Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: Meyer on May 25, 2011, 08:36:38 pm
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(http://s2.postimage.org/1zcfxfvz8/topaz_boiler_lagged.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zcfxfvz8/)
Hi, Here's my Topaz,!!! so far, just had a boiler made for it by Mike at Maccsteam, fits great, next job is to add brass bands, and silver solder the pipe connectons
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Roy, when you get to fitting the rc equipment, could I bring my Topaz over to you and show me what to do, since I don't have a clue about electronics?
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Looks great Roy, lots more pictures please. What engine are you using and what brand is the steam whistle? Thanks, Ian.
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(http://s3.postimage.org/33od5i8n8/Topaz_Stern.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/33od5i8n8/)
Hi IAN, Many thanks for post, I'm using a Max Hemmens Max 11 engine (from a Caton plant) I've been sorting out timing, the enginen, and fixed the water pump, its a great little engine,now !!! and an ideal size for the Topaz as space is very limited, All the timber work is now complete more or less,, The servos are in working, but there's too much throw on the engine servo, ( so job to sort out later,)
more pics to follow as work progresses.
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Hi Logoman,
Real sorry , servos are now in, !!! but it quite easy to fit,? I'm using 2.4 ghz radio gear, the main problem is get your angles right , for the amount of throw required, trial and error, but not too difficult, I'll try a get a pic for you o fthe engine servo and travel arm,
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(http://s2.postimage.org/2d84hxrc4/Topaz_engine_bay_2a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2d84hxrc4/)
Well here's an other pic of the engine bay, A point to note that Max 2 engine's steam globe valve (the wheel gets very hot and I've burned my fingers,!!!! so I was to change to a fretted wheel) but..,,, it is in ME thread size to 1/8th O/D pipe (slightly finer, than an a now std 1/4 Tpi thread,and that the ball is only 7mm compared with todays std of 11mm ? , which is too large for the engine, so I am drilling holes in the MH globe valve to release the heat,!!! hope it works.
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(http://s2.postimage.org/2em3uncmc/Topaz_pipework_1a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2em3uncmc/)
Hi Ian, here's an other pic, I've started pipping up, ready to silver solder the joints,
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(http://s2.postimage.org/2em3uncmc/Topaz_pipework_1a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2em3uncmc/)
Hi Ian, here's an other pic, I've started pipping up, ready to silver solder the joints, Oh, the whistle is sold by Alan at PPS Steam models, its a 1/4" x 40 tpi thread , and works best to be directly screwed into the boiler, (its very lound) this will be operated by a servo btoo,!!!
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(http://s3.postimage.org/33od5i8n8/Topaz_Stern.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/33od5i8n8/)
Hi IAN, Many thanks for post, I'm using a Max Hemmens Max 11 engine (from a Caton plant) I've been sorting out timing, the enginen, and fixed the water pump, its a great little engine,now !!! and an ideal size for the Topaz as space is very limited, All the timber work is now complete more or less,, The servos are in working, but there's too much throw on the engine servo, ( so job to sort out later,)
more pics to follow as work progresses.
(http://s3.postimage.org/iwe1np1g/Topaz_5aa.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iwe1np1g/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/197islu9w/TOPAZ_TOP_VIEW_SILVER_SOLDER_JOINTS.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/197islu9w/)
Well thats a good job done, !!! "Silver soldering up the pipe work, on the Max 11 engine the pump inlet pipe is very small bore" about 1mm ? which I've silver soldered to a brass cone and then silver soldered that to a 1/8 th bore pipe to fit on the boiler check valve, " very difficult to do without blocking up the micro bore pipe with solder,!!!. just need to silver solder the exhaust steam pipe to the chimney
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(http://s3.postimage.org/iwe1np1g/Topaz_5aa.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iwe1np1g/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/iwe1np1g/Topaz_5aa.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iwe1np1g/)
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(http://s3.postimage.org/1c42vrq84/Topaz_pump_inlet.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1c42vrq84/)
Here's the Max 11 three way bypass control pipe (very small) to mate up to the 1/8th o/d pipe to the check valve, very difficult to silver solder with blocking this small pipe with solder, !!!
OK job done, !!!
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(http://s2.postimage.org/nnx2erqc/Topas_engine_bay_almost_complete.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nnx2erqc/)
Here's the pic of the engine bay, almost complete, silver soldered the gas pipe and the steam inlet from boiler to engine, water pipe pump( inlet) to boiler check valve now done,
the small condenser tank has the steam exhaust pipe which will be attached to the chemney, I'm thinking of adding a globe valvethis tank, so it empty's under back pressure, and to pipe up the blowdown valve out let to 3/32 pipe to outside the starboard side.
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Nice work Roy...good shape on all thew copper pipe!
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(http://s4.postimage.org/1q0v878mc/Topaz_engine_bay_test_pic.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1q0v878mc/)
Almost ready, !!!! Test ran the engine today at 45 psi runs sweet as a nut, !!! safety valve set at 60 psi, the pump works well, and no leaks, all silver solder joins are fine, just need to do few more jobs and the Topaz will be ready for her maiden run, !!!
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(http://s3.postimage.org/2rwrbkio4/Topaz_oil_sep_tank.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rwrbkio4/)
Hi , Here's the steam/oil sep tank on the Topaz , I've added a 1/4 / 40 tpi thread globe valve, so this tank will empty on its own under back pressure" this is a great trick, as it saves having to take out the tank to empty it by hand !!!!
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Hullo Roy.......I cannot see from the photograph....but by adding the isolation valve to back pressure the de-oiler vessel...does that not imply that it could be subjected to full boiler pressure? {:-{ ....Derek
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(http://s4.postimage.org/98ybsp0k/TOPAZ_MAX_11_ENGINE.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/98ybsp0k/)
Hi , here's a close of my Max 11 engine for my Topaz
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Hi.. :-))...bot i dont think it is a Max 11 engine....i look to be a caton....i did one time have the same... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e2WVGvl-W0 and i have a max11 in my lady jane... it dont look to be just the same
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbLdNSBrb94
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy242VgNNWA
Regards Bernhard
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Hi Bernard, yrs your right , its a Caton engine, always get them mixed up cheers for that
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Hi Derek,
No problem with back pressure, the sep tank isolation valve is normally closed and only open, after steaming, and I'm going to add a further globe valve on the exhaust steam line on the chemney side , this valve will be close first before the valve on the sep tank is opened, I ran my other launch SL Lady Beatrice on this way, and ran for 21/2 years with no problems at all. done loads of tests with no problems.
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(http://s2.postimage.org/32htehhpg/TOPAZ_chemney_piping.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/32htehhpg/)
Hi, here's the chimney pipework now completed, just to add an inline globe valve,
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Are you going to paint the boiler, tanks etc?
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(http://s1.postimage.org/319zyg2bo/Topaz_test_steaming.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/319zyg2bo/)
Well nearly finish, prop coupling test, steam plant now installed, just a few jobs to do before maiden run on the water
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Well she certainly looks the part O0 ....congratulations Roy :-))............Derek
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Hullo Roy....spent 20 minutes looking at all of the engine/boiler build snaps this evening......loverly tidy work O0 ...but a question...
1. I see the manual steam isolation valve on the output of the boiler steam dome....& then another manual team isolation valve prior to the lubricator
2. I do not see any form of radio controlled steam regulator for engine speed....... :o or am I missing something?......Derek
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Hi Derek,
Thanks for your interest, the main work is complete now, I am just about to add the servos, you can see from the Caton engine close up pic, the the arm ( vertical lever) on the engine, is a piston control valve move this lever from centre (stop) to the left (reverse) and to the right (forward) it also has varable speed control too. so this will be R/c, controled together with the rudder and steam whistle,
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(http://s3.postimage.org/287364pms/Topaz_engine_bay_servo.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/287364pms/)
Hi , Well here's the Topaz engine servo, "there no space !!!! , its not easy fitting it in, with the arm travel not hitting on any of the woodwork, !!!, but it works, I might box it later, or even move to the living area, but its the angle of the wire to consider to do this, !!!
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Pardon my terrible drawing - but fast and "dirty" -- IS there enough room for a servo mounted sideways like this? Imagine the current orientation of the servo and then rotate it 180 degrees- then mount to the side of the bulwark...
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e199/mogogear/Topaz_engine_bay_servo.jpg)
Sorry to "horn " in %%
Always happy to see another Topaz getting back on the water!!
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Are you going to paint the boiler, tanks etc?
Not sure about that one, !!! I will not lagg with wood, but may be sprayed, might do it later on, !!!, thanks for post
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Have you tried it in the test tank yet?
Peter
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Have you tried it in the test tank yet?
Peter
I'm with you Peter, I can't wait to see this beauty afloat.
Neil
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(http://s4.postimage.org/2cfnkxktg/boiler_steam_control_valve_adding_ptfe_tape_to_stop_small_weep.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2cfnkxktg/)
well just a few little jobs left to do now, servos are in and working well, , I've now increased the working pressure to 60 psi, as the Caton engine works best at this pressure, and helps the mechanical pump output to the boiler and its a new boiler with test cert to cover this working pressure. just need to add a couple of globe valves on the engine and on on the exhaust steam line.
and hopeful to trial her maiden outing on the pond, very very soon
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(http://s4.postimage.org/2cjbvxcbo/topaz_realdy_to_trial.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2cjbvxcbo/)
well ready to trial, !!!
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(http://s2.postimage.org/279th2muc/Topaz_1a_on_the_Dam.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/279th2muc/)
Well at last, I trialed the launch at my club GMYPBC at Greenock Murdieston Dam, it was very choppy conditions, cross winds at 1p MPH, the Dam is very deep and not for the faint hearted.
running at 60 psi, the Caton engine worked at treat,
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(http://s4.postimage.org/2cfnkxktg/boiler_steam_control_valve_adding_ptfe_tape_to_stop_small_weep.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2cfnkxktg/)
well just a few little jobs left to do now, servos are in and working well, , I've now increased the working pressure to 60 psi, as the Caton engine works best at this pressure, and helps the mechanical pump output to the boiler and its a new boiler with test cert to cover this working pressure. just need to add a couple of globe valves on the engine and on on the exhaust steam line.
and hopeful to trial her maiden outing on the pond, very very soon
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I'm with you Peter, I can't wait to see this beauty afloat.
Neil
Hi Neil, Sailed my Topaz to day, I'm very pleased with her. ran at 60 psi, no problems, 10 MPH cross winds, Very choppy conditions, just a little extra ballast on port side, next time out,
see pic, Video on Youtube DELTA1DSV, I dropped the cam, so out of focus, will do better next time out, !!!
(http://s1.postimage.org/23jgcs64k/Topaz_1a_on_the_Dam.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/23jgcs64k/)
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Hi Roy congratulations on a beautiful job,but I have a question as to why the engine needs 60psi to perform satisfactory? as most of these small engines that I know of including my own run very well on 20 - 40 psi this is in no way a criticism
Cheers
John
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Yes John...I must agree a beautiful image Roy :-)).......but {:-{ when I zoom in I see literally ZERO freeboard amid ships & aft centre of the cabin....on the port side when windage/waves hit......
You have acknowledged the weather as "10 MPH cross winds & very choppy conditions" >>:-( one gust @ 12 MPH could have seen your Topaz sink...... <:(
I think you have more thought required on the vessel displacement or weather conditions............Derek %)
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Hi Roy, excellent build, congratulations, looks fantastic in the water
Mick
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yes it looks great,really choppy thought you're a brave man attempting a trial run in those conditions i only sail my windermere launch flat or nearly flat calm conditions and you will find it will look so much better ,i did notice in a other post you were going to use the anton engine and a mhb boiler in the topaz any reason why you changed but well done it looks great regards allan
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Hi Alan,
thanks for post, the Caton Engine runs so well now, as I run it 60 psi, and its a fast little worker, ideal in fact for the Topaz , I have decided to leave in, I'm going to build the Opal next, if I can find a hull from some were or a kit, what ever turns up first, I only ordered the Anton Cristal a couple of months ago, and was surprised to get so fast, Fabrice must be working over time, !!! no that a great little engine too.
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Roy what size prop have you used on the topaz,also i have sent you a pm regards Allan
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(http://s1.postimage.org/2f5s0iex0/TOPAZ_PROP.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2f5s0iex0/)
Hi Allan,
Topaz prop is 21/2" dia by Prop shop, I like their props, also I recommend going for a ball raced prop, they are great for steam boats, When lining up the prop shaft to fit, I used a lazer (cheap one from a pound shop) this helps to line up correctly, also check the rotation of the prop, (thats the curve on the prop, ie, if you trace your finger around in the grove you will tell if it Left or right rotation, , so if for EG the prop curves to the left, then the engine rotations must be op direction ie right, in order for the launch to forward you thanks for your posts, Roy
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(http://s3.postimage.org/12nwedon8/topaz_engine_bay_1aaa.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/12nwedon8/)
Hi , here's the extra Globe valves now fitted, just the servo for the whistle, just waiting on ext'n lead for the servo, I would like to get the chimney Stoved enameled, if any one knows of a Comany that does this service, thanks Roy
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Hi Allen,
Sorry, Prop , its actually 21/4 inch approx dia and 21/2 inch, cheers Roy
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thanks for that info Roy,any particular reason you have2steam valves to the engine regards Allan
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Hi, I always use two valves, so that the one on the boiler is fully open, and the one on the engine is to set the flow of steam through to the engine, this helps to control the steam to the engine, so that I have more control over the rpm of the engine, it also means that steam is not being wasted, thanks Roy
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is that the Standard Prop shop prop that comes with it ? do you ball race both ends ? by the way is that the Topaz that was on ebay ?
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Hullo Roy......VHT manufacture [very hight temperature] aerosol cans in many colours including black & white....the beauty is that you post cure the enamel in the oven....& this improves chemical resistance....I can clean the brass work without damaging the paint
Do a search on VHT paint here in Mayhem.....you will find a few threads .........Derek
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Hi thanks for all your posts, and interest shown,
I was quite aware of the weather conditions, and realized that I just had a small window of opportunity to sail her, I was not to far out, and not too deep there,!!! I waited 4 hours for the weather to improve enough to sail her, so I think I had all the bases covered. There's always conjecture over how to set the balance of a launch, ans I think this was'nt bad for the first time out, I will now trim her out for next outing, " on a mill pond", !!!!
getting back to VHT spray paint " how do you, post cure? I'll give it a go,
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Hey, it's your boat Roy, you sail it wherever you like :-))
My first experience sailing a steam boat was on Cheddar reservoir (long before the factory had the model lake), sailing the Cheddar Models factory demo Amaryllis open launch in a howling gale with John Woodroofe trying to do the salesman bit on me. The fact I could not hear a word he was saying due to the severity of the wind was no nevermind to John (as those who knew him would know).
It was brilliant fun and shortly after that I bought my first Puffin engine kit.
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A fine job Roy..... Perfect conditions to sail are far and few between here also --You just need to see them run after all the work..
Congratulations on a splendid boat that will put you in a many a fun conversations with passers by!! :-))
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Hi, many thanks for all your posts, most appreciated, I have fitted the sero to the whistle, and have found a great UK Co, to stove enamel my chimney, willl post details when I get it back,plus more complete pics and pics on the water,
many thanks again, Roy
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Hi All,
My Topaz is now finished, !!!!, just need to trial her again at the weekend, weather permitting,
got my chimney stove enamelled by www.crimblepowdercoating.co.uk tel: 01484-843175 it cost £15 great service,
(http://s1.postimage.org/l8vg1i2s/TOPAZ_chimney_white.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l8vg1i2s/)
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Hi Roy congratulations on a beautiful job,but I have a question as to why the engine needs 60psi to perform satisfactory? as most of these small engines that I know of including my own run very well on 20 - 40 psi this is in no way a criticism
Cheers
John
Hi, Well the engine, has never been run in , !!!only ran once by the owner in 1989 , and these engines by Hemmens need loads of running in, I run on comp air for ages, and only now its starting to respond to run at lower PS1, I've got her down to 40 psi now, !!! but I have watch the pressure that can build up because of the small boiler, , but I'm pleased with her, and it getting better ever time I run the engine.with try 2nd trial at the Dam at the W/E. Cheers for your interest,
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(http://s2.postimage.org/1mfmotlgk/Topaz_port_side_close_up_after_steaming.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1mfmotlgk/)
Here's an other view, of my completed Topaz, many thanks for the interest shown in this project,, , I think this now complete, so now on with my next project. thanks again
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Hullo Roy......one point I missed until today ..... :o is question of the overboard discharge tube nipple?????? on the STDB side & just FWD of the gas tank discharge valve
When I look closer...it was evident as early as the image from June 13.........
I cannot see any internal connection images.......is it for blowing down the boiler? :-)
Derek
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Yes Derek, that right, , here's a " on the water pic, on a sunny day, weather with less wind, !!!!
(http://s1.postimage.org/1x1fuyldw/TOPAZ_OTW_sunny_day.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1x1fuyldw/)
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(http://s1.postimage.org/120u72m10/Topaz_prop_pin.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/120u72m10/)
Here's my Topaz I have drilled a 2mm hole for the prop pin to secure prop, !!!
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is that the Standard Prop shop prop that comes with it ? do you ball race both ends ? by the way is that the Topaz that was on ebay ?
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is there a reason for this post ?or did you just forget to answer it ?
Peter
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Hi Peter, sorry forgot to add post, Yes its the std prop and prop shaft, , how ever I'm not keen on it, I like to fit the Prop Shop ball raced propshaft, best,. Thanks for your post.
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Hi Peter,
Getting back to the prop it is a prop shop STM/2230/4blade/left curved/ threaded M4,
I retimed my engine the Caton and have speed biase in the op direction, so changing the prop to a right curve, hope this info is of help to you