Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Glenedge on April 08, 2011, 08:02:19 am
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Hi all
My name is Glen and I live in Darwin NT Australia. Im new to this forum which was pointed out to me by a friend. I am currently building an Armidale Class Patrol Boat in 1/50 scale. This will be my first running model but i have built scratch built models before. My query at the moment is, how do you decide what motors DC to put in to it?
I have purchased Raboesch 5 blade props with stainless shafts. I got these props as they are nearly identical to the real thing. So any ideas would be helpfull or do i just wack some in and hope for the best?
Glen
(http://s4.postimage.org/2lzjxvkdg/003_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lzjxvkdg/)
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Peter Fitness on here has built one of these.
Try a forum search or PM him.
Bob
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Hi Bob
Thanks for the info. I have had a chat with Peter and seen his pics on the forum. I work at the Navy base here in Darwin so have access to ten of the real ones so there should be no problems getting details for the model.
Glen
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Lucky you. Can you get the 'Powers that be' to send one to Melbourne?
I am building HMAS Ararat (as the only Victorian named one) using a 1:50 fibreglass hull from Steve Batcheldor (see his details on the forum)
There are a number of motors that are suitable. I am trying JP Power 480's from Cornwall Model Boats.
Hopefully they should be sufficient on 7.2v NiMh 4500Ah batteries. (but may need larger capacity ones if they run out too quickly)
Graupner do more powerful motors, but most seem to take a much bigger current.
You are a little 'cart before the horse' getting the props before the motors since each motor, hull, prop combination is unique and a few tries with cheap plastic props are often the way to go before lashing out on brass ones.
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brianB6 & Glenedge ....I am sure that many Mayhem members.......will await you Armidale Class builds :-))...........as previously noted....
1. You have a superbly detailed Armidale Class build thread by our Peter Fitness in our archives
2. I am sure there are also brief comments & a few .jpgs of an Armidale on the blocks ....assumed as at Darwin & yes the propellers are prototypical of the Raboesch 5 blade model versions
Good luck to you both :-)) .....Derek
PS....brianB6....may only be a parallax photography error & I see the two motors are not secured down yet........but they appear to be both facing toward each other @ the comm end........are the prop shafts parrallel to each other on the real vessel? :D
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Hi brianB6
I bought the props originally to put in my other 1:50 static model that is all out of balsa, but after getting one of Steves hulls I was going to put them in the running model. PM me if you like I have plenty of info on these boats.
Glen
(http://s1.postimage.org/1q0tcqts4/DSC00867.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1q0tcqts4/)
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I work at the Navy base here in Darwin so have access to ten of the real ones so there should be no problems getting details for the model.
Glen, I am absolutely green with envy. I wish I'd had that sort of access when I was building mine. I was using a series of detail photos of HMAS Armidale as reference, but decided to name mine Bundaberg, for no other reason than I have a sister and brother-in-law living in that city.
When mine was almost completed, I was horrified to discover the Bundaberg is noticeably different to Armidale, at least as Armidale was when the photos I have were taken. Apparently some modifications were made, and incorporated into other members of the class. However, it was too late to do anything about it, so I have to live with a less than accurate Bundaberg. On the plus side, my model looks great on the water, and performs extremely well. I have not long returned from our fortnightly club sailing day where Bundy once again carved up the lake :-)
Peter.
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Hi Peter
Good to hear Bundy running well. 14 boats were built at Austal Perth and there are 6 different hull configurations!!!!!! You should see the poor chippies here getting cradles ready to lift them. I am thinking of naming mine GLENELG but might misspell it slightly.
Would be interested to see video of it running.
Glen
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Six? My goodness.
I know that Armidale and later boats have different superstructures around the Bridge area and I have done a drawing of the differences, from photos, so I can build Ararat. I am happy to send copies to builders.
Glenelg also has different engine exhausts that are very noticeable.
Derek, The motors were fixed in position on 4mm. stainless steel bolts fibreglassed into the hull but were removed so I could work on the deck and superstructure without damaging them. The photo shows the first layer of fibreglass mat over purpose made washers to spread the load. There is another layer over the top.
Hopefully the shafts are parallel on the full size and in my model. %)
Mine is a slow build but I try and do a little bit each day.
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There have been modifications over the years but Armidale is still different around the Bridge.
Mods. include 2 air intakes on port side at front of superstructure in place of 1 and TV cameras? on top of Foremast.
Perhaps Glen can provide additional information please.
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Brian
The pic i put up earlier shows the two vents you are talking about. port side fwd of the bonnet. These have been added to most of the boats now. The exhaust modifications are being added to each boat as they come out of the water for the five yearly refits. Pic attached.
Not sure of a tv camera on the foremast but will try to get a pic as there is a lot of other stuff hanging off the mast that is not shown in the general drawings.
Glen
(http://s4.postimage.org/9i013go4/003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9i013go4/)
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For Hammersley fans.
Channel 9 Melbourne has started advertising the next Sea Patrol series "coming soon"
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For Hammersley fans.
Channel 9 Melbourne has started advertising the next Sea Patrol series "coming soon"
And it will be the last series. <:( <:(
Peter.
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Hi Peter
Forgot to mention Bundaberg has been in town since christmas so she now has the new exhaust mod fitted. I will try and put a pic up later.
Glen
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For you Peter
I believe it reprsents the bundy area IE: the crossed cane knives and sugar cane stalks wrapped around.
Glen
(http://s2.postimage.org/2wgvz8484/003_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wgvz8484/)
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Ahhhh!!
TF72 strikes again :-))
Mdu
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If Bundy is short for Bundaburg what are the nick names of the others?
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Brian, Bundy is the nickname for the city itself, so I am guilty of referring to the boat that way as well. Even the famous Bundaberg rum is almost exclusively called Bundy rum.
Glen I downloaded the Bundaberg crest from the Navy's web site, then printed it on to decal paper from my computer. All the crests of the class can be obtained as GIF images here http://www.navy.gov.au/HMAS_Bundaberg (http://www.navy.gov.au/HMAS_Bundaberg)
Peter.
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I am wondering what the present H.M.A.S. Ararat in called.
According to the RAN, the original H.M.A.S. Ararat was named after the Victorian town and was one of sixty Australian Minesweepers (commonly known as Corvettes). Commissioned on 16 June 1943, she became known by her crew as “the Ark” because of Mount Ararat’s association with Noah’s Ark which was displayed on her crest.
However I think the real crews name for her was "The Rat" %% since there is a book written in 1992 "The Rat: H.M.A.S. Ararat 1943 - 1945" Author: Gordon Broom.
"Ratty" 'Wind in the Willows'? or just "Rat"?
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Hi Brian
Although a new class they all keep the nickname "The Rat" ARARAT
Glen
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Hi all
Shafts in finally. Been doin alot of work on upper deck fittings till i can get some motors
(http://s4.postimage.org/1ucqka1r8/004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ucqka1r8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1ucx6ffqc/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ucx6ffqc/)
Glen
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Looking good :-))
She will beat 'the Rat' to the water. :embarrassed:
Have you decided what to call her?
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Glen
The JP Power 480 is an electric flight motor which runs at 17000RPM with no load. This is VERY fast for a non "fast electric" application, especially with the heavy load of five-blade props. You run the risk of drawing excessive current (>10A per motor) and quickly burning out the motors. Just as a comparison, my 1/40 scale HMCC Sentinel prototype has two pretty sedate 545 motors running 5-blade Prop Shop brass props through Graupner gearboxes. Holds a very scale-like speed.
Can you tell us what diameter the props are, please? Also how long is a 1/50 Armidale?
DM
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Hi Brian
I am thinking of calling her GLENELG as thats my name front and back!!
Hi ACTion the props are 30mm diameter, I got these to put on the static model i am building bbut thought i would give them a go on the running model. The model is 1.1M long on a fibreglass hull I got from Steve in Wagga Wagga.
:-))
Glen
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Glenelg has been added to the names register topic:-
Armidale Class Patrol Boat - Names Register in Warships, Navy, Miltiary
What is Steve going to call his and does anyone know of any more 1:50 scale Armidale names?
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Hello ACTion
From what you say I might have to change the motors from the 480's but I did not allow much room for bigger ones. I bought them to try in a fast launch but did not use them in the end. Can you suggest what props to use even if they are not to scale please?
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Hi Glen,
I'll hopefully be following you up on a build. I envy you having the access, I knew one of the skippers, and got a tour with lots of photos in Cairns about four years ago. But the under water was what has always eluded me. How do Steves hulls compare to the real ones?
I have one of Allans 1/72 hulls, but that was too small, so have decided on a 1/50. I hope to follow you and the others here.
Do you think a balsa sheeted hull would be too light? I get enjoyment doing a comlete scratch build.
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How long is the 1/72 hull, I wouldn't mind a crack at that :-)
Balsa is fine for a sheeted hull, I epoxy and fibreglass (light weight cloth) over my 1.2 metre Axe Bow and its more than strong enough.
To use the 480's John Darke has a gearbox that fits those motors and gives a 2:1 2:5 1and 3:1 ratio.
Nick
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The 1:72 that you can get from Alan Pew is about 76cm long. I have one of those on the shelf that my Dad reckons he will do when ever he moves back up here.
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Can you suggest what props to use even if they are not to scale please?
Brass 5-blade props are more expensive than most small motors, and it would perhaps spoil such a beautiful model to hang the wrong props underneath. I wouldn't recommend going above a 25mm dia prop for the 480 motors.
I estimate the model to be around 45" x 8", so you could think about fitting Mabuchi 555 motors and use the props you already have (whose size we still don't know - maybe 30mm or 35mm?). The alternative, as Nick says, may be to contact JD in Queensland and obtain a couple of his offset gearboxes to suit the 480s. PM me if you need his details.
DM
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The 1:72 that you can get from Alan Pew is about 76cm long. I have one of those on the shelf that my Dad reckons he will do when ever he moves back up here.
More than big enough, I've got an RC 1:72 Schnellboat with 3 motors, Its considerably smaller :}
Nick
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Happy to pass on my APS 1/72 hull for a muchly discounted price if it means someone will use it. I can't even recall what Alan sells them for.
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Because the hull has mostly flat shapes you might be better off with 1.5 mm. or so ply rather than balsa.
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What about plastic card? I've always thought about simulating welds using heat.
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Well there are plenty of 'vac formed' hulls on the market but generally not the size you are thinking of.
It might depend on the framework you are putting it on and the gluing methods needed.
Don't buy the small sheets from the hobby shop, you will need to cover the hull in one length per "flat" and fake the joints. Have a good look at photos to see where they are but some of them are pretty difficult to see so is it worth the effort?
I bought 900 x 1800 x 0.75 thick from a signwriting firm quite cheaply.
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Hi all
Been tinkering some more. Got stern tubes in with A frames and more work on the aft mast. :-) NO motors yet.
Glen
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ahgic05g/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ahgic05g/)
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Looking good! :-))
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Glen,
What are the exhaust mods you mention? Any pics or details?
I'd be interested to hear what you thought of the balsa hull that you started. I'm thinking of going that way myself. Any issues?
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I can't see why balsa wouldn't be suitable for the hull, provided it was toughened with fibreglass or resin. One of our club members builds 8 foot long battleship hulls from balsa, and they are standing up well to lots of use.
Peter.
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Remember it's also used by those who use BB's to sink each others ships. >>:-(
They are not allowed to use fibreglass. <*<
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Hi sean
The exhausts got extended as per the pic. My balsa model has every frame in it so is very strong but not good for running. I had some problems skinning the bow section but it is now on the back burner till i get this other one running.
Glen
(http://s1.postimage.org/1jezkq0g4/025_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1jezkq0g4/)
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Hi Sean
Heres a better pic of the exhaust mods.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2r43cvjac/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2r43cvjac/)
Brian,
the drawing you sent of the exhaust grille now makes sense as having a closer look today the original extruded louvres are still there and as you say are inside the flange. the additional pieces added on do protrude out from the flange as in the pic. The matter of water getting in is easy, It dont. Because of the positioing of the original louvres the water will need to run uphill to get passed, so any water drains off outside on the additional pieces added.
Clear as mud Hey?
Glen
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I didn't know the Yarra flowed through Darwin. {:-{
For the uninitiated, it flows through Melbourne and is cleaner on the bottom than the top, so 'they' say. %%
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We have the Adelaide River up here, Never in 12 years have i seen it clean. Thats why they have all the jumping crocs there cause they cant even see underwater. %%
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Sounds like cape York. A mate was bitten on the head several years ago by a croc. But us qld coppers are thick skulled.
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Hi All
been working on the engine room exhaust plus the engine exhaust mods. Need some more material for the generator exhausts and supports. IM happy so far.:-)
Glen
(http://s3.postimage.org/1wjnqiyys/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1wjnqiyys/)
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Hi all
rudders in finally if they look off angle I dont care.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2n02oa0zo/009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2n02oa0zo/)
Glen
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Off angle?
I know quite often on twin screw boats the rudders are not aligned with the shafts for a couple or reasons.
Maybe it's my eyes, they look good to me Glen.
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You are right there, the rudders are not on the same line as the shafts so that they can remove the shafts without removing the rudders. Seen it done a few times here when they have stuffed the shaft bearings.
Glen
(http://s4.postimage.org/14eijxuw4/DSC00860.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/14eijxuw4/)
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Hi all
Can get hold of Johnson motors here in Darwin easy, they are the 785LPs. Still waiting to see if the hobby shop here can get a dual ESC that peter mentioned. Will these be OK!!!! or will I be screaming across the harbour?
Thoughts???
Glen
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Not sure if you really need independent control of each motor.
OK it makes it much easier to go round a steering course but unless you are constantly manoeuvring at low speed it does not make a lot of sense to me.
Of course you could install the proper bow thruster that would do the same thing in a prototypical manner.
I prefer to stick to the K.I.S.S. principal and use only one ESC.
Action and Mtronics (try Float a Boat) both do a suitable one.
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Glen,
For what it is worth I plan to run independent engine controls only because of my real world experiences. As Brian has suggested it will only be used a small percentage of the time, but hey, being able to split the sticks is my cup-a-tea.
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Glen, the ACTion P94 dual ESC I used is only available from ACTion Electronics in the UK. Contact the proprietor, Dave Milbourn and he will be only too happy to assist you.
Peter.
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Hi peter
Thanks for the info, not sure which way to go yet {:-{
Have some Johnson motors to fit soon Maybe, been working on some structure detail in the mean time. latest pic
Have got the stern tubes in with A frames, Props and shaft seem to spin fairly freely know, second attempt :-))
Some control gear next.
Where did you did get your bowthruster??? Floataboat have one but it is a paddle wheel type???
(http://s4.postimage.org/8mri17ac/005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8mri17ac/)
Glen
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Glen, my bow thruster is a paddle type made by Raboesch and I bought it from Redbank Models in the UK. However, I read some posts recently which seem to suggest that Redbank Models may have ceased trading which, if true, is a shame as they were excellent to deal with. The bow thruster works very well.
I am thinking of giving my Armidale a refit and incorporating some of the later features of the class, including the modified exhausts. Any details would be much appreciated O0 When I will actually do the refit is up in the air at present, as we are going to move back to our farm sometime this year, plus I am booked in for a knee replacement on June 10, so will be out of action for a while.
Peter.
PS Perhaps the reports of the demise of Redbank Models were a bit premature. I have just read the thread again, and it seems that they are still trading, but having problems with their website and emails.
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Hi peter
Found a Raboesch bowthruster from Floataboat so will get it and see how it goes. Just finished installing the motors with a single ESC and run it in the spa. :-)). I want to put in 2 ESCs plus the bowthruster. Steering gear seems to work as well. Looking forward to getting it in a mates dam, only waist deep if things go wrong!!!
Glen
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Got some ESCs today from floataboat. :-) Looking at running the motors individually plus a third ESC for the bowthruster. ;) The paperwork that came with the ESCs explains about the receiver power so things are starting to make sense. One battery to supply the motors, another to supply the bowthruster and receiver as this battery wont get worked as hard!!! That should work?
(http://s2.postimage.org/wnk7iqqs/005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wnk7iqqs/)
Glen
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Glen, do you know if Bundaberg has had the exhaust modification done?
Peter.
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Hi peter
Bundaberg had the exhaust mods done over christmas while she was out of the water here in Darwin.
Glen
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Thanks, Glen.
Peter.
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Taking her out for test run in a mates dam tomorrow :-)) Bowthruster not fitted yet. Fingers crossed all works.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2itki40dg/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2itki40dg/)
Glen
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Got a video camera? Very exciting!
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Hi all
had a play in a mates dam, all worked well. DIDNT go as fast as I thought. :-( But still tuning things.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2druaqqis/003_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2druaqqis/)
The yachet in the background has been moored up there for several years so maybe Hutch seeing my boat may stir him up to get it going again.
glen
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Looks good.
Does it need some weight aft?
Do you think you'll get scale speed ok? I'm interested to see if your prop/motor arrangement is the way to go for me.
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Judging by the photo, the waterline aft looks OK, given that a fair amount of gear has to be fitted on the after deck. This includes the 2 RIBs, their davits and other assorted items, as seen in this early shot of HMAS Armidale.
The port RIB is in the water, as it was being used during this visit to Sydney.
Peter.
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Scale speed???? It seems to go alot faster than scale but have a new transmitter that i can program, need to slow down in reverse before i put the deck under. :-)
Sean i have used two Johnson 780lp motors with couplings direct to the shafts, 30mm 5 blade props and two viper 40A ESCs. I have another ESC forward for when the bowthruster shows up. This week hopefully.
Glen
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Got the bowthruster in. Raboesch like you said Peter. It works a treat in the spa. :-) Have some video of it but it seems too big to load up?
(http://s2.postimage.org/dpwwi2jo/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dpwwi2jo/)
Glen
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Hope this works. Just a short clip of the boat in the spa.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXE8OD_5wj4
Glen
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Yes, worked a treat.
I will have to visit Float a Boat and buy a Bow Thruster.
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Hi all
Without owning a lathe or such has anyone got some idea how i can make the refraction dish on the midship mast?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Glen
(http://s2.postimage.org/yig76wys/riffaction_dish.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yig76wys/)
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Glen, I made the one on Bundaberg by first cutting 2 circles of 1mm styrene sheet to the required diameter, then forming a cone from very thin styrene. I sat the disc inside the cone and glued it using solvent and, after it was thoroughly set, trimmed the thin styrene flush at the bottom and to the required height on the upper side. I made 2 of these then glued them together, back to back. An alternative would be to use brass sheet, but it would need to be thin to keep the weight down.
If I was going to do it again though, I would probably use my lathe and turn it up from aluminium.
Peter.
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Hi Glen
I am thinking of trying brass since I like the material. Soldering the various aerials on will be stronger than glue.
I have some 0.3 mm. sheet. The circle should be easy enough and I will try and make a wooden cone, or 2, as formers for the rims.
Many years ago I had a small muffler formed up professionally in spun aluminium (or aluminum as the spell checker wants to call it.) but I do not know how thin a material one could turn.
Why did I get rid of my lathe? <:(
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Many years ago I had a small muffler formed up professionally in spun aluminium (or aluminum as the spell checker wants to call it.) but I do not know how thin a material one could turn.
You need to move over to Firefox and get this
Cheers
Nick
(http://s4.postimage.org/1r4xe0qg4/australian_add_on.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1r4xe0qg4/)
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I have used Firefox for a long time. That's not the problem.
It's the spell checker on Mayhem! {:-{
I am still looking for a good English - Strine dictionary for use in orztrilia ok2
We still keep the "I" in orztrilia but maybe the Ameracans should investigate putting the one back in aluminium <*<
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I think it was Neville Chamberlain who said "England and America are two countries divided by a common language" :-)
Peter.
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And Professor Higgins in My Fair Lady who commented that "the Americans have not spoken it (English) for years"
Back to the subject please. O0
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Speaking of subject, I tried the cone idea didnt like it. Might see if i can talk the fitters at work to whip one up on the lathe out of teflon. %)
Glen
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Speaking of subject, I tried the cone idea didnt like it. Might see if i can talk the fitters at work to whip one up on the lathe out of teflon. %)
Now that sounds like a plan O0 Let us know how it goes.
Peter.
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Hi Glen
I am starting to get a few bits finished for my 1:50 scale Armidale. I will be having a go at moulding some of these components in the next few weeks.
I have been using a mates vacuum chamber to mould parts for some of my other models recently and this has inspired me to build my own vacuum chamber. My vac pump arrived in the post on Friday so as soon as I can construct the rest of the chamber I will be making some rubber moulds of my finished 1:50th Armidale components.
The dish and the gun are the first items that I will be attempting to mould. Hopefully soon after I will be able to mould the RHIB's as these are also starting to take shape.
If you are not able to get a dish turned at work then I may be able to supply one in the not too distant future.
Steve
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I remember many years ago, seeing a home made vac chamber that used a vacuum cleaner as the pump.
The way the styrene was sucked onto the mould for an electric speed hull, was very impressive.
The cleaner would probably be OK for a limited number of models but not on a large number.
I have tried making ships boats with just a solid wood mould and the styrene clamped between two pieces of 6 mm. ply. Getting just the right heat and pressing down on the mould as quickly as possible, is critical. Only suitable for one or two goes since it takes so long to fix the styrene in between the ply.
The Radomes would be two other useful items to mould.
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Regarding the ‘Refraction Plane’
Does anyone know how to calculate the shape of the cones on a flat surface?
No doubt it has something to do with Pi but it is a long time since I did geometry at school.
I know it has to be a circular “C” shape.
Smaller diameter:- 24.5 mm. height:- 4.5 mm., and 90 degree cone, i.e. 45 degrees on each side.
I would rather calculate the pattern than “suck it and see” %)
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Somebody posted this on the forum a while ago possibly umi but i cant remember
http://www.rocketreviews.com/tool_shroud.shtml
hope it helps
Tim
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Nice question Brian
Thankyou Lt. Raen I will give it a go tonight.
Glen
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Thanks for that.
Seems to work fine.
Only one very small {-) problem.
I cannot measure to the 15th. decimal place of a millimetre. <:(
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HI all
Gave the shroud calculator a go and the it seems to work, just cutting it out with scissors is a bit rough but the idea works. :-)
The guys at work should have one machined up by friday so see how that turns out!
(http://s4.postimage.org/2qwikrvfo/005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2qwikrvfo/)
Steve I would be very interested to see your RHIBs and gun when they are done.
Glen
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been working on the bridge windows.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ps6ekp50/002_6.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ps6ekp50/)
And some sea trials on the real ridecontrol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FaxOAWwd7A
Glen
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Coming on nicely.
Wish you blokes would put larger photos on here, even clicking on them doesn't make them much bigger.
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Those aerials in the background are to big for 1:50 scale! %)
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For Dickie
Hopefully this will be large enough. Sorry about the funny shape but it's the 161 limit.
I have used Perspex for the superstructure which is why it looks so terrible with the protective paper still on. 'The Rat' has progressed from this.
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Thanks Brian, that's a bit better. :-))
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Brian, I use a piece of free software called "Light Image Resizer 4", which allows you to resize digital photos to whatever you want. For the forum, I resize them to 800 x 600 which usually keeps them under the 161kb limit, but makes them big enough to be seen clearly. See photo in reply #70 above.
It's available here http://download.cnet.com/Light-Image-Resizer/3000-2193_4-10529104.html (http://download.cnet.com/Light-Image-Resizer/3000-2193_4-10529104.html)
Peter.
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Hi Peter
At the moment I use Irfan View, but I will try your suggestion.
I think the problem with my last image was all the gravel in the background.
In the meantime I have managed to connect all the Aft Mast lights, despite a couple of dry joints (my father would have been horrified at my efforts. My excuse is that they are very fine wires and it is a very small space. <*< )
Um! Fishing and towing the RIB?
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It's looking great, Brian :-)) What thickness perspex are you using for the superstructure?
Peter.
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Hi Peter
1.5 mm. for the main Bonnet, Mast, Decks etc. but 2.5 for the Bridge walls as this was the thinnest I could obtain tinted to a dark colour. I will simply paint the bridge using the paper covering as masking and then remove the paper which, hopefully, will reveal the dark glazing.
I know it is much heavier than styrene but there is not much bracing needed.
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Very nice brian but!!!
the yellow stern tow light has been moved to the ensign staff in a double fitting with the aft anchor light. What is the white light at the top of the mast? There is a flood light at the top for when they are at anchor and another floodlight down lower which is an emergency light.
Here is a pic of the ensign staff showing, the very top light is the aft anchor light,(white all round) under it is the sterntow yellow light and at the bottom is the double stern light (white) Pic taken today. And it is all on the centreline now. I think Armidale originally had it to one side.
(http://s2.postimage.org/veadeas/002.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/)
Was that busy at work today managed to cut out most of my windows and went to the local hobby shop and discussed tinted windows, I will be trying some clear perspex with a smoke paint like they use on the helicopters in the store so looking forward to see how it goes.
Glen
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One of the problems seems to be modelling the boat at a particular date.
I have photos from the net that show the towing light on the mast so I will stick with that position for now. O'Tooles law dictates that it will clash with the position or design of some other fitting for the rivet counters to complain about. (O'Tooles law:- 'Murphy was an optimist')
The bit sticking out of the top of the mast is a tube to take a wire to "hopefully" turn the radar.
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Hi Brian
yeh I suppose pick a period(year) and build it, so I shouldnt tell you they have modified the aft transom platform because they keep pranging the RHIBs!!!! ;)
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Aghhhhhhhhh! <:( <:( >>:-( My next boat will be freelance to my own design.
Another photo for Dickie
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Thanks Brian :-))
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Brian
The middle NUC lights have actually got a smoked lens on them, if you could do that it may cut down on the brilliance of the LED!!!! Just a thought.
Glen
(http://s3.postimage.org/21lo9y0qs/003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21lo9y0qs/)
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Hi all
Got my refraction dish machined at work out of aluminium and I must say I AM impressed.
(http://s3.postimage.org/602zcsck/003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/602zcsck/)
I was quite happy with how light it is too.
Glen
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Can we all place our orders please? %)
Actually I still want to try a brass one when I get that far.
I am now on my fourth attempt at the engine exhaust louvres and it looks as if number 5 won't be far away.
Good thing I do not have much hair!
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I used the slide catches off the box of an old set of tech drawing instruments that one of my boys used at school. They were ridged for grip and made a very acceptable (to me, anyway) representation of the exhaust louvres.
Peter.
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Good idea, Thanks. O0
Now all I have to do is find some. :((
Mine have long gone. <:(
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For a 1:25 model of H.M.A.S. Larrakia being built in France for those of us with a smattering of French see:- http://lesitedepascal.net/homepage.htm
If you want a translation I will try and persuade SWMBO to look at the site but there are plenty of pictures. 8)
He has been building since August 2009 and it is not finished yet. It certainly helps to have the right equipment!
He proposes using 15 motors for various actions and 17 channel radio. Do the French have more fingers than the rest of us?
Anyway, it's a beautiful build.
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Hi there google translate does a pretty good job of translating web pages, just enter the url into the text box and hit traslate
Or try this link
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Flesitedepascal.net%2Fhomepage.htm (http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Flesitedepascal.net%2Fhomepage.htm)
Hope that works
Tim
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Anyway, it's a beautiful build.
It certainly is O0 It makes mine look very amateurish :embarrassed:
Peter.
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As my school report said:-
"Will have to try harder" :embarrassed:
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Hi all
Very impressive work on the 1;25 scale. :embarrassed:
He even has the internals of the bridge constucted, You CANT tell me he hasnt got Austal drawings!!!!!
Heres my latest pic
(http://s1.postimage.org/204xnogas/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/204xnogas/)
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Hi Glen and Brian
Both of you guys are doing some great work on your Armidale models. It is making me feel bad that I keep getting distracted with other projects and am not progressing much with my own 1:50th Armidale.
Keep up the great work and keep the photos coming.
Steve.
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You are not the only one that gets distracted.
I am building a wall in my wifes studio to separate the 'clutter' from a display space. <*< She does fantastic pastel portraits and some sculpture.
At least today I have been able to buy the coupling inserts to connect the new gearboxes. (thanks to John Darke, the motors and gearboxes certainly look the part) Now I just have to alter the mounts.
If the sun is still shining here tomorrow I will take some pictures outside. 8)
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Pictures as promised.
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Funnel and rear deck.
Yes, I know the flag locker is too high. None of the lockers are fixed yet.
The day WILL come when I remove the protective paper. (I hope)
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Starboard side
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It does not always work. >:-o
Tries 1, 2 & 4 to make the exhaust louvres. Number 3 was thrown away in disgust. >>:-(
Trial 5 will attempt to get the appearance of 2 with the regularity of 4. {-)
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Hi brian
Here is a pic of my exhaust louvre. I glued all my strips in place longer than needed then cut it to shape. It then went into the cutout that had a shroud already fitted. Hope that makes sense! I am happy with it so until something better comes up thats how it is staying.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ficwappg/002_4.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ficwappg/)
After looking at the french version I am seriously thinking of the gyro system for stabilisers????? %%
Glen
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Another question Brian :}
How did you do your vent louvres stbd aft on the bridge? :D
And how do you get your pics up the way you do?
Glen
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The other louvres were done with corrugated aluminium left over from an HO model station.
I am not sure if it is still available since I have had it for many years.
There is a plastic version made by Slaters in UK availabe, but it is not as well defined and is thicker. I saw it in a model railway hobby shop yesterday.
I use "Irfanview" (free download) to lower the quality of my photos but I have not yet found a way to reduce the area of the picture.
Peter mentioned another programme further up this topic but I have not tried it yet.
As for the exhaust louvres, I see you have the outside parallel with the mast, which is what I achieved with number 4. If all else fails I will use that one but I am hoping to get the outside of the louvres angled at 45 degrees as per the full size ones. All I have to do is to get the idea I had at 2.00 am last night, to work in daylight.
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Glen see reply #90 re the image resizer. It's free and you are able to choose the size you want the photo to be. For the forum I resize to 800x600, but for emails I generally resize to 1024x768. In each resolution the file size is greatly reduced but picture quality is still good.
Peter.
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Corrugated aluminium used vertically for the generator room louvres.
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Guys I might have missed the detail, but what are the specs of the superstructure material?
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Peter, Glen and I think Steve, have used styrene sheet, well braced.
Mine is 1.5 mm clear perspex since I have used it before. Heavier but less bracing.
It comes with protective paper on both sides. Both Styrene and Perspex can be bought in large sheets from sign writers etc. although I had to order 1.5 mm as they usually use 3.0 mm min.
I have also offcuts of thicker material. It is easy to work and takes a smooth finish although getting a polished surface is almost impossible without proper equipment. Makes good windows and is available in various colours.
Brian
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If at first you don't succeed, try, try again.
Number 5 fitted to the aft mast. O0
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Nice brian
I amm having heaps of problems trying to spray perspex with smoke colour for the windows. Is there somewhere i can get 1mm smoked perspex????
Glen
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High gloss shine can be put back onto Styrene or Perspex (Acrylic) by "Solvent polishing" them.
In the case of Styrene by painting the surface with Acetone and allowing to dry, and Acrylic by the use of MEK (MethyEtheylKetone) by either painting it on or allowing vapours to flood the component in a container.
You should try it on bits of scrap first to get your method sorted. Trichlorethylene is a good solvent glue for styrene too as long as you don't smoke while using it. (Look up the word Phosgene)
Advisable to do this in a vented area.
Regards Ian.
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Thanks for the information Circlip.
Acetone is easy enough to obtain, but the place I purchased the perspex from wanted to charge $11 for a tiny bottle of MEK so I use superglue for fixing unless I need to ensure it remains clear or tinted since superglue turns perspex and styrene white. See the bottom 3 angles on the louvre photo which were grey styrene.
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Hi Glen
Just some thoughts on making your windows. For my 1:72nd scale Armidale I used thin clear acetate sheet cut to the outside dimensions of the window frames. I then masked the parts that I wanted to remain clear and painted the sheet black. The inside of the bridge area was painted dark grey. Once the masking was removed the windows were glued onto the outside of the bridge. When all of the windows were fitted it gave the illusion that the clear areas were tinted. This worked for me and seemed to give a realistic affect. The diagram below shows the window sections from one side, the white areas were the parts that were masked prior to painting.
(http://s2.postimage.org/t2z8o2xw/Windows.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t2z8o2xw/)
I have also been working on some bits and pieces for my 1:50 scale Armidale. The pictures below show the components that I have made so far. My plan is to mould these items as I complete them in the near future.
(http://s2.postimage.org/t53be1no/IMG_32363.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t53be1no/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/t5bl2s4k/IMG_32433.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t5bl2s4k/)
Regards
Steve
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Hi Steve
Thanks for the info on the windows, I have put the smoked plastic on the inside like the pull down screens on the boat and will try your way with the clear plastic outside. %% Would still be interested in getting a gun and Rhibs off you too Steve. :-))
Brian
Here is a couple pics of Ararats fxle for you
(http://s1.postimage.org/x9fsdbyc/009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x9fsdbyc/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/xaeinmbo/010.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xaeinmbo/)
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Thanks Glen
Looks as if she needs some work doing to the anti slip decking.
I suppose I could incorporate it as weathering! %%
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Hi brian
Typical of aluminium if not prepared properly, note the customs boats are not painted. ;) received the parcel today thankyou.
Glen
(http://s3.postimage.org/7ne2r9hg/011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7ne2r9hg/)
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Plodding along, more basin trials. Need to find somewhere close to do sea trials. :-)
(http://s1.postimage.org/ktzmihok/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ktzmihok/)
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Coming along nicely.
Darwin Harbour might be a bit crowded and I hear there are crocs. there as well. Might just get eaten!
First try for the refraction disk in brass. The calculations from the rocket web site appear to work but there is some distortion so I will try with thicker material.
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Glen and Brian
Hi guys
I have made a start on moulding a couple of bits for the 1:50th Armidale. The photo shows the first gun and some bollards pulled from the moulds earlier today. I am slowly working on some of the other parts. When I have a few parts ready to go I will let you know.
(http://s1.postimage.org/w1c51lhg/IMG_32564.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w1c51lhg/)
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hi could you show haw you do your molds
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Hi gwa84
In the next few weeks I will be moulding some more parts. As I go through the process I will take some photos and then post them so that you can see the way that I go about moulding bits and pieces.
I can give a short explination for now.
The gun parts and the bollards in the photo were all done in simple single piece moulds as follows. The grey gun is the master which has been built up from styrene and painted. The master was then stuck to a square base of styrene sheet using double sided tape. Styrene walls were then glued to the base creating an open top box, this can be seen in the background. Silicon rubber (blue in this case) is then mixed and poured into the box covering the master. This rubber is left to set for 24 hour or more. Once the rubber has set the box is dismantled and the master is carefully removed from the rubber mould.
The rubber that I have used is quite flexible with a high tear strength so even complex parts can be moulded in a single piece mould. In Australia this particular rubber is known as Ultrasil.
To make the white casting I have used a slow setting polyurethane resin. It has a pot life of 20 minutes and can be removed from the mould after six hours. The resin is mixed and poured into the mould and allowed to set. After six hours the casting can be carefully removed from the mould by stretching the rubber a little. It all sounds pretty easy but there is a bit more to it really.
I have been using a home made vacuum chamber to de-air the rubber when making the mould and the resin when making the casting to ensure that all of the air bubbles are removed. This gives a much better outcome than just mixing and pouring into the mould.
I will give a bit more detail after I take some photos.
I hope that this helps for now
Regards
Steve
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I would like to see how you made your vacuum chamber.
My wife does sculptures, among other art works, and has cast them in plaster. She has not attempted silicone moulds but they should give much better results than she has had so far.
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Hi Glen
I have cast a few more bits for the Armidale this week. Next on the list are the RHIBs.
GWA84
I have taken a few photos of how I have moulded some bits and pieces and placed them onto a couple of pages on my web site. One page shows the moulding process and the other page shows my vacuum chamber. Hopefully these pages will answer your earlier question.
http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/resin_casting.htm (http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/resin_casting.htm)
http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/vacuum_chamber.htm (http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/vacuum_chamber.htm)
(http://s2.postimage.org/m7qfh4dg/IMG_33314.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m7qfh4dg/)
Steve
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verry good thatks should help alot :-))
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Emergency generator compartment vent!! It looks a bit rough but think i can get it looking better. :-))
Glen
(http://s1.postimage.org/1nrianqys/007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1nrianqys/)
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Coming along nicely.
At least you have covers and hinges which is more than "The Rat" has at the moment. (Post 119)
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Hi Brian
Looking forward to seeing your latest drawing. Here is a pic of a hatch i tried. :}
Looks abit rough but it suits me. %%
Glen
(http://s2.postimage.org/sqfsqmxw/014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sqfsqmxw/)
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Hi Brian
Got your drawing thankyou. Been working on some hatches and bits, heres the latest pic.
Glen
(http://s1.postimage.org/2garc20n8/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2garc20n8/)
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Hi Glen
Like the hinges. At the moment mine do not have the bottom part of the hinge. I thought 3 x 3 mm. for the top part was small enough. {:-{ I will put the handles on after they are painted.
I have had a lot of fun with the refraction disk and the rest of the main mast. That's what it is all about. %%
The disk is not up to the standard of yours but has turned out quite reasonable after a lot of work.
What is the aerial on the top of the mast?
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Hi Brian
The arial on the very top is warlock, not completely sure about warlock but think it is just a directional radio receiver.
The one under it is the pic you have up, it is prism 3 another directional finder, but radars i think.
I have just been told here at work that they are going to be removed soon as no longer viable.
Glen
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Hi Brian
Hope this pic helps :-)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2th4nfnwk/aerials.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2th4nfnwk/)
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I'm so glad you are leading the way on this. It is very helpful and informative.
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Hi Glen
Back to the drawing board. :((
The mountings look a bit different from the one I drew up and made yesterday. <:(
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Great job on the models guy's, they really are spectacular. Ever since I started watching sea patrol I've loved the look of these vessels. I've been planning on doing a 3d version of the armidale class, but haven't been able to find much material. Would any of you be able to help me out? Thinking a photo of the plans or something like that.
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If you are thinking of computer renderings, there are already some on the web of Armidale.
If you want to build one, Steve Batcheldor a.k.a. sjbatche, has plans and a 1:50 fibreglass hull for sale and I have done some detail drawings. (send a pm)
Allan Pew also does a 1:72 hull.
Not sure how you would go for postage though.
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already in the middle of a build. Although I'd like to make a real model, that would just be too expensive right now, so I'll have to do with a 3d model.
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Hi Brian
Been working on the mast above the refraction dish :(( not much fun had at this stage. Will try the warlock bits shortly and see how it looks.
A pic of the boat before it went in the spa for some more bowthruster trials.So far so good :-) No water leaks around the bowthruster. May have to start on some Fxle details soon, its starting to look bare up the front.
(http://s3.postimage.org/tiqwco04/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tiqwco04/)
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Hi Glen
I have had fun with the top of the main mast. I enjoy the 'fiddly bits' %%
I just wish my hands were still nimble. :((
Sorry about the colour. The photo was taken under a normal light.
The bits are only pushed into place and there is a lot more work to do and yes the light does work but I do not think I can install 2.
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Glen, your boat is looking excellent :-))
Brian, a very neat piece of work, it puts mine to shame <:(
Peter.
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Hi all
Another pic, this one of the liferaft cradles, will need some liferafts soon Steve :-)
(http://s1.postimage.org/6b792sck/life_raft_cradle_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6b792sck/)
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Hi Glen
I have a few parts cast including the life raft containers. The photo shows the progress on parts so far.
(http://s2.postimage.org/b05p1kx0/IMG_34315.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b05p1kx0/)
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Hi Steve
Nice work there. What are the parts in the bottom right corner below the bollards? Silly me OCCABA stowages ?? Let me know when you have a set together and i will buy them from you.
Glen
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Me tooooo. O0
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Hi All
Been playing with the bridge deck rails, what a pain in the !!!!!!! Any ideas to simplify the process would be greatly appreciated as i am thinking of ripping these out and trying again.
Glen
(http://s3.postimage.org/2xliilshw/005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2xliilshw/)
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For the stanchions, styrene is the easiest to use but brass wire is probably better for the rails as it stays straighter.
If someone wants to etch brass stanchions I would be happy to buy some.
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Looks ok to me. I use a candle in a drink can, to apply gentle heat to the styrene to form bends etc.
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Heres one for you Brian, Ararat high and dry.
Glen
(http://s3.postimage.org/d2wtkwuc/002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d2wtkwuc/)
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Thanks Glen
Just hope she does not fall over although at one of the commissioning ceremonies there were an awefull lot of people on the deck when the boat was still on the slipway. It looks most unsafe.
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Hi All
The latest shot showing some work on the gunplinth stuff.
Glen
(http://s4.postimage.org/816f6q1w/004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/816f6q1w/)
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Coming along nicely. O0 O0
What paint and colour did you use? Since you can see the full size ones I presume it matches. <*<
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Hi Brian
They keep telling me Storm grey and Pewter so I got some spray cans of stormgrey made up for me and they are no where near the colour, i am trying some Tamiya paints at the moment and they seem to be the closest thing i can find to the boats. Apart from the black the other colours are a satin or semigloss so it explains why the boats look so faided. :-)
Glen
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Got some parts from Steve in Wagga yesterday, Beautiful work. Liferafts and cradles look good to me. :-)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1zzdujox0/005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zzdujox0/)
Very impressed with your work Steve, just need to get some davits happening soon to put the rhibs on.
Got my storm grey and pewter mixed up at bunnings in a semigloss to the aus standards, perfect. :-)
Glen
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It's looking great, Glen, and Steve's parts are marvellous.
Peter.
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Finaly managed to put the main mast together.
Still a few problems.
One, the top light is very pale. I probably need to improve the connections.
A few holes to fill in.
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:-)) well done brianb6.......I admire soldered brass constructed components with crisp detail............ O0
Prior to painting....you could try soaking the assembly in a weak solution of acetic acid.......... >>:-( <*< but only for a short period of time
This soaking & light brushing with an old toothbrush is to remove any flux residue...or grease from handling etc............... Derek
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Great job, Brian, beautiful brass work :-)) O0
Peter.
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Goodness me, can now see why these boats are costing us a mint.
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Thanks people
I generally wash brass in concentrated "Parmolive" and use a toothbrush.
Not sure what it does to my hands but it cleans the flux off! {-)
I must get the deck on and then try the 'Rat' out on the water to see how she performs and how the water line is working out. %%
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Hi All
Here is the latest pic. :-) Adding some of the bits i got from Steve. Pretty impressed with the gun mount. :-)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1bhkfed2c/003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1bhkfed2c/)
Glen
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Steves parts look good Glen, I'm hoping he will do some for my 1:72 Armidale.
Boat is looking good in general. :-))
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I hope steve is going to offer, because they do look very good.
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Thank you for the parts, Steve.
I had some fun today making the mountings for the Sat. domes. O0
The distance between the roof and the underside of the domes is 10 mm.
The Sat-tel dome support is not quite right, I am sure, but I could not get any clear photos of the full size one. <:(
They still need finishing off.
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Hi Brian
The stbd side dome looks ok, here is a pic showing the port side that has a cone sort of thing underneath. Hope it helps.
(http://s3.postimage.org/1ppkl2x8k/DSC00869.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ppkl2x8k/)
Glen
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Hi Glen
In hindsight I should have made the bottom shape in epoxy filler and then cut it to fit the supporting fins.
Now I have to fill in between the fins which will be more difficult and not as neat. {:-{
My original reasoning was that the 'filling' does not go all round the dome and appears to finish at the curved fins. It is not visible on the rear view.
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Looks like I'm getting a ride on board Bundie this Sat. Any photos needed?
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Thousands. O0 :embarrassed:
Lucky lad.
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Is it just a rumour, or are the Armidales, due to be replaced by multi purpose vessel under construction? <:(
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The Australian Customs Service is having built a modified Armidale Class by Austal over in Perth. This may be the source of the 'multi-purpose' vessel. The ACS boats will be Bay Class vessels.
It seems to be a management process where the aluminum boats are replaced at around the 7yr mark. Not sure how old the first ACPB.
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It seems to be a management process where the aluminum boats are replaced at around the 7yr mark. Not sure how old the first ACPB.
The first of the class, HMAS Armidale (ACPB 83), was commissioned on 24th June 2005, and the last, HMAS Glenelg (ACPB 96) on 22nd February 2008.
More info here http://www.navy.gov.au/Armidale_Class (http://www.navy.gov.au/Armidale_Class)
Peter.
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Sorry Trooper {:-{
The new Customs boats will be the 'Cape' class, The 'Bays' are the existing ones.
8 to be built starting in 2012. Slightly bigger than the Armidales and no big gun at the moment.
Only renderings on the Austral website;-
http://www.austal.com/en/media/media-releases/11-08-12/Austal-Awarded-Cape-Class-Patrol-Boat-Contract.aspx
There has been no discussion on a replacement for the Armidales, as far as I know, and the Navy would surely require more than 7 years service from them. :embarrassed:
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Thanks guys, it looks like the media got it "right" ? once again.
Obviously mixed up Customs with RAN >>:-( >>:-(
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Mmmm! Made a spare mast. I wonder if it would fit? <*<
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Oops, yep Cape Class. Been on a few of the xxxxx Bay Class Boats, and begood to see a larger and hopefully more stable boat.
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Latest pic of some work on the port bridge wing. :-)
(http://s7.postimage.org/5vhznrepj/003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5vhznrepj/)
Glen
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Coming on nicely Glen.
I suppose I should add my latest bit.
I bought a 21 mm. ball bearing to fit inside the gun base for $5.50 which I thought was quite reasonable.
The gun will now turn with the slightest effort. ;D
However work has come to a halt as we had 75 mm. of rain two nights ago which resulted in my workshop and my wifes studio being flooded by 17 cm. of dirty water. <:(
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Mind you, our latest family arrivals were well above the water line. %%
Proud father showing off 4 of his 5 offspring. %%
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Have you done any more Glen ?
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Hi Dicky
havent done too much to the boat latley, been out chasing gold before the wet season gets here. Once the rains start then i will get back into the model.
Glen
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Hi Brian
Whats the chance of you whipping up a brass barrel for me when you have a spare minute??? Looks great :-)
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Hi Glen
How far back do you need to go?
I made mine in several pieces. Thin part of the barrel, thicker part, Sight? all in brass. All turned on my big Makita drill held in the vice. I used files to get the profiles.
Not the best way to use a drill!!!
The rest was made in perspex and the sight support in car body filler.
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Is this ok?
Where it fits into the rest of the barrel is 2 mm. dia. I can reduce it a bit.
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Hi Brian
The barrel is all I am chasing.
Cheers Glen
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Is this ok?
Where it fits into the rest of the barrel is 2 mm. dia. I can reduce it a bit.
Brian,
Looks like I have found another use for my Makita
:-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Take the cuts very lightly or you may damage the bearings, they are not meant for much side load. <:(
You may find it easier to run the drill backwards. I can reverse the direction without removing the drill from the vice.
I have some favourate fine files from Bunnings (B & Q for those up the other way) and 1/2 round needle files. They need to be cleaned of swarf every now and then with a miniature wire brush.
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Brian,
Thanks for the advice, my Makita is a heavy duty two speed hammer drill.
Nonetheless good advice.
:-)) :-))
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brians barrel on Steves gunmount. :-))
(http://s14.postimage.org/rzmn47kt9/004_4.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rzmn47kt9/)
Glen
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The sight? on mine was just a piece of brass wire and very thin tubing.
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Sight???
Please explain?
Glen
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I am not sure what it is.
Telescope, Laser sight, thing a me jig? {-)
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Hi brian
the tube directly above the barrel I BELIEVE is part of the recoil mechanism. I will try to find out for sure.
Glen
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Glen,
While you are at it can you find out, get a photo, how they watched the fall of shot on video.
Not a good reference, but the TV series when showing the main gun in action, showed it being trained remotely by video and the fall of shot showing up on the video monitor.
Thank you.
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I think it was faked for TV. ;D Most of the bridge and interior action was done in the studio according to the blurbs.
I presume the video camera is on the side of the gun mounting.
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Brian,
Thank you. That's clearer :-)) :-))
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Hi All
yeh there is a camera on the side of the gun, there is also the EOD (Electronic Observation Device) on the bridge roof that they use to aim at targets. The EOD also has infared for searching at night, impressive for picking up MOB. EOD is the dark grey unit right infront of the searchlight and radar.
I have seen footage of a gun shoot and you can see the fall of shot. The control station in the bridge has two monitors, one for the gun camera and one for EOD. EOD locks onto the target and then you can slave the gun to EOD.
Glen
(http://s14.postimage.org/5r88c3m8d/003_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5r88c3m8d/)
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Glen,
Interesting stuff, Thanks for that.
Modern version of fire control.
In the fifities Fire Control Radar (Anti-Aircaft) Locked onto and tracked the target and then the guns were 'tracked' onto taget by following the Radar pointers mounted on the guns.
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I had to redo the bonnet vents :(( and got the side light brackets on, Brian I believe they are called carpenter boxes!!!
(http://s12.postimage.org/ar2bu5vbt/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ar2bu5vbt/)
Glen
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I can sympathise with having to redo parts one thought were finished. I made the first set of carpenters boxes at the wrong scale! >>:-(
Does anyone know a cure for cramped fingers from holding a soldering iron for too long?
My index finger completely locked up after making 8 bollards. <:( still 4 more to go. :-) {-)
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Got some plastic ladders from FloatABoat today :-) Fitted one to the bridge aft. IM Happy with it.
(http://s12.postimage.org/s8cep5v6h/001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s8cep5v6h/)
Glen
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It looks good Glen.
How long do we have to wait for the others ? {-)
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Nice build, what would we aussies do without Float-a-Boat ?
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Gee Thanks Dicky :D I work on it when I get a chance in between work, fishing, camping, prospecting for gold and woodworking. %%
The weather is the main factor this time of year on what hobby gets the most attention. %%
Cheers Glen :-)
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Ok here is another pic for you dicky. :-)
(http://s11.postimage.org/wxxr01rnz/001.jpg)[/urlt
glen (http://postimage.org/image/wxxr01rnz/)
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Very nice Glen, but yours is 1:50 scale. {-)
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Hi Dickie
Cornwall Model Boats have:-
Rung Ladder Brass 250x6mm
Ladder - Brass - Stamped - Width 6mm, Length 250mm
That might work.
Probably available at other model shops
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Hi Dickie
Cornwall Model Boats have:-
Rung Ladder Brass 250x6mm
Ladder - Brass - Stamped - Width 6mm, Length 250mm
That might work.
Probably available at other model shops
When was the last time you checked out my build Bri ? http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=32731.50
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Ow! <:(
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Thought I better add another pic before Dicky bags me out again for taking so long!!! %%
(http://s16.postimage.org/gallaw1jl/006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gallaw1jl/)
Glen
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Glenelg is certainly looking the part and much further along than Ararat.
At the moment it is 45% preparation, 45% perspiration and 10% application and waiting for the paint to dry. {:-{
Hopefully the stanchions should arrive this week, then the "fun" begins. {-)
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Thought I better add another pic before Dicky bags me out again for taking so long!!! %%
(http://s16.postimage.org/gallaw1jl/006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gallaw1jl/)
Glen
Who, me ?
What about a larger photo next time ? (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
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Hopefully the stanchions should arrive this week, then the "fun" begins. {-)
Stanchions ? It hasn't got separate stanchions, they are part of the handrails, thats cheating. I soldered mine (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/blackeye2.gif)
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Eat your heart out. :embarrassed:
I suppose that must be a scottish penny. I don't suppose it is included in the parcel! %%
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NICE Brian
Are you going to chop the top off the stanchions? As they dont actually wrap around the top rail???? ;D
(http://s18.postimage.org/rq8zkg6px/vent_stbd_side.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rq8zkg6px/)
Glen
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Yes, I will have to cut the tops off.
I origionaly thought that it would be a good idea to be able to easily line the top rail up, but now I am not so sure.
I may be able to do it 'in-situ' but I fear that I will have to trial fit them, then remove them and smooth them, off the boat.
This is the first time that I have ordered etched brass and perhaps I should have asked more questions. {:-{
After all, that's what Mayhem is all about! O0
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(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/ROFL_C1.gif)
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<*<
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Hey Dicky!!! LOVE your response :D
I have attached a pic for you both :-) but you have already done your rails Hey Dicky!!! ;D
(http://s9.postimage.org/7dinejugb/stanchion.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7dinejugb/)
Glen
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Mine are not completely accurate, at 1:72 very awkward.
But at least I did not buy stanchions [wish I had].(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/crying2.gif)
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been making my stanchions so far for the bridge deck BUT may look at another way of making them yet!
Glen
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Should have asked you for their shape first. <:(
Kim at Clyde Model Boats can etch you some if you are interested.
Do you have any photos of the "gates" at various spots around the deck please?
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Just went through all my pics Brian and Dont have any showing the gates. Might have to get back down the base during the week and see if i can get some more. ;)
(http://s7.postimage.org/vymdly7iv/007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vymdly7iv/)
Glen
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Hi Brian
I have had a quick look through my Armidale photos and I have found a few of the different gates.
(http://s14.postimage.org/pkj06h531/gate1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pkj06h531/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/pjay63bif/gate2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pjay63bif/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ox0uirtb9/gate3.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ox0uirtb9/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/7uhblfrhv/gate4.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7uhblfrhv/)
I hope that these help.
Steve
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Thanks Steve
That's exactly what I need. O0
At least I know what the shape is and what's happening with the hinges and supports.
None of Alans photos show the gates clearly.
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Ok
Can i throw a spanner in the works!!!
Please dont be too harsh on me but been trying to sort angles out for the fairleads on the Quarterdseck. cutting some plastic tube but HAVING heaps od problems getting the pieces to match up!! without sanding it all :((
Glen
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I HATE mitred corners. >>:-(
My wife is always on at me to make her some picture frames but so far, I have managed to resist.
I agree with Glen, I am not looking forward to the fairleads. {:-{ :((
Maybe another project for Steves casting? %%
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:-) :-) :-)
Think i got these angles sorted for the fairleads. :embarrassed:
Will put a pic up when i get some done. :-)
Glen
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Four days to sort out the angles, how long to do the job Glen ? (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
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If it is any consolation I have been working, on and off, on the davits for a month and they are still only pieces on the bench. {:-{ :((
The inward 'lean' in two directions has been putting me off! :D
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Still got a couple of bits to put on my davits when I get the RHIBs but the davits took me half a day to make.(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/tumb.gif)
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Brave man. :embarrassed:
I have been fideling with the stanchions now that I have got them. %%
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Good On Ya Dicky.
If I didnt have to work to pay the bills I might be able to spend more time on the boat but then there is the woodwork stuff happening and going bush each weekend looking for that other HAND OF FAITH (876 ounce Gold nugget found in 1980 with a metal detector). %% SO when i find that I can spend ALL day doing models and the missus can go to work. :-))
Until then I will just keep plodding away at the model when I can. :-)
P.S. My partner Fiona wants to know where you get the large emoticons from??
Glen
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Hi Glen, tell Fiona that I find an emoticon that I like and I save it to my pictures and then download onto a file in Photobucket. They soon accumulate. (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/taz.gif)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/tumb.gif)
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OK
hello all, back on line :-)
here is the latest pic.
(http://s10.postimage.org/5u3ynyz39/007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5u3ynyz39/)
Glen
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Glen.........Fiona can also try this WEB link........Derek
http://www.clicksmilies.com/index.html .......... %% ......
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More basin trials (spa)
Happy with the performance of the bowthruster. :-)) Just need to find somewhere for some full noise trials.
(http://s13.postimage.org/uo2f1etcj/006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uo2f1etcj/)
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Nice boat, no davits ?
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Havn't you heard of the Australian crawl.
We are all such good swimmers we don't need lifeboats! {-)
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Havn't you heard of the Australian crawl.
We are all such good swimmers we don't need lifeboats! {-)
:-)) :-)) :-)) {-) {-) {-)
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The davits are overrated Dicky. :-) They only use the boats for boardings and Pax transfers.Its an interesting ride hopping in the boat and then being launched over the side!!!
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Hi Glen
I notice that the last posts were on April fools day. %%
Are you having us on that she works? :embarrassed:
Any photos of her underway?
And what has happened to Steves and Troopers boats?
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Hi Brian
Havent heard anything from Steve or Trooper lately.
No it wasnt an april fools day thing, I havent got any pics of it running yet as i have been too busy trying to find a new job. :((
The company I worked for no longer works on the Armidales as they were asked to leave the base after the fitters dropped a prop off a boat in the hardstand so could be quite a while before i see another Armidale. >>:-(
Will try and get some pics of it running soon
Glen
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You could try Hart Marine in Mornington. %%
I am thinking of their pilot boat 'Ranger 3' for my next attempt.
They are not far from us and the boat is based at Flinders, just down the Mornington Peninsular.
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Hi all
it has been a while, lovely dry season now coming to an end. I got out last weekend with the boat for some trials finally. Hope this bit of video works.
Glen
http://youtu.be/YktV7F7lz2w (http://youtu.be/YktV7F7lz2w)
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Looks real nice. Did you get the ball?
My Rat is on hold until I get some materials. In the meantime my tug is in dry dock having a refit after 30 years.
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Very nice Glen, but where are the RHIBS ?
Although mine is finished it hasn't been in the water yet.
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Great work Glen.
Love the video of your model on the water. It looks like it performs very well.
I have recently put my latest 1/72 Armidale on the water for the first time. It is fitted with a couple of small brushless motors and it performs much better than my original model with the brushed motors. I have now ordered a couple of brushless motors and speed controllers to fit into my 1:50 Armidale. Hopefully they will give it a good turn of speed.
Steve
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Hi Steve
Not sure if you need brushless unless to reduce weight.
Mine is way over scale speed with the two JP 480's on 7.2 volts.
Almost unstable when flat out and the motors are quite cheap.
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I have 2 brushed motors and a 6v 4ah SLA battery in mine, and its top speed is way too fast. It looks much more realistic at just over half throttle.
Peter.