Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: Dreadstar on September 07, 2009, 12:02:57 am
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Took some pictures of her today at Elder Park,but I've not quite got this move and shoot down yet,so a couple of the pics are a bit fuzzy.
I've still got quite a bit of work to do on her,but it's getting there,at least I've managed to sort out a decent motor/prop combi for her.
Unlike other RTTL's that I've seen on the forums,my one only has the one prop,but as you can see,this plywood beast still hits the plane. :-))
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1159.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1160.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1161.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1162.jpg)
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Nice one Dreadstar! :-))
Very purposeful looking. How big is she?
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She's 36" long,with a beam of 10" and a height of 8" to the top of the main cabin. She's powered by a direct drive linked MFA RE550 motor with heatsink and propelled with a 2-bladed JP Accessories 35mm nylon prop. The photos were taken with the boat powered by a 7.2V-3700MAh stickpack,which gives you around 12 mins runtime. She has the twin rudder set-up,as per the original,(2.5"in height x 2.125" long),which gives her quite a tight turning circle. I'll try and get some internal pics posted up later.If I use a 6V-4A lead-acid battery,she doesn't plane quite as high,nor run quite as fast,but that's only to be expected,due to the increased weight that the battery provides. I'm really glad that I don't have the prop vibration that I was experiencing with the 3-bladed brass props now.
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Motor/stickpack battery access:-
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1169.jpg)
Coupling/receiver/6V battery access:-
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1170.jpg)
Steering servo access:-
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1171.jpg)
Rudder access:-
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1172.jpg)
Rudders and prop:-
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1173.jpg)
Does anyone have any photo's of the cockpit interior for this boat?
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1174.jpg)
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Not sure if this is any help...
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is this the boat with the vibration, ? it is prob due to the amount of unsupported shaft before the coupling
Proteus
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Excellent photo Jab,that's exactly the type of photo I was after.
Yes Proteus,this is the very same boat,but I've not had vibration trouble since I lengthened the skeg to nearer the prop. :-))
Please excuse my little bit of artistic licence,but I've used a perspex windshield instead of the metal one in front of the cockpit. I've still to remove the front guard rail,that the builder fitted,but I wonder if I really need to do that,though I'd need to if I want this boat to be anywhere near accurate,just like I'd need to do with the windshield too.
What do you lads think?
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A bit of a set-back today,whilst giving her a little run around the pond today,I hit the pond edge,and sheared off the port rudder. <:( I'll need to wait until tomorrow before I can salvage the rudder from the pond,as I couldn't reach it today. I've made up a temporary one from an old tin can in the meantime. Having only the one rudder on board,meant that my steering was very poor in reverse,but fine when going forward,if a little wider in radius. Timed the 3700 MAh packs today,and I get a good 20 mins out of them,even if using a lot of high speed runs. I wonder what sort of runtime I'll get by using a set of 4300MAh racing packs? It'll mean changing my ESC from the current one, to my race ESC(no-limit/ reverse) from my RC10B4,which has corally tubes fitted to the powerleads,plus a large in-line capacitor. :-))
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No need to change your ESC if the voltage is the same, more Mah just means longer run time. :-))
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Make up an adaptor if necessary.
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It's quite easy to just add the B4's esc into the boat,as there's plenty of room,that'll allow me to run any of my battery types then,from the 6V gell cell to race matched stickpacks.All I need to do is change the connections between the 2 esc's,a 2 minute job. :-)
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I'm going to try and take some video of her today,as well as some better photo's of her underway. I'm not all that good at photography, and I've only got a little Nikon coolpix 7.1 meg camera to work with. The good thing is,that the sun's out today,can't remember too clearly the last time we saw it up here. :-))
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As promised,a couple of vids and stills from today.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1176.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1177.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1178.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1179.jpg)
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1175.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1175.flv)
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1180.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1180.flv)
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Good to see Vics design chasing about Dreadstar, but how close to the plans is the bow area?? Is the bow block scooped out enough?? The bow wave looks to be mushy and holding it down. On the BPB Seaplane tender (OK, a different design) there is a chine rail fitted which deflects the spray down and away from the hull sides, but I would have thought that a Vosper design, although not fitted with this would have been such to overcome this problem.
Bought the "Lawrence Manufacturing" fibre glass hull for this design in 1959 and was told that someone had fitted a "Gannet" 15cc petrol engine (Yes PETROL) in it, but had to fit "Spray chines" to make it run properly. Mine was to have a "Racer" as powerplant with "Aeromuddler" transistorised Receiver and a 120Volt HT. 3D6 powered transmitter.
Regards Ian
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How big would the chines have to be,in order to be effective Ian? I've seen these chines fitted to many of this class,including the one at RAF Hendon. I wondered why they were there,now I know,thanks. :-))
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The Model Slipway one has chines
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Vosper%20RTTL/DSCF0031.jpg)
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A bit of a set-back today,whilst giving her a little run around the pond today,I hit the pond edge,and sheared off the port rudder. <:( I'll need to wait until tomorrow before I can salvage the rudder from the pond,as I couldn't reach it today. I've made up a temporary one from an old tin can in the meantime. Having only the one rudder on board,meant that my steering was very poor in reverse,but fine when going forward,if a little wider in radius. Timed the 3700 MAh packs today,and I get a good 20 mins out of them,even if using a lot of high speed runs. I wonder what sort of runtime I'll get by using a set of 4300MAh racing packs? It'll mean changing my ESC from the current one, to my race ESC(no-limit/ reverse) from my RC10B4,which has corally tubes fitted to the powerleads,plus a large in-line capacitor. :-))
Hi
your average current draw is about 22.2A, 4300mah batteries will give you around 3 mins 12 seconds extra runtime over the 3700's.
It looks smashing on the water, I bet you are really pleased with it, Circlip refered to Vic, is it a Vic Smeed Design?
Neil
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Here's the Hendon RTTL. :-)
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Try again <:(
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I've just checked Vic Smeeds Drawings and they show the chine line.
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Personally I'm not sure if that's the designer,but it seems to have been based on the Model Maker plans,with a few artistic licence modifications.
Forgive me,but I'm very new to this game,coming from 1/8th off-road racing,I saw this boat for sale from a member of Elder Park boating club,and thought,I've got to have that.I bought her for 80.00,she'd been lying in the clubhouse for over 2 years,and had never been sailed, due to the fact that the previous owner had passed away,before he'd had the chance to sail her.
Having looked at the various photographs of the real thing,I've spotted quite a few differences,the most noticable being the handrails at the bow,and the oddly shaped rudders,plus the fact that there was no cockpit.
I'm trying my best to get this boat into something that looks a bit closer to the real thing,but I think that I'll leave the bow rails on her,as I quite like the lines that it gives her. ok2
How she originally looked.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1148.jpg)
How she's looking now
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/VSCN1182.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1183.jpg)
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Yep, sorry Dread, just picked this back up. The RTTL was a freebie giveaway plan in the 1958 Christmas edition Of Muddle Boots, drawn up by the wizard of all floating and flying things Vic Smeed. Boy, did THAT guy know his onions, his designs were so damned predictable, they ALWAYS worked, even when built by hamfisted twonks. I think the following year he did the E-Boat.
First impressions on it sailing Dread was that the ballance may need re-ing, but the bow wave looks as though it can't clear the hull sides. When you turn the wick up, I would have expected it to lift its skirts and be sat with the spray at about 1/3rd to 1/2 back being chucked well clear from the BOTTOM skins.
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You've done a grand job. At the end of the day she is your boat now and what you want on her is yours and only your decision. I would still think of putting the chine rail on as this will only add to the handling and over all look of the boat on the water. You may find in tight turns at full speed your taking water on . The chine rail will resolve this for you by kicking the water away from the boat.
As I said it's your choice what you want in/on your boat.
Mark
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As you can see,I've attempted to fit a set of chines to her sides,maybe not too accurately,but hopefully it'll make a difference. I'll let you know if they've made any difference after I've tried her out tomorrow.I just hope that I've not put them on at too steep an angle,I was trying to follow the natural curve up from the step of the lower hull. :embarrassed:
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As you can see,I've attempted to fit a set of chines to her sides,maybe not too accurately,but hopefully it'll make a difference. I'll let you know if they've made any difference after I've tried her out tomorrow.
The chines run the full lenght of the hull connecting to the bottom of the transome, this will stop any intake in the tight turns.
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As Mark says, it looks good, and it is YOUR choice, wasn't trying to down you in any way, just a bit worried that in tight turns, you may get self flooding.
Can't see the piccy too well but the rails should go from either side of the bow nose, full length to the back (Transom) on the bottom edge of the vertical skin. It sticks out a bit like the threshhold rail (Driprail) on a door and stops the water from sticking to the base and up the sides.
Regards Ian
Can we co-ordinate Mark :D
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Hi Dread the twin rudders on your model are correctly shaped and very similar to those fitted on the original. How long is your model?. Please note that the hand rails fitted around the deck of the Hendon boat were H & S additions after she arrived at the museum, to enable staff to have safe access. My photo was taken in March during my visit to Hendon. Have a look on the 'Deans Marine' site at their RTR model for comparison. :-)
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Ok,chines fitted as per description,I'll take some more video today,and i'll compare the two,just to see the difference they make.
O/A length: 34.5"( measured properly this time) Beam: 9 7/8" Perkasaman. I realised that the handrails on the Hendon boat were just as a safety measure,and not fitted for duty. I don't have any inkling as to who originally built this boat or when,but the original speed control was of the wiper type.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1184.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1185.jpg)
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I'm having trouble trying to upload any video's just now,every time I try,Firefox crashes out. >>:-(
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Ok,here's a couple of vids to start with,until I can get the rest uploaded. There is a marked improvement with the chines fitted,although,I need to reposition the bow ends of the chines.
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1186.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1186.flv)
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1187.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1187.flv)
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Looking good. You will find your turning circle is a lot smaller as the boat pivots on the chine and your speed will have increased ever so slightly.
Mark
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Ya got a knee male Dread.
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Here are some more pics and vids from Elder Park yesterday.
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1188.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1188.flv)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1191.jpg)
My son was taking more video's than I'd realised.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1192.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1193.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1194.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1195.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1196.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1197.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1198.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1199.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1201.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1202.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1203.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1204.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1206.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1207.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1208.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1209.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1210.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1213.jpg)
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1189.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1189.flv)
The vosper had snagged on a submerged poly-bag,that had wrapped itself around my prop.
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1190.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1190.flv)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1215.jpg)
Emergency airlift to the Southern General......hope they were ok.
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Can anyone tell me what colour the 'mushroom top' air vents are supposed to be? :-)
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Can anyone tell me what colour the 'mushroom top' air vents are supposed to be? :-)
I presume your talking of the Cowl vents on rear structure and at the side of structure?
If so the only information I have found to date is they are the same grey as wheel house. If you are talking about the vents placed around the deck they are light grey (probably the same colour as the wheel house).
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Thanks for that Mark.
I re-set the chines at the bow,and added a piece of right angled brass on the leading edge of the bow,to help cut her way through the water at low speeds. I'm just back from the park,(but I forgot to take my camera with me),after testing out the mods. What a difference it's made,getting the chines angled properly,they really do throw the water well clear of the hull. The brass strip has made a difference too, allowing the boat to carve through the water,rather that building up a large bow wave. I had to change my steering servo though,as my Kyosho KT-14 transmitter wouldn't control the existing steering servo. I've now got an ACE 1015 servo on steering duty,(far more torque than is needed),but I need to be careful not to turn too tightly with it,because it has a very fast transit time. I've changed the prop to a 40mm 2-blade one,and with the GP 4300MAh packs,I'm getting almost 45 minutes run time from the one pack. Not much in the way of deck furniture to add now,just the large airvents and a dinghy now,and the cockpit to finish off. Some pics.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1216.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1217.jpg)
Please excuse the Araldite everywhere,but once the hull's been repainted,it won't be so obvious.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1218.jpg)
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I knew that this boat had been around for a while,but I was quite surprised when one of the other club members told me that he had a photo of her in action in East Kilbride,back in 1976. That makes this boat at least 33 years old,if not more,depending on how close to the publication of the plans,that she was built. :embarrassed:
I've asked him to bring the photo along on Sunday,so that I can see her.I'll try and take a photo of how she looked back then.
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Just ordered up a set of painted MTB figures along with a dinghy from George Turner,and ordered the engineroom vent cowls & davits from macsmouldings.This may be an old boat,but it's my first real scale one,and I want to get her finished off as near as possible to the real thing,( with the exception of the bow rails,which I'm keeping). The only thing that I'm having real problems with finding,are detail photo's of the cockpit interior. Jeb's pic helped a bit,but I'm trying to find details of the forward face of the cockpit. Can anyone help me out?
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Dont know if this site might help you.
http://www.asrmcs-club.com/BoatsWebsite/galleries.html
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Thanks DickyD,but unfortunately no interior shots. I'd found that site already,it's not easy to find photo's of that area of the boat. :((
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Have you tried a PM to cdsc123, he's our resident expert on Vosper launches and he's in touch with a lot of people doing restoration work etc.
Christian also has a web site http://community.webshots.com/user/cdsc123
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Glad a bit of history has enabled you to see a difference Dread :-))
Regards Ian.
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Latest trial run,though as you can see,my ACE servo was twitching quite badly,(later packed up),and I'm still having trouble sailing and filming at the same time. I'm getting water seepage through both my rudder and propshafts,both have been heavily greased,and the rudders even have an 'O'-ring fitted at the top of the shafts. Any advice?
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1219.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1219.flv)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1223.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1221.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1220.jpg)
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Got my Macsmodels castings through today,and all I can say,is that they're superb.I'm going to have to reinforce the boat davits though,as I think that they could easily snap during transportation.I think that i may need to sandwich the core between two plates of brass,as their position on the hull is very exposed.,and I don't want them damaged.
Some pics of the new parts in position,(only temporary,as I still have to paint them).
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1228.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1229.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1230.jpg)
Sorry for the shaky hands syndrome there.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1231.jpg)
I'm just waiting for the parts from G.Turner now,and she's more or less complete.I've still to build the companionway hatch though, before anyone says anything.
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How it's looking now.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1232.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1233.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1234.jpg)
Still to fill and smooth off the engineroom front face,but I've run out of filler.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1235.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1236.jpg)
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Better view.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1237.jpg)
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Some more pics from today.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1238.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1239.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1242.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1241.jpg)
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1240.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1240.flv)
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That chine rail makes a huge difference. O0
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Don't wanna say "We told you so" BUT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - WE DID :-))
Looks much more at home Dread.
Regards Ian
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Well,if you hadn't told me about them,I'd have been none the wiser,so thanks lads. I've also changed my prop from a 40mm 2-blade to a 45mm 2-blade,and it's really quietened down the boat,the only thing is that she now cavitates like stink,and is hyper-sensitive to throttle input. :-))
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Hi Dread, its been an interesting thread, keep the info coming :-))
Its a similar hull to my Aerokits Firetender. I have found that at faster speed, the batteries position are quite critical to the planing effect.(you can see wher the chines are breaking the water on the photo) Looking at your photos, can you move the battery pack to where the rx is, just before the shaft enters the hull? I could be wrong, but the pack seems to be in the first third of the hull which could be preventing the boat getting on the plane at slower speeds. It might be worth giving it a go, if no good then just move the pack back. I have googled the spec of the motor, you are under the nominal voltage, so if you want a bit more speed, see if anyone at your club can give you a go of a 9.6v pack.
Personally, I would go to 12v, and if buying new batteries 2 x 6v packs, wired to give 12v might give you more options with battery positions.
As for the prop, I ended up with a 4 blade cleaver prop! It was suprisingly must better, and less amp draw, than the 2 bladers, which was quite suprising. I stand to be corrected, but I dont think going to a bigger prop causes cavitation, a smaller prop is spinning faster and going nowhere, and I think thats cavitation, not what you are getting. Try bigger, but keep your eye on motor, esc and battery temp, I cant see any water cooling on your videos and a bigger prop may cause more amp draw, resulting in more (excessive) heat
Keep up the good work and keep the info coming :-))
(http://)
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Thanks for that devlin,but a 45mm prop is the maximum size that I can fit on her,any bigger,and I'll be gouging lumps out of the hull.
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Changed the battery position in the boat as you suggested,and went down to the park to test her.What a difference,and she planed nicely too. Then disaster struck,she started to lose power,so I brought her in,and I could see smoke coming from inside the boat. Opened up the decking and turned off the power and unplugged the pack. The ESC was barely warm,but there was still smoke coming from the motor compartment.I took the cabin section off,and waited 'til the smoke cleared,that was when I saw the damage.The motor wires had melted and fused together????? Odd that,when the rest of the wiring was still cool to the touch.Needless to say,the motor is nothing but scrap,even removing it from the boat and trying to turn it over it's apparent that ,it has seized solid. <:(
Oh well,time to get a new motor,and this time,I'm removing the wiring and replacing it with something a little more durable. :-))
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The motor that I had in her pmdevlin was only rated as 3-9V,and I was only running at 7.2V. I've put in an RE 540-1 rated at 4.5-15V in the meantime.I know that it's a slower running motor rev wise,but it should be able to take the load better.It should give me around 9000rpm at 7.2V,with a current draw of about 2.3A.I don't know if she'll plane as well as the 550,but at least she'll be running again. {:-{
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I ended up changing the motor for a 540 fan cooled one out of one of my cars,just a silver can one. I wasn't too sure if it would have enough guts to move this beast with a 40mm 2-blade prop,but surprise surprise,she lifted right up onto the plane,just like she did with the 550.I ran 3 packs through her consecutively,brought her in and checked the motor,ok it was warm,but you could actually hold the heatsink without burning your fingers,and the motor shell itself wasn't really any warmer either.I've got some pics of her today,but none whilst on the plane unfortunately,and she turns nicely on the chines too.
Thank you all for your input on my boat,it's very much appreciated.I'll try to get some video of her later.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1245.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1244.jpg)
Big Wullie's Scharnhorst
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1256.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1257.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1260.jpg)
I'll post more pics later.
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Hi Dread
nice to see the progress you have made and to see the pictures of the vosper rttl performing.
I have been away for a few weeks so no progress on my attempt during that time. Hope to make some ahead now I am back but still some way to go before launch!
Howyson
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Some more pics from Sunday.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1263.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1265.jpg)
Wee Wullie and his Flower class corvette
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1258.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1259.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1262.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1253.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1251.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1252.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1243.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1247.jpg)
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With the weight shift, even when it's only "chugging" the wave flow looks better Dread, 11/10 for Percy Vearence. Bit different to the sloppy runner in post 1.???
Regards Ian.
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How she ran earlier today. It's only thanks to you lads on this forum,that's she's running so well now.
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1267.flv (http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/?action=view¤t=DSCN1267.flv)
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Sorry Dread, after seeing that one, it looks like you've lost its ability to wash clean its own sides from the original fast runs :D HEY HO, some yer loose O0
Regards Ian.
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It's a 540 motor that's in it just now,and not a 550,hence the slightly slower speed.
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hi Dread. it looks nice on the water, but I think the motor sounds like its all revs, I know you have changed it, if you are happy, then great, but I doubt its going to be any faster. If you want faster, I think you will need to beef up the motor, I strongly recommend something like a graupner 700bb turbo,()usually some appear on fleaby for under £20) Xmas is coming! but you will almost certanly have to water cool, maybe change the esc, and add some volts, pity about the other motor melting, I think you had cracked it! :-))
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Alright Dread,
The RTTL is looking good, unfortunately you have to draw a line sometimes. Do you want perfect scale speed or durability? This is the question only you can answer. O0
To be honest the only way I think you would get both is to have a 49inch (1:12) model or to go to brushless and lipo batteries.
As a first boat you have discovered the learning curve is not always straight forward.
Most importantly the boat is yours and do what you like.
All the best
Mark
Maybe if I get a chance I'll see her run in person if I'm up that way. :-))
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Hi Red,when the 550 blew,it seriously damaged my no-limit ESC(handled down to a 5T motor),so I've just got a 15T limit esc in just now. Granted,they aren't marine esc's,but it's all that I have,about 20 car esc's all told. I might try puting the 45mm 2-blade prop on it and try it out,but I don't want to overtax the motor too much,it runs quite cool as it is. The motor is only a standard silver can motor with built in fan,around 32Turns,so I don't expect great things from it. I might try her with either a 21T or a 19T motor and see if they'll cope,though car motor's probably aren't the best ones to use. {:-{
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Alright Dread,
The RTTL is looking good, unfortunately you have to draw a line sometimes. Do you want perfect scale speed or durability? This is the question only you can answer. O0
To be honest the only way I think you would get both is to have a 49inch (1:12) model or to go to brushless and lipo batteries.
As a first boat you have discovered the learning curve is not always straight forward.
Most importantly the boat is yours and do what you like.
All the best
Mark
Maybe if I get a chance I'll see her run in person if I'm up that way. :-))
sorry I dont understand why you have to have a 49" boat you can get good speed and run time out of the boat he has.
Peter
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here is the evidence :-))
36" all ply, heavy at almost 6kg, you can see how low it sits in the water compared to other videos of "fast scale" boats that are very light, graupner 700bb turbo 9.6v brushed motor, running on 19.2v 3600 nimh's. Run time then was 20 mins, it now goes faster with a 2:1 gearbox, and lasts approx 30 mins, which is long enough for me at this speed :-))
But....its way over scale speed, and some purists may not like it, I think its great fun :}, but it can be done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gck4N-kixck
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Gordon Bennet Red,that's not a Fireboat,that's a ballistic missile in disguise %% I don't want my launch to go that fast,just over scale speed will do me. :-))
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you dont have to sail it that fast you can just go at the speed you want and prob get 60 min run time at least,
Peter
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What sort of set-up would you recommend Peter? I don't want to go with gel-packs though,as they add too much weight to the boat,which just compounds the problem.
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you dont have to sail it that fast you can just go at the speed you want and prob get 60 min run time at least,
Peter
The reason for my post is I build all my boats to get an hour or more at full speed. This way I can get a good days sailing, and I mean day. 20 minutes running or taking three sets of batteries with me to get an hour is just not my idea of fun (personal opinion). I would rather know my boat was in the water and retaining enough power to run all day, rather than clock watching for battery changes.
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can you tell us what set up you use and what boat so I can get an idea of speed, running Fst all day at speed is normally imposable even with a big boat ...I have a old fire boat that is on twin Pittman motors and D cells that runs all day but I get border after 20 min.
Peter
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can you tell us what set up you use and what boat so I can get an idea of speed, running Fst all day at speed is normally imposable even with a big boat ...I have a old fire boat that is on twin Pittman motors and D cells that runs all day but I get border after 20 min.
Peter
The last one of these I ran was around 20 years ago. The info I can provide will probably never be used in a boat today. I used to run a 49" with two cortina window wiper motors on a motor bike battery (they things never ran out of juice). The reason for this set up is I had a friend at the time who owned a car accessories shop and I got everything at cost or less. Never once had a problem with battery leakedge. The reason I want power all day is because I don't sail in a pond, where if the batteries die you wait until the wind blows the boat to the side and you can retrieve it. We used to sail in Loch Lomand together so going to the other bank was never an option.
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I think we both have a very different idea of speed. because 20 years ago motorcycle batteries where not that good and smiths motors are not that revey and can be greedy if you try to get speed out of them.
Peter
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I think we both have a very different idea of speed. because 20 years ago motorcycle batteries where not that good and smiths motors are not that revey and can be greedy if you try to get speed out of them.
Peter
May be, but the other options were Decoperms (to bl**dy costly) and a multitude of SLA batteries that wouldn't allow the boat to plane because of weight.
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here is the evidence :-))
36" all ply, heavy at almost 6kg, you can see how low it sits in the water compared to other videos of "fast scale" boats that are very light, graupner 700bb turbo 9.6v brushed motor, running on 19.2v 3600 nimh's. Run time then was 20 mins, it now goes faster with a 2:1 gearbox, and lasts approx 30 mins, which is long enough for me at this speed :-))
But....its way over scale speed, and some purists may not like it, I think its great fun :}, but it can be done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gck4N-kixck
Man! :o
That thing shifts! :-)) {-)
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What sort of set-up would you recommend Peter? I don't want to go with gel-packs though,as they add too much weight to the boat,which just compounds the problem.
I would go with a 700bb 9.6v and run it on 14v two 7.2v packs try the 4.6ah if you can I would also think of a gear box for it one of the MFA ones we found that it stopped the motor over heating and we got a lot longer run time also something like a 30 amp electrononise speed controller we have been playing props and fortunately have a selection to try but always go smaller first and build up a small jump in size can pull a lot of amps so be aware we only ever do a small lap when testing yes its boring but bring it in and test temperature to make shore nothing is overheating, you will see cooling coils on the motors but they are not needed with the set up we are using so we should get a good life out of the motor plus they are about £21 now and cheaper if you look around. oh and we only use oil in the prop shaft after we saw the difference it maid plus the set does not req anything when sailing just for bench running..the gearbox is the way to go.. also as i said you can run at whatever speed you want nice and scale like and the odd blast to wake up the senses..
peter
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I've been thinking of going the gearbox route,but is there anywhere that you can just buy the boxes themselves,or do you need to buy a complete package?
David.
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you can buy just the box these are the same gears as we use but we make up the other bits
http://www.mfacomodrills.com/gearboxes/960d_series.html
peter
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What gearbox ratio would you suggest Peter,to go with a 540 size motor?
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the gear box I Posted a link to is for 700 motors which are about £20 ish pounds for a good 9.6v 700bb and you would run that on 2 to 1 with a 540 you would use a smaller gear box and it all depend on the motor as they are all different 540 its like saying medium sized car they are all different some fast some are skodas so I cannot help and you would get a lot less advantage going that size anyway. that is why sometimes going for something like a speed 600 of speed 500 from graupner you can look up the speck and if you melt it due to weed or over proping it you can get one the same revs and amps to replace it as opposed to some of the no name ones.
Peter
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Thanks Peter,I'm glad that there are so many knowlegable people on here.Food for thought,I'll look over the options carefully and see.
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thanks greggy :-)) its better now, different prop
Dread, my gearbox ratio is 2:1, mfa gears as HS93 has stated. Its not much quicker than direct drive, but way more efficient. With direct drive, it needed water cooling, with the gearbox fitted, motor etc is stone cold, does not need water cooling anymore, run time is better.
Graupner motors, especially the 700 BB Turbo range are purpose made for rc use, and are pretty much bullet proof, providing you dont abuse them like I do :}
I run 19.2v, volts, for your boat I agree with what HS93 says , you dont want to go as fast as mine, if you have 2 packs and a link cable, then you can use both for fast running, and one at a time for general running, giving you more options :-))
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Finally got my boat crewed,and just need to build a mounting frame for the dinghy now.
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1328.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/xuihpilli/DSCN1329.jpg)