Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: kiwimodeller on August 05, 2009, 11:24:43 am
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Greetings, a friend is about to start on a 1:24th scale MTB Fairmile D hull he has had for some time. He made a note at the time he got it that he should order the props, shafts and A Frames from an outfit by the name of Raedstock and the fittings from Precision Fittings but after searching both the net and my magazine collection I cannot help him to locate either. Can anybody supply contact details for these companies or suggest other suppliers? Thanks, Ian.
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Hi Ian, the Radstock running gear is now made by GT SITEK and the Precision controlls fittings are available from Westbourne models in Bournemouth UK.
Paul... ok2
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There are some 1/24 fitting/guns in my on-line shop www.johnrhaynes.com , George Sitek will make great props, he makes them for me .
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This could help your friend. http://www.hslmouldings.co.uk/fittings.htm A lot of the fittings cross over to the Dog.
Mark
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Hi Ian,
I am currently building a 1/24 Fairmile D. I ordered everything through Westbourne Models;
- The hull from Kingston Mouldings - great quality but not symmetrical side to side;
- The running gear from Sitek - terrific;
- The fittings from Precision Controls. All I can say here is the the word "Precision" is an absolute misnomer. The brass fittings are great, The white metal fittings are just about passable but the resin components are *&%$*. Westbourne Models actually refunded me some money based on the poor quality delivered. I need to scratch build almost the entire set of resin components. Big waste of money.
Action Electronics for all the electriocs were terrific.
Frank
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Loads of fittings here.
http://www.hslmouldings.co.uk/fittings.htm
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Thanks for all the help. The running gear from G Sitek is due in NZ any day now. He was going to order the fittings kit from Westbourne but has not done so yet, mainly because he was not amused at the changes to prices quoted for both the parts and the postage. Not sure what he is going to do next but I will see him again on Wed. Cheers, Ian.
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After the earlier post we checked the hull very carefully and as far as we can see it is perfectly symetrical and very well made. The running gear has arrived and is very good quality and the disrepancies over the pricing and postage for the fittings has been sorted by Barry at Westbourne after Robin from Kingston Mouldings had a word with them so they are on the way too. Will comment on those when they arrive. Now Richard just has to sort motors and possibly some sort of gearbox to drive the four shafts off two motors. All suggestions welcome.
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Four motors ?
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.... one just for show? (Fiddler on the roof.) %)
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Hi Ian,
I used 4 Graupner Speed 600-Eco motors. I also installed Action Electronics components as per the attached diagram. I run 2 * 8.4V NiMH packs in parallel and it ran really well in early trials before I started building the deck and everything else. Could be some months befre it gets its bottom wet again.
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is there any pictures of the hull and fittings???
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Hi Ian,
I used 4 Graupner Speed 600-Eco motors. I also installed Action Electronics components as per the attached diagram. I run 2 * 8.4V NiMH packs in parallel and it ran really well in early trials before I started building the deck and everything else. Could be some months befre it gets its bottom wet again.
Good god that must have cost as much as the 1:1 boat. :o :o
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Gingyer - no pics as yet - maybe someday.
DickyD - as the old saying goes, "Quality is cheap"
I have a set up that is reliable and performs very well from extremely slow speed with just two props turning over slowly to where the boat is planing. As for cost, well it had to have 4 motors and the Graupners are reasonably priced, the relay and circuit breakers are cheap, I make up the cell packs myself from a cheap source and I really don't think the componets from Action Electronics (Aka FLJ) are overpriced.
Apart from the batteries, motors and speaker, I actually have all this mounted on a sheet of 6mm perspex that is held in by a single screw and two peices of velcro tape. I simply unplug the batteries, speaker and the 8 way connector block to the motors and it all lifts out through the hatch - tight but manageable.
Frank
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Now that is what I call doing it properly Frank. I told my mate he would end up spending as much as I spend on one of my steam powered boats and he looked at me sideways. Once I print off your diagram and drop it in to him he might just change his mind however he is not scared to spend once he is convinced that he is going to get good gear. Thanks for all the help. Ian.
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Hi Ian and thanks for your nice comment.
Apart from what I have already done, there are further options not fully explored at this point in time. My intention is to utilise more components from FLJ (Action Electronics) to enable separate switching of the sound on/off and to power the gun turrents. You and your mate should really have a look at what is available from FLJ - check his website http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/
Just as bait, here is the 'slightly' upgraded wiring diagram that show the switching of the sound module but with spare capability. FLJ may want to improve on this................................
Frank