Welcome Seathug, why dont you knock together a Springer from local junk and with a local tug style top while you wait for your choice of tug to arrive. There are a few tuggies on Mayhem that will chime in with advice regarding choice of kit. Is shipping to your part of the world major factor, perhaps plans only might be less expensive.
Oh well, they come in whatever shape , colour or flavour you choose to make them, just like Howard Johnsons :} You`ll need SOME woodworking experience whatever you choose. Good luck and be sure to post your build pictures...anything you want to know just ask the tuggers on here. O0
I can tell ya this island sucks
you hardly see anyone playiing with boats
wehave a few hobby stores but no boats hahahahha
im hoping if they see me in waikiki beach with a tugboat
I can convinced them. To get also hehehhe
Hi stan
we have a couple of hobby stores
but they dont carry boats
arizona is a popular tourists spot
but for someone who lives next door
its boring O0
I like the rotterdam but planking?
I might be able to put it together but glazzing
hehehe I dont know how
I can tell ya this island sucks
you hardly see anyone playiing with boats..
marksmodelbits.com do a nice little tug,a semi kit.they sail very well in most weathers .....tony
Hi Seathug,
I know you are looking for a kit but you might still be interested in this - a real tug that worked at Pearl Harbor in the 1940s. It's a scratch build, but you never know, in a year or two..... :-))
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3416-hoga-yt-146-by-capnbob-small-196-navy-yard-tug/
Good luck with finding your tug.
Greg
Yes, the prop should just screw on to the shaft. You shouldn't need any extension or adapter. Did you buy them both from Harbor Models? If so, give them a call/e-mail and tell them your problem. I am sure they will sort things out.
If you bought the prop and the shaft separately from other suppliers, you might need to accept that you have to sort things yourself. Do you know the size of thread on the shaft and the prop? If you ordered parts with the same thread then someone has sent you the wrong part.
Good luck
Greg
Hi Seathug
It looks like they have given you the wrong prop/shaft combination. Props and shafts are supplied with various size threads and when replacing either you have to specify which size you require, if you look at any suppliers website you will see they are listed as M3, M4, M5 etc. which denotes the thread size.
With any luck when the manufacturers get back to you they will be able to correct the problem.
Graham
Looks like the wrong props to me.
You need kort props for max efficiency.
If the shafts are M4 thread, then a pair of
M4 Kort props are what you need.
Ned
Topic renamed :-)
In HAWAII you have guys who maintain yachtsHi gazou
These guys have cartridges of glue to repair and fix the windows of boats
You can stick everything on everything, and that reflects.
I make eight kits MODEL SLIPWAY, I stuck all my decks with this glue and I have never had problem, I also stuck of the PVC on the hull with no problem at all.
It is good for the big solid and tight collages(stickings).
That catches up the space.
You put it generously and you cut what exceeds with a cutter when it is dry
Ok now im really confused
Someone told me I should go brushless
Its the best motor to run on the aziz
Like the turnigy
I dont understand the part of the esc needs to be programmed?
Should I go brushless of I should just go with the recommended power gear for this aziz
The motor ill be using on my aziz
Robbe Geared Motor
5.5:1 12Volt
4mm Shaft
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/rustler333/gearedmotor_zps50af80fb.jpg)
2 of these and
1marine viper esc
Hi ken thanx for your reply
I just hope harbormodels has what I need to connect it
This what I found on their site
http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/main_pages/propulsion.htm (http://www.harbormodels.com/site08/main_pages/propulsion.htm)
Sailing your boat in the sea?
Are you serious!
That would worry me mate....
N
There is a Youtube video somewhere of an Aziz 'at sea'. German IIRC, probably from a year or two ago. Might be worth searching it out.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r509/rustler333/t_c8011_zps46c0fc42.jpg)
Can someone tell me where I can order
A 4mm threaded couplers inserts?
Been looking around harbormodels but cant find any
Oh, I see. I thought they were threaded 4mm (mine are), but reading the bit above it does look like they are all grub-screw types.
If HM supplied the kit/propshafts I'd get in touch and explain the problem - they may have a solution.
You could try getting Huco ones from someone else (I think mine are Huco, but not sure now) but it's possible they have a slightly different spline and might not fit. (But you could always order a complete Huco coupling with the right ends and put the HM set away for another project.)
This aziz will sail on the beach so im kind of worried about water getting in
But incase I did put on those capacitorsNo and no. Even if the motor has suppressor capacitors built inside it adding more externally won't hurt.
And my motor doesn't need it
Will it hurts the motor?
That's what I would like to know
If the motor doesnt need capacitor and I still add it on
Will it make any difference on the motor
Now I need to order an esc
Someone suggested a p94 esc for the motors and p93 esc for the bow thruster
Man the only one that carry those esc is from uk and im from hawaii
the mail is going to be hella expensive
It's actually two ESCs and a very clever mixer all in the one box - and there's the extra ESC in as much as the P93 reduces the voltage down from the main battery for your bow thruster. So your $200 is buying you three speed controllers and a mixer. Even the Chinese don't have a product which will do all that.
>3000 other customers can't all be wrong. 8) And Hawaii is about as far as you can get from the UK without starting on the way back!
Just do it.
DM
Hello
just to through a curve ball. I dont rate action at all. I am not saying they there not good but personally (had a few of there ese) i think there is better. I use Mtronics Viper marine . Since you live in Hawaii your nearest suppler may Hobby King. If I was you I would get my motor and props set up Then run them on a few different voltages noting performance and current pull then look at ESC. You might find your bow thruster can only run at 7.2vmax and your main drive runs best at 12v. once you have your test data you then can make a better judgment on ESC
john
If you solder plugs to the motor wiring, you can make it easier to switch out and try
other options after the fact. It is then just a matter of creating a set of Y plugs that
you can plug into your ESC output wires, and split to the two motors.
Later you can just solder a plug to the additional ESC, and plug a motor into each ESC.
ok2
There are nine different ways of wiring up Aziz illustrated here, depending on what it is you want from the model. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ms.php (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ms.php)There is also an article on the same website called "Do they both go round, mister?" which explains how to operate twin motors. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/art.php (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/art.php)
MTroniks ESCs are fine but they do have a reputation for blowing up for no apparent reason. They are high-frequency units and this means that the motors emit a high-pitched squeal at low speeds. Some folk don't like this. If you are using more than one of them in a model you will need to disable the BEC in all but one of them. Finally they have a setting-up procedure which involves pushing a button while moving the transmitter stick and watching an LED. This isn't that complicated but some folk still have trouble with it, especially in multi-engined models.
In the six years they have been produced ACTion have sold over 3000 P94s and not one of them has been returned with fire damage. There is no setting up - the P94 automatically sets up its own neutrals every time you switch on. One customer has bought eleven of them, so clearly he does "rate" them!
You'll find that the cost of shipping a large model kit is your biggest headache, living at the end of the world as you do. We always advised customers in that position to ask the kit supplier to obtain everything else required to complete the model (e.g. motors, electronics, props, adhesives) and include it in the kit box. That way you're making best use of the shipping volume that you're paying for.
DM
By using p94 and p93 do I need the p92power distribution?Need is a tricky word. You need food, you don't 'need' an Aziz.
Eeeeee! Bit too liberal on the glue there methinks!
Made a lot of work for yourself there grinding it off when it's set....
With. The nut locks back against the prop to prevent it from unscrewing from the shaft. There should also be a washer between the nut and the face of the plastic bearing.
I thread lock my props and put a back nut on, it's probably overkill, but if it saves the boat being stuck in the middle of the lake then it's worth it in my eyes!
Steven
Can someone reccomend a good servoIf you start down that route you will have to ensure that your linkage, connection to the rudder stock and connection/bond between stock and rudder blade are all able to handle that power. If anything slips or gives the best servo in the world is useless.
Im looking for a waterproof high torque metal servo
Incase my rudders get in tangled with seaweeds O0
Hi umi
There are so many controllers out there
Im tired of looking around
There seems to be someone always have something to say about a controllers
Ill just go with the hitec for now
Hopefully itll work for me if not
Ill look for another again :}
CC
I couldn't agree more with Aimee, but she is a very smart cookie and not to be trifled with! The Hitec will do what you need it to do in your Aziz, and a bit extra if/when you want. I recommended it because I know from personal experience that it will work with the ACTion gear you have bought. Radios are like cars - ask ten people what the best car is and you'll get eleven different answers....... 8)
DM
I've got no idea. I just found the picture on Google images, and was hoping it would be of help.
Google turned this up:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Spike/Antji.htm (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Spike/Antji.htm)
Looks like it is glued together.
Convention is that outward turning props are used for best maneuverability (tugs) while inward turning props are best for speed (warships).
I've never used those portholes but I've always understood that you push the transparent parts into the brass rings and then give them a very thin wash of clear varnish inside, which seeps into the very tiny gap all round by capillary action and makes them water-tight.
My father often said me:
" Work with your head you will work less with your hands "
He was right, it avoids many errors O0
Convention is that outward turning props are used for best maneuverability (tugs) while inward turning props are best for speed (warships).
Actually, it's the other way round. Though these days it's not quite so defined as it used to be. Most modern ferries, support vessels etc., do have inboard turning props to aide manoeuvrability. Until fairly recently though, most propellers turned outboard on vessels with twin or quadruple screws. The latest Maersk triple E class do have inboard turn props but, this is because of the increased fuel efficiency this set up apparently gives.Do you think I'm going to argue? Nah. This one has more legs on it than a football crowd and opinion is divided like little else. HMCC Sentinel was definitely set up with 5-blade outward-turning props; I have a photo but I can't put it on here for copyright reasons (it's Vosper's!). All I can say is that my own Aziz was set up as I described and would turn on a tanner. Never tried it propped the other way. Ditto Vliestroom, Al Khubar, Sentinel and Dutch Courage.
To be certain though with a modern build, you really need to see the backend.
LB
:-X (Except that "Nellie" has twin rudders);) which models have cort nozzles and which ones dont ?
DM
Hi daveWhy bother? The idea in the sketch actually works. If you want a "belt-and-braces" solution then just fit collets at the top and the bottom of the rudder. The bit in the middle does nothing.
Ohh I have seen your removable rudder
which I think its smart thing to do :-))
Im still looking for wheel collars that is a bit longer than the regular one
I found similar to that wheelcollars at lowesI've sorted some out for you. Will take a couple of days to get here then maybe a week to get there. SL091R 8SWG Brass Wheel Collets x 4 http://www.slecuk.com/catalogue/Wheels-and-Collets.html (http://www.slecuk.com/catalogue/Wheels-and-Collets.html)
I might just use that one hopefully itll be the same size
I've sorted some out for you. Will take a couple of days to get here then maybe a week to get there. SL091R 8SWG Brass Wheel Collets x 4 http://www.slecuk.com/catalogue/Wheels-and-Collets.html (http://www.slecuk.com/catalogue/Wheels-and-Collets.html)
Assemble two collets and the rudder onto the shaft prior to glueing. Remember to grease the shafts and the set-screws slightly before you get your JBWeld out, and roughen the outsides of the brass with a file to provide a good key for the epoxy. Remove the screws and shaft before the epoxy sets up hard, then grind/file the collets to flair in with the shape of the rudder blade. Make sure the screws are on the outer side of the rudder for easy access, not pointing forward towards the prop!
DM
I dont know i think those beams are flimsy
And the fiberglass is hard I can actually carry heavy things on the cargo bay
In that case I dont really needs it since its a fiberglass
But it seems like everyone one uses them
If you put enough weight on the plastic beams to get near them giving way I'm pretty sure the stern of the boat will be well underwater. People have 'trouble' with water washing the rear deck even at normal waterline and since you are planning to sea-sail I don't think you'll be loading it up any.
It's a scale model. The real things are zinc anodes on a steel hull. On the model those are indeed just for looks - whitemetal blobs to represent what you'd find on the prototype, as are nearly all the other fittings like the winches, handrails, portholes, etc. You don't have to fit any of them, but it won't look 'real' without at least some.
Cool so youre saying I dont need to follow how the aziz looksIt's your kit - you can make the boat look like anything you want. Mine is going a long ways from the Aziz.
Hmmmmm I think the aziz can be one of those
Alaskan crab vessels hahahha
Just kidding
ill try to copy the aziz as much as I can
Plague
May I see your kit?
Can you post a picture of it here?
Thanx
Whoaw nice
Your work is super clean lol
What is that you put inside the superstructure 4 pix?
What are those
Cant continue my beamsDon't you have a handsaw? (http://www.sol.me.uk/icons/pokefun.gif)
Need to get a new dremel wtf >:-o
Sorry, I don't quite see what you are asking. Is it about the picture 'Superstructure 4' ?
Don't you have a handsaw? (http://www.sol.me.uk/icons/pokefun.gif)
yes what is that thing inside the hull?
how many of those your running?Just two - one at each end of the flat bottom area.
Need to order my controller servo battery to complete itExactly which battery is this? Your system needs a battery pack for the transmitter and also a main battery for the boat. The power for the receiver comes from the P102 by plugging in the two-wire flylead (read and black thin wires with black plug moulding) into the receiver where it is marked Batt. A separate receiver battery is not required. Take another look at the wiring diagrams I did for you (Stage 2).
Exactly which battery is this? Your system needs a battery pack for the transmitter and also a main battery for the boat. The power for the receiver comes from the P102 by plugging in the two-wire flylead (read and black thin wires with black plug moulding) into the receiver where it is marked Batt. A separate receiver battery is not required. Take another look at the wiring diagrams I did for you (Stage 2).
We did this at the same time you just beat me
David
I have no idea what the diffrence betwen this two radiosDoes that help? You really must give things a little more thought before you post.
Hitec Optic 6 Sport 6-Channel 2.4GHz Radio System SFE
price 132.00
Hitec Optic 6 Sport 6-Channel 2.4GHz Tx/2 Receivers
the price on this is 175.00
Does that GREEN packet of menthol gold ciggies hide the capacitor anchored to the motor casing?.....................
%) & what will happen to the capacitor between the + & - when you turn the volts on?........Derek
oh dear........ :embarrassed: but I can see that little 10uF capacitor across 12 volts as a smoke bombNope. "103" is the code for 0.01uF and that's a high-voltage disc ceramic cap i.e. just the job for the job. We sold thousands of 'em for that job and never had one blow up. You can fit just about any value from 0.01 to 0.47uF as long as you use a ceramic cap of sufficient voltage. I presume you never bother with them? %) Suit yourself.