Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: gregk9 on September 28, 2011, 08:38:03 pm
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Parcel arrived today from the manufacturers, its been a long 2 weeks pacing the carpet waiting for this box to arrive I can tell you. And yep, upon opening the box i was like the proverbial dog with 2 **ks ! [ha ha].
the mouldings are very sharp and edges quite square, very little pitting and what there is needs a little knifing putty to fill over. I order the kit to come complete with their own fitting kit, rudders and propshafts and propellers. they have supplied twin 55mm 4 blade raboesch units.
Ive given the items a good wash in warm soapy water and once dry, considering how warm it was today, took barely a few minutes outside, so took a few pictures if anyone would be interested in seeing one of this companies hulls.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2uwrqtdpg/P1010866c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2uwrqtdpg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2uwwpff6s/P1010865c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2uwwpff6s/)
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Top quality as normal from Andy... :-))
Russ
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I agree, I just hope I can do the kit full justice by my own attempts at a full build.
I now also need to chat to Dave @ Action, have to talk "motors & noise !"
I just hope the motors he recommended will take these 55mm props ok.
Will find out when I speak to him on the phone..........
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As for the motors, I used graupner 900 bb's in my waveney on 60mm 3 bladed props and it motors along nicely.
Probably the wrong choice in many peoples opinion but i don't have any complaints with them.
Please post lots of photos of the build as i'd like to attempt this build at some point.
Dan
P.s, id be very interested to see the fittings also!
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I was recommended 900 bb's by Andy, but these motors are as scares and rockin horse ***t ! as even graupner dont have stock, they are revamping and dont have a delivery date even.
but Action rekon their 755 motors should get this boat to, er, "move" its butt when necessary.
Will do some pics of the fittings and post soon for you, no probs.
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heres the pics of the fitting kit, or "part fitting kit" as labelled. I was pre warned that some of the items were not "Mersey", but the majority of items should be ok. One of the most obvious items for example is the screen wiper arms/blades. Mersey has vertical wipers, from top of screen, but they can soon be replicated in plastic.
(http://s2.postimage.org/fhwv9ppg/P1010874c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fhwv9ppg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/fi1tvr6s/P1010875c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fi1tvr6s/)
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(http://s2.postimage.org/fl1btbac/P1010882c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fl1btbac/)
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(http://s2.postimage.org/fl4mw09w/P1010884c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fl4mw09w/)
appologies pics are a bit "bright", but trying to get a bit close to show detail, the flash was a bit too high, but they show enough for you to get an impression.
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looks great, will follow this build with great interest
stubbsy :-)
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I spoke to Dave at "Action Electronics" this afternoon, er did my best impression of a kid walking round a toy shop !
Lets put it this way, Dave's got meat on the table this weekend [ha ha].
I simply told him what Boat i was building and left his expertise to talk me in to the rest !
This Lifeboats going to be built right and I want it to last, so its gonna get the "BEST KIT" I can afford from the start.
Pictures of the electrical stuff will be posted once the , er "parcel" lands.
I know one thing, my local postmans getting quite fit now, with all the bits and pieces he keeps delivering, he's already told me its cheaper for him than going to the gym!
I have cut out the cabin wondows today, being as the weather was so nice yet again, plus its a bit of a grotty dusty job, so way better to do outside fresh air.
I first marked the window edges with a soft pencil, to clearly define the "inner" lip edge. then i drilled a series of 1mm holes around the inside edge line of the pencil makr, thus leaving me a tolerance edge for sanding back by hand later, rather than drill a line of holes right on the edge line and then risk "over sanding" to get a straight edge.
Much better and easier to sand a little off at a time, than find its oversize later.
I will purposely leave the final sanding of the windows untill I actually "test fit" the window kit I have bought, so I know for definate, that each window "will fit" and not just fall right through. I purchased a set from "Speedline" along with a set of 3 figures, to make the boat look a bit "busy" later.
(http://s2.postimage.org/okejp7c4/P1010885c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/okejp7c4/)
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(http://s2.postimage.org/omu76lic/P1010890c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/omu76lic/)
* IF you are wondering what the "BLACK STRIP" is its a piece of thin rubber, normally used as a protective strip on vehicle door sills. Sticky on one side, and has the benefit that it keeps the glass fibre safe from the spinning drill chuck whilst i was drilling all the window holes, so no nasty drill marks to fill afterwards.
It beats using several layers of masking tape, but does just the same job. Yes I got caught out once before doing this trick and cost me a lot of repair time later on, having to fill in several drill chuck marks in a model, so that stuff stays on till the windows have been test fitted and no need for any mor epower tools near the forward apertures!
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I have recieved my "toy shop" order Supplied by Dave from Action Electronics. I now have ALL the electrical gear to install in to the hull. I will also be fitting operational navigation lights and rotating radar, the radar will be using a similar micro motor as I used in my Egrete Pusher tug build.
I am still working on the underside of the hull, it had a coat of primer, which has highlighted a few more blemishes, so they have again been filled with knifing putty. Unfortunately, my outdoor workshop is out of bounds today, due to the very high winds, so unable to proceed with any flatting or sanding today.
I have also recieved some 1.5mm ply for the main deck and also to enable me to create a cabin interior. I have to say many kind thanks to Steve from Model Boat bits for dropping off at my home "en route" from a delivery. THANKS STEVE !
(http://s2.postimage.org/24gpmyesk/P1010901.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24gpmyesk/)
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The "toy Box" contained a dual esc controller, power switch, fuse panel, twin battery protector,p11 "noisey thing" and Amplifier. A 4" speaker and a pair of Dave's 755 motors, which he assures me will be sufficient for this build.
I also topped the order off with the usb p/c link kit so once ive got used to the "noisey thing", i can then add/modify the boat sounds. Not something to do straightaway i will add, but once its finished and i get bored...................................[ha ha].............. And before the NEXT project of course!
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Looking really nice so far, keep up the good work. :-)) :-))
I got the same set up from Dave for my Waveny, lovely stuff to work with, enjoyed fitting the boxes to the units etc. The sound is excellent too. I'll look forward to seeing her progress. Cheers Dan.
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Thanks for your comments Dan.
this is my first "full fibreglass project, Ive completed similar with my Sun Tug, but this is more of a challenge being as so little is supplied, as basically, you only get the hull and the cabin shell, nothing else, so loads to construct here.
The hull looked quite good, I did a little bit of filling hee and there, but it was not untill I sprayed with a coat of grey primer did all the minor blemishes and pit holes really show up. So its a case of fill/dry/flat/recheck/reprime/check again. And do this several times untill nothing is visible through the primer. Then i can wet flat the primer to get a decent level base for the top coats. I want it as a working boat, so I can enjoy sailing it, but also would like it at a standard I can place it on a table and let others view it statically too, so it has to "pass" my exacting standards at each level [ a challenge in itself] !
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I have finally got past the primer stage on the underside of the hull. It has taken many hours, but I was not going to leave any blemishes visible under the paint.
So I have managed to get a coat of white paint on the lower hull, up to the water line. once this has dried, it will get a second coat, prior to painting the darker colour and remasking.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ip2ns2g4/P1010900c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ip2ns2g4/)
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I have now got a coat of pain on to the hull. I have to admit the hull did take quite a bit of work to fill in a few flaws and blemishes, plus wanted to build up a few layers of paint to add "deepness" to the colours.
I sprayed the white on first, finishing with the deep blue as second coat. I still have to "trim" the pain edge between the two colours, as these pics were taken barely 2 hours after removing the masking.
(http://s3.postimage.org/g924vus/P1010907c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g924vus/)
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looking good Greg
is the wheel house painted in grey primer? i did read somewere on here that white primer make the orange brighter and grey makes it very dark.
you are making great progress :-))
stubbsy :-)
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I can vouch for that aswell in regard to the primer.
Made that mistake on my Waveney.
Looking good though!
Dan
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Hi there, prime it with white, DON'T use grey it'll come out WAY too dark. Here speaks the voice of experience, made that mistake myself once. :embarrassed: Looking great by the way, Dave. :-))
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Thanks for the comments about the grey primer guys, but what I do "from experience" is do all the marking and cutting/filing work in grey primer "state", I find the grey primer helps to highlight more marks in the surface than white ever does, "untill too late that is". So I leave in grey primer untill complete and ready for paint, then I will use white primer before the colour coats.
The hull was fully sprayed in grey primer and the white colour came up ok on that by the way!
The hull was supplied "in white" and I have to say it was only when I sprayed it with grey primer all the flaws and pit holes showed up, so thats why I prefer to start with grey and work back up to white.
Anyway, have started on the wooden framing in the hull today. There is plenty of "shape" towards the bows and also across the stern, so to ease the wood in to shape i simple made a load of 3/4 deep saw cuts in to the wood, every 10mm. I then attached the parts using stabilit express as you cant beat the stuff for its ability to stick anything to anything! Once this has fully dried I will mix up some cascamite and brush this in to all the saw cuts to fill them back up and reduce the "flex" in the wood.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2x7dbot7o/P1010914c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2x7dbot7o/)
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I have started construction of the rear section of the upper cabin. I am making this out of styrene, purely for simplicity and ease of construction. I am using 1.5mm sheet, so similar in thickness to the glass fibre main cabin walls.
(http://s4.postimage.org/ibcxhk4k/P1010944.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ibcxhk4k/)
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Bite more work on the stern end today. adding some more side panels to the boxes, made up the throttle control plinth and navigation panel above the wheel position.
(http://s1.postimage.org/zfehx1ms/P1010954c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zfehx1ms/)
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at this rate you will have it finished before i have all the bits for my severn %)
good work :-))
stubbsy :-)
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I dont know about having it finished before your Severn Build ! [ha ha]. Im having to cover the lounge floor with pictures and plans to get sufficient detail and measurement for each piece i make with this one.
in some respects a speedline kit would of been better, but, " at a cost", which i simply can't afford, so have to make the best of what I could [and can] afford.
So its a test of my scratchbuilng skills on this tyke !
I already know of one major "challenge" on this build and thats going to be the internal seats.
tables, desks, radio units i can fabricate, but those seats will have to "Look" right through all those windows !
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Hi.
What glue are you using to join the styrene to the fibre glass.
Seeing this build has given me the encouragement to finish mine which I have had for 3 years.
Some photos from the Dungeness Mersey cabin showing seat construction - if it helps.
Alan C
(http://s1.postimage.org/118end4ec/PICT0112.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/118end4ec/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/118okl7d0/PICT0119.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/118okl7d0/)
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Thanks for the pictures, they do "help" a great deal.
As for the glue. I find Stabilit express does the trick, but remember to sand/abrade the "glue side" of the plastic/styrene to give it something to adhere to. remember glue does not really like a fully flat surface, so where poss, put a small thin "trim strip" in too, just to give it a bigger surface area to bond.
Thie interior surface of the glass fibre is well rough, so does not need any "roughing up" to get the glue to adhere.
plus the stabilit express takes approx 10 minutes to start to "go off", "firmly dry in about an hour. set like concrete in 6 hrs!
Once dry you can sand it , drill it, even run a thread through it.
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not had much time today to do much to the boat, so decided to have a "go" at one of the easier jobs. I have started making the pieces for the rear cabin door.
First piece is the main outer frame, with 2 sections cut out for the window panels. I purposely left in the "centre bar" as the centre door support bar is fitted internally. The outer glass retention frame was cut from a solid piece of styrene also, then after drilling holes for the inner corner radii, it was cut out with a sharp blade.
I will cut a piece of clear styrene for the glazing and this will be "sandwiched" between door and frame, to add the depth to the panel [as original]. then to replicate the bolts holding it all together, i going to opt for plastic micro rod. i will drill a line of holes all around the frame, then cut pieces of rod to pass through all the pieces, to get a bolt head impression on both sides of the door panel.
I thought this method would be far easier than trying to cut ultra thin slices of styrene rod and glue them to each side seperately.
i will post pics as thuis stage is processed, as its "theory" for now ! [ha ha].
(http://s2.postimage.org/2fvs0d95w/P1010958c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2fvs0d95w/)
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Have now done some more work on the stern access door. Firstly, by cutting a second "skin" to add some more depth to the door shell, so it is now approx 3mm thick.I then painted the window panel edges before clamping all parts together, save me trying to paint against the clear perspex later [and missing].
I did not have any thick clear perspex in stock, so had to cut 2 thinner sheet panels and laminate together. these being sandwiched by the outer frame trim.I did as I said I'd "try", so I drilled a series of "through holes" around the outer trim panel, then cut some 1mm plastic rod and passed through the holes to "simulate" the bolts/nuts holding the glass panel in. Its not painted as yet, nor fully sanded, so may look better once in colour.
(http://s2.postimage.org/3ufwans4/P1010966c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3ufwans4/)
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Heres another couple of photo's which now hopefully, put the stern cabin door into perspective a little better.
i've now also put a bit of base paint in a few areas, especially where some other items will be fitted, just to ensure there is "orange" paint behind, some inaccessible areas after fitting.
(http://s2.postimage.org/6rbk7z6s/P1010972c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6rbk7z6s/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/6rgiu0o4/P1010973c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6rgiu0o4/)
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Hi Greg
Following the build with great interest as I've just aquired the same boat from MBD. How close to the top of the hull have you positioned the wooden framing?
PJ
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I have put the wood framwork at the top edge level of the hull , minus 1.5mm [thickness of deck ply] "as supplied" as mine when it came through "seemed" to of been sanded to correct profile. So my deck [once attached will sit directly on top of the wood frame and take it to the hull edge. the toe boards will be added at a much later stage.
Incidentally, did your hull come complete with the rear "side" step boards? as mine were missing out of the "mould" as Ive later found out from followers of the build, so Ive got to "add" these to mine, same goes for the stern mounted trim tabs, there is no "bulge" on the stern for their mountings either.
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Hi Greg, thanks for the info. Not quite sure what you mean by rear side step boards but looking at your photos and comparing to my hull they are identical. The same goes for the trim tab bulge.
Keep posting the pics and tips - knifing putty works a treat.
PJ
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If you have a good look at the plans you were given with the hull, plus look at the plans RNLI can supply [WELL worth the order - pm me for details if you have not ordered already], you will see that where the forward "rib" which flows down from the bows [along each side of the hull] comes to an abrupt end. This is "supposed" to run continually, almost to the stern, and then act as a "tread step" for persons climbing aboard when in the water.
You will also need to "add" some additional support plate on the lower stern, to take the supports for the trim tabs, plus seems to be a bit of an "angled lip around the stern prop tunnel exits too.
I will show more details as I get this far, as I had omitted these items, "presuming" they were not there, but only after a keen spotting forum member noticed mine were missing , he kindly forwarded details and photo's to assist me in retro fitting on mine.
(http://s4.postimage.org/r17tq1k4/PICT0016.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r17tq1k4/)
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if i remember correctly the first 10 merseys had aluminum hulls then later they started to use fibre reinforced composite, dont know if this would account for the slight difference in design,
you are making great progress, hopefully soon i will have most of the bits to start my severn ok2
stubbsy :-)
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Looking great, not hanging around on the build! All but one of the first 12 Merseys had aluminium hulls, first FRC composite hull was 12-11 Lifetime Care built 1989. All boats from 12-12 Marine Engineer built in 1991 had FRC hulls. Some pics I took of Hastings Mersey 12-002 Sealink Endeavour if of any use, Dave. :-))
PS. I guess you've seen Mike Pendlebury's (gribeauval) monster Mersey build blog? http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Mike_Pendlebury/1ndex.htm (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Mike_Pendlebury/1ndex.htm)
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Thanks for the comments and pictures, all pics are always appreciated!
I am not 100% sure "IF" the missing items are from the model hull design mould and "could" of been moulded upon the "early" hull profile, i;m unsure on that, but being as I'm trying to model 12-26, barmouth Lifeboat, suppose that puts me in the "later class" [ha ha].
Anyway, onwards and a little upwards. After much discussion over the past couple of days, the "what motor" issue is still simmering, as the "supplied propellers" at 55mm were recommended for brushless motors and not "brushed" as I have found out. So I now have 2 options if I wish to remain with good old ever faithful brushed. I fit 700 bb turbo's and go for smaller 45mm props, or go 900 motors and fit 50mm jobby's. Graupner 900's and not in stock anywhere in the Uk or Europe, believe mem, ive tried, even graupner cannot give a delivery date. But, Andy at Models By design recommened an ebay seller who can supply 900 type motors at a much cheaper rate and has stock too!, so this coupled with a pair of 12v nicad sticks will become my powerplant!
Action Electronics have already supplied all the necessary drive gear, so this is the way I will go.
Due to the "tunnel prop" design, I have also been strongly recommended to "tank steer" with the motors as the rudders [apparently] are as muich use as a chocolate teapot, even on the full size brutes. Fortunately the Action P94 does have a program suitable for this", so will maybe give it a try, but I will be linking the rudders up to a servo "as well as", not wanting to give up too soon on a job.
Right. Todays little skirmish with the lifeboat. Ive cut out the 3 forward hatch cover panels and inserted a "edge liner" to act as the waterproof lip/hatch edge. I firstly marked out the hatch positions, then for "ease" found a 5p piece gives a nice radius to the corners. I then followed by cutting out the corners with a 20mm drill cutter, I used one i was given free with a set of reversing sensors for my car bumper, so yes, some things do come in handy for all sorts of jobs!
I then cut some strips 10mm deep out of 0.5mm plasticard to act as the coaming edges, these were temporarily held in place with a few drops of superglue, then bonded in with stabilit express to fully fix in place. Once this is fully dry, i can then sand the top [pouter] lip edge flat, to take the hatch covers at a later stage in the build.
this now also allows me to make up some square locker boxes to attach from the underside, to go under these covers. What i will do however, is fit out one with its stock of ropes etc, the other 2 will contain switch panels for ease of operation of the boat, once at poolside. I will use 2 hatches for the switches, it saves my elephants paws from hitting too many switches at once !!!
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Hi there Greg, Barmouth's Mersey Moira Barrie definitely has same shape rear hull as the Dungeness boat, got big plates on hull by where trim tabs are fixed though, it's the one I built too! I've been looking for my disc with photos of her on but can't find it. I'll carry on looking tomorrow. Found this picture of her online though, Dave. :-))
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Thanks for the pics dave.
What Ive decided to do is make up some styrene plates of correct size to attach to the stern, make up the additional "strengthening plates" that fit either side of the keel, where the "haul" ropes attach and make up the prop tunnel extensions, make up the base plates for the "step rails" down each side of the hull. THEN attack the hull, abrade off the paint where these will fit, buff off the rear face of the styrene so its got a nice rough finish and attach all these "add ons" with stabilit, then thats all the hull mods done in one go so to speak. All that is left to then do is mount the propeller shafts, but will make up some styrene "blanks" to take the place of the props whilst the bonding dries and I know just the thing to use to get those tunnel profiles reasonably accurately............. more later on this little DIY crossover item of kit !
It should make it easier that way, then ive only got to repaint the "white" again, fortunately all the reworking is in this area, so at least i havent wasted my time with the upper blue coat. That only needs its correct colour "top coat", once the rest is complete on the hull.
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A bit more "scratchbuilding" today, Ive made up a couple of "mirror" identical components which sit either side in the stern bridge area. The tube was cut from some 12mm wood dowel and the box units from styrene sheet. i first drilled a pilot hole, then "hand reamed" the hole to its correct size, so as not to distort or tear the plastic. The boxes were then built up and once dry, the wood dowel pushed through to its correct position and angle. I then cut some circular discs out of styrene using a "compass cutter" for ease and simplicity and glued a disc to both ends of the wood dowel to replicate the flanges.
Next job was to paint the "inner edges" before bonding in place, as due to their positions, there is a lot of area you won't be able to get to once fitted and someone is bound to notice the lack of paint!
I then made the angle brackets to hold the box to the side panels. These again were marked out on styrene sheet, the hole drilled/reamed and then cut from the sheet, so as not to rip or tear the plastic again, plus its much easier to drill a "full hole" than it is to file a half circle later.
I then added these to the boxes and whilst the glue was still wet, held the boxes to their mounting positions, so the brackets take up the correct angle to enable the "box" to sit vertical. Once in correct angle, I then set down on the bench to dry, finally bonding in place with revell poly cement.
(http://s1.postimage.org/1b99edn0k/P1011007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1b99edn0k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1b9b1wzic/P1011008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1b9b1wzic/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1b9mmoeys/P1011012c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1b9mmoeys/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1b9t8tsxw/P1011013c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1b9t8tsxw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1b9zuz6x0/P1011014c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1b9zuz6x0/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/1ba361vwk/P1011015c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ba361vwk/)
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Right, todays task
has been to put right a few things missing off the hull supplied by models by design, that i did not spot untill viewing some pictures kindly sent to me by a fellow forum member.
1/ Side step rails down both sides of the hull
2/ stern rudder extensions
3/ trim tab mount plates.
yes, I should of checked all the necessary documentation first, but I tried my best with the info at hand, namely the vague plans supplied by MBD and the plans from RNLi, although very good and detailled, unfortunately not being 3 dimensional its often quite difficult to see things "square on", so can get missed out in the transposition so to speak.
Ah well, time to attack the painted hull with a rough abrasive pad and draw it down to base glass fibre again. This I tried to limit as best possible to a strip down both sides of the hull, wide enough to take the base plate for the step rail. a couple of sections on the stern to take the trim tab base plates, then around the rear of the prop tunnels to take the base plates of the rudder extension shields.
I firstly roughed up the reverse side of the styrene to be used, so the stabilit express will grip and bond both together, holding with masking tape untill touch dry, about 15 minutes. I then removes the tape and gently removed the excess glue that had oozed out with the tip of a small screwdriver blade. Well it saves having to sand it off later.
Once this had dried for about an hour I was then able to bond on the remaining bits of plastic strip to complete the tasks set.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u5fxqjc4/P1011016.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u5fxqjc4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u5hl9vtw/P1011022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u5hl9vtw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u5j8t8bo/P1011024c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u5j8t8bo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u5mjvxb8/P1011025c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u5mjvxb8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u5wh409w/P1011032.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u5wh409w/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u6d0hh7o/P1011033.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u6d0hh7o/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u6v7ean8/P1011036.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u6v7ean8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1u76s5q3o/P1011038.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1u76s5q3o/)
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Whilst waiting for the knifing putty to dry on the , er "minor alterations" carried out on the hull, I have added the propeller shat braces to the propeller end. Looking at all the info i have, it seemed the easiest thing to do was cut a strip of 5mm wide brass sheet, mark its centre point, then wrap around the propeller tube, clamp it and solder it to the tube. Then once cooled off, I carefully cut 3/4 of the way through the brass strip [from the rear face] then angled the arms backwards [or towards the bows looking side on to the boat], then applied solder to this cut point to firmly affix. So now the shafts have their stern supports, ready for installation in the hull. I have also recieved today the smaller propellers, to match the 900 series motors im going to use [50mm].
So as you can appreciate, their is a "big moment" due shortly as the power train is set in to the hull.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2v2tn404/P1011034.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2v2tn404/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2v7s95hg/P1011035c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2v7s95hg/)
The other job ive also done is to add the rudder trims to the base of the rudders. These are simply flat pieces of brass sheet, soldered in place, but once painted should "look the part".
(http://s3.postimage.org/2w1jxedg/P1011026.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w1jxedg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2w6ijfus/P1011027.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w6ijfus/)
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I have now had chance to add the missing items from my hull. Items you would of presumed would of been moulded on from the onset, but being as the "mould" is currently "third hand", things have obviously been removed to make the moulding process easier and quicker and a lot less pieces to the mould "box", so less detailling can be accomodated for.
the side step rails, trim tab bases and tunnel end flanges are now fitted and filled smooth where appropriate.
(http://s3.postimage.org/dry9n37o/P1011072c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dry9n37o/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/dsggjwn8/P1011075c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dsggjwn8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/dss1bc3o/P1011078c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dss1bc3o/)
next step was to apply some grey primer, I prefer to use grey as any minor blemishes show up easier and can be better "spotted" in grey, whereas white primer can loose pit holes, untill you spray a darker colour on top that is!
(http://s3.postimage.org/dv7osq9w/P1011079c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dv7osq9w/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/dvpvpjpg/P1011080c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dvpvpjpg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/dvwhuxok/P1011082c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dvwhuxok/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/dvy5ea6c/P1011083c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dvy5ea6c/)
I have now applied the knifing putty to fill the few little areas stil needing a bit of attention.
(http://s3.postimage.org/dw82md50/P1011087c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dw82md50/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/dwbdp24k/P1011086c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dwbdp24k/)
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Hi Greg,What did you make the spray rail step from?
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I used some 12mm wide 0.5mm thick styrene strip for the base and some 5mmx 3mm styrene "plastruct" for the actual step board.
I bonded the styrene to the hull with stabilit express, after first sanding the back face of the styrene, otherwise it simply peels off.
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I used same on mine Greg. It's certainly coming on well, much quicker than my Mersey build! Dave. :-))
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I didn't use "T" section rail, as the hull sides are not fully vertical, so best to lay on the base plate first, then add the step rail to get the angle right and even.
Same goes for the stern "tunnel extension" "L" sections, these again are not vertical or at 90 degrees to each other, so best to set the base plates on first, then get the other half of the "L" shape to sit parallel with the roof of the prop tunnel.
Plastic weld is best to ensure a full bond between the plastics/styrene as afterall, these items are in the water and the odd accidental knock may be likely i its lifetime, even if not your own fault.
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WHilst between coats of primer on the hull, Ive doen some more work on the propeller shafts and have vuilt up the support hubs, just behind the propeller. I was wondering what to use to make these up when I spyed some epoxy putty pellets hanging up on my wall hooks. Simply unwrap, roll in your palms untill mixed, then each pellet was just enough to mould the support hubs to their shape.
Give it an hour to dry and ready to sand to finish.
(http://s3.postimage.org/u2hhuhwa1/P1011091c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/u2hhuhwa1/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/xjgsj9pmz/P1011090c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xjgsj9pmz/)
I have alos took a grinder disc to the motor shafts and prop shafts and ground a "flat" to take the coupling grub screws, to reduce risk of slippage once in situ.
(http://s3.postimage.org/k30djtp61/P1011089c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k30djtp61/)
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FInally got the hull back to "white primer" stage again, so once this has fully cured, i can give it a final flatting and spray the lower white gloss on first, before adding the blue later.
(http://s4.postimage.org/5gusgr87t/P1011092c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5gusgr87t/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/4u4xk26kr/P1011093c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4u4xk26kr/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/kppb89ra1/P1011094c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kppb89ra1/)
So.............. whilst waiting for the pain to dry, ive been continuing with the upper cabin assembly.
I have marked out and pre drilled out the engine ventilator panels, which will have outer covers made up, complete with louvered grilles. the base plates for the vents just forward of the main grilles have been bonded on and the positions of the deck lights, marked to show through the paintwork, for adding later.
I have marked and cut out the fire hydrant access.
(http://s4.postimage.org/jswo4mjx5/P1011096.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jswo4mjx5/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/8mxmra0uj/P1011097.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8mxmra0uj/)
Ive also made up the initial framework for the flying bridge screen panel.
(http://s4.postimage.org/k5snojrkp/P1011098c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k5snojrkp/)
I have also cut out and made up the forward access doors, these have had a 3mm deep lip edge added to act as water seals and the main hinges also bonded on at this stage, so have plenty of time to dry before drilling the hinge pin holes.
(http://s4.postimage.org/bp2c541nd/P1011101.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bp2c541nd/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/fjwehjmiz/P1011102.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fjwehjmiz/)
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for a 3D pictorial sketch of a Mersey CLass, please follow this link.
http://www.3dcadbrowser.com/preview.aspx?modelcode=29033
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todays little "tester" has been to add the pivot hinges to the access hatches. I did not want to simply bond/glue the pivot posts to the top of the deck, as it would be a little bit too weak in strength, so decided to use a mini reaming drill bit in my mini drill and cut slots to allow some plastic strip to drop through and be bonded more securely from underneath. So I first marked the top deck with a knife blade, so not to mark it too much, then ground out the slots, test fitting the plastic strip untill a tight fit was obtained. I then drilled a 2mm hole through the hatch hinge bars and also in the tops of the hinge post strips. I also drilled a second hole in the opposite end of the plastic strip, so when the glue was applied, it would run through the hole, making a stronger bond and prevent the strip from pulling out. you could put a small piece of plastic rod through these holes , just as you would a "security post" on your driveway, but allowing the glue to run through will suffice here.
I then threaded the pivot posts on to the 2mm rod and attached to the hatch hinges, then set in place through the precut slots. once in correct alignment i applied some stabilit express to the underside around the posts, ensuring the glue ran through the drill holes. Once dry the temporary tape was removed and the hinges checked for operation.
YEs, I will add brass springs later, but not untill the painting is complete. the hatch clips will be added and also the securing method, as I am not going to use fully working turn clips, as these will be used frequently, so dont want to risk failure.
(http://s4.postimage.org/647xuvxwp/P1011103.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/647xuvxwp/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/l5etpw609/P1011108c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l5etpw609/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/5cnyzefjj/P1011105c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5cnyzefjj/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/6vjd4dm3z/P1011107c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6vjd4dm3z/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/lmwil8ouz/P1011110c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lmwil8ouz/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/j6up7e6sb/P1011112c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j6up7e6sb/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/fp5cmzre1/P1011113c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fp5cmzre1/)
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I have made up the side engine ventilator panels. I was originally going to "cheat" and go buy some resin cast jobbies, buthad a couple of hours to spare, so made my own up out of styrene.
I first made up the outer frames from 0.5mm thick 9mm wide strip, cut from a sheet.
Then by using some thinner [2.5mm wide] strip, I used this to make the grille louvres, carefully trimming the ends to make them a good fit, but not overly long that it causes them to bend and touch each other.
Once fully dry, i sanded the corners down a bit where the glue had dried, then marked out a drill line for the mounting bolts. I decided to replicate the mounting bolts with some little stubby cut pieces of styrene rod [1mm]. So after drilling a series of equally spaced holes around the frame, the "rod bits" were then inerted using a pair of tweesers and bonded in place with a dab of glue on the back of the frame.
(http://s1.postimage.org/5nx3zw2l7/P1011116c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5nx3zw2l7/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/btyz20b5j/P1011117c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/btyz20b5j/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/kstmss5fb/P1011119c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kstmss5fb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/npgnt2b93/P1011135.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/npgnt2b93/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/rpsej1r3r/P1011136.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rpsej1r3r/)
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Adding now to the "plastic bolts" idea, I have drilled and "bolted" the engine covers. I used a plasticard template to cut the bolts to the same length, rather than just rely upon resting the plastic rod against a ruler and also used another "spacer template" to evenly space the drill holes around the drill line on the covers. I drilled rigth through the glass fibre so the plastic rod gets as much "purchase" as possible, so not to be easily knocked out [or off]. Once drilling complete, I placed some masking tape on the underside, to "hold" the glue in situ whilst it dried. I then proceeded to carefully place the plastic rods in to their respective holes, then adding a drop of superglue to bond them in.
I will leave these to dry for a couple of days before runing a sander over the bolt heads to get a nice even "level", as due to the unevern underside of the glass, its impossible to get all the plastic rods the same length, not unless you cut each piece seperately. Now that would be really time consuming !
(http://s7.postimage.org/z7ctncow7/P1011131c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z7ctncow7/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/vluam79zv/P1011132.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vluam79zv/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/4tqsc270n/P1011127.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4tqsc270n/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/oc8q3hvff/P1011133.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oc8q3hvff/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/rrmqt1fyf/P1011134.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rrmqt1fyf/)
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Sorry no posts for a few days, but had things "under construction", so needed to complete it, before actually posting any details.
Right. Time is moving on and the need for a boat stand has dawned. BUT, I dont just need a boat stand, I need to be able to move the boat about, carry it out to my car, then transport it to the pool to sail [forward thinking !].
So why not make something that all fits together and does all you need?
So first made a simple rectangualr wooden cradle with 4 vertical uprights, from which I suspended some 20mm wide webbing straps. These easily contour to the underside shape of the hull [or any hull you put in the cradle].
now how to carry it?
I decided to wheel this about after finding a "cheap" set of wheels on good old ebay!
A folding Golf trolley.
It has a nice wide wheelbase, for stability and ease of towing behind you as you walk to the sailing pool.
It folds easily to go in your motor.
Even the wheels clip off.
Its light enough not to strain your back.
So with a simple addition of a couple of shaped wooden blocks, to "sit" where the "golf bag" would, the original web straps then hold the boat stand to the trolley and secure enough not to loose the boat.
Its way cheaper than buying wheels, axles, bit of alloy and trying your hardest to make a wheeled trolley strong enough to take a boat, but them finding out its so heavy its difficult to handle when moving over a loose gravel path.
HAve a look at the pictures and see how easy a conversion they really are.
I'mm hooked on the idea and will be adapting my other boat cradles to drop on the trolley for moving about.
(http://s7.postimage.org/t1ryhn03r/P1011137c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t1ryhn03r/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/h5ipg4rpj/P1011138c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/h5ipg4rpj/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/qiep6i62v/P1011139c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qiep6i62v/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/z380xog93/P1011140c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z380xog93/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/6yni2r9gb/P1011142c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6yni2r9gb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/5fnm139dz/P1011144c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5fnm139dz/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/czgp352kn/P1011145c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/czgp352kn/)
And just to prove how secure things can get. I stodd the trolley up on its base stand. And thats with only a single strap round the boat. Not its correct straps which will be custom made [by me] once the boat is complete enough to find the best places to run the straps over without damaging the deck railing etc.
(http://s7.postimage.org/zf8bcs75z/P1011148c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zf8bcs75z/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/g024xf39j/P1011150c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g024xf39j/)
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Finally, after carrying out some modifications to the hull, it is reeady again for painting.
I have decided to paint the white first, then follow in a couple of days [drying time] with the blue upper band.
Paint was applied using aerosol cans, Halfords "Appliance white", using the "dust coat/ allow to dry, followed by several light coats, giving sufficient time periods between coats to allow the solvent to clear from the paint before applying a further coat.
Pictures are of the hull after removal of the main layer of masking, note the main masking line of "tamaiya" masking will remain untill paint is fully dry to prevent "paint tear".
(http://s8.postimage.org/84urgpsip/P1011151c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/84urgpsip/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/yfud6o5nl/P1011153c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yfud6o5nl/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/6n80u3xyj/P1011154c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6n80u3xyj/)
The paintwork will be cut and polished once both colours have had sufficient time to dry fully.
But looking at the result so far, its not going to need much !
(http://s7.postimage.org/4icl8jbvr/P1011155c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4icl8jbvr/)
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I have sorted a few minor items out today, making up the inner liner for one of the forward lockers, adding the partitions and topping with some plastruct tubing, cut along its length, as you would with water pipe insulation, to protect the sharp edge of the partition tops.
I have now sanded down the plastic rod/s I used to simulate the engine cover bolt heads, so now they are a more realistic height. I have also made up the small cover plates for the deck hatch springs to sit in, to prevent them from rotating when the hatches are opened/closed.
I have also made up the basic design of the Df aerial, still needs a little detailling, but its "getting there!
One last item for today was to make up a couple of flying bridge screen hinge brackets, so the screen finally has some location for me to work from.
(http://s11.postimage.org/jyc8ex5rj/P1011156c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jyc8ex5rj/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/442w93yrl/P1011157c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/442w93yrl/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/qu2123hz5/P1011158.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qu2123hz5/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/62e5kugn5/P1011159.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/62e5kugn5/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/i003tzref/P1011160c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i003tzref/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/i4t8wi3qd/P1011163.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i4t8wi3qd/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/kpvnfzd1n/P1011164.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kpvnfzd1n/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/g4sxnkvk1/P1011165.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g4sxnkvk1/)
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SO, finally got to apply the Blue paint to the hull now. I have to say it went well and no problems, apart from the masking tape detaching itself on the last coat, so a bit of blue "overspray" sneaked through and attached itself to the white bow sides, but bit of "T" cut will sort that out once fully dry.
(http://s10.postimage.org/hszcd48lx/P1011166c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hszcd48lx/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/u8bha5xk7/P1011167c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/u8bha5xk7/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/fro7vl82v/P1011168c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fro7vl82v/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/5h11dda5l/P1011169c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5h11dda5l/)
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Coming on a treat Gregg :-))
Paul
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Thanks Paul !
I meant to add, the "wierd finish" you can see in the last picture is actually the reflection of the radiator on the wall ! i had to look at it several times before finding the reason of what it was [ha ha].
i am currently cutting and polishing the hull, "by hand", im not going to risk a mechanically driven polisher, it would be just my luck to burn the paint.
i have flatted it with 1200 wet/dry paper, then buffing up with some G3 abrhasive polish, before finishing with T cut. Once I am happy with the result, I will spray the hull with laquer to set the colours and prevent/reduce the risk of scratches.
THEN
i can see about installing the drivetrain!
One thing I will add now. I am going to opt for 14.8v lipo battery sticks, one for each 900 motor. I think they should provide adequate power backup a bit better than ordinary sub c cell nimh 12v pack. Again thinking on weight, so keeping to a minimum.
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Not actually done any work on the Mersey today, but was collecting "bits" for it, as I'd placed an order with "Mac's Mouldings" and decided to collect from the International Model Boat Show. well, i wanted to go to the show anyway, so why not advance order the bits and pick up whilst there, at least i saved on postage [ha ha].
So I now have the interior cabin seats, I admit they are not "correct pattern" for a Mersey, but look similar and if i install minus the seat bases supplied with them, and simply make up the lockets they sit on instead, they should do the trick.
I also bought some lifebelts, some rectangular floats, some deck light shrouds [not pictured], a liferaft to sit under the flying bridge floor, some radio and electrical panels and some resin bollards, to loose some weight by not fitting the white metal ones, same goes for the towing posts too, resin will replace metal for weight shedding.
I also picked up some "D" section rubber fender strip from Models by design too, so this can be applied to the hull in due course.
Oh yes, one other, er "small item", simply for amusement, a "seagull", could not resist and once painted, he should sit quite happliy on the radar masting somewhere..............
(http://s10.postimage.org/pyozcwq3p/100_4439c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pyozcwq3p/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/ysp2lhrtx/100_4440c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ysp2lhrtx/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/fqc1cq70r/100_4441c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fqc1cq70r/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/biqweu1aj/100_4442c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/biqweu1aj/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/6e3h2fsi3/100_4443c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6e3h2fsi3/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/onevy0zcx/100_4444c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/onevy0zcx/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/y5ntpjzsx/100_4445c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y5ntpjzsx/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/6c1yykidn/100_4446c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6c1yykidn/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/eaamotgqz/100_4447c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eaamotgqz/)
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My next task has been to install the propshafts, now that the outer side of the hull is virtually "complete" and will only need "minor" reworking once the holes have been filled and sanded for the shafts so to speak.
I first measured the overall width of the "tunnels", as this decides the positioning of the props, to run centrally.
I prefer to then cut a plastic disc out of plasticard, slide this on the propshaft in place of the propeller, but making sure you "add" a bit to the diameter of the disc for "clearance". I for example cut the discs at 65mm diameter, as this "touched" the tunnel at 3 points, so its "near enough" to give me a centrepoint.
I then marked the drill point for where the shaft will enter through the hull and drilled a series of 10mm holes, elongating them in to a slot. One thing i did find, my cordless drill fitted in to the tunnel "just right" to stop any error or drilling sideways from happening!
Once this had been achieved and the shaft would sit in the hull slot, i then marked and slotted the "slots" to accept the stern shaft supports. Once fully checked, i refitted the plastic disc to the shaft, then turned the hull over and bent over the brass "tags", thus holding the shafts in place. I then put some masking tape on the outside of the hull, around the cut holes/apertures to prevent excess glue from spreading out then the inner hull holes were filled over with stabilit express.
(http://s8.postimage.org/ogdnrvl01/P1011173.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ogdnrvl01/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/y7gwu4t6x/P1011172.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y7gwu4t6x/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/r1vyp8m2v/P1011174.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r1vyp8m2v/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/3kwfdqv4h/P1011176.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3kwfdqv4h/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/stuzp29q7/P1011177.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/stuzp29q7/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/6k3c0v4lt/P1011179.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6k3c0v4lt/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/4i3q1sa15/P1011180.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4i3q1sa15/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/t4kvrdhv9/P1011183.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t4kvrdhv9/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/70ojnascx/P1011185.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/70ojnascx/)
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Now that the propshafts are in, nows the time to install the motor mounts too. I find the best method to get a good bond with glass fibre/on glass fibre, is to mix the material actually where you are going to place the mount. It also cuts down on waste too, as you dont have to scrape the mixed stuff up to plonk it down somewhere else.
using this method helps "work" the new matting and resin in to the hull fibres to ensure a good bond once it all dries.
Once mixed I "ruffle" the mix up in to "multiple little peaks" to aid a level spread of the stuff as the motor mount is pressed down in place, as the mount settles, be sure to spread the excess glass up and over the mounting to make sure the glass "grabs" as much of the motor mount as possible, thus reducing load once the motor is working and "fully loaded" so to speak.
(http://s8.postimage.org/giyrpvqch/P1011199.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/giyrpvqch/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/ddmfod6md/P1011200c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ddmfod6md/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/bn3emvp39/P1011201c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bn3emvp39/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/nenlmqa75/P1011202c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nenlmqa75/)
This will be left for 24hrs to fully cure before reinstalling the motors to their brackets.
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Whilst the motor mounts are "curing", I have started on the interior cabin. Well, with so many windows its a crying shame NOt to put something in there and NO, I wasn't going to simply paint the windows out. After studying the plans from RNLi I cut a basic flat floor out, then cut out the engine vents, as I want to box these to allow, "engine sound" out of the hull. Plus these need to go on to the floor plan, along with the main navigators desk, before the seats are arranged. 2 of the seat bases are fairly simple to construct, being simple square boxes, one having an angled step box added for the seat behind.
(http://s7.postimage.org/irl8duh2f/P1011203c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/irl8duh2f/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/ygzmbbqkb/P1011205c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ygzmbbqkb/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/5h57vc7y3/P1011206c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5h57vc7y3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/5q451qi1z/P1011207c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5q451qi1z/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/n9wc78oxd/P1011208c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n9wc78oxd/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/wa1t6lofd/P1011209c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wa1t6lofd/)
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A little bit more work on two of the seat bases today, have now installed the handles and footrest.
been using a speedline figure for reference for heights and positioning, so guarantees they all will sit correctly and not have their feet dangling in mid air, or stuffed right under their chins!
Motor mounts have fully cured, so motors are now fitted.
(http://s12.postimage.org/8wpxvbzeh/P1011218c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8wpxvbzeh/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/76hxqvadn/P1011219c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/76hxqvadn/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/a1v0xqedn/P1011220c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a1v0xqedn/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/lk6malc6n/P1011221c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lk6malc6n/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/9wckg1n1r/P1011224c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9wckg1n1r/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/bm0cw4mrv/P1011225c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bm0cw4mrv/)
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Just a point, Greg....will you not get a lot of whiplash on those exposed shafts leading to the Uv couplings at high revs causing a lot of vibration.
neil.
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To be honest, these motors are rated at 6000 rpm, they are not brushless motors so not that high revving units. its also running 5mm shafts, all supplied from the manufacturer of the hull, so if its what they recommend, and they have had no problems noted from previous purchasers what else do you do?
I think Andy from Models By Design knows what he is doing and selling by now.
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Greg
I think what Neil is referring to is the distance the motors are mounted from the the end of the prop-tube, if they are lined up spot on you should be ok but ideally the motors could of done with being mounted closer....
Russ
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To be honest, these motors are rated at 6000 rpm, they are not brushless motors so not that high revving units. its also running 5mm shafts, all supplied from the manufacturer of the hull, so if its what they recommend, and they have had no problems noted from previous purchasers what else do you do?
I think Andy from Models By Design knows what he is doing and selling by now.
only offering advice...what else can I do???
refering to "what else you can do".........you could put in a bearing centrally between the end of the prop tube and the motor coupling to prevent whiplash.
You do know that the couplings you have fitted( presumably Huco) are only tested and approved to 2500 revs before they start vibrating(read the specs on them and straight from the manufacturer's mouth) and that is why I mentioned the whiplash problem once up to higher revs.
but hey ho!!, what do I know?
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Hi Neil, I think you know a lot & I for one would be very tempted to listen to anything you suggest when it comes to lifeboats, but then what do I know either, ?. Mick B.
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thanks for that vote of confidence, Mick. For a moment I thought I was getting to old and long in the teath to be offering usefull advice, lol {:-{ {:-{ {:-{
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I have simply fitted what was supplied by the manufacturer.
If i'd of cut the iner shafts shorter, nearer to the outer tubes, it would of meant running the shafts at almost 45 degree angle out the back. i have had to use their full length to get the shafts to run at as low an angle as possible for better drive.
YES it would of been nice to of been supplied with longer outer tubes, but hey, we have to use whats given us at the time as I dont have propshafts laying around as spares.
I may decide to fit bearing supports, I dont know untill I have had the thing running.
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I may decide to fit bearing supports, I dont know untill I have had the thing running.
by then it might be too late.....bent shafts, bent tubes if put under too much strain.....even a hole in the side of the hull if the shaft bends and shears away from the coupling into the side of the hull at 6000 revs.
Moderated
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by then it might be too late.....bent shafts, bent tubes if put under too much strain.....even a hole in the side of the hull if the shaft bends and shears away from the coupling into the side of the hull at 6000 revs.
I won't say anything else though.......your choice.
Too late you have already said all you wanted too.
I WILL Continue my build but perhaps NOT on this site.
I dont have to have my builds "dictated" to by anyone
Advice can be offered, but by no means PUSHED on someone.
its not as if you even know me.
I would prefer it if you did not post further comments on here please, for the sake of others who may still wish to continue to watch the build.
People have to be careful with the written word, as very often things written can be taken the wrong way and you certanly know how to do this and i find your last comments very upsetting as if "you dont care and wish my build the worst that can happen.
Surely thats not what someone of your expertise should be doing or saying.
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Greg
I for one am following your build with interest as my Mersey is only 50 percent complete, I hope you carry on posting your build....
Cheers
Russ
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Too late you have already said all you wanted too.
I WILL Continue my build but perhaps NOT on this site.
I dont have to have my builds "dictated" to by anyone
Advice can be offered, but by no means PUSHED on someone.
its not as if you even know me.
I would prefer it if you did not post further comments on here please, for the sake of others who may still wish to continue to watch the build.
People have to be careful with the written word, as very often things written can be taken the wrong way and you certanly know how to do this and i find your last comments very upsetting as if "you dont care and wish my build the worst that can happen.
Surely thats not what someone of your expertise should be doing or saying.
I was purely offering help and advice............as you clearly don't want advice from anyone, i'll bother you no more, and wish you good luck in your future build.
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Right, So thats cleared the "air" a little.
Tonights build has been limited by , er "correspondence" shall we say, ive done more typing than building, but have achieved a bit.
I have installed the hull cross braces and left to fully cure, before they will have the centres "cut out" to allow the interior access.
the plywood deck has also had the access panels cut out, this will be in 2 pieces. the stern section will be omitted as the interior cabin will " sit inside" this area.
the forward section, will be screwed down in place, as this will hold the master switch gear, which will be accessed through 2 of the forward opening hatches pictured earlier in my posts. this then allows operation of the boat without need to fully remove the upper cabin every time.
Its a lot of explanation now, but "simples" once its actually in situ, so please bear with me for a while till the thread gets that far!.
I have also now recieved the final item of lettering from barrys model lettering, which was the stern name plate. I have to admit, barry does some excellent decals and well worth a purchase from him for any boat, let alone a Lifeboat.
(http://s11.postimage.org/8x9a4lb0f/P1011228c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8x9a4lb0f/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/kyu58pl5d/P1011231c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kyu58pl5d/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/v6dlnv597/P1011232c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v6dlnv597/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/iufao46sb/P1011223c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iufao46sb/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/gh2d6n473/P1011192.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gh2d6n473/)
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I thought one of the main features of the forum was to get & give advice where appropriate. It is up to you to accept graciously or refuse it if not suitable for you. Somewhere on this thread the lines got crossed. Reading the thread I feel no put down was given or intended. I don't think Neil intended it that way either. We should move on & drop the hard words, what is the point ? NONE.
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NEIL.
You promised NOT to post any further items on this build thread, yet you insist on doing so.
Kindly stick to your own words and leave this thread alone.
I never asked for your advise on the propshafts and from your attitude and "pressure" to follow YOUR instructions I never will.
PLEASE leave this thread alone for the benefit of other more interested followers.
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Many thanks Martin.
It's reassuring to note someone else thinks the same as myself.
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Now that the internal hull cross bracing has fully dried. I have now cut the centre sections out of 2 braces, this is to allow the cabin interior to drop below the deck level, as it will be attached [not permanently] to the upper cabin. I have also added some wooden braces in the forward section, these will allow me to secure the access panel for the electrical kit. This lot does not need total access once setup, so best to hide it away from falling screwdrivers and sticky fingers. the main batteries will be accessable as you lift the cabin up for simplicity.
(http://s12.postimage.org/snn7yc2ll/P1011233c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/snn7yc2ll/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/umioykrqp/P1011236.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/umioykrqp/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/3nfstpfnf/P1011238c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3nfstpfnf/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/8y9izmk2x/P1011240c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8y9izmk2x/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/8v5hbwlmj/P1011241.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8v5hbwlmj/)
As you can see from this last image. Once the cover plate is secure "over" the main electrical kit, it then permits the top of the cover to carry the main swich gear, which can be accessed through the 2 forward access covers, so there is no need to then keep having to lift off/back on, the main cabin assembly everytime you want to go sailing.
"IF" I was going to use ordinary nimh batteries, this is also where I would locate a charging point, so you can charge the batteries whilst still in the hull, but being as they will be Lipo's, I much prefer to remove and charge in a safer loaction.
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I have now made up a hull cross brace, from which teh electrical panel tray is supported. This tray will hold all the electrical items for the boat.
So the "Action Electronics", ie, P94 dual Esc, P102 Power board, P95/2 motor fuse panel, P103 dual battery panel, " P100 noisey thing & P101 amplifier" will be sited. The majority of items are held within black protective boxes, those that are not are held clear of the wooden panel by plastic spacer bushes, this ensures no electrical shorting underneath the panel if any water or buildup of damp occurs.
(http://s11.postimage.org/xcygeyzan/P1011246c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xcygeyzan/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/sjshfdoxt/P1011248c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sjshfdoxt/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/wpuhsbw3d/P1011249c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wpuhsbw3d/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/54aka156z/P1011251c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/54aka156z/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/tj505thyn/P1011255c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tj505thyn/)
To also add a little more protection to the electrics, I have also retained part of the deck I cut away to enable the interior to sit inside. This will then be screwed down for normal use, but easily removed, should the need arise to access the electrical panel items. The pic below shows the panel "in place" but not as yet secured, just to show what I mean.
(http://s8.postimage.org/rbdsl8br5/P1011256c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rbdsl8br5/)
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Not much free time today, so i decided to have a look at the engine exhausts. Firstly, I "naturally presumed" there were going to be some white metal ones supplied in the metcalf fittings kit .....WRONG! None whatsoever. So I ordered some resin cast ones from MAc's Mouldings,along with a few other items mentioned earlier, but after looking at these resin ones, i decided they were too large in diameter for this hull, with the original moulded detents in the glass fibre.
So time to make my own. I used some 7/16th plastruct tube for simplicity and lightness, plus its easier to bond other items to them. I cut a couple of discs to create the flaps from some plastic sheet, then cut out some hinges. I filed a small detent in the tops of the tubes, to allow a small piece of smaller plastruct tube in, to act as the pivot.
So, once assembled, the exhaust flaps are full hinged, as I intend to pass some "cooling water" out of these pipes as the boat is in motion.
I did however save the outer circular resin discs from the mac's ones, drilled out the centres to leave a flat disc with a ring of bolt heads. This then had the back face sanded down to a more realistic thickness, so it looks like a piece of stainless plate, not armour plate, so these will be fitted as the surrounds, around the exhaust outlets on the stern.
(http://s12.postimage.org/bdka9y2q1/P1011266c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bdka9y2q1/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/lklvd34pn/P1011267c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lklvd34pn/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/sfd4c1hl5/P1011268c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sfd4c1hl5/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/e64g162mf/P1011269c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e64g162mf/)
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Looking good, I made working exhaust fittings on mine. They're deffinitely worth doing and look the part once in place. It's coming along very nicely, look forward to seeing it. Maybe at Wicksteed, or one of the Lifeboat days maybe?? Dave. :-))
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What a great build, I keep checking daily to check your progress.
Where do you get your small springs for use on your hatch covers.
G.B.
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Thanks for your comments, much appreciated.
the hatch springs are "self made". I followed a "trick" I read in the original build in Model Boats, back in 2004.
They simply coiled a piece of brass wire around a suitably sized rod, alllowing sufficient brass wire at each end to create the lever arms. then cut the spring in half. Then slide both pieces on to the hatch pivot rod. press closely together, so the spring looks complete, but in fact its not, as brass wire would not bend many times before breaking, plus trying to purchase and bend spring wire is fairly difficult, but this little trick suffices.
What I also did, was to cut a slot in to the glass fibre, below the spring arm boxes on the foredeck, so I could bond them in more securely from underneath, rather than rely on a simply weak dab of glue from above. id rather do these sorst of bonding jobs now, than have to keep applying glue over the top of the finished paintwork several times afterwardas, or each time someone "test fits" the fittings for you whilst on display somewhere. Afterall, you cant be standing by it every miinute its away from your home base.
As an update on the exhausts, heres a few pictures of the painted items, prior to a test fit to check where I can locate the water pipes to them.
(http://s9.postimage.org/ofmidbeln/P1011278c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ofmidbeln/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/germns5dx/P1011279c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/germns5dx/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/ejq0rey7f/P1011280c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ejq0rey7f/)
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And exhausts in situ...........
(http://s12.postimage.org/7hb38bxw9/P1011281.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7hb38bxw9/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/p8mpmsdax/P1011282.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p8mpmsdax/)
the internal ends of the pipes were blanked off and some adaptors bonded in to accept the silicone water pipe from the water scoop intake [yet to be fitted].
(http://s12.postimage.org/kue8ay2qh/P1011284.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kue8ay2qh/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/65j5yz7hn/P1011287c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/65j5yz7hn/)
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Hi Greg
How do you plan to fit/seal the deck now that you have sprayed the hull and fitted the fendering?
Russ
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I still have the main electrical panel to finish wiring up, plus make some bases up for the battery packs, all of which are better/easier done whilst the deck is still not fully fixed down.
Same goes for the mounting for the rudder servo and water pickup for the engine exhausts.
But, being as I have a full wooden frame around the hull edge, it will be easy enough to bond down with cascamite and give a virtually "guaranteed 100% bond".
I will however be bonding on a sheet of styrene over the wooden deck, as this will allow me to use styrene to make up the toe boards. These will be stronger made from this, as using such a small size of wood strip, the slightest knock to the railings would cause the tow board to snap. So me thinks styrene would be better, but to get a good strong bond, rather than trying to bond plastic to wood, on such a thin base, its easier to bond the plastic to the wood over a much larger area, spreading the bonding surface and loading, then the plastic simply welds to itself on the toe boards [and other deck fittings too].
Call it "belt n braces" again, I'm full of it [ha ha].
With this build, Im looking for the thing to "last" and be able to take the odd knock with some flexibility, So I'd rather build it with the long term in mind.
Same goes for the hull, now that the decals have had time to dry off, along with the red/yellow stripes, I will be giving the hull a good coat of laquer to finish it off, rather than risk scratching the paintwork on that if it comes against something floating semi surface in the water somewhere, Well, "you never know" and having to repair/paint 2 tone paintwork aint easy or nice to do. Whereas a scratch in the laquer is easily touched in and repolished.
But word of warning, be careful with overdoing the number of coats you apply. the thinners in each coat can "reactivate" the layer below and cause the psint to "move" which in turn causes the paint to crack and seperate. Several layers is normally applied over many days/weeks if not using a bake oven. I used to work in the car repair trade so know this only too well. I know you "know" what you are doing Dave, but for the sake of others seeing all the paint going on our boats of late. using aerosols in a "home" situation needs time for the thinners to evaporate, even with "gentle warming" of the room you are spraying in. Easy rule. 1 coat = 2 days to fully dry. 2nd coat = 3 days to dry. Each further coat will take longer to "fully" dry due to the "soak" effect in through the under layers, so beware folks.
Rush the spraying [thinking it is touch dry and ok for the next] and you can risk severe damage. maybe not immediately, but give it a couple of months and the cracks will appear and by then it will be a lot harder to rectify as all the paint will have to come off and start all over again.
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"Anti Slip" surface on roof and foredeck on the mersey. I looked at using a commercial "anti stone chip" type paint, but the finish is too "smooth", plus no where near to scale, So I have tried another source. "wet & dry" sandpaper! Well it accapts being put in water for sanding purposes, so it should recieve a coat or three of paint too. [Fingers crossed].But heres a pic or two of the sections Ive attached to my mersey. Waht grade? ..........................120 grit. Too fine and the paint will simply fill all the grit up, too coarse and it will look like a gravel driveway.
(http://s11.postimage.org/hzi6ogpxr/P1011276.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hzi6ogpxr/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/e5iaw45gr/P1011277c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e5iaw45gr/)
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Thanks for the painting 'tip' Greg. I didn't know that information. I shall relax between spraying in future. :-))
ken
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Hi. I am building the 16TH Severn and for the anti slip deck I used Aluminium Oxide Powder mixed into the paint and them with a small varnish brush DABB it on to the service keep stirring the mixture at all times, just one coat was needed and then dilute 50/50 the colour and DABB that on too till you are happy with the colour I put on three coats, NEVER brush it on then the same with varnish 50/50 Satin with Matt, :-)) worked for me.
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Paint, especially any that is "thinners based" can be nasty stuff when over applied. BUT it takes time for it to all "react" underneath. Once the resultant "crazing" appears on the surface, its too late, the damage is done and nothing except total removal to base material and start again, will ever do it justice again.
Water based paint these days are more safer to use and don't suffer from this internal reaction, but more expensive to purchase. But I dare say the regulations that hit the motor trade and commercial painting trades will hit the hobby end eventually, but thats another story and full of "mines" currently, so we won't "go there".
Providing sufficient time is allowed to elapse for the thinners in the paint that is applied to fully evaporate and this does go beyond it being actually "touch dry". PLEASE remember that that is only on the surface, it takes many hours for the paint to fully "cure" in a natural envioronment. Thats why car repair shops run cars and panels through an "oven" to "bake" the paint, this get the paint that hot the thinners is evaporated out and bakes the paint layer nice and evenly. Be wary of applying direct heat to a sprayed item. Alwasy heat the "ambient air" and get the room to an even temperature, normally about half an hour before you begine to spray is best, as it also then gives the item to be painted time to come up to the same temperature too, making the paint easier to apply as the panel is warm and the paint "flows" readily.
DON'T use a hot air gun or a heater with an electrical element in, as both have very hot filaments in and if the "overspray" gets too dense, it could ignite against the element and cause a flash fire.
Call me over cautious, but ive done enough "risk assessments" on stuff like this to write my own safety manuals [ha ha].
Right, sermon over for today, I just hope that the above helps to explain a bit better to all of you about the insider info on spraying paint. its not just a case of shaking ***t out of your wrist till the rattle of the can drives everyone mad, then going for broke and seeing how quickly you can empty the can and then counting all the "runs", til they merge.
The white primer has been applied over the superstructure, now that the glue has dried overnight on the anti slip deck sections. A light first/dust coat was applied and allowed to dry for an hour before a heavier second coat was sprayed on.
The paint was then left for 24hrs before a second primer coat was applied, just before the paint was left to dry,a slight dust of "top colour" was drifted on, as this allows me to check all the panels for smoothness and any problem areas, as white primer is difficult to see faults in.
(http://s12.postimage.org/mla62gaqx/P1011291c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mla62gaqx/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/tbrzah07p/P1011292c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tbrzah07p/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/vudob5lxx/P1011293c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vudob5lxx/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/5bag5pnzl/P1011294.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5bag5pnzl/)
The painting will now halt for 2 days to allow the paint to harden and the thinners evaporate off, but the build will continue with "other items".
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Whilst the primer is still drying on the cabin, work has recommenced inside the hull.
I have now installed the water pickup for the engine exhaust outlets. the pickup itself ive mounted high up on the inside of one of the prop tunnels, so its not too obtrusive or likely to be snagged on anything.
I then ran the hose to a "T" piece before routing the hoses round to the 2 exhausts, making sure the hoses will not foul the rudder operation at the same time, so allowing plenty of "flex" in the hoses.
(http://s7.postimage.org/6hpip21vb/P1011306.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6hpip21vb/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/yczdbufeh/P1011310.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yczdbufeh/)
I have also now added the rudder servo mount. As you can see from the above pics, this was mounted on 2 runners, bonded to the tops of both prop tunnels, using a under braced ply sheet across the top.
The try was made sufficiently wider to enable me to add a couple of cable clips, which secure the water hoses and prevent then fouling the servo link arms to the rudders.
(http://s8.postimage.org/4uqkhva9t/P1011309.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4uqkhva9t/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/ydhabfrzj/P1011313.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ydhabfrzj/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/vtpbsbvxh/P1011316c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vtpbsbvxh/)
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The upper cabin primer coat has now fully dried and been wet sanded with 800 grade paper. it has also been remasked and the top orange coat applied. i have to admit that the sand paper I used for the anti slip deck areas has come out really well. it has given a nice uniform covering and not as potentially "hit and miss" when using the "add loose grit" to the paint prior to painting option. By simply cutting the sand sheet to size, glue bonding it down, then overpainting is far the easiest and achieves a good result, which i have tried to capture in the pictures, but as always, its far better seen "in the flesh".
(http://s11.postimage.org/iwjicp5rz/P1011297c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iwjicp5rz/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/ulbk0xocp/P1011302c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ulbk0xocp/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/kpah1aikp/P1011305.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kpah1aikp/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/7ppyum1on/P1011301c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7ppyum1on/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/5ol3a30m3/P1011321.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5ol3a30m3/)
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<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rTI76AlVzMw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
http://youtu.be/rT176AIVzMw
The motor side of the Action Electronics electrical board is fully wired up, so nows my chance to give the hull its very first water trial.
the battery I used was for testing only, but being a 12v 7amp/hr, was sufficient to test the twin 900's out for a few minutes.
I only tried her up to 2/3rd throttle, but as you can clearly see, it definately has sufficient "reserve" of power, should the need arise, but I doubt if anything above 1/4 throttle will ever be needed to sail it at near scale speeds.
For my next trick, I will power up the Action Electronics sound system.
So, watch this space!
(http://s12.postimage.org/ccjhelt3t/100_4453.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ccjhelt3t/)
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I have finally managed to glue down the main deck of the hull, now that the cross deck formers are sanded and shaped to suit the angles of the walkways. I have temporarily drilled and screwed the outer edge to teh wooden hull edge bearers, to enable me to get a clean bonded edge, plus hold the damm thuing down whilst the glue dries. The inner edge is simply clamped down with croc clamps.
The Action Electronics sound system is all working ok, as a temporary measure I connected up to a seperate 11.1 lipo stick battery, untill a 12v one arrives in the post. I wanted to keep the battery supplies for motors and sound seperate, so the sound system does not flatten the drive batteries whilst out having too much fun.
http://youtu.be/mx9WmVVoeMY
(http://s7.postimage.org/7flmfd8af/P1011377c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7flmfd8af/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/cxwgngipb/P1011378c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cxwgngipb/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/wfr43efnd/P1011379c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wfr43efnd/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/pgvfn1r7l/P1011380c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pgvfn1r7l/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/s4yt19kqf/P1011381c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s4yt19kqf/)
The bonding agent Ive used for this is Cascamite, having found it to be so super strong once fully dried, plus its waterproof and Id hate to risk the deck coming off in a couple of months time!
the hull/deck assembly will now be left to allow the glue to dry, so its back on to the upper cabin again for a while, but at least i still have loads of things to build yet.
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I'd just like to ask a question.
Why did you not cut the shafts back nearer the tube, thereby moving the motors back to where they ought to be. Or am I missing something here ?(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/thinking1.gif)
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The motors had to be placed where they are simply due to the angle of the shafts coming through the tunnels, in to the inside of the hull. if i had of wanted to mount the motors closer to the tunnels, I would of had to angle the prop shafts even steeper, thus reducing prop thrust as they would be pushing down at a steeper angle, rather than simply pushing water backwards.
Afterall, the idea is to get as much propulsion force in one direction, so best to puch backwards, rather than have the shafts angled too steeply so it tries to lift the stern of the boat as its driven forwards.
But, dont forget, there is no golden rule as to where anyone should or should not mount stuff, its still basically down to personal taste and ideas, everyone should be encouraged to try ideas out, as afterall, thats how we all learn different things and not be forced in to strict guideleines. If someone wants guidelines, then they simply go buy a kit build with numbered instructions.
if you would like to check back through the earlier posts, this question was asked before and pictures were posted which highlighted the motor mount positions, so you can clearly see whay the motors are mounted where they are.
To be honest, after doing an initial water test in the most conveniently sized tank, namely the "bath", this motor position gives the hull a nice even balance and allows for the weight of the batteries in the larger/flatter stern area, rather than trying to cramp them in towards the bows.
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I am still waiting for the hull to deck "bond" to fully cure, so i have started the build of the radar and navigation light assembly.
this is easy to construct the basic shape, the lower panels will be added later, but just to give you an idea, plus show the geared motor I have locate which fits in to the radar motor pod and wil rotate the radar head at approximately 60 rpm.
(http://s9.postimage.org/5y99k766z/P1011382.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5y99k766z/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/dfigzevq3/P1011383.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dfigzevq3/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/spic6lr8b/P1011384.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/spic6lr8b/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/weymq7h6n/P1011385.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/weymq7h6n/)
The wiring will be routed down the cable trunks as per lifesize version, no problem.
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If anyone is waiting for a set of windows for a "Trent" from Speedline Models. I HAVE BEEN SENT THEM ! By Mistake.
So you will have to wait a short while for them to be returned, once Speedline finally get my order right.
heres a link to a short video clip of the radar motor. http://youtu.be/P4lxKDWobJE
running a 3v battery, this motor give 60rpm, which looks as near as I can match to correct rotation speed. Obviously if not, i can always add another cell to the pack and quicken it up, but the references I can get to seem to suggest this is near enough.
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I'd just like to ask a question.
Why did you not cut the shafts back nearer the tube, thereby moving the motors back to where they ought to be. Or am I missing something here ?
Dicky, it looks like the shaft outers have been installed butting up to the A-bracket instead of just a small amount protruding from the hull into the tunnel and more running inside the hull with a supporting 'wedge' - which causes the inners to look way too long {:-{
Mark.
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Dicky, it looks like the shaft outers have been installed butting up to the A-bracket instead of just a small amount protruding from the hull into the tunnel and more running inside the hull with a supporting 'wedge' - which causes the inners to look way too long {:-{
Mark.
Oh, right, so in effect the shafts should be exposed on the outside and the tube should be inside the hull.
They've been put in the wrong way round then, I thought that might be the case. :-))
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running a 3v battery, this motor give 60rpm, which looks as near as I can match to correct rotation speed. Obviously if not, i can always add another cell to the pack and quicken it up, but the references I can get to seem to suggest this is near enough.
[ if you want the right speed it should be only 26 RPM just in case you wish to change it before you go to far
Phil.]
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Most nav radars run at around 24-28 RPM
This is something that if scaled down would not
look right
At 1:12 that would be 2 RPM which would look wrong
Ned
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At 60rpm it would look like a heli rotor, but if you play with the voltage you can get it down to 25/26rpm which will look scale. You may have to put a resistor in the wiring to get it correct. Mick B.
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Thanks for that info guys, much appreciated. I will try to reduce the voltage supply first, via resistor, but dealing with only 3v, it may be difficult,, but will try before swapping for a lower rpm motor
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The motor you are using will be fine I use the same one, just reduce the voltage as you said, its not hard & you can buy resistors for pennies from the component shop, they will even tell you how much a specific resistor will reduce the voltage. Mick B.
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Thanks for that info guys, much appreciated. I will try to reduce the voltage supply first, via resistor, but dealing with only 3v, it may be difficult,, but will try before swapping for a lower rpm motor
Change to a single cell battery, that should reduce your voltage by half, and if you're using a Nixx cell the voltage will stabilise at around 1.2v-1.3v giving you approx 24-26rpm :-))
Mark.
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At 1:12 that would be 2 RPM which would look wrong
Ned
Ned
Are you serious? Angular rotational speed isn't subject to scaling factors like linear speed is. One revolution is always one revolution, irrespective of how big the revolving thing is, and a minute is always a minute (ignoring the effect of travelling near light speed......or a slow watch). Thus 30RPM at 1/12 scale is the same as 30RPM at full scale - or any other scale.
GregK9
Your motor may not start at below 3v, in which case reducing the battery size would be pointless.
DM
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Thats what I meant it still had to run around 24 RPM I just put it over badly :(( :((
Ned
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Thats what I meant it still had to run around 24 RPM I just put it over badly :(( :((
Ned
Thank god for that, thought I was having an old moment. :embarrassed:
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Ive rechecked the info that came with the motor, plsu a recheck on their website and its actually 30 rpm.
I have tried reducing the voltage, simply out of curiosity, but the motor will not drive, the emf is too low to kick the armature over. Did try a search f my electrical bits box for some resistores, but after finding the full details out about the motor, i dotn really thinks it is necessary to try and attempt to lower by 4 rpm, thats going way over the top.
Incidentally Dave [Action] the electronics are superb, all wired up no problem, I just "adjusted" a wiring diiagram off your site for the "Dusseldorf" and all works fine.
The sound system is fine too. Simply love the engien startup as you can hear both of them kick in individually.
I just need to find a sound sample for the caterpillar units on startup/shutdown now to compliment your cat engine running sound bit.
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A FAVOUR TO ASK........................................
I have photo's of a mersey lifeboat, no problem, I have copies of the RNLI plans, but what I don't have is the measurements of the small access "hole" opposite to the fire hydrant point in the forward upper cabin..
Could anyone be kind enough to enlighten me please.
(http://s9.postimage.org/n6iyth7p7/PICT0137.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n6iyth7p7/)
Its the "aperture", just forward of the engine access cover.
I would like to be able to cut this in correct position, rather than simply guess at it.
many thanks in advance.
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Many thanks to the kind person that sent me a "pm" with the info on the item I asked about, its a pity they did not wish to be named by a public reply, but they seemed reluctant to do so for some reason, but never mind. I can now sort that part of the build out now, in due course.
now that the upper cabin paintwork has fully dried out. I can now continue work on the anti slip surface. It was necessary to paint the item complete, to get a decent substantial coat of pain on everything, rather than start masking different areas off for nor real specific reason. i lightely sanded the anti slip surfaces and have applied a matt coat of clear laquer to finish off. this now gives the correct effect and well worth waiting for.
I perfer to let any paint coat stand for a few days, to allow all the thinners to dry out of it, otherwise if you recoat too soon, the pain can potentially "react" with the newer cat, causing to to craze or crack, so best left to air dry for as long as possible in my books. It also allows me to carry on doing other jobs on the build.
(http://s7.postimage.org/b6xg31h13/P1011386.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b6xg31h13/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/ajkujakfd/P1011387c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ajkujakfd/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/hzxszb7uf/P1011388c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hzxszb7uf/)
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Greg,
On the picture you have just posted showing the access hole you wanted the position of I can see small black numbers in a red circle.
Do you or anyone else know where thes can be obtained from,as I am going to need a full set for a 1/16 severn class lifeboat.
Gerard
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Greg,
On the picture you have just posted showing the access hole you wanted the position of I can see small black numbers in a red circle.
Do you or anyone else know where thes can be obtained from,as I am going to need a full set for a 1/16 severn class lifeboat.
Gerard
Why not use lettering packs from Becc or Barry's Model Lettering? The red sets have circles in them, then just figure out what size lettering you'd need for the numbers. That's how I did the ones on my 1/16 Trent, Dave. :-))
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Thanks for that Dave I will have a look atb those sites.
Gerard
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To make things a bit easier to operate, especially the master electrical switches for the P94 esc and Action sound unit for example. I am utilising 2 of the forward deck hatches to "hide" them under. Well it saves having to keep lifting the complete upper cabin on/off every time. this means the only time the cabin needs to be removed is to gain access to the battery packs for charging.
The switches will be mounted on the forward section of the deck floor, which was cut out originally when the deck was fitted. this is removeable, after taking out a couple of screws and then acts as a "splash shield" over the electrical circuit board. So just in case it hits any heavy water, the risk of water dropping on to the electrics is reduced. no, I won't say the risk is eliminated, thats pushing my luck too far [ha ha].
the main master power switch, due to its current carrying capacity is quite a heavy unit, so only needs a firmer base mount plate, whereas the sound unit and "other switchgear" are smaller in size, so they have a raised "pod" for their mount, saving fingers having to probe too deeply to switch on/off.
the pictures show the initial start of the panel, the raised pod is yet to get its top lid.
(http://s10.postimage.org/ux41aq511/P1011392.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ux41aq511/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/rtp2ir4zj/P1011393.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rtp2ir4zj/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/3lefoj717/P1011394.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3lefoj717/)
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I have recieved some pioctures of my boat on its first "sea trials" as its a bit tricky to take pictures and operate the controls at the same time.
All went well, no leaks, motors did not even get warm and the driveshafts too full power without a problem. It did give a good almost scale cruising speed, running on a temporary 12v gel battery, even if a bit heavier than it should be, hence its waterline appearance in the pictures, but once running on correct batteries, it will be a bit lighter and I can get the weight balance a lot better.
I am running 50mm 4 blade props at present and it seems to perform ok and gives a reasonable r, but will have to see how things go with the correct battery sticks, once the arrive in the post. I do have the originally supplied 4 blade 55mm props in the spares box, but they were supplied for brushless motors, but no harm in testing out at some stage.
The Action P94 Dual Esc took care of the turns buy slowing the inner turn motor, along with the rudder control, so no need for "tank steering" at all. I can stay with using normal transmitter stick setup, which then allows me to operate "other functions" on them too.
The Action sound unit certanly echoes across the open water too. the water seemed to help the bass out a lot, making it sound far better outside/in water than it sitting on a bench with the system running.
(http://s11.postimage.org/oe2vljevz/P1011405c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oe2vljevz/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/mhjxm8ad7/P1011406c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mhjxm8ad7/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/j2nz0tstl/P1011407c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j2nz0tstl/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/od6pxdz7f/P1011408.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/od6pxdz7f/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/n5jldncbj/P1011409c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n5jldncbj/)
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Hi when I was taken photos of the lifeboat yesterday I remembered you wanted the size of the cut out opposite side to the fire hydrant the size on this boat is 295mm high by 200mm wide hope this helps
John
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have you got any pictures of it at speed?
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Thanks John for the dimensions, its appreciated.
And, er no, sorry no pics of the Mersey "at speed", I was not in control of the camera, so could only accept what was taken on my behalf and of what the boat was doing at the time.
maybe next time it goes for a paddle, I can get someone else at the helm of the controls whilst I do the photoshoot.
Ive FINALLY recieved a set of the correct windows from Speedline models after waiting patiently for over 6 weeks and having a set of "Severn class" sent in error a couple of weeks ago.
I have to admit it was most unusual for Speedline to make such an error, So I can start assembly of these and get them installed shortly.
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must be just your bad luck with your replacement windows.I had two sets of the same side (port) enclosed with my order.I made a phone call,and was given loads of apologies,and received a replacement set two days later.I reckon it only took two days,because I rang late in the day,if I had rung earlier,I am sure the replacements would have been received the next day.
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I have to admit that the long wait for the Speedline window kit is well worth it. the laser cutting accuracy of all the window items,makes building them very easy. they only require appplication of "plasticweld" to bond them together [As recommended by Speedline].
To try and get a bit of age/colour to the frames Ive opted to use Tamiya "titanium silver", this having a slightly greyer hue than using straight/bright silver or aluminium colour. This did take a couple of coats to deepen up and fully cover over the clear perspex, so best to take time here.
Prior to installing the actual "inner glazing unit" to the outer frame, I took the liberty of painting the inner edge, which abuts the inner glazing, so removes the necessity of masking later and risk of getting paint on the glazing.
Once fully dry, the last piece was bonded to the frame with plasticweld and left to fully dry before installation in the upper cabin.
the windows were bonded in the cabin with a very thin application of epoxy resin around the frame edge and gently lowered in place and held with some masking tape untill the glue had set.
(http://s11.postimage.org/wdggvn8en/P1011410.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wdggvn8en/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/if1mv8j7p/P1011412.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/if1mv8j7p/)
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Firstly, appologies for the absence of updates, but i have had to undergo further medical surgery to the nerves in my left arm, so been out of action for a while, but this build is the best physiotherapy anyone could ask for, as it is helping me to regain the full dexterity in my fingers again.
I have made up the base frame for the rudder post cover, well its alwast a "better to have" thing, than hope for the best and something happens "down under" and you cant simply reach the control arms or something. I firstly inlaid a ledge under the main deck, this is where the top styrene cover will sit, as the wooden base, which was kept from the original deck cutout. A couple of wooden shaped formers were made, using the cut deck edges as pattern, then bonded to the underside of the cover. a couple of cross braces making up a rectangular frame.
Once fully dry the top wooden face was scored using a dremel, so the epoxy resin has something to grip to, same goes for the underside of the styrene, make sure to sand this well so the glue can bond to it.
one the glue was applied and its position checked, it was clamped up to dry.
please remember, once the epoxy has begun to set, carefull cut off the excess glue before it fully dries, as its easiert o do it now, rather than having to file/grind it off later once its gone rock solid.
(http://s8.postimage.org/cliumnww1/100_4498c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cliumnww1/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/qa81fs7kb/100_4500.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qa81fs7kb/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/d7cewihcb/100_4501.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d7cewihcb/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/pbrodhu8b/100_4503c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pbrodhu8b/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/mspzttbhz/100_4505c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mspzttbhz/)
I have also added a couple of additional wooden underbraces, under the main deck, at the sides of the rudder cover, this will enable the uses of a couple of small screws to hold the cover in place and help reduce water ingress by ensuring a tight fit with the cover, rather than reliant upon gravity to hold in place. its also one less piece that falls off every time you pick it up too!
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Now that the deck is in place, I can get round to finishing off the rear deck of the flying bridge, as this has been left hanging in mid air for some time. But without the deck in place and knowing its curvature, final shaping of these items was not practically possible.
I have also added the "wt" access hatch to the flying bridge floor, firstly cutting out a piece of the chequerplate, then using the cut our piece as a pattern to cut a slightly thicker plain styrene piece, from which the actual door and frame was marked out and using a knife, carefully cutting the line edge of the hatch door, so for all apparent purposes, the hatch could be opened, due to the thicker "edge line", rather than just simply scoring the line edge. The handle holes were marked and punched out using a leather punch and a crosss bar handle glued across the holes.
The rear deck supports started with the main centre piece, which will also hold the main mast assembly so needs to be securely bonded in, plus using a thicker styrene sheet where ness for strength. I have also added some rear braces which key in to the wooden cross brace behind this panel, just to keep things square and reduce flexing as far as possible.
The step/vent panel was next to be made, A drill used to form the corner radii of the vent grille area, before cutting out and adding some alloy mesh from behind. I appreciate the full size version is a one piece item here, but this is the best way I could find to replicate the vent grille here.
The step was added and the side supports added. The tread will be added later along with the support plates for the mast assembly.
(http://s10.postimage.org/rkag8jgfp/100_4509c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rkag8jgfp/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/lee1yyatt/100_4513.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lee1yyatt/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/szoiri8p3/100_4519.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/szoiri8p3/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/6aw0p6ewv/100_4522.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6aw0p6ewv/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/6p0nrjbev/100_4521.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6p0nrjbev/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/9aatssq6f/100_4523c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9aatssq6f/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/njqftv1ox/100_4524.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/njqftv1ox/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/kbuooxd97/100_4525c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kbuooxd97/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/iqsqix88l/100_4527.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iqsqix88l/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/hmval5ie3/100_4528.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hmval5ie3/)
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I have now made up the chequer plate step panel for the flying bridge step/ After studting pictures, the cheque rplate is bent over the front face of the step, so have a curved edge, not a welded square edge. So first job was to cut a chamfer on the plastic edge of the step, to allow for the radius of the chequer plate, careful use of a sharp knife here, better to make several passes, than one over deep cut and cut clean through the styrene.
(http://s10.postimage.org/cvpg38b2d/100_4533.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cvpg38b2d/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/3o4lw3hi9/100_4534.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3o4lw3hi9/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/dzgyor97l/100_4535c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dzgyor97l/)
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I have installed a couple of the electrical switches, in to their respective panels. the first and most important is the master power switch, this is positioned under the foremost hatch cover and will be kept as a single switch, so no mistaking it for anything else, even though it is clearly labelled. the second switch panel will carry further switches in due course, but for now, the switch fitted is for the Action sound module. Again using the hatch covers, so you only need to open hatches to switch the boat on. You only need to remove the main superstructure for battery access, fo either recharge or swapping.
(http://s7.postimage.org/j188tut2f/100_4529c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j188tut2f/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/q17c9bwcb/100_4531c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q17c9bwcb/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/uz6i512ep/100_4532.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uz6i512ep/)
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Really nice build mate,
Like the idea with the switch gear, very neat install.
adam
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Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated.
i tend to find a majority of people put all the switchgear inside the boat when they build it, but it makes switching both the power and other "accessories" a bit of a chore every time.
yes i do know about r/c switches, but you cant beat a proper on/off switch for certain functions, especially the master power one. but fiting them this way makes it easier to operate the boat once poolside as you dont have to keep lifting the superstructure to do so.
one of the hatches doe open to reveal a proper locker undernmeath, but the other two serve as switch covers.
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Might be worth putting a charging socket in the third locker so you can also charge the batteries easily.
Just a thought.
Love the build so far
Ned
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Hi Greg,
A great build, would like to do somethung similar.
How do you keep the hatches shut and watertight during sailing.
Gerard
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I did think about a charging socket, but I am running Lipo batteries, so due to the "nervouse nature" of lipo batteries, I prefer to recharge these out of the boat. otherwise if running nimh or led/gel I would of fitted a socket, no problem,, as I do have them installed in other boats.
The hatches are a "click fit" on their surrounds, so once closed, they stay shut surprisingly enough. the hatch surround does stand pround by about 4mm so there is a fair "overlap" to reduce this risk But, id not be sailing in weather that is likely to break water over the hatches anyway. As a seconndary lock, I will be adding a "little something" extra, but that is not for the build thread yet, so sorry, cant give the game away yet!
I admit it is a Lifeboat, but only a model, not full scale and the water tightness of models cannot be totally guaranteed, although yes, some people do manage to depict these demonstrating a full "roll over", check U tube out and see for yourself.
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I have sorted a few minor items out today, making up the inner liner for one of the forward lockers, adding the partitions and topping with some plastruct tubing, cut along its length, as you would with water pipe insulation, to protect the sharp edge of the partition tops.
I have now sanded down the plastic rod/s I used to simulate the engine cover bolt heads, so now they are a more realistic height. I have also made up the small cover plates for the deck hatch springs to sit in, to prevent them from rotating when the hatches are opened/closed.
I have also made up the basic design of the Df aerial, still needs a little detailling, but its "getting there!
One last item for today was to make up a couple of flying bridge screen hinge brackets, so the screen finally has some location for me to work from.
(http://s11.postimage.org/jyc8ex5rj/P1011156c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jyc8ex5rj/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/62e5kugn5/P1011159.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/62e5kugn5/)
Hi Gregk9
Just reading up on your build of the Mersey.. Great job.. I had intended to build one years ago but due to 'issues' I lost the will but now that I have rejoined, the 'bug' has come back..
Just one query. I see you are building your Mersey with the old style D/F aerial. Any particular reason why?
Regards
Declan
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I was asked to build one of those for a freind. I just happened to post a picture on here with it in place thats all, as this particular boat does not have one fitted, using a later radio.
(http://s17.postimage.org/x453uf73v/untitled.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x453uf73v/)
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I was asked to build one of those for a freind. I just happened to post a picture on here with it in place thats all, as this particular boat does not have one fitted, using a later radio.
(http://s17.postimage.org/x453uf73v/untitled.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x453uf73v/)
No problem. Was just curious. I remember the old style DFvon lifeboat 12-29 (Newcastle, Co Down). Just rejoined the station. Hopefully as a nice christmas pressy, HQ will have me enrolled as crew for both Inshore and All Weather boat within the next week or two.
Declan
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Good Luck to you Declan
Remember the old saying
'One hand for the ship and one for yourself'
It's stopped me from an involuntary swim more than once.
Ned
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Good Luck to you Declan
Remember the old saying
'One hand for the ship and one for yourself'
It's stopped me from an involuntary swim more than once.
Ned
You only forget that the once {-).
Hope to get a load of photographs of our Mersey so that I have them for when I get back to building the 12th scale Mersey. Hopefully should have enough funds after christmas to buy the hull and superstructure from Models by Design.
Declan
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Not done manything to the boat over the last 3 weeks, as ive let my recent operation on the nerves in my arm heal properly, as i think I tried a bit too soon last time and it did not do any good.
So getting back in to things "slowly".
The main drive batteries have now arrived, so I can now start a few sea trials to get the hull balanced properly, same goes with the battery pack for the sound controller.
I have also installed a water circulating pump, to run the exhaust cooling water pipes. i tried with just using a simple water pickup, but it did not draw in sufficient water to give much effect. So after a bit of searching, ive managed to source a water circulating pump, usually found in a drinks machine. runs off 7 - 12v dc, so i can adapt the battery voltage to get the water output looking right.
(http://s11.postimage.org/bs75ww47z/100_4557c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bs75ww47z/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/kvrzdzkpf/100_4553.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kvrzdzkpf/)
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From the packet of "goodies" I purchased from MAC's Moulding's are the deck lights. I first filled in the open areas of the "glass bit" with a double layer of "glue n glaze" to fill them in, but stay clear and prevent water getting at the internal led's. I installed the leds by drilling a suitable diameter hole at an angle of about 30 degrees downwards. So the light shines downwards and not directly straight out the sides of the lamp, giving abettre light effect, plus it means the led is virtually buried in the glass fibre deck sides, so well protected from damage, once sealed in with some expoy.
The led's were looped together in to a circuit, so they can be operated together.
I have also started on the toe boards. first the base plates were plastic welded to the deck and then once fully cured, the upright kick boards are attached , again using plasticweld to ensure a full glue bond and reduce risk of being knocked off.
(http://s16.postimage.org/3u3a69m0x/100_4558.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3u3a69m0x/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/f7x4fx31p/100_4559.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f7x4fx31p/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/yl7b7wk2r/100_4560.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yl7b7wk2r/)
The resin cast lamps are yet to be painted, once painted, the light emitted through the resin lamp itself will be reduced and visually better, but at least you get the general idea. The led's have their resistors, mounted slightly raised from the glass fibre and a piece of silver foil is bonded underneath them, to prevent any heat discolouring the outer paint finish, plus it also allows airflow past the resistors to keep them cool. the internal wiring was bonded to the inner wall with a hot glue gun to keep the wiring in situ.
(http://s16.postimage.org/fkh7nnetd/100_4561.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fkh7nnetd/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/vk4gky08x/100_4562.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vk4gky08x/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/89qap9nsx/100_4563.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/89qap9nsx/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/lpqjpu29j/100_4564.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lpqjpu29j/)
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Today's little teaser was to create the stern trim tabs. these have been scratch built from plasticard sheet for the main items and strip for the strengthening ribs and hinge bars. the base items being 2mm card for rigidity and 1.5mm for the ribs. All bits being bonded with plasticweld, to ensure a full bond.
As a temporary measure , all the hinge pins are 2mm plastic rod for now, they will be replaced with stainless steel bolts once tested and checked for adjustment angle whilst running. The trim tabs could well easily be made to function, usings brass rod and levers inside the hull for example, but it is not something i "need" as a function on this build, so mine will be secured, once checked for trim.
(http://s15.postimage.org/gketht87b/100_4575c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gketht87b/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/5vpzfanjx/100_4568c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5vpzfanjx/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/xbw06700h/100_4569c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xbw06700h/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/jzle4bdut/100_4570c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jzle4bdut/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ycfam0erh/100_4571c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ycfam0erh/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/57gocz7xh/100_4574.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/57gocz7xh/)
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Cabin Interior !
Its time I made sure the cabin interior actually "fits", before i go much further with locating the batteries.
I wanted to make the interior section, "removeable", so if i need to remove to reattach a seat or crew member, its no drama to do so.
How do you make it removeable?
I first added some slotted rails along both sides of the superstructure, just below the window line [inside of course]. These then "accept" the top edge of the interior "pod" and locat it centrally in the hull. I then added a flat plate to the rear of the cabin pod, as this then "hooks" under a plate bonded to the rear deck space.
to make it easily removeable, i soldered a couple of pieces of brass tubing together at one end, soldered on a brass nut to one end. then bonded the "main" brass tube to the underside of the superstructure, just off centre, between the engine access covers. this then enables me to place a set screw through the cabin floor front edge and hold it all together.
Why mount the holding bar "off centre"? Well I still have to add the angles forward deck/control panel;s, plus access door going forward, so did nto want to foul the door angle.
(http://s17.postimage.org/ys73sj12j/100_4576c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ys73sj12j/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/4q2itzzmz/100_4578.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4q2itzzmz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/cavwelyxt/100_4579.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cavwelyxt/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/jtgxg9yj1/100_4581.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jtgxg9yj1/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/jg2vyhkk7/100_4582c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jg2vyhkk7/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/xnexg6mut/100_4583c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xnexg6mut/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/9w40u6iox/100_4584c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9w40u6iox/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/gj0by7w2z/100_4585c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gj0by7w2z/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/zcm4v7uaz/100_4588c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zcm4v7uaz/)
Ive loosley fitted 2 seats, just to show how the interior will look, the table leg is yet to be aded also. But now I have some "definate location" for the cabin pod, I can move on with the inner steering position and radar/radio positions too.
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Trim tabs.
I have now managed to get the second one fitted and settled in to place. I have also added the lower fixed guide plates, which step out from the bottom of the hull and cover the hinges, to reduce the amount of water forced up over the top of the tabs.
I have set these trims at 0 degrees' . having decided that adjustale ones are not necessary on my build, i'll leave that for the more adventurous ones out there!
I just have to fabricate the anti fouling blocks and cables, then add them to the trim tab plates.
(http://s14.postimage.org/3uoexiywd/100_4589c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3uoexiywd/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/htlj5tsmv/100_4590c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/htlj5tsmv/)
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Hi Greg, your build is coming along real nice. I like the way you put in the water pump. It is easy to see why lifeboats are very popular with model boat builders. You are doing a very nice build there, keep it up. Happy New Year too to you & your family & I hope your arm gets well in a hurry too, we can't have you missing days from your build. Mick B.
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Many thanks for your comments, much appreciated. The nerves in my arm are settling down "slowly", its a bit like a box of fireworks going off at times, but you learn to live with it and hope the final end result brings back some form of normality in my fingers.
Tonights minor trek in to the build has taken me to start constrution of the radar mount. i have already started making the actual radar motor unit and base plate, so have now made a start on the main posts.
I first made the backing plate that abuts the steering position floor, adding the vertical uprights that hold the main vertical bars and tubes, up top the radar. to reduce the fragility of the unit, I am not making all the pivot items fully operational, these will me replicated fully, but glued in position for strength.
the lower section of uprights are simply square box tubes, with stepped out flanges at their upper ends to accept the tubular upper rods which go up to the radar unit, to add a bit of strength, I sleeved a thinner piece of plastic rod through these and up in to the upper hollow plastic rods, out of sight, but dding in strength.
(http://s7.postimage.org/o1lol1gbr/100_4595c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o1lol1gbr/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/lgykr81p9/100_4592c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lgykr81p9/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/9odmphbk5/100_4593c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9odmphbk5/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/5deam208r/100_4594c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5deam208r/)
Once the glue has fully dried, I can then add the electrical trunking conduits, which will carry the power leads for the lights and radar motor
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I took the boat out yesterday to our clubs "bit" for the RNLI SOS event. I appreciate its no where near completed, but was not going to miss this "shout"!
So after quickly wiring up the radar mast, adding a figure, simply for effect, it was put on display both on and off the water. We did succeed in getting a total of 6 Lifeboats out on the water and many thnks go to all the club members and invited guests who did turn up and also a big thankyou too all the people who kindly put their hands in their pockets and made donations to the SOS day.
The Mersey is now running with its twin 14.8v lipo setup for the motors and a seperate battery for the Action sound system. The trim tabs worked well and have reduced the "stern sink" on full throttle it had when sailed without them, so all working right.
(http://s16.postimage.org/t1btu82k1/DSC02691.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t1btu82k1/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/cg5l0oq8j/DSC02693.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cg5l0oq8j/)
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(http://s11.postimage.org/lxj6vyp3j/DSCF0741.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lxj6vyp3j/)
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I have managed to get a bit more done to the radar/aerial mast assembly, been a bit busy sorting some things out for our boat club, so had to put this to one side for a few days.
I have fitted the navigation lights, using led's [5mm] and some nice coloured lens covers from maplin, which have a diffused lens which helps filter out the directional light pattern found with most led's, so gives a more "sideways" pattern than normal. the radar mast has been added to, to take the aerial mast and masthead lamp. The cable trunk pipes are serving their purpose and are carrying al the cables required to power all the lights and power the radar motor. I still have the blue beacon to install [once it arrives] and fit the amber "bilge water warning lamp". The stern deck spotlamp is under construction currently.
(http://s15.postimage.org/mb96dl6br/DSC02736.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mb96dl6br/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/ki043kfv5/DSC02737.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ki043kfv5/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/3z8vll1yr/DSC02738.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3z8vll1yr/)
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(http://s15.postimage.org/867ypimo7/DSC02740.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/867ypimo7/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ej5y1p07l/DSC02731.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ej5y1p07l/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/twtxmtcuz/DSC02731c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/twtxmtcuz/)
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heres a few pictures of the mast with the lights connected to a bettery.
Kindly accept that there are a few "spare" witres yet to be sorted, once the blue beacon light gets here, so untill then, I cant close off the covering panels for the wiring access.
I am yet to also add a blank plate to the tops of the marker lamps, thats why theu are showing plenty of light upwards too.
Just thought Id say it before it gets commented on!
(http://s17.postimage.org/oylpxxobv/DSC02741.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oylpxxobv/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/on49l67vv/DSC02742.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/on49l67vv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/rsb365mch/DSC02743.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rsb365mch/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/x6au46haf/DSC02744.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x6au46haf/)
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Todays little task was to finish off the forward hatch covers. I first made the hatch springs out of some brass rod, coiling them round a drill bit, same diameter as the hinge pivot rod. then added a spacer tube between the inner ends of the springs to keep them spaced. I added the access handles, adapting these from some mains electrical cable clips, removing the nail and trimming the width down to suit.
The anti slip panel was then cut/shaped from some sanding paper, same used on the main deck areas. trimming to miss the handles and hinges, finally bonding down with some epoxy glue. The anti slip mat will be given a couple of coats of primer to dull the sharpness down a little, before a top "colour" coat and a final matt clearcoat.
(http://s14.postimage.org/trrs8n5n1/DSC02745.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/trrs8n5n1/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/nzxn1juvb/DSC02746.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nzxn1juvb/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/7dlczcyrp/DSC02747.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7dlczcyrp/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/qg7rrhbhn/DSC02748.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qg7rrhbhn/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/lru0xmmhj/DSC02750.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lru0xmmhj/)
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The forward hatches have had their base coat of orange primer added, so whilst drying, Ive had a go at constructing the support bar that sites above the engine panels. Kindly forgive me for not knowing its correct title, but I dont have it.
I first drew out a template on paper, taking the measurements and angles from the drawings, then gently heated some 5mm plastic tube to shape, checking against the template before it cooled and "set".
I made the bars oversize on purpose, so the tubes actually pass through their mounting points, so I can bond them in substantially, from behind, so where the bars pass through the outer skin, I have cross drilled the tubes so i can pass a piece of plastic rod through [or brass], to form a "T" section, thus adding strength once the epoxy glue is added to these points.
The forward speaker bracket was added, along with the small electrical box mounted below it. The mounting plate above the centre window was drilled in the corners and some plastic rod bonded in to simulate the mounting bolts, thes being far lighter than using brass or stainless bolts.
(http://s15.postimage.org/7lb0n8w9z/DSC02757.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7lb0n8w9z/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/54m8covaz/DSC02754.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/54m8covaz/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/fw7fw7xw3/DSC02755.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fw7fw7xw3/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/hnr7zn2it/DSC02756.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hnr7zn2it/)
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I've managed to do a few jobs tonight. Firstly, ive shortened and converted a klaxon horn to fit the mounting bracket, forward of the cabin centre window. i made the air hose from a piece of soft solder, as easily shaped and the hose will be painted later. the trumpet of the horn was drilled out and then ground a little to give it some depth and shape, rather than it be just a solid painted lump.
my next task was to make up the wiper boxes.
As you may of noticed from the earlier pictures, i had already bonded on the base strips for the wiper arms to run along [although will be fixed - non working], but at least the tracks are visible for those wanting to peer upside down at them.
The top of the boxes was then raised in height with a further strip of plastic strip. then a pair of side plates, cut to shape added.
I then added the wiper arm base plates, made up the wiper blades from a plastic strip, added the arm, slightly bent at the top to meet the mounting plate and bonded in situ to the wiper blade.
Once this had dried, i added the angled front cover plate to complete.
I am, as im typing,I'm making up the washer pipework and jets, once complete, I will post that too.
(http://s13.postimage.org/rlrxa4pkj/DSC02758.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rlrxa4pkj/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/yhz4py2yl/DSC02759.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yhz4py2yl/)
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(http://s17.postimage.org/69yo11qqj/DSC02764.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/69yo11qqj/)
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Ive made up the front screen washer pipework. I used some 0.8mm brass rod, as its easy to bend to shape, plus adding the jet pieces is a simple solder joint.
(http://s16.postimage.org/a6ih3tos1/DSC02774.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a6ih3tos1/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/dag9y4za5/DSC02775.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dag9y4za5/)
Next task was to make up the main aerial support legs. I wanted to make it so I can remove the aerials themselves, simply to ease transport of the boat, as they do stand high above the main body and too easily caught on things.
I first drilled out the centre of the aerial bases, to accept a small angles piece of brass rod. This was bent so its upper end, slides inside the hollow plastic rod used for the lower section of the aerials.
the cross pieces of the supports are again plastic rod, but i used a small piece of brass tube , as the support sleeve for the aerial and wrapped a piece of brass rod around the outside and soldered to it for strength. Leaving a couple of "legs" of brass rod, to slide inside the hollow support legs
(http://s17.postimage.org/4l9u4zs8r/DSC02769.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4l9u4zs8r/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/g5xq9bx3p/DSC02771.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g5xq9bx3p/)
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I have finally recieved delivery of the searchlights and spotlamps for the boat, so I have installed the stern lamp to the mast assembly, which now allows me to close off the wiring box, behind the radar mount.
(http://s16.postimage.org/8mcom275t/DSC02777.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8mcom275t/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/yj6cyoatd/DSC02778.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yj6cyoatd/)
I have also constructed the emergency vhf aerial mount, which sits inbetween the engine covers. I made the base from a plasticard "sandwich" to get the right thickness for the base and once the glue had dried, I angled the end faces.
The aerial is a couple of pieces of hollow plastruct tube, one slid inside the other and the end capped with a piece of plasticard and trimmed to shape.
(http://s18.postimage.org/lel6b9ivp/DSC02780.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lel6b9ivp/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/khk7vci4r/DSC02781.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/khk7vci4r/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/am8g4zs53/DSC02784.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/am8g4zs53/)
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Ive fitted the two forward spotlamps today. i firstly added some heatshrink tubing over the cables, to replicate the black covering and applied a little heat to shrink it down to size. I then slid a small piece of plastic tube over the cable and added a smaller "ring" to make the connector fitting, which fits on to the roof,
(http://s9.postimage.org/me4wp5lnf/DSC02785.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/me4wp5lnf/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/6p76ludv7/DSC02786.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6p76ludv7/)
Ive also added similar cable fittings to the searchlights, as I have decided to run this version with the searchlights on their mountings and ready for use, not stowed away, that way, making the boat more illuminated for evening/dusk sailing.
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Following on from my completion of the radar mast assembly wiring, I decided to "do" something with the cables, where they are visible at the mast hinge joints.
So I pulled the cables back up the trunking pipes as far as the first [upper] joint, then slid a piece of black heatshrink tubing along the cables, then after heating the tubing, carefylly held the tubing in a curve, untill it cooled sufficiently to hold its shape. I then ran the cables down to the next "joint" and did the same, and so on untill the cables run through the lower cable connector and in to the underfloor space.
if you then added a few winds of black thread, you could replicate the ribs in the plastic cable trunking if any of you so wished. ive done this in the past, but m fingers are not yet quite agile enough to complete on this particular model build, my recent surgery is still limiting my abilities to a degree.
(http://s9.postimage.org/77uogbiej/DSC02787.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/77uogbiej/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/mr8ud0s6r/DSC02793c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mr8ud0s6r/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/4e892ghpv/DSC02792c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4e892ghpv/)
As you can also see from the photo's I have also added the safety rails and the padding block to the upper rail. I still have the mast locking clips to add to the centre bar once the glue has fully bonded on the rails.
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a little more detail work on the main mast assembly today. ive now made up the retaining brackets, which have also been drilled ready to slip the locking pins through later. The mast "assister" rams were made from some small hollow tub and plastic rod, the ends of the tub cut to accept a piece of strip, to make the upper mounting bracket.
(http://s14.postimage.org/8i7h0jeml/DSC02794c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8i7h0jeml/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/5e8r3h683/DSC02795c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5e8r3h683/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/sp0a8jie9/DSC02801.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sp0a8jie9/)
I am now starting to add more details to the flying bridge. I have finally sorted a ships wheel and converted it to 4 spokes instead of the 5 suplied, had great difficulty is sourcing a 4 spoke wheel of scale diameter.
the coxwain has now been called in to service, so I can ensure he is capable of holding the wheel and throttles !
(http://s15.postimage.org/saayyesif/DSC02796c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/saayyesif/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/tfeq26n6z/DSC02797.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tfeq26n6z/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/tqx1u7u3r/DSC02799.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tqx1u7u3r/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/go60oot9j/DSC02800.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/go60oot9j/)
I have now inserted the flying bridge screen glazing panels and added the remaining framework. Just waiting for the glue to dry before finishing off the painting of the frame.
Now to sort the control panel out !
(http://s16.postimage.org/cm1ldyl0h/DSC02803.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cm1ldyl0h/)
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A really interesting, informative and detailed log Greg, looks a mighty fine model. What was the sound unit that you used from Dave, was it his 'noisy thing'? impressive, and the blue lense cover on the mast - is that one of the Maplin's led covers you mentioned?
Appreciate the work that's gone into the mast O0.
Hope the arm fully recovers ok, regards, Tony. :-))
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Thanks for the comments. YES, it is the 2all singing/all dancing" sound system from Action. I was a bit wary of the price,but after hearing it for myself, i would be reluctant to use any other system now.
the base unit comes ready installed with "MAN diesel sound". the engines start up [individually] then tickover, then as you move the throttle, they rev up accordingly with a nice deep hum. If you then let the boat idel in the water for about 2 - 3 mins, the engines "shut down", but retstart as you again move the throttle stick.
I am desperately trying to source some "cat 3408" sounds, as Action only have a unit in runing mode only, so soon as I can , I will upload the cat engine sound to the module.
Yes, the light lenses are the maplin ones I mentioned. Unfortunately they done do a blue lens, so I painted the inside of a clear lens with some tamiya "clear blue - x23" to colour tint the lens.
I then found by painting the outside top of all the lenses with some silver paint [to act as a reflector], then paint over the top, black, it reflects the wasted light back and through the lens, sideways, giving a better effect.
(http://s13.postimage.org/6k1hvm18z/100_4393cc.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6k1hvm18z/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/ycofq5rdp/DSC02731c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ycofq5rdp/)
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Thanks Greg, what are the 3408 cat sounds? scuse my ignorance - thought Action's unit did most things you could wish for, not that I understand these programmable and technical thingies mind you, complete dummy with electronics and things associated I'm afraid :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
Regards, Tony.
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The Action sound module carries three seperate "sound clips" for the engine "sound"
1/ Startup
2/running
3/ shutdown
So for example the basic setup supplied comes with these 3 items pre programmed in to one package, so the engine starts up, runs on tickover, rev's up with throttle stick and shuts down/off if the throttle is left for over 2 mins.
the "cat sound" is for a caterpillar engine, but currently Action only have a "wav sample" for a cat engine running only, with no startup/shutdown.
Its a "anorak thing", for those people who "know diesels", as there is such a difference between diesel engines, a lot of people can tell you what they are simply by listening to them, without seeing it. Gardner, Rolls Royce, Perkins, Cummins,Meadows,Caterpillar, Volvo, Scania, Detroit, to name but a few ALL have their own individual sound/tone.
RNLI currently use several engine manufacturers, including Caterpillar, Volvo and Scania, for example the Talus tractor uses a Scania diesel, the Mersey class uses twin Cat's [thats why id prefer to source the sound files]. Other forum members on here know far more than myuself on the engine types and fitments, but no doubts they have their own favorite diesel, that makes the hairs on the back of their neck stand up! [ha ha].
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Thanks Greg for a full and informative answer, cheers, Tony :-))
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"Lighting test" !
I have swaped the 6v wheatgrain bulbs out of the lamps [as supplied] as retrofitted with led's, firstly to lower power consumption and secondy, for a better visual effect at dusk sailing, or on "grey days".
the lamps are wired up as follows.
1/ deck lights
2/ forward cabin lamps
3/ flying bridge search lights.
4/ navigation lights
5/ stern spotlamp
6/ flashing blue beacon.
All will be wired up and available, via switches, so can run with any combination or ALL.
(http://s14.postimage.org/cqzqw337h/DSC02804c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cqzqw337h/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/uxrxadw6h/DSC02805.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uxrxadw6h/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/orudoapet/DSC02806.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/orudoapet/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/brtpcdptf/DSC02808.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/brtpcdptf/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/fyluqa67r/DSC02809.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fyluqa67r/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/y0d9cp6vv/DSC02807.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y0d9cp6vv/)
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Time to actually sort the upper cabin wiring out now, get rid of the birds nest thats accumulating and make it easier to remove/refit the upper cabin too.
Firstly, need to count ALL the cables that are necessary for all the lamps.
ok so we can make sure all but one of the negative leads link together, so that halves the number total in one easy sweep. Its easier to solder the earth leads together up in the upper cabin, that do so inside the hull, thats just a waste of cable.
So now we have a nice total of the wires, so to source a suitable connector. It will have to take a bit of handling, be easy to open and access if a cable breaks, have solder terminals [not screw], be of reasonable price in so much as you dont have to go out and buy a pack of 10.
I have used a 9 pin chassis connector, used in computing cables, they have a metal outer case, so will take a few knocks and the odd clout. it has soler terminals, can be screwed down to the deck and the other half of the connector comes with a clip together outer shroud to protect the wires from harm. readily available from Maplins and sold singly.
The only wires that do run seperate earth system is for the radar unit, as this only uses 3v, as all the rest is running 12v, so preferred to run seperately. The radar unit also has its own battery pack [see pic] this I mounted on the top of the electrical cover, purely for ease of replacement of the batteries, without having to haul the lot off, purely for a couple of "AA's". these test batteries will be replaced with some rechargeable one for longer use.
The main cable run from the stern of the upper cabin was routed from the main mast area, as this is where the majority of the cables drop down anyway, a few "joined the pack" as the harness runs past the rear cabin wall, so the searchlights and forward spot lamp wires drop donw here, rather than route down the front screen pillars. I ahve also left a couple of spare wires up there, as these will supply power to the flying bridge warning lamps and also for the roof instrument panel, which runs the full width of the interior cabin, [inside] above the internal steering position.
Its much easier to run all the wires in now and then wrap the cables in "spiral wrap", than try and add ones later.
(http://s8.postimage.org/jvfy9cn5d/DSC02814c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jvfy9cn5d/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/q22axl3jf/DSC02815.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q22axl3jf/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/aeqx6tpfn/DSC02816c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/aeqx6tpfn/)
The switches have also now been added to control some of the wiring that has been installed. The "pencil mark" is to denote the outer access line of the access hatch, so i dont put a switch where I cant get at !
(http://s14.postimage.org/49wnl93pp/PICT0059.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/49wnl93pp/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/pyd2v2nfv/PICT0112.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pyd2v2nfv/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/3uo50hber/PICT0110.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3uo50hber/)
These last three pics show the flying bridge controls and the inner "roof panel" I am yet to construct and then "wire up".
Yes, the forward inner sterering position, radio panel and navigation units will have lights/power too, but once i get to the insides again, its all in the pipe line yet.
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http://youtu.be/6KVI2z1n8JI
Took the Mersey out this afternoon for another test sailing, as still trying a bit of adjustment with main battery positions, seeing whats best to get the balance right. Admittidly its still yet to change as more fittings go on, especially all the railings etc, but always best to keep a check on things.
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Looks a treat Greg :-)) O0
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thanks for your comment. To be honest, I've tried several times now, to run the boat with the sound system switched off, but it ust dont "sound" right, so quickly run it back to shore, lift the cover and switch the motors back on rapido !
the twin lipo pack system for motor power works just rigth and with the 50mm props on, it has a fair turn of speed, and "looks" to be about right [scake -ish] speed, being a "non planing" boat hull, I dotn wish to push it too far. the stern trim tabs are certanly doing their stuff and keeping the stern at the right depth ok, so under higher throttle openings, it does not drop the stern down too low in the water.
the trim tabs were set at "horizontal" to the keel line and think it seems about right for this setup. I was reluctant to try going negative with it, could not see the point, other than perhaps cause more battery drain.
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I have made up the cabin roof handrails tonight. making entirely out of plastic [rod, tube and sheet]. the main rails were made from 4mm solid plastic rod, bent at both ends, and then a further 3 [each side] support posts cut and the tops hollowed out with a round file, to make sure they fit around the main rail.
The base plates are discs of plastic, punch cut from some styrene sheet, with the centres also punch cut out ,to allow the main rod to pass through them and the cabin roof, to give better strength to the join.
I also added a small slice of hollow plastic rod, which was slid right down against the base plate flange, to replicate the tube to roof fitting.
(http://s14.postimage.org/lime13ha5/DSC02854.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lime13ha5/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/slx0oygdh/DSC02855.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/slx0oygdh/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/5xiumfu0n/DSC02856.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5xiumfu0n/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/m1333zyhn/DSC02857.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m1333zyhn/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/qk7k7rdfb/DSC02858.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qk7k7rdfb/)
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I was scanning throught the photo's I have of a mersey Lifeboat and came across a couple of the "gobeye", mounted on the stern. Quite an intricate little beast with curves and angles and pivots.
So After taking a few measuremants off the plans and by careful study of the pictures, this is "pt1" of 2 on its construction.
I firstly drew the outline on to some paper [ I chose yellow, as easier to see against white plasticard]. I added the radii with a compass and joined them all up. Once checked, I cut the template out for the main upright piece. This was transferred to some 2mm plasticard and the centres marked for the radii. These were then scored through with a compass cutter, making sure to draw the cutter around the shape on both sides, once the centre pin has made a "detent" on the reverse of the card. [it saves trying to mark the same point with a pencil on both sides AND being slightly out]!
I then cut out the inner blank and then cut off the excess card from its base. If you try and do this with the bottom line at the base of the styrene, you could easily snap the plastic whilst removing the inner scrap piece, so leave this on untill after the blanks is removed.
I then made up the base plate and bonded the two pieces together with plastic weld, checking the squareness as it dried.
(http://s10.postimage.org/ierzkh2yt/DSC02868.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ierzkh2yt/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/j37hwfl25/DSC02869.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j37hwfl25/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ql8q5gzut/DSC02870.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ql8q5gzut/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/4yrtvet17/DSC02871.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4yrtvet17/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/qnqrmt7pv/DSC02872.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qnqrmt7pv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/x5pr0eyy9/DSC02873.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/x5pr0eyy9/)
This was left to dry overnight before continuing..............
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Now that the basic "frame" has fully set, I can firstly add the upper "thicker" sections, where the vertical pins go through, using plasticweld again for quickness and strength of bond. Once allowed to dry for a few minutes, I cut some thinner plasticard out to the correct width and gently ran then under a pencil to start a gently cure in them. then held inside the gobeye to get correct length before cutting to size. Then fixed in place with plastic weld. using a smaller piece i cut out of the rope access slot in the top piece
I made the "overclip" piece, drilling the side plates so I can pass a piece of thin plastic rod through to replicate the swivel pins. the inner "rope bar" was made from some solid plastic rod [4mm] the cross brace having its cut ends filed with a round file to make a snug fit against the two vetical pieces, again plasticweld being used for a deeper bond between them.
The item was again set aside to allow to dry fully, prior to making the clip pins and chain links.
(http://s13.postimage.org/9o8zodher/DSC02874.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9o8zodher/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/t1p5g82nr/DSC02875.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t1p5g82nr/)
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(http://s16.postimage.org/d53p5cxhd/DSC02877.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d53p5cxhd/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/m3ycw4rr5/DSC02878.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m3ycw4rr5/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/kk0djq2cj/DSC02879.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kk0djq2cj/)
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Sorry, but this "minor item" has widened in to a 3 piece build update. I have now drilled the posts and upper pin to make way for the clevis pins. A little bit of imagination and careful bending of some brass wire has made some "near enough" clips to put in to their respective places. I just have to source some suitable fine chain to link them up, the small piece i have fitted [in pic] is a bit over scale so is only for the photo only so to speak.
The gobeye will now get another 2 coats of paint to finish it off and whilst this is drying I will construct the "shaped" deck base for it to sit on.
(http://s17.postimage.org/nm6ew3ngr/DSC02880.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nm6ew3ngr/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/9h0luaeff/DSC02881c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9h0luaeff/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/y6wf8s8s7/DSC02882.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y6wf8s8s7/)
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Just doing some tidying up on the forward engine cover hatches, so made up the retaining clips and holders for the hooks. oh and also made up the hooks too. I made these from hollow plastic tube and the heads from some plasticard, cutting a slot in the head of the tube to insert the tool head and bond well in. Final shaping of the tool heads took place once the glue had fully dried.
(http://s17.postimage.org/b52gtnovf/DSC02859c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b52gtnovf/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/d1zz2aran/DSC02860c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d1zz2aran/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/8e9uar0rl/DSC02861c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8e9uar0rl/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/4b5g2a6wz/DSC02862c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4b5g2a6wz/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/nua1bn5oj/DSC02863.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nua1bn5oj/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/ktfwwsjor/DSC02864.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ktfwwsjor/)
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I have now added the clevis pin chains and made up the actual "base" plate, which is curved to fit to the deck, but keep its upper face flat to accept the gobeye mounting plate.
The mounting plate will be bonded to the deck, but the gobeye will be left off untill the deck is painted its correct deck colour, saves a load of masking off.
(http://s15.postimage.org/v92o6pyuf/DSC02918.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/v92o6pyuf/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/4tujsje85/DSC02919.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4tujsje85/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/5hev6gbgf/DSC02920.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5hev6gbgf/)
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Been busy printing off another batch of photographs tonight, ready for the next few detailling sessions.
I have made up one of the flying bridge handrails however and attached to its location. I have managed to scale down a photo of the flying bridge engine control panel and have loosely put in place. I will fit this behind a clear perspex panel and seal down, then this will alow me provision to fit some fibre optics from underneath
(http://s10.postimage.org/w4sjgph2d/DSC02921.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w4sjgph2d/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/69i6b882d/DSC02922.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/69i6b882d/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/ura9z4amt/DSC02923c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ura9z4amt/)
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Whilst waiting for the glue to dry on another part of the build, Ive had a go at making the cable hawse to replicate those that drop off the bow for shore towing.
I was wandering round a local DIY store and noticed their selection of galvanised wire cable, which got me to thinking............... So rather than just use some thick thread and paint it to simulate a wire rope, why not use the same thing? the cable is 2mm in diameter, so pretty flexible for this purpose and not too heavy also.
One major thing, the store did not have any cable eyes to fit inside the wire small enough !
Ok, time to rethink, till I spied my selection of plastic strip. I had some 7mm wide x 3mm think, so thick enough to file a decent groove in to, to allow the wire to gain purchase and fairly robust enough to drill the centre out too.
I first made a series of drill holes of differing diameters to make the cutting out easier. then carefully cut out the larger hole by "joining the dots". I then cut the strip piece to length before carefully rough cutting the larger round end with a sharp knife and finishing off with a file to get a smooth curve.
I then cut the angles/tapered sides down to a narrow point.
Picking up a small round file, it was easy work to gently cut the groove in to the plastic to allow the cable to sit inside it.
The end of the cable was gently bent in to rough shape with some pliers and held against the part. I then used some black thread to bind the cable together, adding a few drops of superglue to hold it. Once dry I slid over a piece of heatshrink tubing and gently heated it with the tip of a soldering iron, so as not to overheat the pl;astic insert and deform it, so no use of a gently open flame here, unlike when covering electrical wire joins.
Once painted, i think it will be ok and look the part. ive not cut the cable to length yet, as I am yet to make the retaining clamp for the deck, so have made a similar "end" on the other end of the cable, ready to attach to the forward keel hole, ready to pass through the roller on the bow deck.
(http://s13.postimage.org/ats84asib/DSC02924.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ats84asib/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/qak136i9n/DSC02926c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qak136i9n/)
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I have been watching this thread for some time and i just wanted to say that your craftsmanship is second to none, superb build so far...great boat.
Keep the pics and posts coming...
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Many thanks for your comments, they are appreciated. I am no expert by any means. I dont have ultra deep pockets to afford the best or the most expensive, but I survive and "make do". Yes it may be great to work in Brass, but its the cost and expense these days, its no longer a cheap commodity to work with, even I keep all the offcuts for "weighing in", afterall it all mounts up, you would be surprised.
This is only my Thrid "scratch build", but enjoying it greatly. Its a "challenge" and I like a good challenge to keep me focussed.
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There is no reason to spend hard earned money when you can make a part that well in the first place. The hobby is really about the sheer pleasure of beating the odds & getting to where you wanted to be when you started. You are getting close to being finished now Greg & it is looking like you have built yourself a very nice boat. How is your arm doing these days, just asking,hope it is O/K now. Mick B.
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Hi Mick, many thanks for your response too, it is appreciated. the nerves in my arm & hand will take a long time to heal and "hopefully" [everything crossed] repair. nerves are very delicate things, bit like a remote servo link rod, its ok when first installed, but a "xxxxx" to replace once the thing has been built round!
Currently, I have nerve sensation in my fingers for a few hours a day, after that, they are just numb and as if the hand is "someone elses" [ha ha], but the time I have nerve sensation for is getting longer , so heres hoping.
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Appologies for no update yet, but unfortunately one of my other scale boats {sun tug} took a hit broadsides off a brushless racing boat at our clubs sailing pool. On inspecting the hull, ive found a hairline crack in the glass fibre, so will need to strip the internals out and do a full inspection, once i really feel like doing so. Its a real hurt when you spend over 15 months building a boat for someone who has taken 2 weeks to make a boat, destroy yours in less than a seconds lack of thought.
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Right, back on track again now. I'm leaving the repair on my Sun Tug on one side for now, untill I "feel" ready to start taking it apart, always not a very nice task to do, once you have spent so long building something.
I have now managed to do some work on the foredeck of the Mersey, Starting with the fore tow post.
I started the ball rolling with a Mac's models resin cast jobby, BUT the base plate was too big to fir the mersey, so rather than just cut it smaller and risk it cracking, I cut the whole thing off and just used the post. I then made up a correct sized plate for the deck. I then drilled both the deck and plate togewther to ensure the hole was in the correct place.
After checking the post heinght on the RNLI drawings, there is a nice juicy excess of post on the resin one, to allow it to sink below deck. So for added strength i cross drilled the resin post, immediately below the deck plate I had made and passed a plastic rod through the hole [brass rod would also suffice here too]. This was bonded in with superglue.
I then cut a couple of slots in the deck [fore & aft] to allow for the ends of the cross bar on the underside of the tow post, so this sits in to the deck too, giving more area to glue bond. the post was then lowered in to place with a generous coat of epoxy, but leaving the plastic base dry, as i will use plasticweld to bond this to the plastic "topped" deck for a stronger bond.
(http://s18.postimage.org/mw6kzf8lh/DSC02939c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mw6kzf8lh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/lg498rker/DSC02947.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lg498rker/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/udoz64cur/DSC02949c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/udoz64cur/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/sbu08d25t/DSC02950c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sbu08d25t/)
* You will also notice from the images, I have now added pencil lines in for the angled cable runs from the bow strops, to make sure they "pass/miss" the tow post and also clear of the anchor mounts on the other side of the deck.
The foredeck slot has also been routed out and some filler added, to smooth out the guide for the cables to run down the bow guide slot.
(http://s9.postimage.org/5m6oghxiz/DSC02945.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5m6oghxiz/)
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Time again for another minor "challenge", the "Stemhead Roller" assembly. I wanted this to be able to hinge, as the original, so the tow strops can be clearly seen running underneath it, plus it makes it easier to put the cables in later, now that I have managed to perfect the manufacture of the inner cable eyes for the strop ends [see earlier post].
I first cut some simple pieces of flat plasticard, then after gently applying some heat, sufficient to "soften" the plastic, I then "shaped" the plasticard around the forward/bow rubber fender to get a profile that replicates the ovalness. this was set aside to cool, whilst I then cut the flat deck pieces. I then plasticwelded the two pieces together and once dry, added some plasto filler to the join line, for careful sanding off later once fully dry. the roller assembly starts off with a simple square flat base plate, with an inverted "U" shape on the top [with a flared outer end towards the bows.]. The U shape was easy enough to shape, again using heat on some plasticard strip, this was cut to correct height and bonded to its base.
The hinges are pieces of hollow plastic tube, capable of allowing passage of a plastic "pin" through later.
The roller itself I made from a piece of wooden dowel rod, not having any plastic rod of suitable diameter, having used several "knitting needles" on an earlier project, I had none left !
But again, by slowly rotating the dowel, a round file was easy enough to use to add the shaped cable though.
I small drill was run through the centre point of the dowel, once cut to size, to allow a pivot rod to go through it and the roller frame.
I then heat shaped a front/bow piece to add on the the roller assembly, to guide the cable hawse, over the split gap in the lower sections. This piece was cut so as to run inside the roller, so the join did not show.
The 2 earlier made fender covers were added to the deck and the roller assembly, placed in position, so the deck halves of the pivot pieces could be bonded in place, by using plasticweld, for both ease and quickness of bond.
I have just got to make the rounded face for the roller assembly now, Ive made a wooden former, from which I will make it from.
(http://s17.postimage.org/ybzl0jia3/DSC02938c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ybzl0jia3/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/hj06u07qv/DSC02945.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hj06u07qv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/8ogszpem9/DSC02951c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8ogszpem9/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/9m0n5kuk7/DSC02955c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9m0n5kuk7/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/ko2f18wtf/DSC02958c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ko2f18wtf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/weyq1lj59/DSC02959c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/weyq1lj59/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/gw1a4haul/DSC02961c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gw1a4haul/)
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I have now finally made up the two bow tow cables. I have previously shown you a picture of "one end" of the cable hawse, now heres the build.
The hawse ends were formed from plastic strip, 3mm thick x 6mm tall. the galvanised wire is 2mm, purchased from a local DIY store and only 98p /mtr too!
I then drilled the inner hole with some pilot holes to start with, carefully "joining the dots" with a sharp blade, the cut the majority of the rough stuff out, finishing off with a small rat tail file.
I then used a knife to cut the outer profile away, finishing off with a file to round off the profile.
using the rat tail file, its simplicity itself to then "file around the edge" making the inset to allow th wire cable to sit snugly in.
I then bend the wire around the hawse end, holding toghtly and then winding some black thread around the two wires to secure. Once in plase, the thread was given a few drops of superglue to fix in place.
Once the glue was dry, I slid a small piece of heat shrink tube over the join and moulded to shape.
WORD OF WARNING.
BEFORE you shape the other end of the wire around the hawse end. DON'T forget to slide the heatshrink tubing on the wire ! [ha ha] Sliding a piece that will fit over the hase end later wont shrink down tight enough . I LEARN'T !
(http://s13.postimage.org/5m4iq8u2b/DSC02971c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5m4iq8u2b/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/djngbjfwn/DSC02972c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/djngbjfwn/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/89ihk8vnr/DSC02973c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/89ihk8vnr/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/lry5s6i5h/DSC02976c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lry5s6i5h/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/dvkzied6b/DSC02979c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dvkzied6b/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/g8j64bj9t/DSC02978c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/g8j64bj9t/)
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Now I have the two bow cable strops, i have made uo a "prototype" lock handle on the deck for them. I say prototype, becase I have not yet decided if this version is going to be robust enough to leave on,or make a sturdier frame out of brass strip. I know and appreciate I will not be dropping the cables down, ready for beach retrieval every time I launch the boat myself, but its an item that might as be as authentic as possible, as it takes so little to produce.
Please axcuse the overly long plastic rod thats run through the pivot in the pictures, its only temporary, till testing is complete.
(http://s15.postimage.org/wh4tj7y3b/DSC02980c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wh4tj7y3b/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/5cu1ab697/DSC02981c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5cu1ab697/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/sdqtnfl1f/DSC02982c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sdqtnfl1f/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/pjehii451/DSC02983.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pjehii451/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/t9lk8kisn/DSC02985c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t9lk8kisn/)
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Hi Greg,
Your build is a credit to you.
Have just been going through it again, can I ask ,what did you use to make your mast nav and blue lights, or are they comercial items, if so where from?
Thanks
Gerard
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The Nav light lenses are commercially available from Maplins, they are the 5mm versions.
they can supply, red, green, amber or clear.
for the blue version, I simply used a clear one and painted the inside of it with some "clear blue" paint.
If you paint the top [outside] of the lens silver, allow to dry fully, then paint over with black, it acts as a reflector, and throws more light through the sides of the lens, giving a better light output.
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The Paint I used to colour the blue lens is: TAMIYA X-23 "Clear Blue".
Its an acrylic paint, so brushes wash out in water too.
Be sure to give it 2 good coats, to make sure the colour coat is nice and even.
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Decided to "upgrade" the bow tow cable lever sooner than originally planned. Well I fancied a bit of a challenge plus having half a day off work helps too!
I decided to make the lever arm side plates from brass strip, being a bit more hard wearing and all that, plus soldering the bits together give a bit more strength in it too.
the side plates were easy enough to cut to shape and add the bends where appropriate, Once i had made 2, I then drilled the holes for the pivot in both and the grab hook in one of them. I also used a piece of brass tube to make the top handle.
(http://s14.postimage.org/dyo43fb6l/DSC02989c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dyo43fb6l/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/9l1my096t/DSC02990c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9l1my096t/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/no8p471pj/DSC02992c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/no8p471pj/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/p00o14mlt/DSC02994c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p00o14mlt/)
If you look at the grab hook, you will notice its position as it slightly "angles to one side". this does have a point !
(http://s13.postimage.org/hj8girbrn/DSC02996c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hj8girbrn/)
Now if you see where the hook arm now "sits", it "self locks" under the pivot arm support i made up, so the actual "locking pin" that is put through on the full size [and will be on this] its only "cosmetic" on the scale version, as this "cam lock" mechanism works fine for me,as it will prevent the cables from coming loose, even if the lockig pin vibrates out or someones "light fingers" removes it, not knowing what they are doing.
(http://s14.postimage.org/4x9kptd99/DSC02998c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4x9kptd99/)
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I have now made up the Slip bracket base plates, but did not want to have to make the fender protectors as a seperate item, so have made them as a "one piece item". Firstly after taking the measurements off the drawings, I made up a couple of paper templates, to "try against" the hull/deck. it looked like it would work, so traced around the templates on some plasticard.
I used a piece of wooden dowel to enable me to "curve" the plastic sheet for its shape around the fender. Once shaped, I trimmed the excess plastic off to suit. I painted the insides of the shields silver first before fitting to the deck.
(http://s16.postimage.org/zcy17qav5/DSC03000c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zcy17qav5/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/xcmp1wcpj/DSC03001c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xcmp1wcpj/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/pncft4xh3/DSC03002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pncft4xh3/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6h21lqn41/DSC03003c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6h21lqn41/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/5u0c0fk3b/DSC03004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5u0c0fk3b/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/qhyzf65br/DSC03005c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qhyzf65br/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/4e3iq9j6r/DSC03006c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4e3iq9j6r/)
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Time for the actual slip brackets themselves. I was just going to make up some plasticard ones, purely for show, but as I was making them, it was just as easy to actually make them work!
Firstly, to save some time in shaping the slip hooks, i decided to make some sandwiches up of thinner plastic sheet, so by cutting the rough basic outline on 3 pieces, then bonding together with plasticweld, I think saved me time trying to carefully cut through some 5 or 6mm plastic black.
Whilst these were drying, inside some "clamps" to make sure they bonded fully and stayed flat, I made up the basic shapes of the brackets, drilling the holes in the side plates prior to bonding them to the base plate.
I then attacked the hook bars and shaped them by using a combination of knife, sander and file to smooth out the shape/profile.
The other operating part was made up from flat strip, apart from a piece of half cut plastic rod to make the hammer strike. This I did attack a little with my knife, to flatten in places, to make it look likes its actually been hit a few times, rather than pristine. this will show up better once painted.
Last job was to assemble it all together in a "dry fit" stage [without glue] to make sure the rear lever arm, cleared the pivoting hook arm. mine didnt first time, so careful bit of cutting with a sharp blade and was soon working fine.
I then drilled a set of holes around the base plate, as through which i will insert some plastic rod to replicate the mounting bolts, but these will be drilled through the deck to act as further strenghtening the bond between both components.
(http://s18.postimage.org/5wwalm5d1/DSC03007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5wwalm5d1/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/dfn8zlwnb/DSC03008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dfn8zlwnb/)
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(http://s15.postimage.org/l5ymihocn/DSC03021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/l5ymihocn/)
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Ihave not completed putting all 4 of the slip brackets together. After designing the first one and making sure it all "worked", I made up some templates off this one and then cut sufficient duplicate parts to make the other 3. I have put the templates in a plastic bag and will keep for future use, just in case of accident I suppose.
I just had to drill the base plates for the mounting bolts and give them a coat of paint before installation.
(http://s16.postimage.org/xzrzn12up/DSC03023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xzrzn12up/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/a59ry60ap/DSC03024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a59ry60ap/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/6wk5tulr1/DSC03025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6wk5tulr1/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/hlqjnnr0z/DSC03026c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hlqjnnr0z/)
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(http://s14.postimage.org/sbqvrwgl9/DSC03040.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sbqvrwgl9/)
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(http://s13.postimage.org/w5iwre6lv/DSC03042c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w5iwre6lv/)
I have now managed to attach the slip brackets to the deck plates, bonding down initially with plasticweld to get a decent bond. in fact they are so sturdy I ahve tried using these hooks as "ties" whilst on my buggy trailer to get the boat to and from the sailing pool and they hold her down a treat, no problem. Well it saves having to delicately place a web strap rigth over the complete boat and risk damaging the handrails or hatches for example.
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I am now in the process of completing the toe board fitting, in preparation for making the handrails. I have decided against using the white metal ones originally supplied by Metcalf, as every time I touch the white metal ones, they break in half! So rather than risk using them and having to replaces them after the slightest of knocks, Im going to make some brass versions.
Sorry but no picture images tonight, due to communication errors to the site.
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Whilst waiting for the toe boards glue to fully bond, Ive made up the pair of anchors to site on the forward deck. I first cut out a paper template and folded it to make sure it "made up" correctly before then cutting out of plasticard. The upper are of the anchore was built up of sections of thicker plastic strip.
(http://s7.postimage.org/ukwo6ximv/DSC03033.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ukwo6ximv/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/llr9gq1k5/DSC03028c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/llr9gq1k5/)
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(http://s7.postimage.org/3zyqp45nb/DSC03032c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3zyqp45nb/)
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Now that the two anchors are dry, it is time to make the mounting plates and brackets. The base plates were cut from some chequerplate embossed plasticard sheet and then the anchor stowage "wedges" made from plain smooth plasticard sheet. I have added a small piece of brass wore, bent to replicate the rope tie handle, so along with the drill hole in the anchor arm, I can secure the anchors to the base plates easily and without bonding them down fully.
(http://s10.postimage.org/k4pgz739h/DSC03033.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k4pgz739h/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/5n25bqiq5/DSC03034.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5n25bqiq5/)
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(http://s14.postimage.org/9avon0v2l/DSC03038.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9avon0v2l/)
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I have now started work on the stanchions with some committment, as I may be out of action again for a few days. I am having to have further surgery on my left hand to rectify/repair a damaged tendon, causing "trigger thumb". Its a reasonable minor "op", but is going to mean my left hands out of serious action for a few days, but I will see what i can still cope with doing, once ive had the operation so to speak.
So heres fingers crossed !
As I have said previously, the Metcalf white metal stanchions I purchased with the hull are way too brittle to fit, seems more pewter than lead in the mix and they take very little to snap in half.
So 3.2mm hollow brass tube is the way i'm going, these were soldered to some triangular base plates and the stanchion supports, mounted to some flat rectangular plates, so i can bolt them to the tow boards easily. After reading the Model boats magazine build, I followed some advice there and purchased some acrylic plastic beads to make the "balls" on the stanchions, they only needed a drill running through them to get to correct internal size. A dab of superglue and fixed in place. I also then found it much easier to cross drill these "balls" for the grab wires too. The eyelets were simply bent and soldered in place from some brass wire. I just have some cleaning up to do on this lot, as Ive managed to make up one "side set", but thouhg I should be able to cope with this job later this week.
bit of physiotherapy !!
(http://s15.postimage.org/729lp96qv/DSC03071.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/729lp96qv/)
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(http://s16.postimage.org/gvb8evlgx/DSC03102c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gvb8evlgx/)
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Following on from the operation on my left hand, im stuck on "light duties" for a while,or untill the stitches are removed in 2 weeks time, so kindly appreciate, work on the Mersey will be a little laboured, but I will try my best to plod on, doing what I can, untill back to 99.9% fit again and able to use both hands fully.
So, for the first bit of physiotherapy, to try and remove the screw lid top, off a bottle of tamiya paint! Well after several "yelps" of pain, I decided to use a pair of adjustable jaw pliers and jam them between forearm and thigh, being careful not to loosen the lid too much and paint the leg of my jeans on one swimming lesson.
I had previously made up the flying bridge cushion panels a few weeks back, but the front faces needed painting, so an oppertune time to do now. so they were duly painted and affixed once the paint was dry, the back of the centre panel will be cleaned up once the glue has set.
(http://s18.postimage.org/z9pwd8tdh/DSC03110.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z9pwd8tdh/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/yss58uu3f/DSC03111.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/yss58uu3f/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ie6kwc2ox/DSC03112.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ie6kwc2ox/)
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After a few days of gentle coaxing, I am partially able to re use my left hand again, albeit, minus "thumb assistance" currently [ha ha], so my left hand is more use as a clamp than anything else yet !
I have managed to make up the fixing brackets for the jackstay cables. making from plastic strip, drilling holes to suit and a little filing seems to resemble the item concerned ok. I have made the actual plates that will carry the cable, long enough to pass through the cabin side wall, so with the aid of a drilled hole and a "cross peg", helps secure it in place, plus makes a better surface area for the stabilit express to bond to.
The backing "diamond shape" plates were again cut from thinner styrene sheet, a slot cut inside to allow the port to slip through it, plus acts as a trim cover for the slot in the panel sidewall.
I will leave off fitting the cable standoff point, untill all the main posts glue has set fully and I can attach the cable, so I can ensure the standoff post is in the correct place and position to keep the cable clear of the panels.
(http://s11.postimage.org/ihbgbk27j/DSC03116.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ihbgbk27j/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/82j3vmqwx/DSC03124.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/82j3vmqwx/)
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(http://s7.postimage.org/axgau2uev/DSC03132c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/axgau2uev/)
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I have now made up the safety cables for either side of the cabin. the end tips [with hooks] are simply shaped brass rod, with a piece of plastic tube slid over to replicate the tension adjuster [still needs a bit of end shaping yet] and the cable itself is some silicone tubing, which when cut slightly shot, tensions up just nice, once "hooked" on at both ends.
the cable spacer was made from 2 side plates of plasticard, with a centre "spacer bit" from some thicker plastic rod. Once the spacer glue had dried, i drilled the centre piece to accept a short length of brass rod, and drilled the side of the bodywork in the appropriate place, ao the brass rod passes through and can be bonded in, on the inside of the hull.
(http://s13.postimage.org/b65lvqvn7/DSC03133.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b65lvqvn7/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/ei2rck1lb/DSC03134.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ei2rck1lb/)
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Finally getting a little bit of use back in my left thumb, have to admit its really frustrating trying to do things with only one thumb, you get to appreciate what it is like to have "all 10 digits" working!
Ive made up the stowage frame, thats sits on the back of the flying bridge, seems different stations use these to stow different items, some put the drogue anchor in it, others it seems use it for the pump hoses, So, I'm yet to decide upon its "items", till ive studied the barmouth stations pictures to gleam a bit more info.
The basic frame is hollow plastic tube, gently heated and bent at the corners, the mounting brackets are from plasticard and the lower diagonal bars are plastic rod.
(http://s18.postimage.org/62jwazrv9/DSC03173c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/62jwazrv9/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/ontpstwsn/DSC03174.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ontpstwsn/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/k4hh769sx/DSC03175c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k4hh769sx/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/5scdrnd91/DSC03176c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5scdrnd91/)
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Sorry for no recent posts, but had to go back to the hospital to have the stitches removed from my hand, so that alone set me back a few days, till all was healed up again, now starts the physiotherapy road [again <*<] to gte my thumb fully operational again!.
in the meantime, i have been attempting certain "things" within my scope of dexterity. painting a few items, although screw lids on bottled paint has been a "no no". I have managed to find a UK supplier [at a reasonable price] for the brass nuts and bolts for fitting the stanchions, they are also a good shipper too, my order arrived in 2 days, so cant be bad.
no pics as yet, well you try taking a thumb out of the equation of holding a camera and taking pics ! :-))
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I have been steadily working away in the background, trying a few different methods of producing the stern [push pit] railings. I have tried plastic tube and rod, but had difficulty in shaping the curves and radii of the rail tubes, so put that idea to bed!. I tried hollow brass tube for the rails, but snapped on attempting to bend, then tried filling the tubes with water, taping over the ends and sticking in the freezer for a few hours.
Then I was able to bend the tubes with ease, but remember to not hang around and let the tubes thaw out!
The main uprights were cut from 5mm diameter tube and the cross holes drilled accordingly. The rail tubes are 3mm tube. I then mounted a small piece of 3mm tube to a triangular bolt plate and attached to the toe board, then dropped the uprigth tubes to the posts, then slid the rails through the uprights, till in correct places/positions. they were clamped and removed from trh deck mounts and soldered together.
I added soem saw cute to the ends of the rail tubes and soldered in some small brass plate, to then drill and shape in to the rail attachments.
I just have to clean them up with a little filing, remove the excess flux and etch prime.
(http://s13.postimage.org/4gz2f5xab/DSC03211c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4gz2f5xab/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/p413mboh9/DSC03210c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p413mboh9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/e1dn4xvr5/DSC03214.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e1dn4xvr5/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/o45aa5gy3/DSC03240.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o45aa5gy3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/sba63txx3/DSC03241c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sba63txx3/)
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I have managed to do some filing and sanding of the push pit railings, drilled out the mounting holes and also the holes for the stanchion cables. The rails have been etch primed and once dry given a coat of white paint.
(http://s18.postimage.org/smt9nwq39/DSC03242.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/smt9nwq39/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/3smbc3e6h/DSC03243.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3smbc3e6h/)
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I have managed to cut our and apply the rudder emergency access plates today, as well as applying the main deck anti slip coating. Yes, I have used the "spray on version" for this part of the build. Once this is fully dry, It will be overpainted correct colour as its a bit too dark "as is".
(http://s14.postimage.org/wyln4xpil/DSC03248.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wyln4xpil/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/6osaxeufv/DSC03249.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6osaxeufv/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/cxrd2p513/DSC03250.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cxrd2p513/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/7uh8aes75/DSC03251.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7uh8aes75/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/m9dvj3yjl/DSC03253.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m9dvj3yjl/)
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I have now remasked and painted the main deck area with a lighter shade of grey, to replicate the actual colour. I "chip matched" this with the, er "preferred" colur of Hurricane grey, used on Rover's.
(http://s7.postimage.org/fc79065k7/DSC03250.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/fc79065k7/)
thats the "before" colour
(http://s7.postimage.org/66yw6b25j/DSC03254.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/66yw6b25j/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/977nkdd63/DSC03255.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/977nkdd63/)
thats the "after", so to speak. The white square left on the rear deck is for the liferaft mount, which I am yet to construct, but its far easier to boned to the bare plastic, than it is to have to try and remove the paint later.
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(http://s15.postimage.org/4n2qz63dj/DSC03257c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4n2qz63dj/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/95zvgu4ht/DSC03258c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/95zvgu4ht/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/xcf45pg01/DSC03262c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xcf45pg01/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/s39m5q0s5/DSC03259c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s39m5q0s5/)
Rather than just upload some pictures of the brass railings in construction and then on fitting to the deck, I thought it might be better to just show them fitted and with the superstructure placed back on the deck and give you an overall view of how the build is going.
NO, not finished yet, still loads of things to make and fit.
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Sorry, but not much to report on the build update as I have been away from my workbench for a few days, having to deal with , er "other items" of importance.
In the meantime heres a few pics of its latest "outing" on our club pool. The deck rails and deck painting certanly help move the build on, but still loads more to do!
(http://s10.postimage.org/n9uwxt2ud/DSC03273c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n9uwxt2ud/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/hcz66zqtz/DSC03274c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hcz66zqtz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/od145ox9d/DSC03275c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/od145ox9d/)
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A freind of mine kindly offered to use my camera this afternoon, whilst i was sailing the Mersey, so heres a few more "live pics".
(http://s13.postimage.org/9976jspzn/DSC03284c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9976jspzn/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/d455hedkf/DSC03286c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d455hedkf/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/b33ho4zuj/DSC03287c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b33ho4zuj/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/s5sxxwvxx/DSC03289c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/s5sxxwvxx/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/prbq28y8p/DSC03293.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/prbq28y8p/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/br0t34a07/DSC03296.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/br0t34a07/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/jewksev6h/DSC03298c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jewksev6h/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/4qoceawsb/DSC03301c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4qoceawsb/)
I've had a week off from touching the build, will have to get back on track shortly, before I loose the plot ! [ha ha].
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Well Greg.... :embarrassed: ...your friend is NOT a great photographer.........but your vessels certainly looks the parrt....even life like!.................. :-)) .......Derek
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Thanks for your comment Derek, much appreciated.
it is often quite difficult to gte decent pictures of your own boats. you personally know what would be a "good shot", but having to leave it to others, you just have to be grateful for what you get [ha ha].
I have made a start on the stern lifebelt hangars today. to again keep weight down, i have used plasticard for the backing plates, but reverted to using some thin brass strip to shape and form the rounded hangar hooks for the belts them selves. I soldered a couple of 12ba brass bolts in to 2 holes drilled in the brass hangars, purely to make them easier and stronger to assemble to the plastic backplate.
As additional security, I also made up soem brackets that pickup on the back of the bolts, and loop round the handrails.
(http://s10.postimage.org/do2b7rbr9/DSC03318.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/do2b7rbr9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/48ehqesap/DSC03319.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/48ehqesap/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/xij4ajee5/DSC03320.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xij4ajee5/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/95urwbj4t/DSC03321.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/95urwbj4t/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/esiwsk6zp/DSC03322.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/esiwsk6zp/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/p9bu9va1p/DSC03323.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p9bu9va1p/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/k6t4sw93f/DSC03324.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k6t4sw93f/)
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I have been modifying the tubular fender protectors that i managed to purchase, as the ones i bought only had rope attachments on one end, the ones fitted to my boat have one either end. So after a bit of thought i came up with the following idea of how to modify them.
firstly cut a small piece of plastic tube, same diameter as the original eyelet. then drill a hole in the side of the cut tube, to accept a small piece of plastic rod, this rod being about 15mm in length. then drill slightly larger diameter hole to the plastic rod size through the end of the fender. Plastic weld glue the rod in to the side of the cut tube piece and leave to dry fully. Once dry, mix up a small amount of epoxy resin, sufficient to do the right number of fenders you are modifying, dab some resin on the sides of the plastic rod, then insert in to the holes drilled in the fender and allow to dry. Once the resin is dry, simply build up the side edges of the fender eyelets with a bit of putty and once dry, sand to profile.
I have now also painted the lifebelts for the stern holders, just need to apply the RNLI lettering.
(http://s15.postimage.org/58wb9bt1z/DSC03390.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/58wb9bt1z/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/75n0qdda9/DSC03391.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/75n0qdda9/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/cq5iojil3/DSC03394.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cq5iojil3/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/k3iskvr2h/DSC03396.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k3iskvr2h/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/4ncea7ejx/DSC03397.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4ncea7ejx/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/woqe0irwn/DSC03398.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/woqe0irwn/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/tvwrkmsbb/DSC03399.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tvwrkmsbb/)
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Ive had a bit more practise sailing the boat over the weekend.
a freind managed to capture a bit more video for me, hope you like!
http://youtu.be/zLDt7UWD0gA
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Looking really good & I like the rate your radar antenna rotates @. I was wondering how your arm is coming along too. You have built yourself a very nice boat & it seems to sail very well. I am building the Model Slipway Tamar & I am finding it a great kit to build. Like you I have made some changes too, mostly to add some strength in a few places & have made some bits from brass instead of white metal, I will be watching you complete your boat, what have you planned next,?. Mick B.
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Hi Mick,
My arm is coming along "slowly". I have good days and bad days with the nerves working properly in my fingers. so when its a good day, i can work on the boat, when i have a bad day, i could slam a door on my fingers and not feel it at all [ha ha], so best to leave the boat build alone on those days, dont want to either drop it or break something.
The radar motor rotates at 30 rpm, to be exact, but once the twin "aa" batteries drop a little bit of charge, it drops to about 20 -29 rpm, just right from what i can ascertain.
the geared "micro" motor is superb, I oiled it well before fitting, but mad a little access pilot hole i can still drop a bit of oil down on to the brass geartrain if ness, once in a while.
As for next build?
Well to be perfectly honest, I fancy a Tyne Class !
Think there is more than enough Severn's, Arun's, Trent's and Taymars for everyone to read about and see.
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Firstly, appologies for delay in update, but I have been waiting patiently, for "holiday break", to arraneg a "site visit" to the Barmouth Station. My build is getting to a stage where I need to check if any particular items may be different [in any way] from the Standard format mersey, as I do agree each station can and does request specific items for their location/duties.
So My sincere thanks go out to RNLI Customer relations and many thanks to Llewelyn Griffin [Lead Mechanic] for his time on Tuesday, whilst I interrogated him and aimed my camera in who knows how many different and unusual places and angles!
Some interesting information was gained and in fact lay true to the way the Model boat sails too.
The full size Mersey tends to wander to Starboard, funnily enough, mine does too, even with a slight adjustment of rudder trim, it still wanders!
I asked about "trim tab" angles and was told that they either run "fully down" when running out to seaward, or return with them retracted fully, which also acts as a failsafe to ensure they don't get damaged on the shore beaching.
The 12-26 also has an addition/specific, A grab handle is mounted to the forward engine deck, for additional hand support for the forward escape hatch entr/exit.
So hopefully now, I can start on the long awaited update to complete the remaining items.
I also go to see the new lifejackets and found that these are the first to actually have a pocket ! The zipper is just above the RNLi badging, and has a yellow fabric tag on the zipper end, just for those building to 2012 spec.
Just a few pics of my visit for those interested in 12-26 Moira Barrie.
(http://s10.postimage.org/sf94gonl1/DSC03655.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sf94gonl1/)
Trim tab in Fully Down position.
(http://s15.postimage.org/rnxffsiqv/DSC03658.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rnxffsiqv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/w1ugyybtt/DSC03660.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/w1ugyybtt/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/h1ow0czaz/DSC03785.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/h1ow0czaz/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/4wps2xemv/DSC03706.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4wps2xemv/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/xuq7hjdbf/DSC03696.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xuq7hjdbf/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/3ltyugu4t/DSC03716.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3ltyugu4t/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/b9gvcrsst/DSC03755.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b9gvcrsst/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/uu8ct3we3/DSC03742.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uu8ct3we3/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/pebnhkwgx/DSC03744.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pebnhkwgx/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/oj35cov5n/DSC03739.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oj35cov5n/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/6w4i1e8j9/DSC03749.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6w4i1e8j9/)
You will note that the stanchion rails now have a large black nylon disc, set against the stanchion, to prevent the stanchion coating getting chipped. [worth a note on its own].
the rail wires have new style clip locks, not fully accepted yet and prefer the older style, the RNLi format is for P clips and not the older style split pins, I won't got further in to that argumant here !
I now have over 300 photo's and over 3 hours of chat info to work on. definately well worth the visit and the 3.5 hour train ride each way.
One other bit of "techno info".
Cruising speed [10 knots] the twin cats slurp 10 gallons of diesel an hour.
At full throttle, it gulps down 22 gallons an hour!
Now thats a lot of nectar points !
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One other bit of "techno info".
Cruising speed [10 knots] the twin cats slurp 10 gallons of diesel an hour.
At full throttle, it gulps down 22 gallons an hour!
We heard from some of our friends that on her way to the Thames pageant the Caister lifeboat (a Dutch designed Valentine) took about 3 hours to get there and used about £500 worth of fuel.
They are all fairly thirsty!
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I have now started on the modifications to, er a "standard" Mersey, firstly with the forward deck grab handle. I first formed the handle from plastic rod, gently heating the 2 bend points and shaping to measure. the base plates are plasticard, with 3 drill holes. the centre hole was angled to accept the angle of the handle arms as it passes through the deck [to be secured underneath with epoxy resin]. the other 2 holes had a smaller piece of plastic rod inserted and bonded in place to replicate the mounting bolts.
Once dry, it was painted to suit and the epoxy applied underneath the deck to secure the grab handle arms. I prefer to pass such items through the deck ans secure below/underneath, as you can get a much better bond this way, rather than just rely on a sufrace bonding, where it can easily get knocked off later.
(http://s9.postimage.org/i01nwtg0r/DSC03819c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i01nwtg0r/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/4p2glgzit/DSC03820c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4p2glgzit/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/qwfukfwzl/DSC03821c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qwfukfwzl/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/gb115jwzl/DSC03822c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gb115jwzl/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/hd4ewd03f/DSC03823c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hd4ewd03f/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/ctyz2kxxd/DSC03824c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ctyz2kxxd/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/kyx823zkl/DSC03749.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kyx823zkl/)
And finally, "the real thing".
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The latest modification to take effect is the chequerplate addition, forward o bow tow post and tow cable hook. I first cut a paper template to make things easier, rather than just measure and cut straight from the plastic chequerplate. Then simply used the template over the chequerplate, scoring first and rechecking before making a deeper cut to seperate it from the rest of the sheet.
This, I then bonded down using 24hr epoxy.
(http://s11.postimage.org/lz9ft3lcv/DSC03921c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lz9ft3lcv/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/vz94eq9gr/DSC03922c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vz94eq9gr/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/b93ti144r/DSC03923c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b93ti144r/)
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Hi your Mersey is looking good.
Can you let me know were you get the plastic chequerplate from.
Thank you
Alan
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Thanks for your comment about the build.
I wish it was not taking so long, but id sooner it be right thsn rushed so to speak, especially as a lot of the items to go on now are more final detailling, than major components.
The chequerplate I purchased some time ago, from a model exhibition stall. its available in different scales too, so you can get an almost perfect representation from 1/24th upwards to 1/6th if you really want. its also available in "single" or "double" diamond, depending on the floor grip you are trying to represent. the one I used in the build is "double" pattern.
I have seen it available on ebay and presume some stores who sell styrene sheet/plastic sheet may well also sell this stuff.
If I see a link anywhere, I will be sure to post here for you.
[not unless some other kind person beats me to it - hint].
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Sorry to all those eagerly watching this build thread, but due to work comittments and also attending a few different model boat events of late, I have had little or no time to do any major work.
I will add however, that I have just purchased a "planet 7 ch" radio set, as I have now decided to operate a few more "toys" remotely, rather than use manual switches.
No, sorry, I won't say more than this, untill the rest of the switcher gear has been installed and working.
(http://s12.postimage.org/vmetvzzi1/DSC03902.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vmetvzzi1/)
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Im carefully and slowly constructing the interior at present, sorry but no decent pics to update on this, but heses a couple of pictures taken of the boat on our club pool, in near darkness.
See what you think...........
(http://s11.postimage.org/jpzua5mtb/IMG07315.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jpzua5mtb/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/eglkdsk7r/IMG07326.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eglkdsk7r/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/67vz2xmlj/IMG07329.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/67vz2xmlj/)