Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Sir Albert on June 27, 2012, 07:53:40 pm
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Not been able to get for a while due to work commitments and the waiting of parts (which have now arrived). But I was gong to get on tonight but I have just found out I have a major issue which I don't know how to get over, it may mean getting another hull and starting over . the beam at the hanger door should be 5 1/8 according to the plans I have but the actual hull beam is 4 3/8 a whole 6/8 out. The beam at the front of the bridge should be 5 3/8 and is 5 2/8. >>:-(
When I place the rear superstructure on the deck I have approximately 3mm either side and it looks absolutely cack as the raised deck that the life rafts and skynet sit on over hang the ship. Ive tried to use some timber to act at stretchers but it just makes the Hull bulge at that given point. I could make the rear hanger narrower but that will throw the scale out and have a knock on effect with the rear sea dart radar dome housing and the rear of the foreward super structure.
Anyone got any ideas on what I can do?
>>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-(
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Is the length correct?
The width in the advert is 5 1/8 or 5 1/4 inch
Bob
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hi ya Paul
its not uncommon for fibreglass mouldings to move about a bit - especially if they have been pulled from the moulds too soon.
As it happens, long thin mouldings, such as you have in the Type 42 hull, the sides tend to pull in on themselves when they are still 'green' i,e,. when the moulding is pretty soft/not cured properly
- short fat mouldings do the opposite - the sides go outwards - if you have a large flattened area - you sometimes find that you get a hump in the middle when the actual moulding cures off. In your case, if it were me - I would put bracing inside the hull - say 1/4 inch square timber - along the inside of the complete hull & when this bracing has bonded in properly and dried - put tie bars between - made from the same material. Using large - either sash clamps or g clamps to pull the hull into the correct dimensions or push the hull out whichever the case may be.
aye
john
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Cheers,
I did think of doing what you suggest but I didnt want to force it as the hull is rigid and I heard a lot of "creaking and groaning" and got scared.
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It might not creak so much if you warm up the hull. This can either be done with hot water or a hot air blower.
cheers
ken
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Hi ya Paul
That is why I suggested putting supports along the length of the hull on the inside, so that when you put the bracings in across the hull, it helps avoid the 'bulging affect' in that area. As Tug Kenny has suggested, warming the hull up with a hair dryer (but not so hot that the gellcoat starts to bubble and smoke) :(( will aid the movement of the hull into its correct shape - dont forget when you fit the deck on as well, this too will help pull the hull into the correct shape.
Do you also have mouldings for the bridge superstructure and funnel?
why aye
john
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Hi ya Paul
That is why I suggested putting supports along the length of the hull on the inside, so that when you put the bracings in across the hull, it helps avoid the 'bulging affect' in that area. As Tug Kenny has suggested, warming the hull up with a hair dryer (but not so hot that the gellcoat starts to bubble and smoke) :(( will aid the movement of the hull into its correct shape - dont forget when you fit the deck on as well, this too will help pull the hull into the correct shape.
Do you also have mouldings for the bridge superstructure and funnel?
why aye
john
I do have a resin funnel but I have yet to work out the best way to build the bridge superstructure
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You mention the word Deck. Is this fitted or just placed in position.
A picture would be great if you could manage it.
ken
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Is the length correct?
The width in the advert is 5 1/8 or 5 1/4 inch
Bob
The length is spot on. The other thing is the sea dart launcher and 4.5" gun look too big for the scale, I guess when its all built it will look OK.
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You mention the word Deck. Is this fitted or just placed in position.
A picture would be great if you could manage it.
ken
I cut the deck planed, shaped and placed it to fit the hull shape then built the hanger, thats when I found out that it wasnt the correct width. But no the deck is not fixed just as well really as I will have to build another one, I will post a picture tomorrow.
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Well at least you have a shape that you can expand the hull too, so we know how much bending will be needed.
Await your pictures with interest
ken
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Paul hi ya there
The main superstructure is basically an oblong box - and is pretty straightforward to make. The most difficult part is the slight curve on the front end of the superstructure. Working out the bridge angles looks difficult, but once you have studied the plan and a few photographs - it soon becomes apparent to you as to how it goes together. I am posting a link to the York build which I did. Although this is the stretched version and yours is the batch 1 short version; the superstructures are basically the same.
As far as the sea dart and the gun looking too big - this could be because with it being a shortened version, everything looks crowded on the front end of the vessel - but it is supposed to look that. This is one of the reasons that they came out with batches 2 and 3 longer versions - better sea keeping and soforth.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=15073.45
aye
john
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Well at least you have a shape that you can expand the hull too, so we know how much bending will be needed.
Await your pictures with interest
ken
Not quite its the same shape and measuremens of the deformed hull :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
Schoolboy error!
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Paul hi ya there
The main superstructure is basically an oblong box - and is pretty straightforward to make. The most difficult part is the slight curve on the front end of the superstructure. Working out the bridge angles looks difficult, but once you have studied the plan and a few photographs - it soon becomes apparent to you as to how it goes together. I am posting a link to the York build which I did. Although this is the stretched version and yours is the batch 1 short version; the superstructures are basically the same.
As far as the sea dart and the gun looking too big - this could be because with it being a shortened version, everything looks crowded on the front end of the vessel - but it is supposed to look that. This is one of the reasons that they came out with batches 2 and 3 longer versions - better sea keeping and soforth.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=15073.45
aye
john
Cheers, thanks a lot.
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Warming the hull is extremely effective, but you need to get a alot fo heat into it (A hairdryer wont do it). You really need a hot air paint stripper on its lowest setting.
When I did my Huntsman I laid the inner frames on the bench warmed the hull fow quite sometime until it was almost too hot to touch. This softened it sufficently that I could then push the hull down over the frames. I then strapped the hull down over the frames with ratchet straps and left to cool overnight.
Worked well enough for me... tho its still not perfect
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What's the point in buying a hull/semi kit that needs all that work and effort to get it into shape.
Not to mention you could also ruin the hull.
Surely the hull should be replaced.
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What's the point in buying a hull/semi kit that needs all that work and effort to get it into shape.
Not to mention you could also ruin the hull.
Surely the hull should be replaced.
In my case the Huntsman kit was considerably cheaper than new
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What's the point in buying a hull/semi kit that needs all that work and effort to get it into shape.
Not to mention you could also ruin the hull.
Surely the hull should be replaced.
Thast was my thought, but its too much effort to remove all of the Running gear, motors, esc and I have fairly well completed the quarter deck so it would mean buying new fittings. I guess it was my fault for not checking sooner.
One question which may seem stupid to the experianced boat builder, do I warm the inside of the hull or the outside?
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If you can get away with just one side that would be a miracle.
{-) {-) {-) {-)
Seriously though, Sir Albert, the whole hull will conduct the same temperature so it doesn't matter whether you fill it with boiling water or blow hot air on the outside. (or both)
Start gently and increase the temperature until you get a movement. (of the boating kind !!) Don't overdo it though.
Where's the pictures ?
cheers
ken
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If you can get away with just one side that would be a miracle.
{-) {-) {-) {-)
Seriously though, Sir Albert, the whole hull will conduct the same temperature so it doesn't matter whether you fill it with boiling water or blow hot air on the outside. (or both)
Start gently and increase the temperature until you get a movement. (of the boating kind !!) Don't overdo it though.
Where's the pictures ?
cheers
ken
Just finished and I am about to upload the pictures, if you look through squinted eyes it doesnt look too bad :}
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well here are the pictures it the 1st one yuo can see the beam supports then the otehrs will show the old top deck and you can see how much it was out.
(http://s17.postimage.org/j33d7zttn/SAM_0720.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/j33d7zttn/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/6pqj13457/SAM_0721.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6pqj13457/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/b09saeym3/SAM_0722.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b09saeym3/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/bguzwumd7/SAM_0723.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bguzwumd7/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/90t6j04aj/SAM_0724.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/90t6j04aj/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/67zyyz3y3/SAM_0725.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/67zyyz3y3/)
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Looks like something I've built. {-)
The hull top looks to me as if it's expanded. If you're sure the deck is correct, then I would clamp the sides of the hull up to the deck using thick wood pieces on the outside of the hull after filling the boat with hot water. leave overnight an pray.
ken
ps ............
I've just noticed you've got cross members in the hull. These will have to be removed or else you won't be squeezing the sides together. %)
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Albert,
Is there another joint/pivot connection, to the rudder linkages under the stern cross beam.
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Looks like something I've built. {-)
The hull top looks to me as if it's expanded. If you're sure the deck is correct, then I would clamp the sides of the hull up to the deck using thick wood pieces on the outside of the hull after filling the boat with hot water. leave overnight an pray.
ken
ps ............
I've just noticed you've got cross members in the hull. These will have to be removed or else you won't be squeezing the sides together. %)
I cut the deck by drawing around the hull, not the plan, hence the school boy error comment I posted. The cross members were put in the stretch the hull to the correct dimension. I can now buy some more ply and take the measurements from the plan and re fit the new deck to kit the hull then all should be good
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Albert,
Is there another joint/pivot connection, to the rudder linkages under the stern cross beam.
No there isnt, I have used sring quick links a nd M2 threaded rods from the rudder to servo.
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Ah !! I see now.
The hull has actually contracted, rather than expanded. That is good news as the new deck will hold it out to the correct width. Should any imperfections show then it's only a case of a hot air gun to bed the hull edge up to the new deck.
I would be inclined to fit the support timbers under the deck edges before fitting it to the hull, rather the conventional way you have done.
Looking encouraging now. :-))
ken