Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Radio Equipment => Topic started by: Netleyned on April 08, 2010, 09:42:35 am
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Can anyone please point me in the direction of a post on the forum
(or elsewhere ) withe details of removing the LH stick ratchet,any
parts needed etc.
The stick operating mod is on GC's website I believe, and I would
like to gather all the required components before 'opening the box'
Yours Aye
Ned
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Hi Netleyned
Why ? just order the mode to suit EG. Mode 1 Right throttlel or Mode 2 Left throttle
Timo2
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The throttle stick has a ratchet to hold the stick where it is
for flight use.
For boat use I would like the stick to be self centering as a 'failsafe'
It is easier to ask on here than to try phoning GC
Every time I try he is in China buying more goodies!
Yours Aye
Ned
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I have a couple of the GC 2.4Ghz 4 channel sets.
As far as I recall, the ratchet is a simple metal strip held onto the back of the stick unit with one screw. You just remove it.
I think that the self-centering arms are still attached to the throttle stick unit. This set has a mode1/mode2 switch on the PCB, so to make a mode change you just flick the switch and change the spring from one stick unit to the other. However, if you want to make all the sticks self-centering you will need another spring.....
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Thanks for that DG
It feels to me like is a basic friction device
I have been on GC's forum and found the resistor values
I need
I just wanted everything to hand before going inside
because I know from experience that if something else
is needed then the opened unit lies on the bench for ages
Did anything ever come of the two extra channels?
Yours Aye
Ned
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4 resistors - no problem (though you'll probably have to take the PCB out to get clear soldering access to the stick pots). Works a treat!
If you are looking to add the rate modification as well you will find that the advised Maplin pot is a bit big for the holes under the trim at the top of the RC box, and you will need to do a bit of dremelling....
Nobody with any electronic skill seems that interested in looking at the extra channels, though it seems obvious to me that they must be there. I'm not calling for help on the forum, though, 'cos that will probably just annoy people....
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Here's mine....
If you remove the 'ratchet', it won't be self-centring, you will have to make up an arm (by coping the right hand stick
and adding a spring... you might be able to buy some... somewhere!).
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Nobody with any electronic skill seems that interested in looking at the extra channels, though it seems obvious to me that they must be there. I'm not calling for help on the forum, though, 'cos that will probably just annoy people....
... no, you can call! I'd be interested! :-))
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"...I think that the self-centering arms are still attached to the throttle stick unit. .."
Martin is right - the self-centering arms are not attached to the throttle. So you will need two arms and a spring if you want self-centering sticks on all 4 axes.
Martin - I have tried just shorting one of the spare contact sets on the PCB and that did not affect channels 5 or 6. I suspect that a fixed resistance is needed to be switched in - but that's beyond my capability to figure....
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I have just modded my set and the left stick is now self centering, I removed the ratchet and made my own self centering arm and a spring I found in my spares box and it works perfect.
Mark.
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Could any of you put up a photo of the top side of the circuit board?
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Several photos are up on the Giant Cod forum under this thread: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2858&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
Here is a link to mine: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/forum/download.php?id=2193&mode=view
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... no, you can call! I'd be interested! :-))
Wish ===> Command
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3848&p=13800#p13800
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Interesting stuff, DG - thanks for that.
As to adding the extra (variable pot) channel, I would suggest that you contact someone with an oscilloscope and probe the output of the encoder chip. If the 'scope shows at least seven pulses in the frame you will then know if your particular board is indeed capable of six channels (the first pulse being the 20mS sync/frame pulse). If, on the other hand, the 'scope reveals just six pulses then it obviously means that you have yourself a 5-channel only system.
If that makes sense.
Also, if you intend doing the dual-rates hack, then you might want to experiment with the value of the suggested 1K resistors. Try using, say, 470 ohms and see how you get on.
Incidentally, in those links that you sent, I read that some folk are having problems trying to locate a suitably-sized pot for the dual-rates hack. You could try the 16mm ones from esr.co.uk, or maybe even the 5K ones robbed from defunct servos and transmitter gimbals, etc.
You're welcome to loan/use my 'scope if you fancy the drive to Somerset.
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My scope here is an old Gould OS4020 - but I think I would have quite a difficulty just understanding the waveform.
Mind you, better electrical wizards than I, on the GC board, have said the on-board electronics are 6 channel, so I am happy to take their word. They seem to be making the running and have done all the hard work - I am just pointing Mayhemers at it because Martin seemed interested....
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Point taken.
Although, there seems to be adaquate room in the Tx case, I'd be tempted to strip the existing board and stick an altogether separate encoder in there, say eight or nine channels and make use of all those available pre-cast holes for the switches and pots, blah.