Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: Nomad on October 27, 2006, 12:13:06 am
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Hi all:) I recently purchased an Akula ready to sink or swim from an Ebayer model maker.
No matter what I try the servos, motors simply do not stop the servos go one way then the other quckly.
I am desperate to get her on and under the water, been wanting one for years to get one.
Any help would be greatly appreciated please.
I have the following, a 6 channel sanwa reciever at 40mhz, a sanwa vg600 tx 40mhz.
Batteries are fully charged on both.
I have tried adjusting the transmitter in all ways but to no avail.
Tried adding the servos to the 6 channel reciever one at a time they still keep moving no matter what channel i connect to.
Just wondering if perhaps the reciever is kaput? I purchased it all as new.
Many thanks.
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the speed controller could be causing the problems, ??? is all of the wiring correct?its easy to overlook something when you are trying to rush and get it in the water :(
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Hi Dazz,
Thanks for that, appreciated.
The wiring is all pretty good, I had it all out on the bench(kitchen worktop:) and gave it a good look over.
So I think maybe your right, I bought it completed and supposed ready to go, apart from a few minor problems easily fixed this one just got me.
I will look into that, many thanks for your time and trouble:)
Nomad
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Also check the servos in another radio one at a time as 0ne of the servo's could be causing the problem....
Roy
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cbr900, thanks, I will do that, fingers crossed I can get it sorted:)
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This might sound over- simplistic, but have you checked the crystals in your set... are they a matched pair and/or could one of them be duff?
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Man thanks for that too:) I have ordered another set on saturday, should be here monday(fingers crossed) I also hope to join the local RC boat club in Portsmouth.
Many thanks to you all for your help and advice, appreciated.
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I have just fond out some info, perhaps you nice people could verify it for me pls:)
I have a sanwa tx and rc both on the 40MHZ range.
I am not using sanwa crystals in them, I have been advised that they must be sanwa, and thats what is causing my servos and motor to go a bit loopy on my sub.
As I am new to the RC model fraternity, could anyone advise if this is true(pls dont kick me)
many thanks
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Nomad,
Sorry mate could not tell you about 40mhz but I have 29 and 36 mhz and they use whatever crystals I have and no problems.....
Roy
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Nomad,
You must use Sanwa crystals with sanwa radio sets, its just one of them things, its a real pain in the **s. I used to use sanwa gear in radio control cars, and it isn't very compatable with anything else.
I could never get sanwa radio gear to work unless the crystals were sanwa, likewise sanwa crystals would not work in hitech or futaba, don't ask me why but it is common knowledge in the race car fraternity.Then if some one used your frequency in a hitech set it would interfere, crazy!!
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Many thanks to guys you for that info, appreciated very much:)
1400 hrs Just back from Fratton models in Portsmouth with new Futaba crystals :'(
Problem still there, servos, motor still going crazy without reason, wiring is ok, connections ok.
Figure it must be a defective RC or power controller.
Looks like I bought a lemon from Ebay.
Connected servos 1 by 1 etc, all still doing it.
Oh well, back to the drawing board, thanks for your help guys I really appreciate it, many thanks
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Hi there,
I had a similar problem with a submarine I had
what I found was that water had got into the receiver
and the servos and messed up the e;electronics.
Why not see if someone can check out the radio and
receiver or check the servos for you before you start
buying new RC gear
Colin
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Hi Colin, thanks for that, I wish it was something like that:) its all new gear and never been in the water(Wish it had been, just once lol)
I feel an escape hatch attempt coming up, without oxygen:)
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You need that gear checked out! Off the top of my head, it sounds as though your tx isnt radiating. The rx side of things seems as though it may be working because it's responding to a load of static from the electrics in the sub. The effect you've described is similar to switching on your receiver pack with the tx switched off and even though you have turned the tx on, the lack of output means the rx is seeing no incoming signal. Thats the best shot I can give.. hope it helps.
Regards. Chris
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Chris, thanks, sounds to me you have got the problem on the nail methinks.
I am taking my baby to a RC test shop on Friday, they will give me the answer I have been seeking, then I can get my baby on the water:)
Waited for a few years, whats a couple of days:)
Thanks to you all for the help, I really appreciate it:) for a newbie its very welcoming.
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Could also be worth checking to make sure the wire is attached to the aerial in the transmitter, if it has not been connected it will work but not very well...
Roy
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Thanks Roy, I will do that now:) I really appreciate all the help you guys give, Nice forum, nice members:)
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Problem solved, Bought a new Hitec 6 channel TX and RC system, expensive way to solve it:) but it all works, now for the bubbles in the bath bit:)
Many thanks to you all for your advice.
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Hi Nomad, I stopped short of mentioning new gear but as you've done that you should be ok now. One or two tips to avoid disasters at this early stage:
Once you have all the gear installed and run the dive unit up on the bench, make sure the tubes are nicely seated on their rubber seals and don't tighten them up too hard otherwise you may damage the perspex end caps. The white seals when new, are flat but with age and pressure, may have grooves impressed into them. This is ok but if they are deeply grooved, they may not seal as originally intended so keep an eye on this.
Take just the unit and battery, fill the bath up and prior to connecting up the battery, plunge the unit into the bath for a few moments, around ten seconds or so, now take it out and look through the end caps for leaks. If this is ok, hook up the battery and run the unit up whilst holding it underwater. Run a full function test and Keep checking for any obvious signs of leaks and if you have any, establish where they are coming from and rectify as neccessary.
Once you have established the watertight integrity of the unit, you can fit it into the hull and run a full test on the boat.
If the previou owner built and ballasted it correctly, you should have yourself a perfectly good working sub which will go for years with the minimum of attention.
Just one last thing, once you have got used to your sub, its worth fitting a Subtech self leveller. With one of these fitted, you will be able to run this sub full throttle with 'hands off' at periscope depth.
Good luck with it. If you run into problems, give me a call, although I am getting over a recent 'op' I am usually around although not fully back in the workshop yet.
Best regards.....Chris
PS,only use the word 'bubbles' when refering to other makes of sub!!
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Bubbles lol, No probs chris:) I hope there are none, appreciated Sir, thanks to you.
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The Akula is up and running perfectly:) sea trials soon, auto leveler and failsafe next.
The pump it has is a bit weird though, it takes water on, she goes under, but when I switch the pump off, she comes back up.
Right or wrong, dunno, but it works fine.
Thanks to you guys for all your advice:)
Peter
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The reason could be the pump does not have a non return valve fitted and the water when pumped in is under pressure when the pump is switched off the water escapes and you then become buoyant again hence the rise...
Roy
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Hi Nomad, the reason your boat is surfacing of its own accord is due to the ballast water leaking back through the valve block tubing. The cam of the ballast valve servo not applying sufficient pressure on the tubing to shut it off. If you make a new cam wheel and profile it such that it applies just enough pressure upon the tube to close it off, your boat will stay down. It is possible to make the valve leak very sligthly (like a very slow dripping tap) by shaving just a little off the cam so that the boat will eventually surface, even though you have had total power or radio failure. The speed at which it does this is all down to the rate of leak you decide to give the valve and in your case, the previous owner decided to make it a fast one!
Whip the unit out, make a new cam wheel ,re-fit the unit and hey presto.... one working sub!
Best regards and happy sailing..........Chris
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Many thanks Chris, I will do that:)
;D
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Many thanks to you all for your help and advice.
She is running lovely now and been on and under the water for most of the weekend, sheer pleasure.
After some testing I added some more lead and took it down to about 2.5 meters and she responded lovely in a friends pool for ages ;D
Many thanks to all for your help, and I have to say again, great forum.
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Now all you have to do is post some pics so we can see what we have been talking about....
Roy
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Pics on the way, taking her out this weekend, will post some pics:)
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Some pics as promised on this link ;D
Peter
(link deleted) need the webspace :'(
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Hi Peter, good looking sub, excellent pics, looks like a winner to me! One quick question, is it a bit tail heavy? It may just be that the boat was in the process of surfacing in some shots but it seemed a bit 'tail down. This boat is capable of perfect submerged static balance and just in case yours is a little tail heavy, you may have to either move the lead forward a little or perhaps add a little to the nose. The true test is to pump on ballast water so the boat is static just below the surface, whereupon it should sit absolutely level and when fully surfaced, you will find it also sits perfectly level. If you have to move the lead around, always repeat the check with the boat just below the surface until you get it spot on then fix your lead in place. If I have misinterpreted your pics, I apologise in advance. lf this sub is in good order, it should last for years!
Happy sailing and best regards..........Chris
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Excellent pics and a great looking model. You've done a terrific job there sorting out the inevitable sub glitches. Now it should run faultlessly for years. Just wish the weather had allowed me down to the pond with my revised Trafalgar today - but I drew the line when I saw the snow on the hills and the gales started!
Andrew
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Hi Chris, yes it was a bit heavy on 1 end, repositioned the weight, all is level and she goes great now:) lovely and level and just sits where I want it, well worth the long wait in the end, this is what free time is about:)
Hi Andrew, if its any consolation I got totally soaked through:) but it was worth it:)