Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Dan.Lord on October 02, 2011, 12:19:25 pm
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Hi all, I've just taken delivery of this kit, & thought I'd start a build diary incase anyone's interested.
I've not built a Deans kit before, so a learning curve for myself.
The kit comes with one fullsize plan, with colour photo's of their model to help with construction, & a full set of instructions.
The hull is fibreglass, with deck, superstructure turrets etc being styrene & vac formings. The hull is nice & clean moulding, without pin oles etc, so pleased there.
The fittings are either Resin or white metal castings & look to be of good quality, & also come in a nice tray to keep them safe.
I'll post some pics as & when I make any progress, & hope the build goes ok :embarrassed:
Cheers Dan.
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I'd start a build diary incase anyone's interested.
O0
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And it's a yes from me too.
Jimmy
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hi thats a yes from me as well
aye
john
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Hi all, well I'll do my best & try not to dissapoint you all :} Nice pic there Bluebird. I went through the "Those in Peril" film today, & got a few, (or a lot really) Screen Captures to help with the detailing.
I've decided to make it in the style of the film, so will have to get a few extra parts for detailing like the sandbag thingys & a 20mm cannon for the stern etc, but these should be easy to get, there's a site, can't remember the name but have it somewhere that does lots of fittings & crew etc, so willl be putting an order in next pay day !!!!
As the hulls smooth fibreglass, & the originals wood, I thought I'd have a go at sticking Mahogany strip on to simulate the planking, I really like the finish on Bluebirds superb build. I did this with my Billings Calypso to add detail, & it worked a treat, so keep fingers crossed this'll work too.
Here's a couple of pics of the real boat, you can just about make out the planks on the hull, & very clearly on the deck.
Can allways sand it off if no good {:-{
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Hi Dan
Looks like a very nice kit. Looking forward to following the progress.
Howard
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Well made a start. Firstly I built a stand using the templates suppiled, then on to the launch. I had to sand down the hull edge, to get an even line around the top edge. this was only a few mm's so didn't take long. I was very pleased with the overall quality of the hull, a very clean moulding, with well marked ares to drill out & sand etc, nice one !!
Once the hull was sanded, the next job was to fit the prop shafts & "A" frame thingys, again nicely marked out where to drill, file, sand etc. Next The rudders were fitted, brass tubes & white metal rudders with steel shafts pre fitted.
I brought two motors with he kit, & couplings, so they fitted nicely in the vac formed motor mounts that were supplied. Once everything was test fitted these were glued in with two part epoxy glue, & plastic metal for strength. The motors will be held in with cable ties etc.
The kit comes with white metal screws, which will do whilst building, but I'll replace them with brass ones at the end as they finish off the boat nicely.
The next step was to fit the balsa strip around the inside edge of the hull to act as a step for the deck to sit on. Due to the shape of the hull the first strip had to be sanded to get the shape near to the hull, so it would sit level. I laid a steel rule across the deck & offered the strip up to it to get it level, & then cyno glued it in place, useing smaller pieces at the bow to allow for the curve. Oncwe this was done a second strip was glued all around. I filled the smalll / large gape between the hull & balsa with some Upol C body filler, as this sands easily & very smooth.
Next I have to cut out the deck & fit some support beams across the hull before attaching the deck. More to follow Cheers Dan.
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I am interested in what size the props are.
I have installed 2 JP 480's in my Armidale Patrol Boat which with 30 mm. 3 blade, plastic props draw about 6 amps each, in the bath.
Larger props push the current up quite considerably.
Have you tried measuring the current and what batteries are you thinking of using?
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Are they White Metal Props?
Bob
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Are they White Metal Props?
Bob
Thats what he said Bob, says hes going to change them to brass later. O0
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Seem to recollect, some where that white metal is heavy and soft hence why its used for figures.
So question is, is it easier to cast/make props with than brass.
Wouldn't "plastic' have been a better initial option.
Or have I misunderstood the materials and their properties ie Brass V Whitemetal??
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I don't know why the UK manufacturers include white metal props. They are heavy, don't usually run true and I suspect are not hydro-dynamically efficient. I guess they are quite cheap to cast along with the other fittings ;)
I have a large collection discarded from various kits O0
Barrie
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....a small word of warning. We have built two Deans Marine kits and had problems with the deck warping when the boat is in strong sunlight, had to keep re-gluing it in parts. Decided to replace the deck with one eighth balsa, strengthened and waterproofed with aircraft fuel sealer. Since then no problems.
Apart from that most satisfied with the rest of the kit....
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I don't know why the UK manufacturers include white metal props. They are heavy, don't usually run true and I suspect are not hydro-dynamically efficient. I guess they are quite cheap to cast along with the other fittings ;)
I have a large collection discarded from various kits O0
Barrie
When I built my Dean's HMS Nubian, the casting of the prop was so poor it was breaking away from the threaded boss inside, when I challenged Deans on this (I had no intention of using it as I prefer Brass props) they were quite shirty about it saying that modellers might want it for a static version of the model, that I thought was ironic from a company specialising in R/C models. I was also 'amused' because if you wanted Nubian as static model they had not supplied an accurate prop anyway! There are some fantastic brass props out there so dump the Dean's props.
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....just to confirm, we also dumped the supplied cast ones and bought brass :-))
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The ,props are 30mm, as for power useage, I've not got that far as yet %% In the instructions it says use 1 or 2 10 Amp esc's, & 6.7.2v batteries, I'll go for a racing car type pack, as they look to be the only type that'll fit, & need to keep the weight down, to get the speed. Amps the motors use, again no idea, how do you check ?
White metal props are not very nice, will deffinately be replacing them with brass ones, these were only used to help with rudder placement etc, to make sure the clearence was ok. I'l be replacing some of the fittings, as they arn't that great.
On the deck front, I'll be putting several cross beams in & useing gel cyno to give the deck a good purchase, so hopefully (famous last words) warping won't be an issue {:-{
Still waiting on the strip wood to cover the hull to arrive, over 2 weeks now <:( An email required one thinks <*< <*<
Enjoyed the build so far, not looking forward to the turrets though {:-{ a steady hand will be needed I think. Cheers Dan.
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With regard to Amps used by motors, a lot of folks tend to fit a fuse rated at 5 amps LESS than the speed controller rating. For an accurate reading however, you really need an ammeter wired in series with the motor lead and run it in water to find out the reading. For Two motors then double the current drawn.
Hope this helps
Ken
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With regard to Amps used by motors, a lot of folks tend to fit a fuse rated at 5 amps LESS than the speed controller rating. For an accurate reading however, you really need an ammeter wired in series with the motor lead and run it in water to find out the reading. For Two motors then double the current drawn.
Hope this helps
Ken
Cheers Ken, :-)) :-)) I have a multi meter somewhere, just hope I can suss out how to work it :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
Regards Dan.
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Hi All, just a quick update, cut deck to shape, made from 1mm abs sheet. Cut & snapped it, came off pretty well. Positions for the deck beams are marked on the deck, so I've made marks on the hull, so I know where to fit them. Ramin is supplied for this.... next job O0
On a good note, got an e mail saying Mahogany strip was posted today, before e mail asking where abouts was sent. Nice one :-)) :-))
Cheers Dan.
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Hi all, fitted the deck beams, & glued the deck in place useing superglue gel. Given it plenty of weight to secure it. Seems to fit quite well. I hope so anyway %%
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Nice
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Hi Dan
I would tend to 'beef up' your joint around the deck as superglue might become brittle and suffer when subjected to water. I usually run a slither of epoxy resin around the inside of the joint with my finger to strengthen it. It will be out of sight so no harm done.
regards
Ken
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Hi Ken, yes thats a good idea, I've got some of that two part stuff I'll run it around the inside edge. Also add some filler around the outside to seal it too. Cheers Dan.
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Dan the easiest way to seal the deck joint is as Ken says, with two part epoxy resin.
If you thin down the resin with a drop of meths [minute amount only] and then pour it into the hull. Hold the hull upside down and manouvre it so the resin runs round the joint.
Doing it this way it is best to fill any gaps on the outside with P38 first.
Hope this is clear enough. :-))
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Ha ha Cheers Dicky, clear as mud {-) {-)
I think I have some resin left over from my Dalek building days. Could you use thinners instead of Meths as I don't think I have any :((
Gonna sand down the edge now & add some pug here & there. Cheers Dan.
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Sorry Dan only ever used meths [available from Halfords]
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Cleaned up deck edge, & added a little filler. Sanded off excess. Quite pleased with results. Quickly cut out superstructure fits reasonably well once edges cleaned off & sanded flat should look ok.
Mahogany strip never arrived :(( was lloking foward to fitting it tomorrow. Never mind.
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Hi Dan, is it an optical illusion in the third photo up or is your hull twisted ?
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There is a small twist, but the picture makes it look a million times worse. Looking straight on with your eyes closed & the lights off it looks fine {-) {-) By the time all the fittings etc are on I don't think it will show. ( Well I hope not anyway {:-{ )
Cheers Dan
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Think it's both the angle of the photo Rich', and moreso don't think it's sat in the stand correctly compared to the other pics, seems to be leaning on its side to starboard.
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There is a small twist, but the picture makes it look a million times worse. Looking straight on with your eyes closed & the lights off it looks fine {-) {-) By the time all the fittings etc are on I don't think it will show. ( Well I hope not anyway {:-{ )
Cheers Dan
Dan, Dicky is to close because it looks alright from down here %) %) %)
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Hi all, well the Mahogany strip arrived yesterday, so I thought I'd have a go at fitting some.
Firstly I made a template at a 45o Degree angle & then marked it with a pencil Having already sanded the hull I must add to get a good key.
I used Cyno to attach the strips to the hull, this dries very quickly with the wood, & holds well. Not only to the hull, but to my fingers as well, so constantly having to go wash my hands to get the stuff off {:-{ I've tried tweezers, but to no avail. Anyway, cutting & fitting each strip takes an age, & is rather boring to say the least, never the less needs to be done. After a few hours I've got this far, & used 7 1 metre lengths.
Enough for today I think before I launch it out of the window :}
Quite pleased with the results so far.
Cheers Dan.
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Rather than cut and attach each piece singularly, could you glue the "full" length and then trim it and so on.
It would save unnecessary wastage if practical to do so.
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Well after many hours gluing & unsticking fingers etc, managed to complete the hull. Now got the deck to do, but that should be a lot easier as it's flat. I'll tidy up the edges once the wooden "bump" strip has been attached. All in all I think it looks rather good. I'll seal the wood before I give it several coats of primer.
Dan.
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As you say Dan, looking good and well worth the sticky fingers.
Howard
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Hi all, finally managed to finish off the planking. Quite a task really, looks nice but very time consuming. I sealed the wood with super glue in the end, & gave it a good sanding, came up nice & smooth, allmost as if I'd used Immac {-) {-)
Now just got to fill any small gaps etc & hopefully get some paint on it to see if it was all worth while {:-{
In the end I used 45 1 metre length strips, with allmost no wastage, which was a bonus.
Cheers Dan.
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Thats a grand job!
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Nice work! A very frastrating but ultimatly a very satisfing job I would guess.
1. How much did the wood cost
2. where did you get it from?
3. What Superglue did you use?
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Superb work on the mahogany hull planking - looks like a lot of effort but it has really paid off! I wouldn't be able to tell that wasn't a scratchbuilt wood hull.
The diagonal planking is quite prominent on the real boats I've seen with this construction method (although to be fair they are 50+ years old and most have been out of the water for decades) so it really makes a difference to the model's realism. I have a "Whaleback" hull myself (not from the Dean's kit, it's bright blue GRP) and when/if I get round to building a boat with it, might be tempted to try the same thing!
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Hi all, thanks for the kind comments :embarrassed: It certainly took a while to do, but was easy really once the first plank was fitted. I'm not sure how well it will show once painted, but I think it'll be worth it in the long run.
To answer Martins "Q"s:
1. The strips were 23p each, that's 5mm x 0.5mm x 1000mm & on this kit I used approx 45 strips, so with postage it was about £15.00 so not to expensive.
2. I purchased them from "The Model Dockyard" in Truro. I had to wait a couple of weeks so I could get them all the same shade. Before anyone asks, I know I'm painting them, but I ordered way to many, to be on the safe side, & can always use the others on another project which might need to be seen O0 Forward thinking one thinks :-))
3. As for the glue, I used the cheap stuff from the local 99p shop, 4 large 20ml bottles for 99p no less {-)
Once the hull was sanded to get a good key, the strips stuck really well. I then poured the glue all over to seal it & sanded it back smooth. seems to have worked well.
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hi there Dan
the build is looking really smart, I really like the planking
Couple of questions for ya -
Are you going to plank the bottom of the hull - from the chine to the keel?
Before you paint the exterior of the hull, are you thinking about sealing it with some form of epoxy or polyester resin?
My personal thoughts are that it would be best to seal the planking with say z epoxy finishing resin - then this (as you know) can be rubbed down to a lovely finish for painting on but also it adds that bit of barrier and protection to prevent any water from getting into the planking, swelling it up and splitting it away from the hull.
KEEP ON THE GOOD WORK - IT IS LOOKING REALLY SMART
got me thinking of another re-build of one of these.
aye
john
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Hi John, many thanks for kind words :embarrassed: praise indeed from the master O0
I hadn't intended to plank the bottom, as it's not really seen, but now you've mentioned it, & I do have plenty of wood spare, it seems a shame not to, so I've bitten the bullet & started to plank away :-)) :-)) Will definitely look better in the long run.
As for sealing the wood, I used cyno on the deck & sides, I did this on my Calypso when I built her, & it seems to have stood up to the water test, with no visible signs of lifting etc. Obviously I'll go around the edges etc with some model filler to fill any gaps that might be present, & give it a few coats of primer first. Hopefully that'll be sufficient.
Now if you're thinking of building another, that would be great, I really enjoyed your last one's build diary. :-)) :-))
Right a bit more gluing before back to work :(( :(( Cheers Dan.
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Well after many more hours gluing planks, & ungluing fingers :embarrassed: I've finally finished the planking. I found the lower hull the hardest to do, due to the curvature of the hull, but got there in the end. I must say it looks nice, even better with your eyes closed %%.
Anyway glad this part is done as it was getting a bit boring to say the least, also fingers were getting rather sore from picking off the glue + skin.
Next job get some primer on it to see if it was all worth it. Cheers Dan.
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Dan,
It looks evenbetter down here %) %) %)
Seriuosly looks good :-)) :-))
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Hi Dan
Well worth the time and sticky fingers. looking really good.
Howard
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Thanks chaps :embarrassed: Just got to fill some gaps then get some primer on to see if it was worth all the effort. Cheers Dan.
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Hi all, well after a long break, I've made a start on the ASR again %% Having got over the sore fingers etc from sticking on the wood strips I've primed filled & sanded the hull & decking. You can't really see in the pictures, but the lines of the planking show quite well in places, & look rather good, if I do say so myself :embarrassed: I've made a start on the main superstructure / cabin, sanded it to get a good fit, & now making a start on cutting out the windows. I think I'll have to make up some frames for them as they are very faint on the vac forming. Anyway it's good to be back on the build. Cheers Dan
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Well spent a few hours this afternoon cutting out the rest of the windows %% managed to keep the frames in place for the front cabin.
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Ok, so I purchased this boat as a project from Dan via ebay not knowing it was this boat! The hull planking is quite impressive work so (stupidly) I decided to plank the cabin structure in the same way.....
As this is now my new project I'm uncertain as whether to continue it here or start a new thread??
I'll put up some pics of my somewhat slow progress once I figure out how to attach them without my whole post being deleted for being oversize, grrr!
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Ok, so here's my first attempt at planking the cabin
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Hi cav995. I can't believe that after all of that work on the hull, Dan has given up on it :(( That seems a real shame. I hope that you can carry on this great little project. I seem to give up on projects to easily my self these days. Keep at it :-))
Regards
Phil
Devon
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(http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/cavs3/media/054_zps77987ed7.jpg.html)
Well I managed to get a bit more done on the cabin structure, its slow work but quite satisfying, apart from the build up of superglue on the fingers!
Also managed to pick up a pair of brass props at a very good price from 'the bay'.
Now the dark nights have returned I might be able to get a little bit done in the evenings :-)
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Looking good! I hope Dan is alright as he put lots of effort into planking this beauty and will hopefully get to see the finished job.
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Hi all, yes I'm ok, just totally lost interest in boat building {:-{ , went back into Clay shooting :-)) , but the bug never totally leaves you does it, O0 was in the loft & found an old Calypso I built years ago , re lighted that old fire :-)) so now thinking of getting a model slipway Envoy tug & giving it ago.
Any Cavs995, how's it coming on ? I'd love to see a piccy of her now :-) all the best Dan.
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Welcome back Dan
Howard
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Thanks Howard :embarrassed: not sure to go for Envoy or Deans Tribal Zulu ??? Or maybe the Vliestroom from slipway %% any suggestions ???
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I would go for a sleek destroyer with lots of history, but then I am biased:O)
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Hi Dan
Three good choices, I'm not a tug man so it would be between the Zulu and Vliestroom. The Zulu would appear to be a longer build and the Vliestroom is 'different'.
Still debating on my next build, whether to stay with ASRs or possibly a MTB or a complete change.
Howard