Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: CJ1 on May 02, 2010, 03:17:20 pm
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Well, at last, I've started my Speedline Tamar properly!
As this is my first electric boat, I started by wiring up the electrics out of the boat and test running everything in a wood test rig to get to understand them.
The shafts went in very well with the help of the jigs that Adrian (of Speedline) recommends. I used ply to make the supporting fillets inside and out and epoxied these in place. It was difficult seeing what shape the external supports should be, but on closer inspection of the RNLI drawings (thanks Phil for getting me to buy those) I realised they are shown on one of the sheets.
I've now spent the last couple of days trying to make a plywood mount for the motors to install them in line with the shafts. This is my first time putting electric motors in a boat and aligning two 1lb. motors (Graupner speed 900s) to two prop shafts and to the inside of the hull with it's 3D shape with only two hands and a dozen packing pieces, taxed my little brain somewhat. Nowhere in this forum does it tell you how tricky it is! Is this a conspiracy against new modellers so as not to put them off. All ideas for this and future problems are more than welcome here.
But....how satisfying when it all goes into place. The front support for the bow thruster battery and esc. was much quicker, and the test float in the bath to decide roughly where to place the main 12v batteries comes later this evening!
The window frames are made, the holes marked up in the cabin side, and I have a trip to the Salcombe lifeboat next week to get detail photos for the Y-boat that I am making alongside the real job.
Looking forward to Wickstead to see other peoples ideas now.
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Hello CJ1
Have a look on mobile marine models web site they do a prop shaft/motor alignment jig and will do special sizes if necessary.
Dave
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Dave,
Thanks for that. I talked it through with my mate who has a lathe, and hey presto, 10 minutes later, a brass shaft alligner! Now the universal joints slip onto the motor shafts spot on each time.
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With a lot of help from Roger, here are the first build photos of the Salcombe Tamar. The eagle-eyed amongst you will have spotted part of a recent fun birthday present...an Airfix Severn y-boat. Talk about the sublime to the ridiculous!
(http://s1.postimage.org/pu0U9.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxpu0U9)
(http://s1.postimage.org/pu3oi.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxpu3oi)
(http://s1.postimage.org/pu5Tr.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxpu5Tr)
(http://s1.postimage.org/pu8nA.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxpu8nA)
I have left room on the servo tray above the motors for a servo to open the transom door, if I decide to go down that route. The cross linkages on the rudder stocks are from a plane/helicopter set-up and are very easy to remove yet have very little play in them. I thought with the poor access once the stern garage is in place, I will need all the help I can get for maintenance. I also made the brass rudder horns with this in mind too. I have extended the rudder tubes to above the waterline inside, but with enough space to work on them under the transom garage. With a little grease, this should minimise the water ingress here. I epoxied a ply web behind each tube to make them rigid, and managed to keep the tolerances fine so there is very little play in the rudders but they still turn sweetly.
Chris
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looks good m8 keep up the good work
rich
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The "bath" launch went well, no leaks and battery position established.
What do I do about washers between the prop. lock nut and the shaft? Will simple brass or stainless ones do?
Chris
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Having passed the bath test, (hope my wife doesn't see this photo) and found roughly where the batteries need to go for fore and aft trim, I made two trays from ply that I bonded to the hull, outboard and alongside the motor positions. On top of those I've fitted aluminium trays in which the battery sits to stop athwartships movement, but allows me to position them over a large fore and aft position for trim. The batteries are held down by straps with the new velcro that clicks together...often used in model helicopters as it is strong and positive but easy to pull apart when needed. The thought of a 12v 7aH battery rolling around in there was a bit scary.
I have chosen to place the batteries at the sides (rather than along the centreline) to help give the model a better scale roll in non-scale seas. Any ideas on this?
(http://s2.postimage.org/L8aEA.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsL8aEA)
(http://s2.postimage.org/L8d8J.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsL8d8J)
(http://s2.postimage.org/L8uBJ.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsL8uBJ)
I've deliberately left the wiring long at the moment because I know the moment I shorten and neaten it, I'll find it would have worked better with a different layout. Again, any ideas on my layout would be warmly welcome. Hopefully off to the lake this weekend for it's trial sail (with a temporary cover over that big hole in the stern!).
I am about to start painting the Y boat. I want a matt or satin finish. What can I spray over the Halfords orange to achieve this? I've seen Spectra satin spray...anyone out there know if this is any good over Halfords spray?
Chris
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Hi Chris
Humbrol do a matt spray varnish if thats any use?
Cheers
Russ
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The Tamar took to the water for the first time today on a local lake.
The two Graupner Speed 900BB motors push her along easily at scale speed with a good wash from the transom. She has good turning characteristics at speed, and easy low speed manoeuvring with the bow thruster and the two motors on separate channels (I'm not using a mixer).
I underestimated the power of the props though, and in reverse, one of the Graupner universal joints pulled apart, allowing the prop on it's shaft to fall back onto the rudder. I am going to fit colletts with a grub screw around the shafts just ahead of the prop tube inside the boat to stop that happening again....unless there is a better way, anyone?
I am still mystified by electronics though, and when I first set it up at the lakeside, nothing would respond to the controls, despite it working at home one hour previously. I realised that I had put the power wires to the bow thruster motor on the wrong way round, so I reversed them and everything worked properly! How does that work?
Anyway, that's the first major hurdle out of the way, and so now on with the build.
Chris
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The Tamar took to the water for the first time today on a local lake.
The two Graupner Speed 900BB motors push her along easily at scale speed with a good wash from the transom. She has good turning characteristics at speed, and easy low speed manoeuvring with the bow thruster and the two motors on separate channels (I'm not using a mixer).
Hi chris,
What calculation are you using for scale speed as knowing what it takes to get a Severn to run at 7.2 Knots (Scale Speed for 1/12) and also running Graupner 900 in my arun I find it hard to believe that 900's on 12Volts could provide enough thrust to push a Tamar at scale speed.
Regards
John
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I suppose it all depends on what scale of speed you want it to look right at, if it lifts the bow and pushes a nice wave at 3/4 throttle then it should look ok.....
Russ
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John,
It's a fair cop! My comments were based purely on visual. The model looked like it looks in real life, in photos and in video. Bows nicely raised, planing but solid in the water, and with a nice amount of white water behind. I was running it without its cabin, but it was doing 6-8 knots. You would have had to jog hard to keep up with it!
I was using the 5 bladed props from the kit, and remember they are working in efficient tunnels on the Tamar.
My mate took a video on his camera and is putting it on disc for me. As soon as I have it, I will post it on YouTube and post a link to it here.
kind regards,
Chris
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i am looking forward to seeing the photos / video
rich
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OK, so the boat works, now on to the detail. (Video will follow when I can work out how to post on youtube!)
Having started on the upper helm area, with Adrian's lovely laser cut perspex parts, I assembled the whole stowage wall/mast box structure and glued it in place at the back of the GRP cabin moulding, using it to locate the upper helm/doorway GRP moulding. After a couple of hours of careful manipulation, and then allowing the P38/P40 to set overnight, it looked horrible. I'd had to squeeze it in place and the cabin sides had distorted. Then I realised I had left out some of the perspex detail parts from the mast boxes, and to top it all, I should have fitted the mast supports in place first. That was it, I set to with my dremel and took it all out. Glad I did though, because everything has gone together easily this time.
Looking at the brass parts for the mast, I find it a bit daunting with no instructions or individual part numbers. Trying to match up the tiny parts with the parts on the real boat photos is so time consuming. When I finally do though it is so pleasing. Anyone with knowledge of where it all fits, apply here!
I've been playing with the airbrush to get detail effects, and managed to replicate the air intake effect on the mast box with silver sprayed over matt black. Tamiya masking tape makes life much easier. It gives really crisp edges, and no pulling of the paint.
Chris
(http://s3.postimage.org/Kn4xr.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqKn4xr)
(http://s4.postimage.org/tFKV0.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVtFKV0)
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I've joined the modern world and posted my first you-tube clip!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXC1aTzLRWw
This is the first run, and doesn't include the part where I lost a propellor as it left the bank for the first time. Fortunately it wedged against the rudder so I was able to reconnect it. However it left me very nervous that day, so I stuck to 3/4 throttle at most for this clip.
Chris
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Well done, Chris.
She looks good and steady. I bet you were thrilled to bits.
Roger in France
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To everyone making the Speedline Tamar, I am trying to assemble the starboard rope reel box and can't work out which part is the top of it.
Anyone know which sheet it is on?
thanks,
Chris
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To everyone making the Speedline Tamar, I am trying to assemble the starboard rope reel box and can't work out which part is the top of it.
Anyone know which sheet it is on?
OK, found it, it turned out to be a vac-form moulding.
Chris
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Q. What do you call a cross between a 3D jigsaw puzzle and a Rubik's Cube?
A. A Tamar cockpit!
..... but so satisfying when it all goes together. Having made the side mast boxes, this time with all of Adrian's excellent perspex parts, and fitted the mast support brackets from the inside (thanks Rich for that tip), painted the port ventilation grill and masked it off to prevent over-painting later, I finally reassembled the cockpit. I also did a test spray first to make sure I could get paint to all the hard-to-reach areas when it was put together. This time the mast support boxes fitted flush and there was no distortion of the side panels. The rope reel box also went together well with it's vac-form top and looks good.
Chris
ps I've just spotted the white duct tape on the cockpit side in the photos. Not a standard feature on Tamars, just me wanting everything to set overnight before I finally release it!
(http://s3.postimage.org/qjVqi.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqqjVqi)
(http://s3.postimage.org/qk1UJ.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pqqk1UJ)
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Looking good m8 glad i could be of help
rich
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I've had a go at the three liferafts that fit in the stowage wall.
I made one in wood, took a mould of half of it in silicone and turned the others out in GRP using the mould. I played around with different resins, hence the odd colours!
The decals are home made on the computer and decal paper, but are too white at present. I hope they will tone down after a spray of satin clear. I just need to fit the grab handles in the black patch (I'm right out of 1/12 webbing right now!) and the restraining strap to keep them in place.
Chris
(http://s2.postimage.org/ne9nS.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Tsne9nS)
(http://s2.postimage.org/nebT0.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsnebT0)
(http://s4.postimage.org/ECsb9.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVECsb9)
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I've got a workshop back again (I had the last one knocked down and rebuilt), so as a reward, I had a day on the Y Boat to try and finish it. Nearly there. I had decided I was going to finish it and get it out of the way before I did anymore to the Tamar itself. I haven't got the right numbers for the Salcombe lifeboat y-boat yet; they will go on later.
(http://s3.postimage.org/1ccr5132c/IMG_1324.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ccr5132c/)
For some reason, I can't upload the other photos, so I'll post them later.
Chris
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Looking good Chris :-))
Russ
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Thanks Russ,
OK managed to get the others uploaded now.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ggzzkapw/IMG_1321_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ggzzkapw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1gh4y6c78/IMG_1322_3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gh4y6c78/)
Now I'm going to have a go at the transom garage on the Tamar!
Chris
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That's a model in its own right! O0
Superb bit of modelling!
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Now that the Y-boat is finished, it's time to make the transom garage for it.
(http://s2.postimage.org/23nnz8dd0/door.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/23nnz8dd0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/23nsxueuc/hinges.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/23nsxueuc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/23nuldrc4/garage.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/23nuldrc4/)
I'm new to soldering, so those hinges were bit of a struggle. However, they've stayed together long enough to photograph them! The area in the floor is a cutout (currently covered with masking tape inside) for access to the rudders. This will later have a false floor over it with the detailing, and also hidden by the y-boat!
Chris
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Here are the hinges for the transom door, the lower, offset half of which doubles as the top attachment of the trim tab rams with their protective cage.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1ohjf02ck/hinges.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ohjf02ck/)
And here with the operating rams and hinges for the transom door. Everything will be sprayed "chrome" when finished.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1ohtc85b8/Hinge_and_Ram.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ohtc85b8/)
Chris
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nice bit of soldering there chris......is it all soft or silver soldered or a mixture of both.
neil.
http://www.justgiving.com/lochnessscalesail
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Neil,
Thanks.
It's all soft soldered; I've not mastered silver soldering yet. The down side is trying to keep everything in position when you apply the heat for the next part! However I've taken tips from Phil's website, where he uses Aligator clips and metal blocks to keep things in place. So far, it's worked.
Chris
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you've done a masterful job then chris...........holding all those parts in possition must have been a nightmare,
well done to you.
neil.
http://www.justgiving.com/lochnessscalesail
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Hello Chris
Nice neat soldering :-)) I use blu tack to cover and hold in place soldered parts if there is more soldering to be done.
Paul
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does that work, paul..neat tip if so, cheers.
http://www.justgiving.com/lochnessscalesail
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as oposed to spraying your parts "chrome " could you not get them nickle chrome plated ?
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That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about that. There are the trim tabs to do as well so it would be a nice batch. It's not something I've done before; presumably it's fairly easy to find someone who does this sort of work? What's the best route, do a Google search for them here in South Devon?
Thanks for the tip!
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does that work, paul..neat tip if so, cheers.
It sure does work :-))
Paul
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Here's the first of the trim tabs assembled, but not cleaned up yet.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1bvm2yq1w/trim_tab.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1bvm2yq1w/)
Chris
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...and the Transom exhaust outlets.
You've got to hand it to Adrian at Speedline, when you can finally work out how his parts go together, they are a treat. Though to be fair, he did supply good instructions for this part!
(http://s3.postimage.org/1d8i2qsqs/exhauts_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d8i2qsqs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/1dazdrjes/exhauts_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1dazdrjes/)
It seems a pity to have to plate or paint the brass work.
Chris
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as oposed to spraying your parts "chrome " could you not get them nickle chrome plated ?
Having now asked lots of electroplaters across the UK, most said that the parts were too small for them, and the best quote I have had so far for the job, of those who could do it, was £150!
Anyone know anything I don't know? That's too high for me and I think I'll go down the spray paint route.
Chris
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Prior to painting the hull, I had a go at marking the waterline last night.
So that I will know where it is through the first coats of primer, I decided to bite the bullet, measure it from above, below and sideways to make sure it was in the right place and then lightly scored it into the glass fibre.
First I marked out on the hull the exact position of the waterline at the bow and the two rear quarters. Then using these, I set the boat up square on it's stand on my flatest worktop so that the three marks were all exactly the same height above the bench. I put masking tape around the hull/stand join to keep the hull in that position. I used an engineer's combination set with a dental probe attached, which sat squarely on the bench and was able to slide around the clean worktop scribing a neat line into the hull.
I then scored a second line above this to mark out the white boot-top stripe between the two. This setup can reach into the area around the hard chines forward, giving the correct width for the boot-top in that undercut.
(http://s2.postimage.org/zia1m5b8/waterline.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zia1m5b8/)
Chris
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I used a Laser for the waterline very quick and easy :-))
Paul
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I used a Laser for the waterline very quick and easy :-))
Paul,
Good tip.
I tried that first and, as you say, very quick and easy. However I was concerned about having to remark it after each coat of paint. On my full size boat, repainting the antifouling is easy as the waterline is moulded in to the hull, so I thought I would try this more permanent technique.
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And so the painting begins....
I've painted in the white waterline first so that it looks bright white rather than painted over red or blue; I 'm not sure if this is a good idea now. I'm relying on Tamiya masking tape to bail me out later on this one!
The antifouling on the Salcombe lifeboat is red, so it's Halfords red primer straight from the can. It looks a bit orange in the bottom photo, but looks right in the flesh.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2ddk13tok/P5250001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ddk13tok/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2dd559p8k/P5250003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dd559p8k/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2ddqn97no/P6160005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ddqn97no/)
Chris
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I have looked at this site it may be of intrest with rtegard to the plating of small parts videos aare impresive
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php
Regards
Colin
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The Tamar is looking great and your obviously enjoying it. I tried to make the exhausts out of stainless but it is so hard a materiel it is not possible to bend the exhaust sides properly. Shame, it would have looked look great.
Be warned about some chrome paints etc because when the are lacquered they can loose the chrome effect and look just like silver paint. Some chrome acrylics done last very long in the water either. Bit of a so and so really.
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Blimey Adrian its good to see you are still about, thought you had emigrated after not replying to my dozen or so e-mails???? {:-{
Russ
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Hi Russ.
Its all been a bit tricky lateley. As you know, I work full time (or did till last week) for BAe and have spent some time away from home. I also had another poorly spell then made redundant so all in all, since November last year things have not been good but, I think were back together again now.
I start with Rolls-Royce next month and that means I'm home very night so bum back in gear at last.
I hope to keep in touch a bit through this site too.
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Good to see you back posting on Mayhem Adrian. Hope you're feeling better? I got made redundant last October and have still not found full time work, it's not easy is it. Looking forward to your thoughts and input on the builds and topics on here. I should be starting my 1/12 Severn sometime this year, might need a few bits off you when I finally get started, it'll be Holyheads, 17-41 Christopher Pearce. Cheers, Dave. :-))
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I have looked at this site it may be of intrest with rtegard to the plating of small parts videos aare impresive
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php
Regards
Colin
I have done this one myself it works OK on flat brass sheet, but you really have to get it clean first, and then polish it before the chrome will take, I have also tried the professional chrome spray paint, and again works OK on larger areas, but as most of the items are small, you don't get the shine, so just went for a spay in the end.
Phil.
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Hi fellow Speedline Tamar builders!
I am stuck with Adrian's Forward Escape Hatch, part 65.
Can anyone explain how they used the parts supplied to get the finished result, preferably with a photo!
thanks in frustration,
Chris
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In the meantime, the first coats of blue paint go on the hull.
I'm using Halfords rattle cans. Ford Galaxy Blue. Interestingly, the first and third cans gave really nice, smooth even coats. The second, middle can was rubbish! The paint felt thicker than the others and was a really poor spray pattern. So I just used it for build-up coats and rubbed it down well. I got two coats from each can, so here we are 5 coats on.
It's a really nice finish....so do I risk one more coat?.....
(http://s3.postimage.org/12y58exz8/P6300017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/12y58exz8/)
Chris
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It's looking nice, I think if it was mine and it was a good finish I'd leave it at that, quit while you're ahead! Dave. ;)
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Chris please see photos, but you will need to make up the inner surround as yet again its been missed from the kit.
Your spray job is fine :-)) got to 2nd Dave's comments on that, if you are happy then leave to harden off
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Chris J asks....... "so do I risk one more coat?" .....
5 coats & a great surface finish :-)) ...I would not risk it.......let it cure then remove the masking.......... O0 ........Derek
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Chris please see photos, but you will need to make up the inner surround as yet again its been missed from the kit.
Thanks for the photos, exactly what I needed. I thought those parts were missing! I can crack on now.
I've been very good and not gone into the workshop and fiddled with the paint job! I'll leave it over the weekend to harden. I've learnt my lesson with masking tape and now only use Tamiya at the paint edge with normal "HomeB&Qit-all" cheap stuff over the top.
Thanks guys.
Chris
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Looks super. Did you stop at 5?
Bad news for me I'm afraid. I START WORK TOMORROW!
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Yes, I took everyone's advice and stopped at 5 coats of paint.
Then I had to peel off the masking tape, which has been on for three weeks. So...hands up all those who love Tamiya masking tape!! A perfect edge. I used the technique advocated by someone on the "Painting, Finishing and Care" section who said to peel the tape back on itself as you removed it. I've not used this tape before and It's really not like any other. Gorgeous to use.
OK advert over. I pre-painted the waterline in white before the blue and it worked well, so I'll post a picture when I've finished the antifouling too. Thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences on Meyhem. It's really helped.
Chris
ps flundle, sorry about the work thing!
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I'll second that about Tamiya masking tape, not the cheapest, but the best I've used so far, Dave. :-))
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I've been using 3M masking tape and wish I hadn't - not very good.
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Martin,
I've always used "Family Safe" when adding images. I've noticed this over the past few days all over Meyhem, even when looking at old posts.
But feel free to delete any of my photo posts! I suspect the problem is with the "Postimage.org" website.
Chris
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i used family safe, but still got the naughty advert, surely its the picture we are uploading which we are stating is family safe - not the trashy pop up ads on the host site ?
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A quick web search reveals it's now a known problem - I've now uninstalled " Simple Image Upload " >:-o
To upload photos to your post:
Resize and Upload to Mayhem:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23.msg2630#msg2630
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23.msg36#msg36
Photobucket:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2277.msg108900#msg108900
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If you open any picture on Meyhem in PostImage.org, there is a "report abuse or request deletion" option bottom right. If you click on that, you can send an e-mail to them.
I have just sent one telling them that their adverts are inappropriate and I won't use their website until changed. If enough people do the same they may get the message....yeh, I know....and Pigs will fly, but it's worth a try!
Chris
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I don't know what you've done Martin, but it worked. The pictures have lost the naughty adverts! Thank you.
Chris
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Photos of the de-masked hull. I'll leave it to harden now and crack on with the cabin exterior.
(http://s3.postimage.org/ku7xidok/P7070003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ku7xidok/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/kuq4f744/P7070006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kuq4f744/)
Chris
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I've started making all those little bits that adorn the cabin sides, starting from the pointy end.
I bit the bullet and remade the forward facing comms. box supports (underneath the windows) out of styrene sheet to a more realistic size. Sorry Adrian, your laser cut parts are fabulous, but I couldn't see how to make those the right size this time. They still seem too big but the perspex comms. boxes that fit on them are so well made I'm going to use them anyway.
(http://s3.postimage.org/1bm12bszo/P8160004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1bm12bszo/)
Then I came across these. They are part of SA60. The 1/2 round one on the left is the forward end of the boat hook support, no problem, but what is the 1/4 round one on the right? I can't find it on the Speedline plans nor the RNLI plans. Any ideas anyone, Adrian?
(http://s3.postimage.org/1bi4hnb0k/P8160003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1bi4hnb0k/)
Chris
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Great looking build.
I've toyed with the idea of getting one of these kits of the Tamar as I like big scale models. But, there's a lot of fiddly brasswork that needs soldering as can be seen in some of the pics which puts me off. That's a real shame.
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Thank you.
You are right that there is a lot of small fiddly soldering to do. However, this is my first attempt at this sort of soldering, and so far, it's not going too badly. One piece defeated me totally and so I resorted to superglue, and was able to back it up (unseen I hope) with a piece of glass fibre scrim for strength! I won't say which bit, but will wait and see if anyone can spot it later!
So it's not impossible, you end up with a new skill and the result is really satisfying. I've learnt to not get de-moralised looking at the small parts, think it through first, clean everything twice and then just set-to. Philsrcmodels website has some good tips on holding the bits together while you solder, and his ideas helped me a lot; thank you Phil.
Chris
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I'm pretty sure the two pieces you are questioning are both for the boat hook ends. All lifeboats have two different boathooks. The one mounted on the port side is white and has, if I remember correctly two hooks, so the part with the two radiused corners is the one for that. The other starboard boathook has a single hook and a fend off piece so this fits into the piece with the single corner radius to the lower side. The hook ends are always towards the bow. The other end of the boathooks are retained in a channel type of fitting, deep enough for a retaining pin or drop pin to keep the boathook in place.
Hope it helps
Les
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Les,
Thank you for that; good answer. I'd worked out the channel type fitting aft and the stbd forward one, so that really helps.
Chris
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Les,
I just been to the RNLI in Poole and they kindly let me take photos of exactly what you described. It's all clear now. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
Chris
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I've bought Halfords VW Brilliant Orange to start painting the cabin after success with the blue on the hull.
I was surprised to see that it states to use grey primer on the cans; I was expecting to need white. Anyone used this colour with grey primer, and any comments?
Chris
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Use white primer, if you use grey it WILL look too dark. Trust me, been there, done that myself. Dave. O0
-
I used white primer on mine and it comes up just about a perfect match with the real thing. See my Trent pics for Onslow in the lifeboats forum.
-
Handrails now bent up to shape and soldered together. Still quite a steep learning curve, but getting easier with each component. I've sprayed behind them with primer and a single coat of orange before glueing them in place as I cant see how they will get coated with paint so close to the cabin sides (or am I just being too cautious?).
(http://s3.postimage.org/z9w0y938/P9140041.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z9w0y938/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/zackbq10/P9140042.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zackbq10/)
Chris
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Handrails now bent up to shape and soldered together. Still quite a steep learning curve, but getting easier with each component. I've sprayed behind them with primer and a single coat of orange before glueing them in place as I cant see how they will get coated with paint so close to the cabin sides (or am I just being too cautious?).
(http://s3.postimage.org/z9w0y938/P9140041.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z9w0y938/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/zackbq10/P9140042.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zackbq10/)
Chris
On bits like rails where, if you are using a rattle can with the best endeavours behind the rail never gets sprayed properly, I leave off the model, spray the required area, in this case the cabin, spray or paint the rails separately then add to the boat.
Just be careful gluing the rail in place. If you do get a 'sheen' of glue on the superstructure, when you add your varnish or lacquer, this will make it look more seamless.
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Hi Chris
How are you getting on with the Tamar since you moved? Have you tackled the main mast yet? I hope to make mine in the next couple of weeks....
Thanks
Russ
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Russ,
No work at all at present, as I am holidaying in Mallorca! Bright but cold, although went to watch IOM sailing next to the cathedral in Palma yesterday. No lifeboats, but a very nice llaud in attendance to help them out.
(http://s17.postimage.org/w949wdz57/IMG_3630.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w949wdz57/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/5ysk5w2rx/IMG_3643.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5ysk5w2rx/)
Big problem is that the new house, although only 100 metres from Poole model boating lake, doesn't have a workshop!!! (don't ask!). As the old house still hasn't sold, I'm planning on doing a blitz on the Tamar in the workshop there when I get back to Devon next week. All very frustrating.
Chris
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Ok Chris no worries, you have a good time out there and we will catch up when you get back...
Russ
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Hi Guys,
I'm detailing the cabin sides and have got to part 49,the aerial. I've built the through-cabin support and it's end parts, but not sure where all the other small brass pieces go! Any ideas, you Tamar builders?
Chris
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Any pictures of the parts in question Chris?
Russ
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OK, these are the little critters:
(http://s8.postimage.org/n1cwv9nsh/P1250019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n1cwv9nsh/)
And the other question I meant to ask is from what do you make the two aerials themselves?
Chris
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Chris
I my memory is right the squares locate on the aerials and they locate in to
The brackets which are fixed to the ends of the support
Which goes through the cabin. The thin strips are the aerial
Supports which are on the side of the cabin which the aerials
Rest on when they are folded down
Hope this helps
Rich
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Thanks Rich.
And the aerials themselves? What did you make them from?
Chris
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Thanks for the help with those small parts Rich, I've bent them up and put them aside to spray.
I've just started to assemble the windscreen. I've identified all the parts and where they go and as usual Adrian has done a fantastic job.
However, I cannot get it to sit onto the GRP cabin roof on the middle flat section (click on the photo to see the problem). When bent to shape and fitting up against the door moulding top as it is designed to do, it is 4mm too high along the middle flat area. It's fine at the sides where it bends backwards.
What have you guys done here? Have I missed a part?
(http://s13.postimage.org/d9xpsxk0z/P1260025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d9xpsxk0z/)
Also, what glue did you use to sandwich the perspex between the brass? I've done a test piece with superglue and didn't get any fogging.
Chris
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Hi Chris
The wheelhouse moulding is slightly out, you will need to filler it out...
Russ
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Chris
I agree with Russ you do need a small amount of filler, my aerials I used 2.4 mm plastic tube with 1 mm plastic rod for the whip there are
Some photos of the whips when cabin wasn't painted
Rich
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Managed to get a lot of the cabin exterior detail done today. With Speedline there is certainly a lot of it! Not far off from painting the orange now, just a few bits to make.
I also decided to strip all the paint off the brass parts from the transom. I had got a good finish on them, but finished with a cheap clear varnish and they turned out rubbish. Serves me right for buying cheap! So I still haven't got the transom door on yet.
(http://s15.postimage.org/fpqxxbns7/P2020005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fpqxxbns7/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/dos4nraqb/P2020007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dos4nraqb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/uttk45qp3/P2020010.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uttk45qp3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/w2m13j813/P2020011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w2m13j813/)
Too cold to carry on, so I'm going in to get warm.
Chris
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Why is it we can hold down quite serious jobs with no problem, and yet get in such a tangle over spraying a bit of Halford's primer on a model boat!
I've looked at all the photos, searched the kit instructions, studied the plans and can't find anything else to make or glue on to the cabin before spraying. So I've put down the first coat of white primer...... but I'm sure there's something I've forgotten. Oh well....here goes!
(http://s18.postimage.org/f6lt0mesl/P2200002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f6lt0mesl/)
Chris
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Speedline 1/12 Tamar.
I've soldered the mast together. Now I am left with quite a few bits for it (S.A. 76) and I can't see where to put them. Anyone out there who can help identify exactly what these are please?
(http://s10.postimage.org/e78lh5omd/Screen_Shot_2012_09_24_at_14_48_57.png) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/gto3y3ftx/Screen_Shot_2012_09_24_at_14_49_31.png) (http://postimage.org/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/w1v44ayyv/Screen_Shot_2012_09_24_at_14_50_03.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w1v44ayyv/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/dbzmysd8h/Screen_Shot_2012_09_24_at_14_51_23.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dbzmysd8h/)
I'm pretty sure that the round parts are for the various lights, but the square section ones...? As for the brass and stainless parts; I have no idea.
many thanks,
Chris
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Hi guys,
I'm about to glue the rubber fendering on to the 1/12 Speedline Tamar hull. What is the best glue to use?
Chris
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Put my Tamar to one side.
Couldn't see how the inside Perspex bits of the cabin fitted together. Nothing about them in Adrians write up or on his Disk
So am slowly plodding on with JoTiKa Victory and a Fleetscale based Missouri - just can't find any 1:128 Mk 51 or Mk 57 Directors for Missouri!!
KenP
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Ken,
I've had a similar problem with the kit. But I am determined to finish it now, so I'm back in the shed working methodically. Given up trying to have electric lights and stuff. Just want to see it finished!
So....Cyano or Bostick for the fendering? What do you think?
Chris
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Ken,
I've had a similar problem with the kit. But I am determined to finish it now, so I'm back in the shed working methodically. Given up trying to have electric lights and stuff. Just want to see it finished!
So....Cyano or Bostick for the fendering? What do you think?
Chris
Evostick Timebond is the best adhesive for the fenders, it allows you to adjust the positioning as you fit it and is flexible after drying.
-
Thank you for that. I'll use it. :-))
Chris
-
I also use Evostick
KenP
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midships
at last got all bits required from adrian
have you any suggestions on fixing the rubber fender to the hull ,pity adrian did not have some sort of dove tail fixing on to the hull with a corresponding groove in the rubber moulding makeing it easier to line up .now about to start on the transom door did you bolt the transom hinge assembly on to the transom before completing it ,have asked adrian and model mayhem users the purpose of the thin styrne sheets which seem to be a templete for the transom door and y boat floor no reply yet ,frustration is now setting in
thanks for your time
midships :((
-
midships
have you any suggestions on fixing the rubber fender to the hull
Midships,
In the end, I worked out where the fendering was going and put a strip of masking tape at it's lower edge. This served as a guide as it was easy to see that it was curved fairly to match the sheer of the deck and the run off at the rear. It also meant that any glue would not run down the hull. I sanded the rear of the rubber, cleaned it and the hull with meths and then applied Evostick to the hull and to the rubber. Went in for a cuppa while it all dried and then later slowly stuck it down from the front working aft keeping the top edge flush with the deck. The bevels at the rear quarters (next to the steps) and the transom I cut with the old fashioned razor-blade-in-a-holder and mitred the transom pieces on in the same way. I popped two screws through the rubber at the bow to hold the tight curve in place and they are hidden by the bow roller.
Hope that helps,
Chris
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Hi
The thin styrne plastic piece is to bridge transom door to Y boat boat well when transom door is open, I have disgarded styrne and made mine out of rolled brass sheet using plastic pieces as the profile then stuck them to the brass.
If you require photos contact me sending me your email address
Akers
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midships
now about to start on the transom door did you bolt the transom hinge assembly on to the transom before completing it ,have asked adrian and model mayhem users the purpose of the thin styrne sheets which seem to be a templete for the transom door and y boat floor no reply yet
midships
I made up the Y-boat garage and transom door first. I then put the door temporarily in place with tape and with spacers all round to keep it clear of the opening (it won't open if it touches anywhere). Then I marked out, from the RNLI plans, where the hinges should go on the door. I stuck the hinges to the door first, reinforcing them with the tiny bolts in the kit, glued through the holes in the hinges into tiny holes drilled through the door grp. This then allows you to see where the lower part of the hinge assembly goes on the hull. Because of the complexity of the hinge, you need to allow a bit of free play in each hinge bolt for it to work well. Note that if you put the exhaust outlets even slightly too high from the RNLI plans, they can foul the door opening. I had put mine on first and they just touched! I had to remove them and lower them 2mm.
I didn't get any thin styrene parts for the transom so I can't help you with those I'm afraid.
Chris
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midships
have asked adrian and model mayhem users the purpose of the thin styrne sheets which seem to be a templete for the transom door and y boat floor no reply yet ,frustration is now setting in
thanks for your time
midships :((
The thine styrene sheet is not a template, it is an actual part - the curved bridge between the boat deck and the open door. It is fixed to the bottom edge of the door and the other long edge slides across the deck.
see the photo on this page ................ http://danwalker.co.uk/Pictures/Y_Class/TAMAR.jpg (http://danwalker.co.uk/Pictures/Y_Class/TAMAR.jpg)
-
Hi
Yes I know the styrne was not man enough so i made mine out of brass
Akers
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Hi
Yes I know the styrne was not man enough so i made mine out of brass
Akers
I know the piece you mean now. Yes mine snapped straight away too. Not sure I'm going to use it anyway now; the Y-boat hides it in the garage in mine.
Chris
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Cj1........I make no appologies for my "rant", and it wasn't about the question of how to fix rubber to hull..
It was for the fact that some questions put on here show no thought about the question asked, and are a total waste of time and effort for anyone to answer.
the guy answered his own questions about dovetailing rubber into a hull by the fact that it has taken months to get his remaining parts from Speedline........and if you were to do some homework yourself as to the answer to the question..ie, look here....... you'd also realise why kit manufacturers give the modeller at least something to solve for themselves in order to keep costs down.
http://companycheck.co.uk/company/06199397 (http://companycheck.co.uk/company/06199397)
you might see why people such as Speedline DON'T dovetail their rubber into the hulls at vast expense and go to the extra expense of silicone moulds to produce such a finely undercut mould as one person requests.
If you want a kit that slots together piece by piece........buy an airfix/revelle kit where the building is done for you.
Kit building, as is scratch, an enjoyable pastime where ingenuity is needed to solve problems and half the questions put on here have been answered before, if people only took the time to look and search. and not make silly statements as to producing rubber with dovetailing on it to fit into a hull or other part to fix onto a hull that is a no go anyway if only one was to think about it.
So, instead of making a personal castigation about me (as named in your post) or any other member on here,and a reason as to why you don't post often, think about the question first, and do some research please to see if it has been answered befor...........as the question of gluing rubber has been answered several times.........including the tip you gave to put masking tape on the lower edge..............I mentioned that many moons ago............so nothing is new.
Now, my rant, as you called it is over. <*< <*< <*< <*< <*<
.
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Although I do stand by my rant about research and questions continuously posted, I would like to apologise to Midships for a somewhat over bearing attack on him, and am sorry if I did make derogatory opening comments.
I suppose we all have our foibles as to what we expect from a kit, but it might be easier on those who spend inordinate amounts of time, effort and money on developing these kits if, as the potential purchasers, that they put these to the manufacturers first, and await their comments.
sorry to midships.
-
Just wanted to say a thank you to Adrian at Speedline.
I know several of us have got frustrated at slow responses from him at times, but he has just helped me out with a big problem with my 1/12 Tamar, four years after I bought it; no fuss and quickly too.
So I'd like to say a public thank you to him for good service.
Chris
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hi
i agree with the latest posting regarding adrian and speed line, adrian has helped where he can despite illness in the family ,i think most of the problems stem from all forms of or lack of communication and response to e mails and phone calls ,most problems are able to be solved by looking at and talking to other modelers on the eccellent model mayhem forum sites , on the tamar kit there are 77 elements all with sub elements perhaps on some of the parts a drawing would be helpfull and some of the resin parts on the sprue could be numbered ,i relise that some of the more expirenced modlers might say that becuse of its complexety the kit should not be attempted by other than experencd modellers but it can also be looked on as gaining new skills with a model to be proud of at the end
perhaps it would have helped if all the parts were baged in the relevent numbers while at the factory instead of findinig the parts required are some times on diffrent sheets
thanks to all modellers on model boat mayhem for their advice
-
A bit more progress on the Tamar....at last.
Chris
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Chris, she is looking good.Amongst other things are you going to have the radar working and if so what motor can you use that is small enough?
Cheers
Mick F
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Chris, she is looking good.Amongst other things are you going to have the radar working and if so what motor can you use that is small enough?
Cheers
Mick F
DBH Services sells a geared motor that can be completely hidden inside the radar housing and rotates realistically on 1.5v. There is no website, but their contact is 01895 813 806 and email [email protected]
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Graupner also do a geared motor that should fit but it runs on 6v so may not be what you're after.
Phil
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I looked at the Graupner one. it is the right size but at £30 odd, I'm leaving it out at present. There's lots of things I'd like to work but I've decided to leave.....opening transom door, mast etc.
Chris
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I have made a Jason's Cradle though! I was able to get a photo of one. On the Tamar, it sits on the floor in front of the rope reel. You can just see it hiding there!
Chris
-
looks great and I love the small y boat
-
Thanks Tazie,
I'm not too far away, also in Poole!
Here's the y-boat in situ. A tip for those not this far on with their Tamar. When building the transom garage, check that there is enough room for your y-boat. When I offered mine up to the finished garage space, I was 5mm too short!! arrgh! My y-boat is now subtly modified.
Chris
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very nice indeed, chris.
-
I will second that looking really good.
Mick F
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Now the guard rails are on, it has a real presence. The photos don't do justice to Adrian's kit. But I'm putting some on anyway.
-
One word
AWESOME :-)) :-)) :-))
Ned
-
Lovely job Chris,and a smashing finish. One query matey,is what is the second model you have on the wall next to the Tamar plans? Looks a very expensive bit of kit,I bet you wont be making that one Lol! ;) ;) :-)) %) %)
Mick F
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Lovely job Chris,and a smashing finish. One query matey,is what is the second model you have on the wall next to the Tamar plans? Looks a very expensive bit of kit,I bet you wont be making that one Lol! ;) ;) :-)) %) %)
Mick F
If you do can you make me one!.
-
absolutely beautiful............magnificent.
neil.
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I agree, it looks fantastic.
-
Lovely job Chris,and a smashing finish. One query matey,is what is the second model you have on the wall next to the Tamar plans? Looks a very expensive bit of kit,I bet you wont be making that one Lol! ;) ;) :-)) %) %)
Mick F
Ah yes. Miss February! What can I say? One of my christmas presents. I don't think Speedline do that model so it will have to be scratch built.
-
Chris,
I'd quite like to make a Jacob's Cradel for my Tamar, any tips on what you did?
Thanks in advance
Phil
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Absolutely superb ...... Fantastic detailing......... Looks just like the real deal.
Peter
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Chris,
I'd quite like to make a Jacob's Cradel for my Tamar, any tips on what you did?
Thanks in advance
Phil
Hi Phil,
I made the cradle bag from thin plasticard; a simple open ended, rectangular box to fit between the rope reel container and the liferaft wall. I then heated it with an electric paint stripper set on "warm" until it started to wilt. This was a matter of trial and error but it was actually quite easy. I made up a carry handle out of 2mm ribbon with a plasticard handgrip. I then painted all this matt black, inside and out. I made up the end pieces of the cradle from 2mm square plasticard strip and after painting them fluorescent green, arranged them artistically at the open end of the bag. So, it's actually a cheat….there's no cradle in the bag! I photographed the label from the real thing and made a transfer to add to the bag.
Chris
-
…and one of the cradle in place.
-
Hi Chris,
Well you certainly fooled me! Many thanks for the explanation and photos; I'll be giving it a go soon... and making sure I call it by the right name!
Cheers
Phil
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Well, I couldn't put it off any longer! It was a dry day and those friendly folk at Poole Radio Yacht Club, just round the corner, were having an open day in Poole Park, so I took 16-09 "RNLB The Baltic Exchange III" along for her first run.
The bow thruster electronically interfered with the port motor, which I couldn't fix at the pond-side, so I ran it just on the starboard one.
Thanks to all those at PRYC who helped me move the lump (I really hadn't realised how much it weighed with batteries on-board) and offered help and advice.
http://youtu.be/tpuYLlvN9GM
Chris
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very nice chris.....well done.
neil.
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Thank you Neil.
It was very satisfying to see it on the water at last.
Chris
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hi chris
well done nice to hear of another tamar on the water ,will your next project have less head scratching and less tea or will it be a case of i have done it once so i can do it again ,getting on slowly with my tamar hope to have it on the water about november , will have my pro boat rockstar 48 by june so if i need an escape will run it to ease any frustrations as i sense there is more to come on the tamar
well done
regards howard
midships
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Looking really good Chris; bet it'll fly with both motors running!
Phil
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The Link to the Video does not work tor me. <:(
-
The Link to the Video does not work tor me. <:(
Or me, it comes up video private.
Regards Dave.
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Hi guys, sorry about that. I've done something silly with my Google account (probably refused to let them have my soul as well as every other bit of information about me) and so they've closed my youTube account! I'm working on reinstating it.
Chris
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OK. Lets try again. I hope this works as Google now own my body, mind and house……and of course my computer and everything I ever do with it!
http://youtu.be/tpuYLlvN9GM
Chris
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Now the guard rails are on, it has a real presence. The photos don't do justice to Adrian's kit. But I'm putting some on anyway.
that is a lovley build, she looks awesome, would you mind if tried post photos of my 1:12th Tamar or maybe another thread ?
-
No problem putting them here. We all love to see other's models. O0
Chris
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here is my 1:12th Tamar she was beautiful built by our club secretary at colwyn bay model boat club
-
Really nice; it looks so good on the water. I prefer them with the white antifouling too. (perhaps I should persuade Salcombe to repaint theirs white!)
Chris
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Very nice indeed! is that a part built Liverpool in the photo?
Mick F
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Very nice indeed! is that a part built Liverpool in the photo?
Mick F
no that is the hull of a rother class that a fellow club member is building
-
Really nice; it looks so good on the water. I prefer them with the white antifouling too. (perhaps I should persuade Salcombe to repaint theirs white!)
Chris
i think they look better with the white if you ask me
-
Another sunny day at Poole.
http://youtu.be/olAMge7q3jY (http://youtu.be/olAMge7q3jY)
Chris
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i think they look better with the white if you ask me
Isn't it white for a slipway launched boat. as they do not need the antifouling that an
afloat boat like Salcombe needs
Ned
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Isn't it white for a slipway launched boat. as they do not need the antifouling that an
afloat boat like Salcombe needs
Ned
ned, the early boats were all painted red anti fouling whether slip or afloat boats.......and it wasn't until later that they developed a white antifouling that wouldn't yellow and at the choice of the LOM that they started painting the boats white when slip launched.....the Cromer Tamar and others where originally red, and not for a couple of years was Cromer's boat painted white. neil.
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Thanks for the info Neil.
Ned
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Isn't it white for a slipway launched boat. as they do not need the antifouling that an
afloat boat like Salcombe needs
Ned
Apparently all Tamars will have a white lower hull when next repainted, the white "paint" also now has the anti-fouling properties.
-
….and finally they get to meet. The two 16-09s, "The Baltic Exchange III" on a lovely sunny Salcombe evening with the crew looking on.
Thanks guys and ladies.
-
top notch CJ..looks superb.
-
Thank you Neil.
And also to everyone else who has helped me with this build, either with their knowledge, skill and practical help or by their kind words.
I've really enjoyed Mayhem for that.
Chris
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hi chris
getting there slowly just setting up transom door to raise and lower , i will use channel 1 and three for throttles channel 2 for bow thruster channel 4 for steering ,will be using a futabe 6ex not sure which switch to use for the mast and transom door function
have posted a request for help regarding a distributoin board to keep things nice and tidy have had lots of looks but no replys yet if you are able to view my post on black arts and electrics this would explain all did have some help from philscale models but it looked quite complicated hence the reqest for some body to build me one or provide a wiring diagram not sure if my first post sent in capitals upset every body but it was not my intention and have posted an apology
have received my apache power boat from wavemaster mouldings and am getting bits to add on ready for april
hope you can help
thanks for your time
midships
howard
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Cant find the post in "black arts" Howard, could you post a link please?
Thanks,
Mick F
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Dear Howard,
I'm no electronics expert either and so my Tamar stops short of having everything working. So can't really help on that score I'm afraid.
I'd be interested in what you come up with though so that I can pluck up the courage to do it myself too!!
Chris
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Howard
Here's my suggestion. I didn't think you'd be too happy to wait until Sunday when the Warwick show ends and I get back. Let me know if this is OK - sorry there's no lights but I ran out of channels after six.
Dave M
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You are a b***** genious Dave.........haven't forgotten your very kind offer to sort out my electrics for the Voith powered Jupiter when I get around to that stage..........but it's a long way off that stage yet mate. %% %%
cheers, neil.
-
A couple of photos, especially for Derek, of the prop spacing jigs I used on the 1/12 Tamar. The measurements of prop position were taken from the RNLI plans.
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Thank Chris
That is a great help just waiting for my RNLI plans
Derek
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Hello CJ1,
just read your topic and wow, very nice build so far,
I got the same boat, starting it very soon, but a little scared by all the work !!
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Hi Olav,
Yes it's a huge amount of work but so satisfying.
The forum has been a great help for me and you will find lots of friends here who can give you advice. Just ask!
All the best,
Chris