Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Engineering Techniques and Materials. => Topic started by: dazzle on December 28, 2006, 11:26:54 pm
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Have seen a few posts on this topic, The method I use on fibreglass & wood, is to heat both ends of tube with a
25 watt soldering iron 1 to 2 minutes grip tube with pliers or gas grips Gently twist (rotate) tube and pull out,
if tube does not moved first time just repeat heat with iron.
I had to remove the old proptube, rudder tube, water cooling and two exhaust tubes from boat I am rebuilding
see pic, the prop and exhaust tubes were through the hull and a wood bulkhead, glassed in, epoxied and araldited,
tubes were brass aluminium and copper
dazzle (Bob)
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would it not be easier to cut the items off flush then countersink drill the area ans back fill with resin if the areas were not to be used again or am I on the wrong thinking here? ???
A dremmel with a disc cutter can be a valued piece of equipment, when wearing the correct safety 'stuff'.but what would I know I'm half P###ed as Its New Year's day/morning (and I'm a sad old model er) who's got nowt to do at this time..... ;) ;D
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Hi all, slightly off the thread but several years ago I was repairing a plastic type lawnmower. There were several metal screws which did not respond to turning in either direction. I applied a (heated) 100 watt soldering iron to the screw head for a short time and the screw came out very easily.
regards Roy
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Hi all, catengineman the exhaust tubes were 13" long and totaly enclosed, so no chance with a small disk cutter, also I needed to remove these completely. You cannot always get easy access with a dremel etc, And one slip you will do more damage.
No need to do things twice, cut then countersink, also new proptube fits so snug theres hardly any need for filler.
I have use this method on lots of different boats, Simple and Easy.
Happy New Year to All
dazzle (Bob)