Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: octo on June 04, 2010, 05:49:40 pm
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warned you previously that i was a complete novice as regards r/c thingys,
"Here come the questions". What Radio control set do i need?
Will 2channel be enough? .WHats the difference betweenAM or FM,
27mhz or40 mhz/. yours in puzzlement Tony. o
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What Radio control set do i need?
Will 2channel be enough? .WHats the difference betweenAM or FM,
27mhz or40 mhz/.
What do you want to control?
If you want forward/reverse, left/right, 2 channel will do the job. If you want to control lights, sounds, twizz guns and shoot them etc,you need more channels.
Difference between AM & FM. As long as the TX and RX match, you probably wont care. FM is somewhat less prone to interference.
27mHz, 40MHz. These are the frequency bands that we operate in. Again, as long as the TX and RX match, no problem.
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Malcolm, 2.4 GHz would be a lot easier for him? Pete
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thanks malcolm and peter, i had planned on navigation lights and diesel motor sound.
yours tony :-))
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You'll be wanting a a 4 channel or greater set then. Which means 40mhz FM or 2.4 Ghz. With 2.4Ghz you dont have to worry about frequency clashes at the pond as you not need crystals. You have to buy extra receivers from the same manufacturer though, so check out the prices of spare RX before deciding on brand. If you ever intend to operating submarines 40Mhz is your only choice as 2.4Ghz signals don't penerate water.
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Do we have a simple beginners guide somewhere?
We need to say things like:
A radio control consists of three main bits, a transmitter, receiver and a servo, which connects to the receiver.
When you move a stick on the transmitter, a little arm on the servo moves. So if you put the receiver and servo in a boat, and attach the servo arm to the rudder, you can steer the boar from a distance...
A transmitter usually has more than one stick on it. Two sticks, able to move in two directions each, is a common number. This can operate 4 servos. That is known as a 4 channel set, and with it you could control rudder and engine speed and have two channels left over for other things like turning lights on and off....
You usually buy transmitter/receiver (Tx/RX) pairs together. They operate on fixed frequencies. You have to use the legal ones, which in the UK are:
27Mhz band - all models
35 mhz band - only aircraft
40 mhz band - only surface vehicles (boats/cars)
2.4Ghz band - all models
For all the frequencies apart from 2.4Ghz, you have about 30 frequency 'spots' in a band, and you have to check that no one else is on the same spot frequency as you are before turning on. You can tell because of the frequency flags that everyone puts on their aerials. If the pond is crowded you may have to wait, or change your spot by buying another set of TX/RX crystals for a different spot.
2.4ghz automatically allocates spots, so you don't have to bother. And some very cheap Chinese kit is coming into the country, so a lot of people are going 2.4Ghz...
So, to wrap it up, You will need at least a 2-channel TX/RX pair, with two servos, to have basic boat control. You can buy 27Mhz and 2.4ghz kit cheaply at about £30, better kit at 40Mhz or 2.4Ghz at 100 upwards.
Then you will need a boat, and a motor. I've left out talking about TX and RX batteries, they don't cost much but you will need some of those as well....
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Do we have a simple beginners guide somewhere?
I think you just said it. :-))
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At the risk of sounding like a total cynic, any man/woman/child who doesn't even possess the most basic understanding of the R/C hobby, I would have to question if they have chosen the right hobby. Experience has shown that, no matter how kind you are, or no matter how much time you invest on introducing newcomers to the scene and carefully explaining all the numerous idiosyncrasies, etc, they invariably end up throwing in the towel at the first hurdle. And before you know it, they're gone in a flash - without even as much as hint of thanks.
Either that or you find that most newcomers aren't too fussed either way about etiquette and are all too ready to just bung any old Tx/Rx in their models, regardless of frequencies, and end up creating havoc for just about everyone else.
In this case, I'm prepared to be corrected (hopefully).
Time shall tell.
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At the risk of sounding like a total cynic, any man/woman/child who doesn't even possess the most basic understanding of the R/C hobby, I would have to question if they have chosen the right hobby. Experience has shown that, no matter how kind you are, or no matter how much time you invest on introducing newcomers to the scene and carefully explaining all the numerous idiosyncrasies, etc, they invariably end up throwing in the towel at the first hurdle. And before you know it, they're gone in a flash - without even as much as hint of thanks.
Either that or you find that most newcomers aren't too fussed either way about etiquette and are all too ready to just bung any old Tx/Rx in their models, regardless of frequencies, and end up creating havoc for just about everyone else.
In this case, I'm prepared to be corrected (hopefully).
Time shall tell.
One must always be careful of foot in mouth :embarrassed: as there are always exceptions ;)
I started out blissfully ignorant {:-{ and got up after the hurdles <:( >>:-( and carried on, %% not an expert but I can now understand O0 some of what some are raving about O0
and hopefully will continue to learn :-))
There is always hope so don't give up on us. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Do we have a simple Beginners guide somewhere?
I think you just said it. :-))
Good point :-)) beginners guides O0 in all sections/areas say at the start of each listing/subject or listed as such under its own section would be a plus. :-)) :-))
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PMK
Where did you learn about Radio Control?
Everyone has to start somewhere
I asked a question of a guy at a lake about the frequency
he was using. I was told I would not really understand
the technical system he was using
I walked away in disgust
With a City& Guilds Telecomms Technician Cert.
and at the time involved in satellite comms
trials for the MOD I might have had a clue!
Ned
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"...I was told I would not really understand the technical system he was using..."
In that case, the man who told you that was nothing short of a buffoon. And credit to you for sticking by your guns.
I stand by what I said, and repeat that all newcomers should at least have the decency to make the effort to study some of the ins and outs of the hobby before considering if it's the sort of thing they're capable of understanding.
It's a classic case of perhaps and maybe's. But bitter experience has proven (countless times) that anyone asking about frequencies before even knowing what a crystal does is a recipe for disaster - not to mention expensive.
Where did I learn about R/C? I learnt like everyone else - the hard way. I got off my butt and bought books/generally boned-up on the subject before making of berk of myself in front of the more experienced guys/gals. It's not hard to do, but it sure paints a bad picture if you don't.
Of course, there will always be the so-called experts, always somebody ready to give advice. But how would a novice know if that advice is any good? Poor old Octo, if he's still struggling with the basics, then how on earth would he know if someone is spinning him a yarn? Not all the advice you hear is good, so the dude is leaving himself open to all sorts of agro. Much better all round if he was to ask himself if the R/C hobby is really for him.
Like I said, I stand to be corrected. It'a not looking promising so far, but I truly hope I'm proven wrong.
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My experience was bit different. I knew nothing.
I went to the model shop and bought a sail boat, 2 Channel radio set, and sail servo. Because the man said I would need them.
I bought the cheapest radio set on the shelf.
I built the boat and off I went sailing.
Any additional knowledge I have about RC I have picked up on forums or from chaps down the pond.
Some basic guide at this level above would be easy.
However,
Now I am thinking of something a bit more sophisticated (not the RC transmitter reeciver stuff) requiring motor, speed controller, etc; I have read stuff on the forums.
The bid issue is that I do not always know what components are needed, what they do, or even what some of them are called.
I find the ACTion Electronics website guide really useful as all of thier components have a good guide and instructions showing how they fit with other components.
A guide for the internal gubbings of an electric boat is outside of the RC part, a guide would be a book. I now have one by the way, but have not had cause to use it. Bright's Complete Marine Radio Control Manual. It is recommended on many Websites.
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PS. to my last.
I have also plagued people like PMK with dumb questions.
But the only really dumb question is the one I didn't ask.
One time he prevented me starting a fire.
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To pmx !;- you will be. to every one else thanks alot :-)) :-)) :-))
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At the risk of sounding like a total cynic, any man/woman/child who doesn't even possess the most basic understanding of the R/C hobby, I would have to question if they have chosen the right hobby.
....
Tempora mutantur, nos et mutamur in illis, of course. When I started with R/C you had to start by knowing what a carrier wave was, and how to modulate it, because you were making your own equipment. Anyone who didn't know that was not going to get very far.
Nowadays I suspect that some of the world's best R/C pilots/builders may not know this - it is no longer critical knowledge. How many drivers know anything about 'advancing the spark'? That was a pretty central driving requirement up to 1950, and nowadays it is a completely automatic function of the engine management software, only of interest to 'chippers'...
In the same way I suspect that frequency allocation will become an arcane topic only of interest to the historians, and no longer a basic item of knowledge. Park flyers on 2.4Ghz no longer need to know about it...
One area where a new entrant to R/C is often not well supported is in the 'etiquette' of the hobby. I don't read many beginners guides, but have the impression that they are often strong on technology, and weak on things like checking for interference, the order of turning equipment on, local rules on what can be sailed, insurance issues and so on...
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And after attending a model exhibition, as a first model, everyone wants to build a Spitfire/Bismark withfull working weaponry/Formula 1 car with all the electronic gizmos------
Regards Ian.
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This question used to appear in the R/C aircraft world also. My recommendation was always to get the best radio you can afford at the time. If you get more functions now than you currently need thats OK because you WILL use them in the end on perhaps your next model.
My recommendation would be to get something on 2.4Ghz and programable (typicaly has an LCD Screen, ie DX6i) so that installation in your model is just that bit essayer to setup and gives more flexability...
Mark
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At the risk of sounding like a total cynic, any man/woman/child who doesn't even possess the most basic understanding of the R/C hobby, I would have to question if they have chosen the right hobby. Experience has shown that, no matter how kind you are, or no matter how much time you invest on introducing newcomers to the scene and carefully explaining all the numerous idiosyncrasies, etc, they invariably end up throwing in the towel at the first hurdle. And before you know it, they're gone in a flash - without even as much as hint of thanks.
Either that or you find that most newcomers aren't too fussed either way about etiquette and are all too ready to just bung any old Tx/Rx in their models, regardless of frequencies, and end up creating havoc for just about everyone else.
In this case, I'm prepared to be corrected (hopefully).
Time shall tell.
Tut tut Dude, we've all got to start somewhere %)
Confucius him say " A closed mouth gathers no foot."
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"To pmx !;- you will be."
I will be what? Proven wrong?
Good! I want you to prove me wrong. But no need to sound so sarcastic about it.
As DG has so rightly pointed out, most everything is so dumbed-down nowadays that you don't need to know anything at all about frequency-modulated carriers, or amplititude-modulated carriers, or indeed anything about crystals in order to create mayhem among fellow enthusiast.
It's just that your initial posting is screaming out everything novice. Sure, ask questions and learn by all means, but don't run away with the idea that getting into R/C modelling (or ANY hobby, come to that) is a walkover. Maybe it's the way you asked your initial question, because it doesn't half smack of flippancy. Don't do that to yourself, else you're on to loser from the word go. Your "What radio control set do i need" question would imply that you haven't even bothered to buy any magazines or books on the subject -- instead, you come crashing in almost with an air of expectancy, almost like it's your God-given right that fellow members should somehow be obligated to tell you everything.
Try learning something off your own back first - prove to others that you're in it for the right reasons - and not just another Jonny-come-lately. You will be surpised how many will fall over themselves to proffer you all the help you need as soon as they see that you're actually keen.
Lighten up and just try to see it as a bit of sage advice.
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Tut tut Dude, we've all got to start somewhere %)
Right on.
But less of the "tut, tut", if you don't mind. Open your eyes, read it again - and see it for what it actually is. Why do some folk automatically jump to the wrong conclusion all the bleeding time? For you yourself would probably be one of the fisrt to berate any idiot that should happen upon your sailing pond and causing interference to your radio gear.
I'll forgive your little swipe at me on the morrow - when it's the Sabbath.
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Very sound comments PMK, trying to be helpful, look whats happened to Bunkerbarges efforts. Gerra book an have a read O0 %)
Regards Ian.
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Hi Octo,
I have just got back into boat modelling after a long break. I did not want to spend a lot of money so i went for the "Planet 5" 2.4 system. (i bought mine from Howes) but they are widely available.
There are 4 stick channels and one on/off switch chanel. The reciever is small and light and the "bonding" process was simple. This process bonds the transmitter to the reciever so that even if all the other people on the pond are on 2.4 then there should be no interferance.
The switch works by powering one of the chanels on the reciever so you can use it for lights etc.
I have used a velcro patch on my reciever so that i can move it between models, i will buy another in due course.
The only downside so far is that the "bend/knuckle" joint on the transmitter aerial is not very strong and i have had to repair mine but it was no real bother.
Hope this helps a bit.
Lee
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I think we're in danger here of losing sight of the fact that people don't generally read any more, because they've grown up in the internet generation. It is galling to me, but I have heard so many youngsters in particular say to me that if it ain't on t'net, they won't know it.
Consequently forums have become an oracle that they were not, perhaps, originally intended to be.
They are seen as the repository of all instant knowledge by beginners of a certain age. It is also more difficult to find any books of interest or help in the Public Library system, so...back the good old Net while Mum cooks tea.
I think those of us with any knowledge on certain topics have to face up to the fact that more and more, we will be expected to expound on any aspect of our hobbies at which we have a working proficiency.
I really don't think we can hope to win new blood into our hobby if we say things like PMK, quite so bluntly, even if he does have a point...up to a point.
That is as much a fact of the times as me being told to use Chinese 2.4 when I really want my old stuff in my 47 year old Crash Tender, (even if brushless motors fascinate me!)
Regards,
Vintagent
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I read quite a few publications on chosen subjects, but the forum is very usefull as well. I find it especially usefull to avoid expensive pitfalls. Many publications give detailed information on different subjects but not necessarily first hand experience. If after reading up on say 2.4 systems you decide to buy one, do you spend £200 or £45. This is where the forum comes into it's own.
Octo, i would say, look at a few of the mags now that you have an idea. Choose a system you like the look of and then ask for people experiences with that system.
Many people here like to give their knowledge as part of being in the forum environment.
I'm 47 and i use the net while my girlfriend makes the dinner (unless i'm summond to help) :-)
Lee
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Three or four years ago, right here on this very forum, was a somewhat heated debate about your so-called "new blood". The argument being divided between those wanting to encourage younger members, but bemoaning the fact that most kids these days are more into computers and suchlike, while on the other end, some members countering that there really should be no need to fret about it on account that, if any kid is indeed interested in the hobby, then it follows that he or she will find their own way in their own time anyhow.
I mean, YOU did, right?
Approximately six months later, those who were arguing on the "new blood" fence, were suddenly changing their tune when it turned out that the new blood were causing all sorts of grief at their ponds.
I suppose you could say it was funny, but it didn't half reek of hypocrisy.
So it seems nothing has changed in that particular area, then.
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Back to the topic in question. :-)
I would advise clicking on some of the traders at the top of the forum board and have a look at what you can afford.
A simple 4 channel set-up is more then enough to control a simple model with each channel working different things for example:
Speed controller for motor, rudder servo, sound and lights. now there is a endless list of things you can control with each channel but then main 2 are servo control and speed control.
Having a look at different traders on the forum will give you a idea of whats out there and what you desire from a radio set.
Jay
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Octo your just one o them young uns {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Yes, there are those of a younger persuasion that expect instant gratification.
Most of us older farts did it the old fashioned way, bought what we were told to buy in the model shop, learnt that was a mistake and
did a bit more reading up before purchasing anything more. We all had (and still do) piles & piles of magazines and books that we poured over, gleaning techniques, ideas and mainly how to make things ourselves ... and I'm only talking 20 years ago.
But we can't turn back time.... so lets collate our wisdom and generate the Mayhem beginners guide to radio controlled model boating.
What your pearls of wisdom?
I'll start:
1. What type of boat do you like want to build, play with, buy?
2. What's you budget in time and Money?
3. Go and speak to your local model boat club if there is one nearby or ask on here.
( BTW - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Technical.htm )
(( I'll split this tops as and when required. ))
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To go back to Octos original question, if you want to get your feet "wet", a two channel 27moggy Am or 40 moggy FM system will both work for simple requirements. These units can be found on fleebay quite cheaply and will give you the satisfaction to go and have a play virtually whenever you want.
If at some future point in time you want to go down the multi-function route for all singing and dancing whatever, then is the time to decide whether you want to spend vast amounts of cash to persue the hobby.
Although I've a multi-function FM system and a multi AM system, I STILL get a buzz out of a Sanwa Mini-Two.
Regards Ian.
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I would like to clear up a few points that my simple question has brought to the forefront.
Firstly I stated I was a novice to radio controlled systems, this does not mean however that I not able to or willing to take this further. I have read several books on the subject but found the literature left me wanting more. I then posted my questions on the forum as I believed that like minded individuals would be a greater source of knowledge. I was at no time being sarcastic but did feel that the comments from certain parties were confrontational to say the least.
In my opinion anyone wishing to try a new hobby should be allowed to do so without fear of prejudice from other more experienced individuals.
I leave youwith a final quote "Tell me and I will forget, show me and I may remember< involve me and I will understand".
Finally to all the bloggers who offered help and encouragement, many thanks.
Tony
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You're very welcome.
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An intelligent, articulate and steadying response, Octo.
I do hope you will continue with the hobby and have not been put off by those comments to which you refer.
I know little of R/C or electrics (a minefield it seems to me), but modelmaking per se is my forte and I am no believer in the "arts and mysteries" hogwash of time served this or that, so ask away, by PM if necessary andIi will do my best to answer you. I, at least am prepared to put my pen where my mouth is.
Regards,
Vintagent
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Refering to my last post. Many people have refered to youth, may i point you to Octo's profile, especially Age {-), i hope you take no offence Octo.
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Octo's response was certainly that of, typically, an older gent. Which goes to show how misinterpretation of the mighty written word can be a danger for all of us.
BTW, is it too simplistic to ask genuinely if anyone has a drawing of a displacement lubricator suitable for a V twin double acting oscillator of 5/8" stroke and 1/2" bore? And where best to place it (no, Missus, behave!)
Thankyou. As ever, I know the principle, but not the detail.
Regards,
Vintagent
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to vintagent ; none taken young man. yours tony.
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Hoho, I ain't heard that since I helped an old lady across the road..."Let go of me, young man", she said, "I'm on my side already!!"
I always get it wrong :((
Vintagent
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"To pmx !;- you will be."
As DG has so rightly pointed out, most everything is so dumbed-down nowadays that you don't need to know anything at all about frequency-modulated carriers, or amplititude-modulated carriers, or indeed anything about crystals in order to create mayhem among fellow enthusiast....
Not too sure that I said everything was dumbed down nowadays. What I tried to say was that different times require different types of knowledge. It was very appropriate to worry about a circuit going off-tune then, not so much now. I suspect that with 2.4Ghz we are leaving the era of worrying about frequencies and frame-rates altogether...
Clarke's first law applies here, as everywhere.
In the meantime, I hope Octo is picking up some useful info. If he thinks this board is prickly, I hope he never has to ask a simple question on a Linux forum! At least he has learned that the answer to the question "What R/C set do I need?" is "What do you want to do?"....
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You're obviously a good man, DG. A thinker.
I'm finding myself nodding my head in agreement with what you're saying (the Linux thing certainly strikes a chord). You've a bit like FLJ: got a nifty way of way of saying things but w/o the usual alienation.
Nice one.
Mr Octo, are you ear-wigging?
Let's start again, can we?
I'm usually always respectful of my elders. Had no idea you were 68yrs (I thought you were some spotty teenager). On reflection, maybe I was a tad harsh. Would you accept my apology for being a bit of a twot?
You're still here, so that's a good thing. Maybe after this little fiasco you'll now be ready for anything.
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to PMK, i do accept your apology and it has certainly opened my eyes to what can be said on forums.
But the bottom line is you all know more than i do about the subject of R/C systems. thats why i joined
this excellent forum, My forte is building so please under stand my naievete as ive said elsewhere all comments
are welcome as long as they are constructional . thanks to every one. yours tony. :-))
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Tony,
Unfortunately it is only after a little while that you get to know a subject just enough to be able to ask the right questions to get the answer(s) you are looking for.
We could rewind and start again with all the details you have of your boat and what you want it to do?
Bob
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So, Tony, what do you build?
I find all the technology interesting, but confusing around electrics especially as I have always been a static modeller only recently come again to R/C from a 34 year break!
Regards,
Vintagent
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right shipmates here we go: i plan to build a 12th scale fishing boat based on a "COBLE" , i have a orion mouldings
hull , the deck and wheel house are being scratchbuilt from some thing way back in my minds eye,or as i would like
my fishing boat to look like ,if i had a full scale one that is. yours tony.
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Ah, the queen of scales. I would have thought, that unless you want lights, etc. a two function set would do, so you could get away with real cheapo Acoms, etc.
Depends what you MIGHT want to do next. Perhaps a four function set is always a good idea just in case.
In my experience so far of coming back to R/C, Tony, it's all the complicated availabilities or otherwise of motors, batteries and ESCs that will have your head spinning. Mine is, constantly!
Anybody else's two-pennorth??
Regards,
Vintagent
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If you are only looking to use a motor and rudder, the most basic 2 channel radio set will be fine.
Why there is such a difference of opinion is about the pricing and type of radio sets.
2.4 GHz has recently been introduced and there are 2 distinct types.
But as an indication of prices!!!
Second hand 27 or 40 Mhz 2 channel about £10-00.
Second hand 6 channel set about £50-80.
New 4 - 6 Channel 40 Mhz about £150
2.4 Gig from 2 suppliers a 4 channel set brand new £30-50.
A recognised "quality" manufacturer for 6 channel 2.4 Gig set £150- 220
So as you can see there is such a wide variation now so extremely difficult to say what is the "best" for you.
Bob
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Flavour of the month at our club appears to be PLANET 5 2.4GHz Combo Set 5 Channel
A five channel Tx and a six channel Rx for £45.95
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/planet-5-rc-systems.html
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Too expensive for me.
I use the Giant Cod one at £27 including a receiver.
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/gianitcod-24ghz-4channel-mode2-transmitter-p-403779.html
I have 2 transmitters and 5 receivers so far!!!!
Bob
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OH! "xxxxx", I was leaning to wards the Planet 5, when Shipmate60
put his tupenth worth in with the Giantcod . this is what we want, YIppee. yours Tony
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OH! "xxxxx", I was leaning to wards the Planet 5, when Shipmate60
put his tupenth worth in with the Giantcod . this is what we want, YIppee. yours Tony
I have a couple of Giant Cod sets. They work fine, and I'm very happy with them, but you should be aware of a few things...
GC are a small shipper - near enough one man. He goes across to China, imports kit and sells it here. So you get Chinese prices with UK availability. It's worth browsing his site for prices...!
He cuts his prices to the bone, so you will usually get a very good deal. The down side is that he can't offer all-encompassing guarantees, change-it-if-you-don't-like-it, and the other sorts of service that the higher priced shops do. He deals fair - I have had no problem with him changing things which were not what I asked for - but he does want to make you aware up-front that he is not in the business of providing lots of unpaid help. He expects to sell things at very good prices to people who know what they're buying...
The cheap T4U is interesting - I've never seen an R/C at that low a price! As I said, I have two and they work great. The trim is not great, however - unimpressive aluminium with holes cut in it so you can poke the servo reverser switches on the main board...
The radio actually has a mode switch and a mixer switch as extras - not advertised, but useful additions. The sticks on my sets have a high-quality feel - but the last 10 degrees of stick throw does not work the servo. See the forum for instructions on how to add a 1k resistor and get the full throw out of it.
The forum also contains instructions on how to add an extra channel - just add a switch! In fact the GC forums provide all the help that the supplier would normally...
So, the T4U is a really cheap radio control, built down to an incredibly low price. It works well, but you may have niggles about trim and servo throw. This can be overcome if you are happy to get your hands dirty and solder a resistor in. If appearance is very important and you don't want to fiddle with a soldering iron then you might be happier with a Planet....
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Thanks for that DG, its like the old expression "ya pays ya money" thanks again, Tony
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DG,
So far the only mod required is to file a neutral on the ratchet.
Yes I have read the GC forum, just not encountered the problem.
But that is why I have 2 x transmitters (Just in case)
I also have Futaba 40 meg sets as well.
But for basics I prefer the Giant Cod set.
Bob
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On the Planet you dont have to file anything as you can buy a conversion for the left stick that changes it to spring loaded self centering the same as the right one.
This costs the princely sum of £1.73 :-))
I actually have a Giant Cod system but comparing it to the Planet If I was buying one now I would get the Planet although it is slightly more expensive.
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DG,
So far the only mod required is to file a neutral on the ratchet.
Yes I have read the GC forum, just not encountered the problem.
But that is why I have 2 x transmitters (Just in case)
I also have Futaba 40 meg sets as well.
But for basics I prefer the Giant Cod set.
Bob
Interesting. When did you get yours? I picked up my two around September last year, and they both needed a 1k resistor to get the full servo throw. Perhaps they have done that in the factory now. Does yours have the full throw on the servos?
I don't want to knock the sets - far from it. I bought one, and was so impressed that I bought another, and some spare receivers. I just thought that octo ought to hear all sides, and without doubt the Planet has better trim. Octo can decide if he thinks better trim is worth paying for...
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I got mine earlier this year and seem to have full throw either way on both.
Bob
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On the Planet you dont have to file anything as you can buy a conversion for the left stick that changes it to spring loaded self centering the same as the right one.
This costs the princely sum of £1.73 :-))
I actually have a Giant Cod system but comparing it to the Planet If I was buying one now I would get the Planet although it is slightly more expensive.
Yup - I have put a plan for a GC self-centering conversion on the GC forum - it's just a bit of plastic. But that's a good example from DickyD - Planet kit will come from a dealer with spares and back-up - GC is rock-bottom prices. Up to octo to decide...
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Dicky,
Surprisingly you miss the point as I did it on your transmitter too.
I prefer the ratchet on the left hand (throttle) stick as I can cruise around all day.
The conversion is to ensure that neutral point is the same every time.
Bob
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Dicky,
Surprisingly you miss the point as I did it on your transmitter too.
I prefer the ratchet on the left hand (throttle) stick as I can cruise around all day.
The conversion is to ensure that neutral point is the same every time.
Bob
I didnt miss the point at all Bob, it does just what you said. Thanks.
I just prefer a self centering one with no ratchet so when I take my finger of it my boat stops and doesnt go on its own sweet way.
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Talking about all these Radio control sets, Frequencies and channels, and the all singing and dancing 2.4Ghz.
you have all not mentioned that there is still one other possible solution; "Bluetooth"
and yes it does work for ships / boats, but its no good for fast moving ships / boats.
in the following link shows a few modified installations
http://www.geier-modellbau.de/index/galerie.html
the cost is about 500 pounds, but if your looking for something completely new, and you need loads of channels to control things this is the bee's and EEE's
a small translation from the website
a total of 152 Servo's can be controlled, plus lights and other things
a total of 78 models can be saved in the memory
failsafe function, data feed back from the model (the voltage of the rx battery)
plus a lot of other things.
just thought you might all be interesed in something like this..
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"Bluetooth"
I can't keep up. At 47 i was just trying to avoid "slightly yellow"
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I'm the big 50 next year.... one has to go with the times.. %%
i seen this set up being shown how it works, at the Dortmund Model exhibition this year, but looking at that website, this guy has been working on this type of Control system since 2008
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How many hands does this guy have to operate the model, and how the heck does he remember what all of those functions are for??
I think we may have strayed a little bit further than Octo needed :o
Octo - My advice, for what it's worth, would be as follows:
Avoid 2 channel > poor VFM, and you'll soon get fed up with its limitations.
While the Chinese sets are superficially good value, I have technical issues with all of them - chiefly around poor QC and the "floating neutral" values (and the restricted throw on the throttle channel).
I would recommend buying a Futaba, JR, Hitec, Robbe F-series or Spektrum DX6. All are "name" brands with established reputations and UK service agents. Save the budget sets until you know more about the whole scene.
BTW how big is the prop recommended for your coble? If it's the 36" long hull then perhaps a Speed 720 Torque motor on 12v with a 40mm 3- or 4-blade prop would be the way to go. For a nice, slow trundler on a sheltered pond then a 555 motor and a 35mm prop would probably do (cheaper!). PM me for further info if you wish.
FLJ
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to fmj; thanks for the input, my motor is a Graupner speed 600 at 8.4v, my prop is 3 blade 30mm,
im might have put the cart before the horse, but i needed them for size etc. tony. O0
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I have sent you a PM.
FLJ
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Octo - My advice, for what it's worth, would be as follows:
Avoid 2 channel > poor VFM, and you'll soon get fed up with its limitations.
While the Chinese sets are superficially good value, I have technical issues with all of them - chiefly around poor QC and the "floating neutral" values (and the restricted throw on the throttle channel).
I would recommend buying a Futaba, JR, Hitec, Robbe F-series or Spektrum DX6. All are "name" brands with established reputations and UK service agents. Save the budget sets until you know more about the whole scene.
FLJ
I agree with all your points, but the lead me to the opposite conclusion!
Yup, 2-channel is limiting. Still lets you control, though....
Yup, Cheap GC sets suffer (or have suffered) from all the problems you cite. Particularly the poor quality control. That's why you pay a bit more for the Planet set, which is better in this regard
But I would tend to start any hobby with a lowish range bit of kit, so that I could learn the ropes. I'm not going to start to learn golf with a top-rate set of Calloways - I'm going to get a decentish mid to low range set, and probably not many clubs at that. And if I like the game, and start to appreciate a bit better balance in my clubs, that's when I'll go for a more expensive set. When I know a bit more about things from personal experience, and can appreciate more sophistication....
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I agree with all your points, but the lead me to the opposite conclusion!
Fell free, sir - that's what makes life interesting! My take - based on personal experience and that of numerous customers - is that if you can eliminate as many potential problems as you can from the outset then you're more likely to have a satisfactory outcome and less likely to chuck the towel in and go basket-weaving instead.
FLJ
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hi shipmates; ive solved the problem, ive put all the suggestions, (greatly received i may add)
iin my M&S best fedora and drew one out, and the winner is the Planet 5 :D
regards tony.
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To throw another spanner in the works, how about a second hand 40 Mhz set from one of the major players. Plenty on sale on ebay and elsewhere as people move over to 2.4Ghz. And they will be cheaper and better quality than new GiantCod/Planet gear. And when the time comes, if you can solder 3 wires you can 'upgrade' to 2.4Ghz for £25 including an 8 Ch RX as Andy showed in another thread.
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... and less likely to chuck the towel in and go basket-weaving instead.
FLJ
Don't talk to me about basket weaving......not after last weekend...... :-X : :embarrassed:
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Don't talk to me about basket weaving......not after last weekend...... :-X : :embarrassed:
Ah! Targeted by a Rafia hit-squad, eh? :o
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Ah! Targeted by a Rafia hit-squad, eh? :o
You could call them the Rafia Mafia...making me a basket I couldn't refuse... <*< <*<
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ok, isnt anybody going to ask what DG an FML are on about? :o
tony
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Clue - it's called nonsense, and it appeals to certain individuals at certain times. Indulge us if you will ;)
"FML"?? Full Metal Leathers perhaps?
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Sorry about that" full metal jacket," I put it down to my mind working faster
than my fingers, some call it senility, hey ho. still yours tony
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Just call him Dave,Octo lot easier,than fullmetalleathers in a jacket {-)
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Well hello there one and all
about radios, can I add my 'twopenneth worth' about choice of....
Regarding the 2.4 - radio sets - I believe its the Spectrum make. Also, I think it was the 'Giant Cod' radio - there may be a slight problem with both of these - of de-binding.
We had 2 new members in our model boating club last Sunday and they are hardened fly-boys - trying a bit of scale/yacht sailing.
they were telling me the story of several very expensive models flying off into the distance, never to be seen again - and one crashing to earth due to the above-mentioned problem.
I can appreciate that, for us slow going scale boys, this wouldnt be much of a problem - unless we are running out at sea! For the 'gas-heads' though with the high-powered speed boats flying around the lakes, I can see it being a big problem to them!
Anyone else heard of this de-binding problem associated with the 2.4 sets?
For the time being - I am going to stick to the well-proven 40 mghz - even though I do have to purchase a new receiver after I drowned one along with the electric speed controller - yes FLJ I turned the Shamrock right over in the lake! Drowned all of the electrics.
aye
john e
bluebird
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yes FLJ I turned the Shamrock right over in the lake! Drowned all of the electrics.
Hooligan >>:-(
FLJ
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You'll be needing some new ones, then?? £ 8)
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Hooligan >>:-(
FLJ
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You'll be needing some new ones, then?? £ 8)
aye a big boy did it and ran away but you kknow ACTION stuff - dry it out proper like and it works %% %% %% but it was the receiver that got it <:( <:( <:(
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Spit and bother................but I had to ask (FLJ's Flattened Finger Fund is running low, you know).
M. Neuf-doigts
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Regarding the 2.4 - radio sets - I believe its the Spectrum make. Also, I think it was the 'Giant Cod' radio - there may be a slight problem with both of these - of de-binding.
they were telling me the story of several very expensive models flying off into the distance, never to be seen again - and one crashing to earth due to the above-mentioned problem.
Anyone else heard of this de-binding problem associated with the 2.4 sets?
aye
john e
bluebird
Some of the 2.4 sets lose contact after about 100 meters, many do not realise this, especially the fly boys. I dont think it was de-binding but exceeding the range that was the problem. The planet 5 is good for 100 meters but that is the recomended distance although some have experienced greater distances. I never really send my boat out that far so it's not a problem for me.
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Planet would appear to disagree.
From their web site.
The Planet T5™ transmitter and receiver have been designed for precision helicopter and aircraft flying and feature Advanced 2.4GHz control. 2.4GHz is a worldwide frequency that has many applications and uses. This technology is very suited to enhance safe flying through the model and hobby industry. 2.4Ghz technology creates the advantage for a ‘bound’ relationship between the Transmitter and Receiver. The setting up of this relationship is known as ‘binding’. In a ‘bound’ transmitter/receiver relationship the receiver is exclusively bound to your transmitter and can only respond to signals received from your transmitter. It will not respond or receive signals from any other device or transmitter transmitting on the 2.4GHz frequency band. Binding is done at the factory. Once a transmitter is bound to it’s receiver, re-binding of transmitter and receiver is not normally required.
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Planet would appear to disagree.
http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=29064
"Quote" Please note instructions state the range is only 150 metres - So this is only suitable for small helicopters and park fly aircraft.
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hi all
my personal feeling is 2.4 hasnt got much going for it really - the only thing I can see that is really beneficial is that it will solve the problem of Lakeside frequency arguments. Restricted range/de-binding/not being able to use it in submarines/having to have the aerial sets at certain angles on the receiver/its too 'iffy' for me personally - too new to the game. If it were me just setting out wanting the radio gear I myself would sick to the tried and tested 40 mghz sets - and also the 27s less finicky
aye
john e
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I have technical issues with all of them
O, yeah - there was the range thing as well! :embarrassed:
Like Bloobs, I still prefer the 'old' stuff on 40FM - if you can see it then you can control it. YOGWYPF (Mongolian for 'caveat emptor'?)
FLJ
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I use the Jeti 2.4ghz system which i believe is faultless, i dont usually place the receiver aerial at right angle and have never experienced a problem, we do have a problem with 40mhz down at the lake, there seems to be a "blind spot" halfway out where it catches a few boats out for some reason?
Russ
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Dont bother setting ariels at angles,nor range problems,if it was set at 150 mtrs you cant see the thing anyway or how many ponds we sail at are that big.
I put rx in at any angle not lost signal yet,and thats in 6 boats,dont dismiss 2.4 ghz,it cant work for subs,but they are a few amongst us
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Dont bother setting ariels at angles,nor range problems,if it was set at 150 mtrs you cant see the thing anyway or how many ponds we sail at are that big.
I put rx in at any angle not lost signal yet,and thats in 6 boats,dont dismiss 2.4 ghz,it cant work for subs,but they are a few amongst us
I did wonder about angles, especially in aircraft. Flying straight and level to keep the ariels at the correct angle may be a tad boring.
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so you are having a nice sail at a lake no one about when a few locals turn up and your boat starts bouncing of the bank and you look around and someone is playing with there boat you ask what freq they are on and they tell you the same as you are on , so you ask why did you not check and the answer is because it is my club freq I always use it . or you have the peg at a club and your boat starts looping the loop and someone is at a table behind you twidling with a TX and you ask what freq he is on as he has no peg and the answer is its OK the ant is down or I am only setting up my speed controller..or the classic I have reversed my xtals so its ok, because so and so does it all the time
or I thought I would be ok sailing on the other side of the lake, over the years I have heard them all.
2.4 is the only way to go no pegs no silly fools turning on , no waiting for someone to flatten his ten amp battery before you get the peg and if your boat hits the bank its your fault.
Peter
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So you have that many using your lake, HS, do you? Whenever I've tried to find any model boaters in the past round here, I'd need to set my alarm clock and consult the sat nav so that I could get to the pond at exactly the right time to find maybe three insular chums with any boats and exactly 1 hour and 43 minutes later, without a word they all pack up and toddle off for their early lunch.
It's why I set up wherever I like on any of the many local bodies of water. I can't believe your place is so popular that you get any real hassle from people just turning up! We'd be happy to see any!
Regards,
Vintagent
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Hi all
Just to try and clarify the point I was making in my last post
We have a new member to this hobby of model boating with shall we say a limited knowledge of the hobby, he will now doubt encounter some problems along the way in his modelling and will be encouraged to seek answers from this forum, they may not have the use of a modelling club at hand to help so is it wise to point them to new technology that is still in its infancy and that still one or two bugs to put right , is it not safer to point them at old tried and tested ways even if they have sum draw backs
I am not condemning the new technology (2.4) it is the way we will all go in the end but when it requires 3 pages of possible faults and remedies to help someone on this forum and it turns out to be a naff TX supply battery in the end, and that was using the old 40 mghz what chants have they got with the added possibility of problems with the new stuff (2.4) we will require a hole forum to get the problems sorted never mind 3 pages ???
Know doubt as they gain more experience in the hobby the problems will become less and easier to fix by themselves and confidence in themselves will grow thus making it easier for them to take on the new and sometimes old technology at ease and with some understanding
aye
john e
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Ned Ludd rules OK :D
Peter
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2.4Ghz technology is at least 5 years old. Positively ancient by modern standards. :D Its main advantage is no frequency clashes. Also it can be cheaper than 27 or 40 sets.
As for troubleshooting I think once you have ruled out duff batteries, bad connections and broken ESCs or servos the average RC user (ie me) would be stumped whether it was 27, 40 or 2.4. {:-{
I say go for 2.4 it leaves more 40 frequencies free for me :-))
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Sorry, but I cant help thinking that some of the posts are somewhat negative to the originators original question, and I would like to point out that only a few weeks ago I witness not a spotty teenager turning on his treansmitter with a total disregard for others, but an elderly "should have known better" experienced modeller, which resulted in a real nice perkassa going full tilt in reverse and sinking!
Only too often I hear the cries from the experienced of "its my frequency, or its my peg!", and If Tony does not want to read a book, but learns from the internet, so what, gentlemen, its called progress, do some of you still get the test card on your tellys :}
New technology is infiltrating this hobby of model boats, and we must welcome it, either components, or the souce of information.
My advice, get yourself to your local model boat club, have a look at what people are doing, most model boat club members will be delighted to help and advise, decide what you want, and what you want to spend, and ask as many questions on this forum as you want, no matter how silly they may be. I have done the same, and learned a lot, from people who understand what you are going through, there are some very skilled and experienced people here who will be more than happy to help, long live 2.4, brushless motors, and the 21st century :}
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I say go for 2.4 it leaves more 40 frequencies free for me :-))
Amen to that. Although I have both in the same TX- belt and braces! :-))
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Bluebird, yes spektrum about 18 months ago had a recall on (I think) DX6 transmitters, they replaced ALL that fell within a certain model range, irrespective of where they where bought, I believe its still on their website?, thats pretty good, I am sure that they are not the only manufacturer that suffered this, anyone driving a Toyota :D
I use a DX6i for helicopters, and would love to use it for my boats, but the receivers are so expensive, and the throttle is not self centring, so I use the Turborix 2.4 cheap as chips system on 3 boats, with certainly no problems. You have to also consider what batteries are in the transmitter? If using rechageable, they are 1.2v instead of 1.5v aa batteries, so you are immediatly down on tx power, and most 2.4 tx's take less batteries than old 40 or 27meg sets, the reduced voltage will affect the range, so get the 1.5v cells back in, and the range will increase.
Vintagent, I was at Hoylake at 9.30am Sunday, there where already several people there, and Over at Birkenhead, at 10.00am the car park had 8 cars with boaters there, you nare very lucky if you dont get people at your local lake, or very lonely ;D
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...which resulted in a real nice perkassa going full tilt in reverse and sinking!
I wuz there and I dun saw it 'appen..... .....and heard the excuses afterwards.....
It certainly pushed the limits of the club's motto "The friendly club" (!)
Moving on....
2.4ghz has been a 'good thing' in my experience for (at least) two reasons.
1. It's own intrinsic values.
2. It's adoption by others frees up significant areas of the spectrum for those who either can not, or do not want to give up 40mhz.
Both systems demand an understanding and duty of care from their users to get the best and safest use from those respective systems.
-Rob
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hi all
it proves a point - some people only read half posts and understand even less - point being I am not against 2.4 - it is there to be used. What I am against are people who offer advice who do not fully understand the product - especially to a newcomer in the modelling field. If the newcomer has a problem with 2.4 how many of us on this forum can put hand on heart and say they have a thorough understanding of 2.4 technology. Did one know that there are some modelling materials that we use regularly that shield 2.4 signals? preventing it from working - e.g. Kevlar - and certain other fibre glass materials interfere with 2.4 . If one is wondering YES I am learning and also having to do a conversion for a friend of mine on a Futaba 35 mghz over to 2.4 mghz and I am still learning and feeling my way around this new technology.
I STILL FEEL THE ONLY FULL ADVANTAGE OF 2.4 IS IT WILL SORT OUT THE LAKESIDE ARGUMENTS - OVER FREQUENCIES :-))
http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/spreadspectrum01.shtml
Hey ho...
aye
johne
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Whilst browsing in WS Smiths, I spotted that RCM&E were giving a Free Planet 5 Radio to new Subscribers -£39.95 for 12 months by direct debit.
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Red181,
Oh I'm never lonely, mate. I got me models and a 2 year old grandson who follows Ganggak everywhere!
Those clubs Oop Norf always seem well attended. I remember all the model yacht racing reports from Fleetwood and such places.
No radio, but they were fascinating. A Knack and a long pole...I find that strangely appealing, Octo!
Regards,
Vintagent
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HI shipmates; Little did I think that when I posed my question ,96 posts ago . That it would
get the response it has . I find it wonderful, that so many people can have such diverse opinions.
As Ive said previously Ive purchased a Planet T5 ,So i hope to base everything around this unit.
I will keep everyone informed of my progress. Got to go, Im fitting a propshaft to my hull,( sounds painful).
yours Tony.
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Hi Vintagent, made me laugh! that :}, yes I was out last night with my youngest at Hoylake, he played on the beach with a friend using RC trucks (40 and 27) and I was on the lake (on my own :embarrassed:) on........ yes you guessed 2.4!! I actually like being on my own ,
I can thrash my Huntsman around without disturbing others, I tried some different battery packs and it was ballistic :-))
Nobody can see how useless my driving skills are!
and as I am on the limit of all the electronics, an explosion is imminent, so nobody will see it! %%
My missus didn't know, she thought I was playing with the kids, so I got an unofficial "pass out"
Bluebird, could not agree more with your comment regarding advice being given out by people who are unqualified to do so, how often do we see "my advice is bla bla, but Ive never actually done it myself", so the newbie goes off, spends a packet, and it all goes wrong. For the record, yes I know about 2.4 (flying helis for the last 10 years), yes to kevlar and carbon fibre etc, thats why most helis have 2 receivers. such as spectrum, so one does not lose the signal depending on frame material, and orientation of the heli, last thing you want is to lose the signal when its upside down!, with a rotor tip speed that could be in excess of 200mph. Spektrum also advise in the manual, range test before using equipment, and details how to do this, this should also apply to boats and cars.
With regard to the conversion you are doing, A friend of mine did one recently for a fixed wing flyer, the club he was a member of refused the use of the converted tx as the CE certification became invalid, and he was no longer insured by the governing body of BMFA, and insurance is generally mandatory proof of which needs to be produced prior to flying with virtually all clubs, you might want to warn your friend to check this out if he is a club member to save any embarrassment :-))
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I just had a thought about my mates problem, and the insurance/CE thing, he used a commercially available "home build" RF module, not one that was already pre assembled, I would assume that the pre build module carries its own seperate CE approval?
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I just had a thought about my mates problem, and the insurance/CE thing, he used a commercially available "home build" RF module, not one that was already pre assembled, I would assume that the pre build module carries its own seperate CE approval?
A plug-in, tamper-proof module with CE approval should be OK provided that the particular approval is for the intended use and no modifications that would affect the approval have happened. A sticker that claims approval might just as easily have an approval number for the colour fastness of the case. With some (possibly oriental) manufacturers, something like this might actually happen. We, as a rule, cannot read their writing. They, quite often, regard the symbols on the stickers as a pattern.
This rapidly turns into a minefield. In the old days of conventional wireless, you more or less had to be a sparky engineer or similar to build it or get it working or keep it working. Nowadays, its all much more like Lego. No bad thing, but we are all now using sealed magic boxes and very few know what is going on inside.
The insurance aspect hinges on the idea that there is someone traceable to blame and sue should things go pear shaped - anything not backed by someone qualified to have a good set of excuses for use in court is therefore frowned upon.
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hi all
Did one know that there are some modelling materials that we use regularly that shield 2.4 signals? preventing it from working - e.g. Kevlar - and certain other fibre glass materials interfere with 2.4 .
Wrong >>:-(
I think you will find its Carbon Fiber
I would NEVER trust my Models and that includes Turbine powered jets to anything else but 2.4Ghz. Been on 2.4 for years since the DX6
Remamber: Not even the best radio will prevent problems with a poor installation.
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Wrong >>:-(
I think you will find its Carbon Fiber
I would NEVER trust my Models and that includes Turbine powered jets to anything else but 2.4Ghz. Been on 2.4 for years since the DX6
Remamber: Not even the best radio will prevent problems with a poor installation.
hi all
it proves a point - some people only read half posts and understand even less -
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good points malcolm, I never thought of the module having its own ce approval, and it just plugged in. I recently sold a really nice futaba field force six anniversary tx, 35megs, sorry I let it go now it would have been a nice tx on 2.4, and the receivers are cheaper than spektrum
FLJ made a really interesting point a page ago, regarding the cheap chinese 2.4 sets (Which I own!) and the problem with restricted throttle range, I am sure that my cheap hitec 40meg set had a better full throttle range than my turborix set, never put a gps on the boat with both sets to test that, I wonder why that is? Anyway, I stick by my guns and feel a lot safer on 2.4 when others are at a lake sailing, cheap chinese or not :}, sorry Octo, we have gone miles off the point here, but thanks for starting a very interesting thread :-))
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FLJ made a really interesting point a page ago, regarding the cheap chinese 2.4 sets (Which I own!) and the problem with restricted throttle range, I am sure that my cheap hitec 40meg set had a better full throttle range than my turborix set, never put a gps on the boat with both sets to test that, I wonder why that is?
FLJ may have been thinking about this issue: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2858
I think the problem has gone away now, but some early T4U sets came with the wrong value pots on the sticks, and need a 1k resistor attaching to them to bring back full servo throw....
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With regard to the conversion you are doing, A friend of mine did one recently for a fixed wing flyer, the club he was a member of refused the use of the converted tx as the CE certification became invalid, and he was no longer insured by the governing body of BMFA, and insurance is generally mandatory proof of which needs to be produced prior to flying with virtually all clubs, you might want to warn your friend to check this out if he is a club member to save any embarrassment :-))
I don't belong to any flying clubs or hold any model insurance. I fly in non-designated(but deserted) flying sites, and nothing I fly weighs more than a pound. I find it somewhat strange that rules are this tight when it's quite legal to fly free-flight aeroplanes without any form of control whatsoever.
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Usually chuck and runs are more lightly loaded and fly at a more sedate pace than the screamers. Still no consallation if you're earoled with one though. :embarrassed:
Regards Ian.
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Neither is a football (and would hurt more I wager) but do you need an insurance policy to play a quick game of five-a-side in the park these days?
I think a lot of these rules and regulations are more aimed at those flying big and heavy models, I don't and never would as I'm only too well aware of how and what can go wrong. My belief is, if you want to go big, build it large enough to get in it and fly the controls in person.
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and nothing I fly weighs more than a pound.
The weight doesn't really matter.(Not pointing at you Sub, I read the postings). Another bad habit we seem to be adopting from the States (aren't they all) is the "Park Flyer" Some of the aircraft with a conventional prop drive being flow in somewhat "Limited" airspace is bad enough, but the Ducted fan Mini-jets certainly would raise a bruise if yer clouted with one of those.
An YOU go tell the guy with the pit bull on a string in the other hand he shouldn't be flying in a "Park". -- and quite a few of these are on 2.4Gigglies.
Regards Ian.
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hi there all
I know this is 'totally off topic' now - but Circlip you should not have mentioned 'chuck 'n run' - can you remember the KeilKraft Club and the KeilKraft Carprice?? they had the timing fuse in the back of the tail which used to light and supposedly (after a certain length of time) would allow the back tail to flip up and bring the glider back down to earth - CANNY CRACK ON THE HEAD with that Caprice I recall %% %% %% I thought my head had come out of where the sun dont shine.
%% :D :D
happy days, going back some time!
aye
john e
bluebird
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Get back in the padded room. I TRY to forget "The Golden Age" of pre- X-acto cutters ("Blue Gillettes" broken off at an angle) Swan Morton???? WE had it tough. O0
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Has anyone heard of a successful claim on Model insurance. boat or plane? I am surpurised we haven't heard of people claiming ££'s for whiplash and metal trauma after being hit by their mates planes whilst strolling innocently in a park....
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Too busy sliding on wet floors and falling down climbing up ladders O0
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I remember seeing reports of accidents back in the 70s when everyone was on 27 moggies. There was at least one fatality from an out of control plane and on another occasion one went right through a car door!
Colin
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The weight doesn't really matter.
Well if I chuck a brick at you, it's going to hurt a lot more than, say a wet dishcloth, agreed?
A few years ago I remember an incident at a flying club in Hertfordshire that made the London region news. This was a very well managed club, yet a young lad whose Father had taken him to the club as a spectator got killed when, of all people, the club safety officers aeroplane veered out of control and hit the boy in the head.
This is why I steer clear of heavy aeroplanes- they can be lethal if out of control, a 200-300 gram foam aeroplane flying at 20-30 mph might smart, but you would likely live to fight another day.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_7996/is_1999_Nov_3/ai_n36010242/?tag=rel.res1
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sorry subculture, you are talking nonsense, lets hope on your deserted field,your light aircraft does not fly through the face of an innocent dog walker, or go out of control and over the fence into the windscreen of an on coming car, does not matter how light, I witnessed a contra rotating small light helicopter suffer from a receiver fault, and it hit someone on the back of the head with a 9 stich gash.
Also I have insurance on all my models, If you maim someone I hope you can live with yourself, Moderated
Even if you disagree with a comment it does not justify such a rude reply. I don't care what your own experience is it does not mean you have to be offensive.
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It think you have missed Subcultures point entirely. I think he was simply stating that a smaller lighter model will cause less damage than a heavier model.
Also I have insurance on all my models, If you maim someone I hope you can live with yourself,
So a heavier models is going to cause more damage to someone and all the insurance in the world will not stop that from happening. So one will have to live with that insurance or not.
Where insurance is not required by law (eg motor insurance), or a requirement (to fly at a club) it will depend on your assessment of risk if you want to purchase any form of insurance.
I contend that innocent dog walkers dog you mention, is a far more dangerous and unpredictable weapon (almost certainly not insured) than a sail boat (have you got model boat insurance?). How many people have personal liability insurance just in case they step on someone with their stilettos and breaks some ones toe. Or spills ones hot coffee all over a child whilst walking out of Starbucks. How many cyclists have insurance to cover the pedestrian they crash into.
Anyways, you'll probably need prove your radio gear and aircraft have been maintained and are airworthy before any successful substantial claim on insurance. Never mind evidence that your eyesight is up to scratch, your proficient to be flying such a model and took all the necessary steps to warn and protect the public (fenced off your flying area and erected signs warning of the flying hazard).
I ask again, has anyone heard of a successful substantial claim on model insurance?
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Yes mankster, I have. Purely as a bystander, I witnessed a pylon racer go full tilt into a rather sweet mahogany dnighy at Two Tree Island. It went in one side and came out tother as a missile and buried itself fully in the Thames mud.
A few weeks later I noticed the dinghy, same place , same mooring bouy, looking rather splendid and a gathering of folks around it, with the owner beaming from ear to ear because the MAP insurance had virtually paid for a new dinghy by the time the thing was repaired and revarnished, including the damage already on it from another unrelated incident! In fact the owner was actually thanking the flyer who was breathing a sigh of relief!
So, it can work.
But let's not get all soft and H&S-ey about life, please. It has to be risky or it is NOTHING.
Regards,
Vintagent
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I ask again, has anyone heard of a successfully substantial claim on model insurance?
Yes, there were some reported instances with the MPBA insurance a few years back but I don't remember the details. I think one was something to do with a racing boat going out of control and running up the bank but I could be wrong.
Also, last year at Beale Park I saw a hovercraft run over, demolish and sink a corvette although I think that one was settled 'out of court'. It is surprising both how quickly things can happen and how much damage can be done.
Colin
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The story about your friend with his heli kind of reinforces my point- the chap he hit lived to tell the tale, if it had been a 60 size chopper he would have lost half his head!
Also as I said before- what about free flight aeroplanes?
Plus, from what I have read about these policies, they only cover human error. If something goes wrong with the gear then you could find the insurance doesn't cover you.
I'm not condoning operating models without insurance, I am stating that I do and why.
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having read my prev post again, the reply was strong, which is out of character for me, and I apologise to subculture for that. I am not saying insurance is mandatory, but having a friend who was nearly blinded this year by an accident with 250 size heli, which isn't that big, it was a bit close to home, If the accident was by a 3rd party, and not by himself, then liability cover would have provided financial compensation for injury claim, and so on. I have also flown in a regular indoor flying meet, with "foamie" planes, and micro helis. Generally, flying clubs ( not just some mates getting together in a hall or on a field) provide the first 3 visits covered by the club insurance, then you have to be a member of something like BMFA (British Model Flying Association). This governing body has strict guidelines to be adhered to, which come back to the previous points of invalidating CE approval by dabbling with your TX etc. If you "guest" fly at other events, BMFA insurance cover is mandatory to provide 3rd party liability cover to others, their belongings, and the venue you are flying in. I see this as showing your other modellers respect, we think nothing of spending £30 on batteries, or something else, but squirm about spending less for 12 months insurance cover.
I have insurance on all my boats for the same reasons, its my choice, not mandatory, but if an accident happens and someone sues me, I have cover, oh and we where not talking about sailboats, but aero models.