Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: DickyD on May 21, 2009, 03:37:48 pm
-
Anyone done the Model Slipway Sentinel and can tell me how easy/hard it is to do.
Need to do a kit which I wont finish in 5 mins but one that will not be to strenuous (sawing etc ) or to dusty or to heavy because of the emphysema.
Thought the Sentinel might do.
Also have to bear in mind my other half is going to have to pay for it.
-
A build article for this model appeared in the November 99 issue of Marine Modelling International.
-
Taken from Modelslipway's website
The kit contains a detailed glassfibre hull, printed plastic for decks and superstructure, etched brass detail which includes window frames, a vac-formed and resin-cast rigid inflatable, white metal fittings and running gear complete with brass propellers and a full size plan backed up with a detailed instruction booklet.
HULL: I began by cutting surplus material from the top of the hull, removing the high gloss finish with medium grade wet or dry paper and water, and finally roughening the top inside with coarse grade wet and dry.The freeing ports were opened out by drilling and filing. The bulwark above the longest two became quite flexible, requiring stiffening by clamping on two ramin strips. These were readily moved around whilst work progressed, and were only discarded after the bulwark supports had been added.
A pencil line marked the position for the top edge of the deck edge support. Four strips of 6x 3mm plastic were roughened on one side and the top edges roughly chamfered to fit the bow. I found the best adhesive for gluing plastic to grp was Deluxe Material's Fusion. Although only giving 2-3 minute work time it etches into the materials and forms a very strong bond. A second layer of 6x 3mm plastic strip glued with solvent to the first gave a good seating for the deck.
RUNNING GEAR: The dimensions for the positioning of the running gear were taken from the instructions, any indentations in the hull being ignored. Holes were drilled and the prop tubes, 'P' brackets and rudder tubes fitted, held temporarily in place with Sellotape and Plasticine whilst being lightly tacked in position with Isopon P40. When the Sellotape etc., was removed, the alignment was rechecked and when I was satisfied with the set up, they were permanently fixed into place with Isopon P40. With the exposed shafts and supported brackets I found no problem in setting up and getting the shafts to spin freely.
The manufacturers display model has the rudders connected to the stabilizers using the kit white metal rudder arms. (The kit now includes a diagram showing this option). Not knowing of this, I did my own thing. The two pins on the stabilizers were removed and drilled at the largest pin position to accept 4mm diameter brass rod. For accuracy I used a bench drill on a slow speed; too fast and the metal would have melted. I made two tubes similar to the prop tubes but only 15mm long with a 4mm clearance hole, and glassed them into position. The stabilizer shafts were pushed through the tubes and two commercial plastic rudder arms clamped on the inside. I discarded the kit white metal rudder arms and made new triangular ones with brass plate soft soldered to brass collets. All were connected together using wire and ball couplings from SHG Models. The rudders are connected together with the servo connecting to the inside of one rudder triangle. The outer point of each rudder triangle connects to a stabilizer arm.
DECK: The deck crossbeams and supports were made from the printed plastic sheet and 6 x 3mm strips: the dimensions are in the instructions. With the hull being a flat transom it was a straightforward task to measure their positions, trim and glue into place. The dimensions for the access steps had to be taken from the plan as their positions were not clearly marked on the hull. They needed fairly accurate measuring, drilling and filing as there was not much overlap on the etched brass steps to cover mistakes. Squares of 1mm Plasticard were added to the inside of the hull then drilled to add depth. Square of Plasticard were added to the inside to seal. To finish the etched brass steps were Superglued to the outside. As mentioned in the instructions an alternative would have been not to drill the hull but simply glue on the etched brass steps and paint the recess a darker colour.
The deck was in six pieces, (sheer and camber on this model being straight with the only curve being at the bow). I cut the curve of the foredecks as tight to the hull as possible, then trimmed them to fit on the centre line. This did leave some gaps against the coaming but they were easily made good with scrap. As the decks had to be trimmed to fit, the marked positions of the deck furniture became inaccurate - a point made in the instructions. With a full size plan it was a simple matter of transferring dimensions. The side decks are rectangles and were simply trimmed to fit. As for the aft deck, I cut out both halves and lightly tacked them together at the centre line with solvent. I then scored around the hatch fully cutting it out after separating the two. Leaving the hatch parts to one side I fitted the deck halves at the centreline, trimming each to the outside and leaving about 1mm gap between the edge of the Plasticard and the grp hull. As instructed the hatch supports were glued to the underside of the deck halves which were then glued into position. The gap between the plastic and grp was filled with Isopon P38 and when set filed flat, finishing with wet and dry paper and water. The hatch was a simple affair and when completed needed only light filing to give a neat fit.
To take the elbow grease out of smoothing the inside of the bulwarks they are lined with 0.5mm plastic. The edge of the Plasticard which butted to the deck was trimmed to be a tight fit, and then glued to the decks with solvent, and the grp with Evostik. When dry the surplus was trimmed back to the top of the bulwarks. There were 44 bulwark supports to cut, fit and glue into position. They all need trimming and/or chamfering to give a good fit at both bulwark and deck. When the supports had been added the bulwark above the long freeing port became surprisingly stiff and strong.
SUPERSTRUCTURE: This was a slab sided box, relatively easy to assemble. The bottom of each side needs to be checked before assembly to ensure a neat fit to the deck. Once the basic box structure had been assembled I sat it over the deck coaming and found I had built in a good twist! To correct I had to cut through the base frame where the sides and cross pieces met, twist the structure then reinforce the cut joints with scrap plastic. The structure was also too long for the coaming so I added two blocks about 3.5mm of laminated scrap plastic to each front corner which took up the slackness and stopped any fore/aft movement.
For the wheelhouse windows etched brass frames had to be first glued to clear plastic. This was important as the brass was purposely undersize and the overall dimension relied on the thickness of the plastic. The roof was glued into position using the side and front screens as height templates. Both side screens and front screen were then glued into position with the roof being held down with Sellotape until the solvent had set. Before they could be fitted both rear and forward side screens had to be filed to ensure the windows sat vertically and centrally.
The flying bridge and mast had 1mm square stiffeners added to the inside. Rather than cut these from the plastic sheet I used Microstrip, which only needed cutting for length. The instructions show how to assemble the mast and radar platforms using a simple jig to ensure squareness. The etched brass door and ventilator mounting panels were then Superglued into position. The plastic doors and ventilator backing pieces only just fitted over these brass panels. I found one edge would fit in and the other on, giving a lopsided appearance. The simple expedience of 0.25mm plastic cut to fit inside the frames squared everything up nicely.
FIXTURES: Of all the fittings the most noticeable was the rigid inflatable (RIB) with its large davit. On the RIB there was an awkward angle between the floor and sponson, which when built would prove difficult to paint. I cut out the floor from the plastic sheet and painted it and the inside of the resin sponson (orange and grey) before gluing together. The vac-formed hull was cut out and glued onto the sponson then trimmed to match the deck aft. Rather than thin and trim the resin transom, I preferred to cut a new one from scrap plastic. When dry the joint between the hull bottom and the transom was made good with model filler. The remaining items were easy to fit, although I did add an anti-slip mat from Scale Links etched brass and a windscreen from thin clear plastic.
The davit was all cut from the plastic sheet. It was not that difficult to make but it needed all the frame sides cutting to the same width to keep the box sections square. With the davit completed and fitted to the removable portion of the deck I found that the RIB was reluctant to sit safely in place. Photographs of the real ship show the wedge shapes which support the RIB hull outboard of the keel. I cut these from scrap plastic which when fitted held the RIB securely in place with the minimum amount of gluing.
Wire was provided for the handrail and the instructions provided good diagram sequences for making and positioning. I did find this wire required more heat than say, brass wire, and needed to be held in position for a couple of seconds whilst the solder set. Having drilled the holes, rather than make a jig as suggested, I built all the rails directly onto the model. Lengths of wire were cut for the stanchions and superglued into the etched brass stanchions brackets. Each stanchion was fitted (not glued) into the holes in the deck and cut for length. Wire was cut and bent for the top rail and end stanchions then soldered to the top of the individual stanchions. Using a scrap piece of card 25mm wide I adjusted the height of the top rail and re-glued the brass brackets as necessary. Using 12mm and 5mm wide scrap card I cut and soldered first the middle and then the bottom rails. All flux splashes then had to be washed from the model. The rails were removed, washed and painted, and after the rest of the model had been painted they were glued back into position.
PAINTING: The hull was sprayed with car grey primer and the plastic painted with enamel matt white. I usually brush paint Humbrol paints, so I was dismayed to find their new super enamels had poor covering quality. After four coats I still had white patches smiling through. I was unable at short notice to obtain any Revell enamels, but at Harrogate Show purchased some coach enamels from Phoenix Precision Paints. Although they were more expensive they had good covering power, and were easily thinned to enable a good finish.
FITTING OUT: I used two packs of 5 x 2.2Ah 'C' cells from Model Power Supplies, powering two of Slipways' 545 which were controlled by two ACTion Commander 20 electronic speed controllers. One power pack sat just forwards of the rudders opposite the RIB and the other forwards of the motors. Both ACTion speed controllers laid alongside the aft battery pack with the fuse mounting on top of the motors. The rudder servo sat between the couplings in an SHG vac-formed servo mount; I kept the receiver high by gluing a Plasticard platform under the forecastle but laid the receiver battery pack on the hull bottom, which I found ideal for that minor trim adjustment. The aerial was wrapped around a dowel and fitted under the forecastle deck between the bow and the forward opening. The rudders and stabilizers were set up by adjusting the linkages. The two ACTion speed controllers were simplicity itself. The transmitter sticks and trims were centered before it and the receiver were switched on, I waited 3 seconds and as long as it took to fit the superstructure in place and the model was ready to go.
SAILING: With my combination of batteries etc., in place the model was slightly heavy but by adjusting these items during bath trials I was able to get the model to sit squarely although the waterline was just over the boot top. I eventually changed the batteries and achieved the correct displacement; this made sailing more lively. It was good fun to sail, the action of the stabilizers making it lay over in a turn, just like a motorbike.
CONCLUSION: The model compares well to the builder's general arrangement drawings and also photographs taken when first built. Dave Wooley's photographs in September and October 1996 Model Boats showed some changes. Nothing particularly new, more a rearrangement of some deck fittings. There was nothing difficult about this kit, the printed plastic was accurate, and the one piece I did find short has since been corrected. As one would expect the only real trimming needed was the decks and the superstructure where it met the decks. The plan and instructions were good and the exploded drawings excellent. The drawings show the thickness of the plastic so it takes the guesswork out of which way the parts butt together. The kit is available by mail order from Model Slipway, 77 Arundell Drive, Lundwood, Barnsley S71 5LE.
-
Our club chairman has one, sails very nicely. If you want I can PM you his email but probably after Wicksteed now as I will have to get his permission to do so.
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll184/andyn_01/Random_Photos_by_andyn1.jpg)
-
Cheers chaps I have seen Model Slipways web site (build and review) but just wanted to hear peoples personal opinions.
-
Contact FLJ as he I think did the ground work on this one
Stav
-
Dicky,
I built one as my first kit build. Took me a long time, but I was working away from home a lot. There is no strenuous sawing or sanding. You have to cut the deck and superstructure from plastic sheet so there is not a lot of dust. Cutting the access holes for the props in the fibreglass hull creates some dust but not a lot. I found making and bending the railings a bit of a challenge but got there with patience and one or two goes. I made the stabilisers work but I don't think it makes much improvement to sailing having seen one with static stabilisers.
Having seen your previous work on the forum, I would say it is well within your capabilities. Stavros is correct FLJ did the prototype and was very helpful to me.
Go for it
Doug
PS One important tip - don't knock the finished, painted hull off the bench on to a concrete floor <:( <:( <:(
-
Little tip that appears to work well, when filing glassfibre get a sopping wet ball of tissue on the work, glass isn't water soluble but it does appear to catch the filings well.
-
I'm a bit late replying to this one Richard, but I built the Sentinel as only my second kit in 2005. I found it to be an excellent kit, no dust as it is styrene sheet, very clear instructions, and very helpful people in Jackie and Lawrie White at Model Slipway. It is also an excellent performer, and looks good on the water.
Peter.
-
Thanks for that fellows, looks like this is going to be my next build then.
Looks good Peter. :-))
-
Richard
Don't over-power it - it's not a planing hull. Two low-drain 540 or 545s will be best.
Keep the weight right down in the bottom of the hull (1 x 7.2v pack is fine)
The coupled working stabilisers work well but aren't strictly necessary - my original plank-on-frame version has fixed stabs and it stays bolt upright in turns.
I have a CD with many of Vosper's own photographs, together with some I took on a visit to the ship and drawings of the wheelhouse interior. Ask nicely.
There's a suggested radio installation on our website;
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Slipway%20Sentinel.pdf
(You could add a Graupner Bow-Thruster without too much extra trouble; mine has one.)
Go for it.
FLJ
-
Don't know how I missed this one Dicky....Good on you. At the rate you build have you not thought of advertising commissions??
-
You won't regret it, Richard, it's a lovely model.
Dave, as a matter of interest, I used a 6v 4ah SLA battery in mine instead of the recommended two 7.2v packs. My only reason for doing so was I had the SLA, and I would have had to buy the others. (too miserable/tight ok2) I weighed a friend's 7.2v pack and found the SLA was roughly equal to the weight of two of those, so the weight was not an issue. The SLA fitted perfectly laying flat, between the shafts. My understanding is that SLAs do not like being discharged rapidly, but by running the boat at a steady pace, I can get good running time from the installed battery, and its life does not appear to have been affected - it's now over 4 years old.
I am not advocating that others should do the same, as I believe the 7.2v packs would be a better option, just relating my experience.
Peter.
-
Of course the real ones are powered by a jet drive, and only employ the shafts for persuits, I would love to see one with a graupner mini jet drive in it, wheeee....
-
Andy, according to the information I have, the steerable stern jet drive is used mainly for slow speed, close-in manoeuvring. The main drive units, Paxman Valenta V12 diesels, are used for all other propulsion.
Also, see the Model Slipway web site http://www.modelslipway.com/sentinel.htm (http://www.modelslipway.com/sentinel.htm)
Dave Milbourn may be able to shed further light on the subject.
Peter.
-
Of course the real ones are powered by a jet drive, and only employ the shafts for persuits, I would love to see one with a graupner mini jet drive in it, wheeee....
Not quite........ Sentinel's Captain Chris explained to us that the main engines are used mainly to move the vessel from one operational area to another. High-speed pursuits don't happen with this ship; they call in the RN for that sort of op. Most often a "pursuit" will be at yacht speed from over the horizon, using the PPJet drive to toddle along at two or three knots and all that secret-squirrel stuff in the blockhouse on top to watch the target.
Peter F
Point taken, but at least you had the sense to weigh up the options - literally!
FLJ
-
Has anyone got any photos of the interiors of their Sentinels they can post on here for me to see ?
Most of the internals of my boats look like the aftermath of an Italian meal, and having just bought a shed load of Dave's goodies I would like some ideas of the best layout for this model.
-
Dickie
Here's mine. The esc and rx board has been taken out while I do some repairs. I put it in its place for you to see where I have fitted it. The space between the speed controllers and the RX was taken up by a mixer but I modified th TX to two centre sprung sticks. Not sure which is best. {:-{ The rudder servo is connecte by an extension cable to the RX. The rods over the servo connect the rudder to the working stabilisers.
HTH
Doug
-
Forgot to say the RX battery sits under the esc board.
Doug
-
Thanks Doug thats very helpful. :-))
-
Dickie
Just to add I use two 7.2v packs, sitting between the prop shafts and aft. With the RIB weight on starboard I offset the rear battery to port slightly.
Cheers
Doug
-
Richard, here are a couple of photos of the insides of my Sentinel, after several years hard operations as evidenced by some rust on the railings, since removed. As mentioned in a previous post, I used a 6v 4ah SLA battery, simply because I had a number of them. The 7.2v packs would probably be a better option.
Peter.
-
Thanks Peter. :-))
-
Richard
My original plank-on-frame model of Sentinel has one 7.2v D-size pack which fits between the prop shafts and powers everything via a strip-board buzz-bar (embryonic P92?). The ESCs are just ahead of the motors/gearboxes, with the Rx and mixer on a ply plate above the ESCs. The ESC for the thruster is ahead of the main ESCs, and everything is kept as near to the bottom of the hull as possible.
FLJ
-
Cheers Dave and thank you for your excellent service delivering my techno gubbins (not personally). Do I now qualify for membership of your fan club ? {:-{
-
That's up to you, matey! You've paid the membership fee now............
FLJ
-
FLJ, is it OK to put those photos of original Sentinel you sent me on CD here?
( NB. Is it OK to move this over the the build section Dicky? )
-
If you like Martin, though I haven't started yet. :embarrassed:
-
FLJ, is it OK to put those photos of original Sentinel you sent me on CD here?
( NB. Is it OK to move this over the the build section Dicky? )
Only if it's of my model. The ones of the full-size vessel are copyright of Vosper-Thorneycroft.
FLJ
-
Ha! Vosper-Thorneycroft. What they gonna do about it?!!! <*<
-
Right I made a start this week.
So far I have installed the motors (2x550 MFA), the prop shafts and couplings, 2 rudders, 2 stabilisers and the rudder servo.
The stabilisers were a bit of hassle as Model Slipway allow for fixed stabilisers in the kit but do tell you how to install working ones.
They dont unfortunately supply the parts or dimensions to do the job. However it worked out OK.
I am just waiting for two tiller arms from Cornwall Model Boats so that I can connect it all up.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0038.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0039.jpg)
This is not going to be a fast kit.
I have to trim up the hull and cut out the free ports etc next and me and GRP dust don't get on well.
-
At last....I wondered what had happened Richard. Good, solid start my friend..How do those stabilizer thingy's work? Not seen them before!!
Barry
-
Hi Barry I will take another photo of them when they are connected, but basically they are extra rudders on the side of the ship that don't actually move as far as the normal rudders.
-
Barry and Richard, here is a - rather crude - diagram of how I've set up the linkages in my Sentinel, using home made tiller arms and cranks.The photo may give you the general idea. As Richard said, the stabilisers don't move as much as the rudders, but they are quite effective. Note that all the linkages have adjustments on them, so the throws can be set up to suit, and also note the supports for the stabiliser linkages near the servo, to prevent bowing of the rods.
It's looking good, Richard. I'm looking forward to further updates.
Peter.
-
Now that is very interesting. Thanks Peter and Richard for the explanation. :-)) :-))
-
Just for you Dicky
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6134.0
:-)) %) %)
-
Just for you Dicky
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6134.0
:-)) %) %)
Bit late now you bu**er. >>:-(
-
Today I completed the linkage fo the rudders and the stabilizers.
Acouple of photos for Barry to give you a rough idea how they work.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0042.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0040.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0041.jpg)
Next week the fun is really going to start, this is what faces technonerd,no I dont want any advice I have a phone number.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0043.jpg)
-
Thanks Richard. I recognise some of those Action bits...Coming along..
-
Today I did the really dangerous part for a colour blind person, electrical gubbins.
Anyway I fitted a P94 Lite
2 No. P95
1 No. P92
All from ACTion R/c Electronics.
www.action-electronics.co.uk
Followed the instructions to the letter then took a photo of it.
I then e'mailed the photo to FLJ who checked my wiring and said " Go for it ".
So I went for it and after a couple of minor adjustments it works fine.
Does what it says on the box.
Now all I've got to do is stop John (Bluebird) trying to convince me to experiment with it.
I'm really pleased because although the wiring isn't immaculate it's the first one of my boats that doesn't look as though I've used it for serving up an Italian meal.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0046.jpg)
-
Dicky,
Now that is a great improvement.
Even I can make out the connections.
Bob
-
Well done Richard. You sound pleased as well. O0
I've got my P94 to go in soon, so I know where to come now. :-))
ken
-
Yesterday I made up and fitted the deck supports, these took quite a whiile as they are constructed of I beams and you have to make the I beams first.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0047.jpg)
Today I added extra E'poxy to the joints between the supports and the hull.
I then scribed in the decking and fixed it.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0048.jpg)
Enough for one day, e'poxy and glue fumes on a warm day not good.
-
The first job was to fill any gaps around the edge of the deck, fortunately very few.
The next job was one of my favorites, the bulwark braces and the handrail. %)
Thankfully that went quite well with only a little trimming of the braces to be done.
Now I have started on the superstructure.
I am finding this an enjoyable kit so far with very little extra trimming to be done.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0050.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0051.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0049.jpg)
-
Richard, a word of advice concerning the rear hatch. Try and find a way of ensuring water does not enter the hull via the hatch on the rear deck. When I built my Sentinel, I was somewhat inexperienced in such matters, and have since found that water can get into the hull via this opening. Sentinel has a respectable turn of speed, and if you stop quickly, the stern wash can come over the transom onto the rear deck, and into the hull. Had I known it at the time, I think I would have attempted to devise a way of making an internal coaming to try and prevent this happening. It would be much easier to do this while it's still under construction. I have not tried a retro fit, as it were, instead I reduce speed gradually to prevent water coming over the stern.
Peter.
-
Thanks Peter will bear that in mind.
-
Wow, looks like rapid progress to me!
When you are building what does your doggy do?
-
Lies at the bottom of the stairs to make sure no one creeps up and attacks me, Pointy.
Saw your reply about doggy do and it had me a bit worried until I read it properly.
-
{-) {-)
Maybe I should have put that another way!
Give him a stroke from me- and I mean the nice hand type not the medical condition!!
-
Have been busy ding the upper superstructure and the wheel house roof and windows.
It doesn't sound a lot but there is a considerable amount of work involved.
This is a really excellent kit but it cannot be rushed as every part you make has to interlock with another so all the parts need to be dry fitted first before gluing to make sure everything is spot on.
The few brass etched fittings that I have fitted so far are really good quality [window frames so far ].
I think I am getting to the stage where some of the painting will need to be done soon, for example the underside of the mast before it is fitted, as it will be awkward to paint once it is fixed.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0052.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0053.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0054.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0055.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0056.jpg)
-
Definitely paint the under side of the mast Richard, it IS awkward to get at otherwise, I speak from experience O0
I agree with you regarding the quality of the kit and fittings. You're making good progress and it's looking first class :-))
Peter.
-
Spent the day today doing the brass work to the mast.
Glad I forked out for a new soldering station from Maplins, it makes the job so much easier.
The mast is made up of plastic, brass, etched brass and white metal. Interesting.
Still all went well.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0057.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0058.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0059.jpg)
-
That looks good Richard. Putting something like that together can be vert satisfying.
Just don't stick it on the model back to front!
Colin
-
I have fixed the mast ( the right way round ) after spraying the underside.
Next I assembled the jet drive, the platform above it and the steps up to the deck
I then removed rudders, stabillisers, and prop shafts and sprayed the hull.
I then fixed the black vinyl boot topping.
I then replaced all the removed parts after painting where necerssary and checked it all still worked. :-))
Next I started on the handrails, no stanchions everything is soldered.
As soldering is not my thing really, it seems to be taking forever.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0060.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0061.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0062.jpg)
Four days and still not finished, so many small bits to solder and I have a shaky left hand.
Really glad I got the new soldering iron though.
-
Looking really good Dicky.
Give Duke a pat from me!
-
Thanks Pointy, will do when he's not so busy.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/duke12-1.jpg)
-
Guarding that piece of grass very well I see, anyone wants to nick the grass underneath him they'll have a hard time ;)
Build is progressing very well, far faster than I work...
-
Looking good, Richard :-)) You're making good progress.
Peter.
-
Looks like he's already eaten Andy Murray.....
P.S. Nice boat Richard.
Colin
-
Sentinel coming up great Richard, wish I could say the same for my Snowberry. Our wolf is now as big as a house and the farm shop up the road gives us cow leg bones now and then. When my 10 year old had his birthday end of June, one of the kids asked where the bone had come from, I told him it was the boy who'd been playing over at ours the other day {-).
Got a proper you know what from you know who and skulked back to my barbeque duties.
Robert
-
Finished off the handrails today thank goodness.
Still enjoying the kit though. :-)
Back to some plastic work tomorrow.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0063.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0064.jpg)
-
Richard, was the supplied handrail wire brass, or steel, as mine was? I replace most of mine with brass, as we sail in salt water.
Peter.
-
It was all brass Peter.
-
Over the last few days I have made the davit for the rhib and have started fitting the etched brass and white metal fittings.
This involved an awful lot of very short lengths of brass wire for the door and hatch catches all bent at right angles.
The etched brass frames for the doors and other etched brass is extremely good quality.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0065.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0066.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0067.jpg)
-
Have been fitting lots of white metal a etched brass fittings but still have lots more to do.
Some of them have been painted prior to fitting.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0070.jpg)
I have also fitted the bridge screen and given the superstructure its first coat of paint.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0068.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0069.jpg)
Still lots to do.
-
Richard,
She is looking really good now.......by the way, Mrs Footski has fallen for your dog!! :-)) :-))
-
Hi Dicky,
Looking good! :-))
Are you using can spray paint , air brush, air gun, brush...... roller?
-
Richard,
She is looking really good now.......by the way, Mrs Footski has fallen for your dog!! :-)) :-))
Hi Barry, tell Mrs Footski I'm thinking about starting a Duke fan club. ok2
-
Hi Dicky,
Looking good! :-))
Are you using can spray paint , air brush, air gun, brush...... roller?
Hi Martin I'm using good old Plastikote spray cans as usual. Detailing will be by brush.
-
Yet another fantastic build from the DickyD workshop.
Out of interest how comes she is twin propped and has a jet drive unit at the rear aswell??
-
Hi Jay, they apparently use the jet drive for poodling around and the twin props if they are in a hurry. :-))
-
.....starting to get that antsy feeling now eh Richard, looks great. Can just imagine how she'll perform.!
Robert
-
John, if you go back to the photos with replies 3 and 8 in this thread, you'll see how well they do go.
Peter.
-
Who's John, Peter ? {:-{
-
Oops :embarrassed: I meant Robert %%
Peter.
-
Have been fixing small fittings (loads of them) and painting them and the handrails.
I am still waiting for the paint for the decks as I was sent the wrong shade of green.
I have finished the rhib but wont be fitting it until the deck is painted.
Have unmasked the windows after painting the frames.
Have fixed the screen wipers (very fiddly) a nice detail.
Still thoroughly enjoying the build and a way to go yet.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0075.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0076.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0077.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0081.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0082.jpg)
-
Looking better by the day Richard.. :-)) :-))
-
I'm enjoying the build, Richard, :-)) it brings back fond memories of an excellent kit, which seems to have been improved in some areas since I built mine, such as replacing steel rod with brass.
Peter.
-
Thanks chaps I am really enjoying this kit and would recommend it to anyone.
Had a couple of small problems but Jackie and Laurie were really helpful and sorted them out for me.
Might have to get another Model Slipway kit next time depending on the state of wifes credit card. :-))
-
So what you thinking of next?
Bob
-
I was well impressed with the assurance class tug when i saw it at the doncaster show
-
Fitted lots more fittings.
Painted the deck and the detail work.
Fixed the decals.
Tidied up the internal electrics.
Still have a few bits to add and I need to varnish it.
Will have to start thinking about what to do next once wifes bank balance has caught up with my wish list.
Will have to make do improving the fleet in the mean time.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF0085.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2343.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2344.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2345.jpg)
-
Hi Richard,
congratulations this is a great looking model. I hope you will post some picture when you put her into the water.
Best
Wilhelm
-
Hi Wilhelm how are you ?
I shall put photos on here "if" she floats.
Little way to go yet, but am dying to try out my ACTion P94 to see how it behaves.
-
Impressive!
How did you make the control panel?
-
Impressive!
How did you make the control panel?
Etched brass Martin, Just needed painting.
-
Outsatanding Richard!
-
Yet another cracking model from you Richard; well done, mate!
Danny
-
Hi Richard,
I am fine and I hope you too. I hear that your emphysema is still bothering you. Don't forget to wear a good breathing mask in the dust. :-))
I am running similar dual ESCs with intergrated mixers in two of my boats (Rembertiturm and Tsekoa II) and love it. I could have saved the bow thruster in the Tsekoa.
Anyway, good to see that you are in action again and looking forward seeing the boat on the water.
All the best
Wilhelm
-
Windy day and she sailed great.
P94 excellent, does exactly what it says on the box, thanks Dave.
So many photos didnt know which ones to use.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2363.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2367.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2368.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2366.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2369.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Sentinel/DSCF2371.jpg)
-
Dicky,
There no water on the cabin roof, did John not show you how to "launch" a model ;)
Riggers
-
Dicky,
There no water on the cabin roof, did John not show you how to "launch" a model ;)
Riggers
He did, but I was not going to throw it in like he does.
-
It's looking nice that Dicky mate!
Paul... :-)
-
She looks great Richard, well done! Glad to hear that your P94 works well, I've just about got one mounted in my new project, and it seems to work well on the bench, and to a limited degree, in the domestic test tank. Yes, you've guessed it, it's another tug!!!
Danny
-
Another beauty Richard....... :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
-
Very nice looking model. Nicely done!
-
Tres beau modele, félicitations!
Very nice boat congratulations!
-
Thanks for the comments chaps. :-))
-
Great job, Richard, it looks marvellous on the water :-)) It also seems to have quite a turn of speed.
Peter.
-
Its about as fast as my PT boat Peter.
How did you stop the water getting in your rear hatch ?
-
Hello
How is weight your Sentinel empty ? and in order (witch motor, battery and so..)
Thank
Daniel
-
Hi Daniel
I used 2 direct drive MFA 550 motors.
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/standard_motors.html
The electrical system is the same as the diagram on ACTion Electronics web site'
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Slipway%20Sentinel.pdf
And she floats with the water line just submerged.
Hope this helps
-
Thank for your help
Daniel
-
Sorry I forgot the battery.
One 7.2V 4600mAh racing pack
http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/batteries.html
-
Dicky
How much water are you getting in and are you sure it's coming in via the rear hatch? I put some vaseline on the inner shelf just to be sure.
Doug
-
Pretty sure its getting in through the rear hatch as the back of the boat gets really wet.
I have alredy put vaseline round the hatch for next time.
I have also put a bulkhead in front of the rudders as the outer tube is not very high.
-
Very difficult, Richard, I think I mentioned the problem in an earlier post in this thread. Vaseline helps, but I found that easing off the throttle slowly helps prevent the stern wash coming over the rear deck.
Peter.
-
Richard,
thank for the adress for batteries, their prices are very interessing
daniel
-
I use them all the time Daniel, they are cheap and the deliveries are quick. :-))
-
Excellent work! :-)) Looks great on the water, too.
The Vosper Sentinel design was actually used as the basis for the US Coast Guard's 110-foot Island-class cutter (which I'm currently modelling). You can definitely see the resemblance between the two designs, though there seem to be some differences in the hull form as well as the superstructure layout.
-
hello there
just a quick note for Richard (Dicky) :-)
One of the possible reasons that there was a bit of water in the bottom of the boat, I had heard from various sources that this particular model was slightly 'unstable' and there was a fair wind blowing on that Sunday - so when I launched the model - prior to letting it go I did what I call a roll test - where I roll the boat on its side so that the water is half way up the superstructer and then let it go. If this model rights itself - we know we have a fair chance of knowing it will right itself if it is blown over a fair degree out in the middle of the lake.
So.......when I rolled it over on its side, Dicky has built half inch high combings on the inside of the superstructure, and, the water would have been well above these when I rolled her :-))
It is a lovely well built/performing model, a credit to Dicky's skills.
It was brilliant fun meeting Dicky and his better half - although I do believe she has more modelling knowledge than Dicky - because she was the one who sorted out the frequency board for me...and sorted out the crystals and the batteries.......we really enjoyed meeting Dicky and his wife....sad that we couldnt meet up again, just one of those things.
aye
john
-
(Wlcome back John!)
-
Sorry I forgot the battery.
One 7.2V 4600mAh racing pack
http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/batteries.html
Hi DD.
That's an impressive turn of speed on the 7.2v pack!
Do you have the gearbox fitted to the motors or is it just the motor fixed to the shaft? MSW seem to recommend the gearbox on the mFA motors saying it allows the props to turn easier. However, I suspect the gearbox takes a lot off the top end speed wise.
-
I went direct drive with 2/ 550 MFA motors.
Works great even at slow speeds with the ACTion gubbins installed.
-
Couldn't find anywhere where MSW suggest using a gear box, their recommended motors are two 540 motors direct drive.
SENTINEL Cutter MS-12 2 of Pack 3
Pack 3 540/1 motor (4.5-15v) = £7 + coupling = £6.50 £13.50
-
Sorry I forgot the battery.
One 7.2V 4600mAh racing pack
http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/batteries.html
What sort of run time do you get with a 7.2V battery pack? I always had the impression they had much less endurance than lead/acid cells, at least when used with larger models.
-
Not that sure, I ran her for about 30mins and she was still going strong.
-
The main drive units, Paxman Valenta V12 diesels, are used for all other propulsion.
Peter.
That boat should go like a train!
Thats the same engine as used in the first Inter City 125s
-
Hi Richard I have spent the past hour going over your pages on your build and I must say you have done a wonderful job the boat looks first class so well done,I have built two of model slipways boats and really enjoyed building.
Once again Richard a first class job.
-
Thanks Wallace, I am enjoying your build.
-
Thanks Richard not been doing much for a few weeks and having just had another opp got to take things easy and its getting abit cold now,