Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: aslo44 on May 17, 2011, 05:00:24 pm
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Hi, I'm a newbie looking for advice on renovating a 47" huntsman that I recently bought. There is no super structure and the deck needs to be sorted.
I've searched the forum to find information on the position of the prop and rudder on this size but can only find the smaller 34" info. The single prop
on this hull is 225mm from the transom and the rudder is 155mm from transom . and to me they seem a long way forward compared to other model
boats. Can anyone please advise me on this ? Also where the shaft comes into the hull it isn't high enough to connect the 850 motor, so would it be
ok to add a smaller length shaft to the original using coupllings ? I hope I don't have to move the whole thing to the rear. Any help and advice would
be great thanks in advance. Alan.
P.S. a few pics.
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You could use a drop down Belt pulley set.Depending on size you could extend the prop shaft by replacing as
youve said with a longer shaft. Im sure that MMB would make you a shaft to length either 4mm or 5mm
to accept current prop range.The bushes in your tube would need to be drilled as req. John.
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You could use a drop down Belt pulley set.Depending on size you could extend the prop shaft by replacing as
youve said with a longer shaft. Im sure that MMB would make you a shaft to length either 4mm or 5mm
to accept current prop range.The bushes in your tube would need to be drilled as req. John.
Thanks John, I was hoping I could just extend the shaft using a 100mm or so shaft connected
to my existing shaft using universal joint, but like I said" I'm a newbie" so I'll take whatever advice I can get.
Have you any advice on the position of the prop and rudder on the hull, thats my main concern. Thanks for your answer.Alan
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i will have a look later as ive got a set of the precedent instruction sheets along with some templates for the 46" version . my own models of huntsman are all the smaller 34" versions
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i will have a look later as ive got a set of the precedent instruction sheets along with some templates for the 46" version . my own models of huntsman are all the smaller 34" versions
Cheers triumphjon, much appreciated.I hope to make a decent boat out of what there is so I'll need all the help I can get. Alan
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i will have a look later as ive got a set of the precedent instruction sheets along with some templates for the 46" version . my own models of huntsman are all the smaller 34" versions
Aye i know you do because i mailed them to you! they are however designed for a 47" (46.5") huntsman 28 not a 31 so its best to keep that in mind if you wish to make that version.
the shafts location was designed for a Ic engine setup, that's why its so far back I relocated mine to the correct location and went to twin shafts, twin rudders running of twin 600's of 12v, she's got a reasonable cruising speed using 40mm x props.
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yes they were very useful roadrunner , hows your variant getting along ? i have the pair of templates that would allow building either a h31 aft cabin or h31 open cockpit . The instruction booklet has the propshaft exiting the hull 16" from the transom and the rudder at 4 1/2 " from the transom ! like roadrunner ive opted to build both of my huntsmans & my spear with twin shafts in the same positions as on the full sized vessels . another good source of reference photos is the fairey owners page on facebook !
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My shafts exited i think top of my head 5" from the stern rudder 1" from the stern if memory serves, this gave the right proportion to the boat.
My only mistake was when building it was not to take into account the rear deck, which on a 28/huntress is supposed to be basically none existent where as i kept with the kits original form and left it making the boat a tad longer, so its ended up as a 'hybrid' (although really it was a right cock up!) the mistake however was that i changed my plan mid point by then the hull was fitted together leaving little room to fix the issue without stripping back a few weeks work, needless to say i hate doing that, so left it but i think it looks rather ok,
You do have to remember with the Fairly Range that many purchased did end up converted in some way or the other, im just putting mine down to owners preference to have a rear deck, which also worked out well given that the ladder support is in place which some of them had, where as others had some turning fins/water brakes which ever you want to call it.
What i should point out is i used twin 8" shafts which at the right angle to take a 40x prop fitting nicely through the central bulkhead allowing for the motors to fit in the hull even when the lower internal deck drops its a close fit but it worked out well!,
Mind you i did see a huntsman converted on ebay the other day to umm a 'mega yacht' pretty badly done to be fair but these hulls are versatile so you can build anything on the top if you wish.
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28319.0;attach=93388;image)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LUXURY-POWERED-MODEL-CRUISER-PACIFIC-PRINCESS-/110664428526?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item19c41d2bee#ht_871wt_905 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LUXURY-POWERED-MODEL-CRUISER-PACIFIC-PRINCESS-/110664428526?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item19c41d2bee#ht_871wt_905)
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from Vic Smeed,s 1 1/2" - ft plan (1/8 scale), shaft angle is approx 13 degrees :-)
(http://s4.postimage.org/30hpajvms/P1010001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/30hpajvms/)
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My shafts exited i think top of my head 5" from the stern rudder 1" from the stern if memory serves, this gave the right proportion to the boat.
My only mistake was when building it was not to take into account the rear deck, which on a 28/huntress is supposed to be basically none existent where as i kept with the kits original form and left it making the boat a tad longer, so its ended up as a 'hybrid' (although really it was a right cock up!) the mistake however was that i changed my plan mid point by then the hull was fitted together leaving little room to fix the issue without stripping back a few weeks work, needless to say i hate doing that, so left it but i think it looks rather ok,
You do have to remember with the Fairly Range that many purchased did end up converted in some way or the other, im just putting mine down to owners preference to have a rear deck, which also worked out well given that the ladder support is in place which some of them had, where as others had some turning fins/water brakes which ever you want to call it.
What i should point out is i used twin 8" shafts which at the right angle to take a 40x prop fitting nicely through the central bulkhead allowing for the motors to fit in the hull even when the lower internal deck drops its a close fit but it worked out well!,
Mind you i did see a huntsman converted on ebay the other day to umm a 'mega yacht' pretty badly done to be fair but these hulls are versatile so you can build anything on the top if you wish.
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28319.0;attach=93388;image)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LUXURY-POWERED-MODEL-CRUISER-PACIFIC-PRINCESS-/110664428526?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item19c41d2bee#ht_871wt_905 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LUXURY-POWERED-MODEL-CRUISER-PACIFIC-PRINCESS-/110664428526?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item19c41d2bee#ht_871wt_905)
Thanks roadrunner, I will probably create my own superstructure (not too far from the original) as I don't have the plans for it. My main worry was position of prop and rudder
I don't fancy trying to take the old ones out as they were put in with loads of glue and whatever else they used (as you can see in the pics)
triumphjon has stated that the instruction book says 16" from transom for prop and 41/2" for rudder, mine are about that so I might just take a risk and leave them. Thankyou all for
your input. Alan
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Alan, ask John (triumphjon) to mail you the templates i drew up for him for the cabin and rear deck section, this way you have some basics to go off, sure he can mail you my hard work at the cost of a stamp! :-)) if not pm me an address and i will send you a new set from my originals
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roadrunner the offer has been made via pm ! ive managed to get my own huntsman31 onto the water , the twin 777 motors are running well on 14 volts , just have to play with props now !
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Alan, ask John (triumphjon) to mail you the templates i drew up for him for the cabin and rear deck section, this way you have some basics to go off, sure he can mail you my hard work at the cost of a stamp! :-)) if not pm me an address and i will send you a new set from my originals
Thanks Roadrunner, for the offer but Jon has already made me the offer. Much appreciate the help from both of you. Alan
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I have decided to plank over the plywood deck of this boat with mahogany strips. Can anyone advise me on the best adhesive to use? I was thinking contact adhesive but it can be a bit tricky with shaky hands LoL. Any help
please?
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Wood glue works well, there are some quick grab ones out there, depending on the size of the planks ( for the 47" 6mm planking is best for scale) you can pin it in place with some needle pins while the glue dry s.
As a suggestion the original boats were planked with lime which greys over time, and used walnut as the trim. (its also cheaper to buy then mahogany)
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Wood glue works well, there are some quick grab ones out there, depending on the size of the planks ( for the 47" 6mm planking is best for scale) you can pin it in place with some needle pins while the glue dry s.
As a suggestion the original boats were planked with lime which greys over time, and used walnut as the trim. (its also cheaper to buy then mahogany)
Hi roadrunner, nice of you to keep on coming to my assistance. Unfortunately I have already ordered 1/4" mahogany strips along with 1/16" bass strips to go between them.
I um med and arrred over the width of planking for ages and settled on 1/4" I thought it better to be a bit narrow than a bit wide ( then again I am new to this)
I already have some Evostic waterproof PVA is that the kind of thing you mean? By the way I got those templates for the cabins off Jon today so thanks for your involvement in those.
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No worries bud.. evil stick works well, i use a pva exterior wood glue from my local hardware store so its unbranded but it works just as well and anything else.
When glueing the planks on start with the central 'king plank' and work outwards, in a diagonal pattern ( i say diagonal as this is what the 'planked dec huntsman had but your free to plank straight) the wood glue gives plenty of work time so get the central plank accurate or it will show up errors as you get further to the edge, pin in each plank with a needle pin, or drawing pin either works once the planks in the right place, this also allows you to continually plank rather then wait for the glue to go off.
I've uploaded some photos of the way the real decks are planked, and one as the race version were with a painted deck so you can see the variety's between them.
If you have any issues with the templates give me a PM since i drew those ones up i know exactly how they fit, they will however leave you with an inaccurate rear end having a raised rear deck which the originals never did, something i have to live with, but the final effects i think are quite good, as this does leave more room for the rudder to work ( which mind were located right at the back! I will try to upload some photo's of my build in those areas later this evening if the kids settle quick tonight.
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re decks , should be planked in teak , as per full sized ones ! ive done mine in teak veneer which i cut into 5mm wide strips , just didnt knotch the king planks . there are some very good close up shots on tales from the boat yard "mirak " site . scott is presently replacing all of the deck planks on his huntsman 31 following a very long restoration ! my planks are held down with medium cyno , the caukling is black thread or shearing elastic . jon
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Hi Jon, thanks for the templates got them this morning just waiting for materials now. I've chosen to attempt to plank mine in mahogany and bass strips (just my choice) after all there are that many variations on this boat I haven't
seen two look alikes yet even the three above are all different. I want to put my mark on this one as it's my first rebuild and as long as it looks reasonable on the lake I'll be happy. I'm very grateful for all your help and advice and I hope you don't stop helping me if I do deviate a little from your advice. This may read like a whinge but believe me it isn't. Regards Alan.
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the lower two photos above are actually both planked in teak , the first being freshly planked , while the last photo ( a huntsman 28 ) was planked much longer ago , teak fades to a pale grey if not oiled often ! however its your model so you may plank her in whatever material you see fit , advise will still be freely given . enjoy your restoration
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Some were teak some were lime as i found out, i decked mine with lime and a maple trim to match what i was working too, don;t forget many boats were customised or re-vamped to the owners spec including the deck, many were old race boats which were converted using cheaper materials in some cases.
Variations through out the range i don;t think it matters to much, my decks still as clean and shiny as first constructed, will take many many years of wear before it greys up, but having the surface oiled helps keep it fresh.
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the lower two photos above are actually both planked in teak , the first being freshly planked , while the last photo ( a huntsman 28 ) was planked much longer ago , teak fades to a pale grey if not oiled often ! however its your model so you may plank her in whatever material you see fit , advise will still be freely given . enjoy your restoration
Cheers Jon, good to know mate. Alan
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Some were teak some were lime as i found out, i decked mine with lime and a maple trim to match what i was working too, don;t forget many boats were customised or re-vamped to the owners spec including the deck, many were old race boats which were converted using cheaper materials in some cases.
Variations through out the range i don;t think it matters to much, my decks still as clean and shiny as first constructed, will take many many years of wear before it greys up, but having the surface oiled helps keep it fresh.
Thanks roadrunner, trouble is I had already ordered the materials before you posted so I am committed they cost too much for me to order another lot. Not to worry I'll take some photo's of progress when I make some. Keep the advice coming in I will need loads only started in the model boats about 3 months ago ( a bit long in the tooth really )Regards Alan
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I decided I wanted to curve the planks, like the real thing, it was the first time I had done anything like this, and was a real bad job to do, but I was pretty happy when it was done. I used grey card for the caulking, then the thickness was consistant, and I could leave it proud, then rub down with the wood. I used alphitic glue for the planks, and uhu for the card. Bending was real difficlut, I took two pieces of mdf, cut one with a curve in it, attached one of these to a mdf base, soaked the plank in warm water over night, then put it in the curve,, using the other half of the cut sheet (if you know what I mean!) and gently "teased" it against the plank, which then followed the cut curve. Left to dry out, then the centre third had a reasonable curve to then apply to the deck. I used small blocks which where then nailed in place to hold the plank when it was glued. It took 3 nights to lay one piece :embarrassed:, before the next could be set, took 1 month just to do the planking!, but worth the effort now its done! Didnt have the expertise to attempt the joggling though. When done, it was all rubbed down using a flat edge, so the deck followed the lovely contour of the boat. I then used a wash to give it the weathered grey finish, but then the caulking was lost, so rubbed it all down again, and now just periodically oil it. Over time, it has weathered naturally and looks quite nice! hope that helps :-))
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Hi red181, your boat looks fantastic. I don't imagine I'll be trying to bend the planks though, I struggle with health and patience problems LoL.
I'm still working on the hull and running gear, there was only one prop fitted when I got the boat and it was well forward and not enough
space between the hull and the shaft to fit the motor. I have put a longer shaft and new prop on now and fitted the motor, just need to tidy
it all up a bit now. I still have to build the cabins yet as it didn't come with any, don't know which to build the 28 or 31 (28 looks easiest).
I bought in some 1/4 inch Mahogany planks and bass spacers but that was before I was advised to use Teak so I'll have to have a polished deck
I fancy having a unique boat, after all if they were all alike it wouldn't be the same and boring. Just hope mine looks a fraction as good as yours
I would be happy with that. Thanks for your help. Alan
(http://s3.postimage.org/p5zz3xfo/P1020201_Copy.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p5zz3xfo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/p64xpyx0/P1020204_Copy.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p64xpyx0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/p6bjvcw4/P1020206_Copy.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p6bjvcw4/)
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if its of interest six huntsman 31s were completed with open rear cockpits , which have a very similar appearance above the deck to the huntsman 28 ! often the racing versions didnt have planked decks but were of painted finish !
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if its of interest six huntsman 31s were completed with open rear cockpits , which have a very similar appearance above the deck to the huntsman 28 ! often the racing versions didnt have planked decks but were of painted finish !
Thanks Jon, I just think it might be a bit lighter if I go the 28 route. As for the planking LoL it cost me a small fortune so it has to be used. It will take me a while Jon but I'll get there
it's just a matter of it looking decent. If the MFA 850 motor isn't good enough I'll have to think about what you advised earlier and go for twin motors. Not to worry though it keeps me off the
streets and keeps my mind occupied. Cheers m8 for the input. Alan
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I would go with jon's idea of the open rear version of the 31, that would be a unique model. I always fancied doing a huntress with the fuel cans in the rear as in "from russia with love" :}
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red its nice to hear somebody else thinking of modelling some of the smaller vessels in the fairey range , i have intentions of making both the huntress and a hunt 18 , will need an outdrive leg for the hunt though !
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if its of interest six huntsman 31s were completed with open rear cockpits , which have a very similar appearance above the deck to the huntsman 28 ! often the racing versions didnt have planked decks but were of painted finish !
[/quot Jon, at the risk of sounding like an idiot what are the differences in the 31 and 28 ? I 've been under the illusion that it was just the layout of the deck and cabins. I can only put it down to my age and condition LoL. Every time I try to decide which layout to do I think for ages then I get fedup and say oh! ---t I'll sort it tomorrow. A few years ago I would've thought and planned about one day
and then do it straight out of my head but those days are gone.Thats why I appreciate all the help I get from the people on this forum. One more question Jon what thickness of ply to use on the cabins?
Alan
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length and beam are a major difference between the 28 and 31 , the numbers denote the overall length of the hull in feet . the hull is also a slightly different shape , most noticable in the bow area , the 28 having a sharper sheer where as the 31 has a greater flare . for my own models ive been making my cabin sides in 3 mm birch ply , although the section around the cockpit becomes thicker . what i now do is to use some strips of 3 mm on the inner faces of the cabin sides to form some " ducting " from the air intakes down to the cockpit floor , these are then hidden with an inner skin of 1.5 mm birch plywood .
(http://s2.postimage.org/2pt362jok/024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pt362jok/) visable before the inner skin has been added , the masking tape is covering the air intake hole in the outer skin !
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Yes the 28 has quite a dramatic upward flare from 3/4 up the hull at the bow to the deck tip, it really is quite dramatic, was designed like that to force water down & out wards when on rough water.
I would show you mine but unfortunatly the black paint job obscures the curvature, so you could'nt see it anyway {:-{ and i can't find the unpainted photo's which showed it very clearly, but John will be able to vouch for the shape on her as he's seen the photo's previously. 28 are also shorter and slimmer, so it becomes a whole new modification, basically with mine i took a 31 kit and modded it to take all the greatness of the 28 huntress & Swordsman
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Thank you to both of you I now understand the difference, and put it to good use. Where would I be without you LoL. Alan
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another variation was the fairey spear and spearfish , which was a hull moulded over the same huntsman 31 buck . but instead of hot moulded agba mahogany they used grp ! the spearfish being the open cockpit similar to the huntsman 31 open cockpit , while the spear had an enclosed wheelhouse .
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Hi, I took a few more photo's (not a great deal of progress but getting there) of my Huntsman rebuild. Decided to go without the rear cabin as in the open cockpit.
I've cut out the cabin and cockpit sides that I got from you Jon, but on this deck the openings are wider than the front windscreen so I will have to go a bit wider
than original template you sent me. It's the first time I've everdone any planking, infact it's the first time I've ever built a model of any sort. I used to fly RC planes
but they were already built for me. I started doing this hobby late in life to keep my mind active and get me out of the house at weekend. I'm enjoying it too. Alan
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x476d0is/P1020215.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x476d0is/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x4fg1qzo/P1020217.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x4fg1qzo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x4socixw/P1020219.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x4socixw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x5av9cdg/P1020221.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x5av9cdg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x5t265t0/P1020222.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x5t265t0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x69ljmqs/P1020225.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x69ljmqs/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x6g7p0pw/P1020227.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x6g7p0pw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1x6q4x3ok/P1020230.jog) (http://postimage.org/image/1x6q4x3ok/)
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Sorry about the thumbnails LoL, don't know what I did wrong. I you click on the red cross it should open Photo's.Alan
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theres no photos in either of your posts ? those are the templates as supplied to me , i made up some infill sections for the decking , but all of my models have fixed cabin sides with removable roof sections as ive found this helps to keep water out in heavy seas !
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The Photos are there
Clickon the red cross
Ned
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what red cross ?
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Is it another IE prob
I click on the 'No Pics Icon '
and the pics are there
Ned
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now you have lost me , i dont know where the pics are , i cant see any red crosses or a no pics option ?
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Thanks ned, I think I know what happened I used the spell checker and clicked change all instead of ignore all and so it changed the URL adresses. I'll have
another go at uploading them Jon. AlanIs it another IE prob
I click on the 'No Pics Icon '
and the pics are there
Ned
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:embarrassed:I'm trying again with the photo's Jon, let me know if you see them and thanks again for that tip about perminantly fixing sides and using removable tops
I can still go that route as I haven't made any of the inner deck yet. How have you fastened your tops on ? Are they hinged or screwed on? Alan.
Here goes with the photo's LoL.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1yokerug4/P1020215.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1yokerug4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1yopddvxg/P1020217.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1yopddvxg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1yovzj9wk/P1020221.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1yovzj9wk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1yp0y5bdw/P1020223.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1yp0y5bdw/)
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(http://s4.postimage.org/1ype6g3c4/P1020230.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ype6g3c4/)
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thats better we can see your work now ! my removable sections are just a tight fit in the cabin , however when i made the front window / cabin front section ive increased the timber thickness to 1/4 inch ply , this has allowed me to screw and glue the front to the sides . the cabin sides were made deep enough that they incorporate both the above deck section and the area that is below deck line .
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Hi, just layed the planks on the deck it still needs to be sanded and a few small areas to fill in to prepare for final finish.
Problem is I have only one mahogany plank left and I need about four to do the edging. I can carry on building the
cabins and side panels while I wait for them, still got lots to do before I take it to the lake. A couple of pics to show
stage of rebuild. Alan.
(http://s4.postimage.org/tqgqp44k/P1020244.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tqgqp44k/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/tqncui3o/P1020245.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tqncui3o/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/trspa6g4/P1020246.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/trspa6g4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/tsktf2uc/P1020248.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tsktf2uc/)
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Hi, if there is anyone still watching this tread can anyone advise on what materials to use for the splash screen on my cockpit?
Also instructions on how to shape and form it? Alan
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I've been watching.... the screen can be made from a 2L clear coke bottle or similar, the plastic materials perfect just slice it open and roll out and trace on the shape cut and glue in place, as for the shape, i will need to dig out my template but i can mail you a copy if you need it, pm me for that...
or you can just make a 'square' screen section from a ply frame and flat sheet clear plastic, a cd case or similar.
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my 31 has a custom fabricated frame from k & s brass square section that has had one edge removed , screen has been made in two halves !
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I have managed to get a little bit further with my rebuild and hopefully I will get it on the water in about two weeks (a bit ambitious knowing me LoL)
anyway a few more photo's
(http://s4.postimage.org/bzejglb8/P1020268.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bzejglb8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bzmt5bs4/P1020273.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bzmt5bs4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bztfapr8/P1020279.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bztfapr8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bzwqdeqs/P1020280.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bzwqdeqs/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/c001g3qc/P1020282.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/c001g3qc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/c01ozg84/P1020285.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/c01ozg84/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/c0d9qvok/P1020286.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/c0d9qvok/)
Quite a bit to do yet but I WILL get there LoL. Alan
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That is looking Great, very nice should go well just watch the weight as that is a killer of speed and an idea would be to make your comings higher with some lexan to keep the water out and not get in the way of the windows
Peter
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That is looking Great, very nice should go well just watch the weight as that is a killer of speed and an idea would be to make your comings higher with some lexan to keep the water out and not get in the way of the windows
Peter
Thanks Peter, I'm not quite sure what you mean by comings. Are they the edge around the access in the decking? What is lexan ? I'm new to model boats and this is my first attempt at rebuilding one so thanks for the advice. Alan
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Coamings are the raised edges to the deck openings
Lexan is a bit like perspex but better
Ned
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It looks like you are about to put a strip of ply on the inside edge of the hull deck opening , If you used Lexan (available cheap on ebay and can be cut and drilled ) and made it about 20mm above the deck so about 30 mm overall it would hold your superstructure on and stop any water comming over the deck getting inside the reason i said use lexan is that it would not show through the windows like ply would.
by the way I believe you are a mate of red181s
Peter
thanks netleyned
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Coamings are the raised edges to the deck openings
Lexan is a bit like perspex but better
Ned
Cheers ned, I did have a glimmer of idea thats what it meant (coamings) and Lexan I will have a look at , cheers Ned.
Alan
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It looks like you are about to put a strip of ply on the inside edge of the hull deck opening , If you used Lexan (available cheap on ebay and can be cut and drilled ) and made it about 20mm above the deck so about 30 mm overall it would hold your superstructure on and stop any water comming over the deck getting inside the reason i said use lexan is that it would not show through the windows like ply would.
by the way I believe you are a mate of red181s
Peter
thanks netleyned
Hi Peter, I did put some ply coamings on but I did it before the planking and didn't allow for the thickness of the planks (who's a plank ?) the coamings are about 1/4" high so might not be high enough,
mind you I will be sailing it on a small lake in reasonable weather. I'm just doing things as I go along I have no plans and the original builder wasn't into squareing things off or making it sometrical
wich makes things a little harder. I have yet to decide how to hold the super structure on securely, as I said nothing fits the way it should LoL. Are you a member of ST Helens sailing club ? Thats not too far from you is it ? Cheers Alan.
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Hi Peter,. Are you a member of ST Helens sailing club ? Thats not too far from you is it ? Cheers Alan.
NO Only a member of the very Good Liverpool Club these days.
Peter
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It looks like its coming on great chap, certainly moving along quicker than mine, have u decided on motor and electrics yet?
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It looks like its coming on great chap, certainly moving along quicker than mine, have u decided on motor and electrics yet?
Hi Rich, I'll be useing a torpedo 850 with a 55mm brass prop to start with, but I've kept the boat as light as I could.
As from yesterday I'm suffering from Gout in my right foot so I'll probably pain without gain LoL. Alan
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I have decided to go brushless with mine, got a 900kv motor and watercooled esc ready for it.. will you be running at St Helens as I look forward to seeing it running and would be good to see a few running together.
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I'm not a member at St Helens but I have been invited to use thier lake for a limited number of times so yes we could get together and I think red181 is fairly local to you
maybe he would bring his excellent model along. Alan
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Will get cracking on mine, yes Paul isnt far from here there is another guy there with a Huntsman 31 too. Have you made any progress with the upper screen, it something I still havent tried.
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Thats the next thing I'll be doing when this gout disappears, it came on yesterday and I'm in pain standing and walking.
I have had trouble with rushing the paint job so have to sort that as well. I've decided to use aluminium for round the
screen and windows, Hopefully I can cut them without joints ( each sheet is ten by four inches ) on thescroll saw. Alan
(http://s2.postimage.org/eu424h2c/P1020231.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eu424h2c/)
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I plan to have the window surrounds lazer cut, its the lexan screen uptop I worry about, may have a go at a paper template tomorrow. Sorry to hear about the gout, I know how painful that is.
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Hi Alan
Firstly thank you for your encouraging comment that you made in my other thread on the Huntsman 31. I’ve just been reading your topic and threads and you seem to be doing a splendid job of your deck. What a fascinating project and made much more interesting with the images you have put up.
You asked about rudder and prop tube position. Perhaps too late to answer but having just measured my boat, rudder tube centre is 115mm from transom. Prop tube exits the hull 415mm from transom. Prop tube end is 210mm from transom. Measurement from prop tube centre to hull bottom is 23mm. Aim for minimum angle.
Cheers
Craig :-))
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Thanks Craig, I've been told the measurements you have given me are for the IC motor
(which is what yours is) but my motor is electric and apparently the prop and rudder placement of electrically driven boats are different. I'll just have to try it as it is and if it needs
changing I'll go for twin motors or maybe brushless depending on the cash flow at that time LoL. Alan
Hi Alan
Firstly thank you for your encouraging comment that you made in my other thread on the Huntsman 31. I've just been reading your topic and threads and you seem to be doing a splendid job of your deck. What a fascinating project and made much more interesting with the images you have put up.
You asked about rudder and prop tube position. Perhaps too late to answer but having just measured my boat, rudder tube centre is 115mm from transom. Prop tube exits the hull 415mm from transom. Prop tube end is 210mm from transom. Measurement from prop tube centre to hull bottom is 23mm. Aim for minimum angle.
Cheers
Craig :-))
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Hi Alan
Sorry yes should have mentioned my measurements being for an IC motor.
Just on your deck planking, have you decided what you will be using to finish it?
Mine was finished with multiple coats of clear solvent based lacquer with the final coats thinned down.
All coats were applied with a quality camel hair brush. Each coat was left to properly harden before being cut back with 1000 grit wet and dry paper used wet.
If like me you have used a contact adhesive, it is especially important to ensure that the grain is fully sealed to prevent water ingress that could subsequently lift the edges of the planks.
An alternative finish could be an oil type cut back with steel wool between coats for a durable waterproof finish.
Craig
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Hi Craig, up to now I've put two coats of teak oil on but I will be putting another coat on before I sail. The trouble is I used mahogany instead of teak planks
didn't know till it was too late. AlanHi Alan
Sorry yes should have mentioned my measurements being for an IC motor.
Just on your deck planking, have you decided what you will be using to finish it?
Mine was finished with multiple coats of clear solvent based lacquer with the final coats thinned down.
All coats were applied with a quality camel hair brush. Each coat was left to properly harden before being cut back with 1000 grit wet and dry paper used wet.
If like me you have used a contact adhesive, it is especially important to ensure that the grain is fully sealed to prevent water ingress that could subsequently lift the edges of the planks.
An alternative finish could be an oil type cut back with steel wool between coats for a durable waterproof finish.
Craig
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I too used Mahogany (with sycamore) for the planking.
Personally I think it looks fantastic and to me that is all that matters.
However if strictly aming for true scale replication then I understand it might be a bigger issue. I guess it depends on what you are aiming for.
Cheers
Craig
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with reference to the windshield, mine is lexan, could easily have been made from thin plastic card, and it would have been quicker, and lighter, but I am a bit heavy handed so wanted something that would take some knocks. Its quite a complex shape, the curvature of the roof at the bottom of the screen, and the screen shape itself (remember mine is a 28, not 31)
So I made a cardboard template, fitted a false ply section on top of the superscructure for the screen to butt up against, bought some lexan and a heat gun, and made a form from an old biscuit tin and some old wood, heated the lexan up and teased it around the tin (and made a spare screen). It took a few goes, and it could be better. I bought some cheap plastic channeling from b & q for the screen frame, and using the heat gun formed that arouind the lexan, supergluing it on. I scrounged some off cuts of car window tint from a local supplier, and tinted the screen with this, and also did the cabin windows from inside, so all the gubbins inside the cabin isnt that visible.
The whole thing is held on with a home made plate either side, and 4 2mm bolts, so I can remove the screen in one piece for replacement if necessary, hope that helps :-))
(http://s4.postimage.org/bp0tsgis/Huntsman_windshield_template_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bp0tsgis/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bp5sei04/inside_bracket.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bp5sei04/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bpcejvz8/Huntsman_windshield_template_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bpcejvz8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bphd5xgk/bracket_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bphd5xgk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/bpj0p9yc/screen_template.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bpj0p9yc/)
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Hi Red181
Being someone that needs to finish my own Huntsman now that I know the internal mechanics work when on the water, I found your thread on the screen very helpful.
I like the way you have done this and set it up such that the screen can easily be removed if damaged.
Thank you for your contribution.
Cheers
Craig :-))
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Thanks Craig, the full build is documented on this forum, somewhere :embarrassed:
The screen is heavy, but I always seem to over engineer things!
Wait till we talk about making the air intake scoop things! My triumph! (With a lot of help I must add!)
Paul