Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: Dekan on August 18, 2010, 08:47:08 pm
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Anybody got any recommendations...
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Anybody got any recommendations...
I have previously used UHU Hart on ABS and had no problems. In fact my Graupner boat went to the bottom of the lake with no ill effects.
Rockets.
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Hi Dekan.
Evostick pipe weld from B&Q etc..
or try http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/ABS-Glue.
I recommend roughing the area to be glued with emmery or wet dry frist as it keys the plastic for better adhesion.
cheers Frank
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I thought UHU Hart was a type of balsa cement, it was when I used it for making stick and tissue planes about 20 years ago ...
Frank have you actually used the Evostick Pipe Weld? The eplastic link appears to be a US website..is it available in the UK?
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The best way is with a liquid "cement" similar to Liquidpoly and Mekpak for Plasticard.
I use EMA's Plastic Weld which can be bought in model shops or from here -
http://www.ema-models.co.uk/
It will also stick Plasticard to ABS.
Don't roughen the surfaces before use. To ensure a waterproof joint I would suggest the following method -
1)Paint the surfaces to be joined with the cement and leave to dry for about 30 minutes.
2)Hold the parts together and run the cement into the joint with a paint brush. Clamp together overnight at room temperature.
3)Paint some cement onto a waste piece of ABS and scrape the wet cement and dissolved plastic into a paste and apply to the inside of the joint.
This company also makes a similar product -
www.starloc.eu
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Revell Liquid Poly works for me :-))
Barrie
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Be careful with 'solvent' type glues , misuse may cause melting / distortion of your plastic.
I've always used superglues, a thick type, then wicked around inside several times with then.
See: Robbe S130 build
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Builds/S130/Part_6.htm
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Builds/S130/1ndex.htm
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Plastic Weld and if this is a repair to the hull, overlay on the interior with plasticard. :-))
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I used 'Nail and Seal' on my Club 500. Works a treat and gives a flexible joint which won't crack on impact.
Sticks almost anything to anything.
Available at B&Q.
Bob.
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I thought UHU Hart was a type of balsa cement,
Yes it was/is. Untill the pletheroae of "Cyanoacrylates for everything" came along, Graupner advised the use of "Hart" for gluing the parts of the "Cirrus" together (Original was an ABS fusegludge) and apart from some of us who found that larger quantities were available CHEAPER by using "Osma PVC/ABS pipe cement", it WAS the glue of choice.
Pipe cement is still the best to get a "Welded" joint on this material, but if yer pile it on, it's going to melt its way through. If you clamp close fitting parts together and apply the solvent with an artists type paint brush and let capilliary action take it through and let it dry, by applying succesive thin layers of "Glue" painted through a "bandage" type material, ( look up how to repair broken Cirrus Fuselage), a homoganous patch is generated.
Regards Ian
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How did you break your Cirrus Fus ? Ian... %)
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Didn't have one mate, could never afford Johannes's creations, tip was picked up from early RM, but have used it since. Balsa cement was reccomended but again, Yorkshire frugality prevailed. :-))
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I thought UHU Hart was a type of balsa cement, it was when I used it for making stick and tissue planes about 20 years ago ...
Frank have you actually used the Evostick Pipe Weld? The eplastic link appears to be a US website..is it available in the UK?
It does work great on balsa but as it's a solvent based adhesive it works fine on ABS.............................................................................
As mentioned it does need care, but what aspect of model building doesn't?
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Light the blue touch paper and retire immediately Rockets? Who takes any notice of instructions anyway? Lack of experiment and discovery mean we're in a diminishing technological society that blindly accepts bulls**t as the norm.
Regaqrds Ian.
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Light the blue touch paper and retire immediately Rockets? Who takes any notice of instructions anyway? Lack of experiment and discovery mean we're in a diminishing technological society that blindly accepts bulls**t as the norm.
Regaqrds Ian.
Thank you Circlip, nicely put. I'm not suggesting that anyone ruin an expensive model but where would we be without a bit of risk!!
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Ian, I don't like any risk of things getting damaged or falling apart, when I'm glueing anything thank you, particularly on one of my model airplanes. :-))
So excuse me if I stick to the more conservative solutions. {-)
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Wasn't a poke at you Dekan, you asked the question and got a choice of answers. You pick whichever you feel safe with. Ultimately fusing the plastic together is going to give the strongest bond (Welding). Not all adhesives are capable of doing this. Don't forget, Cyanos are water soluble.
Regards Ian.
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Wasn't a poke at you Dekan, you asked the question and got a choice of answers. You pick whichever you feel safe with. Ultimately fusing the plastic together is going to give the strongest bond (Welding). Not all adhesives are capable of doing this. Don't forget, Cyanos are water soluble.
Regards Ian.
Ditto from me Dekan. Sorry if I sounded bullish, I'm just a fan of the old melty glues!
Best of luck with the project.
Rockets.
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Hey guys no problem.. I was just making a point and having a little fun, with a possible reading of your posts :}
I am look at a SH ABS boat hull and wondering if I should buy it off a mate...it looks a little far gone to me {-)