Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: HS93 (RIP) on April 12, 2007, 02:06:11 am
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I just thought it would be nice idea to have a section for steam Boat/boat engines to see what people are doing with there boats and to get ideas for installation's. there are not that many pictures of that type on the forum. Peter
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When I first saw threads on steam I thought this would be a bit to complex and difficult in engineering terms for a dolt like me. ::)
As well as being potentially expensive.
But looking at some of the electric threads I can see that steam is a viable option. It also has a certain character and charm of its own. And probably no more of a risk of yer boat catching fire. :D :D.
You don't even need a smoke generator.
It is something that I could seriously consider.
Keep the pictures coming please.
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Here's a couple of my own current project.
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...and a couple more.
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nice bridge....what did you make your flag locker contents with?
chromedome
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I downloaded a page of flags from the Internet, scaled them, printed them off on normal paper, painted them with matt varnish, cut them out and folded them up. Then I inserted the correct flags in the correct holes so that the visible colours would be correct.
Similarly the charts are all real charts, of the Irish Sea of course, downloaded, scaled and printed, varnished and attached to the chart table and shelf and on the rear bulkhead is a map of Europe.
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Cheers Bunker.I had quite good results cutting balloons and folding and rolling them up...looked nice in 1/32scale...ofcoarse I was not able to match colours.
chromedome
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Hi Bunkerbarge
I see you have a really nice windlass (or winch) on the fore deck.
Did you buy this or fabricate it yourself?
If you fabricated it can you say how it was achieved please?
TT
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The windlass came with the kit and is made of a number of white metal castings. You assemble it with the supplied rod, paint it up and mount it on the model. I have done a little bit of weathering experimentation with it and will be doing a bit more when it is finally secured to the ship.
I won't be doing that, or adding any detail fittings until all the structural work is finished as it is too easy to damage stuff like that during construction.
Oh, and before anyone tells me the hawse pipe shrouds are on the wrong way round, I know and they aren't fixed on!
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hi..
here is some off my steam launch
regards Bernhard
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regards Bernhard
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hi
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Fellas,
Thank you very much for those magnificent photos...makes me want to get my fingers burnt again (Only ever done one steamer before and that with lots of help). Keep em coming. I particularly like Bunkerbarges Coaster as it is very like my own, ecxcept mine is electric
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hi this launch belong to a friend off me .......
regards Bernhard
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hi.......a nice launch i did see on a webbside
regards Bernhard
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hi...a launch i did see on a webbside
regards Bernhard
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Hi Guys
Great pictures, keep them coming. Excellent thread to start HS93, I am not sure I am ready to get my fingers burnt but it is definitely a thought for the future.
Brian
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Some fabulous models there Bernhard and some very nice steam plant set ups. The weathered African Queen makes for an interesting contrast with the pristine Lady Jane.
Do you have any shots of them on the water? Steam models always come into thier own making a nice vapour cloud on a cold day.
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hi
a friend off me ,,mr colin have take this photos on a trip he whas on
regards Bernhard
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Hi..From a another forum,,in Germany
regards Bernhard
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hi......ANOTHER off my steam launch
regards Bernhard
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My hats off to all of you, there are some truely beautiful ships shown here. Awsome work! Cap
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hi......so is the Anton ready with the New Boiler From Mike
Regards Bernhard
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Hi All,
here are some pics of my Envoy near to completion just needs a tidy inside and a float in the bath for ballasting, Oh and some paint inside the engine hatch.
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Hi ,,,look great what a big job you have don there,,...i do like the usa engine to...i have 3 off them...take care not to run it over the 30.psi..and dont run it to fast,,
regards Bernhard
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Hi Bernhard,
Thanks for your comments, I have seen your Pics of your TVR1A engines somewhere in the past , I like the way you have painted them, it makes them look like different engines.
I have modified my engine slightly by adding oil cups to the crank bearings and small lubrication holes in the eccentric straps.
regards Tony (ABRAD)
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hi Tony...Thanks ..yes the b paint will have them to look more real?...great you have don that,,that whas a good ide to do...bot be carefull with the speed on them..i have to off mine send back for repair... .and be shure all this small screw are real tight to..it is a great littel looking machine...bot not reale a workhorse,,,,,,bot fore the price,,and with a littel extra work as you have don,,it cant be better.......if they one day will make them with ball bearings in that will be good,,,
regards Bernhard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CICE-XgTszA&feature=user one running
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJdS_g051WQ 1 in a boat
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Hi Bernhard,
Did you buy your engines ready built or did you buy them as a machined kits, I purchased mine direct from R A Graham as a machined kit and modified it as I assembled it.
There are some good engines about but as you say the TVR1A beats them all on value for money.
When I had assembled mine, I took it to work and left it running on compressed air in the workshop stores. The stores person was instructed to give it a squirt of oil every now and then and alter the valving, it ran like that for two days seven hours a day at 35 psi.
regards Tony
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Hi..Tony...i did by them all ready made....i have 3.. 2 cylinder--and 2 ...1 cylinder.....i think they whas so cheap ready made with hex screws in,,,and i whas afried if i lost eny of the small parts or screws i have a problem to get them again......great you use so many ahours on running it in,,,i olie the parts on all my engines every time i start them up...........bot the best engine i have is my Cheddar Proteus...
regards
Bernhard
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what boat have you got your Cheddar Proteus in , and have you any pictures of it
thanks Fredy
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Hi Fredy,,,,,,,,,,i have a 50 inch launch ...it scal be in,,,,
here is a link .. http://www.bay-com.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=49
regards Bernhard
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hi........after many ahours work.......and still a lot to do
regards Bernhard
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That is looking superb and just the sort of thing I am looking for to put a steam plant with a controllable pitch propeller in. I keep changing my mind on which engine to use but using the CPP keeps all options open. I'm just looking forward to getting a buzz out of everyone wondering how the boat can be changing speed when the engine remains turning at the same revs.
Fabulous hull though and I would love to see some more descriptions and pictures of how you put it together.
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Almost finished the Ambrakia, i.e. a few oars to carve and the odd coils of rope, barrels etc.
Got some new props from George Sitek which should give a bit more push but, that said, it wasn't exactly speedy.
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Wowwww 3 times woow,,,,,what a great first class job,,,,,,
regards Bernhard
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Thanks Bernhard,
Luckily the camera isn't that good or you would have seen the non scale faults!
Tony
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Here is some photo's of my steam powered Seguin Tug boat.
She's not finished yet but getting close and is a little dusty.
The life boat is out for repairs currently because one of our cats decided it would make a nice chew toy along with the rigging on the davits. >>:-( {-)
Regards,
Nick
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A very nice job it is as well Nick. I was eyeing that up in the Micro-Mart catalogue a few months ago but didn't realise it was that big.
It makes for a nice model with plenty of room for a steam plant though.
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Thanks Richard,
This Seguin started out as the kit offered by Midwest Products. There is another smaller Seguin kit offered by Bluejacket. I suspect the one you were looking at in the Micro-Mart catalogue was the smaller kit.
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woow great clean work you have be doing there Nick............will you have a water tank in there to...or will the boiler giv it enof runing time........
Bernhard
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Thanks Bernhard,
I did build two copper saddle tanks that were on either side of the boiler for extra water storage. The small black dots you see in the pictures on the deck near the boiler are actually covers for accessing the fillers on top of the saddle tanks. There is another set of larger covers on the deck back by the engine which was for a set of dual oil separators. The original steam plant layout worked quite well, but I remove a lot these extra tanks because I wanted to simplify the steam plant. I might add the saddle tanks again down the road but for now the run time is almost an hour at full throttle. I think if I add a gas attenuator and keep the throttle at a lower speed I can get a full hours run time or more on one boiler filling.
Cheers,
Nick
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Very beautiful boat and engine Nick! How long is the hull?
The one hour run time is impressive. How much water does the boiler hold?
And that Ambrakia boat looks very cool too. Your pictures just inspired me to continue work on mine. It's awaiting completion for quite some time now.
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Hi Kno3,
Thank you. The hull is 39 1/2 inches long with a beam of 8 3/4 inches.
The boiler holds 500ml of water.
Cheers,
Nick
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What a treat to view all the boats shown here- nick, Tony Bernard and Abrad( Tony)? I know my Nick from the Mamod forums - Hello!! those Monahan power plants are spectacular.. The warship is a site to behold...I am afraid that the Graham engines are in my price range for now- they are a cheap but decent option that at least look classic in style- and do seem to be finished off well. Plus they are almost at my back door... OK, a few states a way
Thanks to all of you for sharing those pictures of where I hope to go one day- Inspiration is sure fun to look at ! O0
greg
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How about adding a short description, engine type and bioler size etc.Makers??
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Hey,,,,,,,I have get a new gastank in my launch...and some other work
regards Bernhard
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I think I can safely say that this is easily the best steam launch I have ever come across. I love the detail, the weathering and the realism of it. Making the gas tank look like a model gas tank in itself is brilliant and only enhances the overall atmosphere of the model.
Absolutely superb, I love this model and it is a great credit to you Bernard.
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Ohh Mannny thanks....i will have like the gastank to look as a old oil drum...bot that whas not that easy...so one day ,,there will be one there can do one,,,,,thanks agin........regards Bernhard
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Absolutely spot-on Bernhard, the rivet effect on the tank really makes it, well, real!
I only wish I had the patience for such fine work.
Magic
Tony H
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Pardon my ignorance... what's this bit, what does it do and how does it work?
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hi..........thats a el water pump....it works werry wel...so sun there not is enof water in the boiler it start to work,,,,and in the front of the launch there is a 1 liter water tank,,,under the ancher,,so all in 1,6 liter it can be working 1 ahour with aut a break,,,and stil oil back,,,,,,,you can se it work here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=85bb7FQERUo and here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hHp7e5fzjk&feature=related
regards Bernhard
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hey,,,,,,,,,, a Friend of me,,have build this,,,can be on the water for 45 minuts ,,,he have used it for many years,,,,,,,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owCKmt1neo0
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Here is my old beastie
unfotunately i cannot find any piccies where i showed the motor and as i have sold it i cannot take any more. it was a lot of fun but too heavy for me and my bad back 25 kilos was the running weight she was 1.5 metres long and had 5 divers weights strapped inside for ballast
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee84/steamboatbob/pilatalmostthere.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee84/steamboatbob/PilatFinished.jpg)
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steamboatbob any chance of a picture of the steam plant.
Proteus
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unfortunately no as i have sold it to a guy around 4 months ago and i cannot find any photo's of the plant it was a homebuilt one from my dads workshop twin piston single boiler if that is any help
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Hi guy's
Here are a few images of my current long term build on HMS Inflexible
She is powered by two modified Tr1a's a custom built John Hemmens boiler and gas attenuator, home made water feedpump and level control.
Ian
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That's a lot of engineering crammed into a small space!!! Fantastic job though and she looks superb.
Can you tell us a bit more about the level control you use and a basic description of everything you have there? Even the chain drive looks a work of art!
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Thankyou very much Bunkerbarge,
I will try to give you some more techy info,
The model is not that small, she is 44" long x 9 1/2" beam.
Aluminium heatshielding foil and butchered soldering mats form the heat reflective silver surfaces you might see in the piccies, not really needed but i thought it was a good idea as the models machinery will be completely enclosed.
Ventilation is from eight PC cooling fans driven off the 12v power supply for control system and pump etc, the cowl vents at the forward half pull cold fresh air into the boiler space and four cowl vents at the stern exhaust the hot/warm air.....resulting in a scale model form of forced draught.....kind of anyway it works for me.
The two TVR1 A's are independently controlled through the long brass shafts at the top of the engines, these are linked via chain and sprockets and clevis linkages to the reversing levers.
Steam regulation is independently controlled through the long chain and sprockets nearest the hull sides to two ACS steam regulators, which are bolted to a link plate which supports the rear funnel/stack one per engine.
The water pump is a home built small bore long stroke ram pump driven off a 12v 50-1 reduction geared motor through an adjustable aluminium eccentric cam.
Both engines can be removed quickly as one unit by disconnecting reversing links and steam/exhaust pipes, and undoing two socket cap bolts lifting out the sludge tray and engines in one unit.
Lubrication is from a single large displacement lubricator in the main steam line, and steam oil separation is done in two stages both engines exhaust into the large condenser drum between the shafts/couplings. Then a single large bore steam/exhaust pipe feeds out to the rear funnel, which has a separate drip trap built into the base and an overflow tank for any sludge/water.
This results in a very clean running steam model.......thankfully as the model is going to have about 14 ships boats all above/around the engine room rear super structure.
As for the water level control that is a secret at the moment, sorry....as this and a gas valve and temp regulation monitoring system will soon be available commercially resulting from my tinkering........it does work believe me, With this system i can get about an hours worth of reliable steaming without any worries.
I hope i have answered some of your questions?
Cheers
Ian
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Hi, impressive steam plant! The chains are used for turning the steam valves, one for each engine?
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Yes and no, The long chain runs down each side of the hull is to control the regulators and the lateral ones aft control the reversing linkages.
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Ian, that is some set up. great engineering... The flat link chain is interesting. Do you have a shot of the boat with the superstructure in place......? I like those older style warships... there is a very nice one in my boat club..USS Oregon... The gun turrets sure seem similar..
Once again - impressive power plant planning and execution! :-))
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The flat link chain stirred something in the "leetle brain cells"! It looks very like how I remember meccano chain many years ago when I was a lad.
Guy
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Hi Guy,
Your memory serves you very well indeed that is exactly what is used for the chain linkages.
Every meccano dealer near where i live runs a mile when they see me.........they don't like me buying all their stock of sprockets,gears and chain!!!!
Regards
Ian
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Hi Mo,
I am working on the superstructure at the moment, all 0.50mm brass which is mainly bolted together with 16BA nuts and bolts, but some sections are silver soldered where it is quicker.
Sorry no pic's as yet but once i get the basic structure completed i will post it here.
The superstructure is quite awkward, there are lots of angle changes, cut outs for doors,scuttles and the like. Up to now it has taken about 4 months of spare time just to mark and cut all the shapes out, bend bolting flanges etc....I like working with metal but some of the shapes are a pain in the a*%e to cut out without distorting the finished plate.
Cheers
Ian
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All in good time- we can wait for a grand ship to take shape- if the top is any thing like what you have done below deck - I will savor the waiting-- good luck Ian
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This is the progress so far on my first attempt at an engineering project.
Built from solid with a great deal of help from a club member it is the Borderer twin cylinder marine engine designed by John P Bertinat.
The ultimate aim is to have it installed in an open launch.
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Thats a very nice piece of work MCR, looking at the engine, I'm guessing you will be having reversing gear as you have twin eccentrics fitted.
Whats the bore and stroke ?
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The bore is 5/8th and a 9/16th stroke.
I am hoping that it will have the power to push along a 48" open launch the design has very clean lines so I hope it will be OK.
And yes it will have reversing gear.
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The bore is 5/8th and a 9/16th stroke.
I am hoping that it will have the power to push along a 48" open launch the design has very clean lines so I hope it will be OK.
And yes it will have reversing gear.
I'm sure it will be fine. At least, I hope so as my ex-ebay twin is a little smaller and destined for the wideawake (52 x 12). BTW intetested to see that you're building Borderer from bar stock rather than using the Reeves casting set. I have a Marcher (smaller version of Borderer) part finished but I b****ed the cylindrr block while drilling the steam passages so it's been put away for now :((
Cheers
Guy
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This is the progress so far on my first attempt at an engineering project.
Built from solid with a great deal of help from a club member it is the Borderer twin cylinder marine engine designed by John P Bertinat.
The ultimate aim is to have it installed in an open launch.
Looks very nice and clean. What bore & stroke does it have?
Why don't you make a topic to show the construction progress?
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Progress update
Steam chests in place, lagging done, covers produced but still needs to be fixed in place.
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MCR- Looks great!! Can't wait to see it running!
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Hi all & a question to Ian ......from October 25/08 .....HMS Inflexible......& a most impressive & complex machinary posting :-))
I see the two ACS steam regulators....[I have a single ACS RCREG1] but was wondering why they are mounted at that 15 degree offset...just a space limitation back to the deck height?
regards Derek
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Hello Derek,
The ACS regulators are mounted this way to provide extra space for the two gun turret rotation mechanisms.
I have had to think quite a bit about the layout of the various mechanisms, hence the use of chain control linkages etc to keep all the electronics away from the steam equipment.
The regulators are there to give shut off and finer control over each individual engine as the main pressure control is through a servo controlled steam valve from the boiler, which is also chain driven.
I hope this answers you question
Regards
Ian
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Hi all - another question.....HMS Inflexible 25/08.....for Ian.......
I see the horizontal brass lay shafts that provide the rotary movement to each engine throttle/reversing gear linkage & understand this....but you also have the independent variable steam control to each engine via the ACS regulators
Again I understand this but not how you control the mixing or proportional functions via R/C... <*<
....Derek
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Hi all...a question for Bunkerbarge from 19.12.04........as per the .jpg attachment I see you used a gauge for the gas tank pressure.....but in later snaps the gauge is replaced with a regulator
So was the gauge functional....to read say 10 Bar???
I also acknowledge this same question was asked some few weeks ago ....... <*<...Derek
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Derek,
The two engines are fed steam from the same boiler, the steam line is split to feed the two ACS regulators independently, then to each engine which has separate reversing control.
Using the rudder and the regulators when making a turn to port the inboard engine has its steam pressure reduced or stopped, whilst the outboard engine is given full ahead pressure, to increase the tightness of the turn the inboard engine is thrown into reverse and steam is then fed back into the engine through the regulator, giving reverse thrust.
This i admit is a slightly complicated control system but i need 6 proportional functions to achieve this maneuver, 1 for main steam pressure, 2 for independent regulator control, 2 for engine reversing gear and 1 for rudder control.
The system works well and when used to it's quirkiness is very quick and responsive nearly as good as electric motor control.
Ian
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Hi all.....well Ian says ...
The system works well and when used to it's quirkiness is very quick and responsive nearly as good as electric motor control.....
My call on this is different...in that any joe blow can control the electrics....but it certainly requires engineering understanding to get the electronics & mechanics to control the steam
Well done Ian.......Derek............................ O0
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Derek,
The two engines are fed steam from the same boiler, the steam line is split to feed the two ACS regulators independently, then to each engine which has separate reversing control.
Using the rudder and the regulators when making a turn to port the inboard engine has its steam pressure reduced or stopped, whilst the outboard engine is given full ahead pressure, to increase the tightness of the turn the inboard engine is thrown into reverse and steam is then fed back into the engine through the regulator, giving reverse thrust.
This i admit is a slightly complicated control system but i need 6 proportional functions to achieve this maneuver, 1 for main steam pressure, 2 for independent regulator control, 2 for engine reversing gear and 1 for rudder control.
The system works well and when used to it's quirkiness is very quick and responsive nearly as good as electric motor control.
Proteus,
Ian
If you had twp of the units cheddar sold for it's gemmini and Proteus engines you could have used a standard mixer and run the whole lot of ONE channel.
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Proteus
that is very true, but the tvr1a's require a two channel set up per engine anyway so a minimum of four servo's are required to give trouble free reliable service.
Unlike the gemini and proteus engines which had a mixer valve for directional and speed control
I could never afford the expensive cheddar steam engines so went down the Graham industry engine route with mods to the bearings and valve gear and some material changes, just to beef them up for higher pressure and speed use.
I would love to do away with the hackworth reversing linkages and change to piston valves and a single channel control, i will do this in time when the engines require some work on them.
Ian
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Hi Ian,
What exactly did you modify on the Graham engines and why?
Instead of removing the valve and valve gear of the Grahams (which would be a pity, that's their interesting feature) better get a couple of oscillators for Regner or another maker. They are simple, reliable and can be run with a single servo.
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Hi kno3,
I have enjoyed your thread on the construction of your engine, you will enjoy it it's great little busy engine to watch running.
The first thing i changed was to do away with the soft brass crankshaft bearing blocks and replace them with sealed stainless steel ball races held in duraliminium blocks bolted down onto the base plate.
Recently I replaced all the aluminium link bars for the valve gear with home made brass components also the horrible aluminium eccentric straps for the valve gear, these have worn quite badly even though i made wick type drip feed oilers from the start of the project for lubrication.
My point about the valve gear was to try and explain to Proteus that these engines operate differently to say the cheddar type, hence the required use of x number of functions, I love the look of these engines working as a pair with the exposed linkages etc and would only consider altering the slide valve to a piston valve to improve long running reliability issues.
One thing i would watch out for is the chemically welded(glued) joints on the slide valve spindles and reversing gear female slides comming apart, this happened to me and i drilled and pinned these joints prior to construction of both engines.
Ian
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hi..Ian..........eny close up photos of what you did to your engines,,,,,i will like to see that,,,good ide with the ball bearings...
Bernhard
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Hi Bernhard,
I am in the process of moving house at the moment so Inflexible is boxed awaiting her new home.....
I will post some photo's when i get her out again at the end of jan 2009 ok?
Regards
Ian
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Ian, some close-up pictures of your engines would be great!
Good luck with your moving.
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Thanks for the the wishes
Xmas and moving bad timing but it must be done !!
Seasons greetings and the best for the coming year to all fellow steam nuts !!
Regards
Ian
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Proteus
that is very true, but the tvr1a's require a two channel set up per engine anyway so a minimum of four servo's are required to give trouble free reliable service.
Unlike the gemini and proteus engines which had a mixer valve for directional and speed control
Ian
Yes and so did the cheddar unit , It combined two servoes and They can happily used with a Graham industry engine , and I have in the past.I think Stuart are making them again but they are not on there site, and I have had two of ebay in the past because people don't know what they are, none of the bigger engines had a" mixer valve"
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Sorry Proteus,
I mis understood you there i think !!
I was not aware of such a unit and thought you meant something mechanical rather than electronic
Regards
Ian
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Hi all...a question for Bunkerbarge from 19.12.04........as per the .jpg attachment I see you used a gauge for the gas tank pressure.....but in later snaps the gauge is replaced with a regulator
So was the gauge functional....to read say 10 Bar???
I also acknowledge this same question was asked some few weeks ago ....... <*<...Derek
Sorry for the delay in replying Derek.
The pressure gauge I find is a very effective indication of what is going on in the gas tank. Obviously as long as there is liquid in the tank the pressure should always remain at the saturation vapour pressure for the gas and when the liquid is gone the pressure will quickly drop off. The svp of a 70-30 butane/propane mix at 21 deg C is about 45 psi or about 3 bar.
The real benefit however is seeing how much the pressure is dropping off with prolonged use due to the effects of the cooling as the gas evaporates. You will actually see the gas pressure start to drop off almost as soon as you start to use it, which is why I raise steam pressure on the bank from an external tank. There are then two regulating valves in the discharge line, the first to control the pressure as the heat shunt from the seprator tank warms the tank and the second to regulate the flow depending on boiler pressure.
I haven't actually steamed it yet with both these valves and the heat shunt in operation so the results of that remain to be seen. The pressure gauge though is still there and I will probably leave it there anyway to give me an idea of what is happening.
There is also the danger of the heat shunt causing too much condensation as it cools the exhaust too much so I still have a bit of experimenting to do before i'm happy with it all. I might actually cut the heat shunt into transverse sections and put on as many as is required for the ambient conditions.
I'm trying to finish the model though before I get completely distracted by power plant experiments again!!
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Hi all.......thanks Bunkerbarge..........things are a little different on each side of the equator {-)
Many European model vessels display steam discharge as heating coils around the gas tanks to maintain gas temperature
Some time ago in Paddleducks.......we did some P1V1/T1 = P2V2/T2 gas calcs & had great racious debate >>:-( ;D ..........
Sandy Cambell suggested :o that in OZ.......filling a 70/30 tank @ 21 degrees C then exposing the tank in an open vessel to a 40 degrees C ambient direct sunlight radiation would require a pressure gauge of 10 Bar on the discharge side of the tank....prior to the regulator
regards Derek
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As usual though nothing is quite so straightforward!
Exposed to 40 deg maybe but what temperature is the gas? You have to take into acount the cooling effect of it evaporating as well as the fact that it will take time to heat up the liquid inside the tank.
Taking the extreem case where you put the boat in the water and let the sun heat up the entitre contents of the tank to 40 deg you will still only achieve a pressure of about 85 psi, which is still less than 6 bar.
I'll let you take that to the Paddleduck debate though!!
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Hi all....mmmmmmmm Bunkerbarge........your nominations are totally in line with that offerd by Sandy Campell...the premise offered was that if the delta P was to 6.6 Bar....then using the DIN standard recommendation for maxinium WP for pressure gauges to be 0.6 of FSD =~~~~~~ then the recommended 10 Bar scale gauge is line ball with the requirement........................Derek O0
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Certainly an interesting thought Derick and I can't fault the logic however I would question the situation.
What you are doing is designing something to accomodate the worst case scenario, which from a safety aspect, cannot be argued, however you are shooting yourself in the foot as regards the use of the gauge. You want the gauge to spend most of it's life at about 50% of full scale deflection, giving you the best accuracy and the most usefull range of operation. If you design the gauge to accomodate such an extreme then it is going to spend most of it's life at the very low end of its range giving you very little deflection for a change in pressure and greatly reducing its value and accuracy.
How far do you want to take it though. Do you go back through historical records and find the maximum recorded temperature for a given location? If you want to operate your model in another place do you check the maximum recorded temperatures there as well and change the pressure gauge?
I want a gauge that operates most of it's time at 50% deflection and, for my own climate, a 100 psi FSD gauge is fine. If however I was that worried about operating in extremes situations then perhaps a cock in the gauge line could be used to protect the gauge.
The perfect solution would, of course, be a logarithmic scale gauge, but I don't think we are ever likely to see one of those in a modelling scenario and if we did it would probably cost more than the rest of the plant!!
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Little more progress made,
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i have recently started to convert my electric powered tug from electric to steam. I originally wanted to have it steam powered, but the budget wouldn't stretch to it.
I have been collecting parts for some & I am able to start now. First job was to remove the old propulsion system & fit mounting plates for the steam plant.
Glenn
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Nice, looks like a pretty big boat. Why don't you make a separate thread for the steam engine installation?
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Knoby....as suggested by kno3....this would be a great new thread :-))
The only comment I could make is......don't repeat my errors >:-o
I had three individual mounting plates for my steam components ...which = thirteen tubes of 1/8" or 5/32"....& yes very short lengths with short bend radii
After 16 months I gave up as steam engine tubes must only horizontal or straight up or down :police:
I invested in one new mounting plate & must demolish some deck sections to install the plate ......jpg attached......Dererk
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that is superb Derek, I love that little diagonal engine, I'd love one of those. I love that Niggel lubricator too - in fact every part of that plant is a little gem. A darker baseplate would set them off properly.
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Derek, I have seen every now and then pix of your paddlesteamer project in various topics, but is there a dedicated topic for it? I couldn't find it...
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thats a g8 looking boat Derick. hope mine looks half as good. T hanks for the advice on the pipes, I'm only having 2 plates & i think i can keep the steam pipes fairly simple.
however its the water pump feed & return that seems to be getting complicated. i want to use a cheddar ABC system & its not easy fitting it in. I admire your courage to rip off the old deck & re make it, I'm not sure i will be that brave
Cheers Glenn
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OK thanks Glenn....but never be fooled........there will always be more tubes to bend .....Derek....now if I could just delete this duplication .jpg <*<
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Way cool!
Now could you please explain what those things between the engine and boiler are (not the condenser)?
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kno3....they are just simple things,,,,
1) an ACS steam regulator....
2) a manifold with isolation valve to enable the lubricator steam blow down.....Derek
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Hey,,,,,,,I have get a new gastank in my launch...and some other work
regards Bernhard
Bernhard: this comment has been posted a lot by others but it is worth saying again, your models are brilliant!!! Just beautiful.