Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: RockDam on August 09, 2010, 01:13:07 pm
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I found many online shops in UK selling red and black(Raboesch) universal joint.
How different are they ?
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Hi,
The black couplings are by Dyco.
The splines on the couplings and brass inserts are different between the two manufacturers, and are not interchangeable.
Peter
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The black ones are supposed to be better balanced, whilst the shaft holes in the red ones can sometimes be slightly off centre.
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Thank you.
Hi Peter,
the google results for "Dyco Coupling" are red.
No problem, I will buy black.
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Hi
I have only ever used Dyco, from my local modelshop, and they have always been the black ones.
But from having seen the Raboesch red version, I have found that the parts are not 'easily' interchangeable. This was because of the spline difference on the joint and brass insert peices. I say 'easily', as they can be 'persuaded' to fit, but the end result may not run smoothly, without vibration.
Having also tried some 'Googling', everything now seems to be red.
Sorry I can't add anything more specific.
Peter
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Dyco are the red ones. O0
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Don't get either! ok2
Just get the inserts to suit your motor and your prop shaft and cut a length of flexible gas pipe to push on them. :-)) :-))
Works a treat and you can cut slightly varying lengths to suit your installation!!
Used this method on fast planing boats (see avatar) and is used on good sized tugs. O0 O0
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Good morning respected members..i have a little doubt about couplings. i will be a free bird as i resign my job to be a full time model maker. so i need ample of various couplings for my need..i saw two of here. but its far beyond my reach, as all you are in UK and US.in India no one is able to supply like one.so i have ordered some here in my lathe. so one doubt which metal is apropriate to make couplings..? MS or SS or Brass..? now i am coupling all shafts with ball point refill tubes coated with epoxy adhesives.not reliable much..please guide me once..
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Hi Rathikrishna.
Make the end fittings from brass. Much easier to machine.
Use flexible gas pipe (as mentioned in earlier post) to join these.
Either use a cross pin, or glue or even just a push fit if the required torque is not too high.
:-)) :-)
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What are the dimensions and where can I buy Flexible Gas Pipe?
Bob.
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Aircraft model shop, ask for silicon exhaust tubing, dia to be push-fit over splines. You still need to get propshaft and motor shaft lined-up.
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Hi Bob V
Look in local yellow pages for "Calor". The local supplier will have it readily available, at couple of pound a metre,
As arrow says - Silicon exhaust tubing is fine, although it is a little softer and costlier (but for the amount you'll use probably not an issue) :}
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Thanks for the info. Will try and get some to try.
Bob.
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Nice..and thank you for the knowhow..and by this time i have turned two from brass, and equiped with allen key bolt to tight the shaft..but when motor pumps up the full power the shaft is slipping inside the coupler and grinds off..so i have to try the exhaust tube mentioned above..thank you all...
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Put a flat on the shaft where the Allen screw clamps to it??
Regards Ian.
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i try to make all my own cuplings now as it's realy cheap O0
firstly the ends are made from brass rod , this is obtained from the carboot sales etc from companion sets (the things put by the fireplace with a poker brush etc).
secondly the flexable joint is fuel line (petrol) bought from your local motor factors , halfords etc.
Turn the brass so its a tight fit on the tube drill it out for your motor shaft / prop shaft (this might want a thread tapping out)
and then if its for a high torque application drill a 1mm hole through the rube and the coupling to take a wire retainer to stop it slipping.
I have used this method since i bought my lathe and it works out about 50p for the set up , depending on how much i paid for the brass, the last set was free :-)) .
daz
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Just spotted the error of my interpretation, the brass is spinning inside the flexible??
Before the advent of plastic everything more than fifty years ago, we found pretty quickly that the plastic hose connecting the propshaft to an ED Racer didn't work. Most times it ground out the inside if the flexible and on one occasion broke the propshaft.
Might be a noise thing or forgotton methods but the old "Rip-Max" universal ball joint coupler and the pin and disc, with varying media for the disc, have dropped into obscurity.
Regards Ian.