present in water. the only thing that puts it out is to starve it of fuel, ie oxygen.mistreatment can cause this, ie overcharging or overloading. to me it is not worth the risk.
colin
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Ok everyone stand easy! I just found some info that would drive away an army of lipo enthusiasts, so I will let you decide for yourselves... it all looks rather bleak to me so i am not going to sing the praises of these packs save to say, most problems are caused my misuse.
I dont know how to attach things to these articles so have a go at this...
www.rcgroups.com , look at the section 'aircraft.electric-general and find the comments about lithium batteries... it'll scare you to death!!
I am outa here!!
regards. Chris
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Yes Lipo's are the way forward with these. A dedicated lipo charger can be had for £16 from http://www.galaxymodels.co.uk/new/results.asp?subt=Battery%20Chargers
A 7.4v battery around the 1200mAH rage will be about £20.Getting cheaper all the time. A lipo garurd to detect low voltage is a good idea from around £5 and allows you to use any ESC you have safely (or you could use an ESC with a built in programable input voltage sensor). I have been using these batteries for 4 years or so now, as long as you exercise care they are fine. They can be run completely wet too. But just like Nicads and SLA batteries you need to take specific precautions.
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Ditto what the others hve said.
The main thing is not to run them too low, you will ruin the cell beyond recovery of you do this. When I first started using li-pos in my model aircraft, I once ran a battery too flat (this was before the low voltage detectors were widely available). I was ever so lucky, because the plane literally died on me as it landed.
Li-pos can output tremenedously high amounts of current, in some cases upto 30 times their capacity. That is the danger, as if you short them out, or run them to extreme measures then you can cause fires.
However any battery is a potential hazard if mistreated in such a way.
I got some Kokam branded 8.4 volt 1200mAH packs quite recently for under a tenner, posted. Unfortunately all sold out now (they were on special offer).
Andy