Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: deadbeat on September 15, 2013, 02:01:58 pm
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I have now taken on two E-Boat projects at 1/24 scale.
The first is to restore my brothers S38 type as pictured below. Mayhemmers belonging to the Portsmouth Model Boat Display Team may recognise this boat as it did sail with them a few years ago.
On top of that I have purchased a 1/24 E-Boat hull from Models By Design to develop a S100 type E Boat so my brother and I can sail together and show two versions of the E-Boat.
At 57.5 inches long this is a big boat and I don't anticipate being on the water next year as I don't work on my models every day and may even go weeks without doing much. I'll post piccies as I go.
At the moment I'm assembeling the shopping list for my S100, motors, electronics, props, etc, etc. Good job Christmas is coming.
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German E boats shame on you sir S boats :}
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To be accurate during the war they were known by the British as E Boats short for Enemy Boats, by the Germans as Schnell Boots, aka S-Boots, the term S boats is a mixed German/British derivitive as the S is for Schnell a German word and boat is a British word (boat in German is Boot) and therefore S Boat is least accurate of the terms because of its hybrid nature.
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Well hush my mouth :} As far as It goes S boats it is for me quite aware Boot is boat and we did not call their Unterwasser Boots subs did we
and E for enemy boats the whole KriegsMarine were enemy boats
Anyway nice pics its my favourite MTB
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Not sure of the scale but I saw this one in Queensland.
Working torpedos and very fast.
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(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q776/gra28/GSEboatOct1202_zps6c3a407c.jpg) (http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/gra28/media/GSEboatOct1202_zps6c3a407c.jpg.html)
Hi a photo of my Schnellboot hull same as yours deadbeat.
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They are handsome craft and I welcome any pictures of models as I'm still gathering information and it all helps. The plans I have are for an S38 at 1/24 scale so I have to modify those for the S100 armoured bridge. I have built the 1/72 Revell version as a reference model which I will use to scale up and redraw the plans. My trusty drawing board and T square has come out of retirement; the major task is to create the templates for each facet of the armoured bridge.
The deck fittings and layout is less cluttered than the S38, but that doesn't cause much of a problem.
And before anyone asks I have no intention of incorporating the Lurssen effect in the model. There is a very fine video on Youtube where this has been done and it is extremely complicated I take my hat off to the modeller.
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The Italeri 1/35 is a pretty good example and Wot no lursen effect that would be something . I dont think the Oz one with bows up looks right I nearly bought a 1/24 on ebay a few month back the guy was a professional builder Jeez it was something else not to mention the Price
I have several photos in the Fine scale magazine of the Italeri build and you know how fussy they are down to the number of rivets. Should you have a part in question be happy to post detail if its amongst them
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Is it very difficult to post them all, as there are several parties on here, interested in the 1/35 Italeri conversion, including myself. O0 O0 O0 :-)) :-)) :-))
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My main problem will be the armoured bridge, as each face will have to be cut and glued individually, i'll need to create templates that match the hull I have. I am using the 1/72 bridge from the Revell kit as a pattern and 1/24 is three times up in scale from 1/72 so i'm scaling up, but that will only give me an approximation as any differences in tolerance in the GRP will need to be taken into account. That problem however is months away I first need to build a running hull.
I'm finalising the shopping list and will post this for your amusement and I'll hope for a very benevolent Santa.
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RAAAarty First I also have model boats winter 2009 which covered the conversion
I got it wrong as usual Re fine scale its actually Model Military which covered building (static ) over 4 magazines
Deadbeat one Month covers re doing the bridge (Skullcap)including Adding welding seams and rivets
I f anyone Pm's me I'll see what I can do ref the articles and phots might be a bit iffy posting on here
Nor to mention the photo of a real ones torpedo tube which is NOT angled
Cheers
Jay
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RAAAarty First I also have model boats winter 2009 which covered the conversion
I got it wrong as usual Re fine scale its actually Model Military which covered building (static ) over 4 magazines
Deadbeat one Month covers re doing the bridge (Skullcap)including Adding welding seams and rivets
I f anyone Pm's me I'll see what I can do ref the articles and photos might be a bit iffy posting on here
Nor to mention the photo of a real ones torpedo tube which is NOT angled
Cheers
Jay
Many thanks for the assistance O0 O0 O0 and copy of the article which is much appreciated O0 O0 O0
Thank you :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q776/gra28/DSCF1760_zpse604144c.jpg) (http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/gra28/media/DSCF1760_zpse604144c.jpg.html)
Hi deadbeat another shot of my Schnellboot.
Gra2
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(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q776/gra28/DSCF1763_zpsc87250c9.jpg) (http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/gra28/media/DSCF1763_zpsc87250c9.jpg.html)
One more shot.
Gra2
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Hi Db.
RE: My trusty drawing board and T square has come out of retirement; the major task is to create the templates for each facet of the armoured bridge. Why give your self all that bother I have the plans for it.
Frank
(http://imageshack.us/a/img812/7532/hxrz.jpg)
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Hi Antrim
They look ideal I assume they are 1/24 scale, they look it. I'm happy to purchase a set, they will help a great deal.
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Hi Antrim
They look ideal I assume they are 1/24 scale, they look it. I'm happy to purchase a set, they will help a great deal.
Hi Db.
of course they are the correct scale would `nt have offered them otherwise. they have all the good stuff on them like the underwater bits
Frank
(http://imageshack.us/a/img163/8049/tfcy.jpg)
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After many months my brother's refurb is complete. A total repaint and repair of a lot of damage to the detail.
I used 'German S-Boats' by Steve Wiper as my bible especially for the camo.
It now awaits my brother to verify the electronics.
I have now started my E-Boat (S-Boat) which will be a S-100 type, whilst my brothers represents a late S38 type (S80).
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Looking really nice, I want one now!
Cheers
Phil
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The drawing don/t show the trim plate at the stern this helps to hold the bow down at speed I only found out about this after I finished mine reference Whitley German coastal forces WW11photo on page 23shows this regards Bill.....
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During the 30s a wedge was installed at the stern of S Boats to reduce what's known as squat.
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Super Models! I read somewhere that at the end of the 2nd WW, there was such a shortage of Bronze for propellors that some boats just had a bronze propellor hub, fitted with thick Plywood blades. This severly limited the Speed that these boats could reach, makeing them vulnerable to the D Boats.
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If anyones' interested I now own the review model that Dave Abbott built and also two 1/72 scale models one of which has been fitted out with RC, could take pics if required.
Paul.
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Its ages since I've added to this thread, but progress on my S100 has been very slow. The model is now about 90% complete the biggest job left is painting, especially as I'm trying to weather it as well, at 57" long its a task and a half. Here are some pictures.
You'll notice the main deck is clear of clutter (and paint), this is because its not glued down yet as I still need to do basin trials and fine tune the elctronics and check trim and waterline, etc.
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Wow, beautiful work going on here! I've been looking for a 1/24 e-boat for a while, do you know anyone makes the hull/fittings?
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Models By Design produce the hull and the old Precision Controls (now Battlecrafts) did produce a complete fittings set.
Bob
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Excellent! The Armored bridge could be interesting to scratch build!
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The armoured bridge is available from Shapeways:
http://shpws.me/HUYt
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The hull is made by Models By Design, but needed modification as their hull is of a S38.
The bridge front is one of the first made by Shapeways, it needed completion.
The fittings kit by Battlecraft is by and large S38 class although the guns and rubber dinghy are by them, I modified the 20mm gun for the tub mount, and they had just produced the twin 20mm zwilling mount although I had to build-in the bar. Battlecrafts also produced the white metal fittings. 1mm plastic card is used throughout.
The boat is powered by three MFA 800 motors at 12volts. Action ESCs/mixers used throughout. It also has Action's noisy thing with Action amplifier and speaker. Full power trials yet to be conducted when I get round to inflating the paddling pool.
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Very nice :-))
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Hi looking good.
Earlier post indicates supplier of hull and fittings.
Gra2
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Very very nice. :-)) I have set my heart on a 1/24th scale mtb d for my next project. Looking forward to seeing the end result of your e boat. Thanks for sharing those stunning photographs. Phil
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More pictures.
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Here are a few photos of my E Boats basin trials. They went well and was pleased with the power from the three MFA 800 motors. The centre shaft which is below the waterline leaked a bit but I found that there was too much clearance in the shaft alignment, now sorted.
Hull and deck still needs painting. Guard rails, not yet fitted, but are complete and painted.
Guns, white metal fittings and rubber raft by Battlecraft.
Bridge front by Shapeways.
All electronics by Action.
I'm not fitting the tub cover or anchor as these were, it seems, not normally taken on patrol, it was also unusual to take spare torpedoes on patrol although I will have some for show.
Crew yet to be purchased, hopefully these will be from HL Mouldings.
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Which props did you fit please and do you find the 800's adequate in open water
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I am using three 162-21 D Type 50mm Raboesch props as follows:
Port and centre are D-50-R-3bl-M4
Stbd D-50-L-3bl-M4
I chose 50mm props as that is what my brother fitted on his E-boat giving satisfactory results, although the props I used were different design and manufacturer. My props have a pointed hub rather than a blunt hub which reflects more accurately what the real E-boats had, they look great.
I have not yet had an opportunity to run it in open water so can't comment on overall performance. The acceleration in my paddling pool looked good as it bounced back a good way as it hit the end of the inflated pool, lol!
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Thank you :-)) is that them turning inward or outward?
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I'm tempted to do one of these as well, but I cant decide if I want to go for the 1/24 or a 1:35 Italeri conversion?
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I'm tempted to do one of these as well, but I cant decide if I want to go for the 1/24 or a 1:35 Italeri conversion?
Go big or go home!
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I have both (built neither) whilst the italeri is good mine needs much finer weather
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I've been offered a bare hull for one, but no plans
Does anyone know a good place to get "ze planz" from?
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Hi I purchased the armoured bridge from Shapeways the same time as yourself.
Can you tell me what type of paint preparation you performed on your bridge.
Graham
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To answer a few questions:
Props are outward turning.
I treated the Shapeways bridge with filler primer as they recommen and sanded down most of the ridges. I havent got rid of them all but I wasn't worried about that as the real armour wouldn't have been totally smooth. I then used enamel paint and used washes for weathering. You'll need to add a fair bit of detail to the bridge to complete it. I found the bridge stong and easily drilled for hand rails, etc.
As regards whether a 1/35 E-boat or a 1/24 E boat a few things to consider:
a. 1/24 E boat is 57" long and is quite heavy, is your car big enough?
b. The 1/35 will work out cheaper in the long run, I'd allow around £400 to £500 for the 1/24 depending how much you make or buy, could even be more depending on detail and working functions built in to it.
c. The 1/24 is a semi-kit build whilst the 1/35 is a complete kit with some pretty detailed after market parts.
d. If building a 1/24 S100 I'd advise buying the 1/72 Revell kit, around £20 and use it as a reference model, I found it invaluable, resizing from 1/72 to 1/24 just mulitply by 3.
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Thanks re the Rotation direction
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Have you had her on the water yet or any idea what amps the 800's Pull as I want to use an action p102 and thats ony 15A per motor
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Although now almost finished except painting of hull and main deck, she will not see the water until next year now. I have no idea what amps the motors will pull except those advertised by the manufacturer, see comodrills website. I have fused everything at 15 amps. So we await sea trials with interest.
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Cheers if I'm afloat sooner with the same motors will let you know if you need a bigger Fuse :}
Though these are handy for pre sailing trials
http://www.4-max.co.uk/gt-mini-voltage-current-meter.htm (http://www.4-max.co.uk/gt-mini-voltage-current-meter.htm)
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I've also used Action electonics.
I've used the P94 twin ESC/mixer for the outer shafts and the P80 ESC for the centre shaft. The P80 drives the P100 Noisy thing which is amplified by the P97 amplifier with a 4" speaker at 6watts. I've also used the Action distibution board and fuse boards I've placed fuses before the ESCs and also after ESCs to protect the motors, possibly OTT, but I'm a belt and braces man.
The motors have Action's large motor RFI suppression kits and each motor is earthed to the prop tube.
I look forward to hearing of your sea trials.
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Had a short trial this morning only using 2 what I believe are Johnson's on 8.4v bog standard 3 blade props very good speed on just that.THEN on the way back in steering went linkage on rudders had come off no harm done.
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First run today Deadbeat on 3x 850's and 3 x45 Raboesch props battery 2x 6v 3.3mha in series still have to go flat out for decent speed not goog enough for to scale .Methinks battery needs rethink as I did already try her on just two props whilst awaiting the the third and she was faster.Not great on electrics but methinks that says when on 3 props the extra battery power taken negates the prop speed of just two if its alow powered battery probably wrong must experiment more. dont want to go Lipo unless forced to
She turns well very responsive
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A nice big capacity 3cell Lipo would do you proud in there
Something like this one
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11939__Turnigy_nano_tech_6000mah_3S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html?strSearch=3s%206000
Or depending on the way your Motors are setup a separate smaller capacity for each motor
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Thanks E2V I may end up VERY reluctantly going lipo after I have tried all the variants I can but definitely not messing around with seperate motor supplies and esc's
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Thanks E2V I may end up VERY reluctantly going lipo after I have tried all the variants I can but definitely not messing around with seperate motor supplies and esc's
You won't regret it!
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You won't regret it!
I hope not coz I know where you live :}
Seriously though I have ordered one albeit not the one you showed I did have a look at it again this morning and while I was looking they popped up a reduction of about £3 so I went for it till I saw the sods wanted £16 for shipping it >:-o I know they cant use Royal Mail but that takes the biscuit . Will reprt back when I get and try this other one
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OK today did a static run test in my pond using the LIpo albeit not fully charged just 12v and a suspect Lipo
Physical assessment full throttle nearly pulled me arm off
Electric LIpo No throttle 12V
Full throttle drops to 9.8 V and pulling 24Amps
Nimh No throttle 13 V
Full Throttle drops to 8.8 V pulling 18 amps and
me arm still in its socket
are these the sort of variances one should expect
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It could be that 18amps is the max current that the nimh pack can push
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Would that be the likely reason for the lack of speed I am moaning about