Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Radio Equipment => Topic started by: hedgerowwpete on November 27, 2011, 09:49:50 pm
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I am looking to buy as a new bee a complete set of every thing I need, handset and six channels and servos etc. Now with the modern age of the fleabay and cheap Chinese products does the odd adage of buying a second hand set of top quality stuff is better than buying a brand new but less costly set work or not with both in theory being the same cost on outlay. I have £100 to spend on the hand set and as much other stuff as possible for the aerials etc and for inside the boat another £75 for the controls apart from batteries but includes speed controllers and receivers etc or will a used set come with worn out parts and a new list of problems
I am at the moment seriously considering the older lower freq rather than the 2.4g stuff due to my need for a range as long as possible in rough water conditions. the boat aerial does not need to be hidden and can be as long as needed the same with the hand set a separate aerial going to a telescope pole say 6 metres high is OK so we keep line of sight. as models go it is for a practical purpose rather than a cosmetic use.
also I was told in another thread that the lower freq are better received over distance then the 2.4g stuff because it does not work to well over rough water, this to me seems like a great nugget of advice and one i would like to stay with so if i go down the new route how simple is it to buy the lower freq stuff and crystals, I get the over view that the modern 2.4g stuff is phasing out the old, is that true or just me?
I understand the way crystals can be changed to separate Chanel's and I am just intrested in distance. I would also like to know if there are ways to not so much increase distance as 400-500metres is Maximum but i would like to know how to improve the reception and transmitting. IE with better aerials like extention poles etc and do Modern systems produce a better quality of signal so the older systems are of a poorer quality , yes i understand that transmitting power can not be increased passed its limits but do the hand sets power to those limits or are they underpowered, IE some systems work better at distance where as others do not? we have all seen the cheap and nasty toys that dont work past 20 feet does there lie a similar problems with cheaper handsets fron china
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what you sailing at long range in rough water conditions
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As regards transmitter power - there is a legal limit on power for model use - I dont know of any hobby grade TX that transmits noticeably below this. Obviously, none transmit above that power. The toy grade ones (the ones that come in set that costs less than a decent set of batteries) usually run off a PP3 and have a bit of bent wire for an aerial, and have a range beyond arms reach, but not much. Range, for hobby grade, is more a question of line of sight, the quality of the receiver and siting of the aerial, as a rule of thumb, the higher the better.
2.4GHz signals tend to bounce off water much more readily than lower frequencies, and are very line of sight. Salt water tends to absorb any signals very readily, thats why transmissions to real submarines happen on very low frequencies, and to receive them the sub has to trail about a mile of wire and be very near the surface. Model ones work great in fresh water, but lose signal very close to the surface. At least, the ones that I have seen do.
In most boats running on calm water signal pick up is no problem, the small aerials are easy to hide and still work fully effectively. On 27 I have "controlled" at yacht at 400 yards. On 2.4 the furthest I have done is about 200 yards, but that was a 3 foot long warship painted in camo, so any further and just seeing which way it was pointing would have been a problem.
When the aerial vanishes down a trough between waves, signal will be lost. Just how long it takes for the signal to be re-established and what the controls do in the meantime is a matter of guesswork. In the linked vid, there appeared to be a long whip aerial, indicating a lower frequency setup. This is much more likely, in the conditions shown, to get a usable signal for more of the time.
this is the posted reply that i was basing my ideas apon.
the ideal would be new because it has no problems with hopefully but is it though, I am still trying to digest the whole radio set up any way, it starts with three different freq, which i understand, each one is split into smaller sections for differant people to use at the same time which i understand and the fact that the two lower freqs are old style electronics , i think and that the modern 2.4G can be supplied as normal radio, digital, modular, latching and what ever else, confusess the day lights on me, does anyone know where theres a decent write up on the subject, so i can educate my self.
as for the boat, it is to be used on the sea shore so will have to deal with swell
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Back when I had my shop some rc airfields required your radio gear to be checked/calibrated by the appropriate people, here in australia its model flight australia, we had a few come back that had issues and all the owners said they werent to worried they would just stick em on ebay.
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Prehaps some sense of scale should be recognised before wanting to set up a base transmitting station capable of contacting Mars.
Controlling a 3Ft. model at 200 yards, that's more than twice the length of an international football pitch.
If you're considering "Old" gear, for toy boats, 27mogs or 40mogs FM, only things likely to have deteriorated are Nicads, pot tracks and a sense of reality on the sellers part.
Regards Ian.
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the boat is being built as the cost of foam and fibre glass to me is nill, on the other hand not one single piece of equipment has been purchased to fit inside it, no props, servos, radio equip, nothing, nor has any freq been decided apon untill i am fully aware of the implications for it. I was thinking 2.4G because its the new and modern and all signing and dancing were as the older more informed people seam to regard the lower range of 27 megs/mogs/KHz as better for stupid ideas involving sea water.
what would help here is a sticky with the basics of radio recievers on it so a fair decision could be made?
yes i do realise that 500m out it will be hard to see the boat, but can we just concerntrate on the radio system rather than the visual system.
does anyone freq have better properties over sea water than the others?
how could one keep a better signal going to the boat at distance without breaking the law?
the boat aerial was going to be put on a fibreglass pole 4mm in diam and about a metre long, to short or long?
the handset aerial can be but does not have to be lifted in the air to keep line of sight, i have avalible an old fishing pole made from carbon fibre that is about 8m long that could be used to hold a wire in the air if i wanted to,
but would the extra cable from the hand set weaken the signal strengh due to the longer singal run?
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OK, oft quoted range for most FM sets was about 1mile Air range and half that ground range. Perhaps you need a quadrocopter with an airbourne TX system? Certainly get over the wave problem, failing that, you need a book on antenae design for different frequencies.
Regards Ian
The South African company selling the Hook dumper don't seem to have a problem with conventional gear.
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As regards 2.4 do you anyone who could lend you a set? There is some contrversy over the use of it, in my opinion a lot is old wives tales.Who do you actually know who really had problems? I dont. Just if worried buy longer aerials and fit above waterline.I fail to see why you need such a range and wonder how in rough weather if youd be able to see and control anyway. Good luck John.
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you can put a 2.4ghz ant on top of a meter pole just use bootlace coax and an antenna of a home modem/rooter with a bit of gain there are long cables available sold for home modem/rooters and I think some of the spectrum receivers have plug in antenna leads.
my experience 48 years in RC and a A class radio Ham of over 25 years and even longer in radio
Peter
since your the first person that has shown a history of radio knowledge can i ask a few questions from a master of the radio waves. does seawater affect the reception of the signal ?
does simply sticking the boat aireal on fibreglass stick make sence
and given that i am starting from scratch and knowing all that you do, is there one freq that you would say , "yes thats the one to use" I am expecting the hobbie to involve more boats later on so the base transmitter unit will be used for other boats but on fresh water
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although ive been involved with model boating for around 25 years over the last three ive used my models in salt water only , i normally stand on the shoreline while my model is operating offshore , to date ive not experienced any problems using my planet / twister 2.4 ghz radio sets . even when the model is heeled over and the receiveer is below the surface of the water !
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although ive been involved with model boating for around 25 years over the last three ive used my models in salt water only , i normally stand on the shoreline while my model is operating offshore , to date ive not experienced any problems using my planet / twister 2.4 ghz radio sets . even when the model is heeled over and the receiveer is below the surface of the water !
is there any chance i can send a pm as I could do with a mentor on certain matters of sea water
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not a problem , weather permitting i get to operate my models most days !
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as an update the sea going bait boat with a slow running petrol engine has just been fitted with a second hand set of futaba or what ever they are called set from fleabay for £35 with three servos and a reciver, we are now awaiting the extra servos and the large collection of boat props ready for the sea trials in the canal
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what frequency have you gone for then ?
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sorry, its been a very long while since i bothered with this forum i forgot to look at the replys, we are using 2.4g.
the reason for this is mainly because all of my questions/concerns regaurding 27mhz and 35mhz and 40 mhz went, as ever unanswered.
i went with the latest technoligy because i would belive that all the lower freq are going to be scraped off. this is also why we went for new rather than old tech and a 5 channel system not the three we wanted.
we are using an extended aerial as well for better distence on both ends of the system.
most of the help i am getting is off a car forum and not the boat forum and as such almost every thing they do is 2.4gh only with not much at all of the lower freqs
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you do realise that the length of the antenna is critical dont you? any longer than what it allready is and its susceptible to interference.
What your under taking is very risky. As in like guys with 30 years experience of building boats wont undetake what your doing risky. Im very interested actually in what your doing. Maybe you can teach me something, have you got any pics of your progress?
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most boat aerials i have been told are either half or quarters of what can be up to about five foot long, i cant remember the exact length, most are nearer a lot less than that so by adding to the model boat a thin fibreglass rod 4mm in dia and solid make up we have not only the rest of our auto anti capsize device (balloon filled with squirty foam set hard stuffed into fibreglass rod a foot away from boat deck) this then gives me maximun available aerial to collect reception signals from the handset.
the next point is the old line of sight thingy that everyone things is impossible to solve so we thought the higher the person with the hand set the further over the top of the waves you will "see". taken a bit further why stand on step ladders 8 metres tall on a beach, when most of the handsets are available with a socket point that the aerial can be plugged into rather than the telescopic one .
take that even further and one can just set up say an 8 metre long carbon fibre broken fishing pole which will pack down inside its self and then when wanted have its end stuffed into the sand extended just like a telescope aerial on a hand set with a simple wire aerial taped onto the top end running down to the aerial aux socket plug and a ground wire combo,
so what we are doing is not altering the said length of the aerial as that as we all know is a fixed distance etc etc etc blah blab blah, what we are doing is maximixing there extention capabilities on the boat and just repositioning the handset aerial up 10 foot off the floor, OK so its not a long wire rhombus but a simple advantage of what we have available to hand.
as for the whole 2.4gh not working over water, i have seen at my newly found model shop in the blackcountry a "marine spec 2.4gh handset" designed to be used for boats.
also many many people think this boat is going to go out in 20 foot high waves in a force 2598 storm , its not any higher than a couple of foot surf would be to high for me to launch it and after the first three breakers the waves become undulating not breaking
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sounds like some good solutions. 2.4ghz can be used on water, most of us do. it just doesnt penetrate it very well, especially at a distance and worse in sea water.
how are you going to get around the problems with the engine? what if the boat does capsize and your self righting system works your engine will flooded and then the boat is at the mercy of the sea.
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You may get some trouble using a carbon fibre pole next to your aerial, our yacht lads had to move theirs away from the mast,
Nemesis
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One way is to put all your ideas into practice and let us know the results? :-))
Regards Ian
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the anti capsize device is a deep yatch hull desssign with a two kilo bar of lead in it and ontop a fibreglass rod with a foam filled balloon on it so there is no other centre of gravity other than the one i want.
drive wise for the first prototype is a car windscreen motor and batteries. there is only one way it wont come back that is if it floods which i cant see happening so thats easily sorted. as for the use of 2.4gh the only people who seem to have problems with it are all on this forum the car and airaplane people dont and then again neither do futaba either so i am pretty relazed with there research team knowing whats what
as for the petrol motor we are going to work on that over the summer, but for now we want to perfect the droppers and hull shape and steering and the usual details first, then the next hull which we will knock up will get rid of all the snaggs and then we can try the snorkles.
i have not heard of carbon affecting the aerial, i will throw that back to the lads on the car forum to see what they make of it,
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not sure why you think your going to have problems with the 2.4 ghz radios ? im sailing both electric powered and sail models from a beech / slipway in the sea and within sight of the radio communication tower for the whole of the dockyard ( inc naval ) the swell can be sometime upto around two foot high , to date ive never had any range or loss of signal issues . my radio sets are a planet t5 2.4 ghz and a planet twister 2.4ghz ! jon
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for some reason Jon it is the whole of this forums principles that all 2.4gh sets should be burnt in a pile as Satanist and corruption of our children and any one selling or should i say PUSHING 2.4gh kit should be branded in public, etc etc etc.
personal i find mad mikes postings "" it just doesn't penetrate it very well, especially at a distance and worse in sea water. "" as a gentle negative comment but others have been almost ferocious in there attacks to me <*< <*<
I don't know why because as a newbie i don't know anything, :embarrassed: :embarrassed: but the two things i have found about this boat forum in the last couple of months is never ever ever, EVER mention anything about IC engines as they are all Satanist devil engines, so is any thing to do with 2.4gh controllers. gawd knows why because every time i open my big trap it has a 40Meg hand unit rammed down it. but no one answers simple questions >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-(
I only popped back to let the few Satan users what i was up to as i have found that a car forum, yep thats right a radio control car user forum has much more helpfull and less angry members on it and one is willing to me a mentor to me , which is also some thing else banished from this forum., I will be running on the car forum a load of pictures and where we have mucked up , because every time you post something you get ten ideas to try instead, mostly there proven or done before ideas, but for some reason on the boat forum its a " your one your own , matey" answers
as an exsample look at this thread, lets start it with a standard newbie question, what do i look for when buying new equipment and what should i generaly be looking for
, is there ONE ANSWER here that says any of the things i have been told on the car forum. Buy a famous name brand , for parts etc, try to ask if it can been seen working, borrow a boat /car take it with you with a set of crystals to test it, , certain models/makes have standard faults, if you do buy one that does not work try these points to see if it was this that has broke, ect etc etc, instead we are now talking about a sea going bait deliver boat that i stopped writing about on the chit chat because of the abusive remarks and knock downs, sad but true i am affraid
its a shame really but i think most newbes would be better off with a mentor either in person or on line , some one willing to learn as well as teach, i know cause i am one on another forum on another subject and it makes a massive difference.
and the thread marked what to look out for when buying second hand equipment to me strikes the mark as a fantastic sticky that most newbies would want to read, but alase not here
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having been bitten with buying some second hand radio id personally now only buy NEW as it will also carry a garuntee it works ! i returned to model boating after a long break so some of the electronics have improved vastly . having been at the pondside and watched people walk past with their own models and start operating without carrying out any frequency checks helps swing the desision to buy the newer 2.4 ghz band which eliminates frequency clashes ! as for internal combustion engines i dont think its so much those on this forumn being against their use but due to many local authorities banning the use of ic models on ponds in their areas , due to both noise and a small amout of oil polution . i can see therfore why some people have recomended you check that ic models would be allowed on your chosen strech of water , none of us would want to build a model only to be told sorry mate cant run that here ? .however with the development in brushless motors and lipo batteries electric models are often quicker than the old ic engine anyhow , and have the advantage of being able to opetate on many more stretches of water !
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Hedgerow pete you have got me horribly mistaken.
Firstly 2.4 ghz. I use 2.4ghz on my boats, its brilliant but it is not good at penetrating through water, on flat water there fine. Bit on the sea with the waves going up and down at 500 metres i was merely concerned that you will be constantly losing and gaining signal as the boat dissapears behind a wave and returning again.
But seeing as your putting the transmitter antenna on a mast then it should be ok.
Secondly the reason why i think the use of an IC engine is bad is because i expect getting though the surf will have your boat awash. So as a preventative measure of your hull flooding is to completely seal the engine compartment. But Ic engine bays need to be open for cooling and air intake. Electic motors do not and can be built into a completely air tight hull.
that vid you showed of the bait boat going out to see is electric and has the ability to run underwater.
I was only trying to warn you of possible problems you will encounter but obviously ive wasted my time and so i will just let you get on with it.
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At 27 MHz the full wavelength is around 10 Metres
At 40 MHz 6 Metres
At 2.4GHz a couple of inches max
Running a micro coax up a carbon pole to gain height will attenuate the signal.
My yachts on 2.4 with the aerial at water level have no problems even running the other side
of a large fountain and even through it with no loss of signal.
Once you power through the two or three breakers to the swell behind them
it may be ok
Keep us posted
Ned
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Hedgerow Pete.
Could you not be so aggressive against the members please. We are, after all, trying to help you. Everybody has a different slant on your problems and we are doing our best.
Ken (moderator)
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OH why OH why is this getting to be ANOTHER dig at you dig at me tirade.
Hedgerow Pete what really mystifies ME is the distance you want to control a model at.I sail on a lake that is 3 miles long 3/4 wide all I use is a futaba 2.4 set,my eyesight is excellent and I sail Marbelhead yachts now at anything over 200 yds distance there is no way on earth can you deduce which way that yacht is travelling.The Mast is 6 feet tall with white sails and the hull is bright red.If you want to sail further than that your Model will have to be huge for you able to see it.
Dave
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Where does the idea that all 2.4 should be burnt, as far as I am aware a lot of forum members use them !! %%
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it all started here:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=33942.msg335598#msg335598
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That's a good question, actually - what ARE you sailing?
Dave.
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Hes building this bait boat, should do the job:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=33917.msg335321#msg335321
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hedgerowpete,
If you want to produce one of these bait boats why not make one with a similar spec.
The 1 in the video runs on 40 Mhz and is brushless electric.
Despite all the development costs of this boat why change them.
As has been said an I.C. Engine requires a large volume of air to run so is it really a good idea to have air inlets and a hot exhaust exit to go through breakers like in the video.
The choice is yours of course but if you think you get better information about specialist boats on a car forum take your advise from there.
But
You have a full spec in the advert for the boat why change it if that is what you want.
It would have helped if you had been more specific about what you wanted as instead of talking in generalities information could have been tailored to your specific needs not just generic questions.
If you go on to the model car forum I wish you well and you will always be welcome on Mayhem.
Bob
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well it seems i have upset and offended people, very sorry i am , now you know how it feels, again apoligises i did start this thread in the hope of being a sticky for new bies like me to learn from i did not expect it to become a slanging match, i would have rather had this thread returned to its orginal ideal of a teaching base rather than where it has gone now. I doubt it now, so again many many apologises etc etc pete
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One of the problems with todays stupid education system is that for the questions on the test papers, there is a multiple choice answer system. :D The required answers, on this posting, seem to have encompassed so many tangential subjects, the term "There are no stupid questions" has been disproved. {:-{ Spoken and written English have been deteriorating at a rapid pace since the introduction of mobile phones, %% it now seems that basic comprehension has done so at the same rate due to forums like this. :((
Don't shoot the messenger, If the answers given don't answer the question you think you've asked, perhaps you have asked the wrong question. O0
Regards Ian.
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Hmmm, I wouldnt say people have been offensive - quite the opposite in fact, they have merely responded to your comments about using an IC engine in rough water by saying that its going to be very difficult, if not impossible, for you to get it to work without cutting out as it goes through the first wave. People here arent "Anti IC" its simply that the majority of boating lakes have a strictly no IC law imposed on them by the owning counties/councils/group due to the hazard of oil/fuel spills.
I would suggest using SLA batteries, or maybe even LifePo4's if you have the cash, with an electric motor (or 2, depends on how many props), and use scotchkote to protect electrical components against water ingress.
Hey, if you feel people who purposefully keep their rc models away from water are more authorative about what will work int he surf, then by all means, talk to the guys on your rc car forum. Just remember that if you do end up needing help from fellow boaters, its best not to burn the bridge as you leave.
Good Luck!
Dave.
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Is this a bait boat ? Or is it for towing lines out and being used as a small fishing boat. as I would have thought it would be usless dropping bait in rough water.
Peter
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its a bait boat. hes planning on running out anything up to 500 meters beyond the breakers etc to plant the bait. For a novice builder hes certianly jumped into the deep end (no pun intended) of boat building.
What you are attempting pete is something that even experienced boat builders wouldnt dare, or at least not expecting the boat to come back. Boat building has a very steep and unforgiving learning curve, the slightest foul up can result in a complete loss of your boat, relying on chance and good luck will 9 times out of ten result in tears. There are some things that can only be learnt threw personal experience it cannot be trained, but only warned in advance. You have to plan for the worse case scenario, such as with the IC for instance if it decides to cut out 200m from the shore then by bye boat, If it loses signal and drifts out to sea bye bye boat. It sounds negative i know but in reality and any of these experience builders will tell you that its the silly things that cause the problems and not preparing for them has the worst results.
Im sorry if i offended you in anyway. Nobody here wants you to fail and were just trying to steer you away from things that will compremise/risk your succes.
Mike
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Is this a bait boat ? Or is it for towing lines out and being used as a small fishing boat. as I would have thought it would be usless dropping bait in rough water.
Peter
welcome to the deseased thread on second hand equipment, since you have only just joined allow me to for the final time explain the whole lot again from the begining !
i due to a spinal injury am unable to cast at any distance when sea fishing, one solution to this problem is called the " aquacat dingly berry" which is a sea going bait boat, due to its cost of £1500 i wanted to build one similar to it.
the basic spec for the auqa cat is a range of 500metres at sea, a weight of 14 kilos and a strucual size of 300mm by 300mm by 1000mm, the type of the aerial and transmitter is not speced so i did ask which one to use, 25,35, 40,2.5, being a beginer most of the books i have borrowed from the libraries of birmingham do not even mention 2.4Gh let alone explain singal locking and tracking. so i thought i woul dread up about it here, but no one has done that sticky yet.
after a lot of time reading past articale and threads i decided to join this forum and start to educate myself better.
the first posted question was the use of a petrol style fueled engine or IC. the reasons for this is very simple, batteries, to use this bait boat will need 4 trips per hour and four hours long, at least, the aqua cat uses one battery per trip so that is far to many batteries to carry plus the fishing gear etc etc so the idea of a bucket of fuel rather than a wheel barrow of batteries and or a generator, every keeps mentioning lipos but not untill my mentor explained them to me did i find out what they were on about, even then we are not that keen on those or any other battery.
so since the few books on ic engines are mainly designed for aircraft means they are designed to run at 2 to 10 thousand rpm, where as a boat prop would be nearer a few hundred so what we would nead is a slow running ic engine, we have decided for the prototype to use electric as it makes the design easier to use, the proper version is to use an ic motor. this will be simple to water cool and a simple snorkle to vent.
the next question posted and this thread was supposed to be a question of why, what, where,whom etc about someone buying second hand equipment.
due to this forum not running a mentor system of some such or form, and generaly the negative replys and such like i asked on several other forums that deal with radio control, on one of these i have bean offered a mentoring from a gentleman in northyorkshire, this person used to run model boats but now only does cars, he is open to the idea of sea boats, designs made on the hoof and a general bodge, never once have any suggestion bean knocked back but all have been built on, it was this support i was expecting here but have not found.
someone did mention the ideas of bridges and burning, to say the truth, i only came back to see if any one had posted on this section and on this particular thread, someone asked what i was up to, i replied adding the usual negativity i feel here when on this forum
so starts the slanging and the previous comments.
as a newwbie wanting guidence and construtive thoughts etc the whole mentor thing is what is needed badly.
on three other forums i would be classed as one of the major posters and on all of them the whole mentor thing is taken very seriously as without the new blood and the continual passing of help and knowledge things start to break down.
someone mentioned earlier that a multipul question comes with mulltipul answers, where as with a mentor there is one and a why we use this one rather than the others, multiple answers to a newbie only confuses me not answers my questions, maybe people with more knowledge than me should remeber these points and why not add a few beginers stickies covering these points!!
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Pete,
The first point I would make is that you asked a very general question when you had a specific purpose in mind.
Your questions are rather like should I buy a brand new car or an older higher spec one but leaving out that you really want to use it as a builders van.
As most model boaters sail on ponds, rivers and lakes it is not surprising you got replies about this environment.
Unfortunately this was not what you required as you had a specific use in mind.
In the thread about the low revving you didn't mention any specific requirement for a bait boat.
There are none produced that I know of because they are not suitable on rivers/lakes so not produced.
I consider that if you had asked for advice for building a seagoing bait boat you would have had more focused replies and fewer so more useful.
The answers answered your question but was not of great use to you as you left out the most important information.
The advert on the bait boat you want to replicate gives quite descriptive specifications including what type of motor and radio is used.
Once again you didn't explain why you wanted an I.C. engine till your last post.
No this forum does not operate a "mentoring" system but there are lots of members who offer help by PM, email etc.
I am glad you have found what you want even though it is not on this site.
I wish you well on your project and hope that you can improve the design for your specific use.
Bob
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hedgerow pete were still willing to help if you want it.
allow me to clear something up. scale model propellers spin faster than there full size counterpart. a slow tug boat or trawler propeller will turn anything up to 5000 rpm. A fast boat i dont know say a motor torpedo boat the prop will spin up to 15000 rpm. Fast electrics can go stupid up to and beyond 40,000 rpm.
as far as what speeds you need to run at well {:-{ it will be in the thousands anyway. If you turned a 60mm diameter propeller you would need to running it between 7-10,000 rpm depending on the pitch, but as the pitch of the blades increases so does the load on the engine making it use more fuel. Either way the engine will be putting out about 2 hp.
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so it is not a bait boat it is for taking baited lines out to sea and drooping them, why didn't you say in the first place what you wanted to do, because I have never heard of a bait boat being used 500yds of the shore in rolling waves..
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www.aquacat.co.za shows the "Dinglehopper" in operation. Looks like they have sorted out all of the requirements. Perhaps the question should have been "how can I do this cheaper/better".
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get a MMB sub go out under the waves .
Peter
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Reply #6 alluded to what he was after.
Regards Ian.
The South African company selling the Hook dumper don't seem to have a problem with conventional gear.
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www.aquacat.co.za shows the "Dinglehopper" in operation. Looks like they have sorted out all of the requirements. Perhaps the question should have been "how can I do this cheaper/better".
Best bit of boating film I've ever seen. My God, I don't stand a chance with my boats. O0 {-) O0
Thanks for putting that up.
ken
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Yes Ken , i thought it was exciting to watch too. Maybe something that could be useful for ocean-going record attempts and cross Channel trips even Loch Ness runs %) It seems to be part yacht(keel) part trimaran(side sponsons) and part submarine(waterproof). Powerfull brushless motor, are the "car guys" using brushless ? How far do the R/C cars go away from the transmitter(handset) and do they get wet ? I hope Pete goes ahead and maybe we can all learn something new. Could be a new aspect to our sport/hobby , without the fishing bit, surf-bashing . Good for those close to the sea and for days when weather precludes normal boaty activities. If Pete still reads this thread can you say how you are progressing. A few hull makers here might be interested in your foam and fibreglass facilities.
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Having just come across this thread I think the main problem is that you are not bulding a 'model' boat, but you are getting 'model' boat answers. Watching the vid posted above it is obvious that some 'out of the box' thinking is needed and that can disconcert the traditionalists! Long rang radio, you could try the old Futaba M Series, power output is way higher than more modern sets ( possibly illegally so!). The set would probably need new batteries and replacing the wiring to the board as they suffer from 'black wire' problems due to their age.
Big car blower motor and a 15amp 12v gel battery should provide a few 450 yard round trips before a recharge is needed (2 hours ). Big keel or a giant fast electric self righting thing sticking out the top of the model, suitably brightly coloured would aid stability, and in the latter case, visibility at range. Bolt down submarine style hatch would preclude an air breathing engine, pity really, a big plodding petrol engine would make a great drive for something like this if you didn't have to contend with surf.
Good luck and dont loose faith with the model boating world.
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www.aquacat.co.za shows the "Dinglehopper" in operation. Looks like they have sorted out all of the requirements. Perhaps the question should have been "how can I do this cheaper/better".
Buy yourself a Conoflex Scorpion, Abu 650CT Mag Elite, some 6oz Geminis and some casting lessons :-))