Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: tweety777 on January 14, 2014, 09:03:46 am
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Hello guys,
After my account got lost several years ago and since I had topics on 3 other forums I didn't bother fixing it.
Those of you who hang around here for several years might well remember my previous topic which seems to have been lost as well.
Since my last post here a lot has happened.
I started realizing my dream of having everything apart from the crew that moves or does something aboard the real ship and can be seen from outside will be working on my model as well.
For this I started looking for other means of controlling a shipmodel then a standard transmitter.
Via a friend I ended up with Arduino micro controllers.
I bought such a device and started experimenting.
Soon I found myself trying to control the boat with it.
It was then (now almost excactly a year ago) that I made a disastrous test trial.
The wiring for the servos and ESC's were doubled so I could, in theory, control the model using either Arduino or the standard transmitter.
The doubles took away the control over the model and soon the helodeck was blown overboard and later even the superstructure (which didn't look all that good) went overboard.
I needed to get a canoe to get the hull back from the other side of the lake.
A few months later I had a test trial making me the first person to ever control a ship model using a laptop.
The laptop control proved too slow for any use apart from quite waters with no-one around.
Then I decided to make myself an instrument panel which has room for much more controls and acts like a standard transmitter though it can get signals back and can control waaayyyyy more functions, the new systems limit is the imagination of the person working with it.
That made it ideal for what I wanted, every single function will have it's own control.
Just before last Christmas I decided to sand the hull so I could start detailing.
That is when I found out how ashamingly bad I started this project.
When I found out the worst part I decided that what I had would be kids toys so they could destroy it and I would build an entirely new model and I would do it good this time!
My goal had always been a real good and mostly realistic model with as many functions as either the controls could handle or the real ship could offer, whichever comes first.
The aim is to have a model that can hardly be distinguished from the original when one sees a photo or a movie, even when comparing movies of the ship whilst doing what she was build to do.
That's enough talk, here are a few photo's of the new hull, up to now as I've only been working on it a little less then 2 weeks.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3049.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3050.jpg)
Construction for the new hull has been sawed out a little rough because I had decided I would sand the entire thing to make sure the plates and planks would fit properly.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3055.jpg)
A first for me, I actually used a building board.
This building board was placed on my flat desk when the construction was being glued, which is shown in photo's that will be placed below.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3209.jpg)
Possible arrangement of the aft engine room though I still need to take the Speed 500E's out of the old hull, the engines seen here are the Johnsons that will power the 2 bow thrusters.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3210.jpg)
Here the construction has been glued.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3211.jpg)
And here with the maker.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3213.jpg)
With the old hull behind it.
The new hull is almost 2cm less wide as the first hull was made wider because of the keel in the middle causing the frames to be placed against the keel and then the hull plating was applied and then some more and that all was build on a incorrect measurement leaving me with a wider hull by any means.
On other forums I was told I shouldn't have taken the hull off the building board but I should have applied the first plates and planks first.
Though I tend to go that way I'm still open for other options.
Greetings Josse
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Thought it would be nice to show a photo of the instrument panel which will partly replace my standard transmitter.
I say partly replace as the instrument panel is so large that I will rebuild my transmitter with Arduino guts and quite some added controls so I can sail in a light mode meaning I can't control all the functions but enough for when demonstrations are not needed and taking the instrument panel with me would be too much work.
(https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/p206x206/1185337_201128263395099_1614532151_n.jpg)
This shows the azimuth controls under construction.
I'm going to use the possiblities to quite a high degree so the azimuths will be able to turn at least 4 full circles, I'll try to make it even more, the pots I have now support 10 turns but the software library only supports 4 turns.
I'll use stepper motors to steer the azimuths so there will be no limitations to the rotation in the boat.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-XIg9Cuborkc/UkKesFXxXII/AAAAAAAADTM/fhRmSOU8CUM/w800-h547-no/DSC_9282.jpg)
Initial test with PVC pipes as support which was by far not stable and strong enough so it has been replaced by 3 wooden planks mounted (by means of screws to make it fit in my car alongside the boat) so I can put my legs underneath the panel whilst sitting in a chair.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iNmUl0ThOBc/UlGI43nQwbI/AAAAAAAADV0/aUEjp6bgtGs/w800-h532-no/DSC_9481.jpg)
This is me behind the panel.
It gives a good impression of the sheer size of it.
(http://www.freireshipyard.com/public/imagenes/barcos/1474a6cf77e7564f07920ec9762239d3.jpg)
This is to give an impression of what it will look like when finished.
Greetings Josse
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So good so far, looking forward to more details and pics in the future. Its going to be one good model. Its interesting that you are using arduino as well, you'll have to include more details of that as you progress as well.
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Hello Brian,
Thanks for the kind words.
For the Arduino I use a program writen by a fellow modeller here in The Netherlands, his program can be found on RCGroups in the homebrew for boats section.
For my use I'll need to adjust the program in some points, for starters controlling the stepper motors will require some modifications to the program.
BTW, it might be nice to give an indication of the number of working functions: it will be over 140, it was about 140 before I decided that the drilling tower and the moonpool doors should be made working as well.
The drilling tower is more then just 1 winch, there's also a crane on top of it.
Greetings Josse
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Glad to see you back in the land of the living Josse - I did wonder what had happened to your build project
Keep the photos coming
Geoff
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Hi
Here is the original thread for those who wish to catch up..
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,16349.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,16349.0.html)
:-))
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The photo's will certainly keep coming, at this point it's likely I'll start planking the hull saturday because I'll start at my new job tomorrow.
The old build log is not very useful anymore apart from showing how not to build a model.
All that is shown there is now scrap but it might well show how much better I'm going on this one, at least, that is my opinion.
Greetings Josse
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The photo's will certainly keep coming, at this point it's likely I'll start planking the hull saturday because I'll start at my new job tomorrow.
The old build log is not very useful anymore apart from showing how not to build a model.
All that is shown there is now scrap but it might well show how much better I'm going on this one, at least, that is my opinion.
Greetings Josse
Hi Josse
I Disagree about the old log, The old log shows how you have progressed to this stage that you at now ( Ie Starting Again), In a way your learning curve, I know many disagreed with the way you were doing things but you did it your way and that is absolutely fine, as it was your build. Even on the old build you realised certain aspects of the build were wrong and started to correct them..The sign of a true builder.. :-))
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Topic renamed. :-)
( Old topic here: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,16349.0.html )
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Hi Josse
I Disagree about the old log, The old log shows how you have progressed to this stage that you at now ( Ie Starting Again), In a way your learning curve, I know many disagreed with the way you were doing things but you did it your way and that is absolutely fine, as it was your build. Even on the old build you realised certain aspects of the build were wrong and started to correct them..The sign of a true builder.. :-))
Hello Longbuild,
Thanks for the kind words.
I have certainly been improving and I will remain improving for as long as I keep building models and actually that is 1 of the reasons why I like this hobby.
Hello Martin,
Thanks for renaming the topic.
Greetings Josse
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Here is the real thing:
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I agree with Long build about your original build...............you were scorned by some................but you stuck to your guns, and proved what you had to, that you can build, and what is more, you certainly know your stuff with regards to electronics.............something that I am totally hopeless about.
You have come through, and good on you for doing so.......proving the critics and doubters that you have the guts and stamina to win through. :-)) :-)) :-))
it's nice to see you back on here and hope that you will have a model to be proud of very soon.
best regards, neil.
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Those are some very helpful photo's!!!
I hadn't yet found them on the internet but that is how the rear deck will look when she's finished.
Thanks for the kind words folks!
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3225.jpg)
Added another longitudenal girder, the second last of the horizontal girders.
I will add 1 or 2 vertical girders in the stern as the depth is too shallow here for the longitudenal girders, this was adviced by a friend.
When all girders have been placed I will sand the construction to prepare for the planking after which I will first make and place the 4 plates, 2 on each side which will run from the bow all the way to the stern which is why I will use 2 plates after each other.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3226.jpg)
Placed the last horizontal girder.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3361.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3362.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3363.jpg)
It's going to be pretty full inside the hull...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3364.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3366.jpg)
First frames have been prepared for the plating which proved to be a challenge to properly show on a photo.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3484.jpg)
The first hull plate has been cut out, then put in a both full of hot water for an hour and then bended into as near the final shape as I could carefully get.
The glue hasn't been used yet, first I want to make sure the plate can get into the final shape.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3485.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3488.jpg)
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3526.jpg)
Sawed the second hull plate and put it in a bath with hot water to prepare it for bending.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3527.jpg)
The first plate has been glued in place and the second is being bended into it's final shape.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3528.jpg)
The rear plates have both been drawn on the wood and will be sawed out tomorrow.
All plates have been measured with a small room for error.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse,
Good to see you back on Model Boat Mayhem.
Have followed your builds from day one, both on here and other forums.
You should be proud of all you have achieved, and are still achieving.
You have shown the tenacity and willingness to learn that will stand you well in your lifes journey.
Keep up the good work, and will be following your journey once again with great interest.
I like your lateral thinking, very original, keep it up, and has taught me a thing or to as well
cheers
vnkiwi
:-))
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Thanks for the compliment!
If I'm not mistaken I'm following your builds with great interest as well, along with many other build logs.
I too take a lot of inspiration from the build logs of fellow modellers, and motivation as well for that matter...
Greetings Josse
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Update:
Behind the scenes the planking of the hull continues.
Yesterday I decided to check the hull only to find that the stern is twisted, see the photo's:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3584.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3587.jpg)
The photo doesn't show it all too well but there is a small gap between the tool and the hull plate.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3588.jpg)
This gap is a lot bigger...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3589.jpg)
Yet the rest of the hull is straight...
What can I do to make the stern straight?
Would removing the plates, then add some weight and then reglue the plates be enough?
Or do I need to make an entirenly new stern section?
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3590.jpg)
The bow is straight, fortunately.
Greetings Josse
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Got back from holiday in the Spanish Pyrenees last friday, had great weather, made some challenging walks, went parapenting, canyoning and made a round flight through some valley a bit north of the camping.
I don't know why I'm back already because it's way to beautiful there and I had so much fun but here I am anyways...
Now on to an update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6868.jpg?t=1400499829)
With the help of my brother I took the stern plates loose, then checked where things went wrong and corrected what needed to be corrected and glued the plates back in place with the correct shape.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6870.jpg?t=1400499841)
Because the bow is straight I keep planking the bow, I will actually start with the second layer soon.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6873.jpg?t=1400533905)
Added quite a few planks to the bow.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6874.jpg)
I reached the bilge!!!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6875.jpg)
The first piece of hull planked from deck through keel to deck!!!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6877.jpg)
The grey arrows indicate the closing walls of the tanks as I have planned now.
The middle tank (5 frames long) will contain some 5 kgs of water, ahead and astern are 4 tanks also seperated at the centreline each containing some 1,2kgs of water but these will only be filled when needed.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6879.jpg)
The proud builder and his model.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6885.jpg)
Drilled holes to allow water to flow through the tank!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6886.jpg)
This update is all about completing the first layer of planks at the bow!!!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6887.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6888.jpg)
That's it for today.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6891.jpg)
Visitor!!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6892.jpg)
Today I maked and placed the bottom plate for which I got a splinter 1cm deep in my finger but after a painful experience there's hardly anything left of it now...
The hole at the rear of the plate is for the moonpool which I hadn't planned to build in at the start of this hull but will be build now so I'll need to cut away the construction there.
Greetings Josse
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(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_7056_stitch.jpg?t=1401423949)
Got sidetracked since a room (with balcony) came free which I'm now turning into my very own hobby workshop.
As this is only for hobbying I now have room for at least 4 models of up to 2m long and 40cm wide.
The balcony will be used for working with epoxy, painting and sanding.
If all goes well I might have a pretty much ready workshop today but then I still need to make something out of my bedroom so I'm not finished any day soon.
Greetings Josse
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About a month ago I met a very nice young lady with whom I fell in love.
Now I find myself spending my free time with her very willingly leaving about no time at all for modelling even though my rooms are now finished.
Because my girlfriend is now on holiday I can spend some time on modelling again.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_7737.jpg)
Started working on planking the stern by first removing part of the plates at the stern which were to big to fit...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_7738.jpg)
Planking the second layer on the bow is now down to the waterline and nearing it's end now.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_7740.jpg)
Before I started planking the stern I checked for straightness of the stern as that has been an issue.
I expected to see a small twist but found no proof of a twist so I can now carefully continu building because I have a straight stern!!!!
Greetings Josse
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Celebrated my birthday last weekend and got 2 nice tools which I asked for on advice of some people close to me:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_8102.jpg)
I got a 350W power bench pillar drill which handles drills between 1,5mm and 13mm and has 5 speeds available.
Behind the pillar drill is a 90W table saw which can saw wood up to 40mm thick and metal up to 10mm thick.
Both machines have working tables which can be rotated up to 45 degrees.
These machines will most likely serve me well when hobbying.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_8144.jpg)
Planking the stern has been completed, now I only need to add an plate and then it's all about the bow.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_8459.jpg)
The blocks on the bow have been added.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_8460.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_8461.jpg)
And I started shaping the bow.
Greetings Josse
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shes looking good there tweety keep up the good work :-) nice tools by the way :-)) :-)) :-)) oh and :-)) a happy birthday aswell
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Thanks for the kind words.
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Currently I'm in the process of thinking through how to continue on this build, with the hot topic being making the mold and hull.
I stumbled upon some issues for which I could well use your advice on how to continue best.
Due to the bulb I'm sure I need 2 halfs in order to be able to get the plug and later the final hull out of the mold.
At first I thought I would place a wooden plate just off the centreline, make the first mold, then move the plate to the other side of the centreline and make the other half of the mold.
When thinking this through down to the last detail I can think of I started wandering how I could fixate the plate in such a way that the plug isn´t damaged when removing it (using screws for fixation is no option here) but by which the plate is fixed so well that it can't be moved when making the mold.
Then I decided I'd place the wooden plate in between the 2 halfs of the mold, also when making the final hull but then I'd need to fill the bulb with resin so I can shape the bulb in the say 9mm where the plate will be as this can't be shaped the way the bow is shaped.
Then I thought I could place a plate in the transverse direction somewhere near the middle of the ship where the hull doesn't have any odd shapes like depth markings etc. (the plimsoll marking is usually placed at exactly half length and as that will also be made out of etched plate would not be a good place to make the joint between the 2 molds) but this way the mold might get stuck behind the etched parts when removing the mold.
I thought about making the mold a little flexible on purpose and stiffening the mold when the hull is being made by adding a frame work around it so the mold can be "folded" away from the markings but will be stiff enough when the hull is made.
Please let me know what you think of these methods and should I have missed a method, please feel free to inform me about it.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_8575.jpg)
The bow is slowly being made to the correct shape but there's still a lot to learn as I now have a gap in the bow.
Fortunately this is a plug so filling it up with filler is no big deal but this still isn't how one should want it to be...
Greetings Josse
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The complicated but will give the best mould is to do a four part one. Think of a lengthways crusifix (cross) The two long parts along the keel centre line, essentially dividing the hull into two parts. Then the head of the cross just before the bulb part of the bow. This will allow the mould to be removed in four quarters without damage to the finished hull or bulb.
Otherwise two halves as you describe. I would make one side first, then loosen it and remove. Then re-polish the side it came off and temporarily hold in place with some double sided tape just along the deck edge. The lip you will have formed at the keel will need sealing to stop the resin of the second side running underneath. This can be done with some warmed beeswax, just runny enough so that you can 'paint' it along the gap so that it sets and forms a resin proof seal. Then make your second half.
You mention how to make the divide, if you have the patience to cut the timber to form the lip along the full keel and around the bulb, this could be held in place with a bead of hot melt glue along the side you are not going to make first and then removed once your mat is set.
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9404.jpg)
Took the old superstructure to show where I'm heading.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9405.jpg)
Tweety paid a visit.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9505.jpg)
The last bottom plate is being checked for correct fitting and was later adjusted in some places to fit.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9506.jpg)
Glued the plate in place.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
I just had thought about the ballast tanks.
I had planned to use 1 big pump and 8 valves to serve a total of 8 tanks. Relais would make sure that as soon as 1 valve would be opened that the pump would fire up right away and as soon as the last valve would be closed the pump would be shut down as well.
This already wasn't all too complicated but still involves quite some electronics and one would need to pay quite some attention while the tanks are being filled.
Then I thought about the dive tanks used in model submarines which increase the size of the tank by moving a bulkhead thus sucking the water into the tank.
The main advantage is that the tank is always completely filled so there's no need for bulkheads to prevent the ship from rocking and rolling due to the water in the tanks.
This is a huge advantage for a ship this size and with heavy equipment at the top.
Another advantage is that I can now reduce the amount of tanks to 4 (compared to 8 in the original idea) or even 2, but then I can't use the tanks as counterweights to reduce the rocking and rolling of the ship.
I will use 2 motors or 2 servo's to control the tanks, 1 for the forward tanks and 1 for the aft tanks so that the SB and PS tanks fill to the same level.
I've also given some thought to how to give the command to fill the tanks, I originally planned to put a switchboard inside the hull but this means that a superstructure would have to be removed.
Then I thought about adding 2 3-way switches to the instrument panel, 1 per ballast tank, giving either the command to increase the size of the tank or decreasing the size of the tank.
This means that I can have all the weight in place whilst filling the tanks so that I can stop sucking water into the tanks when the ship has reached the waterline, much more accurately from the very first time onwards then when I need to put the superstructure back in place after filling the tanks.
What do you guys think about this idea?
Greetings Josse
This makes things much easier and I think will leave much more room for electronics, batteries and wiring.
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9630.jpg)
The bulbous bow is starting to get it's shape step by step now but it still needs quite a lot of work before it looks like real ship.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9628.jpg)
Trimmed the rear plate to place planks which can be shaped along the lines of the hull perfectly which the plate can't.
If the weather is good tomorrow I'll add polyester filler to this section of the hull, but as I'll be working under a "roof" there's a better chance of being able to add the filler.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9629.jpg)
Looks like the stern indeed is straight!!!!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9631.jpg)
Here I drew the lines for the final pieces of the bulbous bow which I can't saw now because people are sleeping here.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9634.jpg)
From hardly any bulb to rough bulb in 1 day.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9637.jpg)
Also shaped the front most part of the bulb, further back still needs lot of attention though.
I checked the shape by holding a photo of the real ship from the same angle next to my model and I'm proudly telling you now that the shape is very close to the original where I'm far enough with shaping.
The bulb here is much better then the previous which turned out to be much too narrow...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9636.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9638.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9640.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9641.jpg)
This shows that this certainly is quite a big boat...
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9642.jpg)
Put the old hull next to the new hull for comparison.
There's still a lot to learn, also on the new hull but the shape is what it should be.
The old hull has now been stripped of the last useful things and will be moved to the demolition yard where 2 small children will take her apart.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9643.jpg)
In this photo the difference in width of the bulbous bow can be clearly seen.
I remember having doubts about the bulb on the old hull some 6 years ago, wandering if it shouldn't be wider, never checked but now it turns out that my feeling was correct.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9644.jpg)
Today the sanding and filling will continue.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9709.jpg)
Sanded outside with good result.
That can't be said about the new sanding paper I bought the day before, it was torn apart in 10 minutes of sanding...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9711.jpg)
The stern is also slowly taking shape though it's still far behind the bow.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_9713.jpg)
The bow after half an hour of wet sanding the bow now really starts to look like it should be, but I'm not quite there yet.
Greetings Josse
-
Finally an update again, though not really a big one...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0301.jpg)
Tweety has been aboard again!!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0302.jpg)
Up close and personal.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0319.jpg)
Nothing much has changed other then ideas I had about how to proceed with this build.
The wooden hull will actually be the hull rather then just a plug, this is because the major reasons for making a GRP hull have fallen apart: I checked the weight calculation and found a few items that had weights estimated kilo's heavier then they'll ever be...
Beside that, as can be seen in this post, the wooden hull still offers plenty of space as it's designed now for all the functions and it saves me weight in ballast.
Then there is the ballast item: I had been thinking about using ballast tanks but recently I found out that there is no room for big enough ballast tanks in the stern due to the moonpool which has become more important then it ever was.
Therefore I decided that steel ballast isn't quite a bad thing to have so in this photo you can see almost 5 kilos of steel ballast packed together in 3 packs.
There will be a frame to keep it from moving about.
Then there are 3 pumps, 2 for cooling water and 1 to flush the anchors.
There are also 2 Speed 500-size engines to power the bowthrusters and there is an Arduino Mega without it's to be designed PCB.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0320.jpg)
This is midships with 2 batteries which will be turned around so the tops will end up in the middle with the batteries placed as far away from each other as possible and the batteries will also be placed in a frame to keep it from moving about.
The central computer (without it's still to be designed PCB) is placed on deck here because there is no room to put it in between the frames at the top.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0322.jpg)
Here is the stern with 2 Speed 500 E engines and 2 stepper motors and 1 cooling water pump, there is also an Arduino Mega for which I will also design a PCB.
There is also a little over 5kilos of ballast packed together like in the bow.
Greetings Josse
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Great progress Josse.
Look forward to seeing it progress. I'm putting some Arduino boards into my new Tug so will be watching this closely.
-
Thanks for the compliment!
Sounds good, Arduino is a great device with lots of possibilities.
How many functions are you thinking about?
Greetings Josse
-
Looking good so far. I liked the birds eye view O0
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0596.jpg)
The mold for the bow was too hard to get in shape (it already cost me 3 pieces of sanding paper) so I decided to make a new mold out of balsa which is being glued in the photo.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_0597.jpg)
The molds have been cut off the hull as preparation for adding the epoxy, which will be due to happen one of these days if the weather is good enough.
Groetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1078.jpg)
The boat is now almost ready to receive the first layer of epoxy and fibreglass, which will hopefully be tomorrow.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1079.jpg)
Prepared my desk for applying the epoxy.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1080.jpg)
Put the glass in place as much as possible but I've learned now that it is much easier to first apply a coat of epoxy and then put the glass in place and then apply a second layer of epoxy.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1081.jpg)
I used 2 of these cups to apply enough epoxy.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1082.jpg)
Applied the epoxy to the hull with a much better result then the last time but there's still enough room for improvement.
I used rovimat for the middle section of the hull which has fibres in all directions but I really don't like working with it so I'll use the woven fibreglass only next time.
Greetings Josse
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I am following this with interest as I am about to do some fibre glassing myself and would like to ask if you roll the glass down, or stipple it with a brush ?
I am also curious to know if both side can be done in one application before the stuff starts to harden off and becomes unworkable.
regards
ken
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Ken..... a colleague once told me that a few of his wife's credit cards make good applicators :o
1. inexpensive and resistant to the exothermic reaction that is about to take place <*<
2. disposable
3. firm and good sized for the task at hand
4. in the long run....would probably be a lot cheaper than as used in the original form
O0.... Derek
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I am following this with interest as I am about to do some fibre glassing myself and would like to ask if you roll the glass down, or stipple it with a brush ?
I am also curious to know if both side can be done in one application before the stuff starts to harden off and becomes unworkable.
regards
ken
Hi Ken,
I applied the resin by using a brush, but I should have stippled, might have saved me a lot of trouble...
I managed to do both sides in one go but it tends to become a bit of a rush job so prepare it very good to make sure the quality is what you want it to be.
Greetings Josse
-
Thank you for the advice Josse. I had a feeling that on my 4 foot hull I might be racing the clock. I will attempt one side at a time when the weather is warmer. The credit card idea is rather good Derek. I'm closing down a bank card as I've run out of money, so there's a final use for their card. %)
Will you be smoothing your hull afterwards as I wondered about sanding the cloth. ?
Cheers
ken
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Hi Ken,
On a hull that size and with proper praperation you should have plenty of time.
Make sure you make cuts in the glass passing the point where the hull reaches her fullest shape, I found myself making the cut deeper several times because I kept having air bubbles.
Even with the corrections and the struggle at first to get the glass on properly (I even had to cut off the big heavy glass in the middle otherwise it wouldn't stick to the hull) I managed to get the job done with a bit of time to spare.
Before starting to add the epoxy I made cut the 80gr glass in sheets of about 30cm long and about 7cm wide to fit most of the bow and cut shorter and narrower sheets to fit the more difficult shapes.
Good luck with the epoxy, if you prepare it properly it's actually fun to do but if you keep correcting things it can quickly become a pain in the but.
Greetings Josse
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Thanks Josse,
On my Severn lifeboat I had a yachtsman mate do it while I stood away from the fumes so he made it look easier than I suspect it really is.
I'm determined to have go myself so all advice is very welcome. :}
cheers
ken
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Hi Ken,
I just found some more advice as I released the boat from my desk.
First: make sure you have the boat well clear of the surface on which it rests, I did make 2 tower from batteries but had only a few centimeters clearance at best so I had to cut the boat loose from the paper that I used to protect my desk.
Next: don't use paper but rather some form of plastic, a trashbin bag will quite likely do the job perfectly as the epoxy probably won't stick to it.
Last one: if you think you've protected enough surfaces that shouldn't be coated with epoxy, add some more protective materials around it because I found epoxy and glass beyond the protected surfaces...
Greetings Josse
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There speaks a man who's 'been there, done that'
All good advice. Thank you very much. I shall have to be out in the garden anyway, as 'She who must be obeyed' has decreed 'no smells in the house' {-) {-)
ken
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Hi Ken,
Your welcome, that's why there are forums.
Epoxy hardly gives any smell, my mother has complained to me a lot when I was working with polyester outdoors but I applied the epoxy inside and haven't heard a word but I did open a window just to be sure.
But working with resins outside is always the safe way to go.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Ken
on your resin you will have a work time and a set time . different makes different times . Make a note of this because once you work time runs out the resin will start to set quickly and become impossible to spread . Like Josse said planing is key .
john
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Thank you, will do.
ken
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1084.jpg)
Be careful when working with epoxy to have enough height left between your subject and the workspace because you'll otherwise need to cut the boat loose...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1133.jpg)
I removed the molds which turned out to take quite a bit of force and discipline to not reshape the glass.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1134.jpg)
While sanding the first time I found that the molds on which the boat was laying whilst sanding where nicely dancing along making my decide to remove the waste material so I started measuring and drawing on the hull.
This photo is mostly about the blue and black lines at the end of the wood going up to the highest deck.
The wood should have stopped at the edge of the black line, opposite to the blue line but it is clearly visible it does not so.
Fortunately this can easily be overcome by removing the wood and the glass here but the glass was meand to be used for the plate which extends behind the transverse bulkhead which is the rear closing bulkhead of the superstructure here.
There's still plenty to learn for me clearly.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1135.jpg)
I just mentioned the solution to the poor measuring was easy but here one can see there is a bit more to it.
Fortunately there is still quite a bit of superstructure further inboard so I won't need to cut the wood to pieces all that much here.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1136.jpg)
Shaped the bulwarks on the bow.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1137.jpg)
Adjusted the bulwarks to the correct height.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1139.jpg)
Filled the hull with the equipment that will be put into the hull.
There's still plenty to be done on the hull.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1141.jpg)
The bulwark is clearly lower then on the previous hull but it was too high there anyway.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1142.jpg)
Had to cut the wood away here, as there was too much here but this way I was able to fix it anyway.
Greetings Josse
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Josse you will find it much easier to trip your grp if you do it at the 'green' stage.
This is when it has partially set up. It has gelled but still slightly pliable to touch, You trim along your mould line with a Stanley type knife. It will leave you a lovely clean cut with no sanding required.
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Hi Brian,
Thanks for the advice, I wish I would've known this earlier.
Does this work as well with epoxy, because it needs to harden before the next layer can be applied.
Greetings Josse
-
Hey guys,
Lately I haven't been doing much work on my boat, been away for quite some time and got myself a new job.
After thinking the sanding through a bit more (the rear bulwarks are bending way too much to my taste) I decided to add 2 9mm plywood plates as supports to the frames so that if the hull is turned upsite down for sanding the hull is resting on these added supports rather then on the rear bulwarks.
Today I found the time to sand the hull again, it appears to be a slow process but if you clean the sanding paper regularly it turns out to go quite well actually.
Today I reached the point where about 60% of the hull has a matt look indicating it is pretty much level but it still is higher then the gloss surfaces so I'll need to sand quite a bit more.
I'll try to keep sanding once every week but my schedule is changing all the time lately.
Greetings Josse
-
sanding grp whether epoxy or polyester is a royal pain in the backside. Something I am about to start this weekend. I have made up the plug for my fast rescue boat, only 90mm long but as I was unable to source any similar from model shops I am having to make my own. So this weekend I will make the shell of it.
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Hi Brian,
That sure is very true indeed.
It has to be done though but there is so much much nicer work to be done which can only be done when the hull is really smooth that I can keep myself motivated to keep going.
I might well start trying wet P400 or so and sand by hand, see what that does.
Greetings Josse
-
80 grit to start with to give you the shape,180 then to get rid of the 80 grit marks...Primer....400grit ...more primer...400 then topcoat...OH and KEEP SMILING
Dave
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Thanks for the advice, I'll try the 80 grit first, see what that does.
And I'll sure keep up a smile O0
Greetings Josse
-
That was quite some good advice, I couldn't imagine I would be able to do the job better by hand using 60grit then the sanding machine with 180grit but the 60 grit by hand actually works waayy faster then the sanding machines 180 grit!
The bottom at the bow now needs just a little bit of filler and then it's done there.
The side of the bow are also starting to get there but not yet fully there.
I try to spread this kind of work out over a longer period to keep the smile on my face.
Greetings Josse
-
Hey Josse, I have been reading your V2 blog and am impressed with the work you are doing. How did you come by the workshop? Did you evict a family member!
I have yet to dabble with GRP properly and so I am learning from you and Brian as you go through your trials and tribulations.
Keep up the good work and bathe in the glory that you are nearing the sanding saga.
TTFN Ian:O)
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Hi Ian,
Thanks for the compliment!
It's nice to hear that, though I'm still learning quite a lot in the process, other people are already learning from me.
That is also why I try to share as much of the process as I can.
Last year my brother got himself a house and left the building so I got myself an extra room, with balcony no less, ideal for sanding, painting and working with resins.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1238.jpg)
After having sanded the hull with 60grit sanding paper (which sands real fast!!) the bow is now almost smooth, still enough filling and sanding to do but I'm starting to get there.
Today I've decided to do something else on my boat for once, being the anchor pockets.
Here I have drawn the lines for the inside of the pockets.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1239.jpg)
Making the sides all precisely the same size and shape.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1240.jpg)
Made the closing parts a bit oversized to have room for errors and used a line to indicate where the parts need to be placed.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1241.jpg)
Make sure that the parts are glued together straight.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1242.jpg)
Drilled the 2 topplates in 1 go so the holes are in the exact same place.
Here the first pocket is already finished and the parts for the second pocket are ready for assembly.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1243.jpg)
Checked the dimensions and they turned out to be a perfect match with what was drawn on the hull, the lines on the hull represent the inside of the pockets.
Greetings Josse
-
That is good Josse. They look much better than the old ones.
-
Thanks for the kind words, I keep learning and improving my work.
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/2015-09-03%20Schroeven.jpg)
Last monday I ordered all the needed propellers for this model and they arrived today.
Here I have the main propellers held about where they'll hang under the ship when the thrusters (for which I will order the parts including 2 very nice nozzles) are finished.
These propellers look much better and are a much closer match to the propellers on the real ship then what Graupner supplied with the thrusters which I used on the previous attempt.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_1250.jpg)
These are the bowthruster propellers which fit very nicely in the tube I had prepared for the tunnels.
One of the stern thrusters is placed in the shot for reference.
Greetings Josse
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Ooh, shiney! I like that people go to the legnths they do to get the right shape and size of propellor. Given that they usually spend most of their time under water ( the propellors, not model boaters) it is especially thourough.
-
Well you've certainly spent a lot of cash on those Josse, they look nice and shiny.
-
Lots of cash indeed, but they're certainly worth the cost.
I'm still searching to scramble all the parts for the thrusters themselves, the nozzles will be bought ready made, they cost a lot as well but I don't think I can do it much cheaper then what I've seen on the internet.
Greetings Josse
-
Hey guys,
Last weeks I'm trying to get to sanding the hull more and more, all be it half an hour a day, that will get me there eventually.
Last week I did my sprinkler exam as I'm designing sprinkler installations nowadays, but now that I've done my exam I don't need to study anymore which leaves more time for modelling.
The process takes quite some time but then this ain't quite a normal size modelling project.
I'll get there eventually.
Anyways I got something to show again though still not really much,
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2159.jpg)
I'd just added some more filler to the bottom and side of the hull when I discovered a crack in the hull where the planking stops and the fibreglass bulwark starts so I decided to add a sheet of plastic to the bulwark but in such a manor that the filler will get time to cure properly so I put her on her stern against my pillar drill.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2160.jpg)
Added a piece of 1,5mm thick styrene to strengthen the bulwark.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2161.jpg)
The bow is nearing a smooth result but I'm far from happy still, though the real roughness is gone I still don't have a nice smooth line from the side of the hull to the centreline at the bow, it's kinda wobbly.
The bottom is now also starting to get there but also has quite some work to do there, especially at the stern.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2630.jpg)
Painted the hull with primer to see the im perfections better (which turned out to be many more then I thought) and drew the lines for the anchor pockets.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2632.jpg)
Drilled the hole for the first bowthruster after drilling alignment holes using a 30cm long drill.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2633.jpg)
Drew the alignment holes for both bowthrusters and placed 1 of the propellers in the hole which still needs to be made to fit the tube in it.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2636.jpg)
Today I finished drilling the second hole for the front most bowthruster due to which I was now able to put the tube in place temporarily to see if the alignment is good and fortunately it's pretty much spot on, only 1mm off in height and perfectly spot on in the transverse direction.
All in all I'm very pleased with the result though I'll keep trying better on the next tunnel.
In the foreground are the parts for the bowthrusters which will be used later on.
The timing belts I ordered at first turned out not to fit on the discs and were send back to be replaced by the belts visible in this photo which are the correct size.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2637.jpg)
This side of the hull is not quite as smooth as the other parts of the hull which made me decide not to paint this side yet.
Greetings Josse
-
Wow, She is coming along at a steady pace. I assume the tube will be cut flush with the hull sides? I am not sure if there are some types that project a little for the benefit of flow?
Excellent :-))
-
Hello Ballast,
Thanks forum the kind wordt!
At this moment the tunnel is not fixed in Place, it need to have a removable part so I can Place and of Neede remove the propeller.
Just beide the front bowthruster (the one in Place now) will be a half moon shaped bubble to influence the flow as well as a conus shaped edge around the tunnel exit.
Both shapes will be created when the hull is smooth in That region.
Greetings Josse
-
Thought I'd share some thoughts on my next challenge: making both end caps for the copper T's, which are to house the bowthrusters gearbox, to close them.
In 1 of the end caps will off course be a hole so the propeller shaft kan pass through.
Here are the options I have in mind:
- Make a wooden mold and shape a brass plate over it
- Make a wooden mold and dip it in a silicon bath to make an epoxy version out of it
- Make a wooden part and apply plenty of epoxy to the wood to make it watertight
The last option is not quite preferable since the end cap through which the propeller shaft passes through will need to be very carefully painted with epoxy to make sure the wood doesn't get wet, this is made even more difficult because I want the gears inside the copper T to be lubricated by means of water meaning the water will need to be able to get in through the propshaft hole.
Option 2 with the plastic version seems to be the best, which has another advantage: I can then use the molds to also make copies of the parts for the thrusters at the rear which are to be build with the same parts only a different propeller fitted to the shaft and a kort nozzle rather then being mounted in a tunnel.
Plastic seems to be the best material for the purpose, I want to secure the caps by means of a tiny little screw so I can always get them out for maintaince.
The brass option will be quite challenging for me since I haven't yet shaped brass that way before.
Greetings Josse
-
Wooden orignals need priming well if they are to be moulded in silicone, as otherwise the rubber seeps into the grain making it messy or difficult to extract the original. Styrene plastic has the benefit of being non porous and also quite strong. Look at the work of people like Radio Joe who regularly make masters and moulds.
-
Hi Ballast,
Thanks for the advice, I think I'll stick with styrene for the mould.
Last week I made myself a styrene mould for the anodes which I will slowly start building when I've got myself some silicone rubber for moulding.
I allready found some good advice but am still not sure as to wether or not I should use some form of loosing film with silicone to make sure I can get the plug out of the silicone mould.
Then there is also the question as to what material to use to make the final product, I was thinking epoxy but I'm not sure if epoxy would be strong enough without the fibreglass.
Does any of you have some thoughts on this?
Greetings Josse
-
Borrow the idea from concrete suppliers, when its delivered you can preorder a fibre fill to be missed with it so add strength (looks like white nylon rope fibres), just line fibre glassing, the fibres add an interlocking mechanism for strength, just like the old mud and straw mixture in 'ye old days'.
you would only have to find a fibre with a very thin cross section, that doesn't melt in the resin and is cut into 10-20mm lengths. you would need to do a pre skin so the fibres don't poke through.
-
Hi Warspite,
Thanks for the advice!!
I don't know about fibre glass in it, it needs to have a half dome shape which would be very hard to make with fibreglass in this size.
I'll keep it in mind but at this size I don't know it will do the trick, quite possibly also due to my abilities.
@ all,
Yesterday evening I made the holes for the second bowthruster tunnel so now the tunnel fits inside and also cut the removable piece out of the tunnel so I can fit the propeller and gearbox to it, the forward tunnel only just has the room for it...
Today I taped all the gaps off around the tunnels and the frames, I had broken the narrow piece of hull between the 2 tunnels on 1 side which will fortunately be fixed by filling it all up with epoxy which has now been done.
I decided not to fill it all up in 1 go but rather fill up to the cut-out in the bowthruster so the tunnels wouldn't flood with epoxy, making a mould around it to prevent that from happening with the next layers which turned out to be a good decision with what I know now, at some point the hull became too hot to touch for me, should I have added more epoxy I might have created so much heat the boat could well get on fire :o :o %)
That now didn't happen, I still have my boat in 1 piece.
I'll post some photo's later on when the epoxy has set up to the full height and the tape has been removed.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Ballast,
Thanks for the advice, I think I'll stick with styrene for the mould.
Last week I made myself a styrene mould for the anodes which I will slowly start building when I've got myself some silicone rubber for moulding.
I allready found some good advice but am still not sure as to wether or not I should use some form of loosing film with silicone to make sure I can get the plug out of the silicone mould.
Then there is also the question as to what material to use to make the final product, I was thinking epoxy but I'm not sure if epoxy would be strong enough without the fibreglass.
Does any of you have some thoughts on this?
Greetings Josse
Hello Josse
I not 100% sure what you are trying to do. I have cast many items out of resin via home made Silicon mould . The silicon will stretch a fair bit before it tears . The resin is hard but has its limits. a block of resin would be strong but a small rod say 3mm in dia would be weak . there are ways to increase strength.
If you ave a photo of what you are trying to make that would help in giving advice .
John
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Hi John,
This is roughly what I want to mould:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_2636_B.jpg)
The black lines indicate the shape of the parts, 1 side will be a half dome, the other will have a flat side so I can easily drill the hole for the propeller shaft, and I might also make the holders for the bearings using a mould.
The half dome side is just to close the end off the Tee, the other side would be used for watertighting the Tee piece whilst also having the propshaft passing through which it has to be strong so it can fit properly around the propellershaft and hold it in place.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse
I can see what you are trying to make . A hollow 2 part cast about the same size as that 15mm T plumbing joint.
yes it could be made but it wont be very strong . Brass or plastic might be easier .
Here is a short clip on how to make a 2 part mould
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBEK_Jyfvek
this were I get my resin and silicon from. I am sure you will have a place in Holland
http://www.mbfg.co.uk/?gclid=CMLFlKC3m8sCFTUo0wodkJEB_w
The parts I cast are deck fittings were strength is not required .
john
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It could be done as a one part mold. Just make the part and glue it with the flat part to a piece of plastic. Make a little box around it and make the mould with silicone. After curing, loose the mould and make copys with Polyurethane resin. Drilling the hole for the prop-shaft will need a lathe for precize allignement I think.
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What an interesting build.
Len.
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Thanks for the great advise guys!!!
It's much appreciated.
It would seem that polyurethane will be the way to go, though I noticed that epoxy is very tough as well.
The webshop in the link seems to have decent pricing for a full set, might well get it there some time in the future.
I'm thinking about also preparing the lifeboats as those already are there, only need to be patched up so I can mould those as well but that would be a good job for epoxy with fibreglass.
Greetings Josse
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Hi josse
another thought might be 3d printing .
Another thought if you can get bearings were the OD is bigger than the OD of the gear . you could first drill a hole horizontally a fraction bigger than the OD of the gear. then at the openings enlarge the hole dia to the OD of the bearings. the smaller dia of the gear hole would stop the bearings from moving in
john
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Hi John,
Thanks for the great advice!
3D printing seems to be used more and more but I don't think I'd like that so much, I'd rather start casting and make things myself.
Besides, my finance is currently aimed at getting my own house so funding a 3D printer will take way to long and I don't have room for the 3D printer.
Making room for the bearing is quite a clever idea, thanks a lot for that.
The idea already was to make the parts such that they fit inside the plumbing Tee a fair bit so it can be secured in there using a small screw so I can maintain the gearbox should that be needed.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse
with 3D printing . I ment more get a company like shapeways to do the printing for you. Shape ways have big printers in Holland .http://www.shapeways.com/?&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CIDBrfjOncsCFUQcGwodTS0BxA
john
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Hi John,
Thanks for the advice!!
That only brings my further away from making it myself which is the aim with as much as possible.
Besides, I'll need to make moulds anyway for other parts like doors, vents, goosenecks, anodes and many more parts.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
Lately my mind has been somewhat focused on the controls of this vessel, which won't be by ordinary means but rather by means of a combination of 2 types of small computers, each communicating with each other making the best use of the specialities each has.
Because I don't want to multiplex functions (in other words: control several functions with the same switch) I first came up with building an entire desk which would accommodate a 7" tablet and a fortune worth switches and self made control sticks.
At some point I realised the desk (large enough to actually sit behind it) was way to bulky and would make transportation very difficult.
Then I decided to make myself a more normal sized radio to make it much easier in handling and carrying around.
Yesterday I made up my mind about the size, the base plate using some 13 to 15 joysticks would a A4 paper size, 29cm wide and 21cm deep which turns out to be about the size of 2 4-channel radios like the one I used at the start of this project.
The first 2 joysticks have been ordered and I used them to make an impression as to which joystick would be placed where and controlling which function.
The next design feature is the 7" touch screen which will be connected to the raspberry Pi computer inside the transmitter which will send video to the screen using a simple HDMI cable, the touch being transformed by the screen itself to act as a normal mouse.
The Pi will be equipped with software like what I've already written for testing the laptop control which worked to some degree at some point but was dropped due to problems and the fact that laptops don't handle rain well and are prone to be stolen.
Anyway, the reason for this post is the picture below:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3150.jpg)
The first 2 plates have been made and fitted with holes to accommodate and attach the first 2 joysticks and the 7" touchscreen.
The joysticks will have a plate on top of the wooden plate to conceal the electronics and to try and keep the water out, for that I will make an extra edge under the stick itself.
The plates will be screwed in place with the screws holding the electronics below.
Now I need to make 11 to 13 more sets of holes, the sides and bottom plate, a hatch for the 2 batteries (I will put 2 5V Ly-Ion batteries in there to compensate the weight of the screen, it's a little under a quarter of the calculated total weight of the transmitter and is fitted topside so I need the total battery weight to make it more balanced).
For added balance and to not make my arms carry the weight of this thing all day long (it will weigh in a little over a kilo, not quite light weight) by adding a camera neck-strap to the sides of the transmitter.
Greetings Josse
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I think you will want the edge to be curved to the shape of your waist so it doesn't dig in. You can make this from a separate structure of ply with a foam pad around the curve.
I have included an image to describe my suggestion. The one on the right is for Nemo:O)
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Hi Ballast,
Thanks for the advice, that's something I hadn't thought of.
Greetings Josse
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No worries Josse. I saw something similar years ago on a TV series called Robot wars. They also had a backpack frame like thing the operator wore that had folding arms that held their console.
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3153.jpg)
Started building my new radio because the first self build radio was waaay to big.
This is A4 size (29,5cm wide, 21cm deep) and will weigh about a kilo, a quarter of that weight is for the touchscreen, another quarter by a total of 4 3,7V 4A LiPo batteries which we be wired up such that they will give 7,4V 8A total.
This will give a running time of about 6-7 hours.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3155.jpg)
Here the 7" touchscreen can clearly be seen along with the first 2 out of 13 joysticks.
The is now also a fuse box which will house a 1,5A fuse.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3156.jpg)
Started work on the gearbox for the first bowthruster, it already starts to look like something.
Here I'm determining where the horizontal gear should be positioned.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3157.jpg)
The full assembly line except for the engine.
Greetings Josse
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Your developments are bvery interesting and hark back to the earliest days when it was often up to the clever and handy person to make their own equipment though far more basic than what you are acheiving with digital and micro electronic gizmology. Here is a link showing some really old gear, some home made including a modern attempt at home building a system. http://www.mccrash-racing.co.uk/sc/early.htm
The use of a copper T piece is elegant especially if the solder joins are water tight :-))
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Hi Ballast,
Thanks for the kind words!!
That sure is old stuff, very nice to see where we got from only some 40 years ago.
Greetings Josse
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Here's an update again.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3233.jpg)
After having sanded the ends of the bowthruster tunnels down to the hull plating and some more sanding on the hull I decided it was very much time for a fresh layer of primer to make the remaining imperfections more visible.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3235.jpg)
Here it is clearly visible that the bowthruster tunnels are not positioned at the same height as is true for the real ship as well.
The shape has came out way better then the previous version, so I'm very happy about it.
Still lots of sanding to do though.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3236.jpg)
Greetings Josse
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Coming along slowly Josse. How are you doing with the electronics side of things? I saw a post by you on another forum dating back to 2012 asking about arduino. I saw it this week but I can't remember which site it was now.
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Hi Brian,
Recently I started working on a new, much smaller transmitter with Raspberry Pi as controller, still lots of work on the electronics.
Greetings Josse
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Wow, there is a lot happening in the bow! She should spin like a ballerina once finished with those thrusters.
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Hi Ballast,
Sheen sure will spin and turn Like a ballarina, also because of the rotating azimuth trusters I also need to make for stern propulsion.
She won't be fast though, the real ship isn't quite fast either.
Greetings Josse
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Coming along slowly Josse. How are you doing with the electronics side of things? I saw a post by you on another forum dating back to 2012 asking about arduino. I saw it this week but I can't remember which site it was now.
Hi Brian,
I wasn't home, therefore my short respons from my phone...
here is the new transmitter:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_3155.jpg)
There will be quite some more joysticks with which I will control the cranes and derricks.
The 7" touchscreen will be used to control all the other functions, being the on/off functions mostly.
I will use 2 microcontrollers, using the best of both, the 2 being:
-Raspberry Pi which will handle the heavy calculations and video feeds as well as the internet connection back to the shore (should 1 Pi not be capable of doing this I will buy another Pi to handle the video and internet)
-Arduino Mega, 4 of them which will control the moving part of the controls as the Arduino is pretty much made for accurate timing for servo control.
Using a normal USB cable the Pi can talk to the Arduino's without any modifications or complicated programming making this set-up hardly more difficult then when using only Arduino but getting video feed through an Arduino will make quite a challenge since that's not quite what the Arduino was made for.
The extra Arduino's also give room for extra input options about the status of various mechanical components like propulsion and cranes.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
Had quite a few busy months including 3 weeks holiday in Italy with my fiance now, I asked here to marry me in Italy at Lake Como.
In between all activities I did find some time here and there to work on Well Enhancer though not enough to place an update here, but here finally is an update again.
For my birthday I got a new Dremel (the corded Dremel 3000) from my parents, which is funny because 8 years ago I also got a Dremel (the cordless Stylus) for my birthday, also from my parents, but the battery of that Dremel has died about a year ago.
Any how, here is the update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4681.jpg)
Here the first Tee for the bowthruster is getting more shape, I used my fathers Dremel (this was about a week or so ago) to remove any unneeded material for a nice and smooth transition.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4684.jpg)
This is the bowthruster assembly.
The captain gives an indication of the sheer size of the bowthruster propeller, it's the size of an adult...
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4685.jpg)
Close up of the bowthruster assembly.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4706.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4710.jpg)
Some thoughts on the electronics and the deck.
The forward bulwark is a little low so I decided to make the deck as thin as possible so I don't need to raise the bulwark as much anymore.
Off course that will influence the thickness of the other decks as well because otherwise heights between the different decks get's out of perspective but that won't be a problem.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4712.jpg)
The main computer with all Arduino's hooked up.
After giving some more thoughts to ballast placement, the location of the central computer and the pumps I decided it would be best to devide the weight of the middle ballast pack among the other 2 packs to make room for the fire water pumps.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4714.jpg)
The transmitter, now with a 10400mAh powerbank and 3 analogue to digital converters to translate the analogue signals from the joysticks to a digital signal which the Raspberry Pi will understand.
There now also is a power button with light in it.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4717.jpg)
The arrangement of all drive parts in the stern.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4719.jpg)
Greetings Josse
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I see you are using mini stepper motors in the stern Josse, as drives for azimuth thrusters? Do you envisage problems with aligning them both with the same signal?
Also why are you mxing Raspberry Pi and Arduino together? why not srick to one system or the other?
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Hi Brian,
I won't be using the same signal for both thrusters so that won't be a problem.
Controlling the propulsion will be such that when the stick is moved forward the throttle will be increased until the stick is returned to the centre position.
Moving the stick back will decrease speed until zero is reached and then reverse is engaged.
This means a little slower response time, but more realistic but also less demanding.
It means I can control the bow thrusters whilst the main propulsion remains as is.
I'm mixing the Pi with Arduino because both are good for different things, a Pi can't really control servo's which is the Arduino's main strength.
On the other hand, heavy calculations are more the Pi's strength whilst it's more of a weakness for the Arduino.
Therefore I will use the Pi to interpret the controls in the transmitter and to receive them in the boat, keeping track of what command should result in what action.
The transmitter will only generate commands like "move forward", the Pi in the boat will translate that command to "servo A to 234" for example (that is close to full throttle by the way).
The reason for this is that I can then use the transmitter for any boat without having to wire and program in a certain fashion.
There is 1 more reason for the Pi to be added: it handles screens and video which the Arduino can't at all and also audio is better controlled by the Pi (at least stereo versus mono on the Arduino).
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4801.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4850.jpg)
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4851.jpg)
I screwed the central computer in place, added 2 panels to make it a box and screwed the Pi and Arduino in place.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4852.jpg)
Gave the ESC, rear Arduino and stepper motor drivers a proper place.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4853.jpg)
Looking top down.
I also added some cable management.
Greetings Josse
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I am impressed with your proficiency in computing as the whole thing flies over my fluffy head. I can see that it will be a wonderful system when running.
The hull is coming together well Josse, very smooth.
Congratulations on your Engagement :-))
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Hi Ballast,
For the time being programming is also above my head, I start to understand the very basics but still need my father (who works with programming) to get things really going.
Because I know it can work and because this is pretty much the only way to achieve what I have in mind with this model I'll build the electronics in anyway.
Thanks for the compliment, it takes so much time but is certainly worth the effort, especially when finished the way I want her to be finished.
Thanks a lot, now I need to plan myself a wedding and find myself a house...
Greetings Josse
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Had myself a nice bit of engineering going on which I'd like to share with you guys:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4856.jpg)
I started to realise that the stepper motors I bought for the thrusters are pretty slow.
Since there will be 62mm diameter gear on the steering part of the thruster and there is a 28mm gear on the stepper motor I'll get stuck with very slow turning thrusters, making planning ahead a necessity, and any unforeseen events close to my boat can't be dealt with...
Therefore I started looking for other stepper motors, but they are all much bigger.
The bigger motor in the same place will not work at all, so I decided to check where I do have room close by.
You can see in the photo I found myself a nice place.
The paper box was made in AutoCAD to the exact dimensions of the thing.
The white cap shows where the steering gear will be positioned, it has roughly the same dimensions.
Nice bit of trial and error engineering, but it works.
Using the same components I'll have myself a nicely fast stepper motor though in a nicely controlled manor.
Here is a video of the turning Stepper motor of the new choice:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UJgDtGRXDM
Greetings Josse
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I've watched the video Josse, I think the NEMA 17 might be too big for your space even though you have made a card shape of its size.
This is what I am using to raise and lower my retractable thruster, its a NEMA 14, but you can also get 11 and 8 sizes. As you can see they can be fitted with belt drives so maybe a belt drive would be better for your setup?
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Hi Brian,
That is some very useful information!
I didn't know NEMA had several sizes.
I just looked it up and the NEMA 11 seems to be properly powered but a little awkard in size, the NEMA 14 is clearly overpowered but is so low I can stick with my original idea with gears for the steering and drive belt for the drive shaft.
The reason for the gear steering is that I did find a proper gearwheel in a size that fits through the outer tube on which the thruster unit will be hung up whilst not taking up all the room in the rear and be somewhat reasonably priced (not over €40,- per gear).
Now I only need to figure out what the speed of the NEMA 14 is.
Greetings Josse
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The speed of a stepper is determined by how you drive it? Dedicated stepper driver or through a PIC. Dedicated driver will be faster but at a greater cost, PIC can handle it but much slower.
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Further thinking, to drive a stepper motor quickly most are driven through a PC's printer port to the driver board, the Pi may be able to handle this but unsure, the other way is through a darlington driver driven via a PIC. AsI said the trade off is speed over price.
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Just noticed the video so I apologise if teaching granny to suck eggs!!
If its not fast enough just change the size of sprockets to give faster ratio.
Watch out though for missing steps, it could throw your positioning out. You may want to put in some sort of reference point to make sure it always goes back to zero or can be tuned back to zero if it gets lost through missing steps.
The noise is normal in the video, you can get steppers to sing if you run them fast enough and are nifty at programming them, my ones on my cnc can scream fairly loudly but they are going as fast as i can push them.......lol
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Further thinking Josse, how many steps per rev are these steppers? (normally 1.8 deg) if you know this you can work out the steps needed to give you finite positioning for the drives without the need for speed, simply put you can have near enough a 1:1 drive - 1 step = 1.8deg. If you can half step the motors that would be even better - 1/2 step = 0.9 deg.
Food for thought?
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Hi Stew,
Thanks for the information.
Speed certainly can be regulated by means of programming but it won't run faster then it's maximum speed.
The NEMA 17 seems to be reasonably fast, I don't want servo speed, that's way to fast, but slower can give trouble in responding to an unforeseen event like an upcoming collision.
The real thrusters take about 8 seconds to turn 180 degrees, I don't want my thrusters to turn that slow but it gives an idea of what I'm going for.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse,
I see what you want to do. What i would try and do is programme the motor to only turn 180 deg (half a turn), put a bit of insulation tape round the shaft to act a flag, start position is 0 deg then have it step 90 deg one way then 180 deg the other way then back 90 deg to your start point 0 deg, see how long it takes, should reckon about 3 seconds, with a 1:1 drive to speed up or slow simply edit programme, a lot cheaper and easier than messing with gears etc.
Hope it helps and happy to help further if needed.
Stewart
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Hi Stewart,
I do need to mess with gears because of the only gears I could find to attach to the rudder post of the thruster and there is not enough room for a second gear the same size on the stepper motor.
Therefore I reckon I'll have about 1:2 reduction.
Rotation will be unlimited, the real ship doesn't even have reverse on the main engines because the thrusters can rotate unlimited.
Controlling the steering will be by setting the speed by the angle of the joystick, zero the joystick and the thruster will stop turning but not returning to the zero position.
The 8 seconds for 180 degrees to indicate the speed a bit, 3 seconds on the model sounds about nice but need to figure out more.
Greetings Josse
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Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4860.jpg)
Bit of trial and error engineering but works quite well actually.
I wanted to check for room for possible faster stepper motors but those I found are far less accurate so I need to think it through.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4861.jpg)
Put the different options alongside each other for reference.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4881.jpg)
Today I hooked both teh 2 ESC's and the stepper motors up to the rear Arduino and to there own power supply running 2 sets of wire to the central computer to be hooked up there.
I connected the battery to the system to see if the lights would go on, indicating proper power connections.
Turned out to be working fine, now I need a program so I can control things.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4883.jpg)
In the bottom of this photo one can see the temporary connection of the power to the rear and the UBEC (the universal version of the BEC on ESC's).
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4884.jpg)
I also started working on the cover for the central computer housing a LCD screen with 2 rows of 16 characters (screen will show messages like "computer powered up" or malfunctions of any kind), a hole to put the main antenna through and I started working on a fuse design.
The Pi and Arduino's will have a 7,5A group which is more then enough for this application.
The main engines will share 1 10A group which is enough for 1 blocking engine.
The bowthrusters will share 1 10A group.
There will be 2 more 7,5A groups for all other equipment, including the 2 steering stepper motors.
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4889.jpg)
The top plate has now got the main switch and the LED's to indicate power has applied mounted.
The LED's will be connected with a resistor to the fuse and then to the - fuse so I can be absolutely sure whether a fuse is burned or not.
I dropped the - fuses for the groups, leaving the main fuse as only - fuse with it's Amps being lowered from 30A down to 7,5A since there shouldn't be any current at this fuse.
All fuses will be attached to the 12V supply, the lower voltages will be created a bit further down the line by voltage regulators which will be placed in the central computer.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4890.jpg)
This is the bottom of the plate as of now.
I had to cut a bit out of the plate so I could fix the main switch but now it's properly attached.
I also had to drill a larger hole from the under side of the plate for the LED's so they would have an edge near the top which they stick behind whilst they do raise above the top of the plate.
Tomorrow I will start wiring things up, after that the LED's will be properly attached as well so I can remove the tape afterwards.
Greetings Josse
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Looking good Josse!
.... where's the budgie?!
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6891.jpg)
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Hi Martin,
Thanks for the compliment!!
The bird died last summer unfortunately...
Greetings Josse
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AH! sorry to remind you of that...
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRn9VoSsFAp8wPsWn-zqaJq3iv2b4tWbF3HYCSyVup03IwfuHTY)
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Hi Martin,
No problem, I have many good memories off Tweety.
Greetings Josse
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I am sorry to hear of your loss Josse. I shall be impressed by the way you have arranged and installed yor electrics, the planning will be quite extensive given the different ampages and the computer systems.
Excellent progress.
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Hi Ballast,
Thanks for the kind words!
I am planning ahead a lot lately, everything gets thought through for some time before I start building it, saving myself from the trouble I had on the first attempt.
Now that I read my post back about my bird I realise I made it sound like Tweety died a few months ago, it actually was over a year ago, during my summer holiday, I had to drive home some 2 hours on a Sunday morning to bury Tweety...
Greetings Josse
-
Update:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4944.jpg)
I managed to get the fuses in place with indicating LED lights up and running.
Still need to add the power for the bowthrusters and for the 2 remaining groups though, at some point I short circuited the main fuses, after which I didn't seem to get power back online but after quite some thought I realised that in case of short circuit not the + fuse (30A) would be blown but the - fuse at 7,5A so replacing the + fuse won't do the trick...
After that I turned out to also have blown a LED up which I've now replaced.
All attached systems are up and running here, the red light under the fuses is the power LED on the Arduino Mega in the central computer.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_4946.jpg)
A closer look at the top plate, 3 more fuses are to be added.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
Got quite some busy months behind me, first I got news I had a new job in another region of the country, then suddenly I got myself a house in that region which required quite some work...
By the time the work on the house was done my fiancé and I decided to start planning our wedding, which is planned for this summer!!!
Managed to use Kings day to pick up the work for a bit again, see the result below:
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6252.jpg)
Started work on the foc'sle deck which I will keep removable for the time being so I can continue the work inside the hull without trouble whilst I also can start detailing the deck and building the superstructure.
When I want to work inside the hull I can simple put the deck aside and continue the work in the hull.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6253.jpg)
Put the deck in its place, it fits nicely.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6255.jpg)
I got myself a new battery, a 12V 12Ah battery which I will place a bit lower then it is now which will also ensure that it is placed firmly.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6257.jpg)
I received the gearwheels which will be used to turn the thrusters.
Since these gearwheels don't really match with those on the stepper motors I will get myself some other ones for the stepper motors.
(http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc430/tweety_777/DSC_6266.jpg)
Using the powerbank which will be used to power the transmitter (the UBEC doesn't provide enough power for the Pi) I picked up fiddling with the Pi again, starting with finding it in the network again.
That's it for now.
Greetings Josse
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It is great to see you back and building Josse! I wondered where you had got to but kept getting you and another member's name mixed up so sorry both!
Congratulations on your trinity of good news and hope your wedding is a success :-))
Do you now have your own ship yard in the house?
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Hi Josse
congratulations to you on all your good news . Nice to see you keeping on at Well Enhancer
John
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Thanks guys!!!
Hi Ballast,
I made myself a 2,5m wide cabinet underneath a window in the computer room on which I place my ship models and there is a hobby desk some 1,5m wide right next to it with my tools above it behind a nice curtain.
Greetings Josse
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Congratulations on the coming wedding Josse. But don't leave it too long before your next update, we need to know how W.E is progressing.
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Hey guys,
2 months ago I got married!!!!! After that I went on my honeymoon to the Italian Lakes.
After that it was back to work.
Last week I picked up modelbuilding again, here is the result:
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/vyhmrbgh2m2ge.jpg)
Drilled holes of 1,6mm for making M2 thread in the gearwheels of both the thrusters and the bowthrusters.
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/qgudfwoug5lgz.jpg)
Made M2 thread in the gearwheels, now I only need to shorten these 5mm long screws, otherwise they don't fit inside the Tees.
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/ann4s9askpfgj.jpg)
This is the line-up of how they'll be.
I decided the brass endplates are too weak, instead I'll make molds en cast the endpieces out of epoxy, using a brass rod inside to keep the gearwheels with the shafts in place.
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/rfsqfyhgpdwil.jpg)
I placed 3 walls on the deck, 2 of which have holes to have light shine trough to the doors which will be made out of clear epoxy to represent the windows.
That's it for now.
Greetings Josse
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Good to have you back tweety and congratulations! :-))
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Hey guys,
2 months ago I got married!!!!! After that I went on my honeymoon to the Italian Lakes.
After that it was back to work.
Hi Josse, Congratulations on your wedding! I hope your honeymoon was also a success.
I salute you now having a supportive wife, or one that is pleased your hobby doesn't encroach on the rest of the house!
I notice on my reply that there are lots of image boxes without any images, and on the post there is nothing at all. Is there a problem with your hosting site, or has my computer got huffy on me again?
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Hi Ballast,
Thanks for the kind words!
Photobucket has decided that they need you to pay or otherwise you can't show photo's on other sites, therefore my photo's aren't visible.
I started using Google now but I don't have time to reset the previous photo's.
Greetings Josse
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Congratulations on your marrage
Dave
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New attempt, unfortunately I can't edit the original post anymore...
( Added photos into first post - Admin ) :-)
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It might be easier to replace the too long screws with grubscrews. These are normally shorter and don't have the big screw head just a hex socket. Grub screws also tend to be harder and will bite onto the shaft better giving a more secure fit.
Jim
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Hi Martin,
Thanks a lot, and thanks for editting my reply!
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the advice, I tried to look for screws like that but hadn't yet been able to find them.
I'll search some more, the current screws can still be used elsewhere.
Greetings Josse
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They are quite easy to find on Google once you have tried a few times. I bought ten for a couple of pounds in 2015.
warn you though that M2 grub screws with hex will be difficult to screw in and out. .9mm is the size of hex spanner you need but I am blowed if I can make it fit in the hole reliably. I would try for a slot style head for a flat head screwdriver.
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Sounds like I need to think it through, shortened these screws have proven to work good, they're easy to put into the holes and screw tight but need to be shortened, I'll see if I can find an alternative but I'm not going to search abroad since that will bring high delivery costs for such small parts.
Greetings Josse
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Congratulations Josse - now on to important things :} :}
You are in Holland (Netherlands)? Surely you have outlets of the French Leroy Merlin chain there? We have them in Spain. Anyway on their section that has screws and nails (hardware) there is (at ours at least) a small section of plastic drawers that contain various size grubscrews. I bought a packet last week of 3mm and ten in a pack. It cost me 2€ 10c
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Thanks Brian!
That sounds like a useful start for my search, thanks a lot.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
I took a holiday this week, partly to pick up building again.
I didn't manage to build as much as I'd hoped to but I did make an important step towards finishing the hull:
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/1e8e9xnmuriuk.jpg)
This is the newly made engine room layout. When I finished the clear plate seen in this photo and put the gearwheel on it I quickly started to realise that there might not be enough room underneath the deck to fit the propulsion the way I wanted it to be.
I therefore ordered the parts needed and watched how it would turn out, and indeed, it wouldn't fit under the deck.
Therefore I have decided to put the gears for the steering underneath the plate and place the propulsion V-belt directly above it.
The long brass shaft is a 10mm diameter hollow shaft which will be used to make the outer shaft of the thrusters and it will hold the drive shaft.
The shaft is a full 1mm thick, so I have no doubt it will be up to the job.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
Lately I've been thinking thinks over a bit, mostly concerning the bowthrusters and the rear azimuths.
I started thinking about 3D printing the needed parts, but this thought started an avalanche of thoughts, actually, an entirely new way of looking at the construction of the thrusters.
I have reached the point where I've decided I'd best put the thrusters back to the drawing board and design parts myself that are to be 3D printed.
As of yet I haven't found any time to make the design though I do have a new set-up in mind: a closed gearhouse with 1 removable end to which the propeller and needed gear are mounted. The biggest part will most likely (the design will need to make clear if this really is the best way to go) be made such that it enters the waterfree areas of the hull and be fitted there, thus I'll have much less parts whilst I keep the ability to maintain the parts.
Biggest challenge is to find some place where I can 3D print the parts for a reasonable price...
In the meantime I've made an Excel sheet in which I've appointed all the needed pins on the Arduino's to a certain function and a command so that I can use this to start programming the Raspberry Pi in the hull when I feel up to it.
Greetings Josse
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Looking good Josse. :-))
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Thanks Martin,
Hopefully I can find time and courage to continu working on Well Enhancer in the upcoming christmas holiday.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse
for thruster have a look at this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schottelantrieb-Gondel-Twin-f%C3%BCr-Graupner-Azipod-Seabex-One-Thyssen-2/162601940401?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
for bow thruster
https://www.shapeways.com/product/34H64E487/bow-thruster-large-10mm-channel-diameter-driven?optionId=57347648&li=marketplace
john
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Hi John,
Thanks for the help!
Graupner schottels are in my drawer here, I found them to be too noisy, therefore I decided to make my own.
The bowthrusters shown are about a quarter the size of the units which I'm building here.
Besides, the tunnels are already in place.
Greetings Josse
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Hi everyone,
Lately I've been too busy with the house and my pregnant wife to get to modelbuilding but now I've found some time to get at least something done.
Recently I finally got my head around a proper set-up for the touchscreen in the transmitter.
In this thought, which has now been translated into a visual design to which I only need to add the controls towards the boat itself, I made a fundamental design change regarding the use of the joysticks.
At first I planned on giving every joystick it's own function, I changed this to having 4 rows of 3 joysticks which will have software controlled functions.
For Well Enhancer this means that all these 12 joysticks will have 3 functions for each direction.
This saves a hole lot of on/off engine controls and saves at least 4 wires for each ROV which will result in a thinner wire attached to it.
Anyways, below some pictures of the software, please keep in mind that this currently is only visual, the text of the on/off functions changes but that is all at the moment.
Making this function is the next step.
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/so8bty.jpg)
The 2 sliders will be the only PWM functions that will not be controlled by a joystick.
(https://www.mupload.nl/img/u8rkeldj5uz.jpg)
All engine and rudder statuses have been set to 0, currently this is just plain text, it will be controlled by the joysticks at some point.
Greetings Josse
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Sorry, I cannot read the Yellow writing.
Len.
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Sorry, I cannot read the Yellow writing.
Len.
Its in Dutch I think
john
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Its in Dutch I think
john
Hi John,
That is correct.
The background colour will be grey all over but for some reason that is more difficult to do in the tabs then in the main page, I haven't found a way to do that yet.
Greetings Josse
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Hello guys,
It's been a while, been mostly busy with the little one in past months. I have been filling and sanding every now and then though. But this week I felt it was time for something bigger, something with the propulsion. See the result below.
(https://ibb.co/0jW7jfb]https://i.ibb.co/Gv16vVS/20200922-165032.jpg)I've drilled the holes for the schottels after having decided to use the old schottels from the first attempt after all. I also modified the gearwheels to fit the schottels. The gearwheels and all components fit quite well though a few minor modifications will make things better still.
[/size]I also started adjusting the keel and frames so the battery will fit a bit lower in the hull. I will make a nice box to fit the battery so it can't move about and also to reinforce the hull since cutting in the keel and frames will somewhat weaken the hull.[/color]I also received the new Raboesch Bowthrusters which I will fit inside the existing tubes in the near future, if weather permits it.[/size][/color] [/size][/color]Greetings Josse[/size]
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Hey guys,
I got some work done in the engine room now that my new hobbyroom is finished.
Photo DSC_1130_B:
I put the engines in the right position to have the V-belts under proper tightness, I only need to properly attach the gearwheels on the engine shafts. I also attached the gearwheels to the stepper motors and placed the stepper motors. The holes for the gearwheels are large enough to fit the gearwheel through so I don't need to remove the entire plate. Fitting the gears proved a little difficult since the plastic gearwheel is too weak for M2 threading so I had to make a hole in the stepper motor shaft. I only need to make a proper place for the stepper motor controller.
Photo DSC_1132_B:
This is where the boat is placed now, a much better place then the shed where she was before.
Photo DSC_1133_B:
This is the working room, though I will still be adding more Hobbyzone stuff for storage and for my tools.
Greetings Josse
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Looking good! :-))
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Hey guys,
It's been a while, been very busy, partly in and around the house. I've added a 3D printer to my list of tools now so I can make some more difficult shaped parts more accurately. It's been used quite a bit now and it works very nicely. It's a great addition to my toolbox!
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/84/0a/840a3a017cdde10afea81f8d72836aa6.jpg)
First of all I continued to upgrade my hobby space, though there is more to come in the future.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b0/f7/b0f7d67eb97dbccd1b348bcb58614d65.jpg)
I made the plates for the new transmitter, so it was time to see how the 12 joysticks will look, though 2 are missing here being used in a test set-up.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d2/bf/d2bf2eff6212cf814193905b08d8743e.jpg)
There will be at least 4 of these 3D printed sticks on the transmitter, 2 solely throttle sticks, the other 2 mounted atop the disks for combined throttle and steering control. I might add a 3rd of these for future projects. The transmitter will be dominated by the newly arrived 10,1" touchscreen for which the new transmitter had to be widened by 10cm so the wiring has the room it needs.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/41/89/418955e637e238700a31d6beab5813ea.jpg)
Electronics in the bow are starting to be arranged bit by bit. The small boards house 1 port expander (16 I/O functions) and the others a total of 5 relais needed for the somewhat (above say 10mA) more powerful functions here.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/61/bb/61bb18514429a0ad1087a44b4073787a.jpg)
Quite chaotic wiring and hosing right now, once all the parts are in I will clean this mess up to make things recognisable.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/40/7a/407a407884bb31f4dba2b4f44bc290a9.jpg)
I've been modifying the gears for steering the azimuths a lot due to my 3D printer printing a little bit smaller than the actual model is. This is somewhat frustrating when all the measurements were taken with a digital calliper.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ec/b3/ecb37c6d076cd3cc3b84730e3500a814.jpg)
Lots of electronics, there's no other way to achieve my goal. The small blue PCB will control 16 servos and motors, the larger 1 will control the rotation of the main crane and the small crane on the rear deck by means of stepper motor.
Greetings Josse
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Incredible, no idea about all the electronics, but brilliant and congratulations for solving the problems.
I think I will stay with steam, that way you only get burnt {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Hello Phil,
Thanks for the kind words! To me steam engines are to big a challenge, I don't like the pressures involved with steam power, so I admire your work on that.
Greetings Josse
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You know what they say....
"A tidy bench is the sign of " ..... what do they say?! ok2
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/84/0a/840a3a017cdde10afea81f8d72836aa6.jpg)
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Hello Martin,
I do like planning indeed (to be honest I didn't know what they say about a tidy desk so I googled it). Though one might argue that it takes a certain degree of brilliance or genius to rethink a concept and take it to a whole new level O0
Which is which I will leave in your hands while I continue slowly towards my goal. Though I can say that I've crossed quite a lot of barriers this year on my way to achieving my goal. Sailing this boat has not been such close for way to many years now.
Greetings Josse
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Tidy desk...tidy mind
It sort of explains my head :embarrassed:
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Hello guys,
(https://www.modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/30/b1/30b172d51af5420888892b48f405bcaf.jpg)
The new transmitter right next to the prototype, quite a difference in size though I'm quite happy about that.
(https://www.modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/12/be/12bec4195ec92ec8b20610516883b907.jpg)
The new transmitter is really starting to take shape now, I only need to increase the holes for the joysticks. These will be covered by 3D printed plates which will also make the holes watertight.
While I'm working on figuring out all the details of the transmitter it came to mind that I had a universal transmitter, which is quite difficult with the propulsion controls dedicated for Well Enhancer whilst I have a Smit Rotterdam moored alongside in drydock. So I decided I could best solve this by not putting the main propulsion controls on the transmitter itself but rather on a new build add-on which I will 3D print, though it will be in 2 pieces because of the size.
(https://www.modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/4c/1a/4c1a1d0c4305ca550507ff9f2eaab4ef.jpg)
This is the first part of the design for the add-on of the transmitter, the second half will be the mirror image, including the insert which will house the electrical connections. In each add-on I will place 1 port expander (this makes it possible to keep using the same program) and 2 analogue-digital converters. This also gives me room for plenty of extra's if I ever need to go even more extreme then Well Enhancer, if that is even possible.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
I've been spending quite some time on further developing different areas and building mainly the transmitter.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/22/6c/226ca0fa7e7cb01388c09d693b9a9dc4.jpg)
I'm busy trying to find a good lay-out for the electronics in the bow where I also keep forgetting that part of this plate is not quite reachable anymore when the deck is finally in place, and there also needs to be room for the winches for the lifeboats above.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/05/6d/056dfb1dda167f653ea9e67513a00c76.jpg)
I'm still working on further developing the power distribution part. I'm trying to find a way to put the Pi and other electronics below the power distribution, though I need to reserve some space in the portside corner for the crane on top.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c5/cf/c5cf5279cce1146b44c386eb34dd89e9.jpg)
Transmitter is getting ever closer to finishing. Below the transmitter are a multimeter (the blue PCB) and a timing relais. The multimeter will be used to estimate the battery capacity by keeping track of the amount of Amps consumed, so it's some kind of educated guess since powerbanks unfortunately do not transmit this kind of information. The timing relais will be placed between the Pi's pin that I'll use in the shut-down script and the Unset pin on the latching relais so the power goes down after the Pi has been properly shut down There will also be a red push button directly attached to the Unset pin on the latching relais to directly power everything down in case of emergency or frozen Pi or screen.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d9/64/d964b433998b089742eb507ab8afe6db.jpg)
I Started filling the gaps in the transmitter.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d8/10/d810cbf03ad52aed266ae51c09f930d9.jpg)
This main part now looks quite empty for the powerhouse it actually is since the main propulsion controls are moved to the add-on. Unfortunately even 3 attempts at on printing the first half of the add-on have not delivered result due to some strange problems with the black material. First the layers where more like a string of wires rather then a closed plate it was supposed to be. 20% more material solved that problem. The second attempt therefore started better until the bed got launched off of the printer. The third attempt I watched more closely and probably went about the same way. After the first 2-3 layers in some places the material started to come loose from the bed (as in clearly up from the bed, wrapped and all), and at some point the printhead got stuck behind such a piece and eventually pulled the entire plate in a Z-shape forcing me to power down the printer in order to stop making things even worse.
For connecting the 2 elements I will use VGA connectors, nicely simple to use since I only need to solder the wires to the connectors.
Greetings Josse
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That's quite some electronic and transmitter Josse :o
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Hi Josse,
Looks a great project.
I wonder if you have considered adding a chip (somethig like ATTINY 85) to each joystick to facilitate i2c connectivity.
Each chip (joystick board) would have it's own address and could process the analog read of the 2 pots and convert them to a position which is than made available over i2c.
You would end up with a dasiy chain of just 4 wires between each pot board (+vcc | gnd | sda | scl) and 4 wires back to you main processing board.
Regards
C-3PO
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Hi Martin,
Thanks for the kind words!
Hi C3PO,
That sounds like a good idea, it's a pity I didn't learn of this option sooner. Right now I only need to wire the up the select pins and re attach a few wires and then all I need to do is finish the programming.
Greetings Josse
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Hi C3PO,
Hi C3PO,
That sounds like a good idea, it's a pity I didn't learn of this option sooner. Right now I only need to wire the up the select pins and re attach a few wires and then all I need to do is finish the programming.
Greetings Josse
This has got me thinking and searching around and I found an I2C analogue to digital converter and have started rewiring the transmitter. The new ADC's now only need to be connected to power for which I used a new PCB which I designed myself but ordered abroad for a good enough price.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
It's been quite a busy time for me, been working on the house and garden for quite some time, with good result fortunately. The back garden got a metal frame pool, large enough for some test floating and testing systems for Well Enhancer. This gave me new motivation to try and get the hull fully painted into the water. There is still a bit of filling and sanding left to do however but it should be a quite realistic goal to achieve before the pool is going into the shed for the winter season.
Photo 1 shows the PCB's that I designed for the transmitter first and foremost but the orders go in multiples of 5 so I'll use a few in the boat as well.
Photo 2 shows the cooling water outlets, designed in 3D before my PC died, and printed with my new resin 3D printer which I got this week. The shaft is 3cm long, but I'm not sure whether or not there will be enough water coming out of these but I can test that shortly.
Then I couldn't hold my horses anymore while taking the boat back inside while walking right next to the pool and decided to put her in the pool to see how she floats. Suprisingly, considering the water inlets haven't been glued in place yet, she remained fully dry inside at this depth, however, when I pushed the bow down to the waterline a small bit of water started coming in from the water inlet for the fire pump and when I pushed the stern to the waterline a bit of water came in past the schottels. The inlets will simply be glued tight to fix the issue. For the schottels I will design a through hull like provided with the schottels but of course modified for my boat with a closing ring on the outside so it will be as easy as possible to make it watertight.
Greetings Josse
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Hello guys,
Since my last update I have been filling and sanding like it was going out of fashion. The result is there now!
(https://i.ibb.co/XswrKb5/JMB-4407-V.jpg)
This was after the 3rd time applying primer since the first 2 times only revealed yet more bumps and dents.
(https://i.ibb.co/m5DsL2r/JMB-4452-V.jpg)
Now the first side of the hull has been fully painted, though I do need to straighten the waterline since some paint got under the tape.
(https://i.ibb.co/ZBTFKhM/JMB-4453-V.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/jHCLywN/JMB-4454-V.jpg)
The section of hull above the maindeck besides the dive-area will be cut off and replaced by a 3D printed part which will be designed with both the hull and deck and all the detailing and placed afterwards. I made this decision because this section is not strong enough without the deck to be above in place to be properly filled and sanded.
Greetings Josse
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Wow!
I've been following your endeavors since the beginning and this is a huge improvement! Your patience paid out in the end, keep up the good work. Will follow with interest!
Hama
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Hello Hama,
Thanks for the kind words! Though I must admit that it was very tempting to stop being patiend and just get some paint on. Fortunately I managed to keep my patience and finish what I started.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
I set out trying to get the boat painted before I need to empty the pool for the winter. Still had to fix the leaking bilges though but since that was a simple matter of applying epoxy I didn't think I could ruin it. Boy was I wrong... Off course I made to much which I decided to put to good use and since turning the boat upright with the bilges in a fresh layer of epoxy was out of the question I decided that the entire hull would get a new layer for good measure. When the epoxy had dried I saw in dismay how the epoxy had created a very unsmooth result. Some sanding later I managed to sand through the entire layer of epoxy in a few places and decided that I needed a good epoxy basis so I had no other choice then to apply an all new layer of epoxy with glass fibre to make sure the whole boat would be watertight. Then my wife got involved in a road accident while waiting in her car for the car before her to turn off of the road she was on. Someone 2 cars behind didn't pay attention and in his negligence ended the life of the driver of the car behind my wifes car. With this accident om my mind I didn't get to modelling at all but now I'm starting to pick things up again.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/af/c6/afc6f89b4751592d137677adaa839e9a.jpg)
After having applied the epoxy and glass I started filling and tried to improve on that as well. Unfortunately I made too much and realized a little too late that it was already hardening to be able to create a smooth result like I tried to achieve.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/67/f7/67f7826ca0e9174b428c0ef6c32e5068.jpg)
What is that black stuff I hear you asking, well that is another learning moment. After having applied the epoxy and glass I decided that an additional layer of epoxy would be a good idea but I wanted to focus 1 side of the hull over the other since that side hade been a bit out of reach in the earlier stages. So I flipped her on 1 side laying straight on the newspapers I put there to protect the table. The idea wasn't really bad but I did not think about the epoxy would want to lay flat like water. So all exces epoxy moved over the bottom to where the boat touched the newspapers and thereby glued the newspapers to the hull. Won't be doing that anymore...
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/03/ed/03ed56f7db7add8d12b8759e03ef833c.jpg)
After a good while sanding she starts to look a lot better. Still, I only got as far as just past de bow.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6e/b5/6eb5ba374f15f584bda42495b2d822ed.jpg)
I haven't yet gotten around sanding here.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/47/cb/47cb4335dbb515273167dceb6e9b5374.jpg)
Thought it would be a good idea to check if the boat is watertight now and the verdict is that she now is watertight!!.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/77/b1/77b179844293aa0af623518dd1f5b461.jpg)
This side clearly needs a lot more attention, work in progress.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f3/02/f3023d0b2e3a4b889100f235cc36152b.jpg)
Looks huge from this angle! I'd better start rowing out of here!!
Greetings Josse
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Sorry to hear about your wife, that must have been a very bad experience for her and of course yourself. Love your openness and honesty with this build. A really interesting and complex subject.
Will keep an eye for your build notes.
All the best Martin
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Hello Martin,
Thanks, it sure was quite a shock. I wans't in the car myself, I was driving our other car not far from the accident though I did see the aftermath. That alone was quite shocking. Fortunately my wife and son walked away scarred free.
I sure am not making this build easy on myself. I do learn a lot through this proces though, that also means a lot. I decided to show a bit more of the proces because it could have made my learning curve easier if others would have been this open too. Not that I want to blame anyone just to be clear on that. It's just that I like to learn from my mistakes and findings.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Jose,
Experience is such a wonderful tutor. Do not worry about learning opportunities, I create them by the bucket load. I've been building a hull from scratch for about nine months now, maybe more and I am still at the frame stage. I must have rebuilt it four or five times already, and its likely I will still have to rebuild parts of it.
I could say we are having similar training in some way. I am certainly creating similar learning opportunities for myself.
Good to hear your wife and son are okay after such an ordeal. Cannot wait until you start with the electrics.
All the best Martin
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Hi Martin,
Learning makes life interesting to me, so there's no bad feelings in that regard. Though I must admit a start to get frustrated about the fact that each time I get really close to a properly painted hull (let's not forget I started building this hull 8 years ago, that being the second attempt because of lack of patience making the project last a total of 14 years now) something gets in the way, either be new experience or bad luck. All the while the weather is putting up a huge middle finger to me with temperatures this late in the season still close to 20 degrees Celsius. Normally painting would be out of the question several weeks ago but the coming week only the rain can spoil the fun.
Electrics you say? Don't get me started! For myself I devided this project into 4 subprojects. Let's be honest, each subproject is large and demanding enough to be project itself. These are: building the boat, the electronics (PWM modules, port expanders etc, also build into PCB's that I design myself), building the transmitter and the programming. The programming can also best be devided into 2 subprojects: programming for the boat and for the transmitter. The programming does need to be somewhat parallel from the point I get connection through the transceivers so I can keep track of how the changes react on the other part. If you want to learn patience, I can't think of a better way to learn!
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
I DID IT!! Well, almost that is. After removing the masking tape from the regions where the new bulwark will be placed I found some crumbling filler at deck level. That will need to be fixed before I can install the new bulwark. Since I need new supplies for that and the temperatures are finally dropping towards normal I decided to call it a day and first attend what needs to be fixed and continue in the spring next year. Since I had so much bad luck the last 6 months the result still feels like a great victory to me!
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/04/9e/049ebd165b7abdd17ee85f52d51f1b79.jpg)
Tried my new airbrush which has immidiately proven itself to be a worthy addition to my toolbox. I did need to buy an extra airbrush gun though since I broke a nozzle on the first 1. The new gun proved much more capable for the large surface that is the hull without having tried the largest needle yet so a very worthy addition as well, even though I managed to save the first gun with help from the manufacturer.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c4/c4/c4c482e7e2bf92b41e6373e1ab22df61.jpg)
Took the crew out as well for the occasion.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/35/ec/35ecda11c74f625edbbdeecd3b63807c.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/0c/49/0c497fff2d05292d1b3aa3dd2fe72215.jpg)
Now that the hull is painted I will shift focus to the transmitter and the programming. The main superstructure and the main crane will most likely start to take shape behind the scenes as well.
Greetings Josse
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That splash of uniform red paint certainly defines the hull design and is a game changer in our view :-)) ...... Derek
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Hi Derek,
Thanks for the kind words!
Greetings Josse
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Looking good Jose,
The weather here (Ireland) is proving to be very unusual, lots of storms and strangely warm for this time of year.
All the best
Martin
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Thanks Martin!
The weather here is also still strangely warm for the time of the year though not nearly summer warm again. The entire month octobre the heat records have been broken here, but now the temperature dropped to around 10 degrees C so to cold for painting.
Greetings Josse
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Happy new year!!!
Unfortunately sickness appeared to find me way to well last couple of months, keeping me from modelling for far too long a time.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/70/e3/70e336abca79f43314ba7bdbb2e800fe.jpg)
The transmitter extension is now fully wired. This was not all to easy because I insist that the wiring and electronics inside the extension make sure things work as intended instead of controlling this using the Pi in the transmitter.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/85/00/8500eb1edffca36a1aaa9b8cc01d17a3.jpg)
The last 2 types of PCB I designed arrived. I placed the stern PCB more forward then I originally intended due to the room in the stern needed for other components.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d6/70/d670e1b047483b33404ce6d1cd65deac.jpg)
The stern will be quite cramped with the propulsion and crane components. Since especially the bowthruster engines give no room whatsoever to connect any means for registring the revs I decided to try Hall effect sensors to the side of the engine housing, hoping that will enable me to register the revs of the engine.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/38/32/3832fd608807f98ad07097111386ab6d.jpg)
Because of the room needed for the pumps and interior in the bow I decided to place the bow electronics right next to the centre electronics.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/1a/bc/1abcc6f5f1fc57c3710cefe4620beb12.jpg)
This also fits a lot better.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/55/b1/55b12719d3ef3732b43b07cbee2536ef.jpg)
The PCB's for the superstructure have also arrived though I need to order modified versions of these since there is not enough room to safely mount the LED's here, let alone the shortage of room for connecting the glass fibres for distributing the light.
Greetings Josse
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Happy New year Josse!
It's good to see you're making some progress despite your recent illness holding you back.
Hope things improve for you soon.
Ray.
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Thanks Ray, I sure hope I'm now done with all the flues. I hope everyone will have a healthy year!
For now I still have 1 week of christmas holiday left so I think I can get things going. On wednesday I'll be programming with my father, hoping to see if the Adafruit Motorhats are powerful enough for the main propulsion. I also intend to replace my FDM 3D printer in a month and a half since my current printer hasn't worked properly for well over a year now. I plan to have the 3D model for the new transmitter fully finished before the printer arrives so I can get it to work right away.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
Recently I discovered that my newest PCB's have some design faults. First of all, both have the chip connected to the ground through 2 ways, one of those ways should have been connected to the + so now the chips wil not work. To make things work, I apparantly found the correct + on the chip when I worked on the superstructure PCB design and thus connected a 3,3V voltage regulator to the + of the chip and therefor also to the ground on the I2C. The result when powering up was some smoke and a tiny flame from the voltage regulator. The design has been modified to correct the mistake.
While connecting more and more I2C devices (everything is connected now) I found that the power this draws from the Pi makes the voltage drop too low so the Pi won't start. This still applies when powering the Pi from a USB power socket from the wall. This issue has now been resolved by using the 3,3V regulator on the hull PCB's.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/9f/10/9f10ee09befd024c4e53e44702c026ba.jpg)
Since the superstructure PCB's all have there own onboard 3,3V regulator I don't need a + cable attached for the I2C. However, the voltage must be within a range of 0,7V difference for this to work, so if the lowest voltage is 3V, the highest cannot exceed 3,7V.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/26/a5/26a57ef9717ba47b5fc47263d49c3757.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/16/10/1610eb7b6b785a45552ceab6f31d56e7.jpg)
Next wednesday I plan on testing the main engines controlled by an Adafruit motorhat. Is that test fails, I need 2 new ESC's. The first 9-DOF sensor has been placed all the way back, hoping to have as little interference as possible.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/bf/11/bf11792a4f6df36946ef4f163977a7f8.jpg)
I might make a nicely 3D printed support here but this is way better already.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/dc/b6/dcb6bf5f3f23363547aa550e43be8fbb.jpg)
This PCB as intended to be placed further back, but there was no room there. This is the next best thing.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/38/89/388998d580d69e0ebbeb41a956c614ca.jpg)
The final version of the transmitter is starting to take shape as well. Unfortunately I run out of black PLA filament, but since there were quite some bumps which need to be filled and sanded I also need to paint the entire transmitter anyways, so it doesn't matter anymore what colour PLA I use.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse,
Sounds like you have been really busy and are making great progress, inspiring in fact. Do you have a schematic of all your arduino, Pi workings that I could look at. I'm always interested to see how experts do things.
All the best
Martin
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Josse.......not an electronic question, but would the STDB side belt tensioner toothed pulley not be better placed externally pressing on the belt on then, therefore providing a greater arc of contact to the motor and the bladed drive unit? ....
Or, does the STDB side motor box need a little tension in the FWD direction?
Derek
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Josse.......not an electronic question, but would the STDB side belt tensioner toothed pulley not be better placed externally pressing on the belt on then, therefore providing a greater arc of contact to the motor and the bladed drive unit? ....
Or, does the STDB side motor box need a little tension in the FWD direction?
Derek
Hi Derek,
That is a good question. Currently, I'm looking into what component could best be placed where. Though I do prefer on the inside since the pulley is first of all intended for driving a wheel for measuring the RPM from the engine rather then tensioning it. Though I do intend to use the pulley for both at the same time. I'll most likely end up 3D printing an adjustable carriage for tensioning the belt.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse,
Sounds like you have been really busy and are making great progress, inspiring in fact. Do you have a schematic of all your arduino, Pi workings that I could look at. I'm always interested to see how experts do things.
All the best
Martin
Hi Martin,
Please find attached the schematics for both Well Enhancer and the transmitter. These schematics are not up to date anymore but the general idea remains the same.
Greetings Josse
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Thanks Jose,
Very interesting. I look forward to seeing it more detail when the information becomes available. I'm using Arduino for stabilisation, step motor and servo drivers, your work is very interesting.
All the best
Martin
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Hey guys,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/93/e3/93e30d4c41b7d8b2cc04f731f78ecaa3.jpg)
This week I continued the work on the propulsion. I designed and printed the first parts for a belt tensioner/ RPM meter. I will place a spring on here so I can tension the belt while measuring the RPM through the encoder/ encoder wheel.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/bb/6a/bb6ada8a60dbcf6553099b41b9c89526.jpg)
This is what it will probably look like in the end, now make myself a shaft for this so I can finish this small project.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/01/5c/015ca6dad3c249e6fd4f3552d300eed5.jpg)
Most likely I will put the encoder wheel below the gearwheel rather than like I showed here. That has everything to do with the height the encoder needs.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ea/b1/eab1669d54fd8dc106d7df008021f01e.jpg)
I added the inserts on the transmitter so I can now mount all the electronics.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b0/d8/b0d8489d1c3752c631be865c070036ab.jpg)
Made some room in the bow for the front positioning sensor (9-DOF). Also prepared the wiring (0,1mm thick wire) for the Suezlight that will be decorating the bow and licht the way ahead really very good as well.
Greetings Josse
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Very tidy Josse...... :-))
regards
Derek
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Wow ... I mean wow in many different senses!
For some reason, I have been missing your thread all these years.
You are persistent - going on even longer than I.
I'm sad about your budgie! I hope my two amazon parrots will outlive my project.
So you are quite serious about your build O0
I mean - control is one thing. But how are you going to fit dozens and dozens of servos and step motors is beyond me.
As a computer professional, I appload your outside the box approach. That's the way to go: Total freedom O0
I went for OpenTx, almost fully programmable traditional RC, ONE servo, two motors %) . It is, after all, my first build.
I admire your working stamina, persistence and ambition. And the smile on your face in every photo :D
Regards, Hande
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Thanks for the kind words!
How I will fit all steppers and servo's into this project is good question. That is a challenge that still lies ahead of me though it floats through my head from time to time. It does help this is quite a big model and servo's aren't so big anymore.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5b/ba/5bbab17b6dc016b960a42da8fd4cc81d.jpg)
I started building the final board computer. I still need to determine which PCB will be where and place the holes accordingly. I began by making room for the wiring to pass through. The new fuse box will most likely end up being placed in front of the new board computer rather then attached to it.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/26/e2/26e236ab157d1f7b8f616e16e736d379.jpg)
While I was trying the program the transmitter I ran into possible wiring issues so I decided to go ahead and finish building the final transmitter, where the first step was to fill and paint the transmitter. So I did just that.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/65/66/6566d5a5648432e13a43394f7f099e92.jpg)
I also mounted the joysticks. The wiring in the background is still wrapped up to prevent accidental painting through the holes for the joysticks. Currently I'm still trying to find a good solution for protecting the joysticks PCB from the elements.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/15/94/1594df3584d9bd67af24a749d4e88c90.jpg)
This starts to look like a real transmitter. A few more buttons and a rotary encoder are still to be added though. According to my planning I now got to 34% of making the transmitter, most of the remaining 66% comes down to programming.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5c/e9/5ce9727292556d4fe47c4526078bb8b6.jpg)
Measuring is knowing is a Dutch saying, I screwed it up a bit here. First of all I discovered that my PLM 3D printer is not capable of creating M2,5 thread reliably enough to be usable, which I can fix with threaded inserts. I measured the width between the holes but got them wrong in 1 direction. I fixed this now so I can start printing the new versions.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/72/87/7287e99df0d4d4c1826654104858699b.jpg)
Quite useful to have 3D software since it gives insight in what you're doing so much easier and faster.
Greetings Josse
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It's elegant and effetive, Josse :-))
I don't know, but for no reason, I was expecting to see a keyboard and other aspects of general purpose computing.
How easy is it to repurpose the knobs and switches?
And most of all, I wonder, how did you end up with this exact number of them? Are there spares to be programmed for a different vessel?
Are you making provisions for controlling a number of different models - at the same time, or at least one at a time?
I'm intrigued by your software approach and the way it is embedded in your system
Good job!
Hande
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Hi Hande,
I can understand your reasoning about the keyboard, I did try to use a laptop as transmitter (Arduino Uno with the same 2,4GHz transceiver I have now attached to a USB port) but couldn't get it to work.
The big problem with a keyboard for control is the need to memorize all the key combinations, so using these joysticks in combination with the switches that are to be programmed into the touchscreen is much more intuitive, which is quite important for controlling so much functions.
How I came at the number? I anticipate a maximum of 3 bow thrusters for any 1 project, so that gives the 3 middle joysticks. The other 12 was a bit of guesswork for what would practicaly fit in a transmitter this size. The commands I generate from this are build up out ot 2 digits and a value. The first digit represents the currently selected function group (for all propulsion inputs this is fixed to 0, the non-propulsion functions have A-Z), followed by a digit unique to each axis of a joystick. The function group is selected from the touchscreen, where I also have a bar indicating what joystick has what function. This gives room for 648 analogue functions.
For as far as controlling several models at the same time, this is partly the case, the lifeboats will be controlled from the transmitter at the same time as the ship. To be more precise, the commands for the lifeboat go through the ship, probably to the Bluetooth module of the Pi and then to the lifeboats. Controlling several larger models I do not intent to have any provisions since that would require paying attention to models that can be on different sides of the pont which makes it quite difficult. The lifeboats will have very limited time to sail and therefore stay close to the ship.
My intent is that the transmitter is a simple command spitting device, the boat receives the commands and distributes these to the correct PCB or PCB's. Some functions (mainly some controlled from the touchscreen) start a sub program like random turning on 48 groups of LED's, some of which controlled by a relay because of the amount of LED's and some having only 1 LED with some glass fibres attached to it. There will also be a sub program that uses the 9-DOF sensors to control the propulsion in such a way that the boat can hold position, optionaly with possibilities for holding position relative to a an object or other model. This program will be the icing on the cake, most likely coming at the end of the project.
Greetings Josse
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Thank you for taking time for the description!
I understand much better now how it is going to work.
It will be a true wonder-on-the-waves!!
What awes me is the sheer processing speed of your brain that is required to actually operate the vessel :o
I tend to get lost with my two sticks and four switches... :embarrassed:
In the Netherlands, do you have peers, mentors, fellow modelers that share your ambition anywhere close to yours ?
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Are these vessels related to your Well Enhancer in any way?
Nord Stream 2018 Gulf of Finland (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,69144.msg750102.html#msg750102)
cheers, Hande
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Hi Hande,
The Nord Stream vessels are indeed the same kind as Well Enhancer.
For the sheer amount of functions it really helps to have (digital) labels showing what does what. The on/off functions are simply toggled by pressing on the name (for example "Navigation lights") In the bottom of the screen I'll have labels for every axis of the joysticks indicating the current function of that axis. That way there's no need to memorize everything since all will be straightforward anyways. In reality I'll never be able to control all the joysticks at the same time since I have only 10 fingers and a total of 17 joysticks (including the 2 on the extension, one of my future projects will even have a 3rd on it's extension), though 1 of the 3 bowthruster joysticks is not in use in this project. Speaking of which, thanks for this conversation. I'm currently in the proces of wiring and almost forgot that I want the bowthruster joysticks from the front of the transmitter to the back, meaning the not in use joystick is closest to the touchscreen so I don't need to reach over the other 2 to control it. I almost had this wired the other way around...
My father is my mentor for programming since he programs for a living and is quite skilled in the datamanagement side of Python, the programming language I use for programming the functions and he also knows CodeTyphon which I use for the touchscreen interface. For modelbuilding I used to have a good mentor I knew back in the day I was a member of a shipmodel club but I haven't been in touch with him for a couple of years. In terms of building it's me and the internet. I am educated for desinging ships so I have some knowledge on the subject. On the subject of a club, it appears there is no such club near where I live so joining such a club will be difficult in the near future.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
Currently I'm focused on getting the final transmitter working.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/0a/99/0a99e64bbd74c84b205dc2c2785f507a.jpg)
Pretty much all of the electronics are now in place and I started wiring so I can start testing and programming.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/0a/99/0a99e64bbd74c84b205dc2c2785f507a.jpg)
The most difficult part was the center part. This is the most crowded part, firstly because of the extra joystick here but also because of the powerbank (I have a 27000mAh powerbank) that will be installed on top of this.
Greetings Josse
-
Hey guys,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/9d/b7/9db74b6c5fb160259d74ee157caca458.jpg)
Today I made another big step towards finishing the transmitter. The joysticks now only need a power connection and then I can start testing. I still need to design a mounting for holding the powerbank in such a way that i can also help to keep the electronics in place.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/83/5c/835c472174374dcc0a87253834a3a3c4.jpg)
Here is where I keep track of all the electrical connections and status of wiring and all related items. This list also includes all the functions inside the boat in the same format.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/4e/5a/4e5ae51cb38eb889fa957e59ce8117a6.jpg)
As you can see, building the transmitter as going fast towards its end right now. I'm quite happy with this planning since it gives so much more insight and helps think several steps ahead as well.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f2/a0/f2a0ff2b2de5450924356464aebc88a3.jpg)
This planning I started last year for creating some sense on where I am and what I need to do and also to be used as a sort of notepad for things I thought about. There are several tabs behind this where all the different tasks are written down with estimates on time to spend and time already spend. Please note that nothing that was done before I made this planning is included so the 11,7% overall is not really representative since building the hull is not included in this.
Greetings Josse
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Hello everyone,
Today I continued the work on the transmitter. As things are going now I'm hoping to be able to finish the wiring ans electronics next week. I only just start to realise what that actually means after having been thinking about how to control my boat for 14 years now!
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/93/67/9367df4804f03d02786099a6233b8039.jpg)
Now that the joysticks are nearly ready I decided to put some attention to the rear of the transmitter. I attached the reset button (activating this will cut the power entirely instantly, hopefully I don't need to use this at all) and placed a rotary encoder and also started wiring this. The rotary encoder can be used to manually select a channel for the transceiver. When I have these parts sorted out I got quite some cleaning up to do with regards to the wiring...
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/bb/a9/bba95ceb5a46b0f1321c12960136fd42.jpg)
On the left of this photo I made the power connections for the PCF analogue/digital converters so now all the wiring in this section is finished. I also started to clean up the wiring a bit.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6b/d3/6bd3781b1581d8587e88b0db86e3bb3c.jpg)
I started this morning with just a thought in my head, but thanks to the power of 3D printers the glue is already drying. Here it was very important not to forget the hole for the USB cables. Fortunetaly I made the hole bigger then I thought I needed by measuring the powerbank, if I hadn't, the cables wouldn't have fitted through.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/0b/f3/0bf3b8c8e1141d58dd538667a9cd6048.jpg)
I like the ribbon cables since those greatly help to keep things clear and recognizable.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/0e/64/0e64690a232e49ce58bb00b39901f810.jpg)
Below the powerbank I attach each mounting with a single screw since I need a lot of room for the wiring and since these mountings will rest on the bottom plate when that is screwed in place this isn't going anywhere anyways.
Greetings Josse
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This is way above my knowledge but I truly like to see your work, and I'm following this with great interest!
Hama
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Thanks for your interest and following me Hama. I'm still learning about pretty much everything I'm doing here because I'm also not the most educated person both with regards to building, mostly with the electronics and programming but I'm still to really finish my first working model. I got close once with a Billing Boats Banckert some 20 years ago but that didn't look nearly as good as Well Enhancer is now shaping up to be.
Hi everyone,
The lost couple of months I barely got any work done on Well Enhancer. This is mostly due to the arrival of our newest spouse now 9 weeks ago!
I have been working on several ideas for both new tools and how to continue the build and working those ideas out in 3D CAD. First of all I had the idea of upgrading my Ender 3 S1 with a laser engraver module, though I quicky realised that the 3D printer is too small for the kind of parts I'd like to make laser cut (first and foremost the superstructure and if this works out good, also more styrene work and quite possibly even frames for future models when the time arrives) so I decided to a friend of mine who has a suitable laser engraver. Since I made this decision I started drafting the superstructure in 3D CAD as can be seen below. In this process I decided to completly replace the second deck that is now nicely painted on the boat because the walls are too high and the deck is quite short requiring a seem which I need to make invisible at some point.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/9c/69/9c69e6f286bf52016cc8a596528e063e.jpg)
I have also been busy solving the problems with the beld tensioner. This problem is now nearly solved though I do need to design the new holder for the sensor. It has now become a moving arm with a gearbox mounted on it making it possible to accurately measure the RPM while the tensioner is free to move at will. I had decided to print the gears and shafts with the resin printer (a Creality Halot One), however, this printer is refusing it's call for duty for some strange reason. At this point I've basically decided to replace it in the future by an Elegoo Mars 4 Max. This is as big on the outside as the Halot One but has almost twice the screen diagonal making it possible to print the wheelhouse in 4 parts rather then 6 to 8 whilst the Elegoo is also more accurate. In the meantime I build a fixed closet with room for both printers (with air purifiers and lighting) so they are nicely out of the way with all needed equipment and supplies close by.
A little while ago I stumbled upon a YouTube video showing AS5600 Hall Effect angle sensors. These are accurate to 0,05 degree's (far more then the angle for half a step from the stepper motors) whilst also not having any friction at all. Right now I'm planning the modifications I need to make to house these PCB's both for the angle and for the throttle. Since these PCB's communicate through I2C I need to add an I2C multiplexer in order to have the same adresses in all versions of the add-on for the transmitter (this in light of wanting to be able to make an add-on specifically for each model I will build in the future) but this is only a very minor bump on the road. This does mean that I can forget sailing her this year already, perhaps next year will be the year..
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/7d/29/7d299d34f44e6711a9e871edf9cc8b81.jpg)
I did put the boat in the water again, this showed there is a leak on the rear bowthruster and it proved that the inlet for the rear cooling water pump is blocked.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/68/a9/68a976c2696ec542f4300fb0781fe6fc.jpg)
For fathersday my sons gave me a nice little sideproject that will be of huge benefit for practicing painting with the airbrush, mostly also for weathering.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/69/47/69479c623e5a51476411f757c362b32b.jpg)
This is PT 109, painted in the colours in which she was commanded by the later US president John F Kennedy.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6d/3e/6d3ed6e96dc77a6f78a2c5b154f0000d.jpg)
Apparently this kit can float as well.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/da/59/da59d0f1a144865a7fb0c9f072b9d03a.jpg)
Also trying out the putty if I'm practicing anyways.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/df/22/df227295180cb36eb2c9089cc066d4a7.jpg)
So far I'm quite pleased with the result with the airbrush though I have found some things I need to improve on.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/fc/e6/fce61661221a09f2942c2cb396e912c7.jpg)
I also started designing the main crane, perticularly the part inside the hull so I make sure I have the room there. I will need to cut into the 2 longitudenal girders here to make room for the crane, and I need to find a proper way to have the crane rest on the deck. The main design challenge here is how to properly connect the wiring because the videocable makes it impossible to use an off the shelf slip ring. I will therefore make the crane itself into a slip ring by applying 5 lanes of copper tape around the crane and having an endstop with a metal roller as means of end sensing electrified rolling against the copper tape. This allows for a not fully smooth surface (for example where the wire is connected to the copper tape) and I already checked that there is no resistance between the arm and the surface of the roller itself. This week I expect to receive the copper tape so I can start proving the concept.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/e7/09/e709ec5047d5158d39b7b0af18ee6399.jpg)
Things are starting to take shape, though I need somewhat bigger margins for the stepper motor. Currently my Ender 3 3D printer is printing a mold for drilling the mounting holes for these components. The Pi Zero seen on the longitudenal girder will have 2 camera's attached (1 of which placed in the crane house) and will serve as a WiFi server sending the video footage back to the transmitter in real time. For this purpose I intend to build bouys with build in WiFi repeaters to boost the range at which I can have first person view from either of the 6 on board camera's, not counting the camera's on the ROV's for which I still need to find a proper solution.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/11/39/113918fa1dd6f779d372410e5f957690.jpg)
In the meantime I'm also working on finalizing the design off the joystick, for which a few test prints are used here to show where things are going. The disc behind the slip ring is an older version where the hole for the slip ring turned out to be too small, which is clearly fixed now. The new version hasn't printed fully yet, but also incorporates new features such as a means of keeping the throttle lever in position (friction based) and room for the wiring of the PCB to the slip ring.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/29/3c/293cd148293a39c4955b3ceb616f745b.jpg)
The inner workings off the joystick, though I just relealized that I haven't taken the thickness of the slip ring and the plate showing the angle of the joystick.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/9e/f8/9ef83d86a78e5c0346e208a8f362b0e7.jpg)
This is what it all will look like.
Greetings Josse
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Amazing to see how things are coming together Jose.
It really is great to see how you are working things out and adapting to different results.
Thank you for sharing your journey
Martin
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Thanks for your kind words Martin!
I hope to be an inspiration for others who are thinking about going outside the box and their comfort zone, but more importantly, I hope I can learn from this and that others can learn from the mistakes I made. To me seeing a build log where all the good things are shown are nice to see but I personally like the ones where the mistakes are shown as well more of an inspiration.
Greetings Josse
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Hey guys,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/36/48/364817af5799ed18926a14749f5fceab.jpg)
In the past couple of weeks If made the first steps towards working camera's on board, starting with the first 1. I will use 6 Pi Zero's with WiFi and each with 1 camera (mostly 160 degree field of view camera's) with MotionEyeOS as operating system installed making it a wireless camera.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/7e/e9/7ee97c0a8588a2319ae4a8893667c702.jpg)
Apparantly resin for 3D printers has a limited lifespan so I decided to start working on the wheelhouse since I already have the resin in the needed colour. Due to the size of my resin 3D printers and the need to put windows in their frames I'm building the wheelhouse out of 12 pieces. That is the reason why the windows are not closed at the top. These 4 pieces are still far from finished since all interior connected to the floor will also be included in here including all the dials and lighted instrument panels, so most of the work is still to come.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d6/4b/d64b2826837566dbf9140b4ef70da74d.jpg)
It's been 15 years in the making now but my original intend is starting to take real shape now, albeit mostly digital at the moment.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
Not much happened lately, though what I did has a great impact for the future.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/2d/10/2d1058f7657ab7650ad82186390dd3c1.jpg)
Finally I managed to get my resin 3D printer to work as intended!! The result is 2 new throttle handle disks. This also gives the green light for more resin 3D printing.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/2b/23/2b23f7de2ab789b573f50955e3982253.jpg)
This is the full rear half off the wheelhouse prepared to be printed. I took great advantage of the fact the second half is precisely mirrored from the other not counting the interior.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/72/07/7207688d65eaa2ad2b50933300b933b6.jpg)
I also managed to get the crane foundation in the correct shape so I can continue the work on the design of the crane too.
With this result my planning tells me I now got to 15% completion, counting since last summer.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
The first results for the wheelhouse are in!
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/4b/5f/4b5f1187c46938a686995d8c2bb5ec5f.jpg)
Though not really what I hoped for. Since the supports that connected to the window frames are much thicker then the window frames it proved impossible not to break the window frames (no poop Sherlock) so I'll manually place the supports for the next attempt so as to not have any supports on the window frames. I also found that the floor needs to be much thicker to stay straight which has now been corrected in de model, tomorrow I'll try again with the modified version. I discovered this problem after having started the print containing the front half of the wheelhouse and the crane foundation so I stopped this print, leaving me with some small pieces on both ends. The detailing that I put into these pieces turned out to be really good so I'm really happy with that.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/cb/00/cb009ccd623ef16de67a4fbce66a8870.jpg)
It's quite hard to tell but at the captains feet the tracks for the helmsmans chair can be seen. This way the helmsman can sit behind every part of the main instrumentpanel without the risk of his chair flying around the wheelhouse in a breeze. Unfortunately the 2 chairs here can only be fixed in place since this is still behind the superstructure and thus I can not use tracks like I do with the forward chairs. These tracks are 0,2mm thick at it's thickest so they're really tiny. I also made a slot for putting the 0,1mm thick wire for the instrument panel lighting which actually passes underneath the track for the chair at it's very latest. For the lighting the + wire will pass through either on starboard or port, the - on the wire, thus making good use of the fact that both rear quarters are pretty much mirror image from 1 another, except for the track for the charis which runs further to portside as the instrument panel is slightly offset to portside.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f9/9d/f99dbc979a6a36bff1b9d8b04be031e7.jpg)
If you look close enough you can see the joints in the ceiling plates. I really love the level of detail these resin printers can achieve.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/73/17/7317f2324b6bae90a59b0814a13b5136.jpg)
In the print for the front of the wheelhouse I also included to outer shell of the crane foundation on deck, though here the infill was not yet implemented to give it proper strength for just in case I decide to put some force on it. By now the 3rd attempt for the foundation has been stopped because there was no more resin in the vat... The hole in the foundation is purposely wide since the design of the crane that will pass through has changed since the print visible in blue here. I decided it is a good idea to have the weight of the crane being kept in check by the deck and therefore I widened the crane from deck level onwards. The new version will not be printed before I at least finish the design of the lower crane with the crane house and driving mechanics and Pi Zero so as to not waste more material then needed.
Tomorrow I intent to start the new attempt with some design modifications and corrections such as the overhang behind the rear bulkhead of the superstructure below the wheelhouse and means for wiring for the lighting of the instrument panels and the floodlights that will be mounted at the rear of the wheelhouse. The overhang will certainly have something to do with the wiring for the propulsion as there is a helm station placed on the overhang and since the wiring requires to be doubled up in ways that a fire in 1 room cannot take out both sets of wiring this well finished overhang should have been expected. Further more I'm getting really close to the point that I'm going to have the more shaped walls and walls with windows in the superstructure milled, at the end of this week I hope to know more about this but the first couple of files are ready.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/8e/26/8e26bb50c9d868a8c472a2f7683ec83f.jpg)
After some further design modications I printed the parts for the belt tensioner and rev counter out of resin. Some parts are yet to be printed in the latest design iteration before I can start assembling the hole thing. Speaking about printing with resin, I decided that I will have the arm of the main crane 3D printed out of extra strong resin at a shop in Hong Kong because they can print such objects up to 78cm long, much more then I need but can therefore print it in 1 piece for extra strength. I will print PLA inserts for mounting the winches and there motors becsuse of the threaded inserts that work well in PLA but not in resin.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/70/9b/709b283a740116e24e3c3b1002363380.jpg)
After that I continued work on the brains and heart of the boat, starting with making a new brain. This ended up working fine with 1 less plate then originally anticipated saving a bit of space for the wiring in the proces.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/90/ea/90ead6933190272000e1e6a7c87da8af.jpg)
I also made a new fuse box. In this fuse box the last 3 fuses are fused through the 3rd fuse, 2 of the last 3 are switched by relais (hence the holes in the topplate, the switches will fit through these holes) so I can sail the boat without loosing power on additional functions that are not being used.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b0/2d/b02d0e8221700733549027c77b7501ce.jpg)
The wiring will need quite a bit of attention as it is a mess now. I do need some new switches before I can really clean it all up. The topplate for the fuse box also serves as a support for the main computer topplate.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/37/22/3722dfc0536f84298d13db9f0c3372d5.jpg)
As can be seen here the end result will look quite neat though I'll have plenty to do to get there. The fuse box still needs to be fixed in place, the main computer has now been fixed though the topplate will need more work to fix in place.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/32/c8/32c8ccc96f1b3fc915ce1d2fa0ce2abe.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5f/76/5f76f967bed4402e507b71d2a1b4684f.jpg)
Slowly things are starting to take shape but I still have a long way to go.
Greetings Josse
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The rear deck is quite low to the waterline, how will you keep the water away from the electrics?
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Hi Steve,
The rear deck will have proper hatches installed with watertight seals. I can understand that it seems the deck is low to the waterline but in reality it's almost 5cm above the water, the illusion is partly because the styrene sides are actually overlapping the hull by 2cm to ensure a strong attachement to the hull due to previous experience with mostly the forward bulwark. Besides this, this boat is 29,7cm wide and 176cm long, giving quite good handling and much room for water to go before even reaching critical parts. I've sailed the first attempt in higher waves on a windy day with the deck still loose and she barely got any water in, as can be seen in this youtube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mnvUlzYR08I
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f7/14/f7147335a6161f219529feb788388a33.jpg)
At the moment the walls for the superstructure are being CNC-ed so I decided to pick up the pace on making the interior construction so I can build up the superstructure when the walls come in. Due to available height the front PCB will protrude a little below the superstructure, but this is not a problem.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ab/44/ab44239629e15b1aefba157b001169fe.jpg)
I purposely make most of the cabins on a smaller scale then the rest of the boat to creat the illusion that the cabins are full size even though there not because of the electronics in the superstructure. I wanted to print the interior in 2 parts, but that requires quite a lot of support to print properly. Splitting the interior in 4 parts in total fully illimenates the need for support by putting the parts on their sides.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f7/df/f7df9e8dd143c94af8600a1336e96536.jpg)
After some more design changes the tensioners are now finished apart from the sensor that will register the RPM of the engines. The mounting for these sensors turned out not to fit quite well yet, though it probably will work fine, so I'll redesign these mountings to make it fit better.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/00/69/0069dbd3e5473f90830e91dfe06d5f06.jpg)
In my previous post the new wheelhouse print was already visible but I forgot to mention it, so let's correct that now.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/cd/a8/cda8bc3f971291904892a8a0adb3cfdd.jpg)
Here the detail in the ceiling is quite clearly visible, this will be in the entire wheelhouse.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6a/3b/6a3b15dfa7ef0e0906f725bdb0353d41.jpg)
Since this part failed it is a good test subject for trying paint and glue.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/80/90/80907378456b1fd64db6634ba1c72636.jpg)
This is the newer and better version now painted with the black primer, now I need to get myself some white primer to make the end result as white as possible.
Greetings Josse
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Hi Josse,
Looking Good! :-))
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Thanks a lot Martin!
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Hi all,
Considering that power in the boat is crucial programming and testing I decided to unravel the wiring and start working towards finalising the main power supply and computer in the center of the ship. In doing this I found the reason I thought my Step down converter for the Pi was broken, I didn't connect it to the output side of the switch but rather to the LED connector which only gets 3,3V.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/55/8e/558eac9b25331d60ac2c28cc79a1c8fe.jpg)
A small impression of the mess I started with, including the surrounding components to make it a good looking box.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/30/e2/30e21cb2724d1eb6be6a2a37634ead30.jpg)
I started with sorting out the wiring to get the best possible sight at which wire is which.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d2/10/d210196f8c2f928a0bad4680215ecb1a.jpg)
After quite a bit of fiddling I managed to clean up most of the wiring though lots of it is not fully finished yet, mostly because the still to make wiring for the screen, battery status, multimeter and the circuitry for powering and shutting down the Pi.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b2/e9/b2e9ea913f4e59a60de621c05848374e.jpg)
This is the new version of the topplate though I'll soon print a new one slightly modified version since some parts don't fit all too well.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/90/da/90da926933e2a1fdd7c6fa60b141afae.jpg)
I printed almost a kilo filament into new parts in a week, the printer kept working throughout Christmas as well. One of the results is this engineer mounting housing 2 fire pumps (the second one will be mounted to the rear) and also some electronics.
(http://[url=https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/22/4a/224a61fee5a4334193ccc0c323192877.jpg%5b/img]https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/22/4a/224a61fee5a4334193ccc0c323192877.jpg[/img[/url]]
Made quite a big decision here. Rather then even trying to skeeze a camera, some servo’s and motors into a 4x4x3cm small ROV and trying to make a cable anywhere near scale size I decided to make a hangar with an actual working ROV (which is much bigger) and for which the size of the wire is not relevant as it’s out of sight anyways. The hangar will have a door entering the moonpool so I don’t need to make all to much modifications.
https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/89/be/89be662193baab5443f3553836de449a.jpg
I still need to modify the feet which are to place the hangar at the intended height and I need to give some thought to waterproofing the connection since the lower part of the hangar will be below the waterline. I also printed a nice support for my self-designed PCB and a motorhat that will control the rotation of the crane atop the drilling tower and the crane to the rear of the dive area.
https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/7c/41/7c41f006ef0b7c01d1decf768796ddfb.jpg
Power is back online! I tested a relay setup to switch the extra functions (all kinds of lighting, secondary cranes, fire monitors etc) but the switch that controlled the relay for some reason lowered the 12V I put into it to 2,5V which proved not enough to switch the relay. Therefore I got rid of the relay and it’s switches and put in simpler switches that can handle 3A (which I recon is more then enough since where talking to groups here, so 6A in total) so I can save power when I’m not going to use those functions.
https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/29/c3/29c3bce2b9830136214d1026f8e54ea3.jpg
I still need to glue the LED’s in place, for which I intent to use hot glue.
[url=https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/65/82/65824cdb67df768db4c60af5ae107cfe.jpg%5b/img]https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/65/82/65824cdb67df768db4c60af5ae107cfe.jpg[/img[/url]]
Since the servomodule is quite hard to reach with all the wiring going on in front of it I inserted all the needed servo cables which I also labelled to not get confused later on. I also bundles the cables per part (all cables for the same crane combined for example) and routed the cables towards the location of the to be connected component.
[url=https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c0/21/c021d1fcd4cc2c201be0a5e5c6605d85.jpg%5b/img]https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c0/21/c021d1fcd4cc2c201be0a5e5c6605d85.jpg[/img[/url]]
The inside of the superstructure is fully printed now, I only need to glue the parts together and mount all the cabins with their lighting and the electronics. In the rear I included holes for mounting 3 fire main lines (2 fire monitors and 1 for fire extinguishing on the helideck) and a hole for the VGA connector which will pass the power- and signal cables to the superstructure.
[url=https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/25/56/2556bd030c1eee5ee220c84cbcb73c92.jpg%5b/img]https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/25/56/2556bd030c1eee5ee220c84cbcb73c92.jpg[/img[/url]]
The topplate has all it’s components fitted, now I need to connect all the wiring. I tested the multimeter briefly but I don’t trust it’s readings. It indicated 0,3V and 49,2A (it can handle up to 50A), so I probably made a mistake in the connections. I attached the Amp meter on the – side off the load, perhaps that should be the + side. I also don’t understand why the Volt meter still indicates 0,3V when the Volt meter wires are disconnected.
All in all I still have some things to figure out and quite some wiring to fix in an orderly manner but at least the + side of the groups are now finished so the – side of things is still on the to-do list.
Greeting Josse)
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(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/22/4a/224a61fee5a4334193ccc0c323192877.jpg)
Made quite a big decision here. Rather then even trying to skeeze a camera, some servo’s and motors into a 4x4x3cm small ROV and trying to make a cable anywhere near scale size I decided to make a hangar with an actual working ROV (which is much bigger) and for which the size of the wire is not relevant as it’s out of sight anyways. The hangar will have a door entering the moonpool so I don’t need to make all to much modifications.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/89/be/89be662193baab5443f3553836de449a.jpg)
I still need to modify the feet which are to place the hangar at the intended height and I need to give some thought to waterproofing the connection since the lower part of the hangar will be below the waterline. I also printed a nice support for my self-designed PCB and a motorhat that will control the rotation of the crane atop the drilling tower and the crane to the rear of the dive area.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/7c/41/7c41f006ef0b7c01d1decf768796ddfb.jpg)
Power is back online! I tested a relay setup to switch the extra functions (all kinds of lighting, secondary cranes, fire monitors etc) but the switch that controlled the relay for some reason lowered the 12V I put into it to 2,5V which proved not enough to switch the relay. Therefore I got rid of the relay and it’s switches and put in simpler switches that can handle 3A (which I recon is more then enough since where talking to groups here, so 6A in total) so I can save power when I’m not going to use those functions.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/29/c3/29c3bce2b9830136214d1026f8e54ea3.jpg)
I still need to glue the LED’s in place, for which I intent to use hot glue.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/65/82/65824cdb67df768db4c60af5ae107cfe.jpg)
Since the servomodule is quite hard to reach with all the wiring going on in front of it I inserted all the needed servo cables which I also labelled to not get confused later on. I also bundles the cables per part (all cables for the same crane combined for example) and routed the cables towards the location of the to be connected component.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c0/21/c021d1fcd4cc2c201be0a5e5c6605d85.jpg)
The inside of the superstructure is fully printed now, I only need to glue the parts together and mount all the cabins with their lighting and the electronics. In the rear I included holes for mounting 3 fire main lines (2 fire monitors and 1 for fire extinguishing on the helideck) and a hole for the VGA connector which will pass the power- and signal cables to the superstructure.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/25/56/2556bd030c1eee5ee220c84cbcb73c92.jpg)
The topplate has all it’s components fitted, now I need to connect all the wiring. I tested the multimeter briefly but I don’t trust it’s readings. It indicated 0,3V and 49,2A (it can handle up to 50A), so I probably made a mistake in the connections. I attached the Amp meter on the – side off the load, perhaps that should be the + side. I also don’t understand why the Volt meter still indicates 0,3V when the Volt meter wires are disconnected.
All in all I still have some things to figure out and quite some wiring to fix in an orderly manner but at least the + side of the groups are now finished so the – side of things is still on the to-do list.
Greeting Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/51/25/5125319e5077662c8d00f3c5c5d9cc74.jpg)
My goal for this year is to get Well Enhancer sailing, so I need to finish installing the thrusters. I've been at it for about a week now with some proper steps made towards actually working thrusters. In this photo I collected all the needed parts, including the PCB's that will end up below the stepper motor in order to register the thruster angle.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/bd/82/bd823fb7b5f3d60509364e03c9e26e07.jpg)
I soldered the ribboncable to the PCB off screen but I do need to provide better means off fixing the mounting plate for the PCB then the balsa wood. I designed the plate such that I can align it to the stepper motor.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/7a/99/7a99ceda225d38f1fbab2cb85b0f2bed.jpg)
Coming really close to having the thrusters working! I am going to change the engines back to the old engines that also powered the first version due to poor fitting of the timing pulleys. I will also sort out the wiring a lot more once I tested the thrusters since I think some wires are now not attached anymore.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5d/8b/5d8bd269207e0c63a2ab4f337ec44151.jpg)
The main propulsion is finished for testing! I switched the engines back from the Johnsons to the Speed 500E's I used on the original Well Enhancer, mostly because the drive shafts of the Johnsons is just too big for the timing pulleys, the Speed 500E's don't have this problem. I drilled a hole and tapped M2,5 thread in the hole to secure it. After fixing all these minor issues and finishing the remaining items to get it all working I also tidied up the wiring for as far as it is now finalised, I stopped where I know the wiring still needs to be sorted out. Off screen I also made a cabletree for the I2C wiring to connect the PWM module (and thus the Pi) to the 16x2 LCD screen and the rest of the ship through the self designed PCB housing the midships multiplexer.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ae/2e/ae2e811a3c101686028c4819ff343945.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/30/74/307413ba95906f6d2e2fcc9390ee2627.jpg)
I am thinking about designing a proper mount for the 9DOF positionsensor in order to ensure any anomilies in the readout cannot be from the sensor moving all about the place.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/07/d8/07d86350dd293dc558964d18f4060410.jpg)
Currently I'm running into communication problems in the programming so I decided to let it rest hoping to find a solution later and instead pick up work on the superstructure by glueing the 2 sides and the front together.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f8/c5/f8c55a24e36b6dd25a4ff2f77accda62.jpg)
The remaining gap in the top layer will be filled up with a resin printed and fully detailed part.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/e8/23/e8234f856b4ae09b6620d5c007c09747.jpg)
This morning I found on Vesselfinder that Well Enhancer is in The Netherlands today so I grapped my camera and went out there and took quite a lot of close up photo's for as well as I could get to. The close-ups (My Nikon 200-500mm lens was worth every penny today) revealed answers to some questions while also revealing that I missed i few functions that I should make working like 2 fire monitors atop the Dive-area, a personel lift at the back of the drilling tower and a hoisting derrick also to the rear of the drilling tower.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/09/ab/09ab2328db91244e029a8984169562f7.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6f/f0/6ff0526ded89bcf00adbccf98971d356.jpg)
Greetings Josse
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Brilliant work Josse! Would it be fair to say that you could play catch up forever with a vessel that is in service? I assume that parts get fitted and removed all the time thus making life difficult if you fitted things to your model that the owners then removed later for what ever reason >>:-( %%
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Thanks Ballast!
Haha, with these kind of ships being in port means modifying things, especially on the rear deck. She moved to drydock this morning so no doubt things will be different when she gets back out though she was in dire need of a fresh coat of paint all over the ship. Of the functions added I'm quite sure some were from the time between the end of my internship at the yard and delivery by the way, while some (some fire monitors for example) appear to be added later, but would seem to be quite logical add-ons.
I do intend to fix some point in time or perhaps several. Should I be allowed on board at some point that day will most likely be the day I'll stick with, otherwise I'll most likely opt for a hybrid that I think looks great to tell the story of this ship. Maybe I could have a few features that can easily be swapped when so desired but I'm certainly not going to play catch-up.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
It's been a while, haven't got around working on the model a lot lately though I did get some important break throughs in the background. I decided that having the deck surrounding the dive area and housing some davits for lifeboats fixed to the hull creates all kinds of problems when it comes to making the davits work so I will make the deck with a bit of the walls below it removable so I can use the large open space in the removable section of the dive area for electronics and servo's without inferfering with the main computer and the battery. I have now also made some software reservations for the dive bell so should I decide to make it working as well I only need to add some working works.
Yesterday I uploaded my first video to YouTube where I want to keep track of the build process like I do here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVQar8oVR84&t=85s
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/06/7e/067eec4fe27f34757baa0ac23785b16f.jpg)
Project Flying Helicopter is GO! This helicopter is to land on the helicopter deck, though I do intent to try and make it look like a Sea King or Super Puma used by some offshore company, preferably with a bit of cockpit interior if the battery there allows it.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/1b/7a/1b7a771c7e265b79391c2753695f94db.jpg)
The size fits well for the helicopter deck, though that is yet to be build. My focus is currently on other, more important parts of the ship.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b1/a0/b1a0e61c11dc6b5ae4792e7c5a3f7b6c.jpg)
The main computer proved to big to get access to electronics once the main deck is fixed in place so I designed and printed a smaller version which I now started to rebuild to.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/1a/71/1a7135161b63e1d166ceea5061140c7a.jpg)
By now the fuse box is moved to the new main computer, I still need to design and print the electronics rack to fit in here.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ea/c2/eac20b76cfb0e3f85f248a4bd7c648b7.jpg)
Still a lot to be done! I got a new PCB which acts as a computer like power supply for the Pi and I also replaced my first self made PCB's by a new version to get rid of the short circuits in the old design.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5f/c8/5fc8e67e196660601d3ab33319c1eb6c.jpg)
Lastly I updated the list of functions and mostly the corresponding commands and decided to add 2 more PWM modules, 1 in the drilling tower and 1 in the dive area so I can keep the number of wires going through connectors as low as possible.
Greeting, Josse
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Hello all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/70/67/7067bd25e9dd6262eaf12ffe5027c6fd.jpg)
Today I managed to fix the issues I found earlier this week by cutting through a solder lane on the PCB and attaching 2 wires because I had 1 adress pin connected to GND and the other to the + but both needed to be connected to GND and turned out to need to actually be connected to GND (that was blocked by switches thinking I needed to short it in order to get the default adress. Also, the Reset pin turned out to need 3,3V in order for the chip to boot.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ee/f1/eef11478ee0281788d15adae89b623d5.jpg)
This test set-up I used to get to eleminate the problems with my self-designed PCB, though I cheated a bit by using a similar but slightly different chip (functionality is the same, pin layout is slightly diferent though the functions of the several pins are same, just in a different place) because I ran out of the correct chip. I tried removing 1 from a faulty PCB but I couldn't get it loose, that made me decide to not solder the chip directly in place anymore but rather have an IC holder in place and put the chip in it.
All in all I got a couple of great break throughs! The party isn't yet complete though, since the Pi in the transmitter only accepts connection for a couple of minutes before freezing totally and the Pi in the boat refuses to pick up the the I2C devices for some still unknown reason. I did get to test the NRF24 transceiver and that seems to work though it is difficult to know that for sure without another transceiver to communicate with.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/bd/40/bd4018043adbec4b2d1dd21350102b86.jpg)
This week I received the improved PCB's (10 in total) and quickly found out why putting text next to connectors showing the purpose of each pin is so important. Now it was easily visible that the + and - wires are at least multiple times connected the wrong way around. I already started fixing a few connectors but I still have a long way to go to check all the connectors and fix them all.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/9c/5f/9c5f81f06cd7ee6d2ddaa5ab77780034.jpg)
I put all the new PCB's where the will end up, though I still need to solder the resistors for selecting the I2C adress. Since I keep using the 2 modified somewhat older PCB's as well I'll have 2 spare PCB's now.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/a8/d7/a8d79e56b530074c9acff6e7af8625fd.jpg)
The new version PCB along the 2 now obselete PCB's which will be replaced by relais modules along with the new version PCB. This solution is both cheaper and more practical in terms of room and flexibilty of placement.
Greetings Josse
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having just caught up with this WOW you dont half some serious tyiding up on the wiring on this levithan how on earth do you know what each wire is and what exactly it does lord knows obviously you must have some logic in what you are doing but what on earth do you need all these functions for.
I do not mean to be critical in the least but you seem to have been building this for years !!!!
Personally speaking suerly wouldnt is be prudent to actually finish the superstructure and the hull of it before getting invlolved with all the electronics of her just my thoughts
Stav
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Hi Josse,
This project has really taken on a life of it own! :-))
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having just caught up with this WOW you dont half some serious tyiding up on the wiring on this levithan how on earth do you know what each wire is and what exactly it does lord knows obviously you must have some logic in what you are doing but what on earth do you need all these functions for.
I do not mean to be critical in the least but you seem to have been building this for years !!!!
Personally speaking suerly wouldnt is be prudent to actually finish the superstructure and the hull of it before getting invlolved with all the electronics of her just my thoughts
Stav
Hello Stav,
Most of the wiring is I2C and the rest is 12V power, for each I use a different wire so that makes things easier. Still, I certainly need to improve on wire coding for sure with this kind of complex build. Must of the logic is actually on the computer in an Excel sheet where all electronics and there pinouts are registered.
Saying it is a mess is currently the trueth, there's nothing critical on that.
With regards to prioritizing, I understand your reasoning but currently I'm at the point where most of the work needs to happen on the computer, both 3D design and programming. Add to that, that there is only so much that can be done to all the decks and superstructure before the need to glue it in place. When I do that I make it hard to reach the electronics. If I don't yet know for sure (not like 98% where I'm now but absolutely 100% certain) that all the electronics will be enough and will do there job I don't want to close anything yet. It would have been better to setup the electronics outside the boat, test it there until everything works properly and then install the whole system in the boat. This has been brought to my attention but only now do I understand why the pro's do it that way as well.
Why all these electronics (6 16channel PWM modules, 8 16 channel I/O controllers, those new PCB's, 4 I2C controlled motordrivers controlling 4 DC motors or 2 steppers or 1 stepper and 2 DC motors)? Well, I really much like the ship to look and work like the real ship. Simple fact is that this ship offers plenty of challenge in that regard, and making it all work gives me great pleasure, especially when the day finally arrives that it all works as intended. That day in terms of electronics might well be closer then I realize right now, since most of the pieces are already found, now they need to fall in there places in the puzzle. That is also why I decided to prioritize the electronics, because I feel like the moment that I've been waiting for for nearly 16 years now (next month it'll be 16 years ago that I started my internship at the yard where Well Enhancer was being build at the time) and I can really use the motivation that reaching that goal will give me.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
In the past couple of weeks I have been focusing on getting the Well Enhancer sailing before the end of this season but after running into a multitude of problems, mostly regarding the wiring, I decided to go back to the drawing board.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b7/e4/b7e4fd4aeec1921b9999a2a36d79f543.jpg)
I chose the literal drawing board as well, since I painted school board paint on the wooden shelf so I can easily make notes and remove them just as easily. I will paint a couple of lines to make things more organised. In the background the new main I2C cable is visible, this has 5 connectors to which a second cable is connected with 1 point where I will solder all the needed wires and there is a spare connector for just in case I find some more needed devices connected there. I will also use wire numbers to make things clearly recognisable.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/2b/11/2b1144fe5ec738e7a1dd83f217839368.jpg)
This image gives some idea of what I'm going to. At this moment I still need to remove a lot of stuff out of the boat (including the main computer, still in progress of building up the new version) and still have some stuff to buy as well. I now really want to see everything working, including all servo's and motors though for LED's I'll use some test setups because of the practical reason of having the LED's pretty much all mounted on the other side of walls or decks.
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
5 months ago I was quite busy arranging and still finishing a dormer which was placed on my house. In the meantime I have been working on a model of the work I do nowadays which will be used to sell the products I work on at expo's. Encouraged by these results I decided to pick up my own project as well.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/96/76/967698624adc77906faedc5904fbd62a.jpg)
I mounted the entire plate on drawer slides to make everything more accessible without hitting the roof with my head. Since I needed to clear everything off the plate for mounting the slides I also decided to clear things up a a bit and start working on the power supply and it's wiring. Even though this is not a small plate, it's still quite small to fit all the electronics of Well Enhancer.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/23/ba/23ba0539f0f8868462cfd39711a7b48a.jpg)
Using some Tie-wraps to tie the servo's and electronics down this looks like a decent enough testing setup, especially with the servo horns now put atop the servo's. Next up is preparing the power supply wiring and connecting all the wiring. I will also upgrade this to a fully equipped with a PC power supply powered labsupply and storage for spare wiring and spare electronics parts as well as some tools needed for working with the wiring and electronics, alongside upgrading my spraybooth with some proper ventilation and lighting.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ee/dc/eedc71ce157c89cfb25f80f898ecef50.jpg)
3 months ago I continued the work on programming and working towards a finished test setup. This feels like a process of 1 step ahead, 3 steps back. Considering that it used to feel like 1 step ahead and then 5 back I am making progress, also when considering that 1 set back doesn't take me a year to solve any more. By this time I have arrived at the point where I can actually start making all things come together quite quickly when the last pieces of the puzzle start falling in place. For that matter it would help not to create a short circuit through the address pin on a port expander, destroying a Pi, a motorhat and 3-4 PWM modules in the process. The port expander already was to be replaced by a different chip so that loss is not much a problem, the Pi and motorhat are big problems, though they will end up in the transmitter, where the motorhat will control the helm indicators.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/07/49/07495ce45bc4deaf19e79c61e28748f8.jpg)
After trying MOSFETS to control the winch motors resulting in blowing the MOSFETS up, I ordered some 40 continuous servo PCB's leaving me a couple for the life boats. When testing these on the PWM modules I got no stop and also no reverse, but using the servo tester these work fine, also for the lifeboats, which I tested seperately.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ad/5f/ad5f0b322960473e04f7d0f4a3cb5150.jpg)
Got myself a couple of new pumps which will be the cooling water pumps and for flushing the anchors. The new pumps are so much smaller then what I originally got myself which is a great benefit. These pumps don't need to pump large amounts of water so these seem fine.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/97/de/97de9fe99f7b56c03bfd7589eb2db848.jpg)
Sometimes a change of scenery helps to keep going. Therefore I decided to glue all the outer walls of the superstructure together.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d1/d5/d1d540ad5c32c485d43bd583b55da80b.jpg)
The whole ship looks a lot better too, so I'm very happy about this progress. The newly painted crew (still work in progress though) also adds to the improvements.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/11/f3/11f3e064585d74124881990bb70e622a.jpg)
Oh dear, oh dear, what did I just do?? Now being 16,5 years into this project having never ever even considered making the retractable schottel fully working (even though making the 2 in future project Seven Atlantic working was never in doubt) I decided I had to make it working, even if only to try it out before the Seven Atlantic. Considering I really want to try to have Well Enhancer sail this sailing season this was about as late as I could still afort making such a design and make it happen as well. Therefore I picked up my multitool and started making the needed cuts in the hull. Next to the hull I hold the final pocket in which the retractable schottel will be kept with all the components needed to attach 3 guiding shafts and 1 M4 thread which will move the entire assembly up and down. Before printing this final version I printed a version without any holes just to see if I can make it watertight, which proved a resounding succes.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f6/84/f684449295325572a581492e7754b35e.jpg)
Designing the schottel is coming along nicely, the schottel design itself is almost finished though I still need to come up with a proper solution for making the connection between the mounting plate that makes the schottel up and down as well as holding the needed motors and there sensors because the schottel needs to turn, have it's removable gear atop (5mm high) and I need to keep the height as low as possible. The entire schottel need to be removable so I can even replace it if need be.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/61/cc/61ccb2e3f8b886a7fb4611697cbb5a8a.jpg)
This gives some indication for how the assembly will come together, though this schottel is still printed in PLA rather then resin just to check the design for proper fitting and whether it will work the way I want it to. The final version will be shorter then what is shown here to optimize the available space and the vertical gear didn't fit as well as it needs to so driving the propshaft wasn't going to happen in this version.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/fb/23/fb23bb1c7d808cd1c212eea64eba045e.jpg)
This is the definitive design for the schottel itself, the vertical gear now fits properly and there is enough room for maintenance. The final version will be printed in resin so I only need to paint it and assemble the entire assembly to make it work as intended. Because of the choice for resin I will add a resin ring to act as a seal in the pocket housing the schottel because this ring can be made watertight with the pocket with as much material as can be reasonable for the application without needing to worry about fixing things that should be able to turn and move.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c0/9e/c09e2c7fff93a03d74229bb75a80f762.jpg)
Now back to now, I only need to fill up the gaps with greenstuff and I most likely will poor some epoxy resin in there after that to make sure all is really watertight.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/8d/24/8d24aa9ebd42a08a5a3338a77cdbc7d2.jpg)
I started sawing the hole a little small hoping to make the hole as precise as possible with regard to keeping it all watertight. In the end precise turned out a little difficult under these circumstances. The piece of bottom I cut out is laying atop the hull.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ff/d5/ffd52702c1fbf904c48049a64b45d56f.jpg)
I wasn't done just yet making holes in my hull, there were 2 more to go for the dive bells. The moonpools that will be fitted in these holes have yet been 3D designed and printed with some supports to fit the moonpool to the frame (the battery will fit directly between the 2 moonpools) and also some support for adding the winch later on.
About a month ago Well Enhancer was undergoing maintenance at Damen Shiprepair in Amsterdam. where Seven Atlantic (a future project for me, I walked on her while she was only a double bottom) was laying 2 piers further after having docked for a new paint job. It made quite a picture for me:
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/4e/fe/4efe3e0489c702f259004897eeeba7f8.jpg)
Greetings Josse
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Hi all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/66/8f/668f122deaa40179607fd22ab1d03cb1.jpg)
At the moment I've waterproofed the hull again and am now in the process of filling and sanding the new edges so the fit nicely, then have the paintwork patched up again, at least on the bottom so I don't need to turn the hull on it's side anymore. In this process I will also finish the inside of the main moonpool because there will be 1 more watertight connection so I can open and close the lower moonpool door. When this is done, I will start with making the power wiring throughout the boat, which should've been what I've started with on the test setup in the first place. Now nowing what I learned from making the setup I will now start putting everything back in the boat, power first, then communication and after that the electronics and all devices, all with proper cable management. This saves me having it to do it twice and currently I'm confident that all I have works as intended.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f6/38/f6385a641281ff2ca66de1d5a1c98ea7.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/8f/81/8f81e3532516915b87caddfc16162f57.jpg)
Perhaps the moonpools for the dive bells aren't as big as they should be but no-one will ever see them in a way to be able to spot this.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/1d/09/1d09d9611d2e34de75f33d9b807f91ca.jpg)
Here is 1 nice job finishing the inside of the moonpool with only 1 photo as reference.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/10/a1/10a158ac0eef0cdb4cdb5a001641a716.jpg)
The styrene sheet didn't fit quite as well as I hoped, apparently I hadn't taken off the material smooth and far enough. I'm going to rectify this mistake now.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/e9/10/e910d8d89bfe7678f921b2734e351191.jpg)
I didn't glue the deck in place, I'm only checking how it all fits and what needs to be done to improve the fit for when the time comes.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/32/98/329841b36f68dd054c79a4aeb14a61fb.jpg)
Nice overview, I'll need to check some measurements because I recall being able to walk with 2 people side by side through the corridor where the crewmember stands, but as the lines indicate, that will not fit here.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/15/16/1516edfb8821df53678f648934901287.jpg)
Also added some supports to the ROV hangar so it isn't hanging off of the moonpool anymore.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/50/8b/508b89e9cce3122f8c387ab86876231c.jpg)
Printed some nice supports to mount to the frames for holding the electronics.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/24/c7/24c7f44181810dc775cdf27accaa58f8.jpg)
I prepared the fuses for both the 3,3V and 5V regulators.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/60/1e/601e611eb92af05c391ae71f7a48fde4.jpg)
Printed a new foundation for the 8-way relay module with room for a 3,3V regulator, a 5V regulator and a MCP23017 port expander.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d4/5a/d45a0d845390904321ca04fe71652394.jpg)
Still need to modify the lower end of the new moonpools so the battery can sit flush on the bottom again, or make a support so the battery will no longer rest on the moonpools.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
Yesterday I made a big step in the direction of being able to sail the boat, which I hope to achieve on juli 13th when my new club has a model sailing competition. The next step will be to transfer to inputting the commands and having them end up controlling the steppers and main engines.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClzWigQk960
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/4e/bd/4ebdd8e04c4a0bff5b1c4c01b115c500.jpg)
Someone in my new club somewhat jokingly suggested that some water detection would be a good idea, so I got going on a very simple version of detecting water (simple cutting a wire in 2, glue both ends to the bottom at a small separation) and then I made these drawings indicating where the water is actually detected. This is not really a luxury on this model since the bottom will most likely be completely or almost completely covered by electronics making it very hard to actually find leak water. Now I need to remember when adding all the electronics to also leave room for a hose so I can also get the water out as well.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/85/d9/85d9a996e0bb9b0886d0fb318b0aa2b1.jpg)
Put the LED's in firmly and made sure they don't leak any light.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/a0/5f/a05f8475d6ae85db31a26fd86ed53e51.jpg)
Connected all the - wires, at this point thinking I would use wires rather then a PCB to connect the LED's. Added downside of this approach, and benefit for a PCB is not needing more wiring but bringing it all together in 1 central place and handling the connections there.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/a3/31/a331f7cdb3e7270e201fc1d5652873f2.jpg)
I started working on the detection grid, the first 2 frames are wired now. I put the first panel at a possible location to how things will work out, though the PCB still needs to be added here.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/49/10/4910e133679344f25a2fc1de1ee5804b.jpg)
Indicating a leak in frame 28, with bear eyes the number is perfectly readable, it's the lack of contrast in the camera that is not showing it in the image. The LED's have already got a resistor fitted for powering straight out of the 12V battery.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/87/97/8797ea321b3d7ff0359d0e53200ac102.jpg)
The PCB has now arrived, I hope I chose the right diodes, these appear to have a fairly high resistance, but then it needs to deliver a maximum of 3,3V to an input pin on an IO multiplexer.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/7f/b1/7fb1e59dfcd0e7dd1f794b9c802c479d.jpg)
A PCB cannot get any simpler than this. This is a practical solution for powering all devices connected to an I2C multiplexer, which is why I designed this PCB.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
In the past couple of weeks I made great progress in getting Well Enhancer ready to sail!! First of the big steps is questioning the idea of using stepper motors along the magnetic angle sensors (AS5600) to turn the azimuths. This because a reduction motor with the same sensor can do the exact same thing. This proofed a great step forwards for rotating the cranes but because I had always planned to sent the actual angle for the azimuth from the transmitter using a 360 degree rotatable joystick. While giving this more thought I realised that dropping the fancy joysticks which also gave my headaches in the design stage in favour of standard joysticks of which I already have 15 in the main section of the transmitter, I could then drop the motorhats which are still proving somewhat more difficult to program, and use PWM modules instead, then having a speed control based steering rather then an angle based control. This means that the rudder angle indicators are now back since I otherwise don't have much to see in which direction my azimuths are facing and now I got plenty of motorhats and stepper motors to make them work, which was 1 reason to drop the at first.
Why is the above such a step towards sailing? That is because I already have a working program controlling all the PWM functions that where already planned, so adding 2 more for the additional functions is a matter of copy/ paste and then modifying a couple of parameters, which has already been done. At this point in time, all I need to do is program the incoming commands from the transceiver into the main program, then make sure the hull is watertight and then program the transmitter. This has now also become more easy since I don't need to program the AS5600 magnetic angle sensors anymore and have now basically 3 different electronics that I need to work with. The new front section of the transmitter is being printed right now so starting this weekend I can continue the work on the transmitter as well.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5d/46/5d46d36d24f68fd36b23fc0bae4f8a53.jpg)
I replaced the 6V bow thruster motors bij 12V motors with new pedals, that turned out to be a great choice because while I was adding a final layer of epoxy and glass fibre some epoxy ended up in the forward bow thruster and there it glued the motor permanently in place, making it impossible to replace only the motor. I had decided to reuse 1 6V motor to power the new retractable azimuth but this motor only runs occasionally when at full power, like at most half of the time so a replacement motor is on it's way.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/12/71/1271dad0528de85c84d1357fe7ae5f11.jpg)
Thinking 1 step ahead (that would be finishing the interior of the hull and placing the deck) I got myself a 5m LED-strip providing real proper light inside the hull. The idea is to have some more or less intelligent switch (2 wires placed at a small distance connecting with a piece of coper tape underneath the deck works just fine too) so the lights will only come on where the deck is actually open, not where it is closed.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6d/2f/6d2fdbf660cf592d8fc9164c6d24e860.jpg)
I made sure the base for the deck is perfectly flush, which it now is.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6c/a4/6ca457c512fe256c6bf02021969fbd66.jpg)
When I'm far enough, now mostly with the transmitter, I'll need the transceiver to start receiving commands, so I connected it again using a new wire just to be sure and since some wires had broken. I also replaced the several Dupont connectors by 1 2x20 connector to remove any doubt about how to connect should a connector come loose.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ac/70/ac7032d9b69a579bc93fea8b0045322f.jpg)
After some debate surrounding the mistake in the shape of the moonpool and thus the lack of room for the lower moonpool door I now decided that I would replace precisely what I need to and nothing more. Thus removing 1 sidewall and replacing it by this new wall, shown here with a test version of the door dry fitted in place. The shaft holding the door in place on this side of the door will not protrude into the original front wall of the moonpool, thus keeping the amount of holes in the hull to a minimum and making sure that the risk of leaks is kept to a minimum as a consequence.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/08/ea/08ea2a7d3afde370fb062a86ba9f5a77.jpg)
On this side the tube extends to make sure that when I glue it in place using epoxy, the epoxy can't finds it's way into the tube thus making it useless.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c8/95/c895e564dba9e31fdbadb6bba474e838.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/a1/d9/a1d9ff163dc17af8686d1cb4ea952234.jpg)
I need to align the shaft a little better, but nothing that a file can't solve.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/49/6c/496c79351071ad6c3f14c0994f77b5c8.jpg)
Now that I've started working with the transceivers I also glanced at making the lifeboats work. Here I just received the 4 channel receiver which I will use to control the lifeboat, 5 more are on there way. Just underneath the lifeboat is it's main engine and I'm still looking for lighter and smaller servo's.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/d9/a7/d9a7b7931491064b8f5ff471673ca05f.jpg)
The retractable azimuth is ready to be build into the boat! I tested the driveshaft using my power screwdriver and it runs quite smooth and quite. Now I need to modify the design of the engine plate and put it all together.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/9b/dd/9bdd5621c4beea227c8fd7ee2cceed02.jpg)
I put the test engine plate in place to see how things will come together and what room that will give me. The through hull was originally precisely the correct size but after somewhat forcing it in place it apparently got just that tiny bit smaller making a perfect fit a barely fit. Nothing a bit of sandpaper can't solve though.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/86/09/860919e5b361c40e86449c3dfc8cf6e6.jpg)
The last of the electronics has now been connected.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/65/1b/651b24685cdc4da368fe639efb5b6275.jpg)
Now the test setup is finished it's time to put everything back in the boat. This could only be done in 1 go since far too many components where connected to each other like a spider web. Next time I'll make connectors on the I2C wiring and put a connector for the 12V right beside it for ease of maintenance and putting everything in the boat. Now I'm trying to fix as much as possible what I should've done in the first place.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/56/eb/56eb0f7c064867e841e72bb055a67e30.jpg)
It seemed to be a good idea to start with finishing the central computer/ power supply. Recently I got myself some new USB ports intended for the top of the central computer but this proved to completely fill the computer with USB cable and not to be able to make the bend needed to close the computer. Therefore I opted to make the USB ports on the Pi accessible at all times (luckily the Pi sits just to port besides the battery) and also bring a short HDMI cable there for attaching the touchscreen for troubleshooting.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/14/76/147688303ef434547639e63a642839af.jpg)
Another lesson learned: because I started without a really clear vision of the end result it's now hardly possible to arrange the central computer nice and tidy, thus, this'll have to do. I can make sense of this when I need to thanks to some proper documentation on my computer. Currently the usefulness of the relais for powering the secondary functions is being questioned, mostly because of a concern of the program crashing when an I2C device is not connected (not sure if this is true or not) and also because I have intended to not have any secondary function working, so also no cooling water and sound. The power consumption at the moment with the Pi powered from the battery comes out at 12,5V @ 600-700mA so 1 12V 12A battery will run me for most of the day if I add 1A atop the 700mA for the motors.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ac/ce/acce7ab725e3e82efd100bf56c3f8e4e.jpg)
After that I started working my way aft from the central computer, organising the wiring and working towards a general idea on which components need to go where. I also made sure the all connectors can actually fully disconnect an entire section of components, thereby also reducing the amount of wiring to organise.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/f4/12/f4129e1e5fd4c55a1c5cf744147b8374.jpg)
Then I continued in the stern, focusing on the propulsion. A couple of components, mostly the 2 PWM modules, have been placed permanently now.
All in all there still is quite a lot of work to be done but I've got quite far over the last week alone. It does help a lot to get some idea of which component should come where, I should've taken that more into account when I was working on the test setup. I have also learned a lot more in the process as well and yet the time to have her sail the lakes is closing in fast!!!
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c9/b9/c9b9dc89188b7622d0ac1a58cd888432.jpg)
Since I start to get really close to setting sail now it's time to fix the propulsion in place for as far as I haven't already. Here 1 attempt for a fitting mount for the retractable azimuth. By now I have a properly fitting mount where the magnet glued to the gearwheel is barely touching the chip. Now I need to check if the chip is registering properly, proving proper alignment.(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/14/2b/142b0cc304d01e1c1afeb6b87f594843.jpg)
I made the stern steering engines the same way though with the extra needed room for the thicker and also bigger gears
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ad/d5/add54049f29c81c0efc68c48b41bfc6a.jpg)
Setting sail with a boat which is not watertight sounds like asking for trouble so I need to make the moonpool watertight as soon as possible. I forgot to think ahead and glued the garage and it's connecting piece in place instead of first placing the tubes for waterproofing the drive shafts for the doors first when I had the room. Here I use the remaining piece of 2x3mm tube and a hammer to gently but firmly get the first tube in place. Then I put a couple drops of glue around it to fix it in place once and for all, but the glue found it's way underneath the garage to the other tube where it stopped me from mirroring the steps I had just made. I just managed to avoid having the tube glued in the wrong place after which I decided the garage had to come out. I managed to do just that with some pain and broken PLA, but by now all is ready for placing the doors and lower moonpool door.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b1/2a/b12afca07d4b29d1645d8be8b74b9ee4.jpg)
If you look closely you can see the remainder of the infill PLA which has broken away from the garage proving the holding power of the glue. Both tubes are now place correctly.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5f/1a/5f1ae62e08c42ec4021ea2d238c9de96.jpg)
Since I managed to remove the garage I used the opportunity to mount the servo's, which are connected through a Y-cable so the doors will open simultaneously. I made myself some nice servo mounts and then complemented those with a version for floor mounting.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/b4/fb/b4fbab37fc17b2856408f2dc2e9c7276.jpg)
Added the LED strip for lighting inside the hull for once the deck is in place. I continued organising the wiring which starts to come along nicely.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/5b/e5/5be5a886ae55b3bfdd57980d8c02bf18.jpg)
Placing the LED strip around the deck edge seems to provide plenty of light. Concerning the power of the LED strip: the somewhat lighter flooring in the background is fully lit by daylight.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/8d/12/8d124b0af0344e197a247bbd7b70d0b5.jpg)
I turned my attention to the bow. Some electronics have placed permanently and the wiring has been sorted out.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/87/f1/87f1da5b188a2e7e28fbb073b519ed22.jpg)
The time had come to put the connectors in place in such a way that the electronics can be connected even with the deck in place, starting with the connector for the drilling tower. Since the drilling tower holds 5 working winches and a crane it feels appropriate to have a firm foundation preventing the drilling tower from tipping over. Should water leak past the side of the tower, the connector is protected against water getting in by means of an edge around it and a drainage hole in the bottom of the holder.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/1c/e9/1ce9a2219f338fb97cbdf4ac2835f516.jpg)
De connector can now be used, even with the deck in place, though it will take quite some time before the deck will be glued in place for good. There is still too much to be done inside the hull.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/87/af/87afbe0069cbcbb3fd1bd1465e744174.jpg)
Finisht the construction for the lower moonpool door and both garage doors. I still need to work out how I will control the top moonpool door, I currently have a servo connected reserved for this, though that might just as well be switched with a reduction motor with threaded rod.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/01/08/0108829eec2907edec9e0efe20236d85.jpg)
The transceiver has now been placed permanently. There will be a second transceiver for controlling the lifeboats in the rear of the main superstructure in between all the fire mains and electrical connections to the superstructure.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/23/6a/236a214311c09682b21a60650f9b5028.jpg)
Even the dive area will be quite full of electronics, though I do need to keep room in the middle since I need to be able to reach the power switch and rotary encoder for starting up the Pi. Since the program will run into errors if not all I2C devices are connected the dive area with it's electronics need to be in place for the Pi to be able to start and run the program, a hatch will provide access with the dive area in place.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
The last few weeks work has continued quite quickly, I got myself a 6 channel radio so I could get Well Enhancer sailing even quicker without feeling any need to rush finishing my transmitter. The only reason the boat is not ready to sail yet is because the steering motors (N20 reduction motors) turned out not to be able to turn the azimuths.
After having ordered some more powerful motors I then decided to add the deck around the dive area. From there things made a turn south, or perhaps better north. I came to the conclusion that there are too many minor issues with the current hull to continue with this hull and I've now decided I will replace the hull with a new GRP hull. I'll first state what issues made me make this change and then how I will go about this.
Why?In short there is a long list of minor items that in and on itself are not worthy of such a big change, but combined together it does add up.-The bulwark on the bow is far to low and there are various alignment issues with the rear bulwarks, mostly related to the deck-The base for the rear deck is not quite flat and has me doubting whether the stern is straight or not, this issue comes back in the how section.-Bilges keels are quite flimsy -The wiring is in quite a bad place, it would best be placed as close to the hull as possible, making room in front of, but still somewhat under the deck, for the electronics providing tons more room for the electronics and putting the wiring away nice and tidy.-The latest moonpools for the dive bells have been placed on the wrong side of the frame I glued them onto, taking away awfully much of the already quite limited room for the electronics.-The propulsion now takes up quite a lot of room, which could be much less if done properly.-The power supply unit is overcrowded due to poor design and the choice to solder all wiring together. It makes it quite hard to find any problems, let alone fixing them,-The water inlets for the pumps now collect too much air and the pumps can't suck it out. -This project is meant to be as much a prototype for future projects as it is a project all on it's own. I already know I'm going to lay out the wiring for both power supply and communication rather differently (also benefitting the GRP hulls I already wanted to make). The only way I can achieve this is by making a GRP hull for this model first.
How am I going to do it?-For the moment I'll build the new steering motors into the current hull so I can sail with that hull until the time comes to move the electronics to the new hull.-Today I got myself a sheet of wood which I will use with some foam to make the new plug, I don't use the current hull because it's more work and even more expensive to transform the current hull into a proper plug. Besides the bulwark issues I'd also need to close all the holes for portholes and propulsion. And then there is the doubt about whether or not the stern is actually really straight or not which will continue to be a doubt in the GRP hull if I don't make a new plug for the mold.-The mold will be made in 4 sections and I will use what would be the keel to separate the port and starboard parts of the mold, taking away the need for a very close fit around the keel and moving the separator after making the first 2 parts with all risks involved there. At half the length of the ship I will also put in a sheet of wood to separate the forward and stern mold sections, this will help with removing the mold from the plug and the hull from the mold, and will also aid in being able to store the mold should I need it again in the future.-While laying the glass for the hull, I will put some PVC wiring tubes in, fixed in place with an extra layer of fibreglass to both make the wiring as much out of the way as possible while also using the tubes to somewhat strengthen the hull.-I will make a new power supply unit with terminal blocks for connecting the wires, making the wiring more tidy and also more maintainable. The new unit will also be higher because of the issues with the programming when an I2C device is not connected, making the controls more reachable and providing more room where it matters the most.-The I2C wiring and the power wires will be replaced, making some changes in the connections to make it all more tidy and also more compact.-The stern azimuths and the bow thrusters will be replaced by own designs based on the retractable azimuth design. This proves to be cheaper but also allows the use of brass propellers rather then scoops and plastic propellers.
Greetings Josse
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Hello all,
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/ba/d6/bad6b45c655bca3fe4d12991a2a2b849.jpg)
THE SHIP SAILS!!!! I couldn't get both azimuths to turn, for the starboard azimuth the gears got trapped in the new steering engine foundation. This proved to be tough, also because I have no way of seeing what position the azimuths are actually in. The issue has now been resolved by printing a new, but lower gearwheel.
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/6a/d2/6ad2357f886c1d9d41035e017fb76a50.jpg)
(https://modelbrouwers.nl/media/cache/c1/a0/c1a03cb4485fad2b37ae6faf59a15c63.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oofpNZ4zYHc
The sea trial!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwyrILezzrA
The modified controls and steering mechanism.
Greetings Josse