Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Batteries & Chargers => Topic started by: U-33 on March 20, 2012, 08:49:28 am
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I keep hearing that I really should keep my battery packs disconnected from the esc's when the boat isn't in use, but in the Queen Mary 2 it would save an awful lot of mucking about to be able to leave them connected up. I should add that the esc (an Mtroniks Viper) has it's own on/off switch.
So, the question is..is it vitally important to disconnect the battery packs when the boat is in storage for a couple of days? We normally sail every other day, weather permitting, so the batteries are regularly used and charged.
Rich
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If they are lipo type cells then yes its wise to disconnect
As for the others not so important, but it is good practice to disconnect all batteries after use
Maybe you can wire an inline fuse on the +ve lead between the battery and esc and pull the fuse after use
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Just good old fashioned NiMhs, no lipos...2 x 7.2v 1600a/h packs wired to give me 7.2v @ 3200a/h.
(http://s7.postimage.org/lcolhlr9j/DSC00141a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lcolhlr9j/)
Rich
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Quote from Mtronics Instruction sheet
'NOTE ALWAYS DISCONNECT ESC FROM BATTERY CELLS WHEN NOT IN USE,we recommend fitting an in line fuse
in the positive wirebetween the cells and the ESC. (Usually 5A lower than the ESC's stated limit. eg.. 10A fuse for a 15A ESC)'
There you have it O0 O0 O0
Ned
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Naff.
Thanks Ned and Essex...point taken.
Rich
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Maybe you could bring the fuse through into the deck somehow making it easier to remove
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Errr, isn't it not advisable to wire these in paralised configuration?
Regards Ian.
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The ESC switch only cuts power to the control part of the box, not the power transistors. With earlier transistors, there was always a bit of leakage, modern ones are much better meaning that the battery will take several weeks rather than several hours to discharge. An in-line switch that can handle the current or as suggested previously an accessible fuse is the best idea.
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Errr, isn't it not advisable to wire these in paralised configuration?
Regards Ian.
If they are permanently connected, there is no reason not to to get the required capacity. Any potential drama only happens on connection, and that when the packs are not equally charged.
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Hi All
I would be looking at a ACTion P103 unit : - http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P103.pdf
Plus extra charge leads wired in to recharge the battery's one that a time
Timo2 :-))
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Why had no-one mentioned putting an ON/Off switch in the Positive from the battery. I do this with all my boats.
regards
ken
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It might be a bit difficult to hide a switch on Rich's model.
I think he was asking if he could get away without one.
Otherwise it's a fairly standard fit to have a switch in the
battery pos lead.
Ned
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You're right, Ned...it is difficult to hide a switch on the deck anywhere. I've been sat sitting here studying the decks as they go on, and I may have just found a place to locate a small switch, that's in either of the two stern swimming pools.
The other way I've thought of is to place a switch inside the hull, on the forward bulkhead, and activate it by either a wire hook with access via a porthole.
Rich
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Or you could use a magnet operated switch as you submariners use :-))
Barrie
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I do have a water activated switch which JR built for me...just two contacts in the hull of the ship that activate a circuit when the boat is placed in the water.
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Make sure the switch is capable of carrying the current demanded by the motors O0 O0
Ned
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Fit a 'push on -push off' switch under the superstructure and leave a hole where can poke a stick through the funnel to get to the switch.
a DPST switch would be best.
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"....double pole, single throw?"
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O0
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.
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Yep double pole switch will do the job
Dave