Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: kno3 on April 15, 2009, 06:15:56 pm
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Recently I came across a Cheddar water pump which I have fitted to my Puffin engine. I was surprised to see that the pump's piston is tiny, just a very thin metal rod, around 2 mm in diameter, yet the pump is able to overfill the boiler without a bypass valve fitted.
Since I am thinking of adding a water pump to my Graham TVR1A steam engine too, I was wondering if there is way to calculate the pump's displacement in relation to the engine displacement?
Thanks for any advice!
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The trouble is that the load on the boiler is varying depending on the load and therefore steam required by the engine. Consequently you want the water pump to be capable of overfillig the boiler so that you can then control it to suit the demand, either manualy or automatically.
As for size don't forget that steam is about 13,000 times the volume of water so the steam being used in the engine relates to a very small quantity of water.
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Hi,
Assuming the pump ram is connected directly to the engine and its strokes per minute is the same as the engine RPM, then you work out the steam VOLUME consumption per rev:-
Volume = stroke x (diameter/2)squared x PI x number of cylinders
and double the Volume if double acting. (PI = 3.142). To be more accurate you should also consider the thickness of the piston and the volume it takes up.
Looking up the "Model Engineers Handbook" by Tubal Cain, section 8 we have the skeleton steam tables (you don't want to see the complete steam tables !), then for a steam pressure of 50psi (gauge) water expands 414 times, therefore dividing the steam volume by 414 will then give the water volume per stroke. If the steam was being exhausted at atmospheric pressure, then water expands 1665 times.
Once you have the water volume, you multiply it by a pump efficiency value (I use 1.15), since the pump clack valves do not close immediately and the pump may be only 87% efficient. From the water volume you can then work out the pump ram diameter and stroke.
The above calculations will get you in the right ball park, but steam leaks, pressure drop across the regulator valve and varying boiler pressure will complicate matters.
Ian.
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Thanks!
I'll look up the bore/stroke and try to calculate this tonight.
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Actually I meant 1,300 not 13,000! to atmosphere of course but you're right anyway, it's nearer 1,600.
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I'm new to this steam lark & find this gem of a forum invaluable... :-))
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Something I don't understand.... OK theres a commercial water tank of 2 1/2" in diameter X 3" tall. ( <14.7 cubic inches) Recommended for 2 cylinder engines up to about 1" bore, including double action.... Using the above formula my single action 2 cylinder 3/4 X 3/4 bore stroke @ 2000 RPM ( 3.2 cubic in/min ??) would eat that up in less than 5 minutes... Where am I going wrong ?
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Arh but remember its a steam engine using steam, which of course is expanding. The total water content is not what the engine is using, its just topping up the exhusted steam consumed (in a nutshell) :-))
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So instead of using the factor of 414 you use 1665 in the calculations for water replenishment if indeed it is not closed circuit recovery ?
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Arh but remember its a steam engine using steam, which of course is expanding. The total water content is not what the engine is using, its just topping up the exhusted steam consumed (in a nutshell) :-))
I think I understand..... :-))
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Built from scratch to my own design, 12VDC electric motor ( in a dummy casing) powered boiler feedwater pump, 8mm ram x 25mm stroke... 30-15 RPM depending what choice of motor I use. Total platform length 11 inches....Bottom picture a mock up, water tank, separator tank & pipe work yet to be installed
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2125.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2124.jpg)
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If I understand correctly, the whole pump body moves up and down with the crankshaft and piston? It's looking very good.
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Exactly, I didn't want side thrusts on the ram seal so mounted the clack valves remotely & connected with a flex hose. Everything was made from metal stock apart from commercial clack valves & flanges. ...
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So the flexi pipe works as suction / force with the clacks (inlet/out) remoted (as it were). Nice idea I like it. Will the electric motor be controlled or just be "on" all the time.
A good set up as it removes a fair bit of load from the engine. I'm am doing something similar for my new flash steam plant (watch this space details to come) although I will be gearing the motor and running it from a ESC.
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So the flexi pipe works as suction / force with the clacks (inlet/out) remoted (as it were). Nice idea I like it. Will the electric motor be controlled or just be "on" all the time.
A good set up as it removes a fair bit of load from the engine. I'm am doing something similar for my new flash steam plant (watch this space details to come) although I will be gearing the motor and running it from a ESC.
Exactly, one hose with flow in & out. The important seal is the water/air interface which is a lip seal, the ram doesn't need a seal/O-ring as it's pure volume displacement. It is important to match the torque of the motor to force required to move the ram against full pressure. Roughly, I have a factor of 3 on the 15 rpm & a factor of 2 on the 30 rpm motors as it also has to overcome seal friction. Motor may be controlled with a timer or a level control device, I'll go with the timer first....
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What exactly is a lip seal?
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What exactly is a lip seal?
A lip seal is an annular "L" shaped seal with the flange towards the pressure side. Line pressure forces the flange onto the shaft to obtain a seal. There is also a spring around the lip to maintain it's position without line pressure... The joy is ( unlike O-ring or packing seals) it doesn't require constant adjustment....
http://www.lipseals.net/ (http://www.lipseals.net/)
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Thanks! Learned something new :-)
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You're very welcome, I have learned a lot from this site... Just trying to share... :-))
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Technische Daten:
Breite 20,5 mm http://cgi.ebay.de/Regner-20220-RC-Speisepumpe-Neuware_W0QQitemZ270523446323QQcmdZViewItemQQptZDE_Modellbau_Modelleisenbahnen?hash=item3efc743433
Länge 85 mm
Höhe 50 mm
Gewicht 130 mm
Pumpendruck bis 7 bar
Hub 10 mm Working http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Loy2qdXYaCk
Kolbendurchmesser 4 mm
Fördermenge 360 ml/h
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I'm going to be out in the shop tonight building one, thanks for that
Peter
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Hi..Great rember photo,,,,And ,,This one work reale great i have 2 ,,one in lady Jane
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~bfindus/index.html
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has anybody got any plans or links to a small pump of this type, one thing I have always had problems with is why you need a one way valve on the output side and one on the boiler the same as i have always been told water will not compress so they are both doing the same job ?
Peter
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has anybody got any plans or links to a small pump of this type, one thing I have always had problems with is why you need a one way valve on the output side and one on the boiler the same as i have always been told water will not compress so they are both doing the same job ?
Peter
I have installed two non return/check valves in series also. In the case of a single unit failure, you won't rapidly lose boiler level. My reasoning is for safety, both equipment & personal... Maybe overkill but in the real world of industry, check valve failures are common, especially gravity ball checks....
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Apologies about the poor quality of the vid but I think you will get the idea of the workings...It works/pumps well
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010875.flv (http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010875.flv)
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Very nice, but too bad we cant see it pumping water.
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Hmmmm good point, The problem being with no back pressure there is some syphoning going on until the head goes below the discharge outlet. So it's not really apples to apples... Let me see what I can do... ok2
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Don't forget the audio on both videos....
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010877.flv (http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010877.flv)
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Hullo KBIO......
On 22/10/2010, you posted a U-Tube video of your Regner steam driven water pump Best No 20240
At 4 seconds & 44 seconds it appears to be stalling, then is OK & pumping slowly @ 1.08 & 2.38 minutes
Was there a self starting problem?
Are they reliable?
Would you recommend them?
Could you also please confirm
The conection female port thread sizes........the Regner electronic catalogue does not nominate
Is there any provision for securing the body of the steam cylinder or and the water pump cylinder?...or does it rely on the tubing to self support the assembly?
Is there any reason in installing the asssembly in the horizontal plane?
I also had a feeling there may have been a similar video with you speaking in English.....If this is so could you please post a link
Derek %)