Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: TailUK on June 19, 2012, 09:54:45 am
-
I ran across these while looking for something else. They're designed for a Sci-Fi model but look as if they'ed fit right in on a trawler or tug. Available in 1:35th scale they could become available in 1:24th scale too.
http://www.scalemodelnews.com/2012/04/now-taking-orders-steampunk-figures.html#more
-
(http://industriamechanika.com/blog/wp-content/gallery/cache/586__420xfloat=_deckhandsannouncement_1.jpg)
The one one the right looks a bit like Josh Harris from deadliest catch
-
The guy with the mop reminds me of a guy I used to work with. I think everyone must have worked with someone like that, LOL.
-
He's had that mop for 17 years and just kept it well maintained. !0 new handles and 20 new heads... %% %%
-
Found this thread while looking for something else and thought I would update it
I have the deckhands set now and they are very very well moulded. When I get to putting them together Ill post some pics
by the way if you are looking for something a little different then there's some interesting stuff on here:-
http://industriamechanika.com/blog/
Just pre ordered on of these as well :embarrassed:
http://industriamechanika.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=25
-
Just pre ordered on of these as well :embarrassed:
http://industriamechanika.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=25
Can't wait to see that with a full static diving system!
-
How do there get such fantastic detail into their models?!?!?
-
I know, they are top quality, but then again quality comes at a price! some of the prices for the kits are shocking!
-
I was talking about the can of soup! {-) :P
-
I was talking about the can of soup! {-) :P
I'll get me coat
-
wonder if theres any horse in that? it might SAY chicken,but we now know different!
-
Can't wait to see that with a full static diving system!
Ill do my best!
-
i got my set of deckhands last week and just finished painting them up tonight. Seconding Essex' recommendation, they are fantastic and full of character, and you shouldn't notice the slight scale difference putting the 1/35th dudes on a 1/32nd model.
I'd have photos ready to go but i have to put the dullcote on them first.
-
Here, managed to get this guy sprayed:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/Tug%20Build%20number%202/P1000194_zps8df8690c.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/Tug%20Build%20number%202/P1000197_zpsc199f54b.jpg)
-
amazing detail....just amazing. :-))
-
WOW!
You certainly have done a nice job on that now I have many questions....
First off what paints did you use?
Actaually on second thoughts, Is there any chance you could do a "How to" on the next one with pics?
-
I've already finished them, sadly, but I can certainly cook up a step by step process if it would help. Might have another figure lying around to illustrate it.
I used acrylic paints and inks from several brands, standard hobby stuff. :)
-
WOW!
You certainly have done a nice job on that now I have many questions....
First off what paints did you use?
Actaually on second thoughts, Is there any chance you could do a "How to" on the next one with pics?
i agree a tutorial would be great !
-
How many mm tall are the figures in 1:35 scale?
I ask because I have a couple of 40mm figures that came with an old Vliestroom (ship is 1:40)
I can't find 1:40 crew anywhere ... So far anyway :-)
Dave
-
1/35th is about 8.5 mm to the foot, so a human figure would average about 51 mm.
-
She'd work well on a 1/32nd scale tug.
(http://industriamechanika.com/shop/images/medium/Sasha32_MED.jpg)
O0
...health and safety might have something to say, tho'.
Andy
-
I have Sacha in 1:24 scale awaiting delivery.... building a diorama containing Sacha,
Have one of these for put her to live in
(http://www.plazajapan.com/product_images/a/748/1__06745_zoom.jpg)
Along with a '65 Shelby mustang model
-
Okay, so I couldn't find an unpainted figure to take photos of, but I did find a clip-art picture of Thom Yorke to show the process on, because a model is basically a three-dimensional colouring book. In fact the basic aim is the same in both cases: to create and exaggerate the sense of depth so that all the features are discernible.
Caveat: I'm not a serious figure painter, nor do I follow their recommendations to the letter. If someone else says I'm doing something wrong, you should probably listen to them.
To start, as I said before I use acrylics. There is no best/worst type of paint to use, it's whatever you prefer. Enamels like Testors and Humbrol have the advantage of being 'blendable' because they are slow drying, but you will need to use an appropriate solvent instead of water to thin and clean your brushes. It is possible to put acrylics over enamels or vice versa as long as you allow the bottom layer to dry completely. You can use oil washes over acrylics or acrylic inks over oil if you follow this rule.
Pretend this is an assembled model:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/3371036849_cda6a6baea_zps190ff2f6.jpg)
First thing we do is look at the figure and see which parts are the most recessed and which parts stick out the most. It's easier to paint raised details, so we'll start with the recessed stuff. That way we can be messy and cover things completely and then have an easier time painting the top layers. In this case, the skin is the lowest layer, with the shirt, jacket and hair all on top of it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at41917PM_zps79830ec6.png)
I always prime my figures to make sure that the brushed layers of paint adhere well and to provide a uniform base colour that helps you see if you've missed spots. The three most popular colours are brown, black and white. You can spray it with an airbrush or use a spraycan; it doesn't need to be special primer, just make sure it goes on thinly and doesn't fill in any details. For my actual figures, I airbrushed Tamiya black acrylic because it has good 'bite' and doesn't rub off as I'm handling the figures
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at42139PM_zps6f18b247.png)
We start with the skin, no need to be very accurate on the first few blocks of colour. Depending on the particular tin of paint, you may need to thin it a bit to get it to go on nice and smooth. Not as much as when you're airbrushing, though! Paint that's too runny won't stick and will fill in the lowest recesses only. Even within the same brand, different colours come out of the pot differently, so you'll have to experiment a bit. I usually just dip my brush in paint, smear a big drop on some plastic surface then rinse it off, dampen it with clean thinner and mix that with the paint until i see it flowing nicely and still providing good coverage
more to follow in another post!
-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at42529PM_zps86f27191.png)
Here I have all the colours neatly blocked in, I call this the 'flats' stage. This is where a lot of pre-painted figures stop, and you see that without the dark lines in the drawing it would be very blurry and lack detail. On the figure, the 3D edges and hollows take the place of the lines in 'defining' things, but they need a little help at such a small scale. Note that all the flat colours are significantly darker than what I want the 'final' colours to look like. You can mix your base colours to make them darker, but DO NOT mix in black. Black makes things muddy, white bleaches them. For something like skin colour, mixing in a bit of darker brown or even purple would be best. It helps to be neat at this stage because after this, we don't need to take our brush anywhere near those scary regions where two colours are next to each other. Take your time and save the xxxtra-large coffee for after. :p
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at43010PM_zpsc0a52c10.png)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at43443PM_zpsf1158172.png)
The next two stages are interchangeable, and indeed you may want to go back and forth in trying to get the best results. I apply a wash to the various areas of the model, either before or after i have painted the highest spots of each colour with a lighter shade of the base colour. For clothing it's okay to use a dark brown or black wash, for the skin i usually go with brown. A 'wash' is basically very thin paint that does what we previously said was bad: runs into all the little nooks and crannies and stays there. In this case it goes into the crease of the lips, the eye sockets, ears, cheek dimples, etc and into the folds and wrinkles of the clothing. You can buy pre-mixed washes from several companies, you can make your own, or you can copy me and use artist's inks. When putting on the highlights, notice that I cover as little area as i can: just the edges of clothing folds, the nose, cheeks, chin if it sticks out and the forehead. At this point it'll look a bit extreme, but we'll tone it down in the next step.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at43841PM_zps6d8dac5f.png)
Now we take our highlight colours, thin them down, and blend the extreme highlights into the base colour. Don't paint entirely over the base colour, but leave it in the darkest, deepest areas as shadows. At this point you'll have, from brightest to darkest, highlight, blended midtone, base colour, base colour + wash in the crevices. Blending is very easy with enamels and oils because they take so long to dry.
-
At this stage you are almost done, if you want to be a MR FANCY PANTS OOOH LA LA you can go and add in a further, brighter highlight or a very dark, localized wash or anything else you may wish to really exaggerate the details. Models usually don't have much in the way of hair details so I leave that area flat. I carefully add in belt buckles, buttons and other tiny details now. I should mention at this point that all I used on my figures was a small flat brush about 4mm wide for the flat colours and a fine 'iner' brush for the details, highlights, and fine-tuning the wash. Nothing fancy, just plain synthetic bristle brushes from the local craft store.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/DestructorBot/painting%20tutorial/Screenshot2013-02-18at43951PM_zpse3c0da2c.png)
Eyes are a bit tricky, for this we'll use the 'liner' brush and a .005 black technical pen. One of the reasons i mentioned putting a nice dark wash in the hollows of the eye sockets is that it acts as a sort of outer defining colour. I put a tiny drop of pure white paint on the tip of the liner brush, not thinned as I don't want it to run, and then very carefully drop it into the eye location. Less is more, as a large blob will translate into surprised saucer eyes. Once that has dried, I carefully put in the pupils with the technical pen. It's often easier to put them on one side of both eyes and have the person looking off to the side than it is to try and center both of them (otherwise they look crosseyed, which hey, might be a good look in some cases).
And that's basically it! Having a large selection of paints hanging around means I often use two or three different layers of highlights, but this is pretty much what I do every time i go to paint a figure. The pros go into exhaustive detail because that is their whole hobby, but for us, we just want something that looks nice while 'crewing' our boats. If anybody has any further questions I'd be happy to answer them, if I can.