Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Steven.T on December 30, 2013, 07:08:31 pm
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Hi guys,
After seeing the free plan in Model boat magazine of Glynn Guests "HMS Tean", a River class Frigate, I decided to give it a go.
My Grandad built a model from one of his previous plans, Paladin I believe it was called. Anyway, he convinced me it was easy enough, and that I should give this one a try. My Grandad bought the balsa wood for me as a Christmas present, how thoughtful! %)
My first scratch build aswell, this could be fun! {-)
Anyway, I made a start on it today. For the first part, which consists of building the bottom of the hull and the framework to support the sides, including the bulk heads. I found it easier to scan the drawing, and use the copy to take measurements etc. Also came in handy for cutting the bulkheads, as I just cut these out of the copy, and drew around onto the balsa.
This bit is quite easy to do if you have a good sharp knife, some decent wood glue, a pencil and a ruler/set square. I also used to pins just to hold the balsa strips in place until the glue goes off.
Right, pictures of where I'm up to now:
Spot the mistake!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1882.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1882.jpg.html)
Duly rectified...
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1883.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1883.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1884.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1884.jpg.html)
Bulkheads in place, checked for square aswell:
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1887.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1887.jpg.html)
Next job is to cut the sides (notice my highly technical terminology here!) and clag them on. Hopefully will get round to it tomorrow!
Thats all for now!
Steven
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Good luck with the build Steven,one thing i would advise you to do is check that the scans printed out the same size i'm saying this as i scanned some and printed out 1:1 and i found a slight difference it may just be my printer but its worth checking. :-))
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Yeah I made sure the prinet was set for 1:1, then measured them after, came out okay thankfully :-))
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Cut the sides out today using the same method of copying the plans and cutting out as a template. All glued and pinned in place, now waiting for glue to set before I start to shape the bow and stern:
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1888.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1888.jpg.html)
And fixed in place:
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1889.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1889.jpg.html)
Might get a bit more done tomorrow once the glue dries off!
Cheers,
Steven
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Good luck with the build I also considered this one but completely occupied with the Hood build at the moment. Will follow your progress and hopefully take full advantage of your build reports
Happy New Year
Vic
%%
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Looking good so far :-))
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Cheers guys! Vic, I'd take this thread more as a how not to do it guide if I were you :-))
Did a little more work today, the bow was pulled in, clamped and glued in place. Took a bit of doing to get it to conform the the curve of the front bulkhead, but got there in the end by using a G clamp as the magazine article suggests.
Next part was to glue the transom at the back, again fairly painless (until a pin slipped and wedged itself in my finger!). The only problem I had here was getting the sides to stay put on the transom until the glue set. The magazine article recommended using kitchen cable wraps, the ones for putting round the top of a plastic bag, however I found I couldn't get these tight enough to successfully hold the sides onto the transom. Instead I used some small cable ties, tied together and pulled just tight enough to hold it together until the glue sets.
After this dried, it was time to add the stern piece, which was just cut slightly over length from the left over 6mm balsa. Still waiting for the glue to go off on this, that's what the battery pack in the last photo is for, bit of weight!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1892.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1892.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1891.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1891.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Steven
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Back again! Just removed the excess from the bow and stern, she looks a bit more like a ship now!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1894.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1894.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1895.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1895.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1896.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1896.jpg.html)
That's all for today!
Cheers,
Steven
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Cracking on with it .... :}
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Certainly am :-))
I have been enjoying this build so far, until I was sanding the transom last night and heard a soft "crack". When I've looked into it, it looks as though using the G clamp to bring the bow into the first bulkhead has stressed the wood on one side of the boat more than the other, resulting in me touching it and it cracking slightly. I've sorted this though, ran a sharp knife down the inside of the bulkhead, freeing the side off, and filled it in with a little wedge of balsa and some slithers. Plenty of wood glue aswell! So, disaster averted, tonight (or last night as it is now after midnight!) I have fixed the propshaft in place, and made the frame, or "plug" as the article describes it, that the superstructure is built up on.
Next up I need to visit the model shop to pick up some bits n bobs to make up the rudder, after which I can fit the rear deck and the front deck.
Anyway, enough waffle, more pics!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1897.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1897.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1899.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1899.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1898.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1898.jpg.html)
Thats all for now!
Cheers,
Steven
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Decks are now on, main deck has been glued to the plug. Getting all the decks to fit was an absolute nightmare. People who are more experienced might have easy ways to do it, but getting a flush fit, not easy! The main removable deck is better, after gluing some small slithers of balsa back in to fill gaps. I do think however, glueing the main deck to its frame has distorted the frame slightly, making it a very tight fit, which I suppose isn't a bad thing, don't want it falling off!
Anyway, started on the superstructure today, again this was fairly fiddly, holding bits together to get them all in, without too much force was tricky!
I also realised the bow of the boat isn't quite straight, looks like the hull framework on one side towards the front is a bit off, which when trying to find the center of the boat and what looks right doesn't really help. But oh well, we learn from mistakes!
Anyway, enough waffling again, pictures!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1901.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1901.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1903.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1903.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1904.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1904.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Steven
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Made more progress with the superstructure, the sides have been clad in thin plasticard to improve the finish, this was quite easy going around the bottom of the superstructure, however doing the bit around the gun turrets that sticks up, and on top of the bridge was an absolute nightmare! I managed to get it to stick around the gun deck, but for the bridge I wasn't happy with it, so ripped it off and replaced it with 2mm balsa instead. Knocked a little gun up today aswell, she is certainly starting to look the part now!
Also got the motor supports glued in, the mount is just a metal one that comes with the motor. The steering servo is also in place, again this was very fiddly to fit, because of its location. It is however one of those micro servos, I didn't realise just how micro they actually are!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1907.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1907.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1906.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1906.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1905.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1905.jpg.html)
Next up I think is to figure out how I'm going to fit the rudder...
Cheers,
Steven
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:-))
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Lookin' good :}
Mark
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That is looking Really good Steven.
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Thanks for the comments guys :-))
Well so much for doing the rudder, I got fed up and ended up making some more guns, I was wondering why they were so fiddly, until I looked at the scale and realised its 1/144. Funny that, my N gauge model railway stuff is 1/148, no wonder its fiddly!
Anyway, I don't think they look too bad. In the magazine pictures it looks like Mr Guest made them from plasticard, but I thought stuff it I'll use balsa!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1910.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1910.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1909.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1909.jpg.html)
Cheers!
Steven
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Well, the rudder is now installed, working correctly aswell!
I've also given the boat a couple of coats of Thomsons water seal. Think it's gonna need a one or two more yet.
Anyway, she should be ready for bathtub trials within a couple of weeks I hope!
On a slight side note, does anyone know if these ships were fitted with Navigation Lights? I'd like to install some if so. Theres a search light up on the bridge I intend to have working, but not sure if warships from WW2 had Nav lights?
Cheers,
Steven
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On a slight side note, does anyone know if these ships were fitted with Navigation Lights? I'd like to install some if so. Theres a search light up on the bridge I intend to have working, but not sure if warships from WW2 had Nav lights?
They had navigation lights but would only switch them on in an emergency until hostilities ceased
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:-))
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Hi there sorry for the separate posting from the picture, as I have been having a lot of bother putting pics on the forum - keeps timing out - anyhoo if you have a look at the pic you will see an arrow pointing at the navigation lights at the side of the bridge. I also believe there are search lights at the stern of the bridge will have a look for some photographs to show these :-) hope this is of some help and I will add I am enjoying watching your build.
Aye
John
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Hi guys, thanks for the info!
Looking at a picture of a River Class here:
http://uboat.net/media/allies/warships/ca/frigate_river_hmcs_orkney.jpg
Looks like there is something on the side of the bridge as in your picture John, I take it this is where I would need to put mine?
As for the search lights, on the plans I have here there are just two up on the bridge, but these are not propper ship plans, just the ones for the model.
Thanks again
Steven
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'Searchlights' at the back of the bridge could possibly be signalling projectors.
Open bridge ships usually had the flag deck level and aft of the bridge.
20 inch signal projectors could also be used as searchlights.
Never seen an actual stand alone searchlight on a warship that I served on.
Ned
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http://www.jproc.ca/rrp/rrp2/visual_lights.html
Alink to projectors
Ned
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It's nice following this thread as I have built GG's HMS Ivanhoe a long time ago so I know what you're going through. One cautionary note I'll make is keep the top weight down. Good luck I'll follow the thread through.
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Cheers guys, Deadbeat, I am watching what I am putting on top. I have substituted some card bits for balsa just for ease of construction though, and the mast is just from some spare rod and wire I had laying around in the drawers!
Anyway here's some more pictures, not the greatest my phone camera doesn't like the kitchen lights and my cameras battery is flat!
I've taken the exposed rudder linkage arm option, as GG says in the article, putting it under the deck (which isn't very deep and not removeable) could be a regret later on if there are any problems! Once it's out on the water I doubt anyone is going to notice...
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG1919.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG1919.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG1917.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG1917.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG1916.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMAG1916.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Steven
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With my HMS Ivanhoe I think I overpowered it, too big a prop/motor too much torque so when in a turn it lurched frighteningly, one side was worse than the other because of the prop's rotation. On a straight run the bow wave was perfect it cut through the water as any destroyer does.
So the motor/prop combination is important, I'm afraid trial and error will get you there.
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I have just gone with the motor as reccomended in the article, which is a 385 and just a standard 3 blade prop. only using a 4.8v battery so it's not exactly going to fly, maybe I should put a 380 in, fast response frigate? {-)
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Got some more detailing done today, It's amazing how adding something so simple such as lifeboats and the bridge supports really change the look of the model!
The little life rafts were just small strips of balsa glued to some card, nothing flash but it does the trick I think! The two larger boats were carved out of one block each, with the wire bent to form the davits.
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260114.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260114.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260113.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260113.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260115.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260115.jpg.html)
The bridge supports are just made from some plasticard strip I had lying around!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260116.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260116.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260123.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260123.jpg.html)
Also, I have found my 1.8mm LED's and these are now in place on the bridge top, about to go into the garage now and solder them up.
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260121.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260121.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260126.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260126.jpg.html)
That's all for now!
Cheers,
Steven
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Okay, this might be a little bit over the top but, let there be light!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260131.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260131.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260130.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260130.jpg.html)
I might see if Blackpool council want it for the Illuminations next year....
Cheers,
Steven
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Cool, keep up the good work
cheers
vnkiwi :-))
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And now she is all sealed, well,hopefully at least, the primer has been applied. Rather lightly I might add on the superstructure!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1929.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1929.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1930.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1930.jpg.html)
Hopefully will give her bath trials this weekend, and see if the battery I have bought is going to be too heavy or not!
Cheers
Steven
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Well, its had a bath...
I still need to get the stern down to water level as its too high out the water, but the hull itself floats nicely with the help of a little ballast.
However as soon as I add the superstructure, the boat seems to lose sense of which way is up. It rolls over to one side, doesn't capsize, but the deck gets very close to the water...
I've tried counteracting it with ballast on the other side, but then it rolls straight over that way...
Now, I can't understand why its doing this. The superstructure itself is very light, light enough I wouldn't have thought it would influence which way up the boat sits.
Could it be I need more weight in the bottom of the boat?
Any help here here appreciated, I've never had to ballast before this one!
Cheers,
Steven
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Get as much ballast low on the keel and around the centre line.
Bob
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Looks like I'm going to have to go buy some more ballast then!
I've put in the pack I had, underneath the motor along the center line. The battery is in the front compartment, even with the ESC and the receiver in, it still doesn't hold itself.
I'm just hoping it doesn't need that much weight that it sits below it's true waterline...
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Are you using a 4.8 volt battery pack as this is very light so not surprised more ballast needed.
Do you know any plumbers or old tyre weights that are sometimes dumped from tyre depots.
Bob
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I am using a 4.8v pack, however it's a sub C type, so plenty more weight than the normal AA's as the article suggests!
My Dad reckons he can get hold of the tyre weights from somewhere at work hopefully!
I just hope adding the extra weight will help, I could do without having to butcher the superstructure to remove weight from there, not that theres that much more there than in the article. I have used balsa in some places instead of card, but the balsa isn't exactly heavy...
Cheers,
Steven
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I built Deans HMS Nubian and had the same problem. The main issue with my Nubian and your boat is that as single screw model all the weight is on the centreline, batteries, motor, ESC etc. so only a tiny immbalance of weight caused it to list. Nothing I could do helped until I realised the problem was that everything was on the centreline giving it very poor transverse stability. I then experimented by placing ballast as low as possible but as far apart athwartships (port and starboard) as possible, and making sure I kept the correct trim longitudinally, and it worked (I used fishing weights). Adding even more ballast on the centreline will only make the matter worse. Unfortunately the beam of your model is quite small but I would still recommend a bath test by placing weights either side as far apart as possible, but also check that there is no immbalance of weight in your superstructure.
When I built GG's HMS Ivanhoe I actually added a weighted skeg below the vessel. It helped but as I mentioned before it still heeled over in the turn but that was an overpower/torque issue.
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Having gone through your photos again I notice your rudder servo is on one side, did you compensate for this with weight on the other side? This may account for the list having a preference to one side trather than the other.
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Cheers Deadbeat, I'll give this a try later on.
I was countering the weight of the servo by placing 5 grams extra on the other side, as I say I could get the Hull balanced, just adding the structure made it lean!
Suppose I should go fill the bathtub up again!
Cheers,
Steven :-))
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Do you know any roofers?
Offcuts of flashing could be used along the bottom of the hull?
Bob
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Well, the good news, she floats and stays upright! :D
The bad news, I think the wind is going to be too strong for sailing tomorrow! That and I still need to wire it all up...
Anyway, it took 350 grams of weight (excluding the motor, servo, ESC and battery pack), with 270 grams in the stern area alone, just to get it to stay upright, but it definitely knows which way is up now!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P2080135.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P2080135.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P2080136.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P2080136.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P2080138.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P2080138.jpg.html)
And a quick video showing it righting it self from quite a way over!
http://youtu.be/5soy61wnXq0
Hopefully I should have it all wired up and running by the end of the weekend. Still need to add the little details on the deck at the back and front, then time for the final paint colours and picking the details out, and, well that will be it!
Cheers,
Steven
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Well done on the stability front. Take care when you do trials especially on the turn, gently gently should be your philosophy. Your rudder area looks quite large for the model so you need to gain experience on the influence of the rudder especially when hard over. You will probably find that it will heel over more on one side than the other and this will be due to the influence of the props direction of rotation, again take care if you're tempted to do a hard over turn at top speed - a difficult one to resist I know.
Good luck
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Cheers Deadbeat,
I wired it up this morning and took it to the lake with me, it was really windy and choppy, however there was one sheltered corner when I managed to sail it.
It does roll fairly easily, moving the rudder whilst moving seems to have a big influence to make it roll , however when going in a straight line she runs quite nicely.
I decided to walk it back round to the choppier side of the lake, where it was very windy and choppy. It coped exactly as I expected, the wind was just far too strong. So I think I'm going to have to return on a very calm day to see what it really handles like!
I'll upload some pictures and a bit of video later,
Cheers,
Steven
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River class, are they based on the Castle class?, the picture looks deceptibly similar to the upgraded version of a corvette. loving this though.
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Don't be afraid to reduce the blade area of the rudder, I had to with my HMS Ivanhoe. Trial and error is the name of the game here!
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Warspite, according to Wikipedia, the River class was the succescor to the Flowers, and the castle's came after the Rivers, but not directly based on them http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castle-class_corvette#Design
Deadbeat, I think that could be one of my options. I would like to try it out on a calmer day before I start butchering anything, as todays would have been nothing short of a hurricane in 1:1 world! I suppose the advantage of using an off the shelf rudder is that if I do mess it up, the model shop is only in town...
Cheers,
Steven
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Heres a couple of photos and a bit of video on Sunday just to give an impression of how it went. As I said before, it was very windy!
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMG_2426.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMG_2426.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMG_2428.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMG_2428.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMG_2430.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMG_2430.jpg.html)
(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMG_2438.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMG_2438.jpg.html)
And the video, which was shot in the calmer part of the lake, the above photo was the choppy part!
http://youtu.be/04Z9bKSQ614 (http://youtu.be/04Z9bKSQ614)
Cheers!
Steven
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Hi Steven,
That's rather frightning to see the model heel so much in the wind...
I would consider a keelfin and bulb from a Micro Magic to calm the hull down.
I've seen it done a number of times with great succes.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Steven,
I've been following your build with interest as I was also thinking of building this model but at the bigger scale (37") Re the comments on putting weight on either side of your boat, I think I would be tempted to add a little bit more at the sides but front and back or fore and aft should I say.
I've built the Matchbox corvette and probably ballasted it a bit too much but it's looks quite good out on the water, there are a few pics on here I think under wee Corvette in rough seas.
Anyway, well done and thanks for posting your build as it will help me enormously if I ever get around to-it !!! Still working on the new shed and it's nearly gardening season ;-/
Regards
Crock
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Well done.
It looks great on the water. A couple of heart stopping moments with the wind though ok2
All the best
Sandy
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Hi guys,
Had it out again today, the lake was like a millpond (well, before I got the crash tender out anyway...) so it was perfect for trying the frigate out.
The steering is a little bit iffy, steering sharper one way more than the other, I think I can correct this as I am not sure if the servo arm was centered correctly. I'll sort this out and see if it helps any.
As others have hinted, she does heel quite easily, especially when the rudder is over-used. Top speed is fairly nimble without being too slow or too fast. Not much use in reverse, a lot of water finds it's way in, I think this is coming up the prop-shaft when running in reverse, and a small amount coming through the rudder hole on the deck top.
She does seem to sit quite low on the water, especially when looking at the stern, where the deck is a lot lower anyway.
But I think a few tweaks to the servo/rudder and the finishing coats of paint and it should be nearly done!
Crock, I look forward to seeing if you do make a larger scale version, after building this I would love to make one the same design but about 3 or 4 times the size, unfortunately I don't really have the space!
As a side note, does anyone know a suitable battleship grey colour, preferably water-based for ease of painting...?
Cheers,
Steven
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My local model shop had some interesting variations of grey in, I used them for my corvette and also to repaint my Perkassa and they were called ..... ??????
Just found an old pot "Revelle Aqua Pot" Acylic paint. I did use another make as well BUT I think it was the Revelle which was the better of the two, certainly better for a paint brush as the other make was quite thin, probably better for spraying. hope this helps
Crock :-)
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As regards paint, I know its probably not absolutely accurate but for convenience I've used Halfords spray grey primer on my WWII models and then covered with a satin varnish for hard wearing. B&Q do a good spray can of satin varnish check that its OK for exterior use.
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Painted the decks grey and green today,strange how much it seems to.change the model by adding a bit of green!(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/IMAG1951.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/IMAG1951.jpg.html)
Hoping to sail it again tomorrow wind permitting!
Cheers,
Steven
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Little bit of extra colour makes all the difference
:-)
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(http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt102/ste234/P1260130.jpg) (http://s602.photobucket.com/user/ste234/media/P1260130.jpg.html)
Cheers,
Steven
I see you're taking your time over it!
<*<
Excuse my feeble humour, did you enjoy building it? That's the important thing.
p.s. the Carley floats? Find some thick wire and make ovals from it for them. :-))
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Cheers guys, Yes I certainly enjoyed building it, had a couple of moments where I felt like throwing it out but I kept reminding myself it's my first scratch build... I would love to have the time (and more importantly space!) to build a bigger version as in the magazine article, where it is suggested it could be scaled up to almost a meter long!
Just had to google what a carley float was, great tip, thanks for the idea!
Cheers,
Steven
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According to what I have read and heard about the smaller escort vessels as used in convoys, they rolled a fair bit given their shape and size so I would not worry too much beyond making sure she stays as dry as you can make her without wrapping her in clingfilm!
Scratchbuilding anything gets more involved the nearer to completion that you get as I find that detailing is so much more time consuming than the initial block work. My experience is from model making where a tank hull can be scratched in a good day while the detail etc takes another four.
My rule with any model making is always have a sharp blade, measure twice or more before marking and do not be afraid to bin the first attempt if it goes wobbly as the second time, it will go quicker and you can add experience of building the first to the ideas you invent for the second and subsequent attempts.
Oh, and take a magazine! Lots of useful info there, though I think you may already take Model Boats!
Your River class is a lovely looking model in and out of the water Spike. I wish you much fun in your future projects. Space is an issue for me as well, so I will stick to short or small models.