Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: Neil on January 02, 2014, 11:36:53 pm
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This will be a photo only build log in the stages that I can remember as I built it..........
although the actual model build only took 3 months from start to finish, it was mainly down to using "chunky" sized materials because of the size of the model at 72" long and the purpose it was built for.
Stage one....cutting the hull for the bilge keels.
As yet still sorting the photos and will hopefully be able to post some tomorrow.
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Is it the boat that sailed Loch Ness Niel?
john
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yes John, the same. neil. :-))
now apparently been sold to a collector in Ireland.
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Looking forward to seeing the build again. Started on mine again today. Been cleaning up the superstructure, thought had a head start as windows were already cut out. Unfortunately all cut too small so have been redoing them most of today. I'll be starting a build blog soon.
Dave. :-))
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I have sorted a lot of other photos that were clogging my "browse" facility so will be able to start on that shortly. neil.
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I have endeavoured to put the photo graphs of the build in order and as such hope that they will be self explanatory.
All fittings used were my own design and as such are now ( or where) the domain of Speedline Models and anyone wanting fittings of those used ( other than the scratch built items) should contact Flundle (Speedline Models) on this forum, and not me!!.
The first batch shows the cutting of the hull by jigsaw and fixing of bilge keels made from 1.8mm marine birch faced ply ising 2 part epoxy and a final sealing inside hull using grp matting and resin.
this model was built to take some punishment on Loch ness and so all items relating to the hull were over "engineered"
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next stage was to fit the battery trays to house the massive amount of batteries that doubled up as ballast as well as power for this endurance run......in all 140 amps of batteries in an array of 13 x 7 amp hour and 1 x 24 amp hour batteries were all harnessed up to give enough power and ballast to take the boat down to waterline and also the 23 mile run up loch ness( that's another story though, and pity the motors I fitted weren't up to the job)
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all innards ( and there were not many) were fitted before the deck beams were added........these were the rudder servo and a bilge pump( I envisaged rough weather)
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More will be added later today. :-))
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Dont Go to fast Neil,Dave wont be able to keep up with you lol
Mick F
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Cutting wash ports and fixing longitudinal deck support stringers.
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Back filling anchor recess hollow moulding in the hull of 70 - 002 as this wasn't a feature of that boat, and also filling and smoothing the upper bulwarks that are visible above the deck, using polyester filler.
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deck support beams being added as per need....there was no set pattern to this process and being a beefed up version "over engineering" took place.
on certain of these shots you can also see on the cross beams, slips of "wedge" shaped timbers to give the deck a camber when finally fitted.
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More deck beams??
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and finally today attaching the capping rails.
these shots also show clearly where the lower rubbing strake has been ground off( not needed on this hull) and filled. But before grinding off it was re-enforced on the inside of the hull with grp matt and resin
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Good to see your build again Neil.
After spending most of the weekend trying to correct all the mistakes on superstructure made by guy I had it off I've come to conclusion it'll be better to get a replacement one. I've sent an email of to Models By Design, hopefully they can help me out.
Plenty of other work to be done, just a bit annoying to waste a weekend trying to correct someone else's botch job. No wonder they didn't want it....
Dave. :((
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Thats a bit sad Dave.I can understand how you feel,not having the time most of us have to do your modelling.I am sure Andy Griggs will sort you out with something.
Good Luck,
Mick F
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Good to see your build again Neil.
After spending most of the weekend trying to correct all the mistakes on superstructure made by guy I had it off I've come to conclusion it'll be better to get a replacement one. I've sent an email of to Models By Design, hopefully they can help me out.
Plenty of other work to be done, just a bit annoying to waste a weekend trying to correct someone else's botch job. No wonder they didn't want it....
Dave. :((
what exactly was wrong with the cabin, Dave...post some pics and see if it's rectifiable.
neil.
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Running gear.......making of a light weight rudder from brass3.0mm rod and 3 layers of plasticard.
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Prop shafts and "A" frames, silver soldering and fixing.
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cutting templates and decks in sections and laying onto beams.........glued with aliphatic resin and held in place with clips, pegs and old batteries.
including fitting the combings for the cabin.
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what exactly was wrong with the cabin, Dave...post some pics and see if it's rectifiable.
neil.
Hi there Neil, lots of the detail has been sanded off on closer inspection. All bolt heads etc. It's easier just get another one and start again.
Dave. {:-{
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Fitting hawse holes and bow anchor hawse hole.
the tube for the bow anchor hawse hole was made from an off cut from the bottom weight of a roller blind.
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next it was the superstructure that needed the window cut outs making......using masking tape and a 2mm drill bit before cutting out and filing to lines.
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the flying bridge was also cut out in the same way, (see photos above) and then the interior console made from plasticard
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and then it was down to the mast.........a mixture of low and medium melt silver solders and soft solder to fabricate it.......plus if I remember rightly, some superglue as well.
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cutting, reinforcing and joining the two halves of the D class rib
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and adding the rest of the bits, deck spray sheet and transome
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cradle for the lifeboat............the two ends are resin castings from Speedline.
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Some detailing now with fittings of my own moulds ( Now held by Speedline Models)
the rack for the liferaft canister and the base for the anchor windlass were scratch built from plasticard from photos and plans.
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Engine room air ducts, cabin vents and steps are all resin castings held by Speedline Models
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Hullo Neil.....just a little off track :D
1. is the studded anchor chain fusion welded between each link? & also on each side of the inner link stud piece?
2. what is the wire hoop size diameter? ...or links per inch?
Derek
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Neil,
Just noticed the anchor chain in the photos of the windlass.Can I ask where you got it from please? Its the first time I have seen correct profile heavy chain in miniature!
Mick F
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hi guys........yes the studded link anchor chain is fused between each link both front and back, and I think that that one was about 4 or 5 links per inch.
It comes in different sizes from Caldercraft Jotika down to small sizes......is cheap for what it is, sold by the meter or half meter and is a nice quality chain.
http://www.shipwrightshop.com/shop/contents/en-uk/d144_Chain.html
neil