Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: Brian Roberts on March 09, 2011, 10:29:42 am
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Hi all
Having painted the hull of my Atlantis in a gleaming white from a Halford's rattle can (several in fact), I'd be grateful for some advice as to what clear varnish I should apply as protection.
I'm anxious that the varnish won't yellow over a period of time.
Any helpful advice will be gratefully received.
Brian
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Why varnish, the gloss paint is a finish in itself.
It makes it difficult to make good any scratches you may obtain if your paint is coated in varnish.
That should get a few more replies ;)
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I would have to agree with Dicky here that the Gloss finish is somewhat all it needs, however... as with using car spray you should protect the paint with a clear coat of lacquer ( up to 4 coats) then lightly sand with 2000 grit and then buff it, starting with some t-cut then move to a buffer to give that perfect glass like finish. it's a lot of work.
As with white turning yellow over time, todays modern paints tend to have eliminated that issues to an extent, but being white... the chances are you will re-spray it several times over its life span as you will pick up knocks and scratches regardless how careful you are i'm afraid.
There are ways to keep the paint from turning yellow one of the best is to keep it out of direct sunlight when not in use! my father has a white hulled boat he built back during the 70's and its still as gleaming as it was when first finished, all he did was keep the boat in the dark covered with a towel when not in use, and when in use at the lake side, covered up when not on the lake just to keep the sun off it.
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Hi Brian,
Whatever you decide regarding finish, don't do as I did. I hand painted my hulls to a lovely finish, then coated with a cheap "off the shelf" varnish which was ok to begin with but after a few weeks of use on the lake, every part of the hull that had been painted white turned a ghastly and streaky yellow ! >>:-(
I'm not certain but I guess the "yellowing" could turn out looking ok for "weathering" some workboat superstructures. %)
If you do decide to go with varnishing, make sure it contains UV protection - this should be indicated on the tin.
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks everyone for your most helpful replies and I take note particularly of Dicky D's comments but will I need some sort of protection or sealant for the BECC decals?
BrianWhy varnish, the gloss paint is a finish in itself.
It makes it difficult to make good any scratches you may obtain if your paint is coated in varnish.
That should get a few more replies ;)
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Decalfix 28ml Bottle
A water-based solution for softening decals and securing them into position.
Its what I use.
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Thanks everyone for your most helpful replies and I take note particularly of Dicky D's comments but will I need some sort of protection or sealant for the BECC decals?
Brian
Try this thread: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=27859.150
Look towards the lower half of the page.
John
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We have to be careful about terminology here. BECC lettering of the cut vinyl sheet type are not decals and dont really need protection, the adhesive is waterproof. DickyD`s helpful hint is for waterslide transfers I think (decal is the US term) and can be useful for going over rivet and panel lines etc. Not to be used with vinyl of the BECC self adhesive type lettering. Good article OldIron, I should have read it first. Recommended, nay ESSENTIAL reading.
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Sorry, didn't realise we were talking vinyl here as I don't use BECC, I normally get mine from Barry's Model Lettering http://www.modellettering.com/index.asp
Vinyl Decals do not need coating with anything as they are waterproof.
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Thank you all for your prompt replies and I will act accordingly.
Brian
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Hi Brian
As Dicky is stating you don't really need to varnish at all,in ans to your second question with regards to Becc you don't have to seal them in at all.I use all the time and they don't fall off.I have had some on the rescue dinghy for over 2 years now and they were applied straight onto gloss household paint.
YES IT IS OK to lacquer over Halfords acrylic paint.
Any probs then pm me Brian
Stav
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Hi Stavros, been a long time. Well I hope ?
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Nice to see you posting away you gave us all a ruddy fright a short time ago
Stav
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Gave meself a fright mate. :-))
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Hi Brian
As Dicky is stating you don't really need to varnish at all,in ans to your second question with regards to Becc you don't have to seal them in at all.I use all the time and they don't fall off.I have had some on the rescue dinghy for over 2 years now and they were applied straight onto gloss household paint.
YES IT IS OK to lacquer over Halfords acrylic paint.
Any probs then pm me Brian
Hi Stav
Thanks for that , your opinion is valued highly by myself and by the majority of Mayhemmers I'm sure.
Brian
Stav
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Don't know what's going on but my reply to Stav is included in his "quote"!
Brian
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if using a base colour as mentioned like White,Black or Red etc. there is no need for lacquers or varnishes just cut the paint back with a compound to get a gloss flat finish only when using a metallic paint that they cannot be flattend so that's why a lacquer is applied so that can be flattened to a gloss finish, does that make sense.
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Oh Brian stop it you are making me BLUSH now
Stav :embarrassed:
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I think it would take a lot more than that to make you blush Stav!!!
Brian
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So, just to clarify here for my benefit (humour me, I can be a bit slow at times).
I have just about finished my Trent build and am not happy about varnishing it all gloss as suggested in the instructions, as some parts should be gloss, some satin and the deck, obviously, matt. I already have a single coat of Humbrol gloss enamel varnish on the hull, to give the paintwork some protection, and have now applied Barry's Model letters on top of the varnished hull and the superstructure (not varnished).
I am planning to put another gloss coat on the hull, as this is the part most likely to take a bashing when I sail her, but do not want to varnish the superstructure, masts, deck etc.
Would you recommend this course of action and should I use decal cote or some other to help the lettering etc stay on the superstructure?
Any advice would be much appreciated - thanks
Spook