Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: marksaab on January 15, 2007, 05:54:56 pm
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Hello All
My first thread , hopefully it will work OK!
A big hello to Orby, if I had the same grief you have I think I would consigned my build to a "Viking" funeral!!
This is my first ever build....didn't notice the ** Experienced Builder notice on the box when I bought it so its been a bit "difficult" at times!
I've not been in the modelling game for a while so I had to start from scratch with equipment and tools...first pic is my newly acquired collection, which of course cost me as much as the kit did...but hopefully there will be more kits to follow.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2621.jpg)
Next post to follow in a min!
Mark
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I didn't think to take any pics until I had planked the top deck.
I built the hull up on a thick ply base board using angle blocks set out on a metal straight edge and then clamped the keel against the blocks using metal straps screwed into the base, this kept it all nice and straight.
I started by using normal wood glue then switched to CA glue which really worked well, the planking was very easy, quite enjoyed it!
Only did some minor sanding on the ends so most of the planks are parallel, I started in the middle and worked evenly to the sides, one thing I did was to dry assemble the planks so I would end up with an even number each side, the side planking went OK, I was able to twist the planks on the underside....hadn't discovered steaming then!
To echo everyone elses comments....Billing parts fit is really appaling!!! Dont mind about lack of instructions...who reads them anyway! But it would be nice if the bits fit together, although I must say that it has not spoiled my enjoyment of the build and it makes it all the more satisfying.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2535.jpg)
The next pic shows the underside AFTER the parts had been trimmed, I found a razer saw worked really well for this,
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2536.jpg)
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Hi
More progress...well a catch up on work so far!
The sheeting of the underside was.....challenging! As Orby said, none of the parts fit, I used all the original parts supplied, didn't really occur to me to make new ones...I will next time!
I used pins and rubber bands to hold the parts in place, the most difficult was the bow...getting it positioned was hard and then as later pics will show the sheet distorted badly.
I should have done a bit more prep work on the frames to get the parts to sit properly...my inexperience showing.
So rather than trying to make it all fit together I assumed I would have to use filler and concentrated on making to the hull symmetrical.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2543.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2562.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2561.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2560.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2557.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2536.jpg)
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Disaster at the bow!
Planking was so easy I got carried away and clamped the planks at the bow too much, result was the "nose" went very wrong! I decided I could either 1) cut the whole section out and make it again using solid balsa wood or fill it, I decided to fill it.
Pics show the original shape, not too clear but you should be able to see how it pinches at the tip.
I used standard wood filler...more money at B&Q!! It sands very well.
Reading the posts on Orby's thread about sanding....I always use a cork block and just use drawing pins to hold the paper on, normally use 320 grit sandpaper for final finishing.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2544.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/125_2546.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2627.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2623.jpg)
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The thin veneer!
After cutting out the "hole" on the top....courtesy of a newly acquired Dremel (tool bought for work use of course!) I started on the veneering, one bit that had me thinking was the direction of the side veneer, the plans show it all "pointing" forward but the box shows the sides going backwards....I decided it would look nicer all going in th same direction.
Never done veneering, but Orby I'm glad I read your thread...didn't let water near it! Used Evostick for most of the veneering, overlapped the 90 Deg centre joints then drew a pencil line and used a scalpel to cut them off.
Didn't chamfer the edges until I had put a few on so I had to do some filling after. I used CA to hold the short side ones on, good job too as I had to replace a few which didn't look right.
Steamed the ones on the end and was quite pleased with result, had to make up a few thin filler pieces though!
Veneer pics below
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2631.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2630.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2629.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2632.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2633.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2628.jpg)
It goes on!!!
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Veneering cont
Short update with pics to follow.
Sanded the whole hull last night...I think it took me 4-5 hours! Used sanding sealer on the underside, I'm going to use varnish on the top.
Used a sanding block with 320 (I think) paper, got the veneer very smooth BUT did a bit too much sanding so in some parts it is paper thin!!
had to repair a couple of holes...used mahogany filler, did a bit of testing before and found some brands too light, I will post the brand I found to be the best match.
The instructions for the varnish said "wipe down bare wood with a damp cloth" nervous about this but did it anyway, i think its or but it did raise the grain a bit in places.
Starting varnish tonight....should end up with 8-9 coats.
More to follow soon.
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Thanks for showing us that - it looks very nice. I admire people who build boats covered in veneer, but wouldn't wish to emulate them. If it's an oil based varnish I'm surprised you had to wipe it with a (water) damp cloth - usually it's a white spirit damp cloth. Hope you saw the TV documentary on the slo-Mo Shuns last year -I bet it did a lot for sales of the kit!
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Hi all,
Yet another tip that you can try at your peril. I was told about this by a chap who could produce a finish you would not believe.
When the wood was sanded and ready for the first coat of what ever, he would mist spray with water. He would then dry the wood with a blow lamp. He claimed the heat dried the fine hairy timber which scorched away, leaving no small raised bits.
Go on, give it a try on some scrap.
Bob
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Hi,
Don't know about the blow lamp but in the gun trade when working on walnut stocks I have seen the gunsmith wipe it with meths then set it on fire. The stock is kept moving at all times whilst the meths burns off to prevent scorching.
This is supposed to remove any hairy bits and bring out the grain. Never tried it myself as these gunsmiths are rare birds and spend years learning their trade.
Colin H.
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Hi Colin H,
Re the above tip. He was a retired gun smith actually. I didn't think to mention that bit.
Bob
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Hi All
Veneer sanded down prior to varnishing
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2643.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2642.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2641.jpg)
mark
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More pics showing first two coats of varnish, rubbed down in between with 400 grit paper.
I was using a rubber backed sanding sheet but its quite pricey at one sheet per coat!
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2644.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2645.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2646.jpg)
mark
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Hi Toby
Missed the doc last year...was it on Discovery? Lost my Sky access last year....so I think thats why I have more time on my hands!!!
The varnish is..as expected..strengthening the veneer, I will do a few coats then do the underside and finally the last few coats on the top.
Without sounding too sad...I really am enjoying the challenges that the "poor" kit quality throws up! Even the veneering/varnishing is satisfying!
Mark
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Hi Mark,
Your build looks ace! The varnish is looking good already after only a couple of coats, it all looks so simple. Why oh why oh why oh why oh why (you get my drift) didn't I just use varnish???? You might have had some problems earlier on but it all looks very neat, well done.
And what has me laughing here, is that what has taken me over a year, about 110 forum posts and countless questions, you've done in 12 posts! ;D Ah, you gotta laugh....
Anyway now you're ahead of me I'm going to be asking you things as I go gradually along. What are you thinking motor-wise? Have you looked into 'surface drive' or whatever it's called?
Well done again, she's looking like a beaut already.
All ther very best, Orb.
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Pictures on post #13 - absolutely gorgeous. The doc must have been on terrestial as we don't have the others. I'll follow you pogress with interest. I think you have to go surface piercing for the greatest speed - she should plane on the sponsons and propellor boss, though stability in pitch becomes a bit of a problem!
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Hi all,
I know that orby1 had problems with his epoxy resin, but I have always found that the pores/holes in the grain of the wood will show through for many coats of varnish. I know it does depend on the wood, but I mainly use mahogany which is bad for this.
I always use two coats of epoxy thinned 50/50 after which I flat it down to what looks like bare wood, and then apply paint or varnish as required. In fact I have several IC powered wooden boats that I have run for a couple of seasons with just the two thinned down epoxy coats, with no finish yet applied, and they show no signs of water damage. I have noticed that lite ply and balsa has less of a tendency to puddle the epoxy resin than Birch ply has. I think that is because Birch is less absorbant.
In the days before epoxy, if I was varnishing, I always used two coats of varnish thinned 50/50 before trying to get a shinny finish with the top coats.
Waffle over Bob
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Hi Marksaab,
If you missed the tv documentary (as did I) about the Slo Mo Shuns, maybe I could do you a favour. In MMI magazine from last May, Ernie Lazenby wrote a good article about the history of the world water speed record, including a section about the Slo Mo, with a few pictures of his models too - well worth a look. Also, in the August edition, one of the magazine staff has built 'our' model and featured it as a write up in the magazine with step by step intructions and photos. It's pretty helpful and I wish WISH WISH I'd seen it before I started!!!
If you'd like a copy, PM me your postal address and I'll photocopy them at work and post them to you. I know you've managed to get a good way into the model without any help from the article, but every little helps, as they say.
Julian.x
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Hi All !
More varnishing last night...slowly learning...latest lesson...dont use quick drying varnish in a warm flat...it dries as it comes of the brush and means more sanding!
Buying some normal stuff today.
Dead right about the grain showing through but I'm hoping lots of coats will help, sanding down with wet and dry, seems to be going ok.
Now I'm feeling a bit guilty cos I'm building this one for static "display" actually I may be really mercenary and sell it after to finance the next one and make use of all these new "skills" I've learnt. I would like to see it mobile, world speed record boats have been of interest to me since the 70's and I actually bought plans for Slo-mo-shun at the Model Engineer Exhibition when it was still held at the Wembly Conference Centre!
I will try to do a bit of digging about the TV doc if it was in C4 I may be able to get a copy from someone I know at RDF.
Have good day everyone and thanks for the positive feedback!
BTW orby i have sent my address via PM.
Mark
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Dead right about the grain showing through but I'm hoping lots of coats will help, sanding down with wet and dry, seems to be going ok.
Good workmanship, slightly spoiled by the quality of wood used, though that's all you can expect from Billing unfortunately. They've always had a reputation for crap wood, though believe it or not, things do seem to have improved a little in recent years. To lose the grain, you have to use a suitable filler before applying varnish, you aren't going to do that with varnish alone. It's pretty low tech, but I use ordinary dope based sanding sealer, 2 or 3 thinned coats should be enough on cheap mahogany like this. Dry sand with 180 silicon carbide, dusting off all the time, and only then apply the varnish. I've never had any adhesion problems with this method, and you'll need far fewer coats of varnish to achieve a good finish.
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Hi all,
I know that orby1 had problems with his epoxy resin, but I have always found that the pores/holes in the grain of the wood will show through for many coats of varnish. I know it does depend on the wood, but I mainly use mahogany which is bad for this.
I always use two coats of epoxy thinned 50/50 after which I flat it down to what looks like bare wood, and then apply paint or varnish as required. In fact I have several IC powered wooden boats that I have run for a couple of seasons with just the two thinned down epoxy coats, with no finish yet applied, and they show no signs of water damage. I have noticed that lite ply and balsa has less of a tendency to puddle the epoxy resin than Birch ply has. I think that is because Birch is less absorbant.
In the days before epoxy, if I was varnishing, I always used two coats of varnish thinned 50/50 before trying to get a shinny finish with the top coats.
Waffle over Bob
How and with what do you thin down epoxy resin ? ???
Richard ;)
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Hi I guess I'm too late to use sanding sealer now? I used it on the underside and it certainly fills the grain.
My next kit will not be a Billing! Any recommendations for good quality all wood kits, thinking about a sailing boat next.
I'm reluctant to try resin because any mishaps need a lot of rework...sorry Orby!!
I plan to have it finished in a couple of weeks...fingers crossed!
Mark
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Hi DickyD,
There have been quite a few posts regarding epoxy and thinners in the past, so I will keep it short.
I use meths, I have never had a problem with any make of epoxy when using it.
The correct book name for the thinners (not too sure about spelling) is De natured alcohol.
Which is meths with added colour and smell.
After I have mixed in the two epoxy components, I just stir in the meths. For the first two coats I use equal quantities of epoxy to thinners (50/50)
Regards Bob
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Thanks Bob, nice straight forward answer, short and to the point ;D
Richard ;)
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BTW orby i have sent my address via PM.
I'll get the articles away to you today Mark. ;) Being B/W photocopies they're sometimes a little contrasty and it might be hard to see the fine details of the photographs, but they'll still be a good read for you.
Cheers, Julian.
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Cheers Julian
Easy to get a bit carried away with this boat stuff...better get on with some real work!!!
Mark
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Hi All
Quick post to say I changed all the pics to photobucket.
Hopefully they all work ok!!!
Mark
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Hi All
Firstly a big thanks you to Orby for the articles!
Still in the varnish-sanding-varnish phase.....5 coats now and it really is looking better, the "pitting" in the grain has almost gone, I'm now going to finish the underside and the other parts before I do the final few top coats...using a slow drying resin!
Has anyone got some brush recommendations...I'm guessing I need a very soft brush to avoid leaving brush strokes...no matter how light I brush now it still leaves marks.
Doing more over the w.end so more pics coming.
Mark
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I saw a couple of boats at swansea a few years ago. He had used resin but had put it on with a credit card very thin, it looked very good so when I did the cabin roof and decks of my tug I used the same method and it worked very well. It stops any hollows and it sanded up very quick without adding weight to the model . test it on a scrap pice of wood first , it works better than brushes . Peter
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Glad you got the articles Mark, I hope they help. ;)
As for brushes, now that the resin I put on is going on properly, nice and smooth with no problems, I've found it a piece of cake to use. The brushes I have are cheap nasty ones that the model shop sell in packs of 6, for using once with resin then throwing away. I think they just call them 'resin brushes' or something. They leave no brush marks as the resin goes on then 'settles' nice and flat.
On my thread there was a raging, heated debate ( ;D) about cleaning resin off brushes, and which kind to use, etc, but the shop guy just threw in a pack of the cheapies, and they seem fine - it certainly saves messing about trying to get resin off brushes. I think a 6-pack is meant to be about a quid or so.
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Hi all,
Firstly with regard to finishing off with slow drying resin. If as I read it, you intend to use resin as the final finish, this is not a good idea. The final coat or two should be exterior varnish which has UV filtering built in. Epoxy has not, and will be effected by sun light. Having said that, I have several boats as already mentioned, that are still in basic epoxy which after two years are still ok.
I may have been involved in the discusion you mentioned about cleaning brushes. I am still using the same three brushes over a five year period. All I do is wipe the brushes on news paper to remove any excess resin, then drop them into a tall jar with an inch of meths in, and then refit the screw cap. I have had no problems with this method. I do agree though that if the brushes were removed from this jar and left open to the air, they would go hard. I would think that over a five year period I would have used 20 to 30 pounds worth of cheap brushes. My method of cleaning and storage takes about ten seconds. I do have to clean the bottom of the jar about once a year to clear away settled resin from the bottom of the jar, or it tends to stick to the bottom of the bristles. The one thing I don't understand is why the bristles have not developed a curve after standing in the jar for so long. !
Bob
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Hi Bob
Sorry wasn't too clear, the final coats will be normal varnish not epoxy, the only change was that I'm not using quick drying varnish.
Any thoughts on spraying the final coat?
Mark
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Hi marksaab,
Can't comment on spraying, as I've never sprayed except with aerosol cans, and not on varnish.
I do however use the two pack finish on my fast electric style boats, with very good effect. I suppose you could use the clear coat over what you have already done, but obviously try it on a scrap piece of varnish first. >:( :( ??? :-[ :-\ :'(
Bob
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If you are just using ordinary varnish and not the quick drying variety then you might just as well use a brush as the varnish will have time to level out before it dries.
Richard ;)
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Hi All
More varnishing over the weekend and I think a bit too much rubbing down!
Think I'm up to 7 coats now but I lost count! Stopped using wet and dry for rubbing down as it was lifting the edges of the veneer, so just using the paper dry so I'm getting through a lot of it!
Changed to normal slow drying varnish now and its much better, a few pics below, i tried unsuccessfully to show that it does look better but all I seemed to highlight was the dark strips....but I like the way the look changes in different light.
Now I'm starting the instrument panel, the usual lack of info in the "instructions" is annoying....I have found some pics on the net so I think I can get it done tonight.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2665.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2663.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/126_2662.jpg)
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Hi
Just been doing a bit of "surfing" and found this link to some decent Slo Mo pics:
http://www.thunderboats.org/50slomoshun/index.html
I was looking for more instrument panel details....but I thinks it really is as simple as the pic on the box.
Unfortunately is does show that I laid the veneer on the sides in the wrong direction!! ??? Oh well more lessons!
Right...home now for tea and more sanding!
Mark
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The finish on your Slomo looks gorgeous Mark, nice one! Blimey if I'd got that kind of finish on mine I'd be a happy chappy.
I've also laid the veneer on the sides 'wrong' too, but I don't remember noticing until now, ha ha ha! Ah well. The picture on the box lid shows it going the right way, but I still think our way looks nicer. Don't worry about it, your model is going to look stunning.
Have you seen http://www.slomoshun.com ?? There isn't a heck of a lot of info here, or many pictures, but what's there is interesting.
Julian. ;)
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Hi Orby
I only have broadband access from my office so its meant a few late evenings trawling for Slo-Mo-Info! The "official" sites pretty good, next time I'm Stateside I'm tempted to go and see the real thing!
Finally started on the control panel...wanted to get some decent pics but I really must stop thinking of this kit as the ultimate in scale accuracy and just finish it and get onto th next one.
Spent another £40 on more paint, tools, bits etc etc :( from a very good model shop near Bassingbourne - "Model Workshop", run by a really friendly guy who knows his stuff! :)
God this post is a bit boring!!! I'll try to make the next one more interesting!!
Hows your one going?
Mark
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Hi Orby
Hows your one going?
Hi Mark,
Take some photos of the real thing if/when you go to America fi you're in Seattle - that would be brilliant.
Mine's going slowly on thanks, although I get very little time to work on her - a few hours a week average I bet. >:( I have work and a 3yr old who won't let me get the model out when she's around ("How sharp is this scalpel daddy?"!!!). I have put a couple more coats of resin on the bottom which went on fine, so it's had 3 now, and I have 4 nightshifts starting tonight in which to sit there sanding away all night while no-one's looking.
You're getting ahead of me on the boat's body now, which is good as for the first time I'll have someone else's model to look at! I have however gone ahead a few months ago and begun the engine cover (you'll enjoy making the exhaust pipes and attaching them!) and tail fin.
Keep at it mate,
Julian. ;)
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Hi All...Seems like ages since I posted last but I'm back in my building groove and i can see the end in sight....at least I think I can! In fact I,ve already decided on my next one...USS Constitution from Constructo Kits, I thought I may as well make use of the tools I bought...not sure about the skills I've learned though!
What a lovely weekend though! Saturday was too nice to be in so I took myself down to Rochester and then Shoreham to take pics of houseboats (mainly old patrol boats as I'm looking to buy one later this year, i will post house boaty stuff on another forum.
So Sunday pm/eve/Mon AM! was build time, I mentioned before that i didn't like the open hull where the seat goes so I boxed it in, I must have had too much time on my hands because i decided to use the spare planking instead of the sheet that I had.
First pic shows the new wider cabin floor with a strip along the bottom acting as a stop for the planks
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/127_2761.jpg)
I then fixed a plank at each end and of the sides and put a strip netween them to act as a top support for the planks.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/127_2765.jpg)
Then planked up the rear first, then the sides
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/127_2763.jpg)
A bit of filling then 3 coats of sanding sealer, think it looks ok but I have a nagging feeling I've forgotten something! Hopefully not!
This is how it looks now, ignore how rough the veneer looks, its not had it final few coats yet!! All took about 5-6 hours!!! cannot believe how long it takes but its very relaxing until you realise its almost 2 am...oops!
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/127_2770.jpg)
Also did the engine cover, another couple of hours!! I made up a template in card to position the air scoops etc, funny the box pic shows them as hollow but their are supplied as solid, was going to hollow them out but decided I would prob ruin them! Pics below. BTW you really dont want to know what my girlfriend says the cover looks like ;D
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/127_2757.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/127_2755.jpg)
Most of the sanding etc is now done so after more late night hoovering...sorry to my neighbours! I can start on the painting...I have a (hopefully) cunning plan to get rid of paint fumes etc when I start spraying, more details later.
Have a good week everyone.
Mark
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BTW you really dont want to know what my girlfriend says the cover looks like ;D
Mark
I think I can guess - suffice it to say I nearly bought some pink and purple paint.... ;D ;D ;D ;D
In fact I still might - just to see the looks on the faces of the people at Black Park Club on a Sunday morning! Can you imagine? "Look away children! Look away!" It would be brilliant! And hey I could always do it the right colour later...
Damn it's tempting! ;D
Your Slo Mo is still looking really good anyway Mark, you're in front of me now. Keep it up mate and you'll soon be done. I have no idea when I'm next going to be able to do anything on mine. And the few times I have to work on it, all I can do is sand the "xxxxx" down!
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Yes I think you could call Slo-Mo a real mans boat!
Nearly there, last bit fitting to do on the parts under the cover and the dreaded "exhausts" or shall we call them "headers" in deference to our American cousins!
After the sanding i need to clean my whole work space (dining/living room table!) then start spraying, I have rigged up an extractor so hopefully wont be too hazardous!
Oh I made another boat purchase today, pic below, its sort of a model wooden boat but the scale is 1:1!!! I think the next model may have to wait a bit!!
Happy modelling, and keep it up, like you say its close to finishing but actually most of the fun has been getting round the various hurdles on the way!
Mark
My new project all 32ft of it!!
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Seaplane%20Tender/128_2838.jpg)
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Hi All
Long time no posts!!!
Finally finished the last building stage of the Slo-Mo, I decided I didn't like the plastic engine bay lining parts, they didn't fit and even on the box lid pic they don't look right.
So making use of my bargain balsa pack I made a new floor part then planked the rest in strip parts.
Think it looks OK.
Started sanding the top sides again so finally going to start painting.
Any good tips on getting the red arrow shape masked up? Thought about tracing it of the plan....I'm going to mask and spray it so I want to do a "test" first to check for reactions!
So up to date pics below, I think the end is nigh! :)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/131_3139.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/131_3134.jpg)
Orby how is yours going?
Mark
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That's looking very nice, methinks an RAF HSL should be next on your build list Mark, maybe 2626 or 2605.....
B Rgds, Christian.
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Hi Christan!
Hmmmm very tempting!!
Actually sold the "big model" this morning, got back what i paid for her less £50 agent fee.
Waiting for her to re appear on e.bay with a £10K reserve :)
So now i have freed up some time plan is 1) Finish Slo-Mo, 2) Find out whats going on with 506, 3) Buy another wooden boat...with less holes in it!, 4) Convince my GF that I'm not crazy and I really do like here more than boats etc!
BTW meeting Philip Simons on Sunday...should be educational!
Mark
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Well after a short break for “Summer” I finally knuckled down and finished Slo-Mo!
I wanted to clear the decks so I can start on my next builds and cos it was bugging me to see her part built.
Lasts posts showed the underside painted, only one coat of silver enamel as the can said don’t recoat, anyway it seemed to go on ok. I then masked up the topsides for the red arrow, I used a spray masking film, unfortunately it’s a bit too sticky and did lift the varnish in a couple of places.
Went ok but I put on too many coats of paint and the edges ended up a bit rough (another lesson learned!)
So first batch of pics below
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture134.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture135.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture137.jpg)
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Now to the final assembly, I painted the silver rubbing strakes and fitted them using Super Glue (pretty much used this glue for the whole build) I fitted the tail fin and rudder, used 5 minute epoxy so I have some adjustment time. Added the plastic detailing missed out the 2 front scoops for now.
Pics below
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture008.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture013.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture009.jpg)
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A word about the engine cowling, NIGHTMARE! Maybe its just my inexperience but I found it really frustrating, the exhaust manifolds were the worst, two angles to cut, also the reference pics I used showed them at different angles could have been when they changed the engine to a Merlin from the original Allison (I think). Also the “instructions” were their usual vague self on how they were attached, eventually I used to spare bits and got them fitted.
Finished by applying the transfers and the cooling pipes etc.
The dash panel and screen were fiddly but came out ok. Lost some of the dials when they simply fell of after they dried out.
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture012.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture041.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture042.jpg)
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So my thoughts and lessons learned after my first Billings kit build are as follows:
About the kit
I always wanted to build this model so I was really looking forward to starting it, I think I expected a bit more from Billings but I did dive it with a 2* kit for my first build so I cant be too critical…can I? Well yes I can, as noted by other builders the fit of some parts is really bad, yes it’s a challenge but an unnecessary one.
The bits I liked
Planking the hull with the strips was fun, I used Super Glue and just went for it, I did the entire planking in a few hours.
The veneer was not to bad, I did one side first and steamed the ones at the stern to get them round the sharp bends.
I didn’t like
The engine cowling but really that’s it!
Mistakes!
Not putting on enough coats of varnish before using sanding down with WET wet & dry paper, big mistake I stained the veneer which caused the streaks you can now see, I was temped to rip it all off but decided to leave it as a reminder not to do it again!!
Conclusion
Really glad I got the kit and more importantly that I finished it, I not usually good a finishing things so it meant a lot.
Billings kits are ok value, you get what you pay for but then again I don’t have anything to compare them with yet.
So before the final pics I want to say a big THANKS to everyone on the forum its great to have feedback and advice from my modelling peers! After a gap of 26 years since my last build attempt (the Aerokits Rescue Tender…never completed) all the hints etc were really helpful…so Orby and all good luck with your builds see you all again soon!!
O0
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture021.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture027.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture028.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture039.jpg)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/Picture041.jpg)
Ah and finally my girlfriend told me Slo-Mo needs a driver! the pics below are the "before" one, some time next year he will get a makeover and look like the part. Lots of work though..."more tea Vicar"!
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o71/marksaab/Slo%20Mo%20Shun/131_3188.jpg)
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Nice one mate. looks a good un.
Getting into Slo-mo my self, so its good to se a finished one.
Well done.
Orby1: Hows yours looking?
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Cheers Hagar!
It was fun building it! Looking for my next project for a Winter build, too busy playing around with my big boat at the mo!
Slo-Mo gets dusted occationally, still love the way she looks!
Good luck with yours, just ask if you need any pointers.
Mark
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Hello
- and yet another one, I have just laid the ' keel ' and am fixing the frames, I will use all the posts here, plus the build in the Sept. 2006 Model Boats. I don't think I have ever seen so much info. Hopefully they should steer me away from all the Billing's pitfalls (just finished a Billings Bluenose for my wife - Decorative static)
Enjoying getting back to construction, using a Proops brass cubes to keep my frames in line, and upright - so far so good.
Last boat before the Bluenose was a Dave Metcalf Bulldog, I like different challenges, and before that was a Fleetscale Missouri,
love building, not to worried about sailing!!
Colin
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Just a thought, when gluing the compound curved surfaces, I used masking tape to position and hold the ply in position, no pins, no clamps, no elastic, seems to have worked, and its quick and stress free.
Colin
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Hi Sinjon. I found this place really quite good for referance photos. Take a look:
http://thunderboats.smugmug.com/gallery/1963590_iDwTb#99836657_ywPJv
Really good photos from every imaginable angle.
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Latest up date:
Due to the water for my wet and dry is frozen, solid, the workforce; me, is on strike until the boss comes up with some warmer working conditions!!!
Back in the spring, Doing a bit of kit bashing in the study!