Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => The "Black Arts!" ( Electrics & Electronics ) => Topic started by: Norseman on January 23, 2012, 08:52:42 pm
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Hi Lads
I've been watching a truly great thread but I have paraphrased below something said there -
'electronics such as lights, sound etc have been omitted because of the salt air and water very quickly coroding wiring to lights etc.'
Tinning was suggested as one solution but I wondered just how many ways there were around the problem and what your experiences are?
Do we have a member who sails on the Dead Sea? ;)
Dave
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I sometimes find that a row of lights on the Norsea have stopped working. The cause is the flux I used when soldering the wires and LEDs.
The flux corrodes the metal and I keep finding green staining.
Ali.
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Is that fresh or salt water sailing Ali?
(off to work now - I'll look in later when you are all snug in bed)
Dave
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No water needed.
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When all the internal wiring is completed on Hermes, I intend to 'wash down' the electrics with IPA and a small stiff brush to remove any remnants of flux, and then apply either car Ignition Sealer spray or maybe Acrylic varnish to moisture proof.
Rex
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Dave IPA is the stuff I have is the spray bottles I use to clean with if you need some
Peter
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Hi Peter
I emailed you Sunday night but maybe you missed it - nothing important.
Re this thread. Neil sort of got me interested. There's a guy who could probably build anything but
doesn't put the extras in because of where he sails and corrosion. I got to wondering just what the
options are to negate the salt. You taught me there are always several ways to do a job and there
must be many members with the same problem. I know JB from Preston sails at Fleetwood too.
So take your tug with the juice running through the exposed wires - could you do that if you had to
sail at Fleetwood in saltwater?
Regards Dave
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Apart from the universal need to get rid of corrosive flux residues, the usual idea is to keep salt water and electrical components separate. At least, the bits actually carrying electric. There used to be something in the RS catalogue called "tropicaliising laquer" which was intended to act as a moisture barrier against damp air to protect any exposed metal with a voltage potential on it. Much like Rex describes, probably the same stuff.
Any exposed metal, whether connected to the battery or not, will try to corrode in the presence of salty moisture, and will need some sort of protection.
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When all the internal wiring is completed on Hermes, I intend to 'wash down' the electrics with IPA and a small stiff brush to remove any remnants of flux, and then apply either car Ignition Sealer spray or maybe Acrylic varnish to moisture proof.
Rex
Methanol (Meths) is just as good as Iso Propyl Alcohol (if you cannot obtain it) for getting rid of flux residues, WD40 provides a good barrier against moisture for coating the bare metal surfaces afterwards. My race boats always get a liberal spraying over the electrics and engine components during the winter layup....so far no problems :-))
Regards
Scoop
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Old hat and probably unobtanium now but "Vaseline" used to be pretty effective.
Regards Ian
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Vaseline AkA Petroleum jelly is stocked by most supermarkets in the healthcare aisles.
Ned
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Hi,
In the process industry it was common to find electronic boards dipped / sprayed with a heavy lacquer, which was a devil to get off when desoldering to replace a component. On enquiring with the suppliers engineer, he said it was principly for on board ship applications and also explained that the extra plastic supports were to protect the board from the ship's propulsion vibration.
So, I would not use any lacquer based systems if you propose to repair / modify boards in the future.
Ian
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There is a type of aerosol called HPA Conformal Coating which we put on our P92 and P102 boards. This is acrylic and dries hard to waterproof the copper side of the circuit boards, but easily dissolves out of the way if you need to re-solder a component later. It's not cheap, however.
The other tip I would pass on is to ensure that you use only tinned stranded cable - the sort made from bare copper strands readily oxidizes and corrodes. O - and NEVER use a separate flux for electrical soldering (see earlier threads); you start with building in corrosion that way.
DM
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Methanol (Meths) is just as good as Iso Propyl Alcohol (if you cannot obtain it)
Meths is methylated spirit which is approx 90% Ethanol - not Methanol :-))
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Hi all, WD40 was invented by the US Air Force to prevent corrosion on the connections in ICBM's (nukes)when sitting for long periods in their silos. WD40 stands for water dispersant formula 40 which was the fortieth attempt at making something that worked. There is also a product used in the auto industry for sensor & computer connections called diaelectric grease & I know it works because I have used it many times, its main purpose is to stop resistance in the wiring by preventing corrosion, look it up on the net. Mick B.
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Meths is methylated spirit which is approx 90% Ethanol - not Methanol :-))
You are of course quite correct :-)) I was trying to point out another method of dissolving solder flux, it is much easier and cheaper to purchase Meths from an ironmongers or DIY store than it is to purchase pure Alcohol (ethanol /ethyl alcohol C2H5OH) or pure Methanol (methyl alcohol CH3OH).
Ethanol is produced/distilled from grain and is very tasty especially if labelled Glenfiddich :D
Methanol on the other hand is produced by the oxidation of Methane or the distillation of wood products, sometimes known as wood alcohol.
Methylated spirit is a mixture of ethanol (approx 90%), methanol (approx 10%), pyridine and a purple dye (these are added in an attempt to stop people drinking the stuff as methanol and pyridine are highly toxic O0). Pyridine (C5H5N) is another solvent with an obnoxious odour and is obtained from coal tar.
Apologies for any confusion caused in my earlier post :}
Regards
Scoop
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I buy this , easy to get and does not leave a resedue like "some" not all Meths can.
http://mistralni.co.uk/catalogue/product/52/IPA-Isopropyl-alcohol-Propan-2-ol-BP
or a bit cheaper
http://mistralni.co.uk/catalogue/product/80/Rubbing-Alcohol-70pct-IPA
they have hard to get items handy place and quick delivery
Peter
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I buy this , easy to get and does not leave a resedue like "some" not all Meths can.
http://mistralni.co.uk/catalogue/product/52/IPA-Isopropyl-alcohol-Propan-2-ol-BP
Wow, that's not cheap Peter :o I've got around 25L in my yellow cabinet at work.
Mark.
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Wow, that's not cheap Peter :o I've got around 25L in my yellow cabinet at work.
Mark.
well it wont be cheap if the stuff in work follows you home, but we don't have the key to your cabinet, anyway read the post I didn't say it was cheap if the alternative was to "borrow" it from work,
sometimes you feel it's a waist of time posting on this site when you get stupid remarks like this.
Peter
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Aghh!! stupid computers!
Sorry Peter,
It was meant to say "so I'll see where they're getting it from" at the end of that sentence, as they often find the more 'lower cost' suppliers.
Mark.
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http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/ppc103/ipa-cleaning-solvent/dp/SA01884?in_merch=Featured%20Products (http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/ppc103/ipa-cleaning-solvent/dp/SA01884?in_merch=Featured%20Products)
Cheapest I can find from our usual suppliers.
DM
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well it wont be cheap if the stuff in work follows you home, but we don't have the key to your cabinet, anyway read the post I didn't say it was cheap if the alternative was to "borrow" it from work,
sometimes you feel it's a waist of time posting on this site when you get stupid remarks like this.
Oh and one other thing Peter, as you're talking of stupid remarks <*< I really resent your implication that I would be stealing the stuff from work <*< <*<
Mark.
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Oh and one other thing Peter, as you're talking of stupid remarks <*< I really resent your implication that I would be stealing the stuff from work <*< <*<
Mark.
when did I say you where going to steal it ? I pay for mine so it must cost more, I pointing out where to get a product that can be hard to get ,you where trying to be clever as I doubt Mayhenmers would not have access to your Yellow cabinet :} :}
>:-o Peter >:-o
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Dave IPA is the stuff I have is the spray bottles I use to clean with if you need some
Peter
I thought IPA was a real ale?
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I thought IPA was a real ale?
A pint of this stuff would dampen down your joie de vivre, chum.
DM
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I bought 1ltr off ebay for £6.40 delivered. Here is a link to a 5ltrs on ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-ISOPROPANOL-5-LITRE-min-99-pure-/220546637586?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item33599a9f12)
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Thanks for the link Riggers
......... what's the state of your crash tender then?
Dave
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Dave,
The basic structure is done, shafts motors all fitted just need to get my finger out. Ill take a photo of it when I can get to it.
riggers
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Thanks for the link
......... what's the state of your then?
Dave
State of Riggers Mortice has set in with this - Crash Tender model - last time it saw daylight the dinnosaurs roamed the earth
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aye
john {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Aye you you know the reason why that hasn't been touched, bloody know it alls . Nuff said.
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Dare I mention the Our Lass fishing boat John ? (http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Smileys/20409_4.gif)
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Dicky
NEWS FLASH tonight at riggers house
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Oh comedians
Taxi for bluebird and dicky