Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Radio Equipment => Topic started by: jonny shoreboy on April 01, 2009, 04:48:34 pm
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Is this radio set any good for simple model boat use? I know there are several other brands in the 2.4 family out there, but this question is purely about the Spectrum DX5e.
I mainly ask because on the box and in the instructions it only talks about model aircraft use. I don't know much about the 2.4 radio equipment but I do know that with all of my R/C cars, I am only allowed to use 27mhz or 40mhz as 35mhz was ONLY to be used in model planes. I don't want to use this set if i am going to break any laws.. :police:
The other reason I ask is because I hope to join a local model boat club. With my R/C cars, it was a real hassle even with just me a couple of friends trying to keep track of which car is on what crystal. I'm hoping with the Spectrum DX5e I will be able to go to any lake/club and be able to sail without too much hassle.
Also, the Spectrum DX5e is really cheap and simple to use. Hopefully perfect for someone just starting out in the 2.4 family..
All comments welcome!
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There should be no issues running it in a scale model boat.
FE and gas/nitor guys have found that the huge rooster tails can put
enough water into the air to block or cause momentary signal loss.
The only real drawback to the 5 series, that I noted, is that it can only
recognize one model. If you want to run a second model on a different reciever, the
binding process has to be done each time you switch models.
Not an issue for the beginner. ok2
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One word, Yes...
I'm putting one in my Crusader race boat, see thread about it in the racing models section on here, and one in one of my new multi's, which will be even faster... (niether of which will have exceptionally big rooster tails, seeing as they wont actually spend any time on the water, they'll be flying over it ;))
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Guy Bagley (Wideawake on this forum) did a review of this set in mmb mag.
No problems for a boat,but not a sub.
So go ahead and float your boat
Mark
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Go for it!
I have a DX5E and four boats each with a AR 500 receiver. There is no need to bind each time I change models once the receiver has been bound initailly to the transmitter. Just a case of switching off one model and switching on the other.
No problems at all using on model boats.
Bob.
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Guy Bagley (Wideawake on this forum) did a review of this set in mmb mag.
No problems for a boat,but not a sub.
So go ahead and float your boat
Mark
Guy Morgan actually :-) however that's right. For most users the DX5e is a good entry into 2.4GHz equipment. Plenty are already in use and I think they're still good value in spite of the price rises due to the exchange rate changes.
The rebinding issue only exists if you use receivers of different types, specifically if one is DSM2 and another DSM. As Bob_V has found, any number of AR500s will stay bound. There are no model memories as such.
HTH
Guy
PS The full review hasn't been published in MB yet. It may well be in the next issue and there are a couple of other tips in it that I can't talk about until after publication.
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Sorry Guy ,hanging head in shame :((
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Make sure you get a mode 2 though so your throttle is on the left stick, as opposed to mode 1 which has the throttle on the right, confusing to a model boater, hang on,....check out MMI Dec/08, full article on them, if you want I can scan it and send it to you.
Robert
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Make sure you get a mode 2 though so your throttle is on the left stick, as opposed to mode 1 which has the throttle on the right, confusing to a model boater, hang on,....check out MMI Dec/08, full article on them, if you want I can scan it and send it to you.
Robert
I prefer mode 1 with my cars actually, my DX6i is on mode 1. Replaced the ratchet with a spring, and it makes for very easy adjustments to your throttling whist turning. With a scale boat or simalar this won't make any difference whatsoever, but it does make it easier with the cars, and I may switch over my DX5e to this too.
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Make sure you get a mode 2 though so your throttle is on the left stick, as opposed to mode 1 which has the throttle on the right, confusing to a model boater, hang on,....check out MMI Dec/08, full article on them, if you want I can scan it and send it to you.
Robert
If you could scan that article and send it to me I would be most greatfull!
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no problem, send me a pm with your email.
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One thing you'll see in the article from MMI (if that's the one you mean) confirmed by my own investigations is that if you feel the space on the front panel to the right of the slide switches, you'll sense an indentation. If you carefully cut the plastic membrane away, you'll find another slide switch. That's a Mode1/mode 2 selector. Useful?
HTH
Guy
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A big thanks to rem2007 for sending me a copy of the article. Printed it out for safe keeping!
Also a big thanks to everyone else for their replies. You have put my mind at ease.. :-)
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A big thanks to rem2007 for sending me a copy of the article. Printed it out for safe keeping!
Also a big thanks to everyone else for their replies. You have put my mind at ease.. :-)
Just to keep the advertising balanced, my full review of the DX5e will be in May MB published on 20th April. A couple of iteresting tips included I think!
Cheers
Guy
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I'll read that one as I subscribe, or should I say, my sister thought it a good gift for me. Keeps me out of trouble, wait I buy an Graupner RTR Hood, I wish! :-))
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A big thanks to rem2007 for sending me a copy of the article. Printed it out for safe keeping!
Also a big thanks to everyone else for their replies. You have put my mind at ease.. :-)
Just to keep the advertising balanced, my full review of the DX5e will be in May MB published on 20th April. A couple of interesting tips included I think!
Cheers
Guy
I'm looking forward the the next issue of MB because I think it has an article about putting a steam engine in a revell Corvette (the boat I am currently building!). I also look forward to reading your tips!
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A big thanks to rem2007 for sending me a copy of the article. Printed it out for safe keeping!
Also a big thanks to everyone else for their replies. You have put my mind at ease.. :-)
Just to keep the advertising balanced, my full review of the DX5e will be in May MB published on 20th April. A couple of interesting tips included I think!
Cheers
Guy
I'm looking forward the the next issue of MB because I think it has an article about putting a steam engine in a revell Corvette (the boat I am currently building!). I also look forward to reading your tips!
Quick plug for Colin's revamp of the MB site. If you look on the front page you'll find the cover and a link to the contents pages of the next issue and yes you're right there is an article on a steam powered Revell Snowberry.
Guy
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I purchased the DX5e for a Fairy Huntsman and a twin motor Cyclone. The first problem is that the throttle lever is not self centering and then I found that the right joystick is not at zero in the centre detent. I have to pull the lever towards me to get the motor to stop. It seems to me the only obvious option is to reset the potentiometerbehind the joystick. I hope this is a simple mistake on my part before I get to the Huntsman with a Graupner 700 motor. Has anyone sorted the centre postition of the left stick or experienced a problem with the zero point of both sticks?
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I purchased the DX5e for a Fairy Huntsman and a twin motor Cyclone. The first problem is that the throttle lever is not self centering and then I found that the right joystick is not at zero in the centre detent. I have to pull the lever towards me to get the motor to stop. It seems to me the only obvious option is to reset the potentiometerbehind the joystick. I hope this is a simple mistake on my part before I get to the Huntsman with a Graupner 700 motor. Has anyone sorted the centre postition of the left stick or experienced a problem with the zero point of both sticks?
Hi there
I'm not an electrics man so not sure what a twin motor cyclone is (possibly an ESC?) but I'd have thought you should be able to get neutral to the centre detent using the trim slider beside the joystick. It's also possible to swap the friction and centre zero components if you want to. There are a couple of other tips contained in my article in this month's MB.
Another thought. Some ESCs have automatic centring of the neutral on switch on.
HTH
Guy
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where is the best place to get one at the moment. UK
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where is the best place to get one at the moment. UK
A quick google shows a number of UK suppliers with sets at £75 - £80. Sadly the price has gone up considerably since my review was written due to the pound/dollar exchange rate. Mind you that's affected everything not just Spektrum.
HTH
Guy
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Got my DX5e from here:-
http://www.phoenixmp.com/acatalog/Spektrum_Radio.html
Excellent service.
Bob.
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Just to keep the advertising balanced, my full review of the DX5e will be in May MB published on 20th April. A couple of iteresting tips included I think!
Cheers
Guy
Great article about the DX5e, with some great tips! :-))
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Great article about the DX5e, with some great tips! :-))
Thank you kind Sir :-)
Guy
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Hi everyone, just a quick update..
As most of you will know the DX5e comes with a ratchet on the left stick as it comes set up for model aircraft. I wanted to change mine to have both sticks to self centre so I rang Horizon Hobby UK yesterday to ask about the parts needed to do the conversion and they arrived today in an evelope so I wanted to say a big thanks to John Norris at Horizon Hobby for all his help!
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I am considering one of these for a surface runner Revell U-boat, if it will work in a boat I presume it wont have issues with the rx being close to the water (have read that the 2.4g wont work IN water but hope that it has no issues just above the surface) otherwise maybe the rx can live in the 'tower???
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No probs at all.
This is one of three of my FSR-V boats, running a Spektrum DX5e, with a 10cc engine, at speeds in excess of 40mph. Rx is probably parlty submerged in the radio box, just behind the propellor. Bear in mind this is a sealed box, and half the long aerial and all of the short one are inside the box.
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/Wiki%20Park/Blurr.jpg)
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Hi there, I'm no expert, far from it, but from what little understanding I have about the DX5e, it works perfectly above the water, it's only when you want to run under the water that it won't work. Summary: No good for using in working submarines, but surface running ones should be fine!?
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Hi there, I'm no expert, far from it, but from what little understanding I have about the DX5e, it works perfectly above the water, it's only when you want to run under the water that it won't work. Summary: No good for using in working submarines, but surface running ones should be fine!?
To the top of the class with you! O0 ok2
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I am considering one of these for a surface runner Revell U-boat, if it will work in a boat I presume it wont have issues with the rx being close to the water (have read that the 2.4g wont work IN water but hope that it has no issues just above the surface) otherwise maybe the rx can live in the 'tower???
Should be fine Zed. As has been said 2.4GHz is a non-starter for diving subs but that's he only real limitation. BTW to be pedantic and in this case it is significant, the only part of the "long aerial" which actually acts as an aerial is the thin bit at the end (approx the same length as the short aerial). The rest is simply subminiature coax feeder. In your case it will certainly help if you can either mount the whole RX or at least the active part of the long aerial up in the conning tower.
HTH
Guy
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the only part of the "long aerial" which actually acts as an aerial is the thin bit at the end (approx the same length as the short aerial). The rest is simply subminiature coax feeder.
Didn't know that, they say you learn something new everyday...
Thanks ;)
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the only part of the "long aerial" which actually acts as an aerial is the thin bit at the end (approx the same length as the short aerial). The rest is simply subminiature coax feeder.
Didn't know that, they say you learn something new everyday...
Thanks ;)
I'm still learning and I'm ancient! If you look carefully you'll notice that the end inch or so is thinner and if you look even more carefully you'll see that it's the inner of the coax where the outer sheath has been stripped off.
Cheers
Guy
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well, thanks for that gents :-)
got a bit of building before I get radio equipment yet but aslong as the prices dont go stupid then 2.4 is the way I will go 8)
Rich.
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where is best price and place to buy (always willing to pay a little more for good honest service)
where to avoid!
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Guy, as my father said recently in his 90th birthday speech the problem with been ancient is that you can still learn something new every day, trouble is it is probably the same thing you learnt yesterday and then promptly forgot! Something to look forward to! Ian.
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where is best price and place to buy (always willing to pay a little more for good honest service)
where to avoid!
Not sure about the best price, but Micron Radio Control certainly give good service, and they are not the most expensive. Just bought a DX6i and AR500 from them, have had other items in the past.
Barrie
http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/
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On order from Micron Thanks
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Guy, as my father said recently in his 90th birthday speech the problem with been ancient is that you can still learn something new every day, trouble is it is probably the same thing you learnt yesterday and then promptly forgot! Something to look forward to! Ian.
Thanks Ian! I think I'm already at that stage. OTOH my father (93) forgets after 10 minutes rather than a day :-)
BTW are you on North Island or South? My daughter is in Mapua, South Island and my partner and I have fallen in love with the country since visiting a couple of times.
Cheers
Guy
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Just another quick update...
I have fitted the bits to my TX now so both sticks are self centring and was really easy to do and took about 10 minutes from start to finish. I do have one last silly question to ask though, which is more of a double check really but:
When plugging in servos/ESC to the receiver, under the 'bind' label it has it marked the the negative should be on the outside of the receiver? Also, it has the different channels marked with different aircraft terms, but conveniently one is labelled 'rudder'. Is this where I will plug in my rudder servo?
I am happy to post a picture if it will help.. :-))
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Hi there
Yes servos should be plugged into the receiver with the black (-ve) lead to the edge of thee RX. If you look you'll see +, square wave (data) and - symbols at one end of the connector header.
Yes, the logical place to plug your rudder servo would be to the "rudder" connector which should be on the opposite stick to the throttle. One other thing, if you want the throttle failsafe to work you obviously need to use the "throttle" channel for the ESC. Further thoughts on this and the hidden mode swap switch in my MB article.
HTH
Guy
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Cheers wideawake, I'll fish out the issue of Model Boats and have a look! :-))
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OK first of all how much for the parts to change to ratchet on both levers? and secondly, made the mistake of going to a choppy tidal mill pond at Stoke Gariel and then remembered to clean my boat out prior to the Open day at Exeter this past Sunday. No real big worries after initial shock of brine water left unattended, corroded grub screw on prop shaft, but still turns freely, problem was, set all up again after major wash out with fresh water and sailing fine for 15-20 minutes and lost control, plowed right into the dock, luckily right at my feet, I picked it up and shurt all down. then back on its stand did a reflash and all seemed well, I thought it could be interference, but the TX/RX are uniquely bound , so gave it another go and after 20 minutes, same problem, Any thoughts?
Using Action ESC and BEC with 7.2 volt power supply.
Robert
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I wasn't charged for my parts to change it over.