Thats a fine looking job you've done there Ken.
Hope you have your wife down the gym everyday getting ready for when she has to carry it about. ok2
Every little helps as they say.
Just looking at all that planking is bring back my nervous tw, tw, twitch!
Ken says........"The first Blood has been spilt. (see if you can spot it ?!)" ........ {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
only place left is the white cotton towel
When you have decided what size is the correct one then try these people. They should be able to solve the fender problem for you. 8)http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/bbCMSrenderPage.asp (http://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/bbCMS/bbCMSrenderPage.asp)
Good hunting, Mike
Hi Ken
15mm certainly looks right, good luck with your search and I'm sorry I can't help any more.
Brian
awsome build
realy wanted to build the Severn but could never work out the frames
keep up the good work :-))
Mat
H I'm toying with the idea of getting a bandsaw and wondered if the machine is capable of straight cuts on suitable sheet material.
On my current build the City of Sheffield Tyne i had a rubber extrusion made to match the right profile for the fendering.
Russ
What are those confounded BLUE symbols on the second class ply Ken?
Tut Tut Martin from down below down under %), it was Chinese New Year here in the old country yesterday and it's obvious our Kenny was realigning the FENG SHUI of his boatyard. :}Why are you having a go at Martin doon under, he hasn't been on here ? {:-{
That looks good Ken, not fed up yet. :-))
Whats that bloke on the bridge praying for ? {:-{
Hi Dan
Yes it is possible. My first reaction was "What are you soldering it too?" and and my second reaction was, if you hold the blow torch on the wire for too long, then it will disintegrate. The secret is to heat the copper, then remove the torch, then apply the solder and watch it 'Flow' around the joint.
If you'd like to pop around then I can give you a few tips on how not to burn your finger.
(been there, done that) ;)
Ken
Looks :-))
Blood adds to the model makes it feel like you have put more into it :}
Hi Ken
Sorry to butt in but the rails on the Severn are fixed to a T section kick board, not directly into the deck. Pity to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar...................and all that!
Regards
Brian
Thank you for all your thoughts. It is only the pulpit I was referring to as well as the ones on the flying bridge. Going to have a go on these today.
Can I ask some question please. Are the side deck rail tops made of flexible wire ?
How are the kick boards attached to the deck, as the leverage of the attached stanchions will be excessive ?
Ken
I normally build on a template of ply but the deck is ok set the hight use a bit of bakers fluid and a very small torch as, you have to be careful if you use an iron as they tend to move, I have found a small fine flame works great don't forget to put a few metal bulldog clips on the solder joint at the top to stop them getting soft if you overdo it a bit with the heat.
Peter
Kenny it's sad when the paint goes on the brass work, all the work seems to disappear I have been painting some of the fireboat bits I did and a week of work could have been a white metal part just glued together.
but it is nice working in brass, so its a Lath next then Kenny?.
Peter
Oh dear ....Ken says "Nice quiet day visiting relatives" .... do you mean a visit by the the Easter Bunny this weekend Ken???????.... :embarrassed: ;D O0
Oh BTW I like the constant radius with the tube work as achieved with your home made tube bender ....the result is :-)) Derek
Hi,
Been following the build with great interest and have to say its looking brilliant. Better than i thought it would be using the materials provided.
Dan
The Sun has come out and today is "Orange day". Yippee!!! out with spray paint. %)
Can I add this new stuff to the existing coats I have on at the moment. pretty please. (what a problem I've created for myself !!)
ken
I've just weighed her on the bathroom scales. 34 pounds with the flowcoat on.
Unfortunately I was advised to add a thickener and I made it too thick. Now it has dried it's reminiscent of the tide coming in, frozen in time !!! I shall be sanding for days to correct this, so no pictures for a while. :((
ken
Hi Ken
As I'm sure you're aware the deck has a non slip coating applied, and on mine I mixed some very fine sand (courtesy of my friend Phil Locke) with a suitable matt grey paint and it made a very realistic job. If it's not too late, and you'd like some please let me know and I'll post a bit to you.
Brian
Totally agree Ken very outstanding workmanship bring her up to Bryn Bach Park on our open day 11th September finished or not.
Jenno.
Looking good Ken. :-))
I thought it was blue on the bottom and red up top?! %)
Hi. Just been bringing myself up to date with your Severn build. Looks super.
I had some 1/12th scale section fendering made for the Tamar kit which is perfect for the Severn of course (if you haven't already sorted it). It's just £6 per metre. I still have some D section I used on the Severn kit originally (which was the £40 item) but since it's the 'end of the roll so to speak, £20 to you sir!
Adrian (Speedline models).
{-) Tug---Kenny says ....... "Day off tomorrow while I see the Bank manager for arrangements to get the electronics for her" .... {-) %% {-) sorry Ken.....but I am a bit lost with the translation heeeeeeere :D
The first one shows the scale of this beast when placed against the good ship Imara before she went to her new home.Hello Ken
Have you thought/have a service name for the kenny7?
Ken
HOLD THE FRONT PAGE!!! You should be using Mode 4 50% mix with that big beast, not Mode 3 - or it will turn itself inside out if you turn at full speed. Switch 1 OFF; Switch 2 ON; Pot R1 all the way anticlockwise.
FLJ
Hi Perkasaman.
It has crossed my mind and I decided not to name her after an existing boat for fear of 'Rivet counters". I shall number her 17-02 as per the drawings and maybe call her 'Prototype'.
I'm going to fit wheels to the support frame so that I can 'run' her down the slope at Wicksteed. Mind you, I shall have Dan with me to drive home should my Back give in. %)
Thanks for the compliments.
Ken
What are you going to build next Ken [if you're allowed] ? ok2
Hi Richard,Scratch built I assume Ken.
A coal house first. She placed her order early. Then I don't really know what to go for. ;)
Ken
She now weighs 61 pounds fully loaded ( 30 killos?) O0 :o %)
Ken
Solder some leads to the speaker terminals and make sure you have a 12 volt battery with 3A connecting leads somewhere in there.
"You shall have noises, Cinders......................."
FLJ
I hope you've been going to the gymnasium {-)
Peter.
I've got an even better plan.
I'm bringing a "Young Man" by the name of Dan. :D
ken
Dont forget Ken, photos of the maidensinkingvoyage will be required, video would be even better. :-))
I've spotted tonight's deliberate mistake, port should be red and starboard green..............!
Brian
That is nice, Dicky. They look the bee's knee's. I'm hopeless with a brush, as you can see.Perhaps you should do larger scale kits Ken {-)
Ken
Hi Ken
But beware of your choice of adhesive! You'll need one that bonds plastic to plastic and you'll find that these types of adhesive are not compatible with Humbrol paints.........the dreaded orange peel effect!
Regards
Brian
I'd say use superglue but it mists as you well know. For modelling, i always use loctite ultra gel, sets really quick, doesn't run and is generally pretty tough.
Dan
ps --- Peter, I like your new picture. very sheikh. Now get your scruffy's on and start on that next boat.
Peter's photo now fixed! Thumbs up
If that is fixed, how bad was it before ?
Last time I saw somebody dressed like that they were called 'the accused' {-) {-)
Jimmy
Hi Perkasaman
Yes indeed it's a great machine. Ensure you get the widest blade you can afford to prevent 'flexing'.
I have managed to cut 6 foot length of 6" by 1" timber to a width of 1mm planks, which proved to be too thin anyway. I settled on 2 to 3 mm in the end. I have two blades of different teeth per inch and found the 10 tooth one best for accurate work. I use the 6 tooth per inch for ripping larger wood, and so far have managed to slice a piece of 3X3 inch carefully to a width of 2mm. (just experimenting)
It does need special guides clamped in place as long material like this will 'wander' if you sneeze. :D I had rests fixed each side of the blade to support the wood and keep it true.
One thing to note is keep away from Knots in the wood. Planks cut from these tend to snap when handled afterwards. :embarrassed:
As to plywood, it's like cutting cheese. You can actually cut a 2 inch circle, it's so sharp and dusty, so goggles are a must.
Ken