Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: pettyofficernick on March 13, 2013, 11:43:17 pm
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After a brief dalliance with water jets and brush-less motors, I have now started building the African Queen. I got the hull from Kingston Moldings last year, and have been concentrating on preparing the engine and boiler for installation in the hull.
http://www.kingstonmouldings.co.uk/pdafricanqueen.htm
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,39299.0.html
The hull really is a superb molding, clean, crisp and trimmed to profile, no work needed at all except for a quick wash to get rid of release agent and a swipe with a bit of sandpaper to get rid of the molding line.
First job was to drill the hole for the prop-shaft, followed by fitting beech engine bearers, and mahogany and beech beams to support the floor. The engine is coupled to the shaft with a coupling made from a Meccano wheel and a pair of 1/8" roll pins in the flywheel. Now the position of the machinery is established, the engine and boiler can be removed for lagging and painting.
The firs 2 photos are the engine, boiler and ancilliaries mounted on a tray for removal as a unit for servicing....
(http://s23.postimage.org/mwctw67zf/Pump_Side.jpg)
(http://s23.postimage.org/m83zd899n/Engine_on_base.jpg)
Next up is the framework and engine bearers....
(http://s23.postimage.org/3ttg98wyz/Framing_out_the_hull.jpg)
And finally, the steam plant in position...
(http://[url=http://postimage.org/image/piwxquokn/][img]http://s23.postimage.org/piwxquokn/Installed_in_boat.jpg)[/url[/img]
(http://s23.postimage.org/ayb9ia48b/in_situ.jpg)
(http://s23.postimage.org/i9bd85a0b/PBR_088.jpg)
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I know nowt about steam engines but that one looks beautiful - a work of engineering art - well done that man :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I know nowt about steam engines but that one looks beautiful - a work of engineering art - well done that man :-))
Regards,
Ray.
You are too kind sir, the engine was a machined kit, the boiler was bought from Maccsteam, all I did was to bolt it all to a steel tray and make a few pipes..... :-)) :-)) :-))
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" Yeah. The shaft's twisted like a corkscrew and there's a blade gone off the prop."
Don't forget that bit Nick
Dave
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" Yeah. The shaft's twisted like a corkscrew and there's a blade gone off the prop."
Don't forget that bit Nick
Dave
To what are you alluring, old thumb?
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(http://www.screeninsults.com/images/the-african-queen-cup.jpg)
:-))
Andy
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I will, at some point, be needing a 1/10th scale Humphrey Bogart and Kathrine Hepburn. Is there a company that makes figures from the movies I wonder..... Dave, it is a while since I watched the film, I think a viewing is required to refresh my memory. The part that sticks in my mind is when she chucks his gin overboard, ' Oh no miss, you didn't oughta have done that.......' When the movie was shooting in the Congo, Katherine Hepburn was constantly complaining about John Houston ( director) and Humphrey Bogart's drinking habits, ie, whiskey, constantly. Everyone in the crew got dysentery, except for JH and HB, now that says something!
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Oooh goody, at last. I've been waiting for this bit for about 4 months. I think should I ever build another I will go the GRP route. Looking good matey. What's your ETC, any chance you'll be ready for Coniston on 29th May? All the best,
Jerry.
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Good Morning Jerry, I am hoping to be done within the next 4 to 6 weeks, it is a simple build from now on, no complicated structures to build, just a case of decking out the hull with 1/2" oak planks, building a bench seat around the stern, which is where all the electrical bits will go, a 1" wide mahogany gunwale and a few crates. I am going to use Bowden cables to control the engine. No elaborate finishing, as I want it to look as tatty as it does in the film. Not sure about going to Coniston, bit far for me....
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Hi Nick. It's a 4 day jaunt. We're taking the caravan together with 2 other couples. Already booked cos it's close to bank holiday. Anyway, you're halfway there already.
Jerry.
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Nick I think you are going to need to find a water skier to tow behind it, never mind a Hepurn and a Bogart! I have a River Queen from Kingston (and agree wholeheartedly about the quality of Robins hulls) powered by the Graham Industries VR1A single cylinder version of your engine. It has a 2 & 1/2" reversable prop. On 30 PSI it will push the River Queen, which is larger than your Africa Queen, at way over scale speed. Have a look at it on one of our recent sailing days on http://youtu.be/tSjoT_bqvs0 (http://youtu.be/tSjoT_bqvs0)
What you see when it is going passed is probably at no more than half throttle. I think the TVR1A will make yours get up on the plane but I am sure you will get a lot of pleasure from her. Look forward to seeing her finished and on the water. Cheers, Ian.
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Hi Ian, I am going to use a 2 1/2" prop with 3" pitch so I can run the engine as slowly as possible and still get max thrust, The advantage of running on low throttle settings, of course will be less steam consumption and longer run times. The AQ hull will displace a fair ammount of water, which should also keep the speed down.....
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I got a figure from home and bargains. He's a member of some young boy band. I think you can do something with it. About 1/10th scale
Jerry.
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Nick,
A well thought out steam plant, I like your oil separator combined boiler feed water heater, you will find that it will make a difference to fuel consumption, I think that Jerry did the same on his S.L.WEIR.
Congrats on the plant and no doubt the finished A.Q. will be great, look forward to seeing it completed
George.
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hi nick nice bit of kit you got there. If your engine has 2 cylinders then technically the rpm would be half that of a single cylinder engine. presuming that kiwis and your boiler produce the same amount of steam flow and the same pressure constant. Im correct in thinking this right? I had noticed this characteristic when building my own engines. If you do go over speed wouldnt it be just a simple case of turning down the gas to get a smaller flame, slowe steam production, lower pressure, more run time? It would be better than half throttling the steam valve then the excess steam blowing off threw the safety valve.
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The gas flow will be adjusted for optimum run times, however, I am not too concerned about the safety blowing off, as I have found in practice with my Victoria that it doesn't happen that often. The boiler feed pump will also be taking power from the engine, so a little more throttle is needed anyway. I have the Victoria down to a fine art now and get at least 35 minutes run time on one boiler filling. AQ will be replenishing the boiler as she sails, and I am using a much bigger gas tank (twice that of Victoria) so run times will be for as long as the gas lasts. With a steam plant, it takes a while to learn the characteristics of a particular plant, no two will be the same. Thanks for the compliments chaps, off to Home and bargin now to look for a suitable candidate for converting into Humphrey Bogart, thanks Jerry. :-)) :-)) :-))
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Just as an aside, this is 1/2 of The African Queen on the plane. The real one, not the Hollywood one :-))
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The Hollywood one is still going, working out of Key Largo as a tourist boat, It was originally built for The East African Railway Company in around 1909. http://edition.cnn.com/2012/04/30/showbiz/african-queen-bogart
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Aye, it's amazing how the story still raises a smile :} .
One day, someone will make a film, similar to The Sea Wolves but a bit closer to the truth, about one of the oddest of naval episodes. One of the original German target ships is still sailing on the lake apparently. :-))
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Next job is to make and fit a water inlet for the feed pump. This is just a short length of 5/32 copper tube, with a washer silver soldered in place to stop the tube falling through during the glassing process and a 5/32 pipe nipple for the silicone tubing to grip on. Once made it was glassed into place in the bottom of the hull.
(http://s15.postimage.org/gw4tmgxej/Water_scoop.jpg)
(http://s15.postimage.org/gee9kcx7f/Water_inlet_glassed_into_hull.jpg)
(http://s15.postimage.org/qups8y6u3/outside.jpg)
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Nick....it is little difficult to see from 22,000km away in OZ :o ...but is the hex/round thingie...on the discharge side of the pump the check valve? ....Derek
Oh & BTW I like the yellow/black handled nut driver %%
(http://s23.postimage.org/mwctw67zf/Pump_Side.jpg)
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Hi Derek, there are two check valves on the pump, one on the suction side and one on the delivery side, arranged in such a way as to only allow flow in one direction. the flow then go's through a coil in the separator / condenser before entering the boiler via the clack valve.....It is nearly hot enough to brew up with once it has been pre heated in the seperator......
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Hullo Nick.....in preparation for my build....I have recently purchased two 5/32" OD tube inline check valves from Winfried Niggle [Germany] ....they appear to be approx. 0.8 PSI cracking pressure
I have no experience here in model terms and wonder if I should apply real values????
1. always install the check valves as close as possible to the pump S&D ?
2. by doing so eliminates the natural cushion effect of compressing the water at each pulsation if the valves were spaced some 25 to 30 mm away from the pump suction & discharge >>:-(
3. by installing the valves as close as possible could create load pulsations
Possibly a more experienced model steam engineer could offer comment.......thanks Derek
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Derek,
The hex/round thingie on the discharge side of the pump is a connection to enable a silicone tube to be fitted between the pump and the water supply and it's on the suction side not the discharge side.
Why do you need non- return valves on your water line.
Assuming that you have a clack in the boiler and your pump has ball valves on the suction and discharge side non- return valves are not necessary.
You would need some very large pumps and pipes to create water pulsing, this just does not happen in these toy steam plants that we build and are not necessary, you could have saved yourself some cash but keep the valves for a future project.
What type of boiler feed pump are you using?
George.
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Thanks George
The nomination of twin check valves on pettyofficernick's current build was his not mine.......Nick has not mentioned the design of this pump build
I am intimately aware of 380 Bar hydraulic pump or system pulsations & the consequences .......but not of our 3 Bar steam scenarios
The question of pulsations was prompted by viewing images by Bernhard BB on Mayhem with his model steam launches with what appeared to be RENGINER isolation valve accumulators on the discharge side of the servo driven piston pumps???
The design of my Saito Y2DR horizontal shaft engine makes the installation of the water pump worm shaft between journals difficult but not impossible .....Derek
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Derek,
You have quite misread Nicks post .
The check valves are in the pump, if you look at the configuration of the pump it's in the shape of a "T" with the pump ram driving up to the "T" bar.
There is a 3/16" nitrile ball in the suction side and and 1- on the deliver side, I know this for a fact as I designed and made the pump.
Now please do not take this wrongly, ,in my opinion you get far to involved in the technical side of full size practice which in most cases does not apply to our models.
Keep things simple and they inevitably work, your reference to Bernhards boats ,I must point out that Bernard is a master at building and fitting out models and fitting them out with the characters which makes his models second to non, but doesn't make anything on the engineering side of things he only buys and fits them, so his experience of making pumps ,engines and how they work is limited and he is guided by the makers of such items and has some items fitted that are not really required.
I have quite openly stated on this forum that most of the Gizmos that are bought and fitted to steam plants are unnecessary but if people wish to buy and fit them that's their prerogative to which I have no problem but not for me.
George.
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Derek, Here's a couple of pictures of the pump, designed and built by George ( Ooyah 2 ) the check valves/non return valves call them as you will, are on the suction side ( the one with the push on pipe fitting ) and the delivery side, hope this helps....
(http://s19.postimage.org/nggwd7s7n/Pump.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/ukypm8zgz/Pump_fitted.jpg)
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Lovely work so far Nick & even in the photograph it is possible to see the quality of the hull moulding. I like the idea of a steam setup but I have enough trouble with electrics & radios to keep me busy. One can always dream though, maybe some day I will figure it all out but then it would not be as much fun would it ?. Good luck with with your build, I will be watching all the way. Thank you for sharing, Mick B.
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Hello Mick, fit and well now? Many thanks for the compliments, Steam engines are easy to figure out, I personally prefer chunks of metal and pipes to wires and batteries, there is something very satisfying seeing your steam plant burst into life for the first time after bolting it all together, oily hands and burnt fingers are all part of the fun. There is also the routine of oiling around the engine, filling the boiler, emptying the condenser etc, it all adds to the fun. Lots more to do than switching on and sailing.....
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Steam engines are easy to figure out
I probably understand more about women .... Er probably not.
I will have a go one day but for now I'm just steam curious. So threads like this are a big encouragement Nick.
Dave
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Oh yes, there is also the sound, and the smell of hot fog and oil.....
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Next job to sort out was the engine controls, this has been achieved using Bowden cables, as they are nice and flexible and the runs will not be seen once the deck planking has been laid. The servos will sit underneath the bench that go's around the after area of the boat. No need to go into this in too greater depth, as the photos speak for themselves.
(http://s19.postimage.org/vkjjp03v7/Bowden_1.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/yso121q4z/Bowden_2.jpg)
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Hi everyone just a small query your boiler seems to be bolted to the plant tray will this be insulated or lagged ? seems to me you will lose a lot of heat from your boiler :-)
John
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The boiler will be lagged in due course, once the layout has been finalized. I will loose little, if any heat through the tray, I have used basically the same mountings on all my past models with no problems.....
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Sorry no criticism meant just going by the picture also like the cable setup ,are these readily available and what source
Thanks
John
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Hi, I have pondered the question of heat loss many times myself, so no offense taken. I got the cable from Cornwall Model Boats, along with the fittings to attach to the servos etc. No connection with CMB other than as a satisfied customer.
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/installation_accessories.html#aG1173
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No one has answered Derek's question dose he need a stop valve between the pump & clack?? If like me you use a hand pump to fill the boiler through a separate pipe. Maybe ?? I find there is not enough pressure initially to close the valves in my system, so I fitted a stop valve. I have a check list ( this is a habit from my pilot training) when preparing to sail, obviously the valve must be opened after filling when there is enough pressure.
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No one has answered Derek's question dose he need a stop valve between the pump & clack?? If like me you use a hand pump to fill the boiler through a separate pipe. Maybe ?? I find there is not enough pressure initially to close the valves in my system, so I fitted a stop valve. I have a check list ( this is a habit from my pilot training) when preparing to sail, obviously the valve must be opened after filling when there is enough pressure.
No,
George.
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I'll have a go then. I didn't fit a valve between the feed pump and the clack valve and everything works ok. I DID however fit a bypass valve to overside through a flexi pipe. I use a 60cc syringe through this valve to fill the boiler. The feed pump non returns and the clack valve make the syringe into a pump sucking through the feed pump and discharging through the clack valve into the boiler. This also works.
Jerry.
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I can't see where Derek asked about a stop valve, have I somehow missed a post? A stop valve is not needed, the one showh in the photos is the by pass valve, the output from this will eventually be piped overboard. Good idea to use a syringe as a pump to fill the boiler Jerry, I will have a go at that, it will also help to prime the pump.....
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It does prime the pump but as the pump is positive displacement and under a positive head it is self priming in theory and in practice. I do however open the bypass valve to speed up the process and also to convince me that it is actually pumping. On closing the bypass you can hear the pump load up.
Jerry.
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It does prime the pump but as the pump is positive displacement and under a positive head it is self priming in theory and in practice. I do however open the bypass valve to speed up the process and also to convince me that it is actually pumping. On closing the bypass you can hear the pump load up.
Jerry.
I am sure George said the pump was not self priming when I first got it, I may, however be mistaken, but during tests, I did prime it first with a syringe through the suction side....
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A few more observations for what they're worth. I sail on Llyn Padarn which is crystal clear. My suction skin fitting is flush with the hull. I have no filter or gauze. I have also sailed for 7 miles on the Llangollen canal (6 gas tanks full). I've never had a blockage. The propshop screw never picks up weed. The 3 1/2" Maccsteam boiler/TVR1A/George's feed pump has proved to be a near perfect combination. The only problems I have had are, crud in the gas jet believed to be from extrusion lubricant left inside the copper pipe after production and a couple of flare ups on lighting the burner caused by not having the boat upright on lighting resulting in supplying the burner with liquid instead of gas. Bye bye one Welsh courtesy flag. Sorry boys. 6 quid up in smoke!
Jerry.
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George initially designed the pump to operate with the pump valves vertical I was unable to fit it this way due to the situation in the boat I mounted mine horizontally and we were a little concerned that it might not work like this. It works fine.
Jerry.
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Jerry, what size propeller are you using? I am thinking along the lines of 2 1/4" dia. x 3" pitch from propshop. Do you think that is about right?
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I'm using a 2.75"x4.1" 3 blade. If doing it again I'd ask him to make me a 6" pitch version. 2.75" diameter was the largest I could physically get in. It works fine but the engine will turn a bigger coarser prop. Try one and then we'll all know. Anyone out there turned bigger with this engine?
Jerry.
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Biggest I can physically fit in is 2 1/4", I am planning on using a 4 blade prop, I will, however, go for the 4.1" pitch....
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Did you get any joy at Home and Bargains with a figure?
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Did you get any joy at Home and Bargains with a figure?
Not as yet, not been out much due to being laid low with the mother of all chest infections, but I will have a look when I am near my local store. Can you remember the name of the 'boy band'?
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Sorry, no but Hess got black hair and a grey hoody. Hips and shoulders move but not elbows or knees. About £5. Off the air now, Midsummer Murders.
Jerry.
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No one has answered Derek's question dose he need a stop valve between the pump & clack?? If like me you use a hand pump to fill the boiler through a separate pipe. Maybe ?? I find there is not enough pressure initially to close the valves in my system, so I fitted a stop valve. I have a check list ( this is a habit from my pilot training) when preparing to sail, obviously the valve must be opened after filling when there is enough pressure.
Hammer
If I can come back to your original post if you are using a hand pump to fill your boiler and the pump is of the type with a ball valve in the suction side and a ball valve above on the delivery side and you are delivering into the boiler via a ball clack valve there is something wrong with the valve seats if you are having trouble and have to install a screw down stop valve on the line, possibly they need re- seating.
The only time that I would use a stop valve in the delivery pipe would be if there was a positive head of water above the pump and a pipe into the water supply.
If you shut down the burner allowing the boiler to cool at the end of your run the vacuum created by the cooling process will suck water from the supply( an on board water tank or water from the lake ) and hydraulic lock the boiler then a stop valve is recommended.
Derek didn't ask about a stop valve he asked about an in line valve which is not required.
George.
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I am sure George said the pump was not self priming when I first got it, I may, however be mistaken, but during tests, I did prime it first with a syringe through the suction side....
Nick,
You are quite correct I did say that the pump wasn't self priming the reason being that at the time I had no idea of your experience and as I had made a vertical pump for another member, as opposed to your horizontal pump, which has the valve box about level with the cylinder covers of the TVR which normally is above the water line giving a negative head of water.
The Nitrile balls being hard rubber can dry out in between sailing days and will not lift the water unless you flush it thro' with water to wet the balls and I didn't want anybody that I had made a pump for being disappointed in thinking that the pump wasn't working.
As Jerry has said with a positive head of water the pump is self priming and glad to hear that the pump works so well.
With your's and Jerry's set up using pond water when you lift the boat out of the water and shut down the burner all the the vacuum in the cooling boiler will do is suck in air.
George,
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Nick,
I have had some luck finding figures on ebay, you can search for a particular size. In fact I found two figures of the proper size there for my current project. They are "Evel Knievel" bendable figurines. Evel was the motorcycle daredevil who tried to jump just about everything in the '70's. I guess the only drawback is my crew will be twins! %%
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After a couple of weeks away in sunny Weymouth, work has now recommenced with the fitting of the servos for my bowden cable control system for the engine. After much cursing and gnashing of teeth it now works a treat. If I was to start the job again, I would have been more careful with the cable runs, I did not leave enough room at the servo end and ended up with the two ends too close together and had to do a lot of juggling about to get the servos in without having too much inner cable exposed, as the cable just bends without doing any work. An object lesson in why it is best not to glue first and ask questions later. Still loads to do, lag the boiler and pipework, finish off laying the deck, with the sections either side of the engine removable for access to pump, filter etc. Build benches , boxes etc and make and fit 30 odd brass ribs and gunwhale support gussets. I have, at last got my etched brass triangles for the deck edge/gunwhale supports made , ordered and recieved within a week, and what a nice job they are, I also got twice as many as I ordered as they charge by the sheet rather than by the number of parts.
(http://s19.postimg.org/5kubn1r4j/Control_system.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/tpv14rbf7/Control_system_2.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/qx1tkqb2r/Etched_Brass.jpg)
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Coming along very nicely Nick. Out of interest, where did you get the brass supporting knees? (And why brass rather than wood?)
Greg
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Hi Greg, The original AQ was made of steel, so to that end, I am adding ribs made from 1/4 x 1/4 brass angle, with brass knees to support the 1" wide mahogony top deck. They are made from 22thou brass, photo etched by a firm called ppd ltd in Scotland.
Regards,
Nick.
http://www.ppdltd.com
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You have two servos controlling the engine? One for the throttle and the other for a reversing mechanism of some sort?
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Good evening Cal, yes, one servo controls the regulator, the other is for reversing the engine......
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Another newbie question; you mention a "bowden cable" system. What exactly is this? To the uninformed (me) it looks like two flexible cable pushrods. Are we talking of the same thing just using the vernacular from our respective locales? Or is a bowden cable some special type of setup?
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... a "bowden cable" system. What exactly is this?
A Bowden cable is a type of flexible cable (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cable) used to transmit mechanical (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanics) force (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force) or energy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy) by the movement of an inner cable
The linear movement of the inner cable is most often used to transmit a pulling force, although push/pull cables have gained popularity in recent years e.g. as gear shift cables. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable)
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Hi Greg, The original AQ was made of steel, so to that end, I am adding ribs made from 1/4 x 1/4 brass angle
http://www.ppdltd.com
Ah, didn't realise the AQ was steel. Bending the brass angle to the right curvature for the ribs must be a tricky job. I assume you anneal it first then bend to fit, but doesn't the upstanding part of the angle buckle as you bend it? Never tried it myself, and have no plans to, but intrigued how you do it.
Greg
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Good morning folks, Cal, another example of a bowden cable would be found on a bicycle operating the brakes and gears. Greg, the ribs are only going as far as the floor, they will be about 2 1/2 inches long and the bend is only slight, yes, I will anneal the brass first, and if I need to, I will make some profiles of the inside of the hull out of 10mm ply or MDF, around which I can torture the brass angle to the correct shape. I am going to fire the engine up later to give the cables a final test 'in action,.
Have a good day everyone,
Nick.
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Good morning folks, Cal, another example of a bowden cable would be found on a bicycle operating the brakes and gears. Greg, the ribs are only going as far as the floor, they will be about 2 1/2 inches long and the bend is only slight, yes, I will anneal the brass first, and if I need to, I will make some profiles of the inside of the hull out of 10mm ply or MDF, around which I can torture the brass angle to the correct shape. I am going to fire the engine up later to give the cables a final test 'in action,.
Have a good day everyone,
Nick.
Nick! make us a video of the test. I for one, would love to see it in action!
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Good evening all, back to the African Queen after more wrist operations, the machinery is now more or less ready, and painted, just a little rust here and there to finish it off.
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Nice job Nick. It's looking suitably grimy already, although the TVR is still a bit shiny! Looks like you have used Jerry's technique on the pipe insulation, with polyfilla or similar over the string. Is that right?
Glad to hear your op went well - and that your AQ can now make progress.
Greg
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Morning Greg, I can't bring myself to paint all the brightwork, I think it would be murder to remove in the furure if \I wanted to use the engine in another boat, It lifts in and out as one unit, after disconnecting the cables and water feed,. The pipe lagging is just string fairly loosely wound around the pipework, sealed with 'Tippex' and painted black. I had thought of using Gerry's method, but, anything remotely messy and I just do not mix and the Pollyfilla may have ended up on the moving parts of the engine, and I didn't fancy a big clean up job. Operations on my hands were a waste of time, I wish I had left well alone, worse now than before they started.... <:( <:( <:(
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Looking bad there Nick. I know what you mean about the paint on the shiny stuff, it broke my heart to paint it but I'm over it now. Having had a close look at the boilers of the small boats at Coniston I realised they are not all polished brass and mahogany. They get quite cacky at times. On the subject of pipe lagging, I did mine with the pipes off the plant so no mess. However I think yours is more in keeping with AQ. Good job matey. Sorry about the surgery, I had one of those steroid injections in my left shoulder a fortnight ago and though it hurt like billyoh at the time it's done the trick and allowed me to progress with the physio. I'm going to ask her to do the other one tomorrow. Reminds me of a story I heard about Rooney and Beckam at World Cup time. Rooney had injured his foot but told Sven that if he gave him a cortisone injection he could probably play the second half. Sven said it was a good idea but he'd have to run it past Beck first. So he put it to Beck and he threw a wobbly saying, "if that little fat soandso gets a new car, I'm getting a new car!"
Jerry.
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Hi...Nice work
Here is mine..Regards Bernhard
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lpoo5kngjQ4 (http://www.youtube.com/embed/lpoo5kngjQ4)" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Wow, I don't think mine will come out any where near that, fantastic! :-)) :-)) :-))
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I'm always left feeling inadequate when I watch one of Bernhards movies. Can you hear the frogs, cicadas and monkeys calling in the trees? Can you smell those dirty bilges and the occasional whiff of cheroots? He always sets the bar higher for us to jump.
Jerry.
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I could even smell gin! Speechless.....
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Many Thanks for your kind words
Ohh yes :-)) you can do that,,,no problem...thats easy to do,,,more problems to do a clean boat,,,
the boat you build is just the right size,,,this billing ..is on the small size 70cm...
keap up you good work
Regards on the water http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMBXVb97N0o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMBXVb97N0o)
Bernhard...
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Lovely video Bernhard - it gives us all encouragement to see your boats operating. Thank you for posting.
What is the music you used?
Greg
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Lovely video Bernhard - it gives us all encouragement to see your boats operating.
And a feeling of inferiority :)
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Many Thanks for your kind words
Ohh yes :-)) you can do that,,,no problem...thats easy to do,,,more problems to do a clean boat,,,
the boat you build is just the right size,,,this billing ..is on the small size 70cm...
keap up you good work
Regards on the water http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMBXVb97N0o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMBXVb97N0o)
Bernhard...
Bravo , beautiful boat (ship {:-{ ) is it a single cylinder engine ? is there reverse/stop on this type , just out of interest , this sort of quality's WAY BEYOND my capabilities %%
Bill O0
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Nick,
With what did you paint the boiler and lagging? Was it ia hi temp paint? How are you going to simulate the rust?
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Hello Cal, I used standard Humbrol enamel, I am hoping the paint on the top of the boiler will blister a bit, to add to the shabby appearance. As far as rust go's I will either use a weathering produce as supplied for model railways, or, mix some iron filings with a little paint and daub it on here and there, when it is dry, a light sanding of the surface will expose the iron filings and the should rust naturally. Well, I hope it will anyway. If anyone has any rusting tips, please add them, I'm all ears.....
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Nick,
Any progress on the AQ? I'd like to see some pics!
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Hello Cal, nothing since finishing off the engine, now that Summer is here and I work 3 nights a week, progress has slowed a little, I have also been taking advantage of the lighter evenings to sail Victoria. Fear not, there will son be a burst of activity, I need to get it finished as I have other projects backing up.....
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There will son be a burst of activity
Get it on video Nick - that's rare enough stuff to call in David Attenborough. {-)
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Still looking for that "Burst of activity" Nick! I want to see this boat come together! And see some video of it on the water!
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And so you shall Cal, in the fullness of time I was only looking at it a couple of days ago, and thinking 'I must crack on with this' The weather has ben keeping me outdoors for the last couple of months, once it has cooled down a bit I will resume operations...... :-)) :-)) :-))
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That's good to hear Nick, your building expertise is an example I need!
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Work has resumed at last, I have made and fitted the rudder this weekend, a straight forward fabrication job and all went according to plan. The mounting blocks/bearings started life as two strips of 1/4 x 1/8 brass flat soldered together, all holes were then drilled and tapped 8ba where necessary and then un soldered, so everything lines up nicely. Unfortunately, I broke one of the brass screws that hold the support bar to the keel, I guess I will have to live with that as I will damage the hull trying to remove it. Just need to work out how I am going to operate it now, I have a couple of ideas, all will no doubt be revealed in the fullness of time.
(http://s19.postimg.org/9aj4b2ihf/Rudder5.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/v1xao0yz7/Rudder3.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/p4tf77hub/Rudder4.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/nr6dpn7yr/Rudder2.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/67dstye4z/Rudder_1.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/uqfub9ij7/outside2.jpg)
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Looks great Nick! Can't wait to see it progress.
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Yes Nick, looking good. I will have to pay you a night visit O0
Dave
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Nice to see your progress Nick. Have you found your Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn yet?
As the AQ had a tiller, had you considered using a whipstaff arrangement, with a servo right under the tiller operating a vertical fork engaging with the tiller? Not strictly to scale, but perhaps less intrusive than other connections. Just a thought.
Keep going - looking forward to the next progress report. :-)) :-))
Greg
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Hi Greg, the whipstaff is the way to go I think, with a slight difference, I am considering 2 tillers, the main 'scale' one, and another through a slot in the transom, lower down, so all the 'works' will be hidden under the stern bench.... :-)) :-))
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Greetings all, I have made progress! After another bout of inactivity, I am once more back in harness and cracking on with the job. I attempted, some time ago now, to effect control of the engine by using Bowden cables, this was not a success, I think due to the bends being too tight. You will see from the photo how cramped everything turned out, as I was trying to keep the servos in the small space beneath the bench seats.
(http://s19.postimg.org/gn6ha918z/Bowden_3.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/tpv14rbf7/Control_system_2.jpg)
The upshot of all that was, I removed the lot and started again. So, back to a blank canvas, so to speak. This time, I decided to use conventional push rods, with the servos along side the engine. I used Hi Tec medium sized metal geared ones, and they will be hidden under the gin crates. First job then was to plank the deck in, I have used 10mm x 1mm oak for this....
Stripped out ready for take 2....
(http://s19.postimg.org/3zpfsn8k3/Stripped.jpg)
Planked and ready for servos....
(http://s19.postimg.org/f0kkxo0sz/nearly_there.jpg)
All done..
(http://s19.postimg.org/5qd27vfgz/FILE0037.jpg)
Testing day, just visible is the steering servo, with the 'second tiller' arrangement, I will take a photo later for those who are interested
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/835/6x8m.jpg)
There are a couple of leaks to sort out, one in the feedwater line, and one on the main steam pipe, I mush have knocked it when working on the regulator control. Still not used any ply yet, hoping not to have to use any. Finally, a link to a video of the Queen getting het bottom wet for the first time a couple of days ago. Please forgive the watermark, used an on line video editor to make the file smaller for uploading.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBjhvdFmGFI&feature=youtu.be
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Looking great dere la! What are the hull dimensions? She looks similar to mine but appears to carry more weight. She certainly rides higher than Wear which is overloaded a bit. I'm looking for a GRP hull about 4' to 5' with a hefty beam on her for the new plant.
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry, she is the Kingston moldings African Queen hull 36" x 10 1/2", she is riding high at the mo, more weight to go in yet, 30 odd brass angle frames, brass knees, Mahogany upper deck, but I think it will take it quite easily. The hull is a work of art, beautifully molded, and ready trimmed. http://www.kingstonmouldings.co.uk/pdafricanqueen.htm
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Here is a photo of the tiller arrangement, simply a servo connector minus the securing screw, through which the operating tiller slides when steering, simple and effective, it gives 45 deg, either way, and is all hidden under the bench.
(http://s19.postimg.org/ydg2hoftf/Tiller.jpg)
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Nice parcel in the post this morning, the gas tank has arrived, nice an big for long voyages....
(http://s19.postimg.org/ja335287n/Tank.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/9o9iorh1v/In_place.jpg)
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Nice to see the AQ moving along again Nick. Your "second tiller" looks like it will be just the job to do some hidden steering :-))
Looking forward to following the rest of the build.
Greg
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Thanks Greg, as you can see, I am trying to build in the 'distressed' look, as I wan't the finished job to look as tatty as the real AQ, hence the oil stains on the decking etc.....
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I love a parcel, especially with a shiny thing in it.
Jerry.
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I love a parcel, especially with a shiny thing in it.
Jerry.
Ha ha ha ha ha, so do I, I lie in wait for postie, and fling open the front door before he is even through the gate......
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Ha ha ha ha ha, so do I, I lie in wait for postie, and fling open the front door before he is even through the gate......
{-) {-)
I bet you two refuse to go to bed on Christmas Eve in case Santa misses your house!
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You can imagine the fuss when I come home and find one of those red cards......
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Your AQ is looking good Nick! I look closely at all your pics and frequently find something I can use in one of my builds. You are a building genius! :-))
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Why thank you Cal, I always think my efforts are a little rough when compared to others whose boats we see on these pages.....
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The after section of oak decking is now more or less finished, just needs a lick with the sander to tidy it up. I have started setting out the bench seats and fixed the bottom rails down. I have also made a pair of ribs from brass angle and added the brass knees which will support the mahogany deck. Bending the brass angle was easier than first anticipated, so about 30 to go now. Progress is slow and painful at the moment due to being tormented by gout in my right hand, it is a case of do 10 minutes, rest for 10 minutes......
Bench seats bottom rails fixed
(http://s19.postimg.org/t53vm57v7/Setting_out_the_bench_seats.jpg)
Rib and knee detail
(http://s19.postimg.org/6rw4zc6xf/Brass_rib_and_knee_close_up.jpg)
Pair of ribs temporarily in place
(http://s19.postimg.org/v74d0e5ub/Both_sides.jpg)
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Here's a few photos of last nights efforts, this is the seating arrangements, the battery and receiver will live here. Two slight problems to overcome, 1, there is not enough room for the Rx ariels on the Futaba reciever to be set fully at 90 degrees, and I forgot to put provision for the servo cables to be fed in, due to the revised layout after abandoning the Bowden cable control system.......
(http://s19.postimg.org/ffdxr3a4z/benches.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/obopv10r7/low_view.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/x7zhyyrdf/seating.jpg)
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Coming along nicely Nick :-))
Greg
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The oak planking inside the hull is now finished, apart from a bit of fettling with the sander, the section on the Port side lifts out for access to the water filter. Once the engine bay is painted, the next job is to fit the brass ribs and knees.....
(http://s19.postimg.org/f6gd15xcj/Planking_finished.jpg)
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Cross beams to define deck opening now fitted, made from ramin and faced with Mahogony. First side has been fitted out with 1/4 x 1/4 brass angle ribs.....
(http://s19.postimg.org/r278jpc7n/Ribs.jpg)
Apologies for poor photo, this particular camera does not seem to like tungsten lighting, even with the flash.....
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Looks great to me Nick. I always learn something when I look at your stuff!
Does your camera have a "white balance" setting? That would help with the color under tungsten lights.
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Looking good have you given thought about possible steam problems with servos as they may need some sort of shielding %) silicone comes to mind
Cheers
John
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The servos will be hidden beneath Gin crates, I was planning on lining them with polythene to keep any steam off. However, there won't be any steam leaks (he said, with fingers firmly crossed).....
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All ribs and knees now fitted, bit of a milestone in the build, just the deck to go on now, but awaiting the skin fitting for the feedwater by pass from the machine shop, so I will start making gin crates, dynamite boxes etc and finishing seats off.
(http://s19.postimg.org/hqps0hp1v/ribs_001.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/bzv090ro3/ribs_002.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/mnyr7v1n7/ribs_003.jpg)
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:-)) :-))
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Looks great Nick! :-))
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That looks really smart Nick, stunning work! :-))
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After spending most of the dat beavering away, sawing, sanding and getting thoroughly itchy from mahogany dust, the deck is now fixed in place, made from 2 1m lengths of 100 x 2mm monogamy sheet. Rather than use a third to make up the width, I roughly cut out the opening and glued the resultant strip on the outside with aliphatic resin, this was left overnight to cure. It was then a simple matter of clamping the first piece in place and drawing around the outside of the hull and cutting out with the trusty old Dremel scroll saw. I then used a combi square as a gauge to mark the inside edge, after cutting out, leaving a bit over for fettling later, it was glued in place with 1/2 hour epoxy. Same procedure followed for the other side, after a nice brew, clamps off and attack with the sander.....
(http://s19.postimg.org/dljgsbgnn/Embryo_deck_panels.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/f1uzagjkj/cutting_to_shape.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ppyq9atjn/firs_one_fixed.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/u0de4vymr/2nd_one_fixed.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6nfcmdij7/done.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/5erh0qqkz/plan_view.jpg)
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Well that's the deck finished, starting to look something like now.....
(http://s19.postimg.org/j9ucwyadv/lookin_good_001.jpg)
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:-)) Super-Duber.looking good
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The brass ribs add a lot. After a bit when they begin to tarnish, they'll add to the "tattered" appearance your looking for! Should be a museum piece when you are done. Just like in the movie! :-)) :-))
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I am actually going to paint the brass ribs, the originals are iron/steel, so paint then rust. A little AQ trivia now. The African Queen was originally built on the banks of the Ribble, near Lytham UK by the Lytham Shipbuilding and Engineering Company.
Previously known as Richard Smith and Co the Lytham Shipbuilding and Engineering Co was set up in February 1894. It was based on the Ribble estuary to the East of Lytham at Lytham Creek.
During the 1800s the yard made shallow-draft river craft which were sent in pieces and rebuilt at their destination. In addition, the yard made a variety of sternwheel, quarterwheel and tunnel propulsion river boats, barges and tugs. She was named SL Livingstone and was shipped to The East African Railway Company company on the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert. Lake Albert is located on the border of the Belgian Congo and Uganda. She was built in a narrow way to navigate this river and was used to carry mercenaries, missionaries, cargo and hunting parties on their voyages.
In 1951 John Houston commissioned her in the starring role in a film he was making called The African Queen.
More information here http://africanqueenflkeys.com/history.html She has now been restored and earns her living running canal trips around the Florida Keys.
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How comes the Queen Nick? You've been quiet lately. Are you moving into your new shop yet?
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A quick update, it is now time for painting, well, I hate paint, I hate painting, and I am definitely not a painter, so I immediately put it off and made some crates, all made from individual planks, 2 for the servos, 1 open one for the gin (any ideas where I can get 1/10th scale gin bottles?) and one to cover the flywheel. once these were done, I bit the bullet and slapped a bit of paint on the inside, doesn't look too bad from the other side of the room, but I guess it doesn't really matter as I am going for the shabby look anyhow.
(http://s14.postimg.org/yax0gujc1/Paint_n_crates_001.jpg)
(http://s14.postimg.org/ia4f3vlgh/Paint_n_crates_002.jpg)
(http://s14.postimg.org/v2sj3sx29/Paint_n_crates_003.jpg)
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Nick....stain the wooden crates with an off brown/blackish tone........then spray with matt polyurethane [inside & out]....I am also not a painter >>:-(
But why would you need to cover the flywheel?................Derek
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The box over the flywheel is where Rose and Charlie brew up, and where Charlie stood his Gin mug, before Rose threw it all overboard....I will be staining the crates and putting Gordons labels on them......
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Probably Dolls House wine or spirit bottles in 1/12 if they don't look too much out of scale.
Ned
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I have been looking at 1/12th scale bits and pieces, I don't think they will look out of scale, at this size, there is hardly anything in it. Anyway, I have finally plucked up the courage to apply some paint, it doesn't look too bad, once it has been dirtied up a bit, no one will notice (I hope).
(http://s3.postimg.org/f9g8uyf8z/Painted_001.jpg)
(http://s3.postimg.org/evabhm5rn/Painted_002.jpg)
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%)...mmmmmm you are making a really nice job on the chair arm Nick....... {-) .....
Why is the sea suction so low & in such a predominant <*< place? ................. Derek
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Nick, I'm sure dolls house gear is an ok scale for A Q. Last pic shows my bypass overboard discharge skin fitting. Sea suction is similar. That pipe looks a bit vulnerable as it is. Epoxy a brass washer over it and crop it off.
Jerry.
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The suction pipe is where it is mainly for convenience inside the boat, ie, close to the pump, and the length is so I can fit a length of flexible pipe and a syringe on to prime the pump. Discharge overboard will be via a purpose made skin fitting (thanks George). Incidentally, I am taking possession of a late model Myford Speed 10 long bed lathe the week after next, a late model in pristine condition. I already have a set of castings, so an engine build is on its way....
The didcharge fitting..
(http://s30.postimg.org/7d0xclrox/Discharge.jpg)
My new lathe, waiting for me in Yorkshire....
(http://s9.postimg.org/g05hzyo4f/Lathe.jpg)
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Ooooh, a lathe and engine castings (which engine?) :-) You lucky so 'n' so!
Looking forward to this - of course, you'll have to build another boat for the engine - and a boiler, and a gas tank.... Lots of good stuff coming up from Nick everyone - take your seats now! :-)) :-))
By the way, AQ continues to impress - can't understand why you shy away from painting, yours looks great to me.
Greg
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I hate painting Greg, I get more on the floor, dog, cat, walls and me than I get on the job in hand. I am going to build Brunel Models Alpha marine oscillator, it is a big chunky thing, so all the bits will be easier to see and handle eyes are not good enough for watchmaking any more. It is 20 years or more since my trusty old Boxford AUD went in the interests of domestic harmony, so this job will ease me back into things. I haven't decided what boat to put it in yet, next project is a Mountfleet Clyde Puffer with one of Georges v twins in it, got everything ready to go as soon as AQ is finished. I made the framework for the awning last night, I did it like a frame tent, made 4 corner brackets from brass tube ans built it up from 3/32 brass rod, It will come apart with ease, depending on how AQ is set up for sailing on any particular day.( some scenes in the film have the awning erected, some don't)
(http://s28.postimg.org/47vptk2b1/Awning_001.jpg)
(http://s28.postimg.org/rni8cnbfx/Awning_002.jpg)
(http://s28.postimg.org/6f4jv7wz1/Awning_003.jpg)
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Won't be long now, just the winch to make, 2 bench seat tops, a bit of fettling and some weathering and it's done, oh, I suppose I'd better make a stand as well....
(http://s19.postimg.org/rkh37j3tf/Nearly_there_006.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/44z626k2b/Nearly_there_003.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4t80l4is3/Nearly_there_001.jpg)
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Nearly there now, a little more painting, fit the winch, add all the little bits and pieces of dolls house accessories (gin, mugs, kettle ets) refit the engine and she is ready to go,
(http://s19.postimg.org/8rag1vok3/most_of_the_bits_made.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ax4qwds0j/assembled.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4rh2uv28j/Latest_AQ.jpg)
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Nearly done....
(http://s19.postimg.org/87dsi5our/Bow2.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/g1ee3jwnn/Nearly.jpg)
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Superbly scruffy! Hope the dirt doesn't all wash off when she hits the water %%
Greg
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Hi Greg, the dirt is artists oil paint, mixed and thinned to a wash with turpentine, takes a couple of days to dry, then fixed with spray on matt varnish
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AQ has had her first day out, still a few bits to do on the inside and a bit of tidying up, I had hoped to finish off last week but it was just t5oo hot, so I was flaked out under a fan most of the time. But, she sails nicely, although there is a niggling little problem with the boiler feed system. Here is a few pictures....
(http://s19.postimg.org/urvufmdjn/AQ9.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/3mivv47bn/AQ14.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/eojdftc0j/AQ16.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/ew70cbmz7/AQ3.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/4xhgc3o5v/AQ2.jpg)
(http://s19.postimg.org/6zmj43bir/AQ7.jpg)
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:-)) :-)) :-)) She really looks the part.
(Although "Humphrey Bogart" looks like he has already polished off most of that case of gin!)
A little video next time perhaps?
Great job Nick.
Greg
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Bogey was indeed lying pi,sorry, slashed in the bottom of the boat.....Listen carefully to the sound ......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiXNZKCsKtQ
In this next video, Rose has fell of her seat due to a bit of rough weather.......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjBXuJhGSz0
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Looking and sounding really good. BZ!!! What's the problem with feed water?
Jerry.
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Ah, Jerry, the very person I need to speak to. The B F pump pumps, nice flow from by pass, close by pass, nowt going in to boiler. A large syringe on the inlet produces the same result, all clear, nice flow, as soon as bypass closed, nothing going into boiler. I opened up the boiler check valve when it had cooled off, the little ball dances up and down when I inject water into inlet with syringe. I am going to take check valve off the boiler tomorrow and have a proper look to see if there is a blockage. With having the preheat coil in the condenser/oil trap it fills up very quickly and water starts passing up the exhaust in the chimney, so I may have to rethink that one as well. What pressure is your boiler running at? Mine is set at 45psi.
Nick.
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I fill my boiler using a 60 ml syringe via the pump suction. This lifts all valves and proves the pump. If, when you close the bypass valve no water goes into the boiler it must be going somewhere else. I suspect a leak in the heater circuit, you said the de oiler fills quickly. If the ball in the clack valve lifts I can't see that as a problem. The water will take the route of least resistance.
My safety lifts at 60 psi. I run the engine at. 20 - 35 psi.
Let me know how you get on. Best of luck.
Jerry.
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Ah ha, good thinking batman, I will investigate tomorrow and report back......
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Feed water problem sorted, must have been a sticky n/r valve, works fine now. Just wish this wind would go away now.....
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:-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) looking realllll good,,
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AQ had a little outing on Sunday, a bit cols and windy, but she performed well......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ0Un_nwnTQ
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Very enjoyable Nick - loved the dialogue :-))
Dave
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What a nice boat :-))
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I may have missed this but where did you find tiny bottles of Gordon's???
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Hi Cal, the gin bottles and some other stuff came from here..... http://www.aminiaturemarvel.com/products.asp?sectionid=68&page=4