Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: gregk9 on February 16, 2011, 09:03:55 am
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Following on from me, er "recent success" with building the myhobbystore "Egrete" pusher tug, Ive decided to have a go at another from the same store. RMAS Moorhen.
If any of you have built or have any details or even better, some decent picture images of this vessel, id greatly appreciate them.
if interested, I will put a build blog on here, but kindly let me know by a reply, otherwise I may not bother to do so, if no one is interested, Don't want to waste my time so to speak.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1yi97ejhg/moorhen_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1yi97ejhg/)
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Don't Myhobbystore produce the hull for the modern Moorhen?.
If it is the modern one "Old Dodes" is her ex Skipper and has lots of photographs of her.
Bob
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YES, they still have the hull and plans available, thats what is says in my mesage above. I so much enjoyed the Egrete build, have decided to buy another from same store!.
i will contact "old dodes" and see if he will be kind enough to divulge some info on the vessel.
many thanks.
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He has just been round here so will post a bit later.
Bob
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Comes across a bit abrupt Bob, but I wouldn't mind seeing his build.
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Hi Gregg,
Have already sent you a PM on this, I take it you are after the deatails of the late 1980's build not the steamer you have shown. I have about 30 photo's of details I took for someone else to build this craft, plus a short video I took of a buoy change in the Portsmouth channel. Just remember her working decks were rust coloured not painted she was a working craft not a dadies yacht. Also any questions about her be free to ask, because if I cannot answer them, I know those that can.
David
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Hi David, yes, it is the pater version i will be building, my appoligies but at the time i did my first web search for images, the picture at the top of this list was the only one that came to light, since then, obviously I have managed to find a few more, but not many I will add.
its like the actual "tech spec", all i could find was this on a link:-
Moorhen class lifting craft
Displacement: 600 tons full load
Dimensions: 106 x 38 x 6.5 feet
Propulsion: 2 diesels, 2 shafts, 730 bhp, 8 knots
Crew: 10 + 5 divers/salvage crew
Mooring tenders, salvage lift craft and experiment support craft.
Number Name Year Homeport Notes
Y32 Moorhen 1989 Portsmouth
Y33 Moorfowl 1989 Devonport
A72 Cameron 1991 Rosyth
(http://s2.postimage.org/2414kvx9g/145955.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2414kvx9g/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/24168f9r8/265220.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24168f9r8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/241l49e78/369788_rmas_y32_moorhen_moored_at_weymouth.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/241l49e78/)
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I have been studying the pictures I have, but am trying to decide on the most accurate colour for the upperworks and the closest one I can think of at the moment is it "looks" the same sort of yellowy/orange as that used by caterpillar on their plant stuff. I know I can get this in Humbrol range, or was it paler in shade?
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I seem to recall that Paul Freshney built the original mould and did a build review in 'model boats' magazine.
Could be a good place to start.
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yes, you're right, and i have managed to order a copy of that too, from same source as the rest, especially as it was only £3 inc postage.
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Yeah her upperworks was standard RN buff, hull black, guardrails white (working deck, battered and rust stained but with large amounts of heavy rust, decks olive green as used on RN decks but main working deck mainly rust and bright steel were the chain etc has scrapped). Load line not applied until about 2005. Was used for moorings in shallow water, any 2nd and 1st class moorings would require a sal class to loosen the mooring centre and anchors first. The crane was 10t swl, the main winchs would pull 15t each, only 2 forward, the other two operated the stern anchors. Starboard anchor was subsitted by a 3t clump for working in moorings etc. The propulsion was twin aquamasters with a 1t thrust standard bowthruster to assist berthing etc. The two winchs aft operated a working main and a anchor wire each, which was an absolute pain when operating the boat as you had to ignore all safety operating procedures when laying back on a mooring leg and laying the anchor. The clutches on the anchor/mains wire drums where electronically operated not direct electric type, so if you accidentally overloaded too much they would release and everyone then have to change thier underpants. The working main wire's were specials and had a breaking strain of 120t's, no danger ever of breaking them, except the crews balls when pulling them about by hand. The other main work was light bouy maintenance and putting vessels into and out of chains(i.e. ships laid up in moorings. Salvage she was never designed for and was not equipped for in any way.
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Have posted a picture of the crocodile jaws and rollers, as far as I know, the jaws were never used, the port post was the only one used as the other one was usually siezed up. The post was used as a lead for wires and keeping a main wire to one side of the apron for crew safety.
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The plans arrived this morning from myhobbystore, so only took 48hrs from purchase to arrival, so not bad going. The hull bits are on back order however, so wont be shipped untill at least the 19th of the month.
So after unfolding the plans and actually looking at the beast, "live" so to speak, it gives me a better impression now of actual size and scope, especially for my lighting rigs and my interest in getting that crane arm doing some movement, hopefully i can get it to both rotate and lift/lower, but we'll have to wait and see. but, being as im waiting on the hull, I may well start the crane first.
I have spoken to Steve at modelboatbits [www.modelboatbits,com] and have placed an order for the drive components, namely: 40mm korts with 4 blade props, huco couplings and a pair of 180mm stainless steel propeller shafts. Incidentally, Steve not only stocks run of the mill propeller sizes, he can and will make up any you need to order, as he has his own workshop , so rather than you having to compromise of this sort of thing, Steve will make you an exact length one to suit your build.
I already have a pair of drive motors in stock, which I believe should be suitable to push this boat along, a pair of Deans marine "Kondor's", courtesey of ebay at a meagre £6 the pair. I had to get a pair of bushes for the one motor, but deans marine willingly replaced as the brush arm had broke, and they wanted to see whay it had done so, causing the brush to fall out.
Ive not yet decided on the hull construction, dont know if to go with the recommended ply wood construction or to follow my egrete design and go for a full plastic build, as there are not that many radii to form, but I dare say I could simply insert some wooden blocks and shape those to suit at those points. Lets just say "the jury's still out" on this one as yet.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lv1d89ic/100_3584.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lv1d89ic/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lv6buazo/100_3585.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lv6buazo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lv7zdnhg/100_3586.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lv7zdnhg/)
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I do not know if it is on your plans, but shortly after build she was fitted with Dyn-ommeters for the working mains, the mains I believed where altered soon after build to special wires and could not have spliced eyes fitted to the working ends but had special connectors sweated on the wire ends. I have burnt the pics on to a disc for you, but had a problem with my PC which wiped out the DVD writer. I will get the video burnt off though with another system.
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Thanks for the pics so far on this site, they are really useful. Looking at the plans, the plans basically only cover the rough outline of the vessel, specific details are "not there", same goes for the rear main winches, they are pictured, but not detailled, that, like a lot of other things is down to the actual model builder it seems.
I see what you means about deck condition, all the plans say is "green - non slip - ha ha.
I think if i skin the deck with a sheet of plastic, but sand the plastic sheet first, to roughen up and then pain "rusted", it will be of better effect, just leave the odd touch of "deck green" right along the edges where no work boot or cable would of dragged would be more accurate than the deck plan.
I shall definately remember about the single post use, again, plans show both, but due to the side elevation on the plans, there is no details "shown through" the side deck plating or railings.
Incidentally, the main mast looks a work of art, was it circular tube all over or square tube main and smaller round tube for the upperworks, where the lighting rigs are.
I presume the double arrangement of "red/green" lanterns on the lower level of the mast were for navigation lighst when going astern, show show "correct" when going in opposite direction. [Please forgive me, but Im no sailor- just trying to get accurate info].
many thanks for your perseverence with the pic disc and video clip, it will be greatly appreciated.
The plans do show the hull fitted out with 2 "marx" drive units, but my funds wont run to them, so am having to fit with korts instead, but should still look ok once in the water.
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Ive had the info/build pack arrive this morning from myhobbystore. This contains the writeup which was printed in their magazine back in March 1995.
it contains a lot of info about how they actually made a pattern to cast glass fibre moulds off the hull former that made. but then goes on th o the actual model they build, which was using a styrene hull, made oiff the original lgass fibre one and a styrene pack for all the upperworks, so my decision has been made for my construction.
these pages of the original build fill a few gaps in as far as its build goes, plus a single picture shot of the internal bridge layout which will save me from leaving it totally bare, especially with all the windows it has.
i can now also see I will need to build/construct a buoy to sit on the forward deck, give the crane something to hand on to!
So , yes, whilst waiting for the styrene pack and hull to arrive, I will begin with construction of the main crane and then start seeing how I can get it to work too, with the assistance of a couple of servo's [hopefully].
(http://s1.postimage.org/1zf2brzt0/100_3587.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zf2brzt0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1zffk2rr8/100_3588.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zffk2rr8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1zfiv5gqs/100_3589.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zfiv5gqs/)
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Hi Gregg,
When you are ready give me a nod, I have all the info required to make standard MoD light and mooring buoys. Also all mooring chain used on buoys in the Portsmouth area was 38mm open link, which had a diameter of 42mm for the links.
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Have pot up two pics one shows the dynommeters just forward of the working winch and the other shows a fairlead in the Burma way through which each individual working main pass's.
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Sorry pushed the wrong button but here is the pic of the fairlead
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I have commenced construction, but whilst awaiting delivery of the hull and styrene pack from the suppliers, ive decided to start with the crane assembly.
I am hoping to add a couple of servos below deck to enable the crane to swivel and raise/lower, but that may be another story a little later, but the construction of the crane will still be the same no matter what the outcome.
I copied the dimensions on to some plain paper from which the plastic patterns were cut out and joined together to build up the crane boom. this was built in 2 sections, the forward section being smaller and slotted inside the bigger rear section and glued in place at the length directed by the plans.
Ive made up the swivel base with support uprights and strengtheners and build 1 hydraulic cylinder, to check the lift height out. I have added the lift winch base and the hook pulley pivots to the end of the boom and left all to dry before moving on.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ytk6d81w/100_3590.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ytk6d81w/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ytltwkjo/100_3617.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ytltwkjo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ytnhfx1g/100_3618.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ytnhfx1g/)
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Looking Forward to seeing your write up and model. I spent a few days on the old Laymore (She was Steam with a derrick) and on the Salmaster after she was sold out of service.
Jimmy
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The styrene hull and flat pack arrived this morning. The hull looks like it has alrweady been through several "wars" and is not a good mould at all. I can see I will have some difficulty with it, as even marking the hul to cut the deck line is not easy as both hul sides appear different in the moulding process, So I will be measuring at least 4 times to cut once on this one.
The flat pack is also another laugh, as the sheets have all been roughly cut the same size, normally not a problem, but all of them are too small for any of them to act as the main deck.
the hull is roughly 740mm x 280mm. the sheets supplied being 660mm x 230, so no matter which way i position the sheets, there are going to be joins where I dont really need them.
(http://s1.postimage.org/338gqao78/100_3619.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/338gqao78/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/338ncg26c/100_3620.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/338ncg26c/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/338x9o550/100_3621.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/338x9o550/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/33928a6mc/Copy_of_100_3622.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/33928a6mc/)
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I have managed to do a little more work on the hull. I have now made the major cuts and removed the excess material, to get the front down to deck level and the stern down to the top of the stern railing height. I have added a 10mm wide 0.5mm thick flat strengthener strip around the inside of the hull, just below the deck level, to support the deck once its time to fit. I have also added a vertical support in the stern and a double brace in the bows, but this will have a further strengthener installed, to help support the lifting horns later.
You will also notice that I have strengthened the keel. I have bonded in a 12mm [1/2 inch] wooden dowel rod, the full length, making a "vee" cut towards the bows, to take in the forward rake angle, but not completely severing the dowel in half, bonding back in, the triangular cutout piece afterwards as the epoxy was poured in to form a stronger bond. This has helped to stiffen the hull and give it some rigidity.
Due to the very vague definitions on the hull sides I am also having to transfer all the cutout details by hand to the hull, for carefull removal of all the open ports and openings. I have managed to do one side for now, stern and port side to do next.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1gmfkrb8/100_3625.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gmfkrb8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1gre6ssk/100_3627.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gre6ssk/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1gup9hs4/100_3624.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gup9hs4/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h1bevr8/100_3626.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h1bevr8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1hb8mypw/100_3628.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1hb8mypw/)
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I remember one sort of salvage/rescue job this vessel had by chance with the R Y Brittania, it happen when she was poodling down to work on the Norris buoy. The Britannia coming the other way suffered her usual power failure and her wheel stuck at hard to starboard, she slewed in towards the Norris bank and did a emergency anchor in very very shallow water, any way the Moorhen put a connection into the yachts stern and used her engines to keep the yachts stern in deeper water until tugs arrived to take over. I was working in Portsmouth Harbour Contyrol at the time and although the RN did it's best to keep it very hush, the general public was ringing my office within 15 minutes to tell me that the yacht was in trouble and aground by the Norris buoy. Needless to say the Royal Party was put ashore in Portsmouth by the Yachts royal barge from the Norris, the greatest concern by the Naval Base was to find the cleanest steps for them to alight.
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I have managed to measure, mark and cut out all the stern openings today. I still have a few hours of careful filing work now, to finish them off, down to their actual lines, preferring not to cut the plastic direct to line, especially when using a drill to give radii on all the corners.
The inner bracing fitted yesterday has now fully dried and has took most of the flexibility out of the hull, so much better to work on now.
Ive also been informed from "www.modelboatbits.com" that my order of 40mm diameter korts, with 4 blade handed props, stainless steel propeller shafts and huco couplings are ready fro supply, so they will be arriving soon, so i can measure up and align the drive train before I set to fitting further internal bracing beams.
the bracing beams fitted so far are "flat" and have no deck slope, this was done on purpose, so it makes aligning everything else "to square" easier. the deck slope will be added later, with the addition of a correctly angles wedge piece on top of the fitted cross beams/supports.
(http://s2.postimage.org/10xrwogh0/100_3631.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/10xrwogh0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/10y06d6xw/100_3632.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/10y06d6xw/)
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I have now started to construct the main bridge section. First job was to modify the moulded hull, as the sides of the moulding tapered outwards the higher up you got, so i gently heated the plastic, at deck level height and with the aid of a steel rule, used that to "push" the rail to a more vertical angle, to allow for the removable bridge section to be a better fit and profile.
right, back to action. First job was to mark and cut out the 2 side pieces, making sure to note the differences between sides of course. I then added a "sleeve" piece to the bottom/inside area of the side plates, to ease alignment when removaing/refitting the upperworks. There will be additional boxes for it all to sit over, once the deck is in place, but the deck is not going on untill the powerplant is in and working, to give me more access.
I then cut out the cross panels,one for the fron, one for the rear, making special note of the angles of the upper wheelhouse deck and of the underside radius also, these will give profile to the upper deck and under "roof" once installed.
I then marked out and cut the wheelhouse deck, making sure to get the "add on" piece around the funnel and the cut out for the deck ladder too.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2k309furo/100_3634.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k309furo/)
I have made up some triangular corner support tags, to hep keep everything square during build. I also added 2 x10mm wide cross brace strips to hep keep the front and rear panels flat and square too.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2k3581w90/100_3635.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k3581w90/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2k36vl8qs/100_3636.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k36vl8qs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2k3a6nxqc/100_3637.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k3a6nxqc/)
the main upper deck pieces are cut from 2mm thick styrene, moreso for strength and rigidity, as this is the item going to get most of the handling when in use, as you have to hold on to the sides of this to lift off to access the hull access panels for switchear, batteries, motors, rudders etc. I will also need to run some cabling up, via a multi plug connector for the mast lights and radar at some stage, to the side boxes will be hollow, to allow me a direct through route.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2k3dhqmpw/100_3638.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k3dhqmpw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2k3gstbpg/100_3639.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k3gstbpg/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/2k40n9hms/100_3642.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2k40n9hms/)
the portholes have been marked on and I will glue on some additional plastic "blanks" to these positions first, to give the outer raduis of the windows, then carefull cut away the internal bits, to fit the windows inside afterwards.
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Managed to do a little more assembly. Ive now completed the lower box section, under the funnel and constructed the funnel too. I almost forgot about one thing!, the deck under the funnel has a radius to it, as it all follows the upper deck. So had to cut the funnel base to accomodate the deck radius before bonding on top. but at least the funnel looks right and sits vertically.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1eeizijc4/100_3643.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1eeizijc4/)
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(http://s2.postimage.org/1eeplnxb8/100_3646.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1eeplnxb8/)
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Had a "go" at the wheelhouse today. First job was to cut out the side panels, not an easy task as the floor is curved and the front and rear faces sit at an angle to the deck as well, so it took some careful measuring and some working out on some scrap paper to get it all cut rigth. I then marked out all the windows 18 in all, plus 2 doors. the windows all have an "edge lip/surround" and someone suggested a method for reproducing these, without going to the extreme of using plastic "microstrip" and getting a better finish. That is to glue on the surround as a complete "blank", slightly oversize of the window, so this give the surround edge. then once the glue has dried, drill the corner radii, then simply using a "sharp/new" blade, "join the dots".
yes, I was a bit sceptical of this method, having used microstrip in the past when building ordinary plastic models from scratch, so well used to using it. but after seeing the results of this method, only thought it fair to show you, all the results.
I just have to add the wiper motor boxes to the tops of the windows with "flat tops" and then can start on the interior cabinets.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1vl0brvqc/100_3714.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1vl0brvqc/)
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Gregg,
The colour of the buff is humbrol No 7.
This paint is quite thick so I usually mix 50/50 into a clean empty tinlet and apply several thin coats.
Bob
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Humbrol no 7?
I have been told it was no 63. and this was the colour used in the original build in model boats magazine.
im not saying you're wrong, but can you confirm this otherwise i'll have to go buy yet more paint! as I purchased number 63, following earlier instructions.
I have bought Matt variant, as I prefer to paint in matt, then spray in semi gloss clear varnish later once all the details and letterings applied.
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Gregg,
I am an ex engineer on her and have built several RMAS Models.
The colour of the RMAS was the "Old Navy" as in wooden hulls Buff and Black.
When the RN went over to grey the auxiliaries stayed RN Buff and Black.
This is Humbrol No7, it looks right on models too.
I have tried the actual paint used on board but it looks way too yellow.
The only problem with No7 is the high gloss finish. I give a coat of matt which dulls it down nicely.
Believe me it is Humbrol No7.
So many models are painted in 63 but it is far too sandy in colour.
Bob
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Many thanks for your reply and explanation, please accept my apologies for asking twice, but not knowing "who you were", so to speak, I was not to know.
I will take your advice on board about the colour and get some more paint. I'll use the number 63 as basecoat !
incidentally, what colour was the wheelhouse interior?
Im just about to start making up some cabinets and desks, especially due to the large "french windows", theres a lot of view inside.
thanks again
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Greg,
No apologies needed at all.
So many use 63 but it dries a totally wrong colour.
Old Dodes would be better giving you a more detailed colour scheme as he spent far more time there than me.
You do look to be making a fine model of her.
Bob
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Thanks for the comments, im trying my best, but im no expert by a long chalk. Ive only been involved with model boats for just over 18 months to be perfectly honest, but have been building plastic kits since school age shall i say. [ha ha].
I will have to add a little bit of "artistic license" shortly with the wheelhouse and everyone will have to forgive me here. I am intending to power the radar scanner, but to do so means running a driveshaft up through the wheelhouse, not a problem you all say, but due to the rake angle of the front wall. the radar mast drive will have to be further back on the roof than the original mounting,ill not be 100% on its original position. I could put it in correct position, but it would mean running the mast at the same angle as the cabin wall so to speak, but would look terrible, so i will have to relocate slightly rearwards to allow for rotation.
incidentally, did the radar head rotate clockwise or anti clock? Ok so its a simple case of swapping the 2 wires over to change polarity on the motor I fit, but would sooner get it "rft".
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Greg,
Radar scanners almost all rotate clockwise.
If it is a straight motor or geared motor reversing the connections will reverse the direction.
Just build the model as YOU want it, it is yours and over time things like radars are updated or changed.
Bob
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Ok, so after rechecking the plans sent by myhobby store, i find that the radar unit is totally incorrect. the plans show a single unit, centrally mounted above the forward wheelhouse front panel. After checking the super detailled pictures sent to me by "old dodes", I find she actually had 2 radar units, fitted to the roof panel and more centrally on the roof panel, so my previous comment made above is incorrect, plus I'll have to get a second radar motor. But at least i wont have an issue with getting a vertical drive to the radar heads.
(http://s2.postimage.org/20a8zmezo/IMG_0566.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20a8zmezo/)
Well at least i hadnt fitted a single unit !
Actually I was just printing off some pictures from my picture gallery, so i can use them for reference to detailling the interior of the wheelhouse. And happened to come across the pictures of the roof radars and antennae.
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I have managed to exchange the hombrol pint i had already purchased, Incidentally "hobbyworld" are a nice store to deal with, even without being able to take back my purchase recipt, they exchanged the paint tints without question!
Right. on to business. i am just starting to make up the wheelhouse/bridge desks and fittings, but am a little unsure as to exactly what is in there. From the pictures kindly supplied by "old dodes" i can see a fair amount of the forward desks and controls, but the rear wall of the cabin is unclear. is there an access staircase leading downstairs? is there a settee along the back wall? if so, whereabouts, was it a 2 seater or 3? what went in front of the rear wall 3 large "french" 3 windows?
What was the floor covering/colour?
ive attached the pictures i have to act as an "aide memoir".
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Started on wheelhouse interior fittings. Ive installed the basic "shapes" of the forward desk tops. ive still to add the side walls to them. I have added the mounts for 3 of the monitor screens and also added the screens. the "pc" style monitor i have decided to carve out of a wood block, due to the old shape of the monitor body.
The glazing has been added to the windows. once glue is fully dry [24hrs], I will paint over the inside edges of the glazing to loose the black edge that is visible at present.
I have also put first coat of top coat paint to the wheelhouse, just to gauge colour and coverage, plus i can now also add teh number of "boxes" surrounding the wheelhouse on the upper deck floor.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1qv6glhs4/100_3723.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qv6glhs4/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1qv9ro6ro/100_3725.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qv9ro6ro/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1qvd2qvr8/100_3726.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qvd2qvr8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1qvi1cx8k/100_3727.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qvi1cx8k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1qvlcfm84/100_3728.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qvlcfm84/)
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Greg,
The aft side of the wheelhouse had a bench type seat in blue covering, a bookcase, various fuse boxes and the Nav light switch box.
Old Dodes should be able to be more specific.
Bob
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thanks for that, I was wondering what the tall wooden object was at the far end of the picture of the wheelhouse, now I know.
how long was the bench seat, was it a 2 or 3 seater, im just trying to "gauge" how many of the tall windows it backed up against, to get its correct width across. I presume it did not cover the width of all 3 tall windows and if correct, was there anything in front of the 1st rear window, nearest the door [aft facing].
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Still "progressing" with the wheelhouse/bridge interior today. Ive managed to complete the desks, made up the bookcase as accurately as I can "guess" its dimensions, looking at photo's. Ive added the "blue bench" seat and added the control panels, as well as painting the monitor screens and adding the "viewer screen" to the main desk, by the throttle levers.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2wz7s9uuc/100_3729.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wz7s9uuc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2wzhphxt0/100_3731.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wzhphxt0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2wzuxspr8/100_3730.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wzuxspr8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2x01jy3qc/100_3734.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2x01jy3qc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2x06ik57o/100_3735.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2x06ik57o/)
I just need to find out what the colour of the floor covering is now, to tidy up the interior space.
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Ive recieved a further supply of "square cut" styrene sheets today from "myhobbystore", so can now set about shaping the deck piece and getting the deck cambers set.
I have also started to shape the pieces that form the wheelhouse roof, but untill I know what colour the flooring is, im unable to bond the roof on yet.
I have cut the lifting horn profiles out, as well as sufficient pieces to make up the additional suport pieces at their tips. But have another question.
On the plans sent by myhobbystore, they depict a walkway between the lifting horns. But looking at the photo's kindly sent by "old dodes", this walkway is missing or was it not fitted at all?
On the one hand, i dont want to fit something that should not be there, but if it was originally installed, perhaps I should fit one.
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There was nothing in front of the three tall rear windows, the seat was a two seater, the stairwell was in Pic 577 you can sea the heater bolted in it as per my drawing. Humbrol No7 with 50/50 matt varnish is a good finish. RMAS buff was a light custard colour.
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Many thanks for all the update and messages today "old dodes" they are much appreciated. I will "revise" the bench seat and shorten it, no problem.
I will also omit the lifting horn walkway as "surplus to requirements", afterall, its a working vessel and wish to make it look as authentic as possible.
Ive made up the lifting horns today and will be posting this up shortly. ive added some internal bracing to them, simply for rigidity and will attach once the deck is fully in place. I have also made the cut in the hull for the forward anchor, ready to link up via a plastic tube for thre chain guide to the anchor winch above in on deck.
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Just remembered there was a long low electric heater fitted in front of the rear long windows, because on cold days with the widow glass heater on and the electric heater on I would stand close too or lean on the windows to warm up, the wheel house in winter on a cold day was bloody freezing.
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Right. Now for the twin lifting horns, fitted to the bows of the ship. The original biuld instructions detailled to make a former up first out of resin, then simply bond on plastic card as an outer layer. I opted to make the horns out of flat sheet, adding some internal bracing pieces, before bonding on the other side panel, then simply "rolling" some thinner plastic sheet over the outside to form a better radius around the pulley ends on the tips of the lifting horns.
The side plates were initially reinforced with a double piece of plastic card, to make up the strengthener plates by the pulley ends. Once dry, they were turned over and some 10mm wide plastic card bracing pieces added to give them some rigidity. The second side plate was bonded on and once dry, the outer flat strip was rolled around the entire thing to reinforce the complete item and reduce the number of join lines.
End result? A lifting horn as striong as the original resin filled item, but at a quite substantial weight reduction.
(http://s1.postimage.org/224fom10/100_3744.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/224fom10/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/227qrb0k/100_3745.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/227qrb0k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/22b1u004/100_3746.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/22b1u004/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/22mmlfgk/100_3747.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/22mmlfgk/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/22t8qtfo/100_3748.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/22t8qtfo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/22wjtif8/100_3750.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/22wjtif8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/231ifjwk/100_3751.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/231ifjwk/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/236h1ldw/100_3752.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/236h1ldw/)
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Hi,
If this is the same ship, no lifting horns now.
Taken today at about 1100 at the Serco docks at Greenock.
All the best
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Yes,
She has been converted to a diving tender.
Bob
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many thanks for the update on "where it is now", its always interesting to find these things out, but this is going to be built as it was whilst working as its title name and as originally intended.
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No worries. I was looking for something else, and remembering your thread it was a "hang on, isn't that the ..... " moment.
All the best
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Hi Gregg.
In Pic 578, the first 4 levers and buttons are for the two anchors and two working main wire winch controls, although there was only two actual winches fitted, they had a drum fitted each side with a simple dog clutch operated by hand. The top left hand button panel was for water pumps, fire pump etc. The far right was the azimouth control for the ships propulsion system, which was never used and was filled with dust. As the photos showed all paint work was white which was inside of doors, door frames and window frames. The rest was that light coloured formica with white formica deck head.
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Been doing some more cabinet making in the wheelhouse, revised the length of the bench seat and made it much smaller, its now only a 2 seater. Ive added the convector heater to the stairwell wall. The only thing i have got in the wrong place is the wooden cupboard. the filing cabinet should of sat next to the stairwell wall ,but I glued the other one in first and im going to damage the floor trying to remove one to fit the other, so Ive had to swap places with them. Ah well, A minor discrepancy, but at least Im being honest here !
I have also started work now on the wheelhouse roof. I added the base at the forward end of the roof, ready to accept the units to sit on top of. the 2 radar scanner mount tubes are in place, complete with support braces. I will add the motor boxes once dry, and use these hollow tubes to bring the motor drive shafts up and through to enable the radars to rotate. the electric geared motors sitting under the wheelhouse floor, out of sight and well out of everyones way.
I have now recieved supply of the swivel kort nozzles, so I can now start some progress with the hull too, as ive been filling time working on the wheelhouse, rather than do nothing, but think the extra time has been well spent and there is sufficient details to now ben seen through all the windows of the wheelhouse once fully assembled.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2toir6muc/100_3761.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2toir6muc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2tom29btw/100_3760.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tom29btw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2topdc0tg/100_3757.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2topdc0tg/)
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I see the last of the class the Cameron berthed inside, she was given to Briggs for nought to use as they wish.
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PROBLEM !
Ive just hit one problem, The Propellers I was supplied with are for "fixed kort" design, as they have very "square tipped" blades, Ive tried to align them inside my "swivelling korts" and found that they fould the inside of the korts if you enter more than a 10 degree steering angle.
Ive now spoken to Marks model boat bits and he has confirmed the error of my supplier, so after speaking to my supplier of the korts and propellers, he has accepted to supply the correct style of propeller blade to allow for the swivel angle of the kort nozzles.
Well it was either this or having to attack the square tips of the blades with a grinder and shave the tips off, so rather than risk upsetting the balance of the blades, its easier to replace them with the right ones.
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Following my earlier disaster with the drive train, I am delayed yet again in sorting out the hull interior, so have to do things elswhere "untill such time".
So For the mainmast on the wheelhouse roof. I decided early on that i want to be able to include lights and being as this vessel has a multitude of them. I have to really plan ahead to ensure i can pass cables through places you would not normally run cables.
I used some 6mm square section brass tube, slightly larger than it should be for accurate scale, but need the additional internal space for wiring!
the cross bars are 4mm brass tubing, which I intentionall drilled 2 3mm holes in, close to its centre line, to allow the outer mast light wires to run through and "down" the mainmast. I will be using "led's" so using brass as the main body of the build, I simply solder one leg of the bulb to the mast and reduce al the wiring by half in one easy swoop! [forward planning see]. I added the cross bar support angle pieces in a "one job" item, as after trying petiently to add a small triangle of brass to the underside and not having enough hands to hold solder, brass tag and hot iron, i found it easier to make a complete item, clamp in the middle with some small mole grips and solder to my hearts content.
Yes, i did remember to use 2 different heat ranges of solder, using the hottest first for the main work, then using a lower melting point solder to add the ladder rungs and hoops, so at not stage do i melt one thing off whilst adding another.
The mast access steps/rungs were bent out of 0.8m brass rod and the mast drilled to accept the legs for soldering. the same applies to the safety hops for the ladder, these were pre wound round a suitable mandrel, in my case a small mfa motor casing which happened to be exact diameter of the hoops needed. I then just had to add the vertical link rails and the small aerial array to the top of the mast.
I do now admit to this being my first major work in brass construction. It may not be the neatest or tidyiest you will of seen, but im pleased with the result, as I can only get better with more experience and we all have to start somewhere!
(http://s4.postimage.org/344mk0xt0/100_3762.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/344mk0xt0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/344pv3msk/100_3764.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/344pv3msk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/344t66bs4/100_3765.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/344t66bs4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/344utpo9w/100_3767.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/344utpo9w/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/345yim04k/100_3768.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/345yim04k/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/346065cmc/100_3769.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/346065cmc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/34654re3o/100_3770.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/34654re3o/)
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It looks good to me.
Bob
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Like shipmate60 says it looks good and it looks like the old girl to me, all it needs now is a harris tweed flower pot hat and a pusser raincoat on a miserable old git of a figure, on the the aft outboard steps to the bridge and I will think I am back at work.
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Thanks for the comments guys, I hope you like her "new hat2 then.
Ive finally managed to rig the lights on the mainmast.
i cant wait now to build the other 2 light masts and install. it might be a bit of a drain on the batteries, but I'll fit a 3rd battery if necessary, just for the pose.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1cwqog8ec/100_3771.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1cwqog8ec/)
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Carrying on with the wheelhouse roof lighting, Ive now built up the 2 warning/safe passage marker posts. To save a little on wiring and bulbs, Ive only fitted a pair of operating lamps to each side, as my build will only have a "clear danger" to the one side. As this will be the side the crane will operate on and lift/swing "something" across the deck and over the water.
The "something" is yet to be decided upon. I don't know if to swing a buoy over or the zodiac inflatable boat, as I think eiher would look interesting enough.
Anyway. I started off with the marker posts by making a pattern out of plastic rod, just to get an idea of size and shape, then decided to make from brass tubes, so I can run the cables through, plus be a bit more sturdier once built and resist the odd clout from an accidental hand.
I cross drilled the main upright to inset the side tubes and then, once the solder had chilled sufficiently, I then drilled through the main tube to remove the excess brass & solder internally again to give free running to the cabling. I have again used ordinary "filament" bulbs on these lights, as they give a better widespread angle of illumination, that these lights would need on the full size vessel.
As many readers of my other builds, I do tend to prefer to use "led's" now, but these have limited angle of view, so they will be used for the standard navigation lights, lower down the wheelhouse and maybe for the bulkhead lamps too.
(http://s3.postimage.org/za5l2sqs/100_3772.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/za5l2sqs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/zafiavpg/100_3773.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zafiavpg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/zakgwx6s/100_3774.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zakgwx6s/)
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If it is any help, the most lifted item by the crane was the gemini, to start or finish any job you needed the gemini for virtualy 98% of the jobs she did.
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Well, no one noticed my slight mistake then? i didn't realise untill i went to fold my plans and put them away. id got the red/green hazard lights in the wrong positions ! the green lights supposed to be higher than the reds. needless to say ive now resolved the situation and swapped them round.
"Silly me!"
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Finally managed to dig out the 2 geared motors i had on one side for a twin radar setup. So Ive now fitted these to the bottom of the wheelhouse floor, so just the drive shafts are visible through the windows. then a simple extension shaft takes the drive right up through the roof to the radar head mounts.
(http://s3.postimage.org/27iex6g04/100_3821.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27iex6g04/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/27iqhxvgk/100_3820.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27iqhxvgk/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/27j5drzwk/100_3819.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27j5drzwk/)
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Appologies for delay in update, but ive had some delaying problems with the supplier of the brass propellers. the original ones supplied were for "fixed kort" and not swivel korts, so the square tipped corners of the props were catching the insides of the kort nozzles on turning, so they had to come out, which means my ambition to complete the drivetrain has had to be abandoned untill the new props arrive. the original supplier then promised faithfully to replace the wrong props, but after 3 weeks of waiting I had cancelled my order and wont be dealing with this store again >>:-( <*<, ive changed back to SHG ! O0
Right. Wheelhouse, I have now installed the driveshafts for ther twin radar heads, which now means I can close up the wheelhouse roof and attach to the wheelhouse. I added a piece of plastic tubing in one corner of the wheelhouse in which to run the electrical cables for the mast lights, so to keep them from view as much as possible. O0
I still have the main/standard navigation lights to install, but they wont be sited untill i fit the railings as they seem to be affixed to them, rather than standalone items.
I have also found a most suitable tubular base for the crane. its a piece of plastic tubing, with a threaded nut on the end. So The crane can bond to the head of the nut, the thread allows the crane to swivel freely without being pushed off its mount by the servo's underneath and is adequate in strength and doameter to allow me to run the inner workings up, to operate the crane easily. :-))
(http://s4.postimage.org/18oibx0k/100_3828.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18oibx0k/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/18q5v9ic/100_3827.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18q5v9ic/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/18ws0nhg/100_3832.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18ws0nhg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/191qmoys/100_3834.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/191qmoys/)
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ive now started on the 2 rear winches. especially as these are almost the very heart of thuis vessel, serving 2 purposes from their location at the stern. they operate the 2 rear anchors to help steady the vessel when the other 2 winch drums have their cables fed forward, across the deck, to the 2 big lifting horns on the bows. usually used for lifting sunken marker buoys out of the water for retreival by the hydraulic crane, once at the surface.
I am constructing out of styrene sheet for the majority of their build, the circular drum ends and motor gear casings are shaped and easily cut using a compass cutter, but make sure you use a new blade and change frequently, once you notice the cutting edge dulling off.
(http://s4.postimage.org/mq0v863o/100_3830.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mq0v863o/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/mq94wwkk/100_3831.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mq94wwkk/)
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She is coming along well Greg.
Bob
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Its going well Greg. looks good
Geoff
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Thanks for comments guys. :-))
Well heres an update on the winches. Ive almost finished the one, so continued with the second "mirror image" unit, as looking at the plans, the electric drive motors face each other, towards the centre line of the deck.
I have purchased some brass warping drums from "modeldockyard" as they seemed the most suitable items, sizewise for the ends of the winch brakes.
I have left the centre "throughrod" loose for now, untill I have completed painting the winch asemblies, so i can still remove the winch drums to paint all those nasty to get at areas. O0
i have added the brake band rodss and attachments to the brake bands. I am purposely leaving the handwheels off for now, not untill I have fabricated the removeable deck plats where the winches sit, so i have access to the rudder gear below, without having to stretch at finger tip to reach from the main access hole where the batteries will be sited.
Its amazing on home much forward planning has to be done, in order to maintain free access to certain "wear items" later on. id sooner make removeable panels now, then end up breaking the models back in the future, just to replace a rudder arm or replace a kort nozzle. >>:-(
(http://s4.postimage.org/qm50co9w/100_3836.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qm50co9w/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/qm6nw0ro/100_3837.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qm6nw0ro/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/qm8bfd9g/100_3838.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qm8bfd9g/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/qm9yypr8/100_3839.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qm9yypr8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/qmbmi290/100_3840.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qmbmi290/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/qmda1eqs/100_3841.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qmda1eqs/)
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And Finally !
Now recieved the proper kort propellers! these have rounded tips and are better suited to swivel kort nozzles than the square tipped blades variety as you get more clearance when you apply a larger steering angle to the rudder control.
So, at last I can now install the 2 propshafts, korts and motors.
There will be a slight change in the build log now as I can proceed with the hull again, but untill the motors and shafts are in, I cant finish off installing the hull inner structure to add strength and support to the styrene hul sides, nor put in the deck support beams, which will give the deck its required radius...................... And then, i can add the lower cabin assemblies to the upper works, which i cant build untill I have the correct "deck radius", so the bases sit without silly gaps under them against this curved deck floor.
it sometimes amazes me on how much one silly little item can hold up a load of tasks, then all of a sudden, its like a flood gate opening !
(http://s1.postimage.org/2n5wmfnd0/100_3843.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2n5wmfnd0/)
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I believe the originals had rounded tips. I know once we had a unit stop. We could not find any visual reason and thoughts went to a seized or damaged kort unit, divers could not find a reason, eventually we lifted the whole unit up through the deck and guess what, it was a bit of a pusser issued plastic grey wash bucket jammed between the blade tip and the Kort nozzle. One of the major pluses of these type of drive units, you take the inspection plate of the deck hook a crane into the drive unit and lift it straight out with prop and kort unit, without having to dock the vessel, with other types of drive units it would have been an expensive dry docking.
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I have now installed the drive system and also linked up the kort rudder arms. this has now also allowed me to start on the deck too, so I have made the cuts to the deck below the rear winches, as these give access to the rudder linkages. I have alsp cut out the 2 circular hatch access panels above each rudder post, again giving "service access" to the grub screws, "in the unlikely event of......." so to speak.
the winch apertures had have their raised coaming bonded on, as well as a flat strip on the underside of the deck, just to prevent the winches from being pushed right the way through! the coaming also now adds a better deck support fram to the winches and is a fair secure fit, so the winches wont go flying off across the deck, especially as they are not bonded down, merely held in place by the coaming trim.
For my next trick !
I will be making up the cross deck beams, which will give the deck panel its correct arched radius across the deck , so once I can achieve this, I can then measure up to make the big cutout for the battery access ANd then go for finishing off the lower superstructure cabins, but untill deck radius is complete, this are in line for completion.
(http://s1.postimage.org/6qy9hbno/100_3855.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6qy9hbno/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/6r1kk0n8/100_3857.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6r1kk0n8/)
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(http://s1.postimage.org/6r9u8r44/Copy_of_100_3859.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6r9u8r44/)
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Now that the motors are installed I have now managed to install the stern most deck cross supports, which include their 2radiussed2 tops, giving the rounded appearance to the deck. I have decided to cut the deck in half, placing the join line under the removeable superstructure. ive done this for simplicity, so i can finish off the stern, before moving on the the forward end, where I have yet to complete the workings for the crane gear. The coving around the rear winches is fitted and holds the winches tightly, so they wont fall out in transit. i haver also made a cutout above the motors and universal joints, for routine maintenence purposes, this will be held closed with the use of "inset magnets", so no screws or bolt heads will be visible at all., plus the weight of the superstructure above will help to hold it down.
I will of course be adding some underside bracing beams, to help keep its correct curved shape.
(http://s3.postimage.org/12xp483o/100_3861.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/12xp483o/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/12zcnklg/100_3862.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/12zcnklg/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/13axf01w/100_3864.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/13axf01w/)
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I have given the boat its very first "water tank test", just to see how it looks, plus to check on the scale of ballasting it might need later.
I have a 12v 7amp/hr batter which i am deciding to use and fit centrally in the forward hull, just forward of the superstructure. So with this in the hull, motors and shafts fitted, superstructure on. I only needed to add 3 x sticks of tyre weights [195grammes] on the stern just to level her up slightly, to just keep a slightly bows up stance.
hardly any weight at all.
I did then do a weight test too, setting it carefully on the bathroom scales. At present time of construction, its weighing in at 6lbs and thats with the battery and weights in!
Admittidly it is not fully at its correct waterline depth, but I do prefer to run slightly higher than correct depth, simply due to the possibility of running in rougher/choppy water, id sooner have the deck height a bit further off the surface of the water than the real one, as I have no bilge pump fitted [ha ha].
(http://s4.postimage.org/2kd98w5pg/100_3869.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kd98w5pg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2kdcjyup0/100_3868.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kdcjyup0/)
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(http://s4.postimage.org/2kdj648o4/100_3867.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kdj648o4/)
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I have now managed to put a coat of paint on the stern winch assemblies, so have also added soem cable to the drums. the next job was to construct one of the rear anchor cradles over the stern rail.
the basic frame ive made from 1.5mm brass rod, purely for added strength, so any other boat "accidentally ramming" the stern, wont cause damage to mine!. I also soldered on some small brass nuts to the rods, to act as a "stop" as the rods pass through the hull stern, so they wont get pushed all the way through and also have a better surface area now for the epoxy to bond to.
Ive made the anchors up out of styrene strip and glued together. i was going to construct out of brass sheet, but plastic is cheaper and easier to join AND replace if lost !
(http://s2.postimage.org/1xic04bc4/100_3871.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xic04bc4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1xidnnntw/100_3873.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xidnnntw/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1xigyqctg/100_3874.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xigyqctg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1xik9t1t0/100_3875.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xik9t1t0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1xinkvqsk/100_3878c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xinkvqsk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1xisjhs9w/100_3879c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xisjhs9w/)
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Just to let you know, apart from rare special occaisions, the only anchor rigged was the port one, a three ton pancake clump was rigged all the time on the starboard side. This was to allow the moorhen to anchor within mooring complexs without the danger of fouling a bottom mooring system.
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Thanks for that, I'll try to remember it. Did they retain/stow the other "proper anchor" on board whilst the concrete lump was being used, or was it left ashore?
Ive just recieved delivery of some plastruct "I" beam, so can start forming the girderwork for the stern lifeboat mounting. I have some alloy mesh which should do for the actual flooring, then need to make the crane and railings to go around. I will also make this assembly removeable, so not to loose access to the rudder post below main deck, below the winch assembly, which ive made to lift out of its floor cradle lip.
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Ive begun construction of the lifeboat platform on the stern of the vessel. After checking numerous photos to ascertain the platforms rough size and shape, I first made a paper template to check against the actual model before cutting anything out. I made the framework out of plastruct "I" beam, as this is what the original apprear to of been constructed from, plus it makes a sturday item, once the glue has dried on the beams. I have also split and "sleeved" the 3 side vertical support beams and placed a peg on the deck floor for the inner support leg. These splits and pegs allow me to remove the platform, to then lift off the winch below and still gain access to the rudder arm below deck.
I have also positioned and glued on the support post for the lifeboat lifting crane at this stage, being as I can get to bond it fully to the plastic beams, before the alloy floor mesh is bonded on and the brass uprights are fitted in for the railings, just to finish it off. I have alos now made the engine exhausts and fitted, as well as starting to construct the lower cabin side walls, which will have the doors and other fittings attached later.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z01g4bpg/100_3891.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z01g4bpg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z06eqd6s/100_3893.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z06eqd6s/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z09pt26c/100_3894.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z09pt26c/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z0eof3no/100_3895.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z0eof3no/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z0lakhms/100_3898.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z0lakhms/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z0oln6mc/100_3901.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z0oln6mc/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2z0q96j44/100_3902.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2z0q96j44/)
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Hi Gregg,
The starboard anchor was almost permanently left on the jetty, in fact we lost it once for a long time. The clump was a cast steel clump, not concrete. For interest concrete clumps where banned in mooring practice in the early 80's and then they where old ones left over from the war. The problem was that they lost over 40% of there weight in water due to air bubbles trapped in the concrete mass, plus the securing clasps in the concrete had a tendency to pull out when underload, if a 5/6 ton clump went this could easily cause a serious accident with lifting wires jumping suddenly when the strain is relieved suddenly.
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Hi Gregg,
The question I have will you be at Wicksteed this year with this model, I really do want to see it.
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thanks for the comments, all info is always greatly appreciated as it helps me to understand all the vessels equipment and its operation.
to answer you main question, sorry but no, I own't be at the mayhem show. The build is less than a quarter started, so not really much to show yet. Admittidly there is quite a fair bit of detailling going in to the build, but thats how it should be. id sooner the boat be completely finished, or at least finished but ready for paint before it goes to any show.
Dont worry, you'll see all the details, as its going on and progressing. Maybe next years show, but depends on my job work pattern if Im not working bank holiday or not, but its usually one of my main working weekends due to it being a bank holiday. I work as a motorsport scrutineer on weekends, so get called out a fair bit, so other selfish people can go motor racing! [ha ha]
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Nice to see all this scratch building going on, very inspirational! Now I just need to move off the diningroom table so Im not 'in the bloody way' all the time!
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To be perfectly honest, im really enjoying the build. having to do a lot of scratchbuilding makes it an interesting challenge. the original detailled build in model boats magazine hardly covered the full build and left a lot of things off their version. This rear lifeboat deck for example is a very visual piece, let alone all the roller fairleads for the main winches, or winch control panels that were completely omitted, let alone mentioned.
but having such superb photo's to work from and from such a kind and generous forum member [Old Dodes], this build would not be as good as it is, its only with his generosity of sending me copies of all the actual boat pictures he has, plus his memory for details, that helps me along the way it is going.
My Sun Tug build went a similar way, I had 2 ex sailors who kindly and patiently helped me with details on that one, even though I did actually build a slightly later version that the ones they actually worked aboard.[ see Sun Tug build - in tugs section for pics].
I dont know if I will ever be so lucky again to decide on a build and find someone else that previously worked or sailed onboard, but wont touch on that subject yet, this one is hardly started, theres loads more to do and construct yet!
I have been out today at the Commercial motor Show in birmingham, so not much progress, apart from finishing off all the girderwork for the lifebaot platform. and have now also cut out a piece of ally mesh to act as the floor panel. this will be painted a medium grey colour, once it has been bonded to the frame. I have saved time by making the frame in white styrene I beam, so it can stay as it is, as it is white in colour on the actual vessel. the staining will come later, once I get on to the "wear stains" and " rust water marks" once it is all finished.
(http://s3.postimage.org/30lqofdhg/100_3907.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/30lqofdhg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/30lsbypz8/100_3904.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/30lsbypz8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/30lvn1eys/100_3906.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/30lvn1eys/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/30lxakrgk/100_3905_C.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/30lxakrgk/)
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I have now cut and attached the alloy mesh to the lifeboat deck, after using the paper template I used originally as the baseboard template to cut all the I beams for the raised platform. I bonded this on using superglue and plenty of spring clips to ensure it settled down nice and flat.
Once the glue was dry I have given the mesh a light coat of matt dark grey to simulate the weatherewd appearance of galvanised grid mesh, seems to look ok, but further weathering will be applied later once fully complete.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1rr42fbqc/100_3909.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1rr42fbqc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1rr5pyo84/100_3908c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1rr5pyo84/)
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(http://s4.postimage.org/1rr911d7o/100_3911c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1rr911d7o/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1rrcc4278/100_3912c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1rrcc4278/)
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Appologies for the delay in update, but I suffered a sprained thumb a week ago and working at such fine scale has been delayed untill I had better use in my thumb for handling a knife blade.
I have started work on the lower deck cabins now and have progressed well with the Starboard side unit. All doors and panels are on, along with the handrail & mounts. I am leaving the fire hydrant pipework untill later. The forward panel radius was formed by using a piece of 10mm doameter plastic tube, mounted vertically and then the side panels abutted to it, with the edge filled with modellers putty and sanded flat once dry.
I will now construct the forward door canopy cover, whilst the first coat of paint is drying [not shown on pics yet], knowing how I like to still keep building whilst one thing is drying and keep things going.
I have also constructed the forward wheelhouse boxes and battery case. these are made from white plasticard, so once on, they will only need a single coat of paint to finish, the reverse sides wont matter, being white to start with.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2edc79zlw/100_3918c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2edc79zlw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2edficolg/100_3919c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2edficolg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2edkgyq2s/100_3920c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2edkgyq2s/)
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I am starting to recognise her now, lovely work.
Ex Engineer of her.
Bob
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Hi Bob, many thanks for the compliment. its taking some time to get things sorted out on the build, as the myhobbystore plans only cover so much and the remainder im having to fully scratchbuild from the photo's kindly supplied by Old Dodes, who also sailed on the vessel too.
But if you do have any comment or suggestion or any further photo's of her, please feel free to put your "ten penneth" in as well, it all helps to make a build go better, as id sooner it be right now, rather than complete it and someone points out a serious flaw afterwards.
I appreciate that one of the main things that can throw you off kilter at the moment is the colour of the main deck, but untill I have completed all the deck mounted kit, its not worth giving it a coat or dark rust to simulate the work and rust covered area yet, so things look a bit on the bright side, along with the superstructure paintwork, yes, its bright and shiny, but once complete and given a caot of satin clear varnish, it will tone things down a bit. but it has to be built "as new" then aged accordingly afterwards, including trying to simulate the odd panel dent or dink in places.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2kbn9bzb8/100_3922c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kbn9bzb8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2kbqkeoas/100_3923c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kbqkeoas/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2kbs7y0sk/100_3924c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kbs7y0sk/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2kbx6k29w/100_3925c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kbx6k29w/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2kbyu3ero/100_3926c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kbyu3ero/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2kc0hmr9g/100_3927c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2kc0hmr9g/)
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Greg,
The Main Deck was painted gloss green, but never lasted more than a few days as the chain used to remove the paint, so generally rust and mud.
Old Dodes was the skipper on her when I was there, we sailed on several ships together.
Bob
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Yes, ive seen the few remains of the green paint of the deck, mostly tucked away in distant corners where no chain or welly can get at it [ha ha].
I will probably give the deck area a base paint of green to start with, and then go right on ahead with the rust brown "heavy wash" to get it coloured right.
but for now, plenty to do under the main superstructure, assembling doors, pipes and hinges & handles. I have got the rest of the port side doors fitted, along with replica panel of the small mesh grille on the forward end. I will attach the hinged/opened watertight door to it once have run the handrail through its mountings and painted the panel behind it first. I have also now added the door and panel cover to the front face of the port side unit, under the liferaft platform. I am yet to add the edge trim to the platform to "beef" it up a bit. ALL the hinges and handles are yet to go on, so the doors do look a bit bare as yet.
I am in a quandry about the liferafts, I dont know if to purchase a resin kit and mould my own, being as I need so many, plus have not really found any suitably sized items that would be a straigh fit for this vessel. I can soon knock out a pattern from a piece of wooden dowel, but dont really want to have to create them all in wood, not having a lathe makes wood turning a "no chancer".
(http://s4.postimage.org/jftmn2p0/100_3928c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jftmn2p0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/jfwxprok/100_3929c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jfwxprok/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/jg08sgo4/100_3930c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jg08sgo4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/jg57ei5g/100_3932.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jg57ei5g/)
* Sorry about the wiring hanging down in the pics, but you all know what electricians are like ! *
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Deck edge.
i have been studying the deck working edge, trying to decide upon the best thing to recreate it with. the deck side edge is rounded in profile, to allow easy run of all cables and chains, brought over the side. I did originally decide to insert a piece of wooden dowel, in a "QUARTER ROUND" profile, but after cutting the deck edge with a dremel cutter, I looked at the gap again and thought "silly "xxxxx""! Why dont you use some plastic tube? Its virtually same material as the hull and deck, so I can use poly glue to bond it in, with no fear of the glue bond failing and letting water in if id of used wooden dowel and plastic hull scenario.
So I initially cut the deck edge in 2 pieces, using a short length of copper car brake pipe to act as reinforcement in the angled joint, as the pipe bends easily to the shape you want and retains it. I firstly glued the pipe in place with some liquid weld glue, as this melts the plastic, this creating a good bond. Once this was dry, I followed with a seam of humbrol poly cement, just to fill in the gaps the liquid weld was unable to do.
then once all dry, I have applied some model filler to finish off the deck edge, this will be sanded once fully dry. the wooden side protection panel has also been started,[ whilst waiting for areas of glue to dry]. To ease the problem of bonding all the seperate wooden planks to the hull side, I first cut a piece of plasticard to same size and roughed both sides with some 400 grit paper. I applied a layer of epoxy glue to one side and laid all the precut plank lenghts on to the bed of glue. This is then left to dry overnight before giving it a light sanding to flatten off some of the high planks and also excess glue. This being plastic "backed" is easy peasy to then glue to the hull side later.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1vldou78/100_3937.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1vldou78/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1vqcavok/100_3936.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1vqcavok/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1vrzu86c/100_3941c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1vrzu86c/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1vvawx5w/100_3942c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1vvawx5w/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1w1x2b50/100_3944.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1w1x2b50/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1w58504k/100_3943c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1w58504k/)
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Hi Gregg, just for info, we carried a small rib aft as a saftey boat. But always forward we carried a standard gemimi inflatable boat for work purposes.
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Hi Gregg, apart from the wood cladding on the starboard side, the top of the hull was protected by rubber moulding all round except for the area between the horns, there was no protection there. Instead the round of the apron protruded over the vertical of the hull platting, the Moorfowl was different in that she had rubber cladding covering the complete area of the hull under the apron.
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I presume the additional lifeboat you are on about is the one under the bright orange cover in your pictures. Ive simply been placing the other boat on the rear boat deck as a template to check for sizing of the platform.
Was there a rubber buffer strip running around the hull sidea as well as the rounded one on the edge of the deck sides? My plans "seem" to suggest something was there, but its not very clear as to its profile, So I cant tell if its half round, flat or square shaped [or "if at all"].
Ive had to "sectionalise" the deck plating as much as I have, purely to allow me access to the underside of the crane mount, in preperation of adding the" lift" and "swing" servos, with which im hoping to gain some r/c control over the crane without going over the top, especially as I prefer to limit my fingers in to operating a 6 channel radio, nothing more complicated! I also have a dusseldorf fireboats and thats recommended to run with a 14 channel syste, but I cope with that on 6 and that does all i want.
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I have now finished off the deck edge protector strip,adding some model filler along its seams to ensure its rounded profile and to seal all the edges at the same time. it has all ben finished off with some 800 grit, wet sanded. The wooden hull side protector has now also dried after 2 coats of wood stain, a light sanding and a further coat of stain to add a deeper colour and also to seal off any bare wood after sanding. This was bonded to the side of the hull with normal poly cement [being as I had already glues to wood to a piece of styrene sheet], It was duly clamped and the glue allowed to dry off. I have also added some "battle scars" to the deck edge protector, simply done with a small grinding bit in a dremmel, just to replicate the useage of cables and chains running over the edge, they're bound to leave their marks !
(http://s4.postimage.org/1lv8og5t0/100_3955c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1lv8og5t0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1lvgy4w9w/100_3956c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1lvgy4w9w/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1lvu6fo84/100_3958c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1lvu6fo84/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1lw43nr6s/100_3959c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1lw43nr6s/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1lww7snl0/100_3957c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1lww7snl0/)
* Deck wear added with a dremel* - yes on purpose!
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Its amazing what can be done on a dull/overcast days, thats not worth going out and about in [ha ha].
Whilst waiting for the glue and paint to dry at the front end bit, Ive made the stern bulwark rail support legs and installed these along with the lower ladder section for the wheelhouse access. Simple bits of stuff I know, but do add to the detail!
(http://s4.postimage.org/1pw84jgbo/100_3964c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1pw84jgbo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1pwd35ht0/100_3965c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1pwd35ht0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1pwi1rjac/100_3966c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1pwi1rjac/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1pwva2b8k/100_3967c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1pwva2b8k/)
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Whilst continuing with the door detail on the "alleyway" area, I have finally set the crane base in to position. i have chosen a plastic water connection, complete with a threaded cap end fitting, as this will give me the "swivel ring" needed to rotate the crane without going in to a complex construction of a component myself. I have simply screwed the cap down to the base of the thread and backed off, half a turn, thus ensuring sufficient thread to hold the cap on,but allowing me to rotate at least 180 degrees with the servo control. using this method of rotation will also hopefully allow me to use my own method for raising the job, but more on that once in operation and beyond the "in head design stage".
I have also bonded in 4 hull braces to help support the battery baseplate, once these have dried fully, i will attach the base and the battery side supports, to help prevent the battery from slipping out of position and altering the "ballast" of the vessel!
(http://s2.postimage.org/y33q4eec/100_3968c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y33q4eec/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/y3favtus/100_3969c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y3favtus/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/y3sj6lt0/100_3970c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y3sj6lt0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/y42georo/100_3971c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y42georo/)
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Managed to fit all the hinges and handle bases to the alleyway doors today, so they have now been painted in their base colours. I have not yet fitted any actual handles, still deciding if to bend some fine brass wire to replicate them or to leave off, due to their frailty and potential for being brushed off during dusting.
I have also painted the inner side of the stern bulwarks, plus noticed that the original plans supplied by myhobbystore were incorrect in another matter. The positions of the winch brake handles are opposite to what they should be, looking at the winch drum rotations, it would put the operator on the "live" side of the drum when applying the brake. So I have had to remove the brake handle mechanisms, so i can reverse their positions and refit accordingly.
(http://s3.postimage.org/fq3a6hz8/100_3972.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fq3a6hz8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/fq4xpuh0/100_3973.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fq4xpuh0/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/fq9wbvyc/100_3977.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fq9wbvyc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/fqd7ekxw/100_3978.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fqd7ekxw/)
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I have applied a bit of colour to the stern deck area, this is simply to check the colour and its coverage, as there will still be a good wash over of rust/wear to be applied yet, but it has to start off "as new" first, sio am assured the green base will still be left in the "non wear/worn" areas of the deck.
for those eagle eyed amonst my viewers, yes, you will notice she is carrying a pair of anchors and not a single anchor and the other being a steel ballast block. Ive tried it with a round "lump", but looks so out of place, So will juist use that block for the bow anchor for now.
not unless this is going to start a riot and pressure from here crew forces the issue to replace the anchor with the steel lump............................?
(http://s2.postimage.org/1gxec3lr8/100_3980.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gxec3lr8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1gxjapn8k/100_3981.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gxjapn8k/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1gxky8zqc/100_3982.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1gxky8zqc/)
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Greg only ex-crew members would know about the anchors and one or two I think you are making a great model
Geoff
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Greg,
Not from me she is looking superb.
Bob (Ex Crew)
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Thanks for the comments and, er "assurance" guys, it is appreciated. id simply hate to build the vessel so far and then, for only my own mistake, completely ruin it for the sake of a simple item ive overlooked.
Todays little project has been to create, er sorry, "construct" the roller fairleads , all 6 in total. these were measured up off the plans and the outer casings made from 1.5mm plasticard, so at least the casings should look "beefy" enough to withstand a cable load run through them. The rollers are simply measured lengths of hollow plastic rod, with some smaller silid plastic rod, run through them to act as the pivot bars.
i assembled the frames first, then allowed for the glue to dry fully before threading the rollers in to place, carefully dabbing some glue on the tips of the inner plastic rod, to still allow the rollers to rotate, as they would in real life.
I have now begun their painting, covering them completely in matt black, before adding some "wear marks" to the rollers before setting them in place on the deck. I am adding this wear detailling to these items as once glued to teh deck, I wont have full access to get the paintbrush in later.
the 4 "forward" mounted assemblies have additional angled support metalwaork to the rear faces, so these have been added in plasticard, of same thickness, the stern pair were made up of simple box construction, so the sit against the bulwark cleanly and dont have the extra back supports, the bulwark support brackets do that job as well.
(http://s3.postimage.org/16ucjuoas/100_3983.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/16ucjuoas/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/16uhigps4/100_3984.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/16uhigps4/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/16uy1u6pw/100_3989.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/16uy1u6pw/)
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The black base paint coat is now complete on the roller fairleads now, so just as a "trial" heres a couple of pics of one of them, in situ, along with a white metal bollard set. the roller sets are yet to be "aged", so lacking their working state as yet, but thats soon to follow.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1satg86h0/100_3995c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1satg86h0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1sav3riys/100_3996c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1sav3riys/)
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I have made an attempt at constructing the main winch roller assemblies and also the main winch stern control console, all of which are from photographs, as no real measurements available off the original plans supplied. So bit of artistic license here Im afraid, but they seem to represent the real thing sure enough. Obviously, once painted, they will blend in a lot better, so now you can see why i deliberately left a section of the stern deck in unpainted white plastic now. its so i can glue the control panel down, without having to scrape paint off !
All the roller assemblies and control panel are yet again flat plasticard and plastic tube, using solid rod as pivots again for the rollers, so yes, they still do rotate!.
(http://s3.postimage.org/1riz9v0qs/100_3999.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1riz9v0qs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/1rj2kxpqc/100_4000.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1rj2kxpqc/)
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I love this vessel im sure i took a picture of it in the solent last weekend
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Thanks for comment, but don't forget, this actual vessel has recently had the bow lifting horns removed as it is just a diving support vessel. I am unsure if its sister ship [Moorfowl] still has the lifting horns intact. But if you do have pictures, please feel free to attach them, they all help with my build.
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Moorfowl has had the same conversion and is now based in Kyle of Lochalsh (NW Scotland) with Moorhen.
Bob
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i will put the photos on here this evening the one i have is very similar but it was too far out in the solent to get a name
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This is the vessel i took a picture off its similar to moorhen but i do not know the name (http://i319.photobucket.com/albums/mm447/j22mdr/DSC01296.jpg)
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That is a "Sal" Class Mooring Vessel.
We had 3,
Salmoor, based in Greenock.
Salmaid, based in Plymouth.
Salmaster, based in Rosyth.
Salmaster was sold off and Serco now operate Salmoor as a mooring vessel, Salmaid for trials etc and both are based in Greenock.
Bob
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Bob was just about to say Sal Class and look a numpty when I saw your post.
Geoff
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Cheers Bob would this of been the one from plymouth do you think
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Being honest the pic isn't clear enough to show the differences which was to the ships boats and davits.
Was that pic taken off Ryde, IOW.
Depending on the age of the pic it could be either Salmoor or Salmaid.
As she has the red funnel of Serco I would assume that this one is Salmoor as she was the only one left.
Old Dodes might know as he was the skipper of Salmaid. (I was chief Engineer on both!!)
Bob
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This picture was taken last saturday evening near the hover terminal southsea
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Think that was Salmoor she was due in Pompey for a few days.
Bob
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Not had chance to do much build today, had to go out and earn some money in a thing called "work" !
So, now the stern winch control panel has dried, ive painted underneath its legs to complete the deck base paint. Ive also formed the front anchor winch base, trying as far as possible to get the base "level" so to speak. I have not glued this down as yet, i want to fit the winch drum and windlass to it first.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2h9at1sqs/100_4011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2h9at1sqs/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2h9cgl58k/100_4017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2h9cgl58k/)
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Do u mind me asking what mag this boat was in and like the issue number looks good so far :)
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Darren, myhobbystore.com do a material pack and a hull, HULMM1467
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And if you ask nicely Old Dodes has a CD Rom full of pics of her!!!!
Bob
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Oh that's good I will let my father no after 20 years of not building boats this build has taken my fathers fancy
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Well if you're father needs any assistance in his own build, please feel free to contatc me too. But what ever you do, get the vac formed hull prepped first, as the sides are well out of shape and need to be reshaped to get more "vertical " on the sides before you do anything. Same goes if you order the Styrene kit to go with it, to build the rest of the vessel. myhobbystores sub contractor supplier loves to cut all the styrene "free hand", so you dont get a single straigth edge to any of them, so you are forced to loose a certain amount of plastic in cutting your own straigth edge before you mark out a single item.
The "basic plans" supplied from same company are "quite different" from the actuual vessel too, so you MUST keep an eye on the plans, but cross reference with the images BEFORE you do anything, trust me. I have had more than several occaisions of following the plans, then after looking at the images as the glue dries, found Ive had to "move" items as some things are missing off the plans, like all the ventilators for example. I bonded on all the forward deck bollards, alongside the roller fairleads, "as per plans", only to find after looking at the pictures, there are some ventilator pipes sitting inbetween the bow bollards, so had to relocate them before the expoy took hold.
ALL the guys who have inputted to this actual build thread have been so very helpful and I can't thank them enough for all their assistance, even so far, yet to completion. She's still a way off yet, but movin' on nicely i have to say myyself. I am enjoying every minute of it, but you do need a good strong imagination to see "beyond" the printed plans, as see "in to" the pictures, to fill in a few odd gaps.
Anyways, on with todays playtime.
I have made the forward capstan and gypsy post , in one go out of a piece of wooden dowel. I was going to try and do similar out of plastic, but just could not do it without it breaking, so piece of dowel in a drill chuck and away with a knife and file. It seems to of shaped up ok, so has been bonded in place, along with the tubular chain guide for the anchor chain.
I have also made the forward samson post plate, complete with "siezed samson post", yeah, the one thats always seem "upright" in all the images [ha ha]. I have given it all a base coat of deck green, ready to rust streak later.
There is a bit of equipment sitting just forward of the rear main winches, I can only presume this is a form of "load sensor" for the winch cables when hauled forward and over the lifting horns. The images I have only show glimpses of the item, so I may have to do a bit of guess work to actually create a replica item. If any of you do have any pictures of this bit of kit, it would be appreciated, but there appears to have a pivot arm with a counter balance on one end and a cable guide on the other.. As a clue, kindly look at the last image on this particular post please guys....
(http://s2.postimage.org/36toqkauc/100_4019c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/36toqkauc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/36ts1mztw/100_4023c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/36ts1mztw/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/36ttp6cbo/100_4024c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/36ttp6cbo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/36tvcpotg/100_4025c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/36tvcpotg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2aa3vo/load_sensor.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2aa3vo/)
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I have fitted the portholes today in the main superstructure side walls. rather than purchase brass items [at a cost] I have made my own plastic ones, Ok so not brilliant, but once cleaned up and painted, they will suffice.
To create plastic versions i first mark the positions of the portholes and drill a small pilot hole to use for location.
I then use a compass to mark out the portholes on some plasticard and cut out with either a new blade or scissors.
using the compass mark as a centre I then drill a pilot hole using same drill as used on the hull sides.
Place the plastic "disc" on the pilot drill, apply some glue and use the pilot drill as a location peg, press firmly the disc against the hull side, then retract the drill bit.
leave glue to fully dry.
The using increasingly larger drills, or if very careful, a "conical cutter or reamer", drill out the centre of the plastic disc to the thickness of the porthole surround you require.
job done, alls that is left once the outside is painted, is to place some clear plastic on the inside to act as the glazing
.
(http://s3.postimage.org/35juk6r9g/100_4027c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35juk6r9g/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/35kg269ok/100_4033c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35kg269ok/)
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Time for a major painting experience. todays task has been to put the base coat on the hull. I have fully coated the hull in "red oxide primer". this has had two "good" coats, with a sanding in between coats. Once fully dry, probably 2 days, I can then mask off the waterline and add the upper black side section, but at least if the paint gets damaged, it shows "red oxide" underneath, so again looks more realistic.
I have also used the residue off the paint brush to start a bit of "weathering" on one of the deck removeable panels, painting over the "deck green" with "dry brush" method, jsut to start ageing the deck and see what the effect is like, before I use it on the other sections, but unless you try, you dont know.
ive still not had a reply yet on the "deck component" in question, a couple of posts ago. If anyone does have any info on it or can shed some more light on what it actually is, so I know and understand what I am actually trying to construct, It will be most useful...
(http://s4.postimage.org/1f3mi46n8/100_4035.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1f3mi46n8/)
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The component in front of the winches?
Bob
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Yes, it sits between the winches and the roller fairleads, looks about 3ft high, 2ft wide, quite a lightweight looking frame, a bit like a clothes airer, with an arm passing through it with a counterweight on one end and a sort of "cable over clamp" on the other, presume it clamps over the cable as it runs forward to the lifting horns, but merely guessing here.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fcedrgys/IMG_0540.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fcedrgys/)
this picture shows the, er "device" at bottom centre of the image, with one of the winches above/behind it.
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Greg,
That is the Load Cell.
It was a retro fit to enable the strain on the wires to me measured.
It is just an angle iron frame with the wire passing through.
As the strain increases the wire straightens out so can be calibrated to show the actual "pull" being exerted by the winch.
Bob
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AH Ha !
Thanks Bob for the info, now I know what I'm looking at. I will make the "load sense arm" pivoting. Incidentally, when not in use, were these lifting cables run right back to the winch dr, or were they left just back forward of the main roller fairleads, forward of this load cell?
Its just I was thinking to make it look a bit more realistic, and make sense of all the bits of kit on the deck, to run the winch cables through to just past the rollers and leave on the deck "ready for use". yes I appreciate its "trip hazard", but looking at some of the pictures, there was more worse things laying around you could fall over [ha ha].
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The mains were run close to the load cell.
Bob
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Now that the hull's base colour has dried fully, its time to place the masking line on to apply the upper black section. I find the tamaya lining tape very good and limits paint "bleed" under the tape to a real minimum [if at all]. I coated the black sections with "semi gloss" paint to keep the sheen to a minimum. A second coat was applied after waiting sufficient time for the first to dry fully.
The next task was to apply the white line around the hull sides, I wanted to do this whilst the black was not fully dry, so it adheres better. I had to be careful with the masking tape doing it this way, but i find such thin lines always stick better to "tacky" paint. I was reluctant to use a white stripe version, as these can often loose their grip once immersed in water in a boat pool. Funny how they seem to stick so well to the side of a car though............
(http://s2.postimage.org/z6kdcy78/100_4038.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z6kdcy78/)
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Getting close to the finishing line now Greg and looking very good
Geoff
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I wish it was close to finishing !
I am yet to complete the upper superstructure, the deck crane is yet to be r/c'd and there is only the bare motors installed in the hull yet.
I am building this in a rather unauthordox manner basically due to the fact i have little spare cash to buy all the bits i need to build it from the hull up, So as and when i can afford things, i do what i can.
this also account for the "make everything possible" scheme of things. its great experience, dont get me wrong, having to create as much as i am doing. It also means I can spend more time in detailling things, especially as im making them up from scatch.
but as things stand at present, I start a new job very soon, so once I get my first monthly payment, i can go on a spending spree and get the toys this vessel urgently needs.
2 x esc's
1 x bow thruster
1 x engine sound generator
2x batteries [may be going twin 6v units- change on the single 12v job for better weigth balance].
I do have all the bits i need to build up the r/c crane, have a few ideas swirling aroind my head on how to operate it, so will see soon how that actually plans out, but all will be revealed on here, no worries.
I have some terriffic support of some genuine guys who have worked this vessel and im not going to let them or anyone who is reading this build thread down ! [Finger crossed ].
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Hi Gregg,
Regarding the lifting main wires, the end was always left forward of the guide rollers, because they had a large solid joining connector sweat-ed onto the end for lifting shackles to secure to. Also the mains where often left on deck where they where discconnected because they where so very heavy.
Also Bob, I was on the Salmoor and Salmaid, for a few years too. The Salmoor was the best one she had 12mm shell and corresponding size of frames, good boat in a seaway and better handling. The other two had their scantlings halved by the builder as the yard was going bankrupt, so they had problems with vibration, cracking plates and where allot more lively in a seaway and damaged a hell of allot more easier as well, Salmaid had 6mm plate.
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WELL ! GUESS WHAT ?
ive just spotted a big BOO BOO ive made !
AARRGGHH !
I was just about to run the firemain pipe around the underside of the superstructure and then run up verticaly behind the wheelhouse and eh? there was no step in the sidewall. OOOOOPS
So fortunately, being plasticard, a gentle bit of knife cutting has removed the offending side panel, simply cut offf the excess end panel, turn it around and upside down and re insert again. the side cabin is correct width, the step is now visible from the side elevation and end view.
And no one spotted it?
Ive seen it, and was not going to let it lie, so bit brutal I know, but better now that after fully fitted out.
I presume that the reason behind myhobbystore opting for this version was simply "costs". its cheaper to produce a hull for the Moorhen, that her larger/longer cousins, that would of put the price up.
Mind you I dare say it should be possible, to convert the Moorhen hull, by sleeving in some additional length and possible width if need be.
perhaps that could be on the wish list for a later scratchbuild...........
(http://s4.postimage.org/1yduzktd0/100_4042.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1yduzktd0/)
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Problem sorted, Ive put its first coat of paint on the modified area now, so looking as she should be again.
But Like i said earlier, this blog includes everything, "warts n all".
I could of simply carried out the mofification and said nothing in the build thread, it would of then been only the keen eyed persons checking out the pictures that would of noticed the "change" so to speak.
no ones perfect, and I'm far from perfect, just a keen amateur boat modeller!
(http://s2.postimage.org/187ycw3z8/100_4046.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/187ycw3z8/)
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No details on the boat today, my garden bekoned me to do some weeding! hopefully should get some more work done on her shortly.
I have ordered some, er "components" for the crane mechanism. I think I may of found a suitable operating system to allow me to rotate and raise/lower the boom.
more to follow, not giving away too much yet, not untill its up and working !
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ok, Ok, so I just couldn't leave it alone [ha ha]. Simply could not sit and look at it all night without doing something, so had a search through my lettering sheets, and found some of suitable size the the hull sides. I originally purchased them for my Dusseldorf fireboat, but plenty of spare letters left on the sheet to cover this one too.
I will leave then to set for 24hrs, then cover with a clear laquer coat to seal them to the hull paintwork.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2difc4r6s/100_4049.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2difc4r6s/)
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So glad that someone else changes details that 'nag'
I have just had to throw out several lockers and engine air intakes on Ararat after getting details of what they should look like. >>:-( <:(
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Yep, Once I had seen the "error", I "knew it was there" and there is no disguising the fact, because you never know if everyone that looks at it once finished, can see the fault, but is too polite to say anything to upset or offend. but id sooner know and get it sorted whilst there is still chance to do something about it.
At least then, it makes for a much better and more accurate representation of the real thing, rather than just someones own interpretation of it.
I do admit I should study the info I have more carefully, as i tend to strike upon a particular area of the build and then attack that piece with vigor to completion of that stage, but being as so much of the build is "scratch" i have little choice as its not like building a kit version, where you can skip stages and just look at another image in the instruction book and then pick the numbered parts from a sprue or bag of buits. There is no instruction book for this, yes, ok there is the original build details from the magazine, but that build is far far from the original version and as said earlier, a simulation from soneone elses eye.
Ah well, onwards n upwards as they say !
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Todays little teaser has been to shape and insert the fire hydrant pipework. I decided to use some solid plastic rod [3.2mm] as I knew this would be better when using a heat source to help put the appropriate bends in to the pipe. I used some thin" slices" taken from some plastic tube to replicate the flange joints and plasticard, with a hole drilled through it to form the mounting brackets to hold the pipe to the side walls.
Once the pipes were finally checked for shape, the flange collars were added and the pipe brackets strung along the pipe, then the rear faces of all the pipes was painted, before setting in place against the already painted side walls, so less risk of putting red paint on the pre painted panels later.
Once the glue had dried on the brackets I completed the painting of the fire hydrant pipe. I just have the end joints and control valves to assemble and fit in place.
(http://s1.postimage.org/273ks9czo/100_4063c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/273ks9czo/)
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Todays little project has been to add the steps on to the forward/bow lifting horns. As per the pictures and drawings, these are open sided, so plenty of painting to do later, trying to cover all these angles.
I first marked out the step positions on the lifting horn upper surfaces, to act as a guide for placement. I then cut sufficient "treads and risers" for want of terminology, why not use a carpenters one for a change, but it identifies the bits well. The risers are the vertical bits and the treads are what you would normally tread or "step" on. Remember, the risers are shorter in height than the treads are in length, so dotn cut them all the same length. these worked out at 4mm risers and 7mm treads.
I started at the bottom step on the lifting horn, then gradually worked my way up to the top.
I found that if you placed the first riser in place with some glue, then run a little glue along its top edge, to attach the edge of the "tread", as the tread then falls to the lifting horn ,you simply dot a bit of glue down on its touching edge, then you can add the next riser pressed up against the edge of the tread you have just put in.
it sounds more difficult in words that the actual process, but works well and you soon run up top the top with ease.
Whilst this was all drying, I then cut the stair lower joining pieces to the deck, glued these in place then reversed the process of step building and ran from the first step I had put on, downwards to the deck level.
The final items to add were the safety wall/barrier sections these being flat sections of plasticard, with an angled section towards the rear and a radiussed corner edge at the top/back.
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Just got back from our model boat club monthly meeting, so back to work!
the steps have fully dried now, so applied a coat of black paint to them, starting off doing all the undersides of the treads and backs of the risers, especially as the majority of them, you can clearly "see through" from the side views, so can't leave in bare white plastic. Mind you, thinking about it. If you build a similar vessel, why not make the steps out of black plasticard, then you wont have to push the tip of a paintbrush where it dont wanna go! by using black card, you'll save yourself time and aggro later on.
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I have continued the work on the crane assembly today. I initially made the main boom and swivel base up some time ago, purely to gauge its size and to get the base accurately set in the angled deck area.
So, first thing to construct is the hydraulically operated winch drum. This appears to have a hydraulic motor on both sides of the drum, these were replicated with some plastic tube and plasticard, plus a few bits of plastic rod. The winch drum was made from a couple of plasticard discs cut with a compass cutter and the centre tube, again plastic tube. For a bit of strength I have made the lifting cylinders and pistons out of brass tube, rather than plastic tube, as the crane will operate, raise/lower, i want to make sure it will survive some useage.
Whilst certain items were set aside for the glue to dry I have made up the cable rollers which sit on either [outer] side of the lifting horns. These were simple plasticard "C" shapes and the rollers were white metal bollards, cut down and drilled through the centre to accept a plastic rod bushing to locate all together.
the lifting horn top rollers have also now gone in, these were alloy capstan heads I had is stock from some secondhand spares i bought some time ago, one of those "those might come in" purchases!
(http://s4.postimage.org/tbj625lw/100_4081.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tbj625lw/)
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I have installed the first of the drive system to operate remotely, the lifting crane. I intend to run this for a while to test things out and also add on the lifting mechanism for the boom too. but this is "work in progress" as yet, nothing too definate or confirmed.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTYA_HRpOgY
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Continuing on with the crane work today. its a case of design, draw, build, test. reject ! design, draw, build, test. reject ! Ok, so its a bit of trial and error at this particular stage, as im trying to get the boom to elevate now. Ive got the rotation worked out now, as per the video clip in previous post.
I have decided against having a working winch, as there is too high a risk of the cable cord getting sliced due to rotation movement of the main base unit, so boom will have a fixed lenght winch cable setup, so it will simply raise the boom to a preset height, lifting its, er "cargo" clear of the deck and then swing over the side...................... and back again of course !
Sorry, but no pictures yet, not untill section complete and fully operational, afterall, if i show pics now, then change design, its a waste of a post and spoils things.............
"watch this space " as they say.
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The crane project continues on today, I first trialled the mechanism to lift the crane job with plastic components first, being the cheaper option to modify or have to replace for a slightly different shape/angle. once the design appears to work effictively. I run on test for a while.
here is a short video clip of the crane lift operation.
Please appreciate this is currently being operated from a servo tester, so once connected to the reciever, via a servo morph, the speed will reduce and give better scale operation [i hope].
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0tcXoGN8I8
No, sorry, not posting any pictures of the actual mechanisn yet, not untill its passed my testing routine, just incase of further modifications being required.
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Firstly, appologies for no posting over the weekend, but was busy with another hobby of mine, "Motorsport", so got rather cold and wet up at the oulton park Circuit, so glad to be back in a cosy warm room now.
Ive constructed and added some more of the deck "furniture" today, adding the 2 rope winding posts and also constructed the forward deck winch unit. This surprisingly enough took me almost 4 hours to make, checking drawings, cross checking with photographs, but unfortunately many of the pictures i have show this unit covered with a tarpaulin, so a lot has been down to guess work and referring to a good model tug book for winch pictures to get some ideas.
After waiting over 3 weeks for a reply on another thread concerning a decent resin kit to purchase, from which to make my own life raft cannisters, ive given up on the idea and am currently making some out of wooden dowel rod, trimmed with thin plastic strip to replicate the ribbing lines. More pictures of these to follow once complete guys.
the winch unit is currently undergoing a coat of black pains, after which I will add the winch cable and take some more pictures.
Also whilst this is all going on, ive dug out my "weathering kit" and am "rust streaking" the hull sides. Little at a time, let it dry and see how it looks, then add more if needed, rather than go over the top and end up having to start all over again, as its easy to add more paint, but harder to start from base colour again.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2jcglswkk/100_4096c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jcglswkk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2jcn7yajo/100_4097c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jcn7yajo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2jctu3ois/100_4098c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jctu3ois/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2jd0g92hw/100_4099c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jd0g92hw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2jd8pxsys/100_4100.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2jd8pxsys/)
Oh yes, knew there was something else I was doing! Ive started construction of the clothes horses, er sorry ! "Load cells" which monitor and send readout signals to the wheelhouse monitors for the main winch cables when run forward over the main lifting horns.
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Todays constructions have taken a few angles. I have done some more modifications to the crane mechanisms, so you will se this section of deck missing from the pictures, whilst the mods take effect. I have loaded the forward winch drum with cable and set in position on the deck, but moreso, the main deck area has had its first "initial wash" of rust!
from this point on I can now start to "age" the deck area, forward of the deck winch rollers, as the area towards the stern , behind the rollers is still under construction, as i want to install the load cells, prior to completing the painting of the deck, otherwise it means I have to scrape the paint off the areas where I still need to glue things down and thats double the work again.
I have alos dug out my tamaya "weathering paint sets" which I find very useful and the small "dabbing brush", very effective for appl;ying "stains" and worn areas. I have tried applying some rust water stains to the stern hull area, where the water would run off the deck through the gunwales. Like I said before, this is applied little at a time, allowed to dry then rechecked. if its not "strong" enough, its easy ti apply more, over the top and darken things up, but the effects are getting there. I have also added some staining from the hull side portholes, espceially as they are not really accessible to any cleaner !
(http://s1.postimage.org/21c94hjyc/100_4102.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21c94hjyc/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/21cas0wg4/100_4101.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21cas0wg4/)
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Greg,
It makes such a change to see her painted as a "working vessel". The way I remember her.
Bob
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for your comment. But as you know yourself, you hav eto apply its "proper/as new" colours first, before you can start to apply any sort of weathering. yes it does seem a total waste of time and paint, but its the only way, so you can still get those "untouched" areas of "original colour" where the wellies or displaced sledge hammer cant get at. im also trying to create some "cable/chain runs in the rust stains, where the decks would of got more "newer wear", so the rust will be a lighter colour so to speak. but as with all paint, you have to go at it "layer by layer".
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had to do a running repair to my own "full size" car today, the fuel gauge decided to be non co operative and not show contents of the tank, so had to replace the tank unit. new part price £265 + vat ! item by courtesey of "findapart" £57 inc nxt day delivery. Ok so its a secondhand part, but guarantee for 90 days and its unlikely to fail again in the near future [fingers crossed].
So not been able to attack much on the boat, but have made some of the ventilators and the forward bow fairleads. the fairleads were made up of flat pieces of plasticard, glued together and finally shaped once dry/set. I then drilled the cable slot and filed smooth and added the chamfered edges. Due to the "openess" of these fairleads I took the liberty of painting the undersides of then before glueing in place as there is no way of getting the brush in later.
The ventilators are some plasticard circles, cut out using a "hole punch", they type of thing you would use to stamp out holes in a leather belt or card, works fine on the thinner plastics too, so could be worth buying a set if you need any smaller circlular items. the vent head were made up of a snadwich of 4 discs, glued and left to dry before drilling the base to accept a piece of plastruct tube and a final cut of plastic for the actual vent flap on one side.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2um1zpr8/100_4108.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2um1zpr8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2unpj290/100_4109.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2unpj290/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2upd2eqs/100_4110.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2upd2eqs/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2ur0lr8k/100_4111.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ur0lr8k/)
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Just to give you all a "general update" on the build progress, I have attached some overall pictures of the vessel. i appreciate that the majority of the images so far have been of just specific areas and items associated with the build. There are a lot of items yet to construct, mostly from the photographs I have,simply because the plans supplied by "myhobbystore are "vague" and quite a few items have been left off the build that they actually did, purely for simplicity and quickness.
Todays project is contsrtucing the load cel equipment, which fit forward of the main rear lifting winches. these will be detailled in the next update.
Er, yes, the wheelhouse wiper arms and blades are not fitted [as yet] being such delicate items, these and the handrailing is being left fro completion towards the end of the build, not wanting to damage them by fitting now and having to repair/repair later again.
here goes with the general pictures.
(http://s3.postimage.org/3irvmybo/100_4113.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3irvmybo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3itj6atg/100_4114.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3itj6atg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3iwu8zt0/100_4115.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3iwu8zt0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3j05bosk/100_4116.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3j05bosk/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3j1sv1ac/100_4117c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3j1sv1ac/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3j6rh2ro/100_4118c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3j6rh2ro/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3jbq3490/100_4119c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3jbq3490/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/3jddmgqs/100_4120c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3jddmgqs/)
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The load cell kit is now fitted and have run the winch cables through the sensor pads. I have alos added the forward deck boxes as well as the, er "filing cabinet".
Need some assistance here from the "crew" !
How high was the grey cabinet? Im struggling to gauge its height from the pictures I have as none of the pics is on level ground to compare it with other items. Was it "head height or shoulder height" to the top?
Ive made this one to head height, but can soon lower it.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rw5r2zic/100_4122.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rw5r2zic/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rwplj5fo/100_4123.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rwplj5fo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rwuk56x0/100_4124.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rwuk56x0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rwzir8ec/100_4125c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rwzir8ec/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rx2ttxdw/100_4127.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rx2ttxdw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rx4hd9vo/100_4129.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rx4hd9vo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2rx64wmdg/100_4130.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rx64wmdg/)
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I just can't remember those type of details.
Old Dodes will be on at sometime, he might remember.
Bob
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I have finally managed to aquire some 1/48th scale figures, which arrived today and to be honest, are helping tremendously with getting some of the items I am having to scratchbuild a bit more closer to scale size/dimensions.
hence, my decision to remove the grey cabinet and replace with smaller item, as can be seen in comparison with an original picture.
detail also added today is the vice, mounted on the centre stern roller fairlead by the main winches.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ycpdhr9g/100_4131c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ycpdhr9g/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ydkspcn8/IMG_0562.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ydkspcn8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ye1c2tl0/IMG_0540.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ye1c2tl0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ye9lrk1w/100_4132.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ye9lrk1w/)
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Ok, time to order some major parts.
Ive delayed this as long as possible, mainly due to lack of funds, but fund have now at a level, we can purchase a few bits, but to make the most of my money, Ive decided to follow a link placed on another thread and am buying 3 "ex demo" esc's from mtroniks.
http://www.mtroniks.net/details1.asp/ProductID/706/sid/52/VIPMAR15EXDEMO.htm
But the final bit for ordering is a new jobbis, a bow thruster .
So there will be 2 x esc to control the drive motors and the thrird will control the bow thruster.
This will then mean i can virtually complete the hull running gear off, now I have all the control gear in situ for the crane operation, so know what space is left in the bows to slot in the bow thruster. Ive been toying with the idea for many months, shall i, shan't i do i really need one, will it steer ok without one. Then thinking, "what the heck", "go for it" and power it like an original. yes, pity I know I cant afford the correct "schottle" drives, but I have to live within means and really fed up with living on bread and water at the moment [ha ha].
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She had 360 degree azimouth drives, if you can replicate them you could make some money in selling them. Any way when she is in the water who will see and I think you have so far made a superb model and I drove her for a while, a small but under-rated vessel.
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Shame about the grey cabinet on deck, it look right to me, thats where we kept all out punches, spare burning nozzles, taper pins and various other stores too numours to mention.
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The revised version is pictured in the phot in previous post, before it just looked "to tall" as you would of had to reach over head height to get it to top locker, whereas now, its "head high", so lower in height.
I rekon the "kondor" motors ive already installed in the hull will provide more than enough power for the 50mm korts and i very much doubt if it will ever need to go over the "trim adjust setting" on the joystick - set trim at max f/ward.
I find I can do that with both my Sun tug and my egrete pusher tug and sail around merrily all afternoon and not get "finger strain", simply by using the trim adjust to operate throttle speed for me, bit like "auto pilot", so all i have to do is input rudder "as and when" !
(http://s2.postimage.org/i2smzy5g/100_4131c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i2smzy5g/)
think this cabinets more to scale height!
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I have started the process of making the liferaft cannisters. Following on from the lack of response on another thread on this forum, requesting advise on the best casting resin and mould material to use and getting NO response, apart from a shop trying to seel me ready made versions, which were the wrong size anyway!
So Found some suitable diameter wooden dowel rod, cut to length to suit. I have made the ribs out of plastic micro rod strips, using a thin strip, but wound round the dowel twice to add strength, plus disguise the join.
the horizontal flange strip is being added once the circular ribs had fully dried in position.
The corner cutouts in the liferaft cannisters I found the easiest way to replicate was by using a small round "drum sanding tube" in a dremmel and gently holding the wooden dowel against it, thus "knocking the corner off" the wood. take it bit at a time, you dont want to dig in too deep, otherwise it ruins a cannister and you will have to make another one.
I have now also made up one of the raft cannister holders, again out of micro strip to replicate the small size angle iron it is built from. I have added some cross rails to accept the hold down ties once all is finally assembled.
(http://s1.postimage.org/wzz0oo78/100_4094.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wzz0oo78/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x0dwisn8/100_4095.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x0dwisn8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x0ntqvlw/100_4133.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x0ntqvlw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x14d4cjo/100_4134.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x14d4cjo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x1y4slfo/100_4135.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x1y4slfo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x2eo62dg/100_4136.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x2eo62dg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x57jy8hw/100_4137.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x57jy8hw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/x5av0xhg/100_4138.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x5av0xhg/)
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The bow thruster I ordered arrived today, so decided to fit straight away. After reading the instructions for the graupner version I had bought, the details only seemed to recommend a vertical motor installation, to do this inside the moorhen is virtually impossible due to height limits, so after asking the question on another thread on this site, I was reassured to find out its possible to even mount the motor horizontally. So this is how I decided to mount this one.
Now, bit of artistic license needed here, as due to my own decision to power the crane, i did not have sufficient room in the bows to fit the bow thruster exactly where it should be or the actual outlets. So I have had to mount slightly rearwards of original position, but should still give the moving thrust required at the front end.
The bow thruster kit I ordered was the 14mm version, simply as I only needed a small unit, to work this vessel. the thruster comes with 2 small lengths of plastic pipe, to fit to the sides of the thruster unit and pass through the hull sides, "in any ordinary installation" in of course a boat with "pointy" bows! Moorhen is square fronted !
So what do you do? Extend the tubes yes, but with what? Well, in my shed I had some 15mm white plastic pipe used as overflow pipe for cisterns etc, and you know what, its exactly the same diameter as the stepped outlet hole of the bow thruster! So after a mild bit of heating to add a bend to point down through the corner side raduis of the hull, 2 suitable lengths were then cut "oversize" and installed with the motor assembly inside the hull, not forgetting to solder a couple of lenghts of cable to the motor connectiosn of course !
I then laid the motor centrally on the wooden keel spine I had originally fitted, as I will add an "L" shaped bracket to support the motor assembly, using the top centre screw on the impeller section to attach it to the angle bracket, this then being screwed down to the centre keel spine. I used some epoxy resin to bond the outlet pipes to the hull and once dry, cut the external excess off, then topped off the epoxy resin on the outside to fully seal them to the hull.
these outlets should work ok, especially as slightly angled downwards too,by about 30 degrees id say, I did not want to simply point them out horizontally, due to the shallow running of the hull, it would probably cause more surface disturbance than enough, so bear that in mind if you go same route, but fit in correct piosition, remember to angle out and down.
The last pic in this update shows the bow thruster in position, along with the underside of the crane gearing, now you can see why i had to fit the thruster where i did !! [ha ha].
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h3vvbhxg/100_4139c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h3vvbhxg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h3z6e6x0/100_4140c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h3z6e6x0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h42hgvwk/100_4141c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h42hgvwk/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h45sjkw4/100_4142.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h45sjkw4/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h493m9vo/100_4143c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h493m9vo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1h4ceoyv8/100_4144c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1h4ceoyv8/)
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I have mentioned about my ideas and thoughts about motorising the Moorhen's crane mechanism several times, but up till now, have kept most of the details quiet. Please appreciate tis was purely as it was still " under construction AND devopment". I have had at least 3 attempts to get the system to do all that I want and at minimal costs too.
YES I know you can buy proper r/c kits for cranes, but at a price!
This system I have now tested out works fine and only uses 1 x motor and 1 x servo to operate.
yes this only gives 2 functions, but thats sufficient to get some movement and action on/off deck so to speak.
Firstly, to "rotate" the crane I am using an MFA geared motor [500:1] with a chain drive from motor to central swivel shaft [which is hollow brass tube]. the gear wheels used also double drop the gearing down again, to lower rotation speed as much as possible. This motor is then controlled via an ordinary esc to a joystick control on the transmitter, so you get "left rotate/right rotate on the crane.
Secondly, I decided to simply "elevate" the crane boom, with a fixed length of winch cable attached to the gemini craft. this being the first item to put out in to the water when on duty, so rather than fix the boom in a set position and motorise the winch drum, I fix the drum and lift/lower the boom, it gives similar effect anyway.
The boom lift is controlled via a servo mounted underfloor, close to the central hollow drive shaft, as the servo operates a solid push rod through the centre of the swivel shaft, this then pushes up against the underside [inside] of the lifting boom, so as the servo is switched [via the landing gear switch on your transmitter], plus via a "servo morph" to slow things down, you get a nice gentle "raise/lower" of the crane boom.
It takes longer to explain in words than it does to actually get to work. you will have to take some time to get things correctly aligned fully, to ensure nothing is off centre or misaligned otherwise things get crossed up when the crane is rotated.
One thing I did learn, was that when you attach the upper hydraulic cylinders to the boom, DONT use a piece of rod which passes right through from one cylinder, to the other, as this "traps" against the lifting rod and siezes the drive up. use seperate pieces of rod, so the inside of the boom area where the lifting pushrod goes through is clear of obstruction.
now for the pictures:
(http://s1.postimage.org/1uk9pusuc/100_4091.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1uk9pusuc/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ukd0xhtw/100_4092.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ukd0xhtw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ukwvdnr8/100_4103.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ukwvdnr8/)
These show the geared motor position, chain drive and central swivel shaft in place.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ukyix090/100_4104.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ukyix090/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ul1tzp8k/100_4105.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ul1tzp8k/)
the latter 2 pics show the servo in "lift/ lower mode for the crane boom.
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Now that I have the crane secured to the deck area, albeit on its own section of deck, so removeable for servicing or repair so to speak, I have now fitted the small section of safety walling rearward of the crane mount, which I presume is to prevent any items blocking the space needed for crane rotation.
The final remaining deck capstan has also gone in, just forward of the wall section too.
Oh and i have taken delivery of a set of vac moulded buoys from Model Slipway. Looking at the designs, they are a little out of date, so have been again using the photographs i have to modify one of the buoys to be a bit more realistic. I have placed one of them on the deck, er in "as new" condition, so will need some weathering yet to make it look likes its just been hauled in so to speak.
Now, small question here, In some of the photos i have it shows a deckhand using a "jet wash" to clean the buoys off, was thuis a portable jet wash or something that was "plumbed in" to the ships systems, if yes, where did the hose run to/from?
(http://s2.postimage.org/2g3t5w1wk/100_4145.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g3t5w1wk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2g3wgyqw4/100_4146.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g3wgyqw4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2g3y4i3dw/100_4153.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g3y4i3dw/)
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It was a portable jet wash.
It was fed from a deck hose in stbd inner mid superstructure.
Bob
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I have been doing a few jobs on teh boat over the past few days, but not able to post updates, untill something is virtually complete. I have now installed 3 power controllers.
1 x drive motors/props
1x bow thruster
1x crane rotate motor
The main proulsion motors are never going to get the command of "full power", so have linked them together and powered through a single esc. Driving them independently is an extravagance and with the use of Korts, negates that advantage on turns as the korts give more than enough turning force.
The Bow thruster powers nicely via the esc, giving more than enough steerage control of the bows and even turns the vessel with ease too.
the crane swivel motor has better control than simply powering via a couple of polarity swapping micro switches, I can control rotate speed easily and with control, so wont spill the contents of the gemini everywhere!
the video clip shows the crane operation, but still minus the servo morph to "slow" down the lift operation, thats still on the books, but once saved up enough to go buy one!
I have also decided on position of the reciever unit, this is now "above deck level", under the main superstructure, so will give plenty of radio range, plus away from most interference sources.
The esc switches and light switches will be mounted under the superstructure on the other side to the reciever, again, to seperate any source of interference away from the reciever.
the battery pack is a 12v 7amp unit and fits easily under the deck, laying on its side, so lowering its centre of gravity too. The battery provides quite adequate ballast for the craft, but will fully recheck the waterline once it is finally complete to see if a little additional ballast is required, but that will be done with small car tyre stick on weights, placed exactly where it is needed [if at all].
Next job is to construct the switchgear housing, more to follow in due course.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPPY5-EVvkE
(http://s4.postimage.org/ebu5nvc4/100_4155.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ebu5nvc4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/ec5qfask/100_4156.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ec5qfask/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/eccckoro/100_4157.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eccckoro/)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF8by_5Jpws
Sorry folks, please use this link for the video clip, I forgot to "save" the clip on you tube first!
heres another one of the mast lights and radars, now operating via the new switch panel.
http://youtu.be/CPPY5-EVvkE
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And now for the switch panel.
I first cut 2 cable access holes in the deck, the forward hole allows the cables from the esc switches to be routed in, after first extending the cables and wrapping in "spiral wrap" for protection and also to keep the cables tidy.
the second hole is for the supplycables for the light switches.
1 x battery volts power for all the main lights, nav lights, etc,
1 x 3v battery supply, for the radar scanners. This power supply is 2 x 2AA" batteries [rechargeable] in a seperate battery holder.
Once the switch base was in place and the glu dry, i added a piece of wooden square dowel at eaither end, to enable a screw to be driven in to hold the upper switch panel in place.
I also drilled a further hole at the rear of the switch panel, this is to route the power cable supply, via a 6 pin multi plug to the removeable upper superstructure. again the cables wrapped in "spiral wrap" for protection and tidyness.
I still have the main navigation lights to install, but these are attached to the wheelhouse railing, so will have to wait untill the railing is installed. But nothing stops me fitting the stern light, to the rear face of the funnel. Its then just a case of linking in the power supply internally.
(http://s3.postimage.org/xsbh6e10/100_4158.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xsbh6e10/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/xsd4pqis/100_4161.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xsd4pqis/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/xsgfsfic/100_4162.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xsgfsfic/)
As you can see from the size of the switchpanel, I have plenty of capacity for further switches if i so require.
I may alos fit some deck lights, but will have to check with the photo's to see where [if any[ were fitted, but would not presume this vessel worked after dark, not doing its main job anyway, me thinks far too risky!
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Ive been trying to decide on what to use for the hydraulic hoses on the deck crane. i was going to source some thin hollow tubing, similar to the stuff used by "O" gauge railway modellers, on their rolling stock, but after drawing a few blanks about supply, I have used some thin copper cored cable instead.
I have made up a valve block to attach under the operators platform, to where all the hoses will run to, predrilled to allow the cables to enter for better security with superglue.
I did try to attach the cables to the brass hydraulic cylinders in the same manner, but they kept falling off, so after "tinning" the very tip of the cables, I have spot soldered them to the brass cylinders, a much better strength bond, especially as the crane will do a fair bit of moving around.
The crane boom pipe holders are some small brass handrail holders for the main part, with a few small discs cut from some hollow plastic tube for the lower ones.
(http://s3.postimage.org/18ca75uh0/100_4164c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18ca75uh0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/18cf5rvyc/100_4165.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18cf5rvyc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/18cigukxw/100_4166.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18cigukxw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/18ck4dxfo/100_4167c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18ck4dxfo/)
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My Sincere appologies for the lack of updates, but due to finally being able to secure another job, after 16 months of unemployment, I have had to put the Moorhen to one side to get some hours in at work, but once my shift pattern settles, i will be able to do a few more jobs on Her. its sitting on the table looking at me now as I type, but not enough hours in the day as yet to do it justice. Hopefully just a metter of days not weeks for a proper update!
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In this day and age getting another job is not a reason to apologize for a lack of progress on a model!! Good luck with the new employment.
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T add to Bobs reply on the the jet wash, it was a petrol driven one with two wheels on it's carrying trolley.
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Hi Gregg
She looks very nice I like the Radars and lights :-)
Dave:)
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Thanks for the update on the jet wash, I'll try to remember it when I get to run the hose in.
The radars do work, they are independently powered by a couple of geared motors, mounted underneath the wheelhouse floor to keep them hidden from view, so only their drive shafts run up through the wheelhouse, so the thin tubes not that noticeable inside through the windows.
the lights took some working out, but by using brass tube, I was able to solder the negative ends of the lights to the brass tubes and only then needed to run the power cables down through the insides.
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Its looking a very nice model, I can see at a glance and see who she is, the standard of modeling is excellent, can not wait to see it in the flesh.
David
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IT FLOATS !
Ok, so she may not be complete yet, but I took the oppertunity today to take the Moorhen to my club pool and give the motors and bow thruster a testing to check performance and also ballasting. especially as I tend to prefer to use ballast that "works" on a model ship. in other words, i tend to use the battery for ballast, so try my best to get the battery weight just right to give a decent waterline level, but also have sufficient capacity to enable plenty of "operating time" out on the water.
She sailed perfectly !
A little trim adjustment to the rudder to get a straight line steerage, but nothing else.
The crane works fine and is able to raise and rotate a buoy off the deck and in to the water without problem.
The main drive motors [Deans Marine Kondor's - ] are fine, they turn the 40mm kort props easily and have plenty of spare capacity to give excellent "escape speed" if need be, but have to be very aware of the flat bows, as she can certanly put up a decent bow wave and wash over the bow deck!
YES, Ok I need seriously to get back on track and do some more work on her now, A few pieces to order in the way of stern life boat, the boat cover I can make myself. I do have all the brass rod to make up the railings, so I have no excuse now..
We'll see [ha ha].
I will try and get some more video done of her on the water, the crane certanly pulled a crowd this afternoon and fascinated everyone.
Sorry guys but its pictures only for now.....
ERROR !!!!
Somethings wrong with the site server and I am unable to upload the pictures for now, will try again when i can !
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Seems like server has fixed itself, so heres pictures of the vessels first actual water test 9/6/11. All the details are written in the earlier posting.
Let me know what you all think of her now!
If i can wait for the water level to rise in the pool we use, i should be able to get a better low level picture, rather than a "pointing down" type angle shot.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsdwwz50/P1010355.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsdwwz50/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsr57r38/P1010351.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsr57r38/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsugag2s/P1010352.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsugag2s/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsw3tskk/P1010353.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsw3tskk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dszewhk4/P1010354.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dszewhk4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dt12fu1w/P1010356.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dt12fu1w/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dt4dij1g/P1010357.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dt4dij1g/)
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Gregg,
She looks quite simply superb!!!
Bob
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Hi Bob,
Many thanks for your comment, it is appreciated.
the vessel was at a stage where it needed to be tested on water, to make sure the powertrain was sufficient, not having used deans marine motors before, so did not know if they would be powerful enough or not, so rather than take it too far in to the build and then have to start ripping things out, it was easier to test it now.
I am yet to complete the crane fittings, then i can fully paint the base in Black [as per original] then start on all the railings, then once the railing sare in place I can then make up the upper "baskets" and cannisters, the navigation "light boards" that seem to be attached to the railings, rather than the deck sides so to speak, then finish off the wheelhouse roof with all the remaining aerials and flood lamps and cameras, all fittings that would get damaged if fitted earlier in the build.
So plenty to do yet.
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Hi Gregg,
It certainly is the Moorhen sitting there, Bob says it all, can not wait to see it in the flesh. Nice touch the working crane.
David
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Sincere appologies for such a delay in an update, but personal "life" had to come first. Firstly I have finally managed to secure another job, so now I can afford to continue with the build, now financiaonstraints are, er "easier" shall i say, but more importantly, i am recovering still following surgery to repair a damaged nerve in my left arm, so have been unable to do any work on my boats, or even feed mayself properly for a few weeks.
Right !
Enough of the boring stuff, but I appreciate that you no doubts wonder why some of these boat builds kick off , then suddenly come to an abrupt halt and no explanation, well, this one was genuine
So My physiotherapy session for today has been to start the task of adding all the railings. I have decided to begin with the upper bridge deck are and then work my way down to main deck.
I decided to purchase some robbe rail stanchions as simply using some brass rod and soldering the sross rails to them was going to look a little too "crude" for the build, so expense aside, I opted for these, but having to buy 7 packets [70] is no cheap item.
I am using some 0.8mm copper wire for the cross rails, so appologies if the "critics" amongst you can see all the bends and kinks in the rails, but hey, I've only just soldered them in so have to wait till all gone cold before straightening them with some long nose pliers or a couple of pieces of wooden battern.
Following on from the initial "sea trials" I have also decided to install an automatic bilge pump system, which should hopefully keep her "hold" clear of excess water which sweeps over the flat bows. It does happen, even with the best intentions of keeping her speed down to limit the bow wave, plus due to the design of the deck access panels, i have no choice but to install a pump system, as a "just in case". Well its better than watching her sink from afar and not being able to do anything about it.
(http://s2.postimage.org/j7n2wof8/100_4318.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7n2wof8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/j7qdzdes/100_4319.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7qdzdes/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/j7s1ipwk/100_4320.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7s1ipwk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/j7vclew4/100_4321.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7vclew4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/j7x04rdw/100_4322c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7x04rdw/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/j7yno3vo/100_4323c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j7yno3vo/)
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I have continued today, making up the railing sections, firstly completing the wheelhouse level section, then making up the railing around the stern lifeboat platform, finally by making up the lower ladder section, leading up to the lifeboat platform/wheelhouse.
I found using 0.8mm copper solid wire much easier to shape/form than brass rod of same diameter, plus once all is set in place it is also softer to rehape and straighten later too.
Last picture today shows the water level sensor, mounted in the hull, it detects and "switches" when level reaches 2-3mm, so once the water level drops, the pump switches off automatically too, thus saving on pump vanes from constant running varieties.
The sound module has also arrived, c/o of "Valley Electronics". I will try mounting the speaker so it points "downwards" on the underside of the wheelhouse "bridge section", so not placed in the hull and potential for getting speaker wet and also by mounting here,it saves having to make an open grille space area to let the sound out.
Thats the "theory" of it for now, more once fitted and working of course.
(http://s3.postimage.org/668pjbr8/100_4324c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/668pjbr8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/66nldg78/100_4325c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/66nldg78/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/66u7iu6c/100_4327.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/66u7iu6c/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/66vv26o4/100_4328c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/66vv26o4/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/670to85g/100_4311c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/670to85g/)
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Have managed to do a bit more on the railings, this time on the main working deck. I have started on the "non working" side of the main deck, as some of the stanchion rails will be omitted on the other side to permit free traverse of the crane when in operation. nevertheless, I had had to revise my original "count" of the brass stanchions needed for all the rails. I have used 7 packets of 10 already and have run out !
I have ordered another 2 packets to ensure I have sufficient for the other side of the deck, plus a couple of spares "just in case" of needing to replace any due to collision/accidental damage.
I'll certanly have to make sure this one is not left unattended anywhere, or someone will be "weighing" it in for brass scrap! ! [ha ha].
(http://s4.postimage.org/1c8thpjxg/100_4330c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1c8thpjxg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1c8ygbles/100_4331c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1c8ygbles/)
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With your mention of how wet she is over the front end, it reminded me that the original was very wet forward, even in a following wind you still got spray sucked up onto the fore deck. Probaly while she was so rusty forward, though constant washing down with saltwater did not help matters much. I must say the detail of the build is superb.
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Thanks for your comments, but it is surprising how the model does actually reflect the full size version when being sailed. It does have a lot to do with the flat shape to the bows i admit, but the angles bow rake underneath does little to help, it seems to "pool" the water, rather than push it to either side of the hull.
never mind, its still a great vessel to sail.
I just hope the "auto bilge" system will work, but saying that, it only takes a glance at her side profile and check the waterline mark to see if she has taken water on board or not anyway, its not rocket science and i dont like sailing my boats too far away, i like to keep them in "focus" and enjoy watching them sail.
The second supply of stanchions has arrived, so ive no excuse now to continue with the railings on the final section.
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Have been able to get a bit more of the railing added today. Its amazing how long it does actually take to construct these small sections. each rail stanchion has to have the holes redrilled to accept a slightly larger diameter rail, the plans double checked or the stanchion positions before drilling the deck. the stanchions are then glued in place, then once glue dry, the cross rails added and threaded through. er, the "lifting horn rails took 3 hours alone and that was just to do the one side on one horn!
I have purposely left a section of railing "off/out" so the crane can still swing over the deck and lower its cargo to the waterline "off boat". For better "visual effect" I may well leave the bright yellow buoy attached, as the dark grey inflatable is difficult to see when out on the water, whereas everyone notices the " yellow thing going in to the water"!
I have also now soldered on the flat brass plates for the side navigation lights, on either side of the wheelhouse. I just need to now make up some lamp fittings, capable of taking a small 3mm dia led, so i can illuminate them too.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1qxsso5ic/100_4346c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qxsso5ic/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1qxw3quhw/100_4347c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qxw3quhw/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1qxzetjhg/100_4348c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qxzetjhg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1qy60yxgk/100_4349.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qy60yxgk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1qyazkyxw/100_4350c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1qyazkyxw/)
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Greg,
The detail is "bringing her to life".
Superb job, hope I get to see her sometime.
Bob
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Hi Gregg, the starboard wire railing was only put up for a coastal voyage to comply with regs, but half the stanchions did not work as they fitted into holes in the deck which usually where jammed full with crap and rust. So it looks fine to me with out them fitted. She is certainly looking great.
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Hi Gregg
I'm starting to build a Moorhen as a winter project and have followed your build with great interest.
From the pictures I have seen I cannot work out the ladder steps up the rear of the mast.I wonder if you have a photo of same you could post on here.
Regards Brian :-))
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I will upload soem more detailled pics for you shortly, but in the meantime, the "steps", in the rear of the mast i've done as "U" shaped rungs, so each rung has 2 small drill holes in the mast to accept the brass wire in to the mast body, thus its easier to then dab a little bit of solder on to bond the rung to the mast. Thats why I used square section brass tube for the main mast section, this also then aids support for all the light rigs and the outer safety cage for the ladder too. it all solders together, but be careful you dont get things too hot. use a high temprtature solder for the rungs first, then use a "cooler melt" solder for other items, so it helps to keep everything attached.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zgb2bobo/100_3762.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zgb2bobo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zgededb8/100_3763.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zgededb8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zgjc0esk/100_3765.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zgjc0esk/)
These are a few of the mast build pics from earlier posts.
I will take some more, "as it is now" for you, no problem, anything to help you out.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zgoamg9w/100_3766.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zgoamg9w/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zgt98hr8/100_3767.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zgt98hr8/)
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hers another 3 of the now built main mast. the light fittings are not fully complete, still need some tidying up.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2j6mdvrvo/100_4353.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2j6mdvrvo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2j6wb3uuc/100_4354.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2j6wb3uuc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2j74kslb8/100_4355.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2j74kslb8/)
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(http://s2.postimage.org/t3mjjuas/Scan0003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t3mjjuas/)
Hi Greg have uploaded a pic I found of her at about 3/4 throttle, which shows quite well her bow wave. The photo was taken some time after I retired as she is seen in SD colours here.
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thanks for the picture, it does help a great deal, especially as I now notice the radar masts are different heights ! my plans from good old "myhobbystore" show them equal height!
I have to say Ive never had a set of plans before so full of innaccuracies and "artistic license".
I thinks a bit too late now to do much about this one though, as Ive already bonded the wheelhouse roof down in place, ah well.
Ive given all the deck railing time for the glue bond to fully dry before doing some "final reshaping" to the railings, get them a bit straighter looking. Then i can start priming them up before top coat.
I need to finish the railings off before I fit the liferaft cannisters, otherwise I wont be able to paint the inner faces of the rails in places on the upper wheelhouse deck.
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Well I think when she came home she only had one radar set for some time, the second was fitted latter so that she could comply with the Dover strait regs. When the Goldeneye went the Thames estuary work transfered to Rosyth, but when Rosyth went it went back to Portsmouth, this time the outer Thames Estuary went to the Moorhen and the Medway Ports Authority was given the contract to do the Medway work. Though soon afterwoods the Thames Estuary work was carried out by the Sal's class, as Moorhen was costly out of port because her crew each evening went ashore to stay in Hotels and they also drew night subsistance each, because really she was designed as a day work harbour mooring lighter not as a coaster.
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http://youtu.be/nNRJ5H4B5pg
Finally !
A post update.
I have to admit to having too many builds and renovation projects on the go at once, but find it easier to juggle between them, so as one bit is drying on one build, i can then do something else on another, and so on..........
I have now got the crane operational and tests ok for a long term fix. The navigational light aray is on and working fully, so just a few more minor details now to sort around the deck and life raft fittings.
(http://s9.postimage.org/prhdhcmyj/DSC03463c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/prhdhcmyj/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/xhg7oj537/DSC03464c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xhg7oj537/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/4e68grcch/DSC03465.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4e68grcch/)
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Hi Greg, lovely model, the deck paintwork is really realistic, must be harder to paint than the greendeck of a new virgin working deck. One little point, the green gemini was always stowed on the working deck, it was put anywhere there was a space. The orange rescue boat went on the aft boat deck. I say again best model I have seen so far of her.
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Thanks for your comments. The gemini you see, will be placed on the working deck, but for now, till I make a balsa dummy to sit under the dayglo cover on the stern platform.
The green deck had to be fully painted "green" to start with, then it was given a good wash over with the brown/rust stain, making sure to then leave patches of "green" where you would expect the deck to be "untouched/not walked on". Areas around "common walk routes" were also treated to some dull silver, especially on step edges and door edges to replicate the "wear" usually seen, although difficult to image correctly on a camera image.
im taking the final stages of the build slowly so as not to ruin the build, thats why the update posts are further between now, as its taking longer to complete each bit as they become more delicate to do now as all the "big stuff" is done.
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How do I view the pictures in this thread please?
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I think you have to input the security code each time you log in
for the first few visits.
You should then be able to view the pictures.
Welcome to Mayhem
Ned
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Thank you, I've got them, not sure if I have the time or the skill to build to this detail though, very impressive.
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Your model is amazing! This is going to be my first build, currently have the plans and just waiting on the hull, i've found this thread very helpful. I know you built this some years ago now but would be grateful if you could send me any extra pictures/details/tips. Thanks in advance.