Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: Ogtinc on August 14, 2012, 05:20:34 pm
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Ok, first off hello all. I am completely new to the boat modelling scene and have just purchased my first kit to attempt to build as I am in search of a bit of a challenge.
My first question is what kind of transmitter/receiver should I be purchasing or does it not really matter? As this is my first time on this I really want to spend as little as possible for the whole setup as I don't know yet if it's something I'll be wanting to do forever and I keep seeing new 2.4ghz batted around but to me I don't really know which is going to be the simplest to use so any advice there would be great.
Also if any of you are local and know a good place to pickup tools/supplies (epoxy, fine sandpaper etc) that would be grand.
Cheers, Ben.
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Well, you're a bit far from me but the best of luck, it's great fun when you get started... :-))
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Thanks Mike :) Any tips for radio gear?
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Ben. The best thing you can do is read the Forum. This will answer your questions about radio equipement.John.
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2.4 is the way to go, you can get a set for around £35.
Glues and sandpaper = Pound land/shop.
Len.
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Grand I'll take a look at some of the popular 2.4 sets recommended on the forums.
Thanks
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Hi Ben, welcome to the forum. 2.4 is the best way as already said here. One of the best value for money radio's is the Planet t5 five channel radio.You can buy it from Cornwall Model Boats complete with RX 6 channel ( receiver) for about 45 pounds. Most of our members recommend it as a very good buy, & yes I have one too. Mick B.
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welcome aboard :-))
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Hi again Ben, I think if you buy a subscription to Model Boats Mag right now you will get the T5 transmitter for free, you will only need to buy the RX. Mick B.
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welcome aboard,go onto "howes model" website they will have most things to get you started.baloo
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Thanks all for the warm welcome and great suggestions. I'll take a look at them all right away :) Hopefully my kit arrives soon so I can get started and see what all the fuss is about!
Ben
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Did you say what your kit is ? If it looks a bit daunting try a Springer , cheap to build and good basic grounding before attempting a more complex boat. See the Springer threads here on Mayhem. Welcome to our little club :-))
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The kit I have bought is a Fairey Marine Swordsman kit, which doesn't look too bad from the photos and I'm ensured by the seller that it comes with pretty comprehensive instructions, here's a photo of the kit you can all proceed to tell me how I've bought the wrong one now.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j66/Gewalt/Boats/swordsman.jpg)
Just need to buy the rest of what I need now :)
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Those kits aren't too expensive so just look at it as a learning exercise. If it come out great, great!
If not, keep it for scraps & spares! ok2
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At least if it doesn't work I'll be able to use the others parts that I'll need to buy for the next project
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welcome Ben, i noticed that your one of us younger elite few. I think out of 2,240 members theres about 10 regular active contributors to the forum still under 30 %).
No offence advanced lads, only joking :D
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have you a link to the kit please :-))
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You asked about 'the rest'.
While building the boat you will need a propeller, prop-shaft and rudder. Here are a couple of big providers:
http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/ (http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/)
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/ (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/)
Alternatively, your local model shop will provide. You should go there anyway - there'll be lots of little things you need - glues, for instance...
You will also need a motor. You're probably thinking about electric? If so, you can have two types, brushed or brushless. There are discussions elsewhere on the site about the difference. You will also need batteries - again two types - Lipo or Ni-Mh. In general, if you want the boat to go faster, chose brushless and Lipo, but I'm sure a lot of other people will have something to say about that. Giant Shark are a good cheap brushless motor and Lipo supplier : http://www.giantshark.co.uk/brushless-motor-c-25.html (http://www.giantshark.co.uk/brushless-motor-c-25.html)
For the radio, you need to know that:
You only need a minimum 2-function radio for motor and rudder. A lot of pistol-grip car radios are 2-function, aircraft ones tend to be the box-shaped 4-function, up to about 10-function. The more functions, the more individual actions you can make happen. But you'll find 6-function and above getting more expensive. Two or four are quite cheap...
Radios come in different frequencies. You select these by buying a pair of crystals for Tx and Rx. You can't run two different models on the same frequency, so you usually need a selection of crystals. But see '2.4Ghz' below....
27Mhz was the original frequency - this can be used in the UK for cars, boats or aircraft. Toys also use it, so it may be a bit prone to interference...
35Mhz is allowed in the UK for aircraft only. Don't use this for cars of boats.
40Mhz is allowed in the UK for card and boats. Because this is quite a small market, 40Mhz sets tend to be a bit expensive. But second-hand ones might be available..
2.4Ghz is DIFFERENT! There is no need to pick a separate frequency - the set effectively does this for you, so you don't have to worry about interference from other models. In fact, 2.4Ghz is quite good at rejecting all forms of interference. You can run cars, boats and planes on it in the UK. And because the market is large, the sets are often quite cheap. That's why everyone is advising you to use this frequency - many people are changing to it at the moment.
There are two common cheap 2.4Ghz sets which are used extensively, the Planet and the Radiolink. The Radiolink is incredibly cheap (£26), as it's sold by a low-cost Chinese kit importer. He is very open about the fact that he is a 'pile-em high, sell-em cheap' setup, so he provides very little support - you are expected to get this from the various forums. But his site is well worth browsing through - he has servos under £2, for instance.
Here is a link to the cheap radio - http://www.giantshark.co.uk/giantcod-24ghz-4channel-mode2-transmitter-p-403779.html (http://www.giantshark.co.uk/giantcod-24ghz-4channel-mode2-transmitter-p-403779.html) This is a 'combo' - a transmitter and a receiver.
Finally you will need a servo to work the rudder (see the Giant Shark servo pages, or your local shop, and an Electronic Speed Control (ESC) to control your motor. There are two types, one for brushed motors and one for brushless, and you would usually buy the ESC at the same time as the motor, making sure it is the right size to take the motor power.
That's all for now....!! %% %%
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A rule of thumb I use when buying an ESC.... Always go for one with at least 20% more power handling than you think you need. this is especially so when buying the "cheap" Escs from ebay and the like, as its a well known fact in RC circles that Chinese Amps are somewhat smaller than European Amps
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Here's a link for you, it's to the mobile site as I not got access to my PC at the mo
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=140820240856
Now to read dodgy geezer's post :)
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What a great post Dodgy geezer!
I have picked up one of the Planet T5 sets and some adhesive for the kit assembly, just got to wait for it to arrive now and hassle the postman. Would you say its safe enough to buy a battery, motor, speed control, prop and rudder/servo before I have everything else or should I wait until its all together to see what will fit?
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Here's a link for you, it's to the mobile site as I not got access to my PC at the mo
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=140820240856
Now to read dodgy geezer's post :)
Oh dear! I didn't think anyone was actually going to read it!!
Once you have got a fair idea of the bits you will need, it's probably a good idea to have a discussion about the way you want to go. You can pick a radio fairly happily on your own, but the choice of motor, ESC, propeller and batteries all influence each other to some extent.
1 - the size of the motor will determine how fast you can go.
2 - the size and type of batteries will also limit how fast you can go, and for how long
3 - the propeller size should be matched to the motor size for best efficiency. If you are using powerful motors and big batteries, the wrong propeller can even cause the motor to burn out...
4 - the ESC needs to be able to comfortably handle the power you have decided on by fitting the motor/batteries/propeller. You should work this out, and NEVER use an ESC which is too small. As someone above says - go 20% higher at a minimum. There is absolutely no reason why you shouldn't go 100% or 200% higher. Cheap chinese ESCs can work - but the quality is often poor, and we have had some reports of ESCs burning out on less than 1/10th of their specified capability. In particular, there is a cheap nameless ESC in a black box with blue heat fins for which there are several horror stories. You typically buy cheap chinese if you know what you are doing and are prepared to work within the limitations. If you buy British you will pay more, but get reliable workmanship, advice and full support. A lot of people like this place: http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/speed.php (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/speed.php) , of which I have only heard good reports....
I would get the motor/prop-shaft etc before you complete the boat, as you will need to set up the motor mount and glue the pro-shaft in during the build. Look at this build log to see what you are going to do: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7668.0 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7668.0)
It's probably best to start thinking about the motor first. Tell us if you would like a sedate potter, a sprightly little jaunt or a rocket, and I am sure lots of people will soon offer their recommendations.....
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Looking over ebay - is the kit you have got a 16.5" Depron one?
If so, the seller's recommendation is for a 6volt speed 400 type motor, a 480 if you want to 'really fly'. I assume he uses a 6v Ni-Mh pack.
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Yer it's the depron one, all I'm really looking for is something that will go at an interesting speed I guess, rather than just chugging around but I'm certainly not after a rocket :) not yet anyway.
I'll have a look through the guide and see what motors look good and have a think about it, then buy the shiniest one.
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Wait a while, and someone will almost certainly produce a recommendation!
A 16.5" boat is quite small, and small boats are often harder to work on because there is less space and they are less tolerant of slight errors. I would think that a 30" boat would be a better size to start with... But small has a number of advantages too. Do you have somewhere in mind to sail it?
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... then buy the shiniest one.
You could certainly do worse :)
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There's a local club that I am yet to contact that I know has quite a fees active members. They are mostly from the Burton on Trent area sailing at Branston water park, where there is a dedicated area for members boats to sail. It will most likely be there unless I find somewhere else in the meantime
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Few not fees grrr
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Well, if no one else is making a guess, how about a Graupner Speed 400 7,2v? Cost about £6-7? With a 7.2V 3300mAh NiMH Battery Pack (cost about £18 at Cornwall) should give the best part of 1 Hour run time? What prop? 25mm? 30mm? ... probably want at least a 20A ESC with that....
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What do you think the performance difference would be between the 400 and 500?
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Hmm... you're out of my area of experience, I'm afraid. I might guess that a 500 would turn it into a rocket, with a correspondingly shorter run time, but that would just be a guess, based on the statement by the seller that a 480 made it 'exciting'.
The boat will be very light if it's made of Depron and only 16" in size. Perhaps we can get some other contributors to add their bit?
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Ill do you a list of parts that id use for this kind of boat. bare with me first though :-))
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.... bare with me first though :-))
I never knew you cared! However, I think that Martin may have something to say about that... %% %%
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Hi,
The Swordsman is a very nice well handling hull, easily driven.
Mine is 12" long and was very surprised at its performance on such a tight budget.
Balsa hull, off the shelf elcheepo bits and 2.4gHz r/c
link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOHhgG6Ay3A&feature=g-upl
So yours with the setup dodgy has suggested should be a little flyer
Dave Millburn designed a 24" very easy and nice performer from which I developed mine
enjoy
vnkiwi
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Id agree with that actually. what youve allready suggested id say was about right. The battery maybe a bit heavy i think but will work none the less. Possibly try a 7.2v in the 2700mah range. get your propshaft from marks model bits
http://marksmodelbits.com/
contact him directly and hel knock you up a propshaft to your specification for handful of beans
this prop would go with the speed 400 motor
https://astecmodels.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_50_59&products_id=347&osCsid=1afb141341d7ae57a4e78f6b7188d975
it has an m2 screw thread so when you order your prop youl want a 2mm propshaft with an m2 threaded end on it.
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I never knew you cared! However, I think that Martin may have something to say about that... %% %%
GRRR :}
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GRRR :}
Sorry - couldn't resist! :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
Only things left would be a motor mount and coupler - Marks Models will do those as well...
And away you go.....
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Great thanks for all the replies guys, and your Swordsman looks great vnkiwi!
Looks like I'll go with the 400, and have a look at the different battery sizes to see which would best fit.
Unfortunately the prop on astec models isn't in stock would the 29mm one also be suitable? https://astecmodels.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_50_59&products_id=349&osCsid=1afb141341d7ae57a4e78f6b7188d975 (https://astecmodels.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_50_59&products_id=349&osCsid=1afb141341d7ae57a4e78f6b7188d975)
For the prop shaft is there a standard length or should I wait and measure the length to get it specifically for this model?
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Do you have a plan which shows the prop and motor? If not, I would partially make the hull, decide how you're going to mount the motor, and then measure the length you require. Remember to make allowances for a coupler...
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theres another prop at cornwall model boats
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/propellers_2318m2.html#aG2318_2e26
the 29 MIGHT work but you may find it will overload the motor. To be safe use the 26.
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Still waiting for the kit to come through should be here tomorrow, hopefully I'll know a bit more by then, perhaps it will advise on the length to use as I have been assured by the seller "All items required are detailed in the instructions" so we'll see :)
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Hi Ben, whilst I totally agree with the advice you have been given so far, I just thought I'd mention what I run a similar model on.
Mine is a 16 inch Swordsman based on the George Turner plastic hull. It is fitted with a 1000kv brushless motor, a seaking 25 amp speed controller & runs a 30 mm prop ( i have tried a prop shop 3 blade & a graupner 28mm hydro prop, but there seems little difference)
I started running it with 7.2 volt 4500 mah nimh pack, which gave me around 35 mins running time ( it only ever goes flat out).
Just for fun I tried it on a 3s lipo pack ( 11.4 volts), the performance was brilliant, it spent more time in the air than on the water.
The brushless set up is more expensive, but still costs less than £30 for motor & speed controller.
I didn't use water cooling on the motor, but i connected water cooling to the speed controller, the controller is never anything but ice cold after a run, the motor gets slightly warm on 7.2 volts, but hotter on 11.4. If i was building it again i would fit a water cooled motor mount.
Sorry if I have confused things, just wanted to show you an alternative that works well. You could start off with 7.2 nimh batteries & with brushless you have the opportunity to upgrade to 11.4 volt lipo's at a later date.
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How hard would you say the water cooling parts are to fit? For my first build I'm not sure whether I should just keep it simple and upgrade or make my 2nd model more complicated.
Also what glue would you guys use for the depron hull?
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for dupron I would use this
http://www.shop4glue.com/depron-glue-depbond-foam-safe-for-all-polystyrene-styrofoam-fast-drying-craft-model-adhesive-56ml-156-p.asp
Easiest way to fit water cooling is to buy a pick up pipe from a model shop. then all you have to do is drill a hole & fit it, connect some silicon pipe to this & run it to contriller first, then to motor mount , then to outlet. Just fit the pick up pipe off centre so that it is in line with the outside of the prop to give maximum water flow from the prop.
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Great that doesn't sound too hard, although drilling more holes seems like more chance of leakage :P
Servo wise, is there a standard one you guys go for or should a general purpose one like http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-4101.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-4101.html) do the job?
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Hi for batteries you could also look @ The Component Shop site,they give great service & have some of the best prices on batteries & other electric stuff, I have no connection except a very satisfied customer & I think they have very good local shipping rates too. Mick B.
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Seems they are also out of stock of the battery I'm looking for, must be a popular one!
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Hi Ben I think you will find if you ask they will make it up for you, @ least I think so, Mick B. PS = Check your pm's.
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Great, dropped them an email.
Thanks %%
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Great that doesn't sound too hard, although drilling more holes seems like more chance of leakage :P
Servo wise, is there a standard one you guys go for or should a general purpose one like http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-4101.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-4101.html) do the job?
a standard one will be fine. look on ebay you can pick em up for a couple of quid
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Great that doesn't sound too hard, although drilling more holes seems like more chance of leakage :P
Servo wise, is there a standard one you guys go for or should a general purpose one like http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-4101.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner-4101.html) do the job?
That servo would be fine - though you will find the equivalent at Giant Shark a lot cheaper - for instance http://www.giantshark.co.uk/sg5010-towerpro-servo-torque-p-205.html (http://www.giantshark.co.uk/sg5010-towerpro-servo-torque-p-205.html)
Marine modellers are generally moving towards 2.4ghz radios, and brushless motors with Lipo batteries at the moment. I suggested 2.4Ghz, but stayed clear of brushless because they are a bit more complex and unforgiving than brushed. They are capable of enormous power if you use a high-energy battery like a Lipo, but, particularly in the small sizes, they are not very flexible. They don't really have a slow speed unless you get complex control kit, and they start with a burst which would be disconcerting for a beginner, and hard to control. Choosing a brushless is complex - the cheaper ones are usually wound for very high revs for aircraft use. It's easy to overload them and burn them, or the ESC, out. The Lipo batteries which let them have this huge power need special chargers, and they have a complex requirement never to drop below about 3v per cell, and to be charged up to a bit over 4v per cell. You keep the batteries inside this range with an ESC which monitors voltage and shuts off the motor when it moves into the danger zone - that's hard to get used to, and even harder to program (which you usually do by signaling to it from the transmitter using beep codes). Lipo batteries are generally less forgiving of rough treatment like being dropped or shorted - they tend to burst into flames. Even if you use NiMH batteries, you still have to program the brushless ESC - while a brushed motor is all understandable technology - just plug in and use.
All in all, brushless are great for speed, but brushed motors are much easier to use. And, as far as I can see, a brushed 400 will get you moving quite fast enough!
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Great I'll have a look at that servoa and probably get that one. Motor is ordered so I don't have to worry about making any decisions lol. Getting excited now waiting for the posty, deciding whether I can risk going out to the shop. Glue is on the way time to clear up the garage ready to receive :)
Just wish my leave didn't end in a couple of weeks :( Oh well, need to earn the money to buy more boats when I get back I suppose.
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Great I'll have a look at that servoa and probably get that one. Motor is ordered so I don't have to worry about making any decisions lol.
If you're buying from a remote place, it's a good idea to see if anything else is needed at the same time. Saves postage, which can get quite expensive nowadays. Have you picked an ESC?
Oh, and we haven't covered sanding/finishing/painting yet. Anyone want to comment about fillers, paints and techniques for depron?
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Had a message back from Dave from action electronics and I explained my setup he said "This is the set-up in my 20" fairey Swordsman and also the Model Slipway RTTL. I use a P79 ESC for those models. Please note there is no Battery Eliminator on any of our ESCs so you'd need either a separate Rx battery (4 cells) or a remote BEC e.g. our P19."
I'm not sure whether to go for this option or possibly get an ESC with A battery eliminator if this is possible.
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Hi and welcome,
Are you able to get down to Markeaton Park? Derby M.B.C meet there every Sunday evening around 5.30/6 ish.Head for the Mundy pool.We park on Markeaton lane car park .At the moment there are only a few members getting down there regularly being holiday time etc. and the weed has been a pain!
Lots of advice available,no need to join up straight away,try it out and if you like it you can become a paying member in January which will cost £15(I think it still is) and that will give you a years membership which gives you third party insurance.
We sail scale,subs and race MFA Piranha with brushless motor set up during spring and winter with the points accumulating over the year to find a winner of a annual award at the Christmas Dinner.Other awards for various things.
I see you are already aware of Burton mbc and they are more pro-active on the show scene and can be seen displaying at many of the large shows.They have a lot more going on than Derby,but it,s horses for courses.Try them both see which is best for you.They both have websites so have a browse.If you want any info , PM me and I will do what I can.
Cheers Andy (Balders) :-))
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That sounds great Andy, I would pop down this weekend but am going to London with the mrs, maybe next week. I didn't actually realise there was a club in derby, I looked on a site that listed clubs and it either wasn't on there or I missed it, I did wonder if boats could be used at markeaton, is it the lake or the pond at the play centre you use?
I'll go and check out the website now.
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Yes mate ,the pond at the play centre.The website is'nt up to much but may help you.
As I say not many getting down there at the mo,but always find autumn,winter and spring busier as there is less likely to be weed on the water.Should start racing again some time in September.We have a few heats with Club 500'S,which I think are a bit tamebut a great starter for racing.Much prefer the set up with the brushless Piranha's we run which make for proper racing!
P.M me later next week and I 'll let you know if I am likely to be down and i can meet up if you like.Just depends on one of the other mates who farms at Kirk Langley. I f he's finished harvesting I could be flying instead.
Cheers Andy.
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Had a message back from Dave from action electronics and I explained my setup he said "This is the set-up in my 20" fairey Swordsman and also the Model Slipway RTTL. I use a P79 ESC for those models. Please note there is no Battery Eliminator on any of our ESCs so you'd need either a separate Rx battery (4 cells) or a remote BEC e.g. our P19."
I'm not sure whether to go for this option or possibly get an ESC with A battery eliminator if this is possible.
Action Electronics are top-class kit. It's your choice. For a simple model like yours I would probably go for a cheaper BEC-included model such as this: http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner_2861.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/graupner_2861.html) Cheaper price, but not cheap chinese. Note that I selected a higher amperage, because Action's stuff will usually overperform, so to get an equivalent item elsewhere I would select a higher spec. Alas, I see that the item I picked is currently out of stock - it may be in soon...?
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I'll have a scout around and see if anywhere else does it for a similar price. Thanks again mate.
Conrad do one, http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/265956/Controller-Navy-V15r not used them before seem fairly reputable.
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Well the kit has arrived
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j66/Gewalt/Boats/photo.jpg)
and fortunately there are a list of reccommended parts to use. So apart from what I already have I'll order from the list as this is my first try at building a model. Although its almost spot on to what you guys have suggested:
Motor: speed size 400, 540 for increased performance.
Shaft: Gundert 3230
Battery pack: 7.2V 2600mAh Ni MH or Lipo
SC: MTRONIKS Viper 15
Rudder servo: any mini servo
Rudder: Very small micro unit from prestwich models with modified aluminium outer tube and cut down smaller blade
Prop: Graupner 25mm dia, Part No 451.0
All seems fairly straight forward apart from the rudder part :)
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Tried not to rush into it, got my garage tidied a bit and setup some clear space where I can lay things out without getting covered in dirt. Time to begin :)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j66/Gewalt/Boats/photo1.jpg)
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Seriously I would bother looking for other ESC's as ACTion's are far superior to anything available....at east ACTion's gear dont burst into flames like some others i can mention
Dave
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Ive just found this coupling 2.3mm plain to 2mm plain. Id honestly try this if your going down the 400 motor to 2mm propshaft route. Bad alignment and vibrations cause excess noise and current draw. I personally find that rubber couplings are the best kind because 1, they absorb vibrations 2, they allow for misalignment and 3, they take to bends in the shaft line better. Not all brands of couplings are good, some are machined eccentric, while ok for slow propshaft speeds at high ones they can be devastating. For your application i would put my money on this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400310818491?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648
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Mike would you say it would be better to go for an M4 setup or?
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Its up to you really. Here is the exact propeller reccomended by your plans
https://astecmodels.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25_50_60&products_id=363&osCsid=586bac4b3cc3ac05fc9babb7529337ac
If your going the speed 400 route id think a 4mm propshaft is a bit excessive personally.
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Excessive in terms of it just doesn't need to be that thick? The only problem I'm having is finding the right length propshaft with the smaller diameter.
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go to marks model bits and email him. he makes bespoke custom propshafts to your exact specifications.
http://marksmodelbits.com/
The link to the email is at the bottom left. Tell him how long you want the outer tube, and tell him how long you wont the inner shaft. Then tell him what ends you need on the shaft. For example when If i were to make an order and need a 20cm shaft from motor spindle to propeller hub, id say i need a 15cm tube, then i would have the inner shaft longer than necessary, like id have the screw end for the prop 1cm long than the tube and and the plain end for the motor coupling 2cm longer than the tube, in total making the inner shaft 18 cm. Id then cut down any excess with my hacksaw at home what i dont need. When you order your shaft make sure you make allowances for the motor spindle to propshaft coupling. Hell charge you beans for it and it most likely arrive next day too.
oh yeah i forgot, no it doesnt need to be that thick, its a bit overkill and an unnecessary weight to haul about, the coupling will be longer than the motor.
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Mark is great & makes very good stuff. You will be happy with his kit, & yes I have used his shafts, Mick B.
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Which prop would you guys recommend, bought two but not sure which would perform best?
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j66/Gewalt/photo-2.jpg)
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the left one is a sports propeller, the right is a prop more commonly used on work vesses such as tugs and trawlers. This sports prop has a much steeper pitch than the 3 bladed and thus creates more thrust per revoultion but the downside is that it requires more power to turn. The 3 bladed prop however is a old fashioned design, it has more grip in the water but less pictch so doesnt create as much thrust, the upside is it uses less power to turn so this prop is more of an economy prop.
Use the 2 blade one for speed
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great, thanks for the thorough explanation!
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what sise prop is the 2 blader and what thread shaft will it be going on
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It's 26mm M2 thread
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Thought I would pop another post on here just to say thanks and show you guys a little video of her first time in the water:
http://youtu.be/jyZ_fLpMeyQ (http://youtu.be/jyZ_fLpMeyQ)
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what a great result well done :-))
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yes indeed.... she's quick and looks a bit of a hand full
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That tilt looks to be caused by the torque reaction from the motor rather than hull inaccuracy. Small thin boats are likely to suffer from this effect...
I suggest that you consider a trim tab - just one, on the side which goes lower - that looks like the starboard. You see complicated controllable ones on racing boats - all you would need is a single metal plate which can be bent down a bit to give counterbalancing lift at speed. Here is a site which gives a bit more data - http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/captpat1.htm (http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/captpat1.htm)
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I'm pleased for my first boat :) the second project has already begun, picked up a fibreglass hull off ebay that came with an old motor, prop/shaft and rudder. It's just a shame my leave ends this week and I'm back to work :(
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You seem to have caught the bug - there's no cure, you just have to be locked away in little rooms with a knife and some balsa three times a week... <:( <:(
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I just wish I could take the models with me on the real ships to pass some time :)
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what do you do?
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I'm in the Royal fleet auxiliary :)
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I had to google it. Its seems natural for guys who work on boats to get into modelling them too. Dont know what my excuse is, ive been on boats but they are not part of my everyday life. I cant understand what it is I like about them, i just do.
one day you will be building a model of your own ship. It seems the thing to do when you are retired.
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I can't wait to have a go at building an RFA Ship, I think the Bay Class ( http://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/The-Fleet/Royal-Fleet-Auxiliary/Bay-Class-Landing-Ships (http://www.royalnavy.mod.uk/The-Fleet/Royal-Fleet-Auxiliary/Bay-Class-Landing-Ships) ) would be really cool to do with the stern door for amphibious landing craft.
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....the hull is not symmetrical so it leans over when planing...
Any comments on the trim-tab proposal? I don't know if you believe that your hull is not symmetrical because you can see that it's twisted, or because you can see it tilting in the water under power. If it's the latter, then I suspect that it's not the hull, and I think a trim tab is the answer...
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I reckon your right it seems like a more logic explanation. It's something I'll have to look into when I'm next on leave.
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The more you overpower a boat, the greater the torque reaction. That's one reason why racing boats frequently have a wide beam. Your boat is a scale deep V, which has a narrow hull, nearer to circular in cross section. This makes it quite prone to torque reaction. If you had gone for a 500 motor things would have been worse!
A smaller propeller will result in less torque (and a bigger one will make the boat spin in the water!) - but a trim tab is the proper way to go...
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Great :) its good to have someone around who knows what they're on about :D
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If im to quick to hit full throttle my Huntsman it will lift out of the water almost verically... So i'm thinking that trim tabs may help here too
I cant move the batteries any further forward
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hELLO,
Nice build for your first model , if you need to build anther sp0rt model with a good performance have look at a SWORDSMAN featured on this site
do have a picture of the stuff you bought on flea bay, and do have a plan of RFA SHIP , ?.. I am building a stand of scale model of HMS ILLUSTRIOUS ,
(http://s11.postimage.org/7h76ntnof/CARRIER_001_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7h76ntnof/)
(http://s18.postimage.org/n7h2497ed/swordsman5.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/n7h2497ed/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/mxku90oyj/WEHMOUTHMODEL_BOATS_2734.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mxku90oyj/)
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Yer I started a thread yesterday with a couple of phots on of the hull and motor link here: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=39192.0 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=39192.0)
I don't have any RFA Ship plans no, but if I can get hold of any I'll let you guys know :)
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Great :) its good to have someone around who knows what they're on about :D
If you know of someone, maybe you could introduce him to me... :D